Water Pump Replacement

DeLorean Details and Photos


Created: 4/1/00 


Author/source: Dave Swingle

These are additional Details on Waterpump change instructions. Be sure to read those first.


This is a photo essay based on my water pump replacement. Yours may vary. I am assuming no responsibility that any of this information may apply to you, or if you skin your knuckles. . 

Lots of graphics here, I shrunk and set them to low resolution, but it may still take a while to load. 


The first 4 shots are "memory joggers" as to what is should all look like, specifically the hose and wiring routing. I'd also suggest you make a few drawings. 

Note the dirt on the fuel  metering flap - I've seen this on every DeLorean Engine I've ever looked at. Apparently the air cleaner doesn't fit all that well. 

These are the left and right valve covers. Again, just to show how it all goes back together. When projects like this span a couple of weeks, these photos come in handy.


The biggest issue with disassembly is probably making note of the wiring and hoses, and NOT dropping any of the little copper O-rings when you take off the fuel injection lines. I found it best to remove the lines from the fuel distributor AND to remove the injectors from the engine. A good chance to do some detailing and clean things up. Careful with the injectors, they are very susceptible to dirt. 

These two pictures show what you will likely find once you take the manifold off. Things to notice:

---Boy, NOW the distributor is easy to get to (hint, if you haven't tuned it up in a while, this is a great time to do so). Same for the clutch slave cylinder. It doesn't show up well in this photo since I painted it black. 

---I'd also replace all three of those pesky 4 mm vacuum hoses. Note that 4mm Dayco hoses fit tighter than 4 mm no-name hoses. Shop around and get the good stuff. It's hot in here, and a pain if you ever have to get in there again. 

---Hey - the valley is FULL of dirt and old antifreeze. The thing that looks like some sort of critter is actually a vegitation.  BE SURE to clean that dirt out. A shop vac and a long screwdriver come in really handy. Some of the recesses in the valley are 2 inches deep, and have been known to rot through allowing all this dirt you see here to get inside the engine. This might be worth taking it apart just for this preventative maintenance.. 

---Note where some prior "mechanic" had double-clamped the hoses. Seems to me that if I was going to all the trouble I'd at least have replaced the hoses. This was the REAL problem with mine, the pump was probably OK but I replaced it anyway since it was the original 18-year-old pump. 

 

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Here are a couple of photos, NOT from my engine, that shows more detail on the dirt problem. On this car (owned my Michael Babb of the DML) the engine case actually rotted through, and some prior mechanic had filled the holes with epoxy. When the epoxy fell out, the dirt went in and ate the main crankshaft bearings. Expen$ive. 

 

Read the entire saga in the archive, starts as eGroups message 7243.

 

 

The arrows above point at the location of the deepest holes.

 

        

 

More detail on the holes. Left photo shows the corrosion and attempted repair, right photo is the new, clean block. 

 

 

Go to Part 2

 



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