From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 7:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 127

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Water Temp. & Fans
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Coolant leak.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

3. Re: Frame epoxy
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

4. RE: Coolant leak.
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

5. Re: Water Temp. & Fans
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: Frame epoxy
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

7. Re: Thermo Time Switch
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: Fuel Tank Closing Plate
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

9. Re: acceleration enrichment circuit
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: acceleration enrichment circuit
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Yokohama Tires (was dealers)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

12. John DeLorean in recent Car and Driver
From: DeLorean1975_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Plumbing on fuel system
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com

14. BAE single turbo need help
From: "Michael DeLuca" <mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com>

15. Aftermarket wheels
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>

16. Looking for a DeLorean to be restored for museum use
From: Mailathome_at_dml_hetnet.nl

17. Re: Water Temp. & Fans
From: "AGUSTIN TINOCO" <atdmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: Water Temp. & Fans
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

19. Re: Frame epoxy
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

20. Re: Frame epoxy
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

21. DMC Logo Rip-Off!
From: maurit_at_dml_ibm.net

22. Nose bra on ebay
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

23. Rain causes short cirquit in windscreen wipers
From: sprins_at_dml_businessnet.net

24. Ha! It can be done!...
From: amazinrick_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: Looking for a DeLorean to be restored for museum use
From: Larry Oden <lkoden_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 23:32:42 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Water Temp. & Fans

The book shows the fans to activate at 206 degrees F and deactivate at 195 
degrees F. Some may vary as the readings on cars are different.
My $0.02c's worth
John 



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:50:30 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant leak.

The weep hole is located at the bottom of the pulley shaft behind the
pulley. If the pump is relatively new it should not be leaking. If the leak
is coming from behind the pump you will have to replace both rear hoses.
This is the reason that we suggest that the rear hoses be changed at the
same time as the water pump.

As you mentioned, a cooling system pressure test will reveal the exact
source of the leak.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Rooney <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 7:25 AM
Subject: [DML] Coolant leak.


> While in the garage today, I noticed a small puddle of antifreeze on
> the ground below the engine. Going up the engine block I discovered
> that it's leaking out from behind the water pump. With a flash light
> I was able to see a tiny pool of orange coolant below/behind the
> water outlet hose on the right side. The water pump is a brand new
> genuine DeLorean part, however all of the hoses that I can see behind
> the pump look to all be original and feel soft. Going back thru the
> archives I found a posting to perform a pressure test to check where
> the leak is comming from. But anyone tell me where I would find
> the "weep hole" on the water pump to see if it's the culprit?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:59:41 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Frame epoxy

No, the entire production run of frames were all coated with the same
process and materials.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: <intelisens_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 10:53 PM
Subject: [DML] Frame epoxy


> I understand that there was a new process used on the 1983 Deloreon
> frames that prevented corrosion. I heard that the epoxy used on the
> 1981-82 models had a tendency to crack resulting in water becoming
> trapped beneath the epoxy layers leading to corrosion of the frame. I
> heard the coating process was changed for the 1983 models. Is this
> true? Thank you
>
> Daniel Cole





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 23:46:30 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Coolant leak.

The weep hole of the water pump is on the bottom of the shaft, directly
behind the pulley.  I needed a small mirror to locate mine.

AFAIK, there should only be fluid seeping from the weep hole if the water
pump shaft seal has failed, as was the case with mine.  My coolant was
leaking down low to where the timing marks are, not anywhere up top.  You
might just have a badly-clamped hose, although getting to it to fix it could
be quite a bit of effort.  Good luck,


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Rooney [mailto:dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 6:26 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Coolant leak.
>
>
> While in the garage today, I noticed a small puddle of antifreeze on
> the ground below the engine. Going up the engine block I discovered
> that it's leaking out from behind the water pump. With a flash light
> I was able to see a tiny pool of orange coolant below/behind the
> water outlet hose on the right side. The water pump is a brand new
> genuine DeLorean part, however all of the hoses that I can see behind
> the pump look to all be original and feel soft. Going back thru the
> archives I found a posting to perform a pressure test to check where
> the leak is comming from. But anyone tell me where I would find
> the "weep hole" on the water pump to see if it's the culprit?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
>
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:50:46 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Water Temp. & Fans

The fans should turn on at approximately 207 degrees F. Your problem may be
caused by trapped air in the coolant lines. You will need to air bleed your
cooling system or better yet you may want to install an Overheat Protector.
You should also check to be sure that your car is not equipped with the
factory installed Fan Fail Module or 35 amp circuit breaker. Both of these
items have an extremely high failure rate.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: J Rowe <rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net>
To: DeLorean News <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 11:37 AM
Subject: [DML] Water Temp. & Fans


>         At what temperature should the fans come on at? I don't think that
mine has
> ever come on since I've owned the car but I don't drive it much and have
never had
> and overheating problems.......until yesterday. I got it out and drove it
around town
> a little when the temperature started to get a little higher than usual so
I brought it
> back home and  when I got out I had a lot of coolant pouring out of my
radiator.
> I know that my fans weren't on when I got out and the temperature was
working on
> getting about 220 degrees. I should probably invest in a fanzilla
shouldn't I. Is there
> and common ailments for the fans that I should check out while I'm messing
with the
> radiator? Hopefully my radiator can be fixed and I won't have to buy a new
one. I'll see.
>
>                                                 Thanks in
advance..................Jason #5903






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 05:10:13 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Frame epoxy

I've heard that many of the first cars off the assembly line had too 
thick a coating of epoxy on them which resulted in cracking. Once DMC 
realized what was happening, a thinner coat was applied to all 
chassis after that. I don't know of a VIN cut off number where the 
change was put into effect, but I'm pretty sure it happened sometime 
in mid '81. While there are suttle variations for certain cosmetic 
components and parts, there really isn't a huge differance between 
all year models. Judging  by the progress & habits of the company, 
the DMC-12 probably wouldn't have had a noticible makeover untill 
1986.

-Robert
vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, intelisens_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I understand that there was a new process used on the 1983 Deloreon 
> frames that prevented corrosion. I heard that the epoxy used on the 
> 1981-82 models had a tendency to crack resulting in water becoming 
> trapped beneath the epoxy layers leading to corrosion of the frame. 
I 
> heard the coating process was changed for the 1983 models. Is this 
> true? Thank you
> 
> Daniel Cole




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:49:47 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Thermo Time Switch

I have never heard of a time-temperature switch being damaged due to
excessive heat. However based on your test results it appears that your
switch may be defective. This part is not very expensive; why not replace it
and keep it as a spare if its replacement does not correct the problem.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Rooney <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 10:01 PM
Subject: [DML] Thermo Time Switch


> Can extreme heat damage a new thermo time switch? Ever since my car
> blew it's otterstat and overheated, I've had starting problems which
> have gotten progressivly worse. When the engine is cold to mild, it
> will not turn over with out swapping plugs to fire the cold start
> valve. And from here it can still take 1-2 additional cranks to get
> it going. But, if I insert a jumper wire to ground the thermo time
> wire, or if I swap the plugs BEFORE I crank the engine, the engine
> fires up in 1-2 seconds. About 10-15 seconds after the motor then
> starts to sputter untill it warms up, but I believe that this may be
> caused by a clogged Control Pressure Regulator. Although it didn't
> exceed it, the motor did reach 260 degrees when it overheated.
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585






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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:05:27 -0400
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Closing Plate

The less amount of gas in the tank the better. Usually the tank itself is wedged tight in the frame and you don't need to worry about it dropping out on you. Check the bolt holes on the plate and frame for rust and repaint as needed. This is where the A/C drain water goes.

What I did to get my tank out was use a piece of piano wire and cut through the foam cushions holding the tank in place. DO NOT try to use a pry bar or screwdriver on the tank, it is plastic and you may poke a hole in it. Make sure you have disconnected all the hoses and wires on the
top side first. The rear of the tank comes down first, the front sits on the crossmember, slide the tank to the rear and the front will drop down.When you have the tank out you may want to replace the two rubber fuel line hoses to the fuel pump at this time.

Getting the tank out is no easy task. If you start getting frustrated, walk away and come back later. Good luck.

Dave Sontos
VIN 02573

Sean Howley wrote:

> I am needing to remove the fuel tank closing plate (the triangular plate bolted to the frame under the fuel tank).  Is there anything I need to do before I unbolt it?  Additional support, etc.  Also, is there a special method to removing it or is it as straight forward as it looks?




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 01:06:04 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: acceleration enrichment circuit

The fuel enrichment circuit is switched at the RPM relay, jump the brown to
yellow / red wires to force this circuit to operate.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 10:27 PM
Subject: [DML] acceleration enrichment circuit


> Hello List,
>     today was quite an embarassing day.  I backed the DeLorean out to
clean
> the garage and got it out into the road and it quit.  I tried everything
to
> get it started, jumped the pump, jumped the cold start valve, etc.  I
finally
> had to ask our new neighbors to help me push it into the garage.  luckily
I
> received NO cocaine or "i knew those were junk" coments.
>     The car would start up and then shake and shut off very quickly.  I
> noticed that the acceleration enrichment circuit wasnt buzzing when I
started
> the car anymore.  I cleaned the contacts and checked the wiring and it was
> fine. Does this unit fail very often?  how can I test it to see if it
still
> works?  is there a way to jump it?  every relay in my car is removed
except
> the main fuel and start inhibit relay while it is having the interior
> restored.  I dont beleive it is relayed, or am i wrong?  any info would be
> greatly appreciated.
>     I had the same problem with my acceleration enrichment circuit last
month
> but it turned out to be a torn wire.  the car behaved just like it does
now.
> oh, and the #1 and number #7 fuses are fine.  any help would be GREATLY
> appreciated/
>
> #2496-100% interior restoration
>
> Thanks in advance
> Dave





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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 23:59:47 EDT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: acceleration enrichment circuit

I'm not sure but based on your description of what you have done. I would 
check the mounting bases for all fuses and relays to be sure that when you 
pushed them back in you didn't inadvertently push the wire out the back of 
the socket. Happened to me and it is caused by the locking tab on the socket 
connectors being week. Just a thought?
Ralph
vin1606



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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 01:23:44 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Yokohama Tires (was dealers)

We consider the ASV far superior to any other tire and actually don't
recommend any other brand. Mark is 100% correct about matching all four
tires for maximum performance.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Cc: <dmc1219_at_dml_one.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Yokohama Tires (was dealers)


> The Yokohama AVS Intermediate is the one you want. That model has both the
> 195/60-14 and the 235/60-15 needed for the DeLorean.
>
> Very few tires from any manufacturer have both the front and rear DeLorean
> sizes available. You want to stay with a matched set of 4 for best
> handling. Having different levels of grip on the front and back can cause
> problems when driving in bad weather, or at the limit on dry pavement. If
> you don't drive near the limit, or in bad weather, then it won't matter
much.
>
> I can't really comment on the 2nd best, as I haven't tested anything other
> than the Yokohama on my DeLorean. Other tires that I really like aren't
> available in the sizes needed.
>
> Mark N
> VIN 6820
>
>
> At 04:09 PM 7/9/00 -0400, you wrote:
> >I have suddenly entered the market for new rear tires (tread separation
> >on one).
> >
> >Which variety of Yokohama ?  What's second best?
> >
> >Richard






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Message: 12
Date: Mon Jul 10 01:44:39 2000
From: DeLorean1975_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: John DeLorean in recent Car and Driver

Hello

John just can't stay out of print.

I was reading my August 2000 edition of Car and Driver and I came across a little article in the section called  "The Information: Dirt Road." The article is called "As good as gold." It says that John's hearings are about to end and that creditors estimate he will pay off 99% of the $85 million he owes. It says he was evicted from his 434-acre Mansion in New Jersey, and now he is living in a hotel.

-John Feldman



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:07:49 EDT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Plumbing on fuel system

What kind of fittings and fuel lines are used? What size are the steel fuel 
lines?  5/16? They measure .317. Is that metric? 37 or 45 Degree? Or is it 
something SPECIAL?
Thanks,
Ralph
VIN1606



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:18:25 -0000
From: "Michael DeLuca" <mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com>
Subject: BAE single turbo need help

I had my single BAE turbo rebuilt recently and it looks like I have a 
problem.
It seams to blow smoke after the turbo has kicked in.
My neighbor notices that the problem only seams to happen on 
deceleration and thinks I'm not blowing oil out but it is getting 
sucked in do the vacuum caused by deceleration,
that's the only time the problem seams to happen.
Here are my questions
1. Any other BAE single turbo people on the list?
2. Have you ever had it rebuilt?
3. Have you had any problems with your turbo?
4. Any idea or suggestions? 
5. Does any one have a good source for turbo expertise? 





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:22:21 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Aftermarket wheels

	I just received my new wheels from Delorean Motor Center in California.
They are just like those on Marty Maier's car which can be viewed at
http://www.dmcnews.com/clephoto/cleveland2000_2.html. 
When I saw these rims on Marty's car at the show, I instantly fell in love
with them, however the company that made them (konig) has discontinued this
style.  Luckily I was able to purchase the last set that Don had.  I can
hardly wait to put these on my daily driver D' which should be returning
home shortly, as DMC Joe is putting the finishing touches on it right now.
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808



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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:17:06 -0000
From: Mailathome_at_dml_hetnet.nl
Subject: Looking for a DeLorean to be restored for museum use

MODERATOR'S NOTE: Normally I don't post messages looking for "cheap" DeLoreans
but this request seems a little different than most.


Im searching for a cheap Delorean for a Museum

Please offer any Delorean!!!!

The Delorean will be restored in to Condition
and your Name will be placed there too.
Mailathome_at_dml_hetnet.nl




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:50:16 PDT
From: "AGUSTIN TINOCO" <atdmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Water Temp. & Fans

EDITOR's NOTE: I have trimmed down the amount of quoted material. When
submitting postings, please prudently trim quoted material to reduce
unneeded bulk.


what is the procedure to bleed the air out of the coolant lines, any body 
can help me?


>From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] Water Temp. & Fans
>Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:50:46 -0400
>
>The fans should turn on at approximately 207 degrees F. Your problem may be
>caused by trapped air in the coolant lines. You will need to air bleed your
>cooling system or better yet you may want to install an Overheat Protector.
>You should also check to be sure that your car is not equipped with the
>factory installed Fan Fail Module or 35 amp circuit breaker. Both of these
>items have an extremely high failure rate.
>
>"We're here to help you"
>
>DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
>Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>.
>



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 17:30:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Water Temp. & Fans

Cooling system bleeding procedures are given at 
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm

Dave Swingle




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 17:27:34 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Frame epoxy

My suspicion is that you are referring to the later cars that were 
undercoated al la "Ziebart" after they sat in storage at the prep 
centers for a while. I've seen this on many 1982-production cars. It 
is a black wax substance sprayed over the normal grey epoxy. In the 
beginning it probably did some good as far as retarting moisture, but 
now is it brittle and flaking off too. At this point in time it is 
probably not doing any good, and may be causing some moisture-
retention problems that the epoxy does.

IMHO it makes working on the bottom of the car a pain in the neck. 
Some of the application was done non-to-carefully and really makes a 
mess when you go to take things apart such as fuel filters and 
cooling piping. 

Dave Swingle
5429

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, intelisens_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > I understand that there was a new process used on the 1983 
Deloreon 
> > frames that prevented corrosion. I heard that the epoxy used on 
the 





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:04:34 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Frame epoxy

DMC Joe wrote:

> No, the entire production run of frames were all coated with the same
> process and materials.

Actually, I think there is more to the story than this.  DMC Joe is right
about all the cars having epoxy coating applied with the same process
originally.  However, some of the 1983 DeLoreans also had ordinary
undercoating applied over the epoxy.  This was done because they sat for a
long time (I believe near the ocean).  After weeks or months there was
concern that they might develop some rust or corrosion, so the undercoating
was applied to all the cars just in case.

Having judged the undercarriage at Millennium: The DeLorean Motor Company
Concours in Saint Louis, I got a good look at both undercarriage versions.
On cars that have the ordinary undercoating, it was sprayed everywhere: on
horns, shock absorbers, oil filters, wires, everything.  Compared to the
smooth, clean look of the epoxy the ordinary undercoating looks ugly.

However it did work, at least on some cars.  My personal observation was
that a car with both types of undercoating was slightly better preserved
than a car with only the epoxy undercoating.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:31:22 -0000
From: maurit_at_dml_ibm.net
Subject: DMC Logo Rip-Off!

I was at the airport today and came across an interesting 
corporate logo.  Some of you may recognize it.  Here is a link to 
their homepage:

http://www.delawarenorth.com/

Who owns the rights if any to the logo? James,Stephen any ideas if 
infringement can be claimed?

Ital Design and John Z had a sharp and distinctive look with the
logo, its a shame to see it copied this way.

Mauri T.
Austin, TX
#3153




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:51:24 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Nose bra on ebay

Hi List-

There's a "Nose bra for DeLorean GMC" on ebay.  I don't know anything about 
it personally, or why the "GMC" in the title. But I can tell you that it 
isn't one of the Colgan nose bras that I recent made available thru the DML.  
Different style, different company.

-Wayne
"Living the Dream!"
11174 



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 22:32:37 -0000
From: sprins_at_dml_businessnet.net
Subject: Rain causes short cirquit in windscreen wipers

Hi,

My #17115 has an unconvenient bug; When it rains my windscreen wipers 
stop working, due to shortcirquit I think. I heard some 'sparky' 
sounds coming from the dashboard, hence the shortcirquit theory. When 
the sun shines the wipers work fine :)

I've already downloaded ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/ST33.pdf to help make 
the car water tight, but before I go at it I wanted to ask if someone 
else experienced (and perhaps solved) this problem. Any pointers are 
very much appreciated.

I couldn't find anything about it in the [DML] mailing list archives.

Thanks,

Sacha





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:10:18 EDT
From: amazinrick_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Ha! It can be done!...

Just thought I'd share this with you:  another amazing De Lorean feat!  :)  
Well, not really, but today we were driving around in the D which contained 
two people and an EIGHT FOOT light bulb!  :-p  (Needless to say we weren't 
going too far...)
              
        ~Rick E
                VIN 11174



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:03:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry Oden <lkoden_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for a DeLorean to be restored for museum use

Hi

My name is Larry.  I'm not really sure what you are
exactly looking for but I have an unique DeLorean that
might interest you for a museum.

I have a 1981, automatic, black interior, with 4700
miles on the car.  It is a unique motorcar, especially
for a museum.  It is vin # 614 or #617 (I don't have
my paper work here with me at this time)  It was one
of the first few Deloreans ever produced and from all
that I can tell it was the first automatic produced
and sold.  What makes it even more unique is that it
was used as a Delorean training car and has a sticker
affixed to the windshield stating "Official Delorean
Training Car"  I believe that it was used for such
things as display in the Detroit Motor Show etc,.  I
am a Rolls-Royce dealer in Ft. Lauderdale Fl., but
this is my own personal car.  I purchased it about 3-4
years ago from one of my Rolls-Royce customers.  The
car needs nothing.  I spent $5,000 on the car last
year just upgrading anything that it might need just
to keep it in good shape. (new injectors, new batters,
upgraded alternator, etc..  I am asking $25,000 for
the car, though I am not actively trying to sell it. 
I know that there are cheeper Deloreans available but
not in this condition or with this history.  If there
is any Delorean that should "appreciate" in value, I
would think that this is the one.  

Anyway, if you have an interest, you may feel free to
give me a call at (954) 779-2026 (if I am not there
please leave a message) or you can e-mail to me at
lkoden_at_dml_yahoo.com.  

Thank you for your time.
Larry K. Oden

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