From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 2:48 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 133

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Delorean storage question
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Delorean storage question
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. RE: Delorean storage question
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

4. Re: internal engine cleaning
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. RE: internal engine cleaning
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

6. Re: Engine compartment cleaning?
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

7. Re: possible idle switch misadjustment?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

8. Presenting Americas Most talked about Car...DeLorean
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

9. Re: New Car Show Comment
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>

10. RE: Fanzilla
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

11. Overheating Questions
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. RE: Soft Brakes (Bad Brakes!)
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

13. Wanted: Carpet Door Sill RH for Gray car
From: cwirz_at_dml_sairgroup.com

14. Article in this months' WIRED magazine
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

15. Re: DOOR GUIDES
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: Soft Brakes
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>

17. Re: Fanzilla
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: internal engine cleaning
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: Overheating Questions
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

20. no start problem
From: "dmc1982" <dmc1982_at_dml_email.msn.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 22:48:25 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Delorean storage question

Nate, Sounds like a pretty good deal. Not knowing all about the up dates. A 
good low mileage car, setting might have some minor resurection problems but 
that would be expected. Some mod's may need to be done to make it more 
dependable, but we in the D's do mod's all the time. I drove old corvetts for 
years and worked on them but De Loreans have been more fun.
If I can help, email, My $0.02c's worth
John 
11004
6935
6568
     



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 22:51:50 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Delorean storage question

Nate, 
Another thing, I bought a Turbo D car here in Dallas about a year ago that 
had been setting since 91. I put in fresh gas, hot battery fixed a little 
linkage problem and drove it 25 miles to my house. 
How's that for dependable, That's 6935.
John 



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 11:38:08 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean storage question

Nate,

My car was essentially stored for 7-8 years but had many more miles on it.
The age, combined with storage, ruined most everything rubber (door seals,
motor mounts, belts) and particularly hoses in contact with fluid (coolant
hoses, hydraulic brake and clutch lines, master/slave cylinders, etc.).  The
car was drivable, but these items were at the end of their useful life or
already failing.  Seeing as how I wanted a daily driver, these things needed
replacement.

Such a low-milage car as the one you're looking at probably doesn't have all
the updates, either (window regulators, 'Zillas, etc).  Remember the
Delorean rule of 20:

  Cost of Vehicle  +  Cost of Repairs  =  $20,000

Generally speaking, the total cost of ownership of a Delorean is about
$20,000.  If you pay less for the car you'll make it up in repairs.  But it
depends on your intentions for the car, the amount of work you're
willing/able to do, and your willingness to compromise (i.e., "Those windows
are so small it doesn't matter if they don't work").  If you do need repairs
then you'll probably want to send it to a Delorean Specialist, but I don't
know where the closest one to you is.  It seems like they're all near the
coasts...OK, I just looked it up in the Repair Shop Directory and there's
one in Michigan: ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/repair2.pdf

Or you can be like me and have the car lowered, get a new engine with an
extra 60HP, new seats, new tires, etc., which blows that $20k figure right
out of the water.  Not that I'm complaining...


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695






> -----Original Message-----
> From: nskalsky_at_dml_remc4.k12.mi.us [mailto:nskalsky_at_dml_remc4.k12.mi.us]
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 10:56 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Delorean storage question
>
>
> I'm still looking for the "right" delorean, right now I'm looking at a
> 1981' with the gas flap and sport stripes.  it has 7,500miles.  it has
> been in storage since 1992, heated facility.  the owner is replacing
> the fuel pump and has ordered a fuel system kit.  besides the fuel
> system, what else should I look at mechanicly that long term storage
> may have inflicked?  he is asking for about 14,800, well within my
> budget but I'm wondering how much would I might be sinking into it to
> turn it into a summer, weekend car? Thanks in advance!!
>
>             - Nate Skalsky, MI




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 23:10:22 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: internal engine cleaning

Doc, There is a product called Reslone you can buy at any automotive store, 
If you would run that along with the proper weight oil for the engine, The 
high detergent in both products may cure the problem over a period of time. 
Since the new high detergent oil's came out year's ago I don't see or hear of 
much sludge build up.
My $0.02c's worth 
John



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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 08:18:00 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: internal engine cleaning

I have no experience with a "prefessional" engine cleaning, but Pep Boys et
al sell "Engine Flush" or something for much less than $200, but I've never
used that, either.  I think it's just a solvent intended to thin the goop
and lift some deposits before you drain the oil.

Synthetic oil has many benefits, but there's nothing magic about it.  It is
not designed to clean the engine, but because of it's purity it tends to
have a cleaning effect.

What kind of "goop" did you find in your oil pan?  How often to you change
the oil?


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695


> -----Original Message-----
> From: doctor who [mailto:ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:56 AM
> Subject: [DML] internal engine cleaning
>
> I have a high mileage engine and based on the goop i have seen on
> the bottom of the oil filler cap have been considering having this
> internal engine cleaning done to my vehicle.
>
> I was also considering switching over to sythetic type oil
> and i had heard a rumour that it is recommended that you have
> your engined > flushed first before switching...




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 03:51:08 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Engine compartment cleaning?

For normal clean-up, I use the same thing as I use outside the car - 
Windex and lots of paper towels (assuming you're not starting with a 
totally greasy mess). In that case some Gunk Engine Brite works 
wonders first. Laquer thinner is a good grease-cutter too, but be 
careful, used it on a rag only, there are some surfaces that you 
don't want to get it on.

Dave Swingle
5429

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_b...> wrote:
>   Can someone please outline some simple pointers to cleaning the 
engine
> compartment?  I'm not looking for concours level/white-glove level 
cleaning,
> but something to make it pretty and presentable for a local car 
show. . 




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 22:59:29 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: possible idle switch misadjustment?

Richard, What dmcjoe said about adjustments is correct, also look for broken 
or hard cracked wires coming from the switch. They could look like there 
connected but not. If you need a switch, I have new micro-switches for it. If 
you have a little ohm meter you could check it for opening and closing.
John   



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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 23:12:55 EDT
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Presenting Americas Most talked about Car...DeLorean

        
Dear DML,

If anyone knows what this is, and has one or two or three that they want to 
sell, please email me.

In addition, would Michael Babb please contact me. I need to talk to you 
about the box and posters.

Sincerely,

Michael



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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 02:13:10 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: New Car Show Comment


Congratulations Dave!

My new remark came this weekend in Atlanta, where some kid looked over and
said "isn't that the car that blew up in Resident Evil?"

Ah, the joy of youth.


Scott




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 10:54:35 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Fanzilla

Jason,

Try running the A/C here in Texas.  You'll never have to worry about that
compressor kicking on and off, except for when turning the key.  :-)

The cooling fan circuitry is of poor design and seldom if ever works
correctly.  The FanZilla is required unless a previous owner updated the
wiring, as was the recommendation before 'Zilla products were available.

My cooling fans always run when the mode switch has A/C selected.  I think
this is a modification but your fans should at least come on when the
compressor is running.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695




> -----Original Message-----
> From: J Rowe [mailto:rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net]
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 8:19 PM
> To: DeLorean News
> Subject: [DML] Fanzilla
>
...I don't like to drive with a/c in any car but I did
> try it once in the DeLorean and turned it
> off after about 5 minutes because I was getting real annoyed with
> the compressor kicking
> on all the time. I will still buy a fanzilla reguardless. I just
> want to check to see if there is anything
> that I should check before I put the radiator and fans back in
> the car this weekend.
>
>                Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate
> evryones comments............Jason




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 09:07:36 PDT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Overheating Questions

My DeLorean has never overheated, at least not in my ownership. I'm curious 
though, I think it was maybe DMC Joe saying; "The secrets to long PRV life 
is to change the oil and don't overheat it".

Exactly how damaging is overheating to the engine?

If the car has had a couple of overheatings compared to say, 10?

If you stop immediately and have the problem corrected, or say driving two 
hours with a high reading on the temperature gauge.

What about a "total" overheating where you actually loose coolant and damp 
coming up of the engine compartment?

I think many would be interested in hearing the answers from the 
professional mechanics on this list...

I'm just curious...

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 11:46:13 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Soft Brakes (Bad Brakes!)

Gary,

Failing to stop intermittently is still what we consider "bad".   :-)

Seriously, your brake master cylinder has failed, I had the same excitiment
with my car when I first bought it.  DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR.  You are risking
your life.  There are replacements available, or I vaguely recall other
DMLers that had theirs rebuilt.

Good luck,


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695



> -----Original Message-----
> From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:delorean31_at_dml_aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 11:08 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Soft Brakes
>
>
> I was driving my D the other day.  A couple of times the pedal
> went all the
> way to the floor.  Then it seemed to be fine again.  I checked the normal
> probable causes...fluid, etc..  I also had the brake fluid
> flushed recently.
> Anyone had a similar problem.  I would think if the master
> cylinder was bad
> it would be occuring all the time not just once in a while.




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 21:14:14 +0200
From: cwirz_at_dml_sairgroup.com
Subject: Wanted: Carpet Door Sill RH for Gray car




I'm looking for a Carpet Door sill Right for Gray Car Passenger side.
VIN 4000 to 10500

I'm Paying a very good Price !!!!

the Carpet has to be brand new, perfect in Condition and never put in a De
Lorean

Christoph Wirz
wirz_at_dml_delorean.ch





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:34:06 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Article in this months' WIRED magazine

MODERATOR'S NOTE: Although this posting does not appear to be directly
DeLorean related, I'm told that this article is DeLorean related but details
are missing in order to avoid spoiling the ending.


For anyone that knows of the Rocket Car/JATO pack Urban Legend,  there is a
good article in this month's WIRED magazine from a guy who claims he is the
source of the rumor, and parts of the legend are actually true.   It's a
really LOOONG read, but well worth it, especially when he starts talking
about dusty mine shafts and a car with steel wheels on railroad tracks.   It
has a great ending.  I rarely make it to the end of these novel-length
articles in WIRED, but something about this article made me read it until
the very end, and boy, was I surprised!   It's well worth the time to read -
but I'm not convinced it is a "true" story.

-Hank  #1619






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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 16:50:17 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: DOOR GUIDES

Sorry,

The correct number should read Service Action SA-0006.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Hank Breer <hbreer_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 5:08 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] DOOR GUIDES


> Joe,
>
> Better check that Service Bulletin again. Service Action SA-0005
> states that there were 2 door latch guide kits: W300003 for cars up to
> VIN 1100 and W300004 for cars after. (My car, VIN 1141 needed the
> W300004 kit to add the guides that were NOT installed by the factory)
> The SA implies (but does not specifically state) that cars up to VIN
> 3000 are affected. Since VIN 3000 is an August 1981 build and the
> bulletin was issued in September, the timing is about right.
>
> Hank Breer
>
>
> DMC Joe wrote:
> >
> > Don
> >
> > The first 600 cars that left the factory did not have door guides, these
> > items were added as of Service Bulletin ST-14-9/81 which was issued
after
> > the factory was notified of problems with the latching of the doors. All
> > cars leaving the factory after Vin 1100 were fitted with Door Latch
Guides.
> > <Snip>
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 17:27:18 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
Subject: Re: Soft Brakes

> your master cylinder probably needs replacing.

Bob





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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 18:15:45 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fanzilla

Jason

You are absolutely correct about checking out your cooling fan problem
before purchasing the Fanzilla.

Do the following to determine if you car has the factory issued fan fail
modification. Access the electrical compartment under the passenger side
parcel shelf and
locate the Fan Fail relay socket. It is the only blue colored relay / socket
in the electrical compartment. You may refer to the following Electrical
Compartment link http://edit.store.yahoo.com/I/dsvstore_1593_25374. If there
is a blue
relay plugged into the blue socket, your DeLorean is equipped with the Fan
Fail Relay. This component has a 98% failure rate and is the reason that the
factory initiated a modification procedure to by-pass this component. If
this
is the case you might want to purchase the Fanzalla ASAP.

If you find two link (loop) wires plugged into the blue socket than you
already have the factory modification.

Let me know what you find and I'll instruct you on how to easily test the
entire cooling fan circuit.

PS: if you have a hole in your radiator you will need to have the radiator
repaired or replaced before attempting to drive the car.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: J Rowe <rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net>
To: DeLorean News <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 9:19 PM
Subject: [DML] Fanzilla


>             First I would like to thank everyone who has ever responded to
my
> problems that I have posted. I'm still a fairly new Delorean owner and am
> still catching on to the whole "experience" of owning the car. One of
these
> days I might be able help someone else out. For now I have another
question.
>
>            I posted a problem last week about my radiator getting a hole
in it when
> my cars started to overheat and my fans weren't on when I stopped the car.
I
> will be purchasing a Fanzilla in the next couple of weeks but I was
wondering if
> that is going to solve my problem with the fans not coming on. My take of
the
> Fanzilla was that it just reduces the sudden drop in voltage when the car
is driven
> with the a/c on and when the fans kick on. What should be the first thing
that I
> check with the fans to see why they are not coming on? I know that they
are plugged
> in at the fans so I know that's not the problem. Could it be the relay?
How can I tell
> if a relay goes bad? My fan fail light has never come on either. Any ideas
or  suggestions?
> Would a fanzilla take car of this?
>
>             I don't like to drive with a/c in any car but I did try it
once in the DeLorean and turned it
> off after about 5 minutes because I was getting real annoyed with the
compressor kicking
> on all the time. I will still buy a fanzilla reguardless. I just want to
check to see if there is anything
> that I should check before I put the radiator and fans back in the car
this weekend.
>
>                Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate evryones
comments............Jason







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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 18:33:48 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: internal engine cleaning

Caution: engine flushing can cause premature seal failure. There is a filter
at the bottom of the oil filler plug therefore it is normal to see dirt in
this area. The PRV-6 has a oversize sump and the oil filtering system does
an excellent job of cleaning the oil. We don't recommend any type of
flushing unless it has been determined that there are foreign contaminants
imbedded in the internal oil passages (rare).

"We're here to help you"

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: doctor who <ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 3:55 AM
Subject: [DML] internal engine cleaning


> has anyone had there engine flushed out w/a machine that is designed to
get
> the goop out of the engine.
>
> I have a high mileage engine and based on the goop i have seen on the
bottom
> of the oil filler cap have been considering having this internal engine
> cleaning done to my vehicle.
>
> my cocern is I dont know anyone who has had there engine flushed like this
> and this service cost $200. I dont want to pay for this if it is not going
> to do anything. I was also considering switching over to sythetic type oil
> and i had heard a rumour that it is recommended that you have your engined
> flushed first before switching a engine over from stardanrd oil to
> synthetic.
>
> does anyone have any experience w/this?
>
> thanks in advance,
> dr c.






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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 19:22:04 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Overheating Questions

Stian,

I believe I can answer your question simply. All metals will distort when
exposed to very high temperatures. Cast iron, which was used in most early
engine designs, can withstand much greater temperatures than aluminum. When
an engine overheats internal pressure combined with metal expansion will
usually cause head gasket failure, commonly referred to as "a blown head
gasket". In more extreme cases the engine block be  permanently warped.

Your question about the frequency of repeated over-heatings is like asking
how many times can you over inflate a balloon before it will burst. It could
take 10 tries or it may burst on the first try.

Her is the information I believe you want to hear. The PRV-6 can usually
take at least one over heating up to 280 degrees F and several at 240
without serious damage.

The important thing is: DO NOT OVERHEAT YOUR ENGINE! This is a sensitive
subject with me because I know that the PRV-6 is an extremely long lasting
and durable engine and the only major failures I have ever seen are related
to overheating. All the information and components are readily available to
prevent over-heating and owners should keep this on the top of their list of
preventive maintenance when servicing their DeLorean's.

Stian, this was a very good question, if you need more details feel free to
contact me directly.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Stian Birkeland <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 12:07 PM
Subject: [DML] Overheating Questions


> My DeLorean has never overheated, at least not in my ownership. I'm
curious
> though, I think it was maybe DMC Joe saying; "The secrets to long PRV life
> is to change the oil and don't overheat it".
>
> Exactly how damaging is overheating to the engine?
>
> If the car has had a couple of overheatings compared to say, 10?
>
> If you stop immediately and have the problem corrected, or say driving two
> hours with a high reading on the temperature gauge.
>
> What about a "total" overheating where you actually loose coolant and damp
> coming up of the engine compartment?
>
> I think many would be interested in hearing the answers from the
> professional mechanics on this list...
>
> I'm just curious...
>
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
>
> VIN # 06759






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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 21:40:12 -0400
From: "dmc1982" <dmc1982_at_dml_email.msn.com>
Subject: no start problem

This is a strange one. My DeLorean has failed to start twice now with the
following symptoms. It cranks over apparently normally. Battery level seems
fine. Fails to fire up.  I can crank it for several minutes but still no
luck. However if I run jumper cables from another car it fires up right
away. It did this when I got in the car to leave for Cleveland and tonight
also. Ran GREAT on the Cleveland trip. Starts up after the initial jump.

All ideas appreciated. Is there a circuit that is affected by a low voltage?

Cecil Longwisch
#10663





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