Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 3:00 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 134

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Alternator Testing
From: "DMC Joe" <>

2. Re: Fanzilla
From: "J Rowe" <>

3. Volts to spare

4. Headlight bracket assembly still needed...
From: "Danrc30" <>

5. Re: Warm-up circuit
From: "DOUG T VENNER" <>

6. Re: Installing antenna
From: "DMC Joe" <>

7. Re: no start problem
From: "DMC Joe" <>

8. British Car Day - results
From: "Hank Eskin" <>

9. Re: no start problem
From: "Cable Mail" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 12:35:41 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Alternator Testing


The proper test for your alternator is to attach a voltmeter to the
alternator output, start the engine, switch on all accessories, and note the
voltage reading.
Allow the engine to idle, with all accessories on for an additional 10
Compare the voltage between the start of the test and
after ten minutes of idle. *If the alternator is charging less than 12 volts
the end of the test the alternator may be deffective.

I'm not sure if you mentioned in an earlier post that this alternator could
be a Ducellier. If it is, you may be wasting a lot of time and effort.

The Ducellier's reputation is:
Never being able to supply the voltage needed when your DeLorean needs it
most; and completely failing, while your in traffic, on a hot summer
afternoon, while it is raining.

*Faulty ground connections anywhere in the electrical system can produce
false readings.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] "no start" is cured

> In a message dated 7/14/00 12:45:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> writes:
> << The Ducellier alternator is rated at 80 amps
>  continuous, >>
> Joe-  (& List)
> Took my D to Sears for the free replacement battery this afternoon.
> up the tester, Sears said they think the alternator is the problem, it
> charging the battery.  My mechanic told me yesterday, looking at HIS
> that the BATTERY is the problem, therefore the alternator, which he said
> fine, can't charge it fully.  What gives?  They both said the alternator
> seems to be putting out about 13 amps or a little less with the motor
> running.  They differ over whether that is "just fine" or "poor."The
> gauge reads at about "8 o'clock" sometimes below the lower middle line.
> looks low to me. Lower than before a/c season.  :(    I'm a daily driver
> most of my driving is under 10 minutes.  It's a small town.  Sears is
> charging the battery overnight to see if it is really the problem.  I'll
> interested to see who wins this "finger pointing" contest!
> -Wayne
> 11174


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 08:31:45 -0500
From: "J Rowe" <>
Subject: Re: Fanzilla

          o.k., I checked the relay with the blue socket and it has a black
relay plugged into it. It is actually a tad smaller than the one next to it.
I've tried Brandons idea of turning the key on and then turning the a/c
on and my fans didn't come on then either. What next?

            I also had something else strange happen yesterday. After I shut
my car off I kept hearing a clicking sound like something trying to turn
on and off about every 20 seconds. When that was happening, my power
antenna wouldn't go up or down like it should. It just went up and down
in slow increments when this "clicking" would happen. I checked inside the
electrical compartment and found that the red wire that comes out of the
black box behind all the relays and plugs into that thing behind that that has
4 prongs for wires to connect to was pretty hot. I disconnected the red wire
(with the black clip) and my antenna started working fine and the clicking
stopped. The problem is that I now have a wire that I don't know what it does
that isn't connected to anything like it should be. Anyone know what this is
please forgive my lack of terminology.

                     Thanks in advance..................Jason


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 00:54:21 EDT
Subject: Volts to spare


   I wanted to share a great experience with all of you that I have had with 
my recently purchased 140 Amp alternator. I finally have my volt meter on the 
dash at over 13 volts. John (dherv10) told me all along that his replacement 
alternator would make the needle jump and he was 100% right. Instead of the 
12 and 11 volts I was getting with the old Velco 90 Amper I am now never 
under 13 volts. What a great unit. For the price I paid I really got a 
superior product with about a one week turn around. It was easy to replace. 
You just need a couple of 17 MM wrenches or sockets (To disconnect the main 
bolt and nut) and a small adjustble to take the nut off the two wire 
connections. It takes maybe 20 to 30 minutes each time. What a change in the 
volts. I would recommend this any owner who has either the old 80 Amp or 90 
Amp set up.

Bill #11596


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 15:12:21 -0400
From: "Danrc30" <>
Subject: Headlight bracket assembly still needed...

I still need a used headlight bracket assembly. This is a fabrication experiment and I don't want to hack up a new one. I need the bracket, the bezels that the lights sit in, and if possible, the retaining rings as well. They don't need to be in great condition since they're gonna be cut and welded anyway. If anyone has one they could spare, please e-mail me privately at Danrc30(at) One person from this list was kind enough to donate the passenger side, but I would be willing to pay for the drivers side if needed. Thank you very much.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 18:11:56 -0400
From: "DOUG T VENNER" <>
Subject: Re: Warm-up circuit

My D idles smooth as silk on cold start, but after 5-10min. of warm-up it
starts to surge up and down at idle. It does this all the time and have yet
to find the problem. The car also hestitaes on accel but "kicks" in at about
2500 rpm(Kinda like a turbo kicks in, no I don't have a turbo! LOL), any
Doug Venner
83 D #16680

>When my D is warming up from a cold start, The  engine idles up and down
> >like someone is playing with the gas paddle.


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 12:47:20 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Installing antenna


We sent you the wire color code information for the ASI radio on Friday, the
Craig radio uses the same antenna control color code.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 10:51 AM
Subject: [DML] Installing antenna

> Hello,
>     I am installing a aftermarket power antenna on my car.  I have one
> question.  It says "connect the blue wire from the antenna to power
> wire from radio(usually blue) using quick connector provided"  does anyone
> know which color wire it is on a DeLorean Craig radio?
>     I have thought about making the dummy switch on the console raise and
> lower the antenna.  That would be much easier to install.  but just
> the radio will work for me.  please let me know about the antenna wire
> Thank You
> Dave
> #2496


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 13:13:22 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: no start problem

The next time your DeLorean will not start try jumping the RPM relay fuel
pump terminals, if the car starts than you have a defective RPM relay. If
you need detailed information on testing procedures contact us directly.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: dmc1982 <>
To: <>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 9:40 PM
Subject: [DML] no start problem

> This is a strange one. My DeLorean has failed to start twice now with the
> following symptoms. It cranks over apparently normally. Battery level
> fine. Fails to fire up.  I can crank it for several minutes but still no
> luck. However if I run jumper cables from another car it fires up right
> away. It did this when I got in the car to leave for Cleveland and tonight
> also. Ran GREAT on the Cleveland trip. Starts up after the initial jump.
> All ideas appreciated. Is there a circuit that is affected by a low
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 20:58:53 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <>
Subject: British Car Day - results

Thanks for everyone's help for which I asked over the last few days (info
sheet, engine cleaning).

While my Delorean didn't fit into any of the well-known British marques like
MG,  Austin, Triumph, Jaguar, Mini, Lotus, Rover, or Rolls, it did fall
nicely into the "Special Interest" Category.   It attracted LOTS of
attention, and I dispelled many of the typical myths.  There were four cars
in this group: (a) Jensen Interceptor; (b) my Delorean, (c) 1958 Riley, and
(d) a small Bond three wheeled motorcycle/car thing that has a 4HP motor.
While it's not much of an award, I did get second place in the category.
(out of 2 place awards!)  The Jensen got first place, and he well deserved
it - the car was in beautiful shape as well as fully British.

On a side note, all three production gull-wing cars (that I know of) were
represented today - the museum were the event was held had both a Mercedes
300SL and a Bricklin on the grounds, and of course my Delorean.

It was a fun day, and quite a difference from Cleveland where I was just one
in 100 Deloreans, and today I was the only Delorean that really stood out
from the crowd.



Message: 9
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 17:59:58 -0400
From: "Cable Mail" <>
Subject: Re: no start problem

    I am no expert but it seems to me that you might have poor grounding
somewhere.  Using another car to jump yours works b/c the other car has
better grounding than your D.  I do not own a D currently but i read about
poor grounding a lot and seems to usually be related to starting engines.
See what other people have to say but i think it's the grounding.

-Mikey D