From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 1:29 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 165

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Lees Keys
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

2. Re: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

3. Re: ground to wheel well measurements
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

4. Re: Stainless Dent Removal !
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

5. Galvanizing frame?
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

6. RE: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

7. DeLorean keys
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

8. DeLorean Keys II
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: convex stick-on mirrors
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

10. Re: Polishing the stainless steel (Here's a possible solution)
From: "Jason Johnston" <kenworth_77_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. suspension
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. DeLorean Submerging-Part I (RE: Re: Interesting Stainless Steel Info)
From: "Jason Johnston" <kenworth_77_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!
From: "Michael DeLuca" <mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com>

14. Fall Foliage Tour update
From: "Michael DeLuca" <mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com>

15. Re: Stainless Dent Removal !
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>

16. Need a Dented "T" panel
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Stainless Dent Removal !
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: Galvanizing frame?
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: DeLorean Keys II
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

20. fuel distributor for sale
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>

21. RE: Galvanizing frame?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>

22. Re: Galvanizing frame? NO, DON'T!
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

23. Re: Lees Keys
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>

24. Re: suspension
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219_at_dml_one.net>

25. Engine dies when clutch is engaged
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:27:02 -0400
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Lees Keys

Derrick,
        You are a lucky man.  I heard about Lee's key blanks on the list and
I've emailed him three times since I bought my DeLorean in June and have yet
to receive a response from him.  I need blanks because my car never came
with the originals and they are getting worn as it is.  If anyone on the
list is in contact with Lee can you please ask him to drop me an email?  I'd
appreciate it.  Thank you.

Matthew
VIN #10365
----- Original Message -----
From: "Derrick Viane" <clarion9375r_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:17 PM
Subject: [DML] Lees Keys


> List,
>
>    When I bought my D in Jan. I received only one set of actual DMC keys
> which were not in the best condition.  So like many of you I was in search
> of a replacement, and the parts suppliers did not have any.  Then I came
> across a post from Lee Seiler stating that in his spare time he make a
> replica of the ignition key.  So I sent him the money for a
key($15.00+$2.50
> S/H)  I received the keys yesterday and I am very pleased with them.  So
if
> you are looking for an ignition key Lee makes an excellent replica.  He is
> also in the process of getting started on the lighted door key.  So I
thank
> Lee very much for the services he provideds for the DeLorean Community and
> for the service he has provided for me.  So to Lee from all of us who have
> had the pleasure of doing business with you we are very grateful for the
> stuff you make in your spare time.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Derrick Viane
>
> Experience is not what happens to you; It is what you do with what happens
> to you.
> Vin#1657





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 03:33:39 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!

I'm sure James will jump in any second, but did anyone call Wynne on 
this? I recall in a visit to the warehouse seeing cartons of shocks 
(admittedly 18-year-old ones) and I bought a pair from him a couple 
of years ago that looked shiny new and performed fine (i.e. just as stiff as the originals!). 

There are two styles of "original" shocks by the way - one that needs 
spacers on the lower end ane one that has a long sleeve and needs no 
spacers. 

There are other options, see  
http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/shocks.html  for example.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Yup, it's true the front shock absorbers are VERY hard to get if 
not 
> impossible. Rob at PJ Grady just had some custom made shocks (front 
> and rear) made up to be the exact match to the original ones, 
> dimension wise. You do not need to perform any modifications at all 





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 00:57:37 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: ground to wheel well measurements

It might be possible that someone put taller rear springs on your front
suspension and then tied the nylon straps on to keep the front end from
being too high as a result.  I would suggest crawling under your car and
checking the springs more carefully.  The front springs on my car have a
diameter of 0.486 inches, and there are about 7 coils visible.  The rear
springs are slightly larger in diameter (0.512 inches) and there are about
10 coils visible.

Your suspension is only slightly higher than mine (at most 3/8th of an
inch), and my car's suspension already appears to be the standard 1.5" too
high anyway.  It doesn't make sense for someone to go to the expense to make
the front of the car higher still in order to accommodate slightly larger
tires.

About the nylon strap on the front springs, I don't think it belongs on
there at all.  If it were compressing the springs, I would think something
like that would break off easily after hitting a bump.  I don't see such a
strap on the front of my car.  If those are rear springs on the front of
your car, it may be that the straps were put there to adjust the suspension
height.  Sounds like a real stupid idea to me.

My Delorean is not lowered, and I intend to lower it the usual 1 1/2 inches
in the future.  Does anyone know how Rob Grady's suspension lowering kit
compares to the hack & swap method of suspension lowering?

I've noticed that the left side of my car is about 1/2 inch lower than the
right.  Do I have a problem with my suspension?

I got curious and measured my car.  Here's what I found:
Right front fender is 25 5/8" off the concrete and the top of the wheel to
the bottom of the fender is 3 7/16".
Left front fender is 25 3/16" off the concrete and the top of the wheel to
the bottom of the fender is 3".
Right rear fender is 27 3/8" off the concrete and the top of the wheel to
the bottom of the fender is 2 5/16"
Left rear fender is 26 13/16" off the concrete and the top of the wheel to
the bottom of the fender is 2 1/8".

The front tires are Goodyear NCT HR60   195/60HR14 with average tread depth
of 2.5mm
The rear left tire is Goodyear NCT HR60   235/60HR15
The rear right tire is Radial GT SLX 5000 235/60R15

I think all the Goodyear tires are the factory originals.  The car is a Sept
'81 VIN 03633 with 10K miles.  The 'off the concrete' measurements were
taken from the floor under the center outside wall of the tire to the bottom
of the black trim molding on the bottom of the fender directly above the
center of the wheel.  If your car is missing the black trim inside the wheel
well, then adjust your measurements by 1/16th of an inch.  I believe these
measurements to be within 1/16th of an inch.  There was no one in the car
when these measurement were taken, and there was no significant non-factory
weight affecting the suspension.  The car was on level pavement.  Am I being
too technical?  I thought so!

Walt




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 01:17:39 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Stainless Dent Removal !

In a message dated 8/9/00 10:34:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
declan_at_dml_seagreentech.com writes:

<< Hi All
    I have a question, I know that this is possible but has anyone
 actually
    had this work done ... ! My roof panel has several creases in it.
 Looks like the
    previous owner tried to adjust the tension bars and .... well you
 know the rest.
    But anyway I would like to have it repaired.
    A new one is costs approx $450 ... 
  >>

Hey Declan,

    I have a dent on my t-panel also, I had sent James Espey an e-mail about 
trying to repair it, and he said that the labor to repair it will be about 
the cost of getting a new one.  You have to realize that when repairing 
something like this, the cost will add up to the price of a new one very 
quickly and isn't really cost effective to get it repaired.  Thats why I have 
to get a new one too.  James Espey, if I am wrong with any of this info 
please correct me.  I don't want to give out misleading info.  Thanks.

Later,
Nick
1852




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 01:20:11 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Galvanizing frame?

hey List,

  I am just about ready to have my frame chemically dipped then powdercoated, 
and I was wondering if anyone on the list had their frame galvanized before 
they had it powdercoated?  Also, about how much did it cost them to 
galvanize?  Thanks in advance.  

Later,
Nick
1852



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 00:45:13 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!

I have a set of custom shocks on all 4 corners from DMC-Houston and am very
pleased with the handling.  The original fronts are no longer available.

My windows assemblies and lowered springs were obtained from them as well,
but Stephen did the installation.  Neither of them is a trival matter to
install, you are braver than I am.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 5:44 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Important Shock Absorbers Questions!
>
>
> Hello list,
>
> I have a few questions regarding the DeLorean's shock absorbers
> since I plan
> to get new ones on my DeLorean.
>
> 1) I've heard that the original FRONT shock absorbers are no longer
> available. The original REAR shock absorbers are supposed to be still
> available. Can anyone clarify/correct if this is true or not?
>
> 2) In any event, if both FRONT and REAR shock absorbers are
> available, are
> they as good as new after all these years in storage?
>
> 3) If replacements are available what is the best choice? And what
> modifications are necessary? Do they differ in function from the
> originals?
> If they do, then what are the advantages/disadvantages of the new ones?
>
> Hope to get some clear and consise answers to my questions....
>
> PS! Has someone else on this list ordered new window assys and new
> euro-springs from DMC Houston? If so, did you get instruction sheets
> together with the shipment???
>
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> NORWAY
>
> VIN # 06759
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 03:24:54 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean keys

I have been wordering, did the DeLorean lighted key come with every model 
year DeLorean or just the early 81s?

John Feldman
VIN 4275



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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 03:49:02 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Keys II

Also, when did they start taking only one key? Did the later 81's take only 
one key?
My DeLorean came with only one key, and I was looking through the owner's 
manual, and it said that it came with two keys. I was thinking, "Well, since 
the manual still has pictures of the early hood style, with the gas flap, 
maybe they didn't update the key information."
I am in no need of a key, meaning the key I have now operates all of the 
keyholes.

Also, there is a lighted key on eBay for $50.00, uncut. I have heard Lee is 
making keys, but not the lighted ones yet.

Thanks a lot,
John Feldman
VIN 4275



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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 07:55:01 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Re: convex stick-on mirrors

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
>>>(not the housing) with 'sphered' ones to 
>>>increase the visibility around the car.
> 
> I understand you can get small stick-on mirrors to do that.  Put it
in the 
> corner of your existing mirror.  Haven't done it myself.

Well I have done so on my Escort and I hated them so much that I 
removed them within a day: They had a black rim around them which was 
drawing my attention so much that every time I used my mirror, I
ended up looking cross-eyed!

Another problem I encountered was that because of the sudden change 
from flat to convex I had to re-focus to use the tiny mirror. Though 
this doesn't take all that long, every time this happens you "loose"
a few seconds of looking forward. On a Highway, driving at about 75 to
80 mph (about 120 kmh) thats around 35 meters (about 100 feet) you 
travel forward each second!

I think the Toyota-mirror someone suggested could be cut to a perfect 
size when done by a craftsman using the right tools. So what if this 
costs some money; any accident that you can avoid because of these 
mirrors will pay back for the costs. I mean what can you replace on a 
"D" for a few dollars? Close to nothing!

Greetings from the Neterlands,

Jan van de Wouw
Think Different...   Use a Mac...
Live the Dream...   Drive a DeLorean

Check out the DeLorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
--------------------------------





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 00:36:35 CDT
From: "Jason Johnston" <kenworth_77_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Polishing the stainless steel (Here's a possible solution)

This is hard but if the stainless steel has steel wool in it, it is probably 
non-removable. I say this because the steel reacts with the Chromium Oxide 
protective layer on the stainless steel. Unless the Chromium Oxide layer 
were removed, the steel wool won't come out. (I have never tried this but it 
might work for this situation. If you could get a fairly strong 
electromagnet, attach some sandpaper on to it and buff the panels. If it 
works (and the magnet is strong enough) the electromagnet might be able to 
pull the steel wool out as the sandpaper cleans the surface. Since I don't 
even know if it is even possible, I can't say it will work. BUT someone 
might be able to try.)
Thats my 2 steels worth (I mean 2 cents)

Jason Johnston,
DMC Enthusiast and Researcher,
Kemco Industries, Inc.
Fort Worth, Texas

The previous owner of my DeLorean, on the day we paid him, said,"...and you 
can polish it with steel wool." He never said he did it himself, but I 
didn't really know if you were supposed to do that. Of course, knowing that 
all of you smart people would know a lot better, I checked out the many 
informative DeLorean sites and in the DeLorean FAQ, I found that you were 
not supposed to use steel wool, saying it would appear the the stainless 
steel was rusting, and it was actually the tiny bits of steel wool.

What I was wondering is:
Is there a way to see if the car was polished by steel wool? And if it has, 
is there a way to reverse it and take the tiny particles of steel out of the 
stainless steel? I wouldn't want my dream car looking like it was "rusting."

Thanks a lot,
John Feldman
VIN 4275
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 04:08:04 PDT
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: suspension

List:

Is there a recent update on the "new" lowering/suspension system for our 
cars?  I seem to remember someone allowing their car to be used as a test 
vehicle and reporting good things, but have heard nothing since.  I am 
referring to the replacement of all 4 springs, shocks and adding the rear 
sway bar.  Is this available yet?  How much?  Who is selling it?
Thanks,
Brian #16584
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 00:09:56 CDT
From: "Jason Johnston" <kenworth_77_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DeLorean Submerging-Part I (RE: Re: Interesting Stainless Steel Info)

[I found so info that might prove otherwise that the stainless steel can and 
will rust, but it is too big to post. BUT I will post it on a webpage if any 
one is interested in how stainless steel can be damaged and rust if in 
placed in a certain environment.]
[Remember stainless steel is an alloy with the primary ingrediant as iron 
(iron + oxygen= iron oxide= rust) ] Send me a reply if anyone is interested.

Jason Johnston,
DMC Enthusiast and Researcher,
Kemco Industries, Inc.
Fort Worth, Texas

---------------------------------------------------
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Interesting Stainless Steel Info
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:20:39 -0500

How long to make the panels rust?  Probably never.

    http://www.dmcnews.com/backissues/dml089903.html

Read the message that contains the word " barnacles".


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695



-----Original Message-----
From: Erik Geerdink [mailto:delorean502_at_dml_excite.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 3:27 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Interesting Stainless Steel Info


If a Delorean were to be submerged in water, how long would it take
for the panels to rust?  they said in the article that Stainless steel needs 
oxygen in order preserve itself.  Wouldn't that be weird
to see a rusted Delorean driving around?

Erik Geerdink
4512

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 16:02:06 -0000
From: "Michael DeLuca" <mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com>
Subject: Re: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!

It is my understanding that the front shocks are no longer available.
PJ Gradys has a replacement that makes the car ride better then new.
Rob has them on the green car and I had the privilege of driving it 
for about 50+ miles back to New York coming home from the Cleveland 
show.
I would not hesitate to have them put on my car, they are great!
 
Mike D.
Vin 3113
NY Lic. DLORIANN


--- 

In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello list,
> 
> I have a few questions regarding the DeLorean's shock absorbers 
since I plan 
> to get new ones on my DeLorean.
> 
> 1) I've heard that the original FRONT shock absorbers are no longer 
> available. The original REAR shock absorbers are supposed to be 
still 
> available. Can anyone clarify/correct if this is true or not?
> 
> 2) In any event, if both FRONT and REAR shock absorbers are 
available, are 
> they as good as new after all these years in storage?
> 
> 3) If replacements are available what is the best choice? And what 
> modifications are necessary? Do they differ in function from the 
originals? 
> If they do, then what are the advantages/disadvantages of the new 
ones?
> 
> Hope to get some clear and consise answers to my questions....
> 
> PS! Has someone else on this list ordered new window assys and new 
> euro-springs from DMC Houston? If so, did you get instruction
sheets 
> together with the shipment???
> 
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> NORWAY
> 
> VIN # 06759
> 
______________________________________________________________________
__
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at 
http://www.hotmail.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 16:28:39 -0000
From: "Michael DeLuca" <mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com>
Subject: Fall Foliage Tour update

As an added attraction to the Fall Foliage Tour, David Teitlbaum (2nd 
place Concours winner in Cleveland this year) will be doing a 
presentation on DETAILING THE DELOREAN FOR JUDGING.
This will be Saturday afternoon Oct 21, on the beach in Newport RI, 
where we will be displaying the cars. 
  
For more details about the Fall Foliage Tour see below or e-mail me 
privately, I will be back in the office on Monday.  

The Delorean Fall Foliage Tour will be Oct 20-22 (Fri-Sun).
We will be staying in Westerly Rhode Island at the Pleasant View 
Inn(on the Ocean) http://www.pvinn.com/ Phone 1-800 782-3224.         
This trip will includes a stop in Mystic CT, a visit to Newport RI    
where I have made arrangements to display the cars on the beach, a    
trip to the Casino in Connecticut in the evening, a visit to the      
Submarine Museum in Connecticut and a dinner in Westerly (near the    
Hotel) at Maria's Seaside Café ($35 per person). The trip also   
includes a Tech Session at the hotel with Guest speaker Rob Grady.
    
Note: I am trying to get Bob the designer of the famous Zilla products
      to attend and also talk about them but that is still pending. 
               
It looks like Deloreans from Seven States so far will be attending 
(PA, NJ, NY, CT, MA, RI and NH). There should be a group of DeLoreans 
starting as far south as the Philadelphia area. The route will be
I-95 through New Jersey and New York and Connecticut. I will try to 
set up a few meeting places along the way once I get an idea of who 
will be attending (coming from Long Island I will probably join in at 
one of the first rest stops on I-95 in CT). People coming from the 
North may want to contact Eleanor Rogers of Deloreans of New England 
group who will be attending or contact me and I'll try to help set up 
a caravan for the New England people.
               
Gary Gore the activities director of Mid Atlantic was kind enough to 
post the Itinerary, check it out at        
http://hometown.aol.com/delorean31/fall.html 
                
If you think you would like to attend contact me at 
mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com 
Please make your own hotel reservation as soon as possible, we have a 
special rate of $90.40 but you must mention  you are with the
Delorean group. I will start collecting the $35 per person 
registration fee in Aug(that is to cover a complete sit down dinner
at 
the restaurant BTW)   
               
              Regards,
               
              Mike D.
              Vin 3113
              NY lic. DLORIANN






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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 13:30:44 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Dent Removal !

If this is the case, why not try and fix it yourself?  You have nothing
to loose.

If you dont want the old dented one, I'll take it to "play with".  I
need to practice on something before I try to fix my dealer sign..


njp548_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
<SNIP>
>     I have a dent on my t-panel also, I had sent James Espey an e-mail about
> trying to repair it, and he said that the labor to repair it will be about
> the cost of getting a new one.  You have to realize that when repairing
> something like this, the cost will add up to the price of a new one very
> quickly and isn't really cost effective to get it repaired.  Thats why I have
<SNIP>



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 13:33:39 EDT
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Need a Dented "T" panel

OK guys (and ladies), I'm looking for another mangled part.  (A while back I was able to get a ripped bumper cover that met my needs from Darryl T.) This time I'm looking for a "T" panel.  But I don't want anything that's "usable".  (Keep those for people that need them.)  I'm only concerned with the portion BEHIND the doors, not the part BETWEEN the doors.  (That can be dented, ripped or even missing.)  It won't affect what I'm doing.  (or trying to do)  So if anyone has a "T" that you thought was unusable, I might have a use for it.  Let me know.

Steve
VIN 2650 (Project Delorean)
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean



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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:15:08 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Dent Removal !

My roof is dented, too, from a previous owner trying to adjust the doors.
The door still isn't adjusted right, and there are dents in the top of the
door and in the T-panel.  To make matters worse, at one time the top-front
of the driver's door caught the black metal windshield moulding and dented
it down a bit.  I'm getting a new OEM black moulding from PJ Grady.  Cost is
around $120.  I'm also getting a T-panel from a parted car for around $380
also from PJ Grady.  I plan on taking pictures of the replacement procedure
and posting them for the benefit of other List members.

Walt




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:24:20 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Galvanizing frame?

I've never heard of anyone galvanizing a Delorean frame, but I have had many
other things galvanized before.  Things that galvanize well are thick steel
pieces.  Things that don't galvanize well are thinner pieces of steel that
include stuff that would qualify as thick sheet metal.  Since the Delorean
frame consists mostly of sheet metal?  Correct me if I'm wrong, I would
expect the result to be a disaster.  I had a utility trailer galvanized long
ago.  The heat from the hot dipping made the flat trailer bed appear all
wavy.  It didn't hurt it, but it didn't look as good.  And still, years
later, the trailer rusted out anyway because the galvanizing didn't get to
the inner enclosed areas of the frame.  I would suspect that the Delorean
frame would be a similar situation.  There would be a lot of crevices that
the galvanizing material either would not flow into or out of.  You would
probably end up with a lot of areas that didn't get galvanized and other
areas that would collect heavy pockets of the material.  And then your frame
would be all distorted and wavy looking from the intense heat.

Walt




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 16:02:57 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Keys II

I have the two key system on my car, and it is a Sept '81.  Right now both
door locks are jammed up and will not take a key.  I am waiting on PJ Grady
to send me a new set of door locks which will use the same blank as the
ignition switch, thus converting my car to the one key system.  Rob said the
supply of OEM Volvo style door locks has run out.  Supposedly someone in
Europe is making new ones to fill the demand.  That is where mine are
coming from.  Be glad you have the one key system.

At $195 for a new set of door locks, I considered making GM door locks to
work, but every lock I tried to fit in the door is smaller than the hole.  I
spent hours in my spare time thinking about how to make something fit
without modifying the sheet metal of the door.  I finally came up with an
idea of making 2 stainless steel washers.  Both washers would have holes to
fit the GM door lock.  One washer would be mounted outside the door and
would basically work as an eschution (sp?).  The second washer would have an
outside shape to fit inside and level with the stainless door panel.  It
would have ears bending off of it to stop it from falling out.  Then the
standard spring steel clip would hold it all in place on the inside.  The
cost would be minimal, but it would take a lot of hand filing to make it
work.  But when I found out that replacement door locks could be purchased
that would key the same as the ignition switch, gas cap, and storage
compartment behind the driver's seat, I figured it would be better to spend
the bucks for the real thing and have only one key for the entire car.

For the rest of you with the two key system, be careful!  I recommend being
sure the keyhole is perfectly vertical before removing the door key.  If the
key comes out while the lock is turned, then good luck ever getting the key
back in there to straighten it out.  It takes a special tool to remove the
lock from the door without damaging it.  I hear that the DMC service
bulletins give instructions for breaking the original pieces apart with a
screwdriver to remove the old lock and then replacing it with the Volvo
style one-key system.

When I bought my car, the passenger door was jammed to the point where it
wouldn't take a key.  I later oiled both door locks and got the passenger
door to start working again.  Then the driver's door jammed up and wouldn't
take the key, so every time I locked/unlocked the car, I had to use the
passenger door lock.  But it didn't take long for the passenger lock to jam
up again too!  Luckily the locks jammed with the car unlocked rather than
locked.  Rob Grady tells me that the door locks from the 2 key system are
junk and not worth trying to rebuild.  He said something about a pin
breaking apart.

So now I have two OEM Delorean keys with lights in them that have no use
other than cool looking flashlights to do key bumps off of -- quite a
novelty at parties with the DMC logo & JZD's reputation.  (Not that I would
do that.)  I never liked carrying them anyway, because they take up too much
room in my pocket.

Walt





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 19:32:20 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: fuel distributor for sale

I have one good condition fuel distributor for sale.  It was tested 
out to make sure everything is ok, and it is.  Very little surface 
rust on it.  Please make me a good reasonable offer.  If you have any 
questions about it, please e-mail me.  I have pics on request. 

Thanks

Erik Geerdink





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 15:23:10 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>
Subject: RE: Galvanizing frame?

When I redid my frame, I had it Zinc Chromated ( the yellow coating found on
some parts) and then I powdercoated the frame.  The first coat is a zinc
rich primer coat followed by the color coat.  I did not galvanize the frame
for two reasons:
1) Fear of frame warping once the heat stress relieved the frame (and all
frames will react differently.
2) the problems associated with getting the zinc out of the holes.

I did galvanize the trailing arms before they were powdercoated.  Galvanized
parts need to "weather" a while before they are powdercoated (or painted) in
order to get a good bond.  I may be wrong here and you should talk to some
galvanizing companies before painting or powdercoating the frame.  Also talk
with the powdercoat person.  They may have some ideas.

Good luck on your project.

Nick Kemp
Deer Lake Orchard
Site of the Minnesota Fall Delorean get-together, Sunday Sept 17.  Everyone
is welcome.  Contact me for additional details.




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:29:48 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Re: Galvanizing frame? NO, DON'T!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, njp548_at_dml_a... wrote:
>I am just about ready to have my frame chemically dipped then
>powdercoated, and I was wondering if anyone on the list had their
>frame galvanized before they had it powdercoated?  Also, about how
>much did it cost them to galvanize?

I'd like to advise AGAINST galvanising a frame;
the forces created by the heating of the frame (in the liquid 
zinc-solution) would probably warp it... I've seen several warped
items at a company I used to pass by on my way to work and they
didn't 
look pretty... 
Imagine a gardengate about 3mtr (10 feet) long that had a 
twist in it of about 20cm (8 inches), those are forces you don't 
expect, but the sudden heat from teh dipping and the fact that not
all parts are heated equally will do that!

BE CAREFULL!

JAN van de Wouw
Think Different...   Use a Mac...
Live the Dream...   Drive a DeLorean...

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 22:24:05 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Lees Keys

I also got some of lee's keys when I got my DMC.  Actually had them before
it was running.  They're beautiful..I definately recommend them to anyone
who has a chance to get them.

Scott




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:22:40 -0400
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219_at_dml_one.net>
Subject: Re: suspension

Check out this link : http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/shocks.html

Richard




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 19:39:53 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: Engine dies when clutch is engaged

   I'm trying to help solve a problem one of our local club members is
having. He just had a local shop replace the radiator and hoses (all ordered
from one of the reputable major DeLorean suppliers) and everything seemed to
go well. He drove the car for a day with no problems but the next day the
car would die as soon as he would start to engage the clutch. The car starts
and idles well and will rev up fine in neutral. But as soon as the clutch
starts to engage the engine will sputter and die. Now the car is sitting
out, unable to make it up into the garage.

To me this sounds like a vacuum line. But we've gone over every one of them
and have not found a thing. If we can't find an answer soon he'll have to
attend the club BBQ on Sunday using his motorcycle. Does anyone have any
ideas??

Ken

=======================================================
Ken Montgomery	Sacramento, CA  VIN #10911  'OUTTIME'
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean/delorean01.htm
mailto:kenm_at_dml_csus.edu
Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://members.tripod.com/ncdmc/
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com  mailto:directory_at_dml_dmcnews.com
=======================================================



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