Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 2:18 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 169

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There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: POR-15 for Frame restoration
From: "Walter" <>

2. Re: Main Fuel Relay
From: "Walter" <>

3. Finding Keys
From: Dee Moats <>

4. Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q

5. toll booth window
From: John Yeoman <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 01:54:17 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: POR-15 for Frame restoration


For all the work you are going to do, I recommend using something better
than paint from a spray can -- especially Rustoleum.  I have found that
their paint works well on things like ceiling fans that never get bumped or
scratched; but for me, Rostoleum products do not hold up well on heavy use
items like bicycles, tool boxes, etc.  But then maybe they have improved
their paint lately.

Why don't you consider using Automotive paint?  Save a paint flake of the
original epoxy and have it color matched.  Then you could post the color
formula on the DML so that other people wouldn't have to pay to have the
color matched next time (provided they use the same kind of paint.)  Or
better yet, just compare your paint flake to samples they have in their
books.  Since you are painting a frame and not a fender, you don't even need
a paint booth.  All you need is a spray gun and a dry source of air to run
it.  But I suppose that if you had this equipment then you wouldn't be
talking about using spray cans...

But if you must use spray paint, I recommend Krylon over Rostoleum.  Maybe
they have a good color match, too.  I highly recommend  preparing a test
piece of metal to make sure that what ever combination of paint you are
using is compatible.  Several times I have mix-matched primers with color
coats and ended up with various problems such as the color coat dissolving
the primer creating a wrinkle finish, or just not sticking to the primer and
flaking off later.  Paint from spray cans can be tricky to work with because
they are generally very slow drying.  This gives the solvents more time to
react and cause an unfavorable reaction.

You have good reviews about the 'paint', but are you talking about the
COMBINATION of using POR-15 with Rustoleum or did you just hear rave reviews
about the POR-15?  Before you mix the two, be sure that they will work

In the end, I suppose that the color coat is just there for looks, so if
don't stick well, then it really doesn't matter.  Nah!  I does matter!



Message: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 02:29:08 -0400
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Main Fuel Relay


I have the exact same problem with my D, and mine is also an automatic.
When I started it today for the first time, it idles fine.  But when I step
on the gas, it hesitates and makes a very soft back-firing sound.  With a
little warm-up time and a little coaxing, it runs almost like it should.   I
describe the problem as having trouble 'breaking the idle threshold'.  Once
it's running faster than 1500 RPM, then it accelerates fine after that.

Other symptoms I have:

When I am sitting at a light, take my foot off the break and put it on the
gas, the car will give the same hesitation.  Basically, the car will barely
crawl forward.  When I switch the a/c off, it accelerates much better after
that.  Since I installed a 'John Hervey' edition 140amp alternator and a
Fanzilla, the car accellerates much better now.  But still all is not right.

Another symptom that I have which may or may not be related:

While I am accellerating, the center a/c vents on the dash close so that
only the door vents work.  When I am maintaining speed, then the vents come
back on.  I hear that it is normal for some loss of vacuum especially on
automatics under heavy accelleration, but on my car this happens under ANY

I'm thinking maybe I have a bad vacuum tank and/or the vaccuum advance isn't
working on the distributor.  Are you having the same vacuum problems that I

Also, does the Delorean even have a vaccuum canister?  And if so, where is
it and how can I check it?

Thanks y'all


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 06:14:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dee Moats <>
Subject: Finding Keys

I just bought a pair of keys from Stephen Wynn at DeLorean Motor Company in
Dee Moats
On Sat, 12 Aug 2000 02:03:05 EDT, wrote:

>  In a message dated 8/10/00 12:02:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> writes:
>  <<  I heard about Lee's key blanks on the list and
>   I've emailed him three times since I bought my DeLorean in June and have
>   to receive a response from him.  I need blanks because my car never came
>   with the originals and they are getting worn as it is.  If anyone on the
>   list is in contact with Lee can you please ask him to drop me an email?
>  Matt-
>  Someone on the list wrote in awhile back saying that Don at DeLorean
>  Center in Garden Grove, CA had them, and possibly some other suppliers. 
>  you can contact Ken Montgomery on this list... he knows Lee.
>  -Wayne
>  "The DeLoreran Nose Bra Guy"
>  vin 11174 
>  Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

Say Bye to Slow Internet!


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 09:57:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q

Welcome to Texas, Home of the hot start start . Just kidding. John Hervey 
here in Dallas. To answer your question about hot start. When the engine 
coolant is abpve 95 degrees, the cold start valve is being told not to work 
by the thermo time switch/engine coolant tempt switch. It may be time to 
install the hot start relay which will pulse the system with gas during 
cranking. If you need help, maby Gus in Austin or if your in Dallas area I 
could put it in for you. I do a lot of work on the cars as a hobby, but 
naturally DMC Houston could do it also. I threw a fan belt yesterday due to 
heat, Saturday and no telling what else is going to happen.
John Hervey
vin 11004  


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 10:09:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Yeoman <>
Subject: toll booth window

Hey List, I have a problem with my right toll booth
window.  The front end keeps slipping off the guide.
The guide doesn't seem to be bent or in any other way
different from the left one.  I have slippped out
the window and put it back in about four times, and
every time I do I run the window up and down about
100 times to see what makes it slip off.  Then, after
the 100th time when it doesn't slip off, I put the
trim back on and a few hours later when I try the
window, it slips off the guide the 1st or 2nd time I
the window.  Has anyone else had this problem happen
to their toll booth window, and how did you fix it?
All help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in


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