From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 3:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 170

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: toll booth window
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

2. two followup questions: engine selection and keys
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

3. Re: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064
From: bluevelvet420_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Rear Bearing Race Removal
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

5. Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: toll booth window
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

7. Monthly Contest
From: "Michael C.Babb" <michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com>

8. North Carolina Owners
From: "Michael C.Babb" <michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com>

9. DMC VS. Bricklin
From: "Michael C.Babb" <michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com>

10. Askew window
From: "Michael C.Babb" <michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com>

11. Re: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. Re: Stainless Dent Removal !
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>

13. RE: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

14. Re: Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

15. Re: toll booth window
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: Main Fuel Relay
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: Wide black stripe
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Changing front and rear springs
From: cordes_at_dml_pfizer.com

20. lambda light on dash
From: brownalizat_at_dml_exchange.uams.edu

21. Re: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064
From: Shannon Larratt <toys_at_dml_PriceOfHisToys.com>

22. RE: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064
From: "Michael G. Fischer" <michael.fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>

23. Re: lambda light on dash
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

24. Re:Frame Restoration (color matching the frame)
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302_at_dml_msn.com>

25. Re: toll booth window
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_performconsulting.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 12:25:48 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: toll booth window

The answer is obvious: don't reinstall the interior trim.  :-)   I'm sorry,
but I laughed SOOOoooo hard when I read your message, because I've had that
happen time and time again: everything works great until I put the last
screw back in, and then it stops working again.  I joke that I always leave
out one screw so that the thing doesn't realize that I've put it back
together.  :-)

But in this case I'm betting it coincidence.  My guess would be that the act
of closing the door either jars something loose or slightly torques the door
enough to cause the problem.  Alas, I don't know the solution.  I'm sure
somebody knows, though, since it's a common problem, it just hasn't happened
to me.  Yet.  <wood knocking>

Good luck,

Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695


> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Yeoman [mailto:theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 12:09 PM
> Subject: [DML] toll booth window
>
>
> Hey List, I have a problem with my right toll booth
> window.  The front end keeps slipping off the guide.
> The guide doesn't seem to be bent or in any other way
> different from the left one.  I have slippped out
> the window and put it back in about four times, and
> every time I do I run the window up and down about
> 100 times to see what makes it slip off.  Then, after
> the 100th time when it doesn't slip off, I put the interior
> trim back on and a few hours later when I try the
> window, it slips off the guide the 1st or 2nd time I operate
> the window.  Has anyone else had this problem happen
> to their toll booth window, and how did you fix it?
> All help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
>
> John




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 14:54:17 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: two followup questions: engine selection and keys


Engine:  Ok, I understand that John was basically limited to the PRV for the
D...so why was our PRV designed with such a low output, when so much more
was/is possible?

Keys:  Since I have an early '81 with two keys, I'm curious.  When they went
to the one key system, did they keep the old ignition key and change the
door lock cylinders, or keep the door key and change the ignition cylinder?
Inquiring minds want to know!

Thanks,

-Hank  #1619





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 15:02:25 EDT
From: bluevelvet420_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064

damn, that car looks pretty good, i dont know about the mechanics, but 
exterior and interior look NICE.
greg



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 16:33:48 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Bearing Race Removal

When you say the race is still on the axle I assume the bearing completely
came apart. I'd suggest heating the race with a propane torch to get it to
expand. If the outer race is still in the rear axle carrier you may have to
heat the carrier to get that to drop out. Prior to installing the new
bearing into the carrier, put it in the freezer for a couple of hours first.
Heat the carrier around the bearing area a bit and the frozen bearing should
go in pretty easy. It's worked for me when I didn't have access to a press.

Bruce Benson


> In replacing the rear axle bearings, how does one remove the inside, inner
> bearing race from the axle shaft?  There are no access points on the shaft
to
> drive the race off. I checked the workshop manual and it doesn't seem to
> address rear bearings at all.  Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>     Steve
>     VIN 2650  (Project Delorean)





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 21:30:57 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q

Chris, Robert, Walter, Open the panel behind the passenger where the 
relays are, look up above where the black blank spot is and you might 
see a relay socket laying up there with no relay in it. The wire 
color should be black, blue/black and white/red. This is where the 
hot start relay goes. It's all three of my cars. 6935,6568 and 11004
If you need relays, I have them. Call if I can help.
John
972-564-9321

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Chris Coplen" <blarness_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> I recently threw my D on a trailer and moved from Grand Rapids, MI 
(cloudy, and mild temps) to Austin, Texas (102 degree big, flaming 
ball in the sky that just won't quit).  
> 
> My DeLorean has NEVER had a starting problem ever.  The first time 
I started it in Austin it took five long cranks and then finally 
sputtered to life and ran poorly for the first minute.  This 
continues now EVERY time I try to start it when its hot out.  And, 
well, it's been triple digit temps all eight days I've been here.
> 
> I, at first, accounted it as vapor lock but it does it even when 
the engine is cold.  Then I thought maybe it's the Michigan gas, our 
votility levels are different than Texas due to our "unpredictable", 
and colder weather conditions.  So, late last night I threw a fresh 
tank of premium in and gave her a few high speed rips up and down I-
35 but I haven't had the chance to drive it today.
> 
> What would cause such a DRASTIC change in it's personality just 
because I moved into a hotter environment, and what can be done about 
it?  Thank you.
> 
> Chris
> GIGAWAT
> #3876
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:13:47 EDT
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: toll booth window

The best fix for this problem is to put a rivet in the guide where it holds 
the bracket of the window.  This should eliminate any further problems with 
the window coming out of its guide.  I did this to both my windows about a 
year ago and havent had any problems.

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360

<< Hey List, I have a problem with my right toll booth
 window.  The front end keeps slipping off the guide.
 The guide doesn't seem to be bent or in any other way
 different from the left one.  I have slippped out
 the window and put it back in about four times, and
 every time I do I run the window up and down about
 100 times to see what makes it slip off.  Then, after
 the 100th time when it doesn't slip off, I put the
 interior
 trim back on and a few hours later when I try the
 window, it slips off the guide the 1st or 2nd time I
 operate
 the window.  Has anyone else had this problem happen
 to their toll booth window, and how did you fix it?
 All help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in
 advance.
 
 John >>



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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:23:05 -0400
From: "Michael C.Babb" <michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Monthly Contest

Hello all.  having successfully moved across the country (an finished
unpacking my DeLorean stuff) I am re-instating the "Monthly Contest" on my
website.  For details, please visit www.babbtechnology.com or www.dmc-12.cc
or www.dmc12.cc (an soon to be www.dmc12.org as well).

Thanks!

Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA
Babb Technology
michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com
303.669.7811




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:25:24 -0400
From: "Michael C.Babb" <michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: North Carolina Owners

I have just moved back to North Carolina, and want to see if there are any
owners in the area that would be interested in getting together for some D
fun.  It appears that the number of D owners has increased around here, and
I am looking forward to meeting (or re-meeting all of the NC owners).  I am
in the Raleigh area, but am defanitely up for some road trips (Asheville,
Wilmington, etc.)

Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA
Babb Technology
michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com
303.669.7811




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:31:46 -0400
From: "Michael C.Babb" <michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: DMC VS. Bricklin

MODERATOR NOTE: Please do not reply to this message on the DML.  Reply only
Mr. Babb by private email.  If the subject interests you, there are already
plenty of Bricklin discussions in the DML backissues that you may read at
your leisure.
---------------------------

I think that I am about to take the plunge. . . I have been a DeLorean owner
for about 4 1/2 years (and have loved it).  As a result of owning the
DeLorean, I have made it a goal to one day own all three of the production
Gull-wings (and hopefully several more DeLoreans). The next logical car to
get is the Bricklin (at least price wise). I have found a Bricklin for sale
close by and am considering adding it to my gull-wing collection (bringing
the grand total up to a whooping 2).

If there are any list members who own or have owned a Bricklin, please
e-mail me privately.  I am trying to determining what to look for, look out
for, etc.  I am also interested in hearing the opinions of the cars from
people who own both a DeLorean and a Bricklin.

Thanks!

Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA
Babb Technology
michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com
DMC VIN: 3472
Bricklin VIN: maybe




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:35:40 -0400
From: "Michael C.Babb" <michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Askew window

On the trip from Colorado to Cleveland, there were some pretty stiff cross
winds.  While rolling up the drivers side window the wind pushed the window
inside of the molding (and I wasn't paying attention . . .to busy trying to
find the tornado that they were talking about on the radio).  This was
clearly not a good thing.  The window now rolls up crooked, ending up with a
gap towards the front of the car.

Any advice on getting the window back into proper alignment?  Or, just door
disassembly, and re-tracking?

Thanks!

Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA
Babb Technology
michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com
919.270.2488




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 02:30:54 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064

   I might be wrong about this, but I thought that 16000 & 17000 
series VIN's were manufactured for the Canadian Market. 20064 sounds 
like it might be one of the last few produced.
   The interior looks pretty nice, though the floor mats, pedals, and 
the parking bake show more usage then just 9,100 miles, and it 
already has some burned out bulbs in the doors. Air is kinda low for 
new tires. Don't know what the white stuff is splashed up onto the 
rocker panels, but it's probably just cement dust. Over all, not a 
bad car. Just needs it cosmetics cleaned and straightened. But with 
some of the tale-tell signs in the photo's, I'd probably verify that 
the mileage is correct.

-Robert
vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Hi everybody, I check ebay, and yahoo alot, and I found a delorean 
in Miami, 
> and the VIN was SCEDT26TODD020064 and I red about the Canidan 
deloreans that 
> had VIN 20000, or 200000 (I don't remember which one it was). Is 
this a 
> Cadidan car? Here is the url if you want some eye candy!
> http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/29733863
> John Giedosh a.k.a. Fronzel Neekburm
> 
______________________________________________________________________
__
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at 
http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 03:02:30 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Dent Removal !

If anyone is insterested, I have two front right quarter panels that 
have dents in them for sale.  And a left front with a very minor ding 
in it for sale.  All money from the sales goes to getting 4512 back 
on the road. (hopefully in 2 weeks)
I am selling the dented right quarter panels for a very good* 
price      *(good=cheap)
Just thought I would mention it.  

Erik Geerdink
4512

p.s
if anyone is looking for a project fascia (front or rear) please let 
me know.  I have some that are badly damaged, but might be good for 
testing purposes or modifying purposes.  I will sell for a good* 
price.




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 22:27:17 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q

Chris,

Welcome to Austin!  Geez, if we get any more DMC owners in the area we'll
need to start our own chapter.

I wish I knew why you're having a starting problem, I seem to be having one
as well.  On a brand-new engine no less.  It must be a teething issue in my
case because my former engine cranked right up every time, even at 102
degrees in the shade.  Clearly the PRV is a little rough until it's fully
broken-in, which appears to occur after about 100,000 miles.  :-)

The good news is that this is as hot as it gets.  If you live through the
next month, you'll make a fine Texan.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Coplen [mailto:blarness_at_dml_ix.netcom.com]
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 7:36 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Summer Heat, now hard starting Q
>
>
> I recently threw my D on a trailer and moved from Grand Rapids,
> MI (cloudy, and mild temps) to Austin, Texas (102 degree big,
> flaming ball in the sky that just won't quit).
>
> My DeLorean has NEVER had a starting problem ever.  The first
> time I started it in Austin it took five long cranks and then
> finally sputtered to life and ran poorly for the first minute.
> This continues now EVERY time I try to start it when its hot out.
>  And, well, it's been triple digit temps all eight days I've been here.
>
> I, at first, accounted it as vapor lock but it does it even when
> the engine is cold.  Then I thought maybe it's the Michigan gas,
> our votility levels are different than Texas due to our
> "unpredictable", and colder weather conditions.  So, late last
> night I threw a fresh tank of premium in and gave her a few high
> speed rips up and down I-35 but I haven't had the chance to drive
> it today.
>
> What would cause such a DRASTIC change in it's personality just
> because I moved into a hotter environment, and what can be done
> about it?  Thank you.
>
> Chris
> GIGAWAT
> #3876
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 01:47:50 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q

Robert,

The white colored hot start relay socket is already installed in your DeLorean, you will find it located at the rear most section of the electrical compartment attached to the main wiring harness bundle. Unfortunately there is no relay available to plug into the socket. You said that when you swap the cold start connector with the warm-up regulator the car starts fine, this is an indication that the time-temperature switch is defective.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Robert Rooney 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 10:28 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q


  In a way I'm kina glad to hear about this; it means I'm not the only 
  one! I've been having the exact same problems that you have, but 
  thought that it might be due to other factors on my engine. Warm 
  temps in spring time: no problem. Summer heat: hard starting. If 
  you're out some place and you need to leave in a hurry, swapping the 
  cold start valve & the control pressure regulator plugs will get you 
  going in a hurry. Now for the interesting part! If you turn to 
  section D:01:15 of the workshop manual under Electrical Circuit 
  Function, the last paragraph reads (bad punctuation included):
  "The car is wired for a hot start relay. This relay can be installed 
  if a hot starting problem is experienced in excessively hot regions 
  of the country. When this relay is used is used, the cold start valve 
  will inject intermittently durring cranking when engine is hot."
  If anyone here knows how/where to install this relay, let us know. It 
  would definately same me a bit of embarassment in the parking lot! 

  -Robert
  vin 6585




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 01:55:58 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: toll booth window

Most window "off track" situations are caused by problems at the regulator. If your Delorean is equipped with the OEM regulators replacing them with the heavy duty replacements should correct the problem. 

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: John Yeoman 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 1:09 PM
  Subject: [DML] toll booth window


  Hey List, I have a problem with my right toll booth
  window.  The front end keeps slipping off the guide.
  The guide doesn't seem to be bent or in any other way
  different from the left one.  I have slippped out
  the window and put it back in about four times, and
  every time I do I run the window up and down about
  100 times to see what makes it slip off.  Then, after
  the 100th time when it doesn't slip off, I put the
  interior
  trim back on and a few hours later when I try the
  window, it slips off the guide the 1st or 2nd time I
  operate
  the window.  Has anyone else had this problem happen
  to their toll booth window, and how did you fix it?
  All help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in
  advance.

  John




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 02:10:04 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Main Fuel Relay

Walt,

Most acceleration problems are related to the acceleration enrichment circuit. If this circuit is not functioning properly you fuel mixture is too lean when attempting to accelerate therefore you will experience the symptoms you are describing. Additionally an "out of tolerance" CO mix adjustment will also cause hesitation. 

Concerning your AC vacuum problem, this may be the source of your problem. First check all of the vacuum lines and insure that they are properly connected. If you have a factory installed AC mode switch it is probably leaking vacuum causing the problem you have described. The vacuum canister is located in the left rear pontoon body section: Parts Manual 2/4/0 #13. You will also find the vacuum routing on this page.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Walter 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 2:29 AM
  Subject: Re: [DML] Main Fuel Relay


  Mark,

  I have the exact same problem with my D, and mine is also an automatic.
  When I started it today for the first time, it idles fine.  But when I step
  on the gas, it hesitates and makes a very soft back-firing sound.  With a
  little warm-up time and a little coaxing, it runs almost like it should.   I
  describe the problem as having trouble 'breaking the idle threshold'.  Once
  it's running faster than 1500 RPM, then it accelerates fine after that.

  Other symptoms I have:

  When I am sitting at a light, take my foot off the break and put it on the
  gas, the car will give the same hesitation.  Basically, the car will barely
  crawl forward.  When I switch the a/c off, it accelerates much better after
  that.  Since I installed a 'John Hervey' edition 140amp alternator and a
  Fanzilla, the car accellerates much better now.  But still all is not right.

  Another symptom that I have which may or may not be related:

  While I am accellerating, the center a/c vents on the dash close so that
  only the door vents work.  When I am maintaining speed, then the vents come
  back on.  I hear that it is normal for some loss of vacuum especially on
  automatics under heavy accelleration, but on my car this happens under ANY
  acceleration.

  I'm thinking maybe I have a bad vacuum tank and/or the vaccuum advance isn't
  working on the distributor.  Are you having the same vacuum problems that I
  am?

  Also, does the Delorean even have a vaccuum canister?  And if so, where is
  it and how can I check it?

  Thanks y'all
  Walt




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 02:20:37 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Wide black stripe

When you find your wide stripes we have the factory instruction sheet the was included with this accessory. During the early years we installed quite a few of the wide stripe kits, as a matter of fact, I installed the first kit on my own DeLorean.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Noah 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 5:15 PM
  Subject: [DML] Wide black stripe


  Ok. I went and did it. I bought a D. '81/ 5sp / gasflap / black interior.
  It gets shipped to DMC Houston for some minor cosmetic work and then to
  me. Yay!

  Now then. The only this can doesn't have that I'd really like to have is
  the wide black dealer stripe. Searching the list archives led me to
  believe obtaining a set wasn't *entirely* impossible, so I figured I'd
  heckle people. If anyone has a set, I'll be happy to work out a deal with
  you. If anyone knows where I can get them, speak up! :)

  Oh, and once/if I get them, anyone have a clue as to who and how to
  install them?

  Noah

  VIN <dont-have-it-yet-its-sitting-on-my-desk-at-work> :)

  my $blame = shift;



  Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
  www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 04:04:00 PDT
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064

Maybe its just me, but that car seems to be an '81, not an '83.  The vin is 
correct for an '83, but it has the smaller exhaust pipes like the earlier 
cars and has all gray interior instead of two-tone. Additionally, it appears 
that the hood has lines in it-like an '81.  I guess all of this could have 
been changed or updated, but it says it is a low-milage car.  I would worry 
that the pictures are not of the car that is for sale.
Brian #16584

 >
>Hi everybody, I check ebay, and yahoo alot, and I found a delorean in 
>Miami,
>and the VIN was SCEDT26TODD020064 and I red about the Canidan deloreans 
>that
>had VIN 20000, or 200000 (I don't remember which one it was). Is this a
>Cadidan car? Here is the url if you want some eye candy!
>http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/29733863
>John Giedosh a.k.a. Fronzel Neekburm

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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:02:43 -0000
From: cordes_at_dml_pfizer.com
Subject: Changing front and rear springs

I heard of several people who decided to lower their Deloreans....is 
this a difficult task to change out the springs?  Does the job
require 
any special tools or is there things to look out for while doing 
this job.




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 14:28:40 -0000
From: brownalizat_at_dml_exchange.uams.edu
Subject: lambda light on dash

The lambda light on our dash is lit, what does this mean? We tried 
looking in the owners manual and it was really not very clear. Does 
it mean the car needs to be serviced? Also, my husband was working on 
our '81 delorean and noticed an electronic box below the clutch 
pedal ...what is it? We are new delorean owners and this is probably 
going to be one of many questions that we will have about our lovely 
car!

thanks for your input!




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 12:24:00 -0400
From: Shannon Larratt <toys_at_dml_PriceOfHisToys.com>
Subject: Re: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064

At 8/14/00 04:04 AM -0700, you wrote:
>Maybe its just me, but that car seems to be an '81, not an '83.  The vin is 
>correct for an '83, but it has the smaller exhaust pipes like the earlier 
>cars and has all gray interior instead of two-tone. Additionally, it appears 
>that the hood has lines in it-like an '81.  I guess all of this could have 
>been changed or updated, but it says it is a low-milage car.  I would worry 
>that the pictures are not of the car that is for sale.
>Brian #16584

Mine is an 83 and it's identical -- with the smaller exhaust pipes and the
all gray interior. Mine is a Canadian model, maybe this one is too like a
previous poster suggested... However, mine does not have the lines on the
hood.

         Shannon



----------------------------------------------------------------------
Shannon Larratt                                toys_at_dml_priceofhistoys.com
Exotic Kit Cars                         http://www.PriceOfHisToys.com/




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 09:56:52 -0700
From: "Michael G. Fischer" <michael.fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>
Subject: RE: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064

  Howdy,

	As 2nd owner of one of the '83 Canadian DMC's (VIN 17106) 

  I was told that the 17xxx series was intended for the Canadian market and
the 20xxx series was built for overseas,  both intended production runs,
which means that they got first crack at the parts bins, implying they more
likely have 'correct' colour interiors then their '83 "American" siblings.

  Additionally, at least mine, has the straight smaller exhaust pipes, but
the hood is flat, with the DeLorean badge in the front right corner

  As for the "Canadianness" of this car ... I don't think so, since they say
9,100 MILES and the Canadian model cars (or at least mine) have the gauges
in metric, i.e. speedo in Kilometers...  

  Of course these are just my observations, and I could be wrong.

Mike
VIN 17106



-----Original Message-----
From: Lynn Metz [mailto:metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:04 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] VIN SCEDT26TODD020064


Maybe its just me, but that car seems to be an '81, not an '83.  The vin is 
correct for an '83, but it has the smaller exhaust pipes like the earlier 
cars and has all gray interior instead of two-tone. Additionally, it appears

that the hood has lines in it-like an '81.  I guess all of this could have 
been changed or updated, but it says it is a low-milage car.  I would worry 
that the pictures are not of the car that is for sale.
Brian #16584

 >
>Hi everybody, I check ebay, and yahoo alot, and I found a delorean in 
>Miami,
>and the VIN was SCEDT26TODD020064 and I red about the Canidan deloreans 
>that
>had VIN 20000, or 200000 (I don't remember which one it was). Is this a
>Cadidan car? Here is the url if you want some eye candy!
>http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/29733863
>John Giedosh a.k.a. Fronzel Neekburm

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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:06:41 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: lambda light on dash

brownalizat_at_dml_exchange.uams.edu wrote:

> The lambda light on our dash is lit, what does this mean?

The lambda light comes on every 30,000 miles to incite you to get the
lambda circuit serviced.  You should replace the oxygen sensor, which is
not expensive.  The easiest solution is to contact one of the DeLorean
parts suppliers.  You can find a list of suppliers on the DMC News
website:
http://www.dmcnews.com/links.html

and on the DOA website:
http://www.delorean-owners.org/index2.html

> Also, my husband was working on our '81 delorean and noticed an
> electronic box below the clutch pedal ...what is it?

BELOW the clutch pedal, you say?

Sounds like an aftermarket addition, maybe a cruise control.  It might
also be the windshield wiper control, inertia switch, or some other
module that fell out of its place under the dashboard.

I suggest you get your hands on the factory parts manual, which is
available as a free download from the DMC News page:

http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html

The manual has good pictures that can help you identify parts like this.
It also gives reference numbers that are very handy for communicating
with DeLorean parts vendors.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:22:30 -0400
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re:Frame Restoration (color matching the frame)

You really can't go by color match,because each frame has  a different
oxidation factor,(Even stored frames exposed to constant artificial light
will oxidize and turn a different shade of color)(remove a old picure hung
on a wall that has been there for a long time,and you will see,what
oxidation,has done to the rest of the wall,and the wall area behind the pic
is still as orignal) I have seen some frames that have a greenish
color,others a grayish color,but the "true"color of the frame was a lite
blue,as I have at least two Delorean frames that have NOT been exposed to
weathering/ultraviolet light,and are as the factory made them. The
"BEST"matchup for the Delorean frame color that I have found
for the typical "weathered"frame is a SMOKE GRAY made by Rustoleum,that can
be had in either spray can or by the quart to brush on,which can be bought
at any Home Depot Store.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Claude
000570

Why don't you consider using Automotive paint?  Save a paint flake of the
original epoxy and have it color matched.  Then you could post the color
formula on the DML so that other people wouldn't have to pay to have the
color matched next time (provided they use the same kind of paint.)  Or
better yet, just compare your paint flake to samples they have in their
books.  Since you are painting a frame and not a fender, you don't even need
a paint booth.  All you need is a spray gun and a dry source of air to run
it.  But I suppose that if you had this equipment then you wouldn't be
talking about using spray cans...

But if you must use spray paint, I recommend Krylon over Rostoleum.  Maybe
they have a good color match, too.  I highly recommend  preparing a test
piece of metal to make sure that what ever combination of paint you are
using is compatible.  Several times I have mix-matched primers with color
coats and ended up with various problems such as the color coat dissolving
the primer creating a wrinkle finish, or just not sticking to the primer and
flaking off later.  Paint from spray cans can be tricky to work with because
they are generally very slow drying.  This gives the solvents more time to
react and cause an unfavorable reaction.


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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 14:02:19 -0400
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_performconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: toll booth window

John,

I used to have the same problem with my driver side window, and for me the
solution was simple.  Always make sure that your windows are up all of the
way before you close the door.  I know this sounds strange, but it seems
that having the windows down when closing the door causes them to come of
the track.  I took this advice from a posting to this list, and have had no
problems with the windows coming off the track since.  While your inside the
door putting the window back on the track, you might as well spray the track
with some white lithium grease while your at it (this seems to make my
windows open and close much better.

Good luck,
Eric Hennebury
VIN 17065

>Message: 5
>   Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 10:09:05 -0700 (PDT)
>   From: John Yeoman <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Subject: toll booth window
>
>Hey List, I have a problem with my right toll booth
>window.  The front end keeps slipping off the guide.
>The guide doesn't seem to be bent or in any other way
>different from the left one.  I have slippped out
>the window and put it back in about four times, and
>every time I do I run the window up and down about
>100 times to see what makes it slip off.  Then, after
>the 100th time when it doesn't slip off, I put the
>interior
>trim back on and a few hours later when I try the
>window, it slips off the guide the 1st or 2nd time I
>operate
>the window.  Has anyone else had this problem happen
>to their toll booth window, and how did you fix it?
>All help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in
>advance.
>
>John





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