From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 2:17 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 178

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DMC in NC Museum
From: "Louie Golden" <louiegolden_at_dml_mailcity.lycos.com>

2. How to read a vin number
From: cordes_at_dml_pfizer.com

3. Twin Turbo 0-60? I read 5.8 seconds!
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra-- <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

4. Re: Sandblasting Chassis
From: qrorell_at_dml_aol.com

5. low profile rims for Delorean
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: Sandblasting Chassis
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

7. RE: Sandblasting Chassis
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>

8. DeLorean Car Show
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

9. RE: Angle drive lubrication
From: "Travis Graham" <thgraham_at_dml_home.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 17:44:17 -0200
From: "Louie Golden" <louiegolden_at_dml_mailcity.lycos.com>
Subject: Re: DMC in NC Museum

 
--
There is also a DeLorean in another Museum in NC. It is at "Backing Up Classics" in Concord, just off of I-85 next to Lowes Motor Speedway.-Louie
#wannabe

MODERATOR NOTE: Before posting to this thread, I suggest DML subscribers check
                the excellent list of DeLorean-displaying museums published on
                the DOA website:     http://www.delorean-owners.org/
                (click on "Events" then "Museums")
                There is no need to repeat known DeLoreans on the DML, but feel
                free to mention museums that are *not* on the list.  I also
                sugest pointing out any other museums to Ray Haug, DOA Internet
                Director, so he can update the list.


Send your favorite photo with any online greeting!
http://www.whowhere.lycos.com/redirects/americangreetings.rdct



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 20:25:22 -0000
From: cordes_at_dml_pfizer.com
Subject: How to read a vin number

Could someone tell me how to read a vin#.  Mine is:
SCEDT26T7BD006644. 
I'm sure it tells quite a bit.  I notice that alot of people sign off 
with their vin number to identify what they have to others on this 
board.




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 17:12:34 -0500
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra-- <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Twin Turbo 0-60? I read 5.8 seconds!

Where are you guys getting this 4.2 seconds from?  I have the Gold
Portfolio ('95) and the only speeds I could find were stated, "0-60 in
5.8 seconds", "Quarter mile in 14.7 seconds" and "speed of 150mph at
6500 RPM with out the slightest protest".  Could you guys perhaps say
what the article name is that you read the 4.2 data from?  (Dont list
page number, the '93 and '95 versions have different organization!)
-- 
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169



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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 19:50:39 EDT
From: qrorell_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Sandblasting Chassis

Before you get sand blasted I would look into Walnut shell blaster. It holds 
down the heat better and has less of a tendenciei to warp the metal.
Barry
6059



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 22:42:28 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: low profile rims for Delorean

Dan,

I just ordered new rims for my Delorean, and I'm wondering if I got the best
thing.  I want a one-piece aluminum alloy rim.  I first tried to use TSW
Revo, but not many rims are made big enough for the rears that take a 4 bolt
pattern.  It wasn't practical to make an adapter to make 5 bolt rims fit a 4
bolt rotor, so I went with a different style, same brand -- TSW Imola.  I'm
going the same size you are -- 17" rear, 15" front.  And I'm doing Falken
tires.  They are cheaper and the warranty is better than Yokohama.  The
dealer said both brands ride the same.  I didn't consider Pirelli tires.

I would have used Yokohama tries had I of stayed with the OEM rims, since
that is what everyone says is best.

What brand rim are you using?  And how much did you pay, might I ask?  Mine
are costing me a speck over $1900 balanced and out the door.

When I get it all put together, I'll post pictures on Brain's web site.
Sure my Delorean isn't painted, and for that matter neither is yours now.
So we will have to twist Brain's arm and make him expand his site to include
customized Deloreans.  For your car, I think a before and after picture on
his site would be cool.

My rims should be in by the middle of next week, so it is too late for me to
change my order if you have a better idea.  (sigh).  I have a suspension
lowering kit on the way from PJ Grady.  It's gonna look cool!

Walt






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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 03:00:39 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Sandblasting Chassis

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Has anyone had their Chassis Sandblasted to remove the old Epoxy 
> Paint off of it? I want to have the entire chassis stripped down so 

You will get conflicting input on this. 

When I restored mine, I tried just about every method to remove 
epoxy. It easily scrapes off the areas that are rusty. Once scraped, 
sandblasting is fine except that you will find may areas that you 
cannot get the blaster aimed at. Where epoxy is still attached to 
sound metal, it is extremely well-attached. I tried sandblasting (a 
good test piece for all of this is the fuel tank cover). The epoxy is 
rubbery enough that sandblasting had almost NO impact on it. I used Silica sand, walnut shells would be even less effective. 

The best thing I found was to CAREFULLY use a propane torch. When doing this the metal did not get all that hot, you are only trying to soften the epoxy a little, not burn it off.  I only did this to remove stray epoxy in the middle of the rusty areas, and to get  back far enough into clean metal to be sure that I had eliminated the rust. I only did this on areas where I could get to both sides of the metal. If the expoxy was sound I left it there.

There are many boxed in areas where you can't easily get to the back. 
If you use the torch on these you may end up with loose blobs of 
epoxy that you can't get out, and now the metal inside is 
unprotected. Between the front lower control arms, either side and 
below the engine, and along the upper edge of the fuel tank area come 
to mind. 

The method I used in order:
--Remove ALL the detachable parts
--Scraper
--Torch
--Wire wheels
--Laquer Thinner
--Phosphate Etch (Wurths Phospate Etch, Martin Senour(NAPA)Triple 
Etch)
--POR15/Wurths Rustguard (Black)
--Rustoleum (for color)
-----and many swear words all throughout the process. Wear Eye 
protection/respirator etc. Get some books on antique auto 
restoration.   




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 22:06:03 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>
Subject: RE: Sandblasting Chassis

I had mine blasted when I restored the frame.  There were no problems to
report and all seemed to go well.  They couldn't get inside some of the
cavities but many of the cavities were OK and the finished didn't need
removing.

Nick Kemp
Deer Lake Orchard
Host of the Minnesota (and anyone else that is interested) fall get
together.




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 23:13:11 EDT
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show

Well I almost have the cleveland show wrapped up but there is one thing I am 
missing and that is pictures of the Sunday event
Many of you were gracous enough to send me pictures of the event but I did 
not receive one picture from Sunday.  If anyone out there took pictures on 
the boat I would appreciate if you could contact me (Cheryl I know you have 
some)

Also there was not one picture that I saw of the Nasa Center museum (inside 
shot)

Oh well

thanks

 and see you in Memphis the response so far has been great.  
FYI 2002 is the 25th aniverary of the death of Elvis and Graceland is going 
to do a lot to promote Elvis that year.

Ken



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 22:15:56 -0500
From: "Travis Graham" <thgraham_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: RE: Angle drive lubrication

During my 3.5 years of ownership and 20k miles, I've only checked this
twice.  Once when I bought it and once about two years ago.  When I did this
last, I threw in some leftover synthetic gear oil from the supply that I put
in the transmission (Redline MTF).  I haven't seen any problems so far!  I'm
pretty confident in the lubrication - maybe I'll get around to checking it
whenever I pull the wheel off next...

Travis Graham
#6344


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Noeltner [mailto:mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org]
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 9:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Angle drive lubrication

What's the best way to lube the angle drive? I've been following the
original factory service bulletin and filling it with 90w gear oil at each
oil change. It's been fine so far, but I would like to hear opinions on
other methods. Would greasing it with a grease gun be better? Or would that
be too thick and cause extra resistance?




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