From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 8:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 184

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www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Shimmy at 55 - 60 mph
From: "wayne selden" <w.selden_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

2. Priceline.com
From: Shannon Yocom <go88mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Electrical Parts needed
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Re: Colored Deloreans -- not painting per se
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

5. Re: Re: electrical problems relating to fuel pump
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: Bricklin
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>

7. [New Owner Here] Re: delorean pricing, first time driver
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra-- <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

8. Re: Bricklin
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: Tinted film on body panels
From: "TMasterLC_at_dml_msn.com" <tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com>

10. Re: First Place at Car Shows
From: "TMasterLC_at_dml_msn.com" <tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com>

11. Re: Bricklin
From: "yugoman" <mdrig_at_dml_email.msn.com>

12. Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>

13. Re: switching door locks
From: aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: electrical problems relating to fuel pump
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Help! Fuel Pump Noise! And Fuel Smell! Help!
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

17. Re: Re: delorean pricing, first time driver
From: petleech_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: electrical problems relating to fuel pump
From: joelpash_at_dml_yahoo.com

19. Wide black stripe
From: joelpash_at_dml_yahoo.com

20. Re: Electrical Parts needed
From: joelpash_at_dml_yahoo.com

21. First Time Driver...A true story!!
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>

22. Re: Bricklin
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_performconsulting.com>

23. Dennis Gage gave me the High Five last night
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

24. Re: Bricklin
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

25. Door locks
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:11:10 -0700
From: "wayne selden" <w.selden_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Shimmy at 55 - 60 mph

I called up one of the shops that has a four wheel Hunter GSP 9700 wheel
alinement machine listed earlier for Delorean. Although it was a Lexus
dealer, the service manager said that they would aline the Delorean if I had
the specifications, but they did not have shims as Lexus vehicles are
adjustable and do not require shims. For those Delorean owners that had the
four wheel alinement, does it require shims or is it adjustable? The price
is $99.95.

 Wayne Selden
w.selden_at_dml_att.net




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:18:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <go88mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Priceline.com

Tid bit of info for you gasoline users . . .

Priceline.com's name your price for gasoline has the
DeLelorean listed as an option for car type.

So if you shop for cheap gas online you won't be
discriminated against! :-)

Shannon Y
VIN# Not Yet!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/



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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 03:19:20 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Electrical Parts needed

Group, 
Along with any other electrical parts, does anyone have any Motorola 
Alternators laying around. I need some cores to rebuild. Will accept 
in any reasonable condition. I will reimburse freight.
I also need your old fuel pump, lambda units, ECU units, idle speed 
motors, warm up regulators so on . Some of the relay's. RPM, Don't 
throw them away. Email me with what you have cost or trade.

John Hervey 




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 23:10:01 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Colored Deloreans -- not painting per se

Robert,

There is a front fender at the DeLorean Motor Co. Columbus warehouse that has the see through finish you're talking about, it looks very interesting.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Robert Rooney 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 6:36 AM
  Subject: [DML] Re: Colored Deloreans -- not painting per se


  I think in the book "Stainless Steel Illusion" it mentions that 
  DuPont was working on a type of coating to color the SS panels into 
  various colors. But it was supposed to act more like a tint where 
  the panels would be a different color, but you could still see the 
  grain underneath. Not like a paint that would totally cover the SS. 
  The end results were that in humid climates the coating would bubble 
  and peel off. However the book does not mention weather the coating 
  was applied as a film, or sprayed on as a liquid. Nor does it mention 
  weather the tests were performed on a DMC-12, or in a lab.

  It's a good idea though, and it would be interesting to see the 
  results. Maybe one day someone will decide on a new hobbie and pick 
  up where DuPont left off...

  -Robert
  vin 6585





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 23:30:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: electrical problems relating to fuel pump

If you jumped the RPM relay, as you said you did, and you can hear the fuel pump running, that indicates that all is well with the fuel pump. The fuel pump needs at least 9 volts to operate therefore it is unlikely that you have only 4 VDC at the pump. You keep mentioning the main fuel relay; the RPM relay is the main fuel or fuel pump relay.

Once again; repeat the brown to white/purple jump test. The brown wire is 12 volts hot to the battery, therefore you should also see 12 VDC at the white/purple wire.

If the fuel pump runs when the RPM relay is jumped and the car will not start you have a problem other than the fuel pump.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:33:48 -0500
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Re: Bricklin

    Have you ever seen a Bricklin?  DeLorean vs. Bricklin is like the
Marriott vs. a canvas tent.  The Bricklin is not luxurious at all and, from
what I understand, is much less reliable.  If you've ever seen the Bricklin
door design, you'll come running back to the good ol' torsion bars.


Jake

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gabe W." <thecreech_at_dml_home.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Bricklin


(snip)<<What makes the delorean much
> more expenisve? The bricklin performs better and much less of them were
> produced. >>(snip)




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 23:02:02 -0500
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra-- <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: [New Owner Here] Re: delorean pricing, first time driver

I know this topic is turning into a huge thread, but I thought I may
throw my purchase in before it gets cut.  I recently found a DeLorean at
a local dealership, VIN 6960 (anyone know this number?).  But any ways,
I managed to talk the dealer down to 13k from the 16k asking price.  I
have yet to pick it up, (that's for this Thurs. eve.) but from what I've
glanced at it the few times I've seen it, (and driving it), I already
have a quick list of things that are wrong or need replacing.

Coolant bottle - still plastic
Relays - Look original (but not sure) It does have the fan fail bypass
Hazard switch - will only flash right blinker, and only when held in
Lock control module - only locks both doors, with not unlock either one
Pass. side power window - front side sticks when raising
Headliners - all sagging, but not severely
Struts - all 6 are weak, but will still hold when pushed all the way

Considering all of these items except the coolant bottle and relays are
not necessities for the car to run, I think I got a good deal.  The car
has 27k miles on it.  Frame is in excellent shape.  It has all updates
except the throttle shield and relay updates.  It runs excellent, AC
works good.  Fascias are not warped and paint is in nice shape.  I plan
on going through all electrical and the cooling system this winter, and
then wait for things to start failing next spring.  After 3 years of
wanting one, along with the pending research, I believe I am definitely
ready for this.

One more thing for all of those who wonder about insurance, I am 18. 
The DeLorean will be my second car, and full coverage for me is going to
be a little less than $25 a month.  My insurance carrier is American
Family (Minnesota, if it matters), and this will be the 5th car plus
house on my family's plan.  I have no moving violations, and one
non-fault accident on my record.  Email me directly if you would like
more info.

Check out some pictures of my purchase at...
http://www.isd.net/jreeve/delorean/newdmc/
-- 
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 01:31:43 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Bricklin

Gabe,

Before this subject moves off the list I would like to ask Gabe how much research he has done on this subject. I ask this question because I have been involved with the DeLorean, repair, performance, parts and other service related issues since 1986. Through the years have learned that the Bricklin was plagued with a high number of warrantee and customer complaint related problems. 
        
    Yes; the DeLorean dealerships and factory had there share of unscheduled service visits and parts failures, but the vast majority of the repair issues were addressed before the company closed its doors. After the company went belly-up most dealers continued to honor warrantees. As a matter of fact, that concerted effort has been preserved through the years by individuals and companies to provide DeLorean owners, worldwide, with just about the best parts, service, and support network of any limited production car ever made.
    
Thanks for your question
 
DMC Joe

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Gabe W. 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:20 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] Bricklin


  I've been looking at the bricklin market and have found ones advertised as
  perfect mechanically for around 10,000(1975). What makes the delorean much
  more expenisve? The bricklin performs better and much less of them were
  produced. Was it back to the future? Please help with some explanation. Also
  are they any Bricklin/Delorean owners on this list?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 01:55:11 -0500
From: "TMasterLC_at_dml_msn.com" <tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tinted film on body panels

My family owns Tint-Tech, Inc. in the Houston/Baytown area.  To answer your
questions about using two layers of tint film (i.e. limo black-out with
bronze on top)... Yes, it could be done, although the adhesive works best on
glass as recommended by the manufacturer, and black-out is 'rubber tire'
dark (blocks out all but 5% of light transmission)... sooooo dark, that the
bronze wouldn't show at all, it would be too black.

Wax or clear coated?  Could be silicone coated.

Since the car would be exposed to the elements, you could use exterior
quality film with scratch resistant surface and it would probably last 5-10
years depending on exposure... not a bad idea, if your goal is to remove and
change colors every few years anyway.  However, the car could not be
completely 100% covered with film... you'd have to back off 1/4" - 2" away
from all extreme bends and folds on body panels like at gaps between the
panels, or inside door jambs and wraps around bonnet into trunk space, etc.
Heat guns work fine for gradual bows on window glass, but the adhesive
wouldn't last when folded around contours more than 90 degree angles.

Clear hood saver (instead of bug shields) aren't applied over peak-lines in
the hood, it would lift or bubble.  The chrome tape that is used on bottom
panels along the tar zone isn't wrapped around to bumpers, or inside door
jambs either.

Easy to strip?  Yes and no, depends on how it was applied, and whether or
not it's removed with the sweating process or sauna effect.  Once the film
has served it's purpose for protection it can be removed or replaced, and it
is possible to recover right over the previous layer if changing color or
covering damage from road debris provided that the adhesive is still good.

Feel free to e-mail me privately if you were serious about doing this to
your car and want more info about who to contact.  Personally, I think that
stain or paint would look better unless it's a similar gray or silver film
since you would only get 99% coverage.   I understand your reasons for a
temporary 'coat' instead of permanently altering original ss panels, but why
not just repair or replace them instead?

Just my opinion : )

Ron & Cheryl










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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 02:39:05 -0500
From: "TMasterLC_at_dml_msn.com" <tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: First Place at Car Shows

I like trophies too!  I'm just now responding, because I'm back from the
12th annual "Cruise To The Lake" Car Show in Lake Ozark, Missouri.  A 2 day
long car show and police escorted cruise to the strip with almost 500 cars!
You know I hate to brag, but I did better than 1st place... I won a huge
16X24 Mayor Award!!!!

(former 'D' owner/DOA member from California, Richard Purvis was there too:
1st place, custom truck!)

We're building a trophy room soon!!!!  I haven't had the car for a year yet,
but have already accumulated 9 first place, 5 second place, and 2 third
place awards from this summer!  (and it doesn't slow down until October)
Last fall I made it to one car show, drove in one parade, and the DOA Expo
'99 Rallye.  Of course, the Cleveland award meant the most... finally a
class to compete with my own kind!

We're having fun with our new hobby, and will be at DMC Houston next summer
too!  Does the excitement ever wear off? : )

Ron & Cheryl Wester
VIN#:  6322
MO lic.#: BK2-FTR






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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 08:16:07 -0400
From: "yugoman" <mdrig_at_dml_email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Bricklin

Our cars have the opposite problem,my drivers door sags a bit even with new
struts, but my wife's Bricklin never has trouble. The 351 Ford is much
easier to get serviced than the PRV. Even the local Volvo specialists don't
want to work on the D :^(
Bear in mind that Malcolm Bricklin was a rich guy with no automotive
knowledge, so it was a miracle that the cars were even produced in something
like a year and a half from drawing board to production. Like the D, a lot
of updates have been developed  for the Bricklin, and my wife LOVES the
style more than the D. I still think the D is the most beautiful car in the
world :^) Just harder to get worked on than a Bricklin (but mine has been
pretty reliable!).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Bricklin


>     Have you ever seen a Bricklin?  DeLorean vs. Bricklin is like the
> Marriott vs. a canvas tent.  The Bricklin is not luxurious at all and,
from
> what I understand, is much less reliable.  If you've ever seen the
Bricklin
> door design, you'll come running back to the good ol' torsion bars.
>
>
> Jake
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gabe W." <thecreech_at_dml_home.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 9:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Bricklin
>
>
> (snip)<<What makes the delorean much
> > more expenisve? The bricklin performs better and much less of them were
> > produced. >>(snip)
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>






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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 08:55:49 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)

If this only happens in stop and go traffic, then it is possible your
cooling fans are not coming on.

Check the entire fan electrical system, and make sure you have the fan
fail bypass (or Fanzilla) installed.


cburke410_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> 
> I'm a pretty new delorean owner. (about six weeks). well anyways i love the
> car, it's incredible, but i have a question about overheating that i was
> hoping someone could answer. The car has not overheated yet, but in stop and
> go traffic, the thermometer gage comes close to the overheating point. The
<SNIP>



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 08:59:54 EDT
From: aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: switching door locks

My Delorean has an ignition key and a door key.  It took  4 cuts to get a 
functional
key.  I had to buy 10 blanks though.   The keys are cut differently on each 
side.
So you need to match perfectly. 

Dave L.



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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:13:56 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: electrical problems relating to fuel pump

Joel, 
   I think what your talking about is the Main Relay which supplies 
voltage to energize the coil of the RPM relay when the car is being 
started. Then the contacts close on the RPM relay to supply voltage 
to fuel pump like DMC JOE said through the brown to white/purple. If 
you know how, take out the RPM relay, remove the cover and with a 400 
grit emery cloth strip about 1/8" by 2", very lightly Just two or 
three pases of the emery cloth over the contacts will remove any 
electrical corrosion build up which can cause the low voltage problem 
to the pump.
   If all this doesn't work, then again you have a problem somewhere 
else. But there really is no where else.  
   If you need a relay to operate the fuel pump independently of the 
RPM relay, I can fix you one up for that.It's a higher current relay 
cost $15.00 + postage.

John Hervey


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, joelpash_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Placing the jumper between the two wires causes the fuel pump to 
> run.  The car will still not start however when this jumper is 
> connected.  I replaced the main fuel relay and that is not the 
> problem either because the car will still not start.  There is a 
> white and purple wire that goes from the fuel pump to the RPM relay 
> and this is only showing about 4 volts with a volt meter when 
tested 
> between the connection to the RPM relay and the stainless steel on 
> the car.  When I try to start the car it moves up to about 6-7 
> volts.  I am not sure what the significance of this is because I 
> think it should only be 12 volts if the relay closes, but it is 
just 
> an observation.  This did lead me to think however that it is 
> possible that the wire betwen the relay and the fuel pump is 
> damaged.  Evidence supporting this theory would be that it was the 
> only wire I touched when I changed the fuel pump (because I needed 
to 
> disconnect it.)  What doesn't make sense however is that the car 
> started without me touching that wire, and then subsequently died.  
> But it only did this once.
> 
> I am thinking about getting an OHM meter and testing the 
white/purple 
> wire.  What else should I look at now?
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > Joel,
> > 
> > First; replace all of the fuses with the specified rating per the 
> workshop and owners manual.
> > I suspect that you have replaced the fuel pump fuse # 7 with an 
in-
> line type replacement. It is also probable that the previous owner 
> has done some re-wiring in the fuel pump circuit.
> > 
> > You can easily temporarily by-pass the RPM relay and force the 
fuel 
> pump to run by placing a suitable jumper between the brown and 
> white/purple wires at the RPM relay connector. The relay does not 
> have to be installed to conduct this test. 
> > 
> > Try this test and let me know the result. 
> > 
> > "We're here to help you"
> > 
> > DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
> > Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:20:32 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Help! Fuel Pump Noise! And Fuel Smell! Help!


I hope someone can give me a quick answer to my sudden problems!

My DeLorean has just been serviced by my local garage. I purchased the Fuel 
Pump Kit from DMC Houston, because I decided I wanted to service this part 
of my fuel system. And sure enough, some of the hoses were quite rotten 
according to my trusted mechanic.

Previous to this I had also had a little fuel smell inside the car, and the 
fuel pump gave out a irritating noise once in a while.

So with the fuel pump kit ready, I thought everything was going to be ok 
now. What happened was this:

After the fuel pump and hoses was installed my mechanic tested the cooling 
system and let the engine run for about 1 hour (yes, one hour!) to make sure 
EVERYTHING  was ok. The car sounded like new. The coolant system worked 
100%. The car started at once, no problems. No fuel pump noise, no fuel 
smell. Then they gave the car a good wash as to make it presentable to me 
when I came to pick it up.

I saw my DeLorean glistening in the sunlight waiting for me to take her home 
today preparing her for an upcoming car show this weekend. I walked into my 
local garage to fetch my keys. I didn't get them.

There was "something wrong" with the fuel pump they told me.

Turned out that after they had washed the car and drove the car outside, the 
fuel pump had began making a terrible noise all of a sudden(this was a new 
Bosch fuel pump), almost as if it were struggling. Much more louder than my 
older Bosch fuel pump!

My mechanic wanted to let me hear this noise in person. He got into the car 
started it....took about 5 seconds to start it (before it had started at 
once by the turn of the key). The engine ran for about 10 sec. then the 
terrible noise came from the fuel pump and there was also a strong fuel 
smell. The noise could be compared to a loud constant  humming. Very loud. 
Very, very loud. Listen to it for one minute and you would get a headache.

With all this happening I must still tell that the engine ran fine during 
all this. No problems. Engine is 100%. Idles perfect. Runs like new. But 
theres definitely something wrong with the fuel pump.

At that time the clock was 3.00 and the garage about to close. They put the 
car back in and said that they were going to have a look at it tomorrow 
morning.

They also said that they really hadn't a clue to what just had happened. One 
person passing by joked about that it might be the water that did this. Not 
funny.

In any event, my trusted mechanic assured me that they are going to find the 
fault, then correct it cost-free. At the same time he admitted that they 
really didnt have a clue as what to look for since everything worked to 
begin with. I was asked to find out some clues for this. This is what Im 
doing now. We shook hands and he told me that eventually they will find the 
fault and that there must be some logical explanation to all this. My 
problem is that I must have the car ready tomorrow because of the car show.

I have been thinking, are there any parts that might have loosened inside 
the fuel tank? The tank has half of gas in it, yet I have still been 
thinking that maybe the pump sucks in air/gas fumes together with gas????

Did I say that I have a car show to attend on Saturday? Im so afraid that 
this may take some time and that I dont manage to have my DeLorean ready, so 
PLEASE:

If anyone can give me a tip on what this might be  then I can tell my garage 
tomorrow morning so that they don't spend time on something that is not the 
problem. What can have caused this?

Stephen? Warren? James? DMC Joe? Darryl? Rob? Ed? Anyone???
I hope I wont be stuck and not being able to attend the car show...


Please help!
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759
(100% condition except excessive fuel pump noise and strong fuel smell)
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:31:50 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)

> The car has not overheated yet, but in stop and
> go traffic, the thermometer gage comes close to
> the overheating point. The oil and coolant levels
> in the car are fine, and i had the original coolant
> bottle replace w/ a stainless steel one.

If your cooling system is functioning properly, your temp gauge should *never*
get anywhere close to the overheat point, even idling on a hot day with the AC
running.

The most likely cause is related to the cooling fans.  An electrical problem may
be hampering their operation.  Check to be sure they come on when the temp gauge
is somewhere near the first line.  If they do not operate check your fuses,
bypass connection, and the connections on the fans themselves.

If the fans are functioning correctly, then you probably have air in your
system.  It is possible for the system to appear completely full, even though it
contains a lot of air.  Either bleed the system with a pressure tester, install
the auto bleeder (available from DMC Joe as a kit) or both.

If the fans are not functioning correctly, but there are no electrical problems,
then you might STILL have an air in the system.  This happened to me recently
(putting an end to my 5 year coolant experiment).  The DeLorean has two temp
sensors.  It is possible for the sensor on the gauge to be submerged and
registering correctly while the one that controls the fans is dry.  If the fan
control sensor is surrounded by air your fans will never come on.  Again, the
solution would be to bleed the air out of the system.

> I know delorean's have a tendancy to
> overheat b/c of the plastic coolant bottle,
> but as i said, i replaced it.

I hate to spread dangerous rumors, but my personal opinion is that failures of
the plastic coolant bottle (a.k.a. header bottle) are *not* inherent in the
DeLorean design.  I believe that all of the failures you hear about happened
because those particular bottles were defective, or the car overheated.  If a
DeLorean has a plastic bottle that is not defective, and its cooling system is
properly maintained, that plastic bottle should last many years.

You might also have crud in your radiator.  Do you know whether or not the system
has ever been filled with an improper coolant, or negelcted for many years?

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years, original plastic bottle functions daily.




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:01:31 EDT
From: petleech_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: delorean pricing, first time driver

I got my car for $7000 flat out, for about $2000 extra the car runs perfect 
has 1 tiny dent you can only see if you look from the right angle and a 
cracked seat and dash. It had minor frame rust but that has been 
"neutralized" and I use this car as a daily driver and not once have had a 
problem on the road. $9000 for a working DeLorean hasn't emptied my pocket 
completely...yet.



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 14:15:53 -0000
From: joelpash_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: electrical problems relating to fuel pump

The workshop manual calls the Fuel pump relay the RPM relay and it 
calls the lambda relay the main fuel relay sometimes.  So when I said 
main fuel relay, I am referring to the Lambda relay.  I replaced both 
of those relays, and it still does not work.  

You are correct.  When I jump the wires I get 12 volts.  I get 4 when 
the purple/white is not jumped.  

I was fairly certain that the problem was not related to the fuel 
pump, but on of the circuits that feeds the rpm or the lambda relay.  
I have spent several hours checking all wires though and I can't find 
anything.  And to make matters more complicated, it has started a few 
times in between all of my testing.  I am not sure where to look next.

Joel

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> If you jumped the RPM relay, as you said you did, and you can hear 
the fuel pump running, that indicates that all is well with the fuel 
pump. The fuel pump needs at least 9 volts to operate therefore it is 
unlikely that you have only 4 VDC at the pump. You keep mentioning 
the main fuel relay; the RPM relay is the main fuel or fuel pump 
relay.
> 
> Once again; repeat the brown to white/purple jump test. The brown 
wire is 12 volts hot to the battery, therefore you should also see 12 
VDC at the white/purple wire.
> 
> If the fuel pump runs when the RPM relay is jumped and the car will 
not start you have a problem other than the fuel pump.
> 
> "We're here to help you"
> 
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>   
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:07:47 -0000
From: joelpash_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Wide black stripe

DML:

I got a tremendous response to my posting that I had a set of black 
stripes.  Problem is I only have one set and over 10 people want 
them.  Would everyone be interested in still buying them if I got 
them reproduced.  I could take it in to a place that does that and 
see how much it would cost to get an exact replica produced.  This 
would probably be better for everyone anyways because the glue on the 
20 year old stickers gets pretty difficult to work with.  Just email 
and let me know and if I have enough demand, I will see what it will 
cost to get them duplicated and manufactured.

Thanks

joelpash_at_dml_yahoo.com




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:55:46 -0000
From: joelpash_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Electrical Parts needed

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Group, 
> Along with any other electrical parts, does anyone have any 
Motorola 
> Alternators laying around. I need some cores to rebuild. Will 
accept 
> in any reasonable condition. I will reimburse freight.
> I also need your old fuel pump, lambda units, ECU units, idle speed 
> motors, warm up regulators so on . Some of the relay's. RPM, Don't 
> throw them away. Email me with what you have cost or trade.
> 
> John Hervey

I have got an old fuel pump (that is probably working fine) as well 
as two old lambda relays (that may also work) and one RPM relay (That 
may work as well.)

I will trade you some of that for helping me get my car running.

Thanks.




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 08:05:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: First Time Driver...A true story!!

Hi,
  I feel I can adequately comment on an under 10k Delorean. A month ago, I
was looking for a Delorean. I needed a loan and the bank would lend me
$14,000 for a Delorean. OK. So on goes the search. I found an ad in Hemmings
motor news for a "high-mileage" Delorean for the price of $8500. The ad says
very road worthy. Hmmmm, I think--To good to be true. So I contact the
owner. He sends me pictures of a beautiful 1982 stainless, 5 speed. I get a
plane ticket and fly to PA(from IL). Buy the car and drive it 700+ miles
home. The car is still running a month later with a few minor problems.
Marty Mair and I adjusted the valves so it is running a whole lot better
with just #4 valve noise. Go figure, it is a daily driver. The car has
several unique features including: Stainless steel brake/clutch lines,all
electrical upgrades, rear wing/corvette 3rd stop light,alpine stereo
casette/equalizer, floor mats, central radar detection system, wide
"dealer-like" sport stripes. 
  The car has few problems like no A/C, parking brake gone, minor interior
wear, etc. But the frame looks good, obviously ran OK for 1000+ miles since
I've had it. The speedo stopped at 36k and the owner had no idea how many
miles it had. He got it from a bank as colletoral on a failed loan. 
   The moral of this story: IMHO, it is possible to find a good Delorean for
under 10k. I realize my case is rare, but a good and extensive search can
yield results. A high-mileage car isn't necessarily a bad thing, as long as
the car was maintained. :) Find out from the experts(like Marty, Micah,
others on this list) what to look for. Another point: Isn't it kinda funny
all the problems people have with low mileage cars that have been stored for
years, whereas there are some higher mileage cars that run flawlessly.
Hmmmmm, Makes you think, doesn't it?
   I got a heck of a deal, I think. It will cost me maybe 1000 to get
everything fixed(A/C is expensive) but then I will have an awesome D for 10
grand.]
   BTW, b/c the real owner of this car(the guy that put it up for a loan) is
nowhere to be found I have no history on this vehicle. Carfax yields nothing
except the owner I bought it from in PA. The car vin is #10188. It was
originally registered in MA before PA. The owner took real good care of it.
Anyone know who that might be?
 
Nathan E. Green
gzen21_at_dml_excite.com

"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"





_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:37:58 -0400
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_performconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: Bricklin

I hesitated to post this to the list, but since it is a comparison of the Delorean to the Bricklin, I thought it might be appropriate.

I too had considered a Bricklin, but unfortunately I don't fit in them (I'm 6'4").  After seeing several Bricklins, and then checking out my first Delorean, I quickly realized that the Delorean is a much more "finished" car.  I hope I don't upset Bricklin owners by saying that I found the Bricklin to be more like a mediocre quality kit car than a production automobile.  The Bricklin may be faster, but if it's speed you're looking for, just buy an old Trans-am or something.  At the risk of being flamed, I feel the Delorean is a different class of car... it is more exotic and has more interesting technology.  I am quite fond of Bricklins as well, and they certainly hold a place in automotive history, but aside from the gull wing doors, this is an apples to oranges comparison.

Eric
VIN 17065

<snip>
>What makes the delorean much more expenisve? The bricklin performs >better and much less of them were produced. 








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:34:54 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Dennis Gage gave me the High Five last night

Last night the TV Show "My Classic Car" came to the Cleveland suburb of
Solon.  They taped their show at the Cruisin' the Commons Charity Night
sponsored by the Rock-n-Roll Capital Street Machines.  This is an unusual
car show that always takes place on Tuesday evenings, yet attracts 750 cars
per week.

This time there were easily 2 or 3 times that number.  The cruise officially
started at 6:00 PM.  Someone told me that they filled the 750 car parking
lot by 2:00!  Everyone wanted to be on television.

My wife, Patti, had only learned that MCC was coming to town at 3:00 that
afternoon.  We did not have time to grab a camera, but by sheer coincidence
I had just washed the DeLorean.

By the time we got there at 6:00 the line to get in stretched for many
miles.  The entire Solon police force must have been called out to direct
traffic.  I saw one classic overheat in the queue, and many others turn back
in caution.

Our DeLorean kept its cool, idling in the queue, with the AC running, for 45
minutes.  We have a Ducellier alternator.

Finally we got close to the show grounds.  By then the sun was too low for
the crew to shoot any more footage, so we were not filmed.  But Patti and I
did show our DeLorean, and it attracted a lot of attention.  We parked in
the grass a thousand feet away from the main event, right between a GTO and
a new Lotus.

We did get to meet the host of My Classic Car, Dennis Gage.  He is a great
guy.  Surrounded by classic cars, he had a huge smile on his face.  Patti
and I told him we enjoyed MCC, then we told him about JZD's appearance at
Ken Koncelik's recent DeLorean Car Show in Cleveland.  He gave me the 'high
five.'  Later we paraded our DeLorean past Dennis with the doors up.  He
recognized Patti from before, and called to her: "Thanks for watching the
show!."

Thanks to My Classic Car, this charity show was an overwhelming success.
Because this was a charity event, I doubt they had a large budget.  I will
contact the Rock-n-Roll Capital Street Machines and find out what they did
to attract MCC.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years




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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:45:46 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Bricklin

Also, about the Bricklin, the outside looks like one big piece of plastic, 
and it is more boxey than a DeLorean, by far.

If I were you, I would stick with the DeLorean.

John Feldman
VIN 4275



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:35:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Door locks

Hey all,

I recently ventured into my door to track down lock issues-
I'm baffled by what I found for the mechanism for unlocking the door from
the outside...

The door has slots so the lock base won't turn in the door, and it seems to
me that the barrel must be vertical in normal position so that the inside
locking mechanism moves correctly, 90 degrees toward the front or back of
the car (to lock or unlock).

This is the assumption I'm working on... My problem:
The locks fit like a pencil in a hallway.  They don't fit the hole, and the
notches in the lock base line up with the slots in the door only when the
barrel is horizontal.

This leads me to a few possible conclusions:
1. I need to mount the lock differently, so that the notches in the lock
base are not lined up with the slot in the door,
2. I have the wrong lock altogether and some schmoe replaced my locks with
something that doesn't fit,
3. I have the wrong plastic backing to the lock that moves the pushrod in
the door, or
4. I have no idea how this lock is supposed to work..

Can anyone help?

Jim
1537... though the registry thinks it's 1437... OH THANK YOU DMV






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