From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 2:11 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 193

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There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

2. Re: DMC2 Watch
From: "JDL" <jdl_at_dml_interax.com>

3. Re: Warming Up ??
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Good De Lorean Message
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

5. RE: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

6. Re: Power Lock Harness
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

7. Re: Power Lock Harness
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Needle still straight up!
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 18:33:14 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??

You mean that trick still works?? (Pouring Coca-Cola onto rusted bolts to
release them just like "Liquid Wrench", but better.)

Last time I tried it was about 2 formulations back on the Coca-Cola so I'm
surprised it still works. I remember that it had to be the genuine Coke,
not the diet, and definitely not any of the competitors. Having learned the
this trick when removing rusted lug nuts at a young age, I promptly started
drinking Pepsi. I figured if the stuff worked on rust that well, then what
the heck does it do to your stomach?

At 12:41 PM 8/25/00 GMT, you wrote:
>Coca-cola put some right on the rusted screws
>
>ciao,
>dr c.
>



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 10:23:30 -0400
From: "JDL" <jdl_at_dml_interax.com>
Subject: Re: DMC2 Watch

His health appears to be fine...he looks like he is 60, not 75...perhaps he
was even younger when he was the youngest person to head up a division of GM
than they thought!

David Levey
6377

> Hows his health?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JDL" <jdl_at_dml_interax.com>
>
> > Had lunch with John DeLorean today.  To confirm, he is still trying to
come out with another car...




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 00:51:58 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Warming Up ??

James, 
I'll throw in my 2cents worth. As you know the cold start valve 
shoots gas into the system to assist starting, Then the Lambda unit 
send's out a steady pulse for the frequency valve to run the cars 
richer untill the 02 sensor warms up and kicks in. Then the 02 sensor 
tells the frequency valve to back off the gas. Thus a little rougher 
idle at first. If your 02 sensor is older and not coming on as fast 
then you may have a few seconds of richer burning. Try unplugging the 
frequency valve so it won't run so rich and see what happens. 
Something is definitely going on. My 11004 cranks up fine and cold 
even idles ok. If you put a scope on the lambda unit output you will 
see the square wave going to the frequency valve and the duration of 
how long it's open or running. Maby in our 105 degree weather is why 
I'm not having trouble in Dallas, Tx. Cooler weather my be more 
sensitive. Water is normally 7 degrees cooler inside something.
Hope's this helps a little. One other thing, make sure the cold start 
isn't still shooting gas into the system. It's supposed to shoot a 
little gas for a second or two. Then shut off. Maby look at the temp 
switch.
John
11004


 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "James Teston" <orentha_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> In the Owner's Handbook, it says "When the engine is cold, drive 
the 
> car as soon as the engine has started.  Do not warm up the car by 
> allowing it to idle for long periods with the car stationery."  
(it's 
> on page 15)
> 
> Is that right ??  If I don't warm my D up for at least a few  
> minutes, it runs very rough, almost to the point of dying.  But if 
I 
> let it warm up, it runs just fine.
> 
> Is that a typo, or why would it say that ??
> 
> Thanks,
> James Teston #15314




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 01:14:15 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Good De Lorean Message

Hey Group, 
I'm sure you have heard that Texas is in the middle of a drought. 
Dallas is about to break the record of over 60 day's with out rain.. 
Most of Dallas area is on water rashening. Well, last week two other 
car's I drive all the time were in the shop due to heat problems. My 
11004 De Lorean was my only driver that was weathering this drought 
and heat. A well tuned and updated car is great to have. Thanks for 
DMC Houston and all the friends on the DMCNEWS E Groups. I do look 
and listen to other comments being made. I've learned a lot from 
DMCJOE and others in there experiences with the cars.
John In Dallas.
11004





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:14:19 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??

I have doubts about the rust-destroying properties of Coca-Cola.  It has
small amounts phosphoric acid, as some other soft drinks do.  I believe the
acidic action is the result of the carbonation, if I remember my high school
chemistry correctly.  You're better off removing rust with a chemical
designed for the purpose, like "B'LASTER Penatrating Catalyst", manufactured
in Cleveland, OH (and my only door price from Car Show 2000).

When I worked in a restaurant, our soda dispensers had valves that would
click over from an empty syrup container to the next one.  But the supplier
refused to hook up the Diet Pepsi to the valves.  Why?  Because it would eat
the o-rings in about a month.  Sodas are acidic, some more than others.
They may have limited automotive application but I would use them strictly
for refreshment, and Coca-Cola has over a 90% refreshment rate.  :-)


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Noeltner [mailto:mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org]
> Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 6:33 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Cc: ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??
>
>
> You mean that trick still works?? (Pouring Coca-Cola onto rusted bolts to
> release them just like "Liquid Wrench", but better.)




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:34:11 -0400
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Power Lock Harness

Jim,
        I had the same problem.  I was told that Lockzilla would cure the
ails.  However, it's not always the case.  I have a bad solenoid and once
they are out of synch it's anyone's game as to what will happen.  My
driver's side solenoid is toast.  I've since found this out.  I went with
Lockzilla for fear of my car being a brat and locking me out.

        BTW, for anyone interested, I have my original control unit sitting
here looking sad as it's been replaced with Lockzilla.  I know there's got
to be someone out there who would want it.  Drop me a line if you're
interested.

Matthew
VIN #10365
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 4:45 PM
Subject: [DML] Power Lock Harness


> Does anybody have a diagram for the electrical harness for the door
> locks?  My control unit will lock both doors, but will not unlock
> either.  I know this is most likely the control unit itself, but I would
> like to test the solenoids without taking the doors apart, so I need to
> know which wires to jump on the connector from the control unit.
> Thanks.
> --
> Jim Reeve <Ultra>





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 23:26:57 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Power Lock Harness

Jim, 
The housings of the solenoids are ground. Make sure everything is grounded 
good. The wiring diagram doesn't show inside the relay box, but you should 
have a red/slate and a red/pink going to ea solenoid. Hot one way is out and 
other is in.
If anyone has a bad relay box, I would buy one to see how to fix them.
John
11004



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 23:40:57 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Needle still straight up!

Paul, 
By the diagram, The gauge has a green and a green/black wire coming in and 
black is ground. The solid green is hot wire going in to operate the gauge 
and the green/black is the resistance wire signal coming from the sending 
unit. The sending unit also has a black ground, and it's possible with the 
original sending unit that could be where the problem is. The other ground is 
on the other side of the light. The light has a light green/orange wire going 
to it off the sending unit.
I would take it out the sending unit and with a $10.00 ohm meter see if your 
getting a ground internally.

John   



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