From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 11:30 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 194

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: "A DAY IN THE DOORS"
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

3. Re: Electric Window Off Track! Help!
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

4. Re: Angle Drive
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

5. Re: Relay Updates
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: Re: Dentless at last.
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: Power Lock Harness
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: Needle still straight up!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Coolant expansion bottle
From: "Rob van der Veer" <rob.van.der.veer_at_dml_delorean-europe.com>

10. LOWER CONTROL ARM
From: john_jordan_at_dml_ed.gov

11. Another DeLorean on 'My Classic Car'
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

12. Re: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

13. Re: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??
From: "Michael DeLuca" <mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com>

14. burp your car?
From: brownalizat_at_dml_exchange.uams.edu

15. Spring compressor
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Proud New Owner in NJ
From: dmcdelorean2_at_dml_aol.com

17. History Channel DMC Show Re-running Today
From: whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: Coolant expansion bottle
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: Angle Drive
From: thai vu <thaiqvu_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: LOWER CONTROL ARM
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Warming Up ??
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Control Pressure Regulator
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net>

24. Re: Control Pressure Regulator
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

25. Re: the Kruse Auction in Auburn Indiana
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 02:25:10 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)

Joe,

You got me worried about my car now.  When I have the a/c switched off on my
car, the fans only turn on when the thermostat tells it to.  The fans turn
on when the needle is just above the center notch (220 degrees.)  When I am
running the a/c, the fans come on with the compressor, so the engine runs
cooler.  In this case the guage reads midway between the 220 notch and the
one below it.

Is this a problem?

Walt




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 03:02:03 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: "A DAY IN THE DOORS"


I just wanted to tell y'all that Brian and I had a wonderful time Saturday
at Trevor's house.  That was the most Deloreans I have ever seen in one
place.  Yeah, there were 'only' six Ds, but still, that was a lot of cars
for my first show.

I made the trip on the original set of tires, and after sitting for 19 years
they developed permanent flat spots.  Until the tires would warm up, the car
sounded like it was galloping.  And even after the tires warmed up, it was
still a bumpy ride.  The shocks are original and as stiff as steel rods, and
with the car running nose high due to OEM front springs, keeping the car
between the lines at interstate speed was more of an effort than it should
have been.  But I'm not complaining!

The only problems I had were when I tried to leave Trevor's house.  The
engine wouldn't accelerate.  Every attempt I made to step on the pedal would
only make the engine cough and sputter.  After a few minutes, it warmed up
and was fine.  This seems to happen occasionally while it warms up, but I
don't know what causes it.  I think the cause this time was that DMC Joe
left before I did.  If he were still there, the car would have run fine.
Joe: do you have any suggestions on what could cause this?

Before I left the neighborhood, I flicked the brights and all the headlights
went out.  I could barely see anything with just the parking lights leading
the way.  Eventually the lights came back on, and I'm not sure what caused
it.  The only way I could get any lights to work was to pull the blinker
lever toward me.  Holding it in that position made the brights come on, but
latching it forward wouldn't let the brights or the regular lights come on.
I drove back to Trevor's house this way, and by then the engine started
running smoothly and the lights started working again.  My suspicion is that
the Delorean wanted one last look at Trevor's house before we went back to
Tampa.

My mileage round trip was 1070 miles.  I dropped Brian off at his house
which gave him about a half hour to get ready for work.  I don't remember
the time, but it was daylight again before I went to bed.

I look forward to making it to more shows like that in the future.  In time
I'll have the rest of y'all coming to Tampa for a show.

Later,
Walt




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 04:37:13 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Window Off Track! Help!

Stian,

I had a similar problem with my passenger window.  When someone closed the
door from the outside, he pressed his hand on the window while it wasn't all
the way up.  This pushed it off of the front (left) track.

All I had to do to fix it was pry the thing back on it's track.  It was a
little tricky to do because there is so little room.  Before you try this, I
suggest disconnecting the window regulator from the window so you could
manipulate the window easier.

I understand that the position of the track is adjustable, but that may not
be necessary in your case.

Later,
Walt




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 04:50:35 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive

Sean,

Supposedly after you turn your wheel all the way to the right, take the tire
off the car and take the speedometer cable loose from the angle drive, then
the angle drive is supposed to rotate freely on the large nut to which it is
attached.  You turn the angle drive so that the screw on the bottom is now
on top.  Remove the screw and put the oil in this screw hole.

To help things along, pull the plastic cap off of the center hub (this is
exposed when you remove the tire) to expose the cable going to the angle
drive.  Spin this with your fingers while you put the oil in.  It will help
it soak in better.

I oiled my angle drive for the first time a few days ago, and I couldn't
figure out how to turn the angle drive over to get the fill-screw facing up.
DMC Joe tells me that the thing must be seized on there.  I oiled mine by
spraying the screw hole with white lithium grease from a spray can through a
straw.  I could feel the straw hitting the gears as I stuck it in the hole
and turned the cable.

The next time I oil mine, I'm going to hose the thing down with PB Blaster
or Liquid Wrench to see if I can get it to rotate so the screw hole will be
on top.

Hope this helps,

Walt    Tampa, FL




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 04:50:59 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Relay Updates

Jim,

I'm still running on all the original relays on my Delorean with the
exception of the relays which the Fanzilla replace.  I also replaced the a/c
fan breaker and the radiator fan breaker.  The rest of the relays are wimpy,
but still good enough to work reliably in the rest of the car, per se.  The
biggest problems came from making those wimpy relays switch too much
current, but the Fanzilla fixes that.

I suggest ditching your fan fail bypass since it was intended as a temporary
fix until the Delorean engineers could come up with a better solution.  Now
there are two better solutions:

1) Get a relay modification from John Hervy.  I bought one from him, but
never installed it.

2) Get a Fanzilla.  That's what I'm running in my D now, and I like it.  It
is a bit pricey though.

If cost is a concern, then get John Hervy's modification.  If you are after
name brand reliability and/or have a weak alternator, then get the Fanzilla.
In any case, you should at least put the beefiest relay you can in the
socket next to the fan fail bypass.  But do something.  The relay in that
socket is a disaster waiting to happen.

The only other relay I would worry about is the a/c fan blower relay which
operates at the higher speed.  Mine gets a little too hot.

Later,
Walt





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 04:51:05 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Dentless at last.

So who did the great body work?  You never said where you took it.

Thanks,
Walt





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 03:47:12 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Power Lock Harness

Jim,

The door lock circuit diagram is located at M:18:14 of the Workshop Manual. It can also be found at the lower right side of the master wiring diagram.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jim Reeve 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 4:45 PM
  Subject: [DML] Power Lock Harness


  Does anybody have a diagram for the electrical harness for the door
  locks?  My control unit will lock both doors, but will not unlock
  either.  I know this is most likely the control unit itself, but I would
  like to test the solenoids without taking the doors apart, so I need to
  know which wires to jump on the connector from the control unit. 
  Thanks.
  -- 
  Jim Reeve <Ultra>
  '81 DeLorean-#6960
  http://www.dmcultra.com
  AIM-Ultra2169




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 03:58:36 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Needle still straight up!

Paul, 

The black wire is ground (earth) and is part of the front wire harness. This harness is grounded at the top front of the frame extension where the LH horn is attached.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: paulheymeson_at_dml_thefreeinternet.co.uk 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 6:21 PM
  Subject: [DML] Needle still straight up!


  For all who read my last post.
  I have had my dad move the wires to the sender and multiplug with me 
  sitting inside and no different on the gauge.
  So I was wondering as my fuel gauge does start working again then not 
  i.e if you go over a bump in the road,perhaps it's a bad earth?
  Does anyone know which wire of the 3 is the earth and where does it 
  end up?
  If it leads to a bolt on the frame I could clean It up.

  Many Thanks.

  Paul.Vin 741.



  Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
  www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 13:21:12 +0200
From: "Rob van der Veer" <rob.van.der.veer_at_dml_delorean-europe.com>
Subject: Coolant expansion bottle

Hi List,

I'm looking for a replacement coolant expansion bottle (I don't know how you should call it). I know there are aftermarket replacements from stainless steel or other original replacements, but they are way too expensive in my opinion. Does anybody know of a possible replacement used in other cars (Renault or Volvo perhaps)?

Yours,

Rob van der Veer
www.delorean-europe.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 11:53:27 -0000
From: john_jordan_at_dml_ed.gov
Subject: LOWER CONTROL ARM

HELLO GROUP:

I HAVE JUST RECENTLY HAD THE DRIVERS SIDE LOWER CONTROL ARM BREAK!!

LUCKILY IT HAPPENED IN MY GARAGE AND NOT ON THE ROAD--

I NEED TO KNOW IF THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND IF ANYONE OUT THERE 
HAS HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.--IS THERE A MAINT PROCEDURE I WAS NOT AWARE 
OF AND ARE THE PARTS AVAILABLE.

THANKS     DELOR1




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:25:50 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Another DeLorean on 'My Classic Car'

As I posted a few days ago, I met Dennis Gage last Tuesday when he was
taping an edition of My Classic Car in the Cleveland suburbs.  With
renewed enthusiasm I tuned in to his show this week, and wouldn't you
know it, there was a DeLorean!

The segment was about the LeMay Car Collection, claimed to be the
largest of its kind in the world.  At the end of the segment Dennis Gage
and Harold LeMay are strolling through the 2,400 car collection, talking
about Mr. LeMay's plans to build a giant car museum some day.  They walk
right past a beautiful DeLorean, then a Bricklin.  Both cars are visible
to their right (your left), though neither is discussed.

It was episode # 006102, already repeated several times and showing next
on Speedvision November 19 and 25.

- Mike Substelny




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:46:35 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??

Gus Schlachter wrote:

> I have doubts about the rust-destroying properties of Coca-Cola.  [SNIP]
> You're better off removing rust with a chemical designed for the purpose, like
> "B'LASTER Penatrating Catalyst", manufactured in Cleveland, OH (and my only
> door price from Car Show 2000).

I am glad that SOMEONE appreciated that Cleveland made raffle prize.  PB
B'Laster is great stuff for a DeLorean owner.  It is the best penetrating
lubricant I have ever seen for rusted, stuck, or just plain old parts.  I
believe that WD 40 can't touch it for speed and depth of penetration.  It also
protects against and actively displaces water from your wires, and inhibits rust
on anything it touches.

I use PB B'laster all the time, yet one can has lasted me three years and is
still going.

Here is some info from ther Nascart Tech Tips site:
http://www.nascart.com/nitro.htm

PB B'laster is for functional parts, like nuts and gears.  For removing rust
that is strictly cosmetic, I still recommend good old Naval Jelly.

- Mike Substelny




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 13:55:13 -0000
From: "Michael DeLuca" <mdeluca_at_dml_comtechpst.com>
Subject: Re: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ??

I was told that coke has a pH of about 2 thus it is very acidic (but 
then so is your stomach which has Hydrochloric acid in it). The other 
trick that is supposed to work great for loosening rusted bolts is to 
put Hydrogen peroxide on them. I have never tried it but I was told
it works great 
 
Don't forget the Fall Foliage Tour (Oct 20,21,22)! Right now people 
from NY, NJ, PA, CT, RI, MA, NH (and maybe OH, Ken? ) will be 
attending, for more info go to 
http://hometown.aol.com/delorean31/fall.html or contact me privately. 
 
Mike D. 
Vin 3113
NY Lic DLORIANN


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> You mean that trick still works?? (Pouring Coca-Cola onto rusted 
bolts to
> release them just like "Liquid Wrench", but better.)
> 
> Last time I tried it was about 2 formulations back on the Coca-Cola 
so I'm
> surprised it still works. I remember that it had to be the genuine 
Coke,
> not the diet, and definitely not any of the competitors. Having 
learned the
> this trick when removing rusted lug nuts at a young age, I promptly 
started
> drinking Pepsi. I figured if the stuff worked on rust that well, 
then what
> the heck does it do to your stomach?
> 
> At 12:41 PM 8/25/00 GMT, you wrote:
> >Coca-cola put some right on the rusted screws
> >
> >ciao,
> >dr c.
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 13:55:15 -0000
From: brownalizat_at_dml_exchange.uams.edu
Subject: burp your car?

Help! Our 81 Delorean (VIN 7003) has a problem overheating.  We could 
not find a leak in the cooling system so we thought that it was due 
to the cooling fan relay switch (which we replaced) we tested the car 
and it has tried to overheat again, however we are not sure if we got 
all the air out of the cooling system (thought we did) does someone 
have a method of 'burping the car' to get all the air out?  Could not 
find a method on any of the Delorean web sites over the weekend.  
Although, it may be that we got all the air out because we noted that 
even after we thought we got the air out the coolant fluid was not 
moving to the radiator (the water pump and cooling hoses has been 
replaced within the last year) so could it be a bad water pump? Do 
those usually go out? We also tested the thermostat and it was 
working.....comments?

Thanks,

Aliza 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 07:14:45 PDT
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Spring compressor

Group:
I was wondering, anyone who has changed their front coil springs, which 
compressor have you found to work well?  The spring compressor I have is TOO 
big.  It has double hooks on each end will not even come close to getting in 
where it needs to be.  It appears that a compressor may have to go inside on 
these springs.  Any help from someone who has "been there - done that" is 
appreciated.
Thanks
Brian 16584
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
http://profiles.msn.com.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 10:43:24 EDT
From: dmcdelorean2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Proud New Owner in NJ

Hi, I just want to let everyone know that shortly after joing this mailing 
list I bought a 1982 DeLorean Automatic with Grey Interior. Its VIN is 11388, 
and has 26607 original miles. So anyway, this a great car and I just want to 
know if there are any younger DeLorean owners out there? I am 17 years and 
live in Rahway, NJ.

Thanks alot, see ya



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 15:55:20 -0000
From: whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: History Channel DMC Show Re-running Today

I don't know if anyone else has mentioned it yet, but I thought I'd 
de-lurk long enough to say that I just turned to The History Channel 
and found the Delorean episode of the "History's Greatest Blunders" 
series half over.  It is scheduled to be repeating again later today, 
at 4:30pm eastern time.  Good luck to anyone out there who's been 
trying to catch this show, and if you don't read this in time, I'll 
be setting my VCR timer, and you're welcome to a copy of it from me.

Dan Harris - VIN 1662 - 1981 Black Auto




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 11:27:13 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)

Walt,

From your description you have one or two possible problems. The first may be corrected after you install the Overheat Protector. If the engine still runs hot you will need a new cooling fan switch part # 100816G. 

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Walter 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 2:25 AM
  Subject: Re: [DML] Delorean Overheating (almost)


  Joe,

  You got me worried about my car now.  When I have the a/c switched off on my
  car, the fans only turn on when the thermostat tells it to.  The fans turn
  on when the needle is just above the center notch (220 degrees.)  When I am
  running the a/c, the fans come on with the compressor, so the engine runs
  cooler.  In this case the guage reads midway between the 220 notch and the
  one below it.

  Is this a problem?

  Walt





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 11:35:33 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant expansion bottle

Rob,

To the best of our knowledge there is no crossover replacement for the coolant header bottle. We have several used ones on the back shelf, if you are interested in a purchase contact us directly.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rob van der Veer 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 7:21 AM
  Subject: [DML] Coolant expansion bottle


  Hi List,

  I'm looking for a replacement coolant expansion bottle (I don't know how you should call it). I know there are aftermarket replacements from stainless steel or other original replacements, but they are way too expensive in my opinion. Does anybody know of a possible replacement used in other cars (Renault or Volvo perhaps)?

  Yours,

  Rob van der Veer
  www.delorean-europe.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 12:42:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: thai vu <thaiqvu_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive

Don at DMC in Garden Grove, California has a special
tool to oil the angle drive.  It's cost around $10 -
$15.  Don's number is 714-554-6794.
TV
--- Sean Howley <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com> wrote:
> With all of the talk lately about what lubricant to
> use in the angle drive, I was wondering what the
> proper method is for "injecting" the lube into the
> drive.  Any help?
> 
> Sean Howley
> VIN#2345
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 20:25:56 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: LOWER CONTROL ARM


First, good thing that this happened to you in the garage and not on the 
road.

5 questions John...for the benefit of all on this list

1) How many miles on your car ?

2) Was the control arm rusty/damage on it?

3) Do you have cut springs ?

4) Do you know if that area has been dismantled and rebuilt ?

5) What VIN ?

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


>From: john_jordan_at_dml_ed.gov
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>Subject: [DML] LOWER CONTROL ARM
>Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 11:53:27 -0000
>
>HELLO GROUP:
>
>I HAVE JUST RECENTLY HAD THE DRIVERS SIDE LOWER CONTROL ARM BREAK!!
>
>LUCKILY IT HAPPENED IN MY GARAGE AND NOT ON THE ROAD--
>
>I NEED TO KNOW IF THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND IF ANYONE OUT THERE
>HAS HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.--IS THERE A MAINT PROCEDURE I WAS NOT AWARE
>OF AND ARE THE PARTS AVAILABLE.
>
>THANKS     DELOR1
>
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:43:11 GMT
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Warming Up ??

Hello readers, this makes cents, but what about if your delorean is 
turbocharged? I work heavy with saab turbos, and its REALY IMPORTANT to let 
the car warm up 10 seconds at least(when its warm or cool outside) so the 
oil from the engine can get to the turbo brearings, or you fill burn the 
bearings out. So, would this still apply if the engine was turbocharged?
John Giedosh aka Fronzel Neekburm

                         __      __
                           \____/
                           /____\
                           0    0
                          DeLorean

>From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Warming Up ??
>Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 14:31:53 -0400 (EDT)
>
>On Sun, 27 Aug 2000, James Teston wrote:
>
> > In the Owner's Handbook, it says "When the engine is cold, drive the
> > car as soon as the engine has started.  Do not warm up the car by
> > allowing it to idle for long periods with the car stationery."  (it's
> > on page 15)
>
>In 1981 most engines were still carbureted and many DeLorean owners had
>never owned or even driven a fuel-injected car before.  It is common
>practice with a carburetor to let the car warm up for a few minutes before
>you drive it.
>
>This isn't necessary with a fuel injected engine.  Fuel injection systems
>are capable of getting engines to run decently as soon as they are
>started.  (Of course, it is still better for your engine to drive it
>somewhat gently for a few minutes).  Letting them warm up wastes fuel and
>makes emissions worse.
>
>You may have a problem with your cold-start enrichment circuit.  You may
>also need to check your timing and spark plugs (you do not need a new
>oxygen sensor).  Your car should run correctly right away.
>
> > Is that a typo, or why would it say that ??
>
>Well... it should say "stationary" instead of "stationery."  :}
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>


_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
http://profiles.msn.com.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 16:51:06 -0500
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_netusa1.net>
Subject: Control Pressure Regulator

        All,
     
           I noticed today on my car that there is a hose on the control pressure
regulator that is not connected to anything, and from the looks of it it doesn't
look like it has been connected for quite some time. The hose that I'm reffering 
to is on next to the plug/connector. I would assume that this is for a gas line 
connection somewhere but where at? I've had trouble a couple of times with the
car not wanting to start so could this be a probable cause of that also? 

           Also, there was a car show at the chrysler transmission plant in Kokomo
Indiana yesterday and there was a DeLorean there. I didn't make it to the show
but a few people told me about it. They said it was really nice so if the owner is
on this list or someone knows them tell them that they got quite a few good 
compliments on it. 

                             Thanks.................. Jason #5903


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 19:39:56 -0400
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: Control Pressure Regulator

Jason,
There are a total of four hoses attached to the Control Pressure Regulator, two on top
are gas lines and two on bottom are vacuum lines. The top two lines run back to the
fuel distributer, one goes to the top center port and the other goes to the bottom
right side. The two vacuum lines are really just one with a ristrictor valve in
between.

If one of your gas lines is disconnected then this is the reason you will have hard
starting problems. It also may be dangerous. You should repair this quickly.

Dave Sontos
VIN 02573

J Rowe wrote:

>            I noticed today on my car that there is a hose on the control pressure
> regulator that is not connected to anything, and from the looks of it it doesn't
> look like it has been connected for quite some time. The hose that I'm reffering
> to is on next to the plug/connector. I would assume that this is for a gas line
> connection somewhere but where at? I've had trouble a couple of times with the
> car not wanting to start so could this be a probable cause of that also?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 17:07:33 GMT
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: the Kruse Auction in Auburn Indiana

BTW I will be in a booth with gas pumps/memorabilia probably _at_dml_ the NW corner 
of the auction bldg. Drop by, say hi!     Drive Stainless    Robert VIN 6924


>From: aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] the Kruse Auction in Auburn Indiana
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________