Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 2:13 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 195

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There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Single turbo muffler
From: "Dingo" <>

2. Re: comparison
From: "Robert Rooney" <>

3. Mystery noise on shutdown

4. DMC Owner Kindnesses
From: Brian Henderlong <>

5. Re: [New Owner Here] Re: delorean pricing, first time driver
From: "William F. Lane" <>

6. Power Lock Harness -Solved-
From: Jim Reeve <>

7. RE: Power Lock Harness
From: "Gus Schlachter" <>

8. Re: Relay Updates
From: " " <>

9. Re: Control Pressure Regulator
From: " " <>

10. Supercharger for Delorean

11. Re: Warming Up ??
From: William T Wilson <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 20:06:43 -0400
From: "Dingo" <>
Subject: Single turbo muffler

Hello everybody.

    I need some advice.  I have a single BAE turbo.  The exhaust pipe that exits the turbo unit is approx... 3.5 inches in diameter.  This pipe is about 4 inches long and then is reduced to about 2.5 inches and is connected to the muffler and then a similar small diameter tail pipe.  Is this a necessary design?  I think that the exhaust is being choked off.  If I were to eliminate the pipe reduction and get a bigger inlet and outlet muffler, would I get more power?  Or would this not provide enough back pressure and I would lose any low end that I have?  Thanks for your ideas?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 00:17:44 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <>
Subject: Re: comparison

If I have to make a u-turn in the DeLorean, I usually have to 
either go to an intersection with 2 wide lanes, or turn down a side 
stree to back out of a driveway. On the flip side though, I've never 
had a problem with parrelel parking in the D. No the DeLorean isn't 
the fastest car on the block, but it does very good on it's own and 
then some... The biggest problem the DeLorean has with it's speed is 
not it's performance, but the fact that other people keep comparing 
it with more powerful cars. Keep in mind the theory of realitivity on 
this: "A DeLorean's performance can only be measured in relation the 
the car it is competing against. And/or the people drving the car
(s)." In other words, on the drag strip for 0-60 times, the DeLorean 
appears to be a slower car. Now in the real world when the DeLorean 
is in traffic the average vehicles that is goes up against are not 
muscle cars, or powerful exotics. But rather compact imports and 
family sedans built for economy, not speed. The same for all the 
SUV's on the road, they're not built for speed either. Hills are no 
match for my car! I can hit a fairly steep grade and still gain speed 
going up it! In this environment the DeLorean can be quite 
impressive. Plus as I mentioned before alot has to do with the 
perception of the person driving the car(s). If the driver doesn't 
like a car to begin with, then it won't get a good review. And vice-
versa if they prefer one car over another. Yes I like the DeLorean 
more then other cars, so I am gerally more favorable to it, but I am 
staying unbaiased for this posting. To sum everything up: For myself 
the DeLorean is perfect! I have a good amout of power matched with 
equal fuel economy. Not to mention unbeatable looks and outstanding 

vin 6585

--- In, comet6974_at_dml_j... wrote:
> The turning radius of the Delorean is okay. Of the cars we own it is
> around the middle of the bunch. Our truck is awful and needs almost 
> as much as any other car, the smaller cars have much better turning
> radii. The turning radius is not poor, but it is definitely not 
great. I
> know it has been said before but it sounds like it needs to be said
> again, In regards to speed, If you want a fast car go buy a Porsche,
> Corvette, or other sporty car. A Delorean is not slow, but at 9 
> 0-60 and a top speed of 120mph, even our 92 mustang can beat the
> Delorean. 
> Trevor Johnson
> #6974 & 4055
> ________________________________________________________________
> Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
> Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 00:52:59 -0000
Subject: Mystery noise on shutdown

Just got a D, and noticed a strange noise when I shut it down...

It is sort of a pulsing/groaning noise that repeats about 4 times 
before it stops.

Also, my D is really reluctant to start when hot. Thoughts?



Message: 4
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:37:09 -0400
From: Brian Henderlong <>
Subject: DMC Owner Kindnesses

Hello, everyone --

I just wanted to share a public "Thank You" with DMC Joe and the
SouthEastern DeLorean Owners Club for hosting the informal "A Day In The
Doors" door-adjustment party this past Saturday.

As a non- (but hopefully soon-to-be-) owner, I am indebted to these folks
for making it a most enjoyable and informative weekend:  Trevor Summers,
who hosted the party, provided lunch, and gave excellent directions for the
journey back to Tampa (yes, we made it safely!); DMC Joe, who shared his
patience, humor, and vast well of DeLorean knowledge with the group; and
owners Joe Palatinus, Tom Long, Sean Mullins, Bern Heninger, John, Sean,
Greg (sorry, fellas -- didn't catch your last names!), and the other
attendees for the conversation, stories, and experiences.  

But the person to whom I owe the deepest debt of gratitude is fellow Tampa
resident Walter Coe, who generously allowed me to DRIVE his DeLorean
halfway from Tampa to Atlanta on both the "to" and "from" legs of our
journey -- after not having ridden in a car with me as the driver, EVER, no
less!  Talk about trust!  His generosity, along with the 11 or so hours I
spent behind the wheel, has strongly reinforced my desire to own a
DeLorean, and has vastly increased my confidence in the marque and its
owners as a whole.  Thanks again, Walt!

It's incidences like this one which help to create knowledgeable, dedicated
future DeLorean owners.  So remember, the next time you're patiently
answering the same question for the 200th time or suffering the retelling
of the same annoying cocaine joke for the 1,000th time, that the more
misconceptions you can correct and the more positive DMC experiences you
can share with people, the more respected and admired our marque will become.

Thanks again, and keep living the dream,
- Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 22:20:53 -0400
From: "William F. Lane" <>
Subject: Re: [New Owner Here] Re: delorean pricing, first time driver

I am the original owner of vin 3635.

Bill Lane

Fronzel Neekburm wrote:

> >It turns out there are plenty of 18 and under delorean drivers, hmm, I
> >wonder where the old original owners are lurking.


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:18:06 -0500
From: Jim Reeve <>
Subject: Power Lock Harness -Solved-

Well, thanks for everyone's help.  After disconnecting the harness, I
tested the solenoids to find them all in perfect working order!!!  I
opened up the control box, and visual inspection showed no signs of
failure. (IE-relays not stuck, no burned out electrics).  So I hooked
everything back up and it all works just like it should.  Not sure what
happened here, but I think it was just a bad connection on the
lock-sense wire.  One of the suggestions sent to me was the Chrysler
Starter-Relay modification on the DMCNEWS website.  I plan on doing
this, plus adding a little mod of my own.  If any of you have done this
before, I would like to here it.  If not, you heard it from me first! 
Since I plan on sticking with the factory control unit, I still may
develop the problem of the internal relays sticking, which is what locks
you in or out of the car.  I plan on re-wiring the "Lock Doors" light on
the center console, to not illuminate when the doors are simply
unlocked, but to light up whenever the solenoids are getting power.  So
when everything is operating correctly, the light should flash for about
one second, every time you lock or unlock the doors.  If the light stays
illuminated, then the internal relay is stuck, and I need to disconnect
the power before burning out a solenoid.  Since there is also the
possibility of being outside of the car when this happens, so I may also
attach a cut-off switch somewhere outside the car. (hidden, of course). 
But this switch will not unlock the doors, it will simply cut-off the
power to the solenoids.  I would like to hear some comments on this if
any of you are interested in what I'm doing, or if you have done this
before.  Thanks for all of your help.
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:49:31 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <>
Subject: RE: Power Lock Harness


I some posted door lock troubleshooting info a couple of months ago...

Basically, you need to determine if the problem is with the wiring through
the doors, the solenoids/switches, or the lock module.  There's about a 90%
probability that it's the module.

Good luck,

Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Reeve []
> Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 3:45 PM
> Subject: [DML] Power Lock Harness
> Does anybody have a diagram for the electrical harness for the door
> locks?  My control unit will lock both doors, but will not unlock
> either.  I know this is most likely the control unit itself, but I would
> like to test the solenoids without taking the doors apart, so I need to
> know which wires to jump on the connector from the control unit. 
> Thanks.
> -- 
> Jim Reeve <Ultra>


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 03:06:44 -0000
From: " " <>
Subject: Re: Relay Updates

Another "relay" to change is the door lock module. The origional unit 
WILL burn out and if the contacts fuse together you will be locked in 
the car and will be replacing the door lock solenoids as they will 
burn out from the constant current running through them until the 
battery goes dead. If you open the door lock module and look at the 
contacts you would laugh they are so small especially when you 
consider that they have to break a very reactive circuit ie: with the 
solenoids the circuit acts as if there is a lot of "inertia" so the 
contacts have to interrupt a very high current without "flashover" 
which is just another name for the current continuing to flow even 
after the contacts separate. It is this arcing which causes a high 
heat to eventualy weld the contacts together.

David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Jim,
> I'm still running on all the original relays on my Delorean with the
> exception of the relays which the Fanzilla replace.  I also
the a/c


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 03:20:59 -0000
From: " " <>
Subject: Re: Control Pressure Regulator

The hose you refer to is a vent hose. Be sure that it is not kinked
otherwise blocked, it would cause the regulater not to function 
properly causing problems in the fuel system.

David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "J Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_n...> wrote:
>         All,
>            I noticed today on my car that there is a hose on the 
control pressure
> regulator that is not connected to anything, and from the looks of 
it it doesn't
> look like it has been connected for quite some time. The hose that 
I'm reffering 
> to is on next to the plug/connector. I would assume that this is


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 03:21:33 -0000
Subject: Supercharger for Delorean

I found a picture on the net of a supercharged Delorean. Does anyone 
know where a supercharger setup can be bought?
I'd like to know if it's a bolt on or does the engine have to be 



Message: 11
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 00:27:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <>
Subject: Re: Warming Up ??

On Mon, 28 Aug 2000, Fronzel Neekburm wrote:

> Hello readers, this makes cents, but what about if your delorean is
> turbocharged? I work heavy with saab turbos, and its REALY IMPORTANT
> to let the car warm up 10 seconds at least(when its warm or cool
> outside) so the oil from the engine can get to the turbo brearings, or

There is a difference between letting a car idle long enough to reach
operating temperature (like the owner's manual is talking about) and to
let the car idle long enough to get to where it is running properly.  
It's reasonable to let the car idle for 10 seconds when first started,
whether it's turbocharged or not.  2-3 minutes is too much and is what the
owner's manual is warning against.  This sort of thing doesn't affect only
turbo bearings but also many engine parts and it's why I think you should
drive gently at first.

Anyone who backs out of their garage on boost probably has more problems
than the life of their turbo bearings! :}