From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 8:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 196

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Power Lock Harness -Solved-
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

2. Re: DMC2 Watch
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

3. Re: Control Pressure Regulator
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

4. Re: Warming Up ??
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Re: Power Lock Harness -Solved-
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Door locks
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: DMC Owner Kindnesses
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: Power Lock Harness -Solved-
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

9. Re: Supercharger for Delorean
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>

10. lower control arm problems
From: john_jordan_at_dml_ed.gov

11. CONCOURS DMC-and #001 Bricklin FOR SALE
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

12. cold engine acceleration problems
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

13. Re: Mystery noise on shutdown
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Turbocharging a DeLorean
From: "Vin#5462" <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>

15. Antifreeze Info
From: dga7782_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Spring compressor
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

17. Re: cold engine acceleration problems (REALLY LONG!)
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

18. Re: Turbocharging a DeLorean
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

19. Re: lower control arm problems
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: Re: comparison
From: "Gabe W." <thecreech_at_dml_home.com>

21. Re: cold engine acceleration problems
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

22. Re: Spring compressor
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

23. Re: Re: Turbocharging a DeLorean
From: dmcdelorean2_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: Supercharger for Delorean
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Re: Re: comparison
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 00:50:52 -0700
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Power Lock Harness -Solved-

Ummm..I think it'd be ALOT easier, and advisable to just break down and buy
a lock-zilla.  You'll probably not notice the light anyway and end up
burning out the solenoids.  Just my opinion.

--Rob Hook

-----Original Message-----
From: Ji4m Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Date: Monday, August 28, 2000 9:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Power Lock Harness -Solved-

<snip>
>one second, every time you lock or unlock the doors.  If the light stays
>illuminated, then the internal relay is stuck, and I need to disconnect
>the power before burning out a solenoid.  Since there is also the
>possibility of being outside of the car when this happens, so I may also
>attach a cut-off switch somewhere outside the car. (hidden, of course).
<snip>





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 22:48:12 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: DMC2 Watch

>Can anyone supply more information about the "New Delorean" if it
>exists.

I would imagine that if there was more information that was ready for 
public dissemination, it would be released. So long as I have known 
of a future DeLorean product, it's always been "what you see is what 
you get". Everyone is anxious to know more, and these periodic 
releases only whet everyone's appetite further.

(SNIP)

>Also by viewing the source code of the website (deloreantime.com) it
>was produced by someone names "James"....maybe James Espey????
>
>"/CreationDate (D:20000824033458)
>  /Producer (Acrobat Distiller 3.01 for Power Macintosh)
>/Creator (QuarkXPress: LaserWriter 8 8.7) /Author (James)"

What I think you mean is the source code for the PDF file for the 
watch reservation form. I did not design that form, and I had nothing 
to do with the creation of the "deloreantime.com" web site.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 00:32:56 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Control Pressure Regulator

Jason,

The hose in question is an atmospheric vent hose, it "sniffs" the air; its design is to be open on one side.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: J Rowe 
  To: DeLorean News 
  Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 5:51 PM
  Subject: [DML] Control Pressure Regulator


          All,
       
             I noticed today on my car that there is a hose on the control pressure
  regulator 



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 05:35:43 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Warming Up ??

Fronzel, 
Maby what they are referring to is: When the car is idleing the 
microswitch is engaged the idle speed motor is restricting air into 
the intake manifold and the car is running a richer mixture. Then, 
when you accelerate the switch opens cutting ground to the idle motor 
and maby running a leaner mixture. DMCJOE would probably know more 
about this than i would. I have a turbo De Lorean i'm experimenting 
with, but haven't got that deep into it yet.
John


with a li--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> On Mon, 28 Aug 2000, Fronzel Neekburm wrote:
> 
> > Hello readers, this makes cents, but what about if your delorean 
is
> > turbocharged? I work heavy with saab turbos, and its REALY 
IMPORTANT
> 



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 01:46:17 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Power Lock Harness -Solved-

Jim, 
You might try using a thermal circut breaker in line that would trip when the 
current is drawn for to long due to contacts that stick.
John 
 



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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 02:22:07 EDT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door locks

In a message dated 08/24/2000 8:35:34 PM Central Daylight Time, Whalt_at_dml_att.net 
writes:

<< Joe,
 
 As I said, I'm only parroting back what Rob Grady told me.  Chances are, if
 you don't know about this service bulletin, then it probably doesn't exist.
 If this is true, then I was probably told about an instruction sheet which
 was supplied to dealers with the new locksets.  I think Rob referred to a
 template to show the cutting of new slots in the door sheet metal.  So it
 makes sense that it is really just an instruction sheet.
 
 Walt
  >>
 Possibly ST-31-12/81 ?
Ralph
Vin 1606



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 03:41:28 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: DMC Owner Kindnesses

(Blush)




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 06:57:25 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Power Lock Harness -Solved-

> But this switch will not unlock the doors, it will simply cut-off the
> power to the solenoids.  I would like to hear some comments on this

It sounds like an interesting project, but certainly ALOT of work when the
$200 Lockzilla and 2 minute installation solves all the problems. And you
could even still change the "lock doors" light if you wish (neat idea, but
unnecessary with lockzilla.)

-Hank




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 07:52:33 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
Subject: Re: Supercharger for Delorean

Glen and Sons Automotive has the supercharger kit.  It runs about
$5000.  they are located in lake zurich, IL.





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:49:15 -0000
From: john_jordan_at_dml_ed.gov
Subject: lower control arm problems

hello all:

in answer to the posted questions concerning my current problems:

1 i have approx 70,000 miles on the car--new speedometer

2 no rust or damage--car always garaged used as daily driver

3 i have stock springs

4 i had to replace the steering rack recently

currently i am looking for part 105177  lower link--i am not sure 
what other parts i will need

re:
delor1




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:38:40 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: CONCOURS DMC-and #001 Bricklin FOR SALE

Hello,
    I am listing This DeLorean for a friend of myne.  It is the nicest 
DeLorean I have ever seen.  I wanted him to enter it in the Cleveland 
concours show but he couldnt make it.  It is in perfect shape and 100% 
original with perfect fascias,body and interior.  If someone is looking for a 
"PERFECT" DMC-12 this is it.  It has sat in a heated garage with several 
exotic autos, he even put it up on a hydraulic lift in the winter so the 
original tires would be preserved.  Whoever gets this car is getting an 
awesome deal, If I had the funds I would buy the car in a second.  The 
interior even smells new, it was never driven in the rain or snow.
    He also asked if I would put his vin# 001 Bricklin for sale too.  (He 
also has the last Bricklin too, if you would like to buy the pair). Both have 
been stored up on a hydraulic lift since he got them, in carcoons.  This is 
also a perfect car and really should be in a museum.  It was on the Johnny 
carson show back in the 70's.  Original right down to the tires!  please do 
not email me for more information.  call the phone# below.  All 3 cars are 
located in Grand Rapids Michigan.  Please do not call if you are not 
seriously interested in the cars, SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY!,  here is what he told 
me to include in this post.


1981 DELOREAN #2328
4500  ORIGINAL MILES
DOCUMENTATION
I AM 2ND OWNER
5 SPEED
TOTALLY STOCK AND ORIGINAL
HEATED STORAGE
PERFECT INTERIOR(black), BODY AND PAINT
COLD A/C
RUNS DRIVES LOOKS EXCELLENT
$17,500

ALSO HAVE 1974 BRICKLIN VIN #0001 SUNTAN ACRYLIC

2ND OWNER, 13,000 MILES
APPEARED ON THE TONITE SHOW WITH JOHNNY CARSON
ORIGINAL HYDRAULIC DOORS
UNTOUCHED ORIGINAL CAR WITH 360 AMC V-8
A BARGAIN AT $20,000
MICHIGAN-  616-459-8890 DAYS E.S.T.


Thanks list
David
#2496



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:07:41 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: cold engine acceleration problems

I need some help figuring out my engine problems:

The symptom is that while my engine is cold or warm (but not yet fully
warm), it idles okay, but any attempt at acceleration is counter-productive.
The engine coughs and sputters instead of increasing the RPMs.  This doesn't
happen every time I start the car from cold, but it happens often enough to
be very annoying.  I am wondering if this could be due to a bad warm-up
regulator (a/k/a control pressure regulator).  I paid a local mechanic $750
to replace this part a few months ago.  It was $500 for the regulator and
$250 for the labor.

Question 1: Are these symptoms indicative of a bad regulator?

Question 2: Did my local mechanic rip me off for replacing this regulator
before?

Question 3: If the problem is the regulator, is it possible to take it apart
and fix it?  i.e., could it be clogging up with fuel system crud?

Also, I got busy reading the service manual and figured that maybe my
problem was in the cold start circuit.  So I checked the thermo-time switch
(a/k/a temperature switch).  I found that it is permanently stuck in the
cold position no matter how warm the engine gets.

Question 4: Since the cold start circuit is only active while the starter is
engaged and failure of the thermo-time switch could cause flooding, is my
problem a flooded engine?

Question 5: Could flooding of my engine cause it to not accelerate well
until the engine is warmed up?  Or is the warm-up problem caused by
something other than a stuck thermo-time switch?

Question 6: If 12 volts from the starter circuit is applied to the heater in
the thermo-time switch, how long will it take for it to open the circuit?
What I want to know is if these switches are meant to open-circuit before
the starter disengages.  Or does it take continued starting attempts to heat
this switch enough to open the circuit to prevent flooding?

Question 7: Where is the best place to buy a new thermo-time switch?  Do I
get it locally, or should I buy it online?  How much should I pay, and what
part cross-reference should I ask for?

Also, while I was diagnosing the above problems, I noticed that my radiator
fan thermostat (a/k/a cooling fan switch) is dripping coolant.  And it also
sounds like it is out of range.

Question 8: See question 7 only now I'm looking for a different switch.

Question 9: Instead of replacing this switch with the same thing that can
leak, would it be better to plug this bad-engineering fiasco and replace it
with a surface mounted thermostat instead?  And if so, how, who and what is
involved?

Good luck answering these!

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:01:39 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Mystery noise on shutdown

Nick,

Try this test: Access the electrical compartment and while the engine is idling remove fuse # 7 which will shut the engine down. If the noise is eliminated you may have a defective RPM relay.

Your hot start problem may be related to a defective fuel accumulator.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: nbrommer_at_dml_krem.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 8:52 PM
  Subject: [DML] Mystery noise on shutdown


  Just got a D, and noticed a strange noise when I shut it down...

  It is sort of a pulsing/groaning noise that repeats about 4 times 
  before it stops.



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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:27:19 +0100
From: "Vin#5462" <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Turbocharging a DeLorean

Hi all

I have an 81 DeLorean and I love it to bits, the only slight grudge I have
is that it looks sporty, has wheels equal in size to most high performance
cars but is sadly lacking in the speed/acceleration department.
I hear of many people adding turbochargers and super chargers as well as
changing the engines but being an automatic the last thing I want to do is
knacker the gearbox or some other important mechanical component.

If I was to add a turbocharger what kind of price would I be looking at ?
and
how hard are they to install ? is it something your average mechanically
minded
person can do at home with the right tools, or is it a job for the
professional which
is obviously going to add to the cost.

Any help would be most appreciated.

regards

James
England

P.S  my DeLorean web page is now www.dmc12.co.uk

(was www.btinternet.com/~dmc12)








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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 15:27:52 EDT
From: dga7782_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Antifreeze Info

Fellow DMLers:

I saw this article in my Sunday paper and thought I would share it 
considering we've had a lot of posts about antifreeze lately.  Hope you find 
it informative.

"Dear Tom and Ray:

[copyrighted material snipped by moderator, please follow the link]"

http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/2000/August/08.html



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 19:29:08 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Spring compressor

I had the same problem when I was changing my front springs. What I 
did was unthread the double hook (the threaded one) off of the bolt, 
worked the hooks carefully into the widest part of the spring and did 
the same thing with the other double hooks on the compressor. I then 
inserted the bolt through the two hooks and did the other side of the 
spring with the other compressor the same way. 

BE VERY VERY CAREFUL when removing your springs!!! It is very 
dangerous too do. When the springs are compressed, the compressors 
have a tendency to move and the spring can start to buckle. The 
springs can then "Pop" the compressors off and cause SERIOUS injury 
and/or DAMAGE. I would strongly suggest you bring your car to a 
specialist to have them do the Job if it is possible. 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Group:
> I was wondering, anyone who has changed their front coil springs, 
which 
> compressor have you found to work well?  The spring compressor I 
have is TOO 
> big.  It has double hooks on each end will not even come close to 
getting in 
> where it needs to be.  It appears that a compressor may have to go 
inside on 
> these springs.  Any help from someone who has "been there - done 
that" is 
> appreciated.
> Thanks
> Brian 16584
> 
______________________________________________________________________
___
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at 
http://www.hotmail.com.
> 
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
> http://profiles.msn.com.




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:42:59 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: cold engine acceleration problems (REALLY LONG!)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I need some help figuring out my engine problems:
> 
> The symptom is that while my engine is cold or warm (but not yet 
fully
> warm), it idles okay, but any attempt at acceleration is counter-
productive.
> The engine coughs and sputters instead of increasing the RPMs.  
This doesn't
> happen every time I start the car from cold, but it happens often 
enough to
> be very annoying.  I am wondering if this could be due to a bad 
warm-up
> regulator (a/k/a control pressure regulator).  I paid a local 
mechanic $750
> to replace this part a few months ago.  It was $500 for the 
regulator and
> $250 for the labor.
> 
> Question 1: Are these symptoms indicative of a bad regulator?

Depends. How is the acceleration after the engine warms up? I had the 
same problem, but after the engine warmed up it hesitated on it's 
exceleration. This was caused by the LAMBDA being unplugged. Check to 
make sure the frequency valve is buzzing.


> Question 2: Did my local mechanic rip me off for replacing this 
>regulator before?

Hard to say. What method did he use to conclude that the control 
pressure regulator was bad? If you are content with the work he did 
it is worth it, but I think that the prices he charged are very 
steep. The CPR thru DMC Houston is only $357.50, and is something you 
could swap out in around 30 minutes or so. Not difficult at all, you 
don't even have to remove the air box. Ask for the old part back.


> Question 3: If the problem is the regulator, is it possible to take 
>it apart and fix it?  i.e., could it be clogging up with fuel system 
>crud?

Yes on both counts! A clogged control pressure regulator could 
defintely cause these type of symptoms. The cleaning procedure is a 
snap! Details and instructions are located in the Technical Library 
section of the DMC News web site. Just make sure if you do this 
procedure yourself that you use new seals on the fuel line. However 
it should be noted that if the diaphram inside the CPR has gone bad, 
it unit will then need to be replaced. But if your's is new this 
shouldn't be a factor.

 
> Also, I got busy reading the service manual and figured that maybe 
my
> problem was in the cold start circuit.  So I checked the thermo-
time switch
> (a/k/a temperature switch).  I found that it is permanently stuck 
in the
> cold position no matter how warm the engine gets.
> 
> Question 4: Since the cold start circuit is only active while the 
starter is
> engaged and failure of the thermo-time switch could cause flooding, 
is my
> problem a flooded engine?

If the thermotime switch is defective where it constantly activates 
the cold start valve, then you should replace it beyond a doubt! 
However this would probably cause the engine to run fine while 
warming up, but stall a bit when finally warm. After the engine heats 
up, unplug the switch to see if that makes a difference on how the 
motor runs.
However, activation of the cold start circuit is controled by the 
thermo time switch, NOT the start position. The hot start relay is 
what is activated by the start position. The hot start relay should 
NOT be a factor here anyway. Like I said, check to make sure that the 
LAMBDA system is operational.


> Question 5: Could flooding of my engine cause it to not accelerate 
>well until the engine is warmed up?  Or is the warm-up problem 
>caused by something other than a stuck thermo-time switch?

Lack of fuel would cause the engine not to accelerate properly untill 
the engine has warmed up. This would show a symptom of the cold start 
circuit not working at all rather then all the time.


> Question 6: If 12 volts from the starter circuit is applied to the 
>heater in the thermo-time switch, how long will it take for it to 
>open the circuit?
> What I want to know is if these switches are meant to open-circuit 
>before the starter disengages.  Or does it take continued starting 
>attempts to heat this switch enough to open the circuit to prevent 
>flooding?

I don't know off hand how long it takes for the heaters in both the 
control pressure regulator and the thermotime switch, though I think 
they may be mentioned in the workshop manual.
Both of these heaters will recieve power as soon as the key is in 
the "ON" position, or maybe it's when the RPM relay is tripped, can't 
remember... Repeated starting attempts should never be nessisary, the 
engnie should turn over immediatly. The starter has no impact of the 
function of the cold start circuit.

 
> Question 7: Where is the best place to buy a new thermo-time 
>switch?  Do I get it locally, or should I buy it online?  How much 
>should I pay, and what part cross-reference should I ask for?

Just buy it through DMC Houston. Not only are there no worries about 
compatability, but DMC Houston is ALOT cheaper! DMC charges $24.65 
for the thermotime switch. I called a BOSCH supplier in my area and 
they wanted $49.00. A Volvo dealership wanted $160!


> Also, while I was diagnosing the above problems, I noticed that my 
>radiator fan thermostat (a/k/a cooling fan switch) is dripping 
>coolant.  And it also sounds like it is out of range.

How do you mean that it sounds out of range? If the switch is 
defective in turning the fans on, then it will need replacement. But 
since it has a leak it could be allowing air into the system causing 
a overheating problem. It may not be a defective otterstat (switch) 
after all.

> Question 8: See question 7 only now I'm looking for a different 
>switch.

Don't know of any compatible cross-over part for the otterstat.

 
> Question 9: Instead of replacing this switch with the same thing 
>that can leak, would it be better to plug this bad-engineering 
>fiasco and replace it with a surface mounted thermostat instead?  
>And if so, how, who and what is involved?

If you replace the switch you will also need to replace the rubber 
seal that goes in around it. But there is an alternative... No matter 
which style of coolant piping you have (on top or below the pipe), 
the otterstat is held into place by a simple clip. As DMC Joe 
reccomended to me, bailing wire can be used a a temporary 
replacement, but isn't really a fix. The solution: Home Depot sells a 
stainless steel hose clamp which is thin enough to fit between the 
electrical contacts on the otterstat, yet also long enough to wrap 
around the entire pipe. Installed it onto my car, haven't leaked a 
drop since!
I think that someone recently posted about having external-mounted 
otterstats to control the fans. I'd like to know more since they have 
different temps to switch the fans on and off. Even so, the self 
bleeding kit from DMC Joe would be a good investment here that you 
should probably keep at the top of your list to buy next.
> Good luck answering these!
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL

Hope this help a bit. Many thanks to DMC Joe for all the help he has 
given me which was also a source for this posting.

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:53:49 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Turbocharging a DeLorean

I'd start with the free-flow exhasut system for your car first. 
Pictures of it are availible on the DOC website. Since my car will 
hit "Classic Rod" status next year, I'll be able to remove the 
catalytic converter from my car. I'd too would like to install this 
set up on my car as well, but I'm having a hard time contacting the 
company who makes the custom manifolds. Does anyone know how much the 
custom manifolds cost and how long it would take to make them?

-Robert
vin 6585


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Vin#5462" <dmc12_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Hi all
> 
> I have an 81 DeLorean and I love it to bits, the only slight grudge 
I have
> is that it looks sporty, has wheels equal in size to most high 
performance
> cars but is sadly lacking in the speed/acceleration department.
> I hear of many people adding turbochargers and super chargers as 
well as
> changing the engines but being an automatic the last thing I want 
to do is
> knacker the gearbox or some other important mechanical component.
> 
> If I was to add a turbocharger what kind of price would I be 
looking at ?
> and
> how hard are they to install ? is it something your average 
mechanically
> minded
> person can do at home with the right tools, or is it a job for the
> professional which
> is obviously going to add to the cost.
> 
> Any help would be most appreciated.
> 
> regards
> 
> James
> England
> 
> P.S  my DeLorean web page is now www.dmc12.co.uk
> 
> (was www.btinternet.com/~dmc12)




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 16:58:28 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: lower control arm problems

John,

We have 1 new Lower Link part # 105177 in stock. Contact us directly for pricing and shipping information.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: john_jordan_at_dml_ed.gov 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 7:49 AM
  Subject: [DML] lower control arm problems


  hello all:

  i am looking for part 105177  lower link--i am not sure 
  what other parts i will need

  re:
  delor1





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 14:53:28 -0700
From: "Gabe W." <thecreech_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: Re: Re: comparison

(The author appears to be compairing the DeLorean with automotive technology that has been advaced 20 years beyond the it. Consider this when making a comparison...Moderator.)


I don't agree with you on your comparison. Import, muscle and exoctic cars
are not the only cars that perform better than it. Many Sedans can easily
equal it or do better. Basically any other v6 I've seen performs better than
it. And 4s aren't far behind. For instance, the "cheapest car in america",
the Kia Rio has 90 hp while the delorean has 130hp. Thats a difference of 40
hp. That can't be considered a big difference considering other v6s(like a
typical pontiac grand am) run at 170 hp. Also using that grand am again, the
2.4 liter 4 cylinder engine on the grand am gets 150 hp, 20 more than the
delorean. This is why car magazines called the car underpowered(and still
do). The reason that 4s today can outpower the Deloreans 6, is simply
because the Ds 6 isn't updated to the standards the new 4 is, the engine is
20 years old. Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge delorean fan, but I don't like
the car for its performance. After all, every car has its ups and downs.
Besides, you can upgrade your engine(or get a new one)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 5:17 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: comparison


> If I have to make a u-turn in the DeLorean, I usually have to
> either go to an intersection with 2 wide lanes, or turn down a side
> stree to back out of a driveway. On the flip side though, I've never
> had a problem with parrelel parking in the D. No the DeLorean isn't
> the fastest car on the block, but it does very good on it's own and
> then some... The biggest problem the DeLorean has with it's speed is
> not it's performance, but the fact that other people keep comparing
> it with more powerful cars. Keep in mind the theory of realitivity on
> this: "A DeLorean's performance can only be measured in relation the
> the car it is competing against. And/or the people drving the car
> (s)." In other words, on the drag strip for 0-60 times, the DeLorean
> appears to be a slower car. Now in the real world when the DeLorean
> is in traffic the average vehicles that is goes up against are not
> muscle cars, or powerful exotics. But rather compact imports and
> family sedans built for economy, not speed. The same for all the
> SUV's on the road, they're not built for speed either. Hills are no
> match for my car! I can hit a fairly steep grade and still gain speed
> going up it! In this environment the DeLorean can be quite
> impressive. Plus as I mentioned before alot has to do with the
> perception of the person driving the car(s). If the driver doesn't
> like a car to begin with, then it won't get a good review. And vice-
> versa if they prefer one car over another. Yes I like the DeLorean
> more then other cars, so I am gerally more favorable to it, but I am
> staying unbaiased for this posting. To sum everything up: For myself
> the DeLorean is perfect! I have a good amout of power matched with
> equal fuel economy. Not to mention unbeatable looks and outstanding
> comfort!
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, comet6974_at_dml_j... wrote:
> > The turning radius of the Delorean is okay. Of the cars we own it is
> > around the middle of the bunch. Our truck is awful and needs almost
> twice
> > as much as any other car, the smaller cars have much better turning
> > radii. The turning radius is not poor, but it is definitely not
> great. I
> > know it has been said before but it sounds like it needs to be said
> > again, In regards to speed, If you want a fast car go buy a Porsche,
> > Corvette, or other sporty car. A Delorean is not slow, but at 9
> seconds
> > 0-60 and a top speed of 120mph, even our 92 mustang can beat the
> > Delorean.
> >
> > Trevor Johnson
> > #6974 & 4055
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
> > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
> > Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
> > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 17:39:54 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: cold engine acceleration problems

Walt,

Your problem is more that likely related to a problem in the  acceleration enrichment circuit. This is a very common problem in the CIS fuel injection system.

Here are answers to your questions.
Question 1: Are these symptoms indicative of a bad regulator?

A: It's possible but much less likely than an acceleration enrichment problem.

Question 2: Did my local mechanic rip me off for replacing this regulator
before?

A: Could be: but more than likely they may have mis-diagnosed the problem.

Question 3: If the problem is the regulator, is it possible to take it apart
and fix it?  i.e., could it be clogging up with fuel system crud?

A: Unlikely.

Question 4: Since the cold start circuit is only active while the starter is
engaged and failure of the thermo-time switch could cause flooding, is my
problem a flooded engine?

A: No; the cold start valve effects cold starting, not cold running. 

Question 5: Could flooding of my engine cause it to not accelerate well
until the engine is warmed up?  Or is the warm-up problem caused by
something other than a stuck thermo-time switch?

A: Answer at the opening of this post.

Question 6: If 12 volts from the starter circuit is applied to the heater in
the thermo-time switch, how long will it take for it to open the circuit?
What I want to know is if these switches are meant to open-circuit before
the starter disengages.  Or does it take continued starting attempts to heat
this switch enough to open the circuit to prevent flooding?

A: The time varies between 0 and 18 seconds depending on the engine water temperature.

Question 7: Where is the best place to buy a new thermo-time switch?  Do I
get it locally, or should I buy it online?  How much should I pay, and what
part cross-reference should I ask for?

A: The time-temperature switch is part # 102125 priced at 24.65. You can order this item from our On-Line-Store or your favorite DeLorean parts dealer. This is a Bosch item which normally sells for around 30.00 from other sources.

Question 8: See question 7 only now I'm looking for a different switch.

A: The cooling fan switch is part # 100816G and is priced at 43.63. I don't agree with your statement "this bad-engineering fiasco". This part operates exactly the same as in many other cars. We have found no unusual problems with this section of the cooling fan electrical system. When replacing this switch be sure to also replace the seal to prevent further leaking.


"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Walter 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 11:07 AM
  Subject: [DML] cold engine acceleration problems


  I need some help figuring out my engine problems:

  The symptom is that while my engine is cold or warm (but not yet fully
  warm), it idles okay, but any attempt at acceleration is counter-productive.
  The engine coughs and sputters instead of increasing the RPMs.  This doesn't
  happen every time I start the car from cold, but it happens often enough to
  be very annoying.  I am wondering if this could be due to a bad warm-up
  regulator (a/k/a control pressure regulator).  I paid a local mechanic $750
  to replace this part a few months ago.  It was $500 for the regulator and
  $250 for the labor.

  Question 1: Are these symptoms indicative of a bad regulator?

  Question 2: Did my local mechanic rip me off for replacing this regulator
  before?

  Question 3: If the problem is the regulator, is it possible to take it apart
  and fix it?  i.e., could it be clogging up with fuel system crud?

  Also, I got busy reading the service manual and figured that maybe my
  problem was in the cold start circuit.  So I checked the thermo-time switch
  (a/k/a temperature switch).  I found that it is permanently stuck in the
  cold position no matter how warm the engine gets.

  Question 4: Since the cold start circuit is only active while the starter is
  engaged and failure of the thermo-time switch could cause flooding, is my
  problem a flooded engine?

  Question 5: Could flooding of my engine cause it to not accelerate well
  until the engine is warmed up?  Or is the warm-up problem caused by
  something other than a stuck thermo-time switch?

  Question 6: If 12 volts from the starter circuit is applied to the heater in
  the thermo-time switch, how long will it take for it to open the circuit?
  What I want to know is if these switches are meant to open-circuit before
  the starter disengages.  Or does it take continued starting attempts to heat
  this switch enough to open the circuit to prevent flooding?

  Question 7: Where is the best place to buy a new thermo-time switch?  Do I
  get it locally, or should I buy it online?  How much should I pay, and what
  part cross-reference should I ask for?

  Also, while I was diagnosing the above problems, I noticed that my radiator
  fan thermostat (a/k/a cooling fan switch) is dripping coolant.  And it also
  sounds like it is out of range.

  Question 8: See question 7 only now I'm looking for a different switch.

  Question 9: Instead of replacing this switch with the same thing that can
  leak, would it be better to plug this bad-engineering fiasco and replace it
  with a surface mounted thermostat instead?  And if so, how, who and what is
  involved?

  Good luck answering these!

  Walt    Tampa, FL






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 22:14:40 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Spring compressor

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Group:
> I was wondering, anyone who has changed their front coil springs, 
which 
> compressor have you found to work well?  > Brian 16584
> 

I use a standard McPherson Strut spring compressor. It takes a little 
maneuvering to get in in there, in the front it goes in upside down. 
Not sure about the rear. Absolute best is a Snap-On clamp-type 
compressor, only problem is that it costs a fortune. 

Dave Swingle 
5429




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:21:36 EDT
From: dmcdelorean2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Turbocharging a DeLorean

Would it be stupid to Turbo charge an automatic PRV? I'd love to hear 
everyone's opinion on this.

-Chris
VIN 11388



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 22:24:38 GMT
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Supercharger for Delorean

Does that shop have a web site?
John Giedosh aka fronzel Neekburm

                         __      __
                           \____/
                           /____\
                           0    0
                          DeLorean

>From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Supercharger for Delorean
>Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 07:52:33 -0500
>
>Glen and Sons Automotive has the supercharger kit.  It runs about
>$5000.  they are located in lake zurich, IL.
>
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>


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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:40:33 EDT
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: comparison

You should talk to Steve Wynne at DMC in Houston as he has hot-rodded the 
engine to 197 hp without undue stresses and reliability concerns...just good 
old hot rodding techniques.  6894 is getting picked up in a week or two to be 
totally redone and get lowered and the hp bump.  I'll have it back by 
December so I'll let y'all know!  She currently has 9,400 miles on her and I 
have had her since new.  I'd steer clear of the turbos and superchargers as 
this engine was not designed for those stresses.  Being an engineer, I've 
seen lots of failed metal components and I'd prefer one not be my DMC-12.  : )

New England Fred
6894



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