From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 7:06 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 206

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Climate Control Problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: WAS Comparison-0-60 times
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

3. Re: Fw: Speedometer cable
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

4. Florida Delorean Group
From: "E. Randell Stribling" <estribl1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

5. Re: DeLorean Safety Vehicle
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Need headlight switch fix
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

7. DeLorean in the Twin Cities?
From: "juli maclean" <zorrophonic_at_dml_thejuxtaposed.com>

8. Re: Re: Fuel Filter Woes!!
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>

9. Re: exhaust manifold
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: Cruise Control
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

11. Re: Re: Permanent solution for engine cover hinge rust
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

12. Re: Fw: Speedometer cable
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

13. Re: Idle problems with A/C on
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: exhaust manifold
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

15. Car will not start
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

16. Oil Pan Gasket
From: Willie Mack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

17. Re: Need headlight switch fix
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: Car will not start
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

19. Re: Motor mount / crank case
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Florida Delorean Group
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

21. Re: DeLorean in the Twin Cities?
From: brian_roy_at_dml_excite.com

22. Re: Need headlight switch fix
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

23. Re: dmc2 watch a good investment?
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel_at_dml_minalco.com>

24. Starting Problem solved
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

25. Shift knob and other accessories
From: "Chris C" <petleech_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:02:21 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Climate Control Problem

John,
 
The blower would only blow in the wrong direction if you recently replaced it with a non DeLorean blower. To determine if you have a vacuum or mode switch problem do the following test.

Start the engine with the doors closed and the blower fan set to (1) rotate the mode switch through all of its positions. You should hear the various air deflector doors inside the AC unit opening and closing as you switch different modes. If no motion is heard you either have a defective mode switch or no vacuum feeding the switch.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: John Yeoman 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 1:50 PM
  Subject: [DML] Climate Control Problem


  Hey List, I have a problem with not just the a/c, but
  the heater and the vent, and every other selection on
  the mode switch.  I have no air coming out any of my
  vents on any fan speeds.  I do however have air coming
  out from somewhere under the dash, and I hear the
  blower come on and change speeds when I turn the fan
  speed switch.  The air that is coming out from under
  the dash changes temperature when I go from heater to
  a/c, and I replaced the mode switch a few years ago
  because when I would turn to heat I'd get a/c, and
  vice wersa, so I'd guess this is not caused by a
  defective mode switch.  Am I correct?  Would this be
  most likely caused by a blower blowing the wrong
  direction?  Thanks in advance.

  John Yeoman

  With a/c, but not in the right place :)



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:12:02 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: WAS Comparison-0-60 times

If your idle hunts continuously you probably have a problem in the Lambda or acceleration enrichment circuit.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: petleech_at_dml_aol.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 9:01 AM
  Subject: Re: [DML] WAS Comparison-0-60 times


  My car does seem a bit on the slow side, not because its a DeLorean but 
  because their's probably something wrong i.e. acceleration enrichment 
  circuit. Timing my 0-60 times the fastest I hvae gone seems to be around 10 
  seconds. I am getting extremely good gas mileage and the car runs well except 
  for the fact the idle always hunts. I have a few questions- What are other 
  owners with Manual Transmissions getting their car from 0-60 in? Also what 
  could cause the idle to hunt so badly, it is intermittent and has no pattern 
  to it. If the car warms up it makes no difference?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 23:27:39 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: Speedometer cable

I've thought seriously about making a digital speedometer for the Delorean
from scratch.  I thought about it off and on for a few hours and finally
figured that it wasn't worth the trouble.

What I wanted to accomplish was to eliminate the angle-drive and come
directly off of the center hub with a 'squirrel cage' optical cylinder.
Shine an infra-red LED & pickup through the cylinder and count the pulses.
I originally got this idea as a replacement fix for broken angle-drives.
The guts of the speedometer gauge would be replaced with a galvanometer and
then work like many modern cars.  From the outside, everything would look
original and also be maintenance free.

That would accomplish what I want except for running an odometer.  Without a
mechanical connection from the front wheel, there is no way other than a
servo-motor to run the odometer.  And I figured that a servo-motor would by
far worse than any angle-drive!

Back to the drawing board....

Then I thought about going entirely digital with the odometer.  It could
extend the main odometer out to another digit to count miles by the 100K's,
and then have two trip odometers -- one for trips and one for oil change
reminders... and oh, yeah! -- another one for Lambda sensor maintenance.
All adjustments could be made through the OEM trip-reset knob.  But then
that's probably getting too fancy.

I started thinking about how to build the logic circuits.... that would
require non-volatile RAM.  I wouldn't want the car to forget how many miles
it had on it only because a watch battery went bad.

Then I thought about adapting something out of another car.  I've seen
plenty of Fords with digital LCD odometers.  But manufactures like to keep
the workings of those things mysterious to stop people from trying to roll
the mileage backwards.  But on all counts, I think this is the way to go --
either to make something work from another car or to build something very
similar.  Ideally 'we' could produce a replacement speedometer 'drop-in'.
It would replace the angle-drive with a 'solid state' unit.  It would
replace the speedometer cable with a wire, and the gauge would look
identical except for maybe a higher full-scale reading.  An LCD or LED
odometer could be put in the little window where the OEM mechanical ones
used to be.  As a high-tech extra touch, a larger 3 digit display could be
put somewhere on the speedometer face to show MPH in addition to the analog
display.

Then I thought the best solution would be to replace the whole binnacle
instrument cluster with a cut down lap-top computer LCD display.  Then you
could change your gauge layout at the click of a mouse.  I figure there is
enough room on the console to keep a mouse-pad, but then how do I stop it
from moving around when I turn corners?  Maybe a track-ball would work
better.  I could run it all off a lap-top computer with a TV tuner card
installed.  Then I could turn part of my dash into a mini-TV set.  Is there
any way to get motorized rabbit ears to pop out of the driver's side air
scoop?  Imagine!  A Delorean based on Microsoft Windows!  What a disaster!

Ah, my mechanical speedometer doesn't seem that bad now.  I kind of smile
when I see it pulse and fluctuate between 10 and 15 MPH.  If I built and
debugged a digital dash for my Delorean, I probably wouldn't get anything
else done in my lifetime.  It would probably be just as well to make
mechanical angle-drives from scratch.

Now back to designing those dies to stamp out new stainless hoods!
Tolerance on those things are so tricky.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 22:36:54 -0400
From: "E. Randell Stribling" <estribl1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Florida Delorean Group

Good Evening Delorean Owners and Enthusiasts.

A small group of us in Florida would like to consider starting (restarting)
a Florida DeLorean enthusiasts group.  We have been discussing the ideas of
formal versus informal organization and would like some input from the
group.  We are obviously a little envious of the DeLorean activites going on
in other parts of the country and would like to try our hand at having an
event in Florida in the near future.  Thanks in advance for your advice and
interest.

We are putting together an email list for our group just to notify others
about any upcoming events.  If you would like to be included please email me
privately.  estribl1"at"tampabay.rr.com.  For replies please note the "at"
should be replaced with an _at_dml_ sign as per moderators requests.

Randy Stribling, Tampa, Florida
vin 3228




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 04:02:35 GMT
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Safety Vehicle

Hi DML, I found this picture, I don't remember where I found it, maybe on a 
DML member web page, or something. It what apears to have two rim types, and 
it seems squeeze between the first prototype, and second. And If you look at 
the tiny black and white picture, the gas flap is on the front left fender, 
on the back of the front fender to be exzact.

When I first saw this picture, I woundered about the grill elmblum, and the 
other B/W picture clears that up. What langwage is the b/w picture typed in? 
I wounder if any blueprints for any unqine parts for the DSV is in the DMC 
Houstion warehouse, ohio warehouse, or in the hands of private owners...

http://zuckuss85.tripod.com/specialrims.jpg
John Gieodsh aka Fronzel Neekburm
                         __      __
                           \____/
                           /____\
                           0    0
                          DeLorean

>From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>Subject: [DML] DeLorean Safety  Vehicle
>Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 00:04:57 -0400
>
>Hello, all --
>
>Found this website about the "DeLorean Safety Vehicle" while surfing
>tonight...
>
>http://www.t.kth.se/t98_emm/fart/dsv.htm
>
>Stian, is this something you can translate for us?
>
>- Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL
>- Visit my Painted DeLoreans website:
>- http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>



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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 03:10:42 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Need headlight switch fix

The headlight switch on my Delorean is getting progressively less reliable
with age.  Before the car had 10K miles on it, the switch started giving
problems.  I understand that Delorean headlight switches are another typical
weak-spot in these cars and replacing them with an OEM part is a temporary
fix at best since headlight switches have a high failure rate.

The switch just doesn't want to latch when I press it.  Sometimes tapping it
real fast helps it stick, but with practice the switch is learning
techniques around my stealth fingers again.

I've heard rumor that the headlight switch off of a certain model Audi is
the same thing or better.  Is this true, and can anyone give me details
about it?

And otherwise, what is the best fix for a headlight switch?  I've seen (and
I forget who's car it was) a headlight switch re-wired sticking out of the
bottom of the center console.  It was a reversible modification that
bypassed the bad dash switch.  Well this is a good idea, but  I'd kind of
like to fix it right the first time if that's possible.

I also remember talking to someone about trying to disassemble a switch and
repairing it (I think it was the same guy as mentioned above) but he said he
tried that and failed.

I'm not eager about rebuilding my switch unless I know I can put it back
together in the same day.  And I know myself too well... once apart, it will
probably stay apart until I die of old age and someone else buys the car
from my estate.

So who's got the best fix?

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 06:02:18 -0000
From: "juli maclean" <zorrophonic_at_dml_thejuxtaposed.com>
Subject: DeLorean in the Twin Cities?

Greetings,

Are there any DeLorean owners in the Minneapolis area who wouldn't
mind allowing me to shoot a couple rolls of film of your car for a
side project I am creating? I would have contacted a neighbourhood 
classic car dealership to photoshoot the one they had. Unfortunately, 
it was sold some time ago.

As payment--since no money is being made from this--I will be happy
to supply you with a copy of the finished piece.

Cheers,
juli goins-maclean





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 05:42:04 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Filter Woes!!

Robert-


Sounds like a horror story I encountered.  My car started cutting out on me
when going around sharp curves.  I thought I had air somewhere in the lines,
so I pulled out the fuel pump to discover: NO BAFFLE!! Even worse, instead
of the hose assemblies running to and from the fuel pump, the fuel return
hose just hung down in the tank, and the pickup hose was nonexistant.  What
was there was a piece of copper tubing, clamped onto the fuel pump with a
piece of fuel hose, and instead of the pickup screen (this is the funny
part) a mantle from a kerosene lantern!!!  And I wondered why I had fuel
problems.....


Scott
16738




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 22:53:10 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold

Willie,

Your inspection attendant is correct.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Willie Mack 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 10:53 PM
  Subject: [DML] exhaust manifold



  I recently bought a Delorean, and the state of virginia is requiring me to
  get an emissions test.  When i took it in to get tested the attendent said i
  had a cracked exhaust manifold.  But when i took it in to have the manifold
  looked at they told me it was the head gasket.   Does any of this sound
  right?
  Thanks
    Willie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 22:57:08 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Cruise Control

Richard,

Any good quality cruise control can be installed in your DeLorean.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Richard Petrie 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 6:53 PM
  Subject: [DML] Cruise Control


  Hi Everyone,

  As it is little mentioned on the list here (at least from what I can
  remember) the D does not come with cruise control. Is it hard to have
  installed ( can you trust the aftermarket type) or is it NOT recommended??


  Thanks!
  Richard



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 23:23:44 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Permanent solution for engine cover hinge rust

Gary,

,

We have several new hinges in stock, contact us directly for pricing.

"We're here to help you"

De Lorean Services / <delorean_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: http://store.yahoo.com/dsvstore/index.html
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 1:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Permanent solution for engine cover hinge rust


  Rob Grady doesnt sell the hinges.  If you call any of the parts suppliers 
  they will say they are out of stock.  If someone sells them please let us 
  know.  I replaced mine from a used one I repainted.  The only place you can 
  get them is off a parts car.  Of course Rob probably has a couple in his 
  inventory as most all suppliers do from parts cars or maybe NOS, but in time 
  this will certainly be an item that will need to be remanufactured.

  Gary Gore
  Activities Director
  DeLorean Mid Atlantic
  VIN 3360




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 14:56:25 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Speedometer cable

If you seriously wanted to do this, I would not recommend using an 
infrared led and pickup to count the pulses. If any dirt or dust gets 
onto the optic of either the sending LED or receiving, it will stop 
working. Since it's in/near the wheel, there is ALOT of brake dust 
that accumulates there that can easily get onto the optics. I would 
suggest using a magnetic sensor (similar to the ones used for anti-
lock brake sensors) to count the pulses. You would have to make a 
collar that would have splines on it. As the collar would turn, the 
splines on the collar will rotate passed the magnetic sensor, it will 
generate the required pulses. You could probably get away with going 
to a junk yard, getting the splined collar and magnetic sensor off of 
a car with antilock brakes, and engineer a circuit around that.

IMHO I don't think it would even be worth it since the cost of 
building this along with a digital dash would far exceed the cost of 
a replacement speedo cable. But then again if you wanted to be 
different then I would go with the magnetic sensor.


>snip< 

> What I wanted to accomplish was to eliminate the angle-drive and 
come
> directly off of the center hub with a 'squirrel cage' optical 
cylinder.
> Shine an infra-red LED & pickup through the cylinder and count the 
pulses.
> I originally got this idea as a replacement fix for broken angle-
drives.
> The guts of the speedometer gauge would be replaced with a 
galvanometer and
> then work like many modern cars.  From the outside, everything 
would look
> original and also be maintenance free.

>snip<




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 15:46:56 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle problems with A/C on

Here are some simple things to check first with an idle problem:
Check that the idle switch is correctly adjusted and then watch with 
an ohmmeter to be sure that it is indeed functioning
Check for power to the idle circuit
Visually check all hoses and wiring connections, look for
disconnected 
or loose hoses, plug and unplug the wiring looking for corroded 
connections and be aware that sometimes a wire clip backs out of a 
plug so it is still in there but when connected is not making
contact, 
also make sure that the contacts aren't green (corroded). Finally go 
to the idle computer and check all of the wiring point to point, the 
computer itself doesn't have a high failure rate, it is usually a 
failure of other components in the circuit. Last thing to check are 
the 3 screws in the air induction, 1 is an idle speed and 2 are 
mixture. In this application they are not used but someone may have 
turned them. Just LIGHTLY turn them all clockwise untill they are 
seated. If you have to touch them ie: they were adjusted previosly 
then you may have to readjust the mixture screw in the fuel 
distributer. By the way make sure that there is some kind of plug 
blocking the access hole to the mixture screw or you will never get
it 
to idle right. More likly than a bad idle computer would be a 
defective idle speed motor.

David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Michael, 
> The ECU unit or the idle speed motor is most likley not working 
> properly, have you checked to make sure there is no vaccum leak. If 
> you need to borrow an ECU unit to test, i can loan you one.
> John
> 
> 
> or the Idle speed motor --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "DMC Joe" 
> <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > Michael,
> >  
> > Your stalling problem is a result of a malfunctioning Idle Speed 
> Circuit.
> > 
> > "We're here to help you"
> > 
> > DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
> > Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
> >   
> >   ----- Original Message ----- 
> >   From: Michael R Dixon 
> >   To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
> >   Sent: Friday, September 01, 2000 11:20 AM
> >   Subject: [DML] Idle problems with A/C on
> > 
> > 
> >   When at idle with my A/C on the RPMs are so low that many times 
> my D stalls.  I put on a new 140 Amp. alternator but the same thing 
> happens.  Any suggestions on what might be my problem?
> >   --
> >   Michael R. Dixon
> >   The Investment Center
> >   Securities Offered Through Harbour Investments Inc.
> >   One Odana Ct.
> >   Madison, WI. 53719
> >   (608) 274-7744
> >   Securties Licensed in OK. CO.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 16:16:50 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold

I respectfully disagree with this one. A blown head gasket will have 
a lot more problems than noisy exhaust. I'd vote for a bad exhaust-
manifold-to-head gasket. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Willie,
> 
> Your inspection attendant is correct.
>   
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Willie Mack 
>   To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
>   Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 10:53 PM
>   Subject: [DML] exhaust manifold

When i took it in to get tested the attendent said i
>   had a cracked exhaust manifold.  But when i took it in to have 
the manifold
>   looked at they told me it was the head gasket.   Does any of this 
sound
>   right?
>   Thanks
>     Willie
>




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 11:16:59 -0500
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Car will not start

Well, I got so excited about getting my rear brake pads in over the
weekend, I just had to drive it to work and school today.  But I didn't
quite get that far.  I work in the mornings, and go from building to
building.  Well, I'm at a building for about an hour, then I go out to
the DeLorean, and start it up.  It started just fine, and then about 3-5
seconds later it just quit.  So I try cranking it some more and nothing
happens.  Then I go back and swap the blue and grey plugs to fire the
cold start valve.  Bingo.  It starts right away and appears to be
running fine.  So I go back and unplug the cold start valve and it
dies.  So I plug it back in and start it again.  This time the idle is
dropping to about 500 and then bouncing back up again.  So I try giving
it a little gas and it quits.  I have not gotten it to start since
then.  I checked all of the fuses, and relays, and contacts for them,
and they are all clean.  I tried jumping it, but it still wouldn't
start.  I am thinking I may have flooded the engine by giving it gas
with the cold start valve firing.  So after my classes today I'm going
to go back and try it again.  But in the mean time, do any of you have
any ideas that could work?  Thanks a bunch.
-- 
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 14:08:32 -0400
From: Willie Mack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Oil Pan Gasket


When i bought my Delorean, i noticed that the underside of the engine was
covered in oil.   One of the spots that it appeared to be coming from was
the oil pan gasket.  I bought a new gasket and attempted to install it
myself.  I took 15 or so bolts off the oil pan when i realised the final
bolts in the back were blocked by the frame of the car.  Is there any easy
way to gain access to those bolts?  or do i have to loosen the entire
engine?
Thanks
  Willie




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 14:24:25 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Need headlight switch fix

Walter,

The headlight switches have a low failure rate; less than 15% after 19 years. Forget about trying to do a fix or finding a crossover, there are plenty of these switches in stock, they are priced at a reasonable $40.03.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Walter 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 3:10 AM
  Subject: [DML] Need headlight switch fix


  The headlight switch on my Delorean is getting progressively less reliable
  with age.  Before the car had 10K miles on it, the switch started giving
  problems.  I understand that Delorean headlight switches are another typical
  weak-spot in these cars and replacing them with an OEM part is a temporary
  fix at best since headlight switches have a high failure rate.

  The switch just doesn't want to latch when I press it.  Sometimes tapping it
  real fast helps it stick, but with practice the switch is learning
  techniques around my stealth fingers again.

  I've heard rumor that the headlight switch off of a certain model Audi is
  the same thing or better.  Is this true, and can anyone give me details
  about it?

  And otherwise, what is the best fix for a headlight switch?  I've seen (and
  I forget who's car it was) a headlight switch re-wired sticking out of the
  bottom of the center console.  It was a reversible modification that
  bypassed the bad dash switch.  Well this is a good idea, but  I'd kind of
  like to fix it right the first time if that's possible.

  I also remember talking to someone about trying to disassemble a switch and
  repairing it (I think it was the same guy as mentioned above) but he said he
  tried that and failed.

  I'm not eager about rebuilding my switch unless I know I can put it back
  together in the same day.  And I know myself too well... once apart, it will
  probably stay apart until I die of old age and someone else buys the car
  from my estate.

  So who's got the best fix?

  Walt    Tampa, FL





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 16:12:35 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Car will not start

JIM,

IT'S POSSIBLE THE FUEL PUMP ISN'T RUNNING I GUESS. THE COLD START VALVE WILL
OPEN AND DUMP WHAT FUEL IS STILL IN THE LINES AND YOU MAY HAVE JUST RUN IT
OUT OF FUEL. HOWEVER THIS IS ONLY A GUESS. YOU CAN CHECK THE FUEL PUMP
OPPERATION BY:

1. CHECK THE INERTIA SWITCH. IT'S ON THE KICK PANEL TO THE LEFT OF THE
PEDALS. THE RED BUTTON SHOULD BE PUSHED DOWN. THE ORIGINALS WERE BAD AND
WERE REPLACED IN A RECALL. IF THE SWITCH IS BEHIND THE STEERING COLUME YOU
MAY HAVE THE OLD INFERIOR SWITCH. YOU MAY HAVE TO UNPLUG IT AND JUMP THE
WIRES. IF THAT'S NOT THE PROBLEM THEN:


2. GO INTO THE ELECTRICAL AREA BEHIND THE PASSENGER SEAT. CHECK FUSE NUMBER
7 FIRST. IF THAT'S OK DO THIS NEXT:

3. LOCATE THE RPM REALAY. IT'S CLIPPED UNDER THE BOARD THE RELAYS ARE
MOUNTED ON ALONG THE DRIVERS SIDE EDGE. IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO JUMP
CONNECTIONS N30 AND 87 ( LARGE BROWN WIRE AND PURPLE/ WHITE ) WHILE THE
RELAY IS STILL PLUGGED IN YOU SHOULD HEAR THE PUMP RUNNING. IF IT DOES RUN
TRY STARTING THE ENGINE. IF IT RUNS WITH THE JUMPER BUT NOT WITHOUT, THE RPM
RELAY IS BAD. YOU CAN DRIVE HOME THIS WAY BUT THE PUMP IS GOING TO RUN
CONTINUALY UNTIL THE JUMPER IS REMOVED. THOSE ARE THE ONLY SUGGESTIONS I CAN
THINK OF RIGHT NOW. IT SOUNDS AS THOUGH THE IGNITIONIS OK.

BRUCE




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 15:55:38 EDT
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Motor mount / crank case

Upon removing the engine from 2650, I was unable to get the two motor mount bolts loose.  As a work-around, I just unbolted the entire mounts from the frame.  Well I was just looking at the drivers side mount (The actual crankcase flange that the bolt goes through) and noticed that it's cracked the length of the bolt.  Almost as if the bolt seized, corroded and expanded, cracking the aluminum.  By design, the engine/transaxle setup puts much less strain on the mounts than a conventional front engine/rear drive system so it seems unlikely that this crack was caused by any sort of motor torque.  Anybody seen this before?  Anybody have a crankcase for sale cheap? (Otherwise, I'll have this one welded up.)  I'll try to get a pic of the crack up on the website.


Side note:  I'd love to do a little research to find out just when it was that science discovered the adverse affects of putting dissimilar metals in contact with each other.  I'd bet it was sometime before the Delorean was designed!  Delorean engineers must have missed that chapter in school.

Thanks,

Steve "can you guys say anti-seize compound?" S. 
VIN 2650 "Project Delorean"
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 14:30:56 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Florida Delorean Group

Randy,

The Southeastern Delorean Owners Club, based in Atlanta, would be more than happy to assist you with organizing your club. Email us directly and we will put you in touch with our club president who can provide you with knowledge guidance.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: E. Randell Stribling 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 10:36 PM
  Subject: [DML] Florida Delorean Group


  Good Evening Delorean Owners and Enthusiasts.

  A small group of us in Florida would like to consider starting (restarting)
  a Florida DeLorean enthusiasts group.  We have been discussing the ideas of
  formal versus informal organization and would like some input from the
  group.  We are obviously a little envious of the DeLorean activites going on
  in other parts of the country and would like to try our hand at having an
  event in Florida in the near future.  Thanks in advance for your advice and
  interest.

  We are putting together an email list for our group just to notify others
  about any upcoming events.  If you would like to be included please email me
  privately.  estribl1"at"tampabay.rr.com.  For replies please note the "at"
  should be replaced with an _at_dml_ sign as per moderators requests.

  Randy Stribling, Tampa, Florida
  vin 3228



  Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
  www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 11:42:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: brian_roy_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean in the Twin Cities?

there are definately enough cars in the area.

there will be a gathering west of the Cities on the 17 of sept.

What exactly is the project?

Brian
4150
>  
>  Are there any DeLorean owners in the Minneapolis area who wouldn't
>  mind allowing me to shoot a couple rolls of film of your car for a
>  side project I am creating? I would have contacted a neighbourhood 
>  classic car dealership to photoshoot the one they had. Unfortunately, 
>  it was sold some time ago.
>  
>  As payment--since no money is being made from this--I will be happy
>  to supply you with a copy of the finished piece.
>  
>  Cheers,
>  juli goins-maclean
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>  www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>  
>  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>  moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>





_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:13:53 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Need headlight switch fix

The best fix is STILL a OEM part, at $40.03 it is the fastest, 
guaranteed fix. The failure rate is not as high as you may have been 
led to believe.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com


>The headlight switch on my Delorean is getting progressively less reliable
>with age.  Before the car had 10K miles on it, the switch started giving
>problems.  I understand that Delorean headlight switches are another typical
>weak-spot in these cars and replacing them with an OEM part is a temporary
>fix at best since headlight switches have a high failure rate.
>
>The switch just doesn't want to latch when I press it.  Sometimes tapping it
>real fast helps it stick, but with practice the switch is learning
>techniques around my stealth fingers again.

>(SNIP)

>So who's got the best fix?
>
>Walt    Tampa, FL



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 22:06:40 -0400
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel_at_dml_minalco.com>
Subject: Re: dmc2 watch a good investment?

Ok, I have been reading this for a bit and see some misunderstandings
regarding the DMC2 watch.  It is not for sale now.  The only way to get one
is to sign an open contract which either side can break at ay time.  It is
more like a promise to buy a watch when the company starts making cars, no
money now and no watch now.  Once the cars are made, the "vin" number watch
you choose is your cars vin number.

Jack and Virginia Stiefel
DMC Vin: 03461 New York Lic:1981 DMC
Visit us at www.geocities.com/stiefel.geo/new
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gabe W." <thecreech_at_dml_home.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] dmc2 watch a good investment?


> I don't think they are selling it as an investment. I think their selling
it
> to to people who like Deloreans. For example, its rare, when restoring a
car
> your going to make a profit, its not an investment type of thing. People
do
> it because they love the car and have fun doing it. Watch buyers want to
> support the DMC2 because of their love for the original.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TK" <TKNBA_at_dml_prodigy.net>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 12:30 PM
> Subject: [DML] dmc2 watch a good investment?
>
>
> > i was wondering about the dmc2 timepiece that is being offered and i'm
> curious of other peoples thoughts on if you think it is a good investment
or
> not.
> >
> >  As most know its selling for about 3,000 dollars and reserves a new
dmc2
> sports car in your name,                  ( which who knows will actually
> come out)
> >
> > but no matter if the car comes out or not the timepiece , in itself ,a
> stainless steel wonder , a part of the delorean history, may be worth
> something more in the future,
> >
> > and i suppose if the new car comes out , the watch may be worth even
more
> than if it doesn't--------
> > imagine owning a car and always being able to show it off by showing
> people your wrist , people that buy the car and didn't hear about the
offer,
> like we did, will want one.
> >
> > not to mention that the new car in itself might or might not be a good
> investment................only time will tell
> >
> > so i would like to hear some thoughts on if you think the timepiece or
the
> new car is a good investment to make.
> >
> > -TK
> >
> > VIN-   hopefully by next spring- NYC AREA IF SELLERS ARE WONDERING
(10,000
> market )
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 18:29:17 -0500
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Starting Problem solved

Well, I finally got it figured out.  The car is started an running
fine.  It turns out that the previous owner had COMPLETELY removed the
inertia switch!!!  No wonder I couldn't find it.  There was a jumper
wire connecting the ground to the fuel pump that had burned, melted, and
corroded to the point where it lost contact.  This could also explain
the problem I have been having with my power locks since those unlock
wires are not connected to anything.  So here is my next question...  I
am probably going to order a new inertia switch, get a new harness
connector, (existing one is burned and melted), and it will all be
good.  But right now I am wondering what could have caused this to
burn/melt in the first place?  I could see no obvious signs of shorts,
and shouldn't a fuse have blown instead of this?  Right now I'm running
on a new jumper wire I wedged in place.  But I would still like to know
what kind of fire hazard I'm running here.  Thanks for everyone's help.
-- 
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169



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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 21:52:38 -0000
From: "Chris C" <petleech_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Shift knob and other accessories

I know this may sound unimportant to many, but is there a different 
shift knob for th DMC? That black one just looks boring and 
uninteresting in my opinion although it has served me well, I would 
like a stainless or an aluminum one. I have found a Momo aluminum/ 
carbon fiber knob which i really like but am nsure if it will fit the 
threads. Has anyone changed shift knobs or know the thread size on 
the DeLorean? Are there any shift knobs available? 




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