From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 7:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 221

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There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Cleaning A Delorean
From: "Thomas B" <tjb229_at_dml_psu.edu>

2. Classic Speedo possible rollback
From: cbl302_at_dml_msn.com

3. LockZilla (Remote)
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

4. Hot Start Problem
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>

6. Rain Leaks Pix Needed
From: paulheymeson_at_dml_thefreeinternet.co.uk

7. Re: Hot Start Problem
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

8. Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: Rain Leaks Pix Needed
From: cbl302_at_dml_msn.com

10. Fasteners
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Rain Leaks Pix Needed
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

12. Re: Cleaning A Delorean
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Fasteners SAFETY ALERT
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

14. Re: Re: Fasteners SAFETY ALERT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Cleaning an Starting
From: aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:51:38 -0000
From: "Thomas B" <tjb229_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Cleaning A Delorean

Is it safe/effective to use Comet cleaner on a Delorean?

I use it to clean my Stainless Steel sink.

-Tom 





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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:55:29 -0000
From: cbl302_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Classic Speedo possible rollback

   From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Cold Engine running and Speedo

Hi

When I start my DMC it runs fine, but if its been running for about a 
minute and i push the throttle down it hesitates and looses power 
then when the engine has warmed up its fine again. Any ideas

Also the speedo works fine but both the trip and milage counters do 
not work. I checked the Lambda clock which said 74 and i have done 
around 150 miles since and still says 74, but a unit is obviously 300 
miles.

Any ideas 

Thanks

I hate to be the Bearer of Bad News,but it sounds like someone has 
played around with the mileage odometer(rollback)usually when the 
speedo works fine,and the odometer,doesn't,it means that someone 
pulled the odometer out of the case and physically turned back the 
odometer,and did not reinstall it correctly,or used picks to turn it 
back,and screwed up (broke/screwed it up)the connection between both 
odometers,I had one car (a GM)that came from a rental company that 
the speedo worked fine for a long time(about 10yrs) then all of a 
sudden the speedo would turn 10,000 miles for every 100 miles I drove 
it,took it apart and found out that it had been tampered with
(rollback).




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:29:11 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: LockZilla (Remote)

Hello,

Today I finally bought a DeLorean.
It's an 81 and still has the original Lock-Module...
I unhooked the brown wire tos save my solenoids (they're still OK) 
and am considering buying a LockZilla.

Can anyone tell me if the LockZilla can take an external signal 
(from a car-alarm) to lock and unlock the doors?

I HAVE to put in an alarm (for my insurance), which allready has 
a remote, so a LockZilla Remote would be of no use...

By studying the electrical diagram I think it can be done
(even on an original module) by letting a relay work parralel
to the door-lock-switches, but I am not sure.

Please enlighten me!

Greetings from the Netherlands, 

JAN van de Wouw
Think Different...   Use a Mac...
Live the Dream...   Drive a DeLorean...

#05141 since today!

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:28:57 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Hot Start Problem


Hello all,
I recently installed a new fuel pump. The car has run fine the last week, 
but does have a strange hot start problem.

If I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the engine for 
5-6 minutes, then the car starts right up as it should!

Then, if I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the engine 
for 10 minutes + , then the car is very hard to start. I have to crank it at 
least 3 or 4 times before it fires up!

Does anyone have any idea to what causes this?

I would guess that if I really had a serious hot start problem (fuel 
accumulator problem), then it wouldn't even start when I parked on short 
times or start at all. Point is, eventually I do get it started its just 
very slow. I thinking of fuel pressure. Ideas anyone? Since the fuel pump is 
new, I also doubt that it can be a leaking check valve.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 14:56:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...

Hi, 
  On the way home from a car show today(I won 3rd place) my delorean started
exhibiting some strange behavior. I'm hoping you can help.
  First off, it is an 82, 5speed is is definently a higher mileage/daily
driver vehicle. (Not sure exactly how many miles are on it--but that's
another story.
  Anyways, it seems the clutch is slipping or sticking. You let the clutch
out and for a minute the revs stay higher and then a second later the revs
drop for the new gear. It does this off and on(sometimes it doesn't
occur--the car shifts fine) primarily in 1, 2,3 gears. It almost as if the
clutch doesnt disengage in the new gear after youve shifted-- as if it is
sticking and then works it way loose. The car definently shifts gears and
stays in gear--so it doesn't appear to be a tranny(gear) problem.
   The obvious answer is to check the clutch fluid. I'm getting set to do
that now. I guess you use clutch or DOT3 brake fluid to refill?? This is my
first hydralic clutch car. I haven't seen any leaks so if it is low, what
happened? (Can it evaporate over time?)
   Secondly(gulp), what other possibilities am I looking at. Is there
something else before I have to investigate the clutch. The clutch itself
appears solid with no problems before this. It did have a solid feel before
this problem. Can anyone help??
   Thanks.


Nathan E. Green
gzen21_at_dml_excite.com

"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"





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Say Bye to Slow Internet!
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:02:26 -0000
From: paulheymeson_at_dml_thefreeinternet.co.uk
Subject: Rain Leaks Pix Needed

Hi there you may have read about my rain leak problem.
What I need is a picture or diagram of the fiberglass front section 
behind the footwell.
If anyone can help many thanks.
I have tried everything else to no avial and belive that the 
fiberglass is probably double skinned and the water is filling up in 
this section thus seeping through the footwell behind the pedals.

Paul Vin 741(sink on wheels) But I still love it!




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 18:13:28 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Problem

Sounds like the accumulator to me. My car did this last fall. Park it for
just a few minutes and it would start fine. Leave it for 10 or more minutes
and it was difficult to start.

The accumulator doesn't necessarily go bad all at once. The diaphram may
have just a small hole at this time that allows it hold pressure for a few
minutes, but gradually lose it. The problem will get worse until the
diaphram goes out completely or you replace the accumulator.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 09:28 PM 9/17/00 GMT, Stian Birkeland wrote:
>
>If I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the engine for 
>5-6 minutes, then the car starts right up as it should!
>
>Then, if I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the engine 
>for 10 minutes + , then the car is very hard to start. I have to crank it at 
>least 3 or 4 times before it fires up!
>
>Best wishes
>Stian Birkeland
>Norway
>
>VIN # 06759



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:22:15 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...

Nathan,

Conduct the following test to determine if your problem is related to slippage between the clutch disc and pressure plate. While driving the car at highway speed (45-65mph) in 4th gear push the accelerator to the floor while observing the tachometer. If the RPM's increase quickly with no apparent change or very little change in speed you have a worn clutch disc, pressure plate, and possibly a worn flywheel. If your DeLorean is equipped with the original clutch and has more than 60k miles on the clutch system it is not unusual for slippage to occur. You will need to have all of the clutch parts inside the bell housing replaced. Be sure to ask your mechanic to check the condition of the flywheel and replace the crankshaft lip seal.

The hydraulic clutch system which, by the way uses DOT 4 fluid, effects shifting performance not acceleration. 

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Nathan E. Green 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com ; nocoke2_at_dml_litchfieldil.com ; WINGD2_at_dml_aol.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 5:56 PM
  Subject: [DML] Transmission(Clutch) trouble...


  Hi, 
    On the way home from a car show today(I won 3rd place) my delorean started
  exhibiting some strange behavior. I'm hoping you can help.
    First off, it is an 82, 5speed is is definently a higher mileage/daily
  driver vehicle. (Not sure exactly how many miles are on it--but that's



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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 23:22:25 -0000
From: cbl302_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Re: Rain Leaks Pix Needed

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, paulheymeson_at_dml_t... wrote:
> Hi there you may have read about my rain leak problem.
> What I need is a picture or diagram of the fiberglass front section 
> behind the footwell.
> If anyone can help many thanks.
> I have tried everything else to no avial and belive that the 
> fiberglass is probably double skinned and the water is filling up 
in 
> this section thus seeping through the footwell behind the pedals.
> 
> Paul Vin 741(sink on wheels) But I still love it!


Have you caulked up/checked the rivetnuts in the fiberglass,each 
rivitnut that was installed,was basically a hole in the body,if any 
of the bolts on the top of the fenders are loose or missing(that is a 
hollow area where the wiring harness for the lights pass thru),and 
leads directly to the drivers footwell,that area where the top of the 
fender bolts to is also a channel area for rainwater,so that if there 
is any kind of problem(cracked fiberglass,bad or missing 
rivitnut,poor fiberglass repair,ect,ect,then the chances are that the 
water might be entering the footwell, where the harness exits the 
passenger compartment(you will see a big hole in the verticle part ot 
the drivers side footwell,well up the footwell,Hope this helps.

Claude
000570  




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:33:39 EDT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Fasteners

I just finished my fuel system clean out that turned into a front grounding 
point cleaning and master cylinder pressure bleeding ordeal. All turned out 
well but it occurred to me that our stainless steel and fiberglass beauties 
sure were shortchanged by the installation of steel fasteners. While on my 
project I found rusted fasteners on the 3 access plates in the trunk and on 
the fuel tank cover as well as others. I went to the friendly hardware man to 
buy SS replacements. WOW expensive! So I researched and bought in bulk 
(Cheaper)I replaced all access screws, frame mount bolts, Hinge nuts, 
washers, Tank cover bolts and assorted bolt nuts and washers in the trunk 
with stainless. I have enough left over to make up 2 more sets. E mail me if 
interested in buying them. Sand131_at_dml_aol.com
BTW 1606 is now running well again and a bit closer to all Stainless.
Ralph
VIN 1606



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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 00:34:33 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Rain Leaks Pix Needed

Paul,

Right behind the pedal box (where the pedal box and fiberglass body 
mate up), there is a large hole. When I took my pedal box out there 
was alot of black RTV on the pedal box to the fiberglass making a 
seal. If that RTV seal is broke or missing, you will get water into 
your car as you drive in the rain. I can take some pics for you if 
you like since my car is apart and show you what I mean. Email me 
privatley if you want.

Steve
www.dmcman.homestead.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, paulheymeson_at_dml_t... wrote:
> Hi there you may have read about my rain leak problem.
> What I need is a picture or diagram of the fiberglass front section 
> behind the footwell.
> If anyone can help many thanks.
> I have tried everything else to no avial and belive that the 
> fiberglass is probably double skinned and the water is filling up 
in 
> this section thus seeping through the footwell behind the pedals.
> 
> Paul Vin 741(sink on wheels) But I still love it!




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 01:05:38 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning A Delorean

I do not recommend using comet. If you look at the label neither do 
they. If you are not very careful you will damage the graining. 
Depending on what you are trying to do there are better ways to clean 
the car. Start by washing with a mild car wash soap. Dry the car and 
carefully examine the car panel by panel to determine if there are
any 
defects. Minor scratches can be worked out with sandpaper starting 
with #180 working to about 220. Any deep scratches, dents, dings etc 
will require some metalworking. After any repairs Scotch-Brite and
the 
s/s cleaner sold by the Delorean venders will put the finishing touch 
on the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Thomas B" <tjb229_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Is it safe/effective to use Comet cleaner on a Delorean?
> 
> I use it to clean my Stainless Steel sink.
> 
> -Tom




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 02:09:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Fasteners SAFETY ALERT

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, sand131_at_dml_a... wrote:
>So I researched and bought in bulk 
> (Cheaper)I replaced all access screws, frame mount bolts, Hinge 
nuts, 
> washers, Tank cover bolts and assorted bolt nuts and washers in the 
trunk 
> with stainless

BE CAREFUL if you do this. Stainless fasteners can be made with the 
same strength ratings as regular steel, but many aren't. Be 
especially careful if using this for structural purposes (Suspension 
bolts, for example) 

ALSO make sure that you use anti-seize compound on everything. 
Especially on any of these that you screw into the aluminum RivNuts 
all over the body (access panels for example). If you don't, they 
weld themselves in together in the presence of moisture due to a 
reaction between the stainless and the aluminum (ask me how I know). 
Next time you try to take it apart, the RivNuts will just spin in 
place and you'll be looking for your Dremel tool. And then a RivNut 
tool.

BTW  - A great resource for this is Totally Stainless at 
http://users.supernet.com/totallystainless/, they specialize in 
stainless hardware and have a great catalog. Be sure to read the web 
page section on Safety!

They also have a T-shirt that really goes with the DeLorean. 

Dave Swingle




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:25:10 EDT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Fasteners SAFETY ALERT

In a message dated 09/17/2000 9:12:35 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com writes:

<< Especially on any of these that you screw into the aluminum RivNuts 
 all over the body (access panels for example). If you don't, they 
 weld themselves in together in the presence of moisture due to a 
 reaction between the stainless and the aluminum (ask me how I know). 
 Next time you try to take it apart, the RivNuts will just spin in 
 place and you'll be looking for your Dremel tool. And then a RivNut 
 tool. >>
 OK
 Dave you said to ask.--- Why are SS worse than Std Steel in alum Rivenuts?
My original ones had two stuck. Why are stainless worse? I replaced no 
structural bolts so as far as I could see strength is not a consideration.
Ralph



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:37:44 EDT
From: aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cleaning an Starting

Hi group, 

I have 2 questions:

1)  Its recommended to use  scotch-brite pads on the  "D",  how rough of a 
scotch-brite pad can you use.  I have seen different ones. 

2) Today I started my "D"  ( last time was  1 1/2 weeks ago )  I turned the 
key 
and nothing happened. It would not turn over at all.   The radio, lights, 
buzzers
etc all work, so its not a drained battery.   Have about 6-7 turns of the key 
it turned over and started immediately.   Turned it off and it started right 
back 
up.   I washed it afterwards and put some stainless steel cleaner on. I 
figured
it might have been upset with me for not taking him out for a ride sooner.

Thanks

Dave L.
2578



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