From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 1:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 224

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Tire Pressures
From: "William H. Swilley" <billswilley_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Part 2 flat tires - warning and question
From: heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net

3. Re: The real cost of a Delorean
From: Philip Lawton <philip_lawton_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

5. Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble.P2..
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

6. Re: flat tires - warning and question
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Voltage problem on other car
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

8. Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

9. Re: tires
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: The real cost of a Delorean
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

11. DeLorean spotted
From: gullwing99_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Voltage problem on other car
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

13. Brake Problem
From: "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd_at_dml_nima.mil>

14. Re: Voltage problem on other car
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

15. Model Year
From: ratfink_at_dml_erols.com

16. Hey! Don't call our cars 'cheap'!
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

17. Re: Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: Model Year
From: comet6974_at_dml_juno.com

19. Re: Voltage problem on other car
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

20. sighting in STL
From: "Todd Masinelli" <webmaster_at_dml_jackiechan.net>

21. Re: Brake Problem
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: Tire Pressures
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

23. DMC _at_dml_ Fort Worth TX Coors plant
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

24. Cracked Seats?
From: dmcdelorean2_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: Digital Dashboard
From: tahoe98_at_dml_mindspring.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 13:51:33 GMT
From: "William H. Swilley" <billswilley_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Tire Pressures

Mark Noeltner has a good deal of experience auto crossing with the DeLorean. 
  I'm curious as to the tire pressures he has found to be best for that 
event when riding on the Yokos.

He recently wrote:

   Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 20:12:28 -0500
   From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: tires

The front is a 195/60-14 and the rear is a 235/60-15. A lot of tires don't 
have BOTH of these sizes available. I highly recommend keeping both the 
front and the rear the same model of tire if you drive the car very much.  
Different models can affect handling drastically.

I personally recommend the Yokohama AVS Intermediate......
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:35:56 -0000
From: heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net
Subject: Re: Part 2 flat tires - warning and question

> You should never have a DeLorean towed; standard towing could damage 
>fascia's and adjoining panels and fenders. Always specify a flatbed !

Joe, 

  What about the tow trucks that only lift the car by "scoops" or bars 
under the front wheels?  They then tie hold down straps around the 
wheels/tires to the scoops.  No body parts are even touched.  

Also, can towing this way do any damage to the trans-axle?

-Hank





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:38:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Philip Lawton <philip_lawton_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The real cost of a Delorean

The  report on the DeLorean motor company revealed
that
"over $17 million$ dollars had been misappropriated".
Although I do not know the no. of cars made , iam sure
someone could easily work it out.

=====
Do not read this message.



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:39:30 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...

Nathan,  

It could be the Throw out Bearing that is sticking. It's not uncommon 
that the Throw out bearing sticks since water and/or debris can get 
into the bell housing of the tranny (don't let the rubber boot on the 
housing fool you). Unfortunately if it is the Throw out bearing you 
will have to remove to tranny from the car to replace it. If it is an 
intermittent "sticking" problem than it may well be the Throw Out 
bearing that is causing it. 

If you can get to the slave cylinder with your hand, WITHOUT STARTING 
THE CAR (safety) you can have a friend press on the clutch pedal. As 
he presses the clutch down, feel the movement of the clutch fork. It 
should be smooth. If at any point the pedal is being pressed and the 
clutch fork does not move or moves marginally then moves all the way 
to the "clutch released position", you have a sticking component. 
Also as he releases the clutch, feel if the clutch fork moves back 
into place smoothly. It shouldn't be jerky or release after the 
clutch pedal was released some time after. It should all happen 
approx the same time. Of course if it is intermittent, you will have 
to do it a few times.

I would also check the fluid level in you tranny.  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Hi, 
>   On the way home from a car show today(I won 3rd place) my 
delorean started
> exhibiting some strange behavior. I'm hoping you can help.
>   First off, it is an 82, 5speed is is definently a higher 
mileage/daily
> driver vehicle. (Not sure exactly how many miles are on it--but 
that's
> another story.
>   Anyways, it seems the clutch is slipping or sticking. You let the 
clutch
> out and for a minute the revs stay higher and then a second later 
the revs
> drop for the new gear. It does this off and on(sometimes it doesn't
> occur--the car shifts fine) primarily in 1, 2,3 gears. It almost as 
if the
> clutch doesnt disengage in the new gear after youve shifted-- as if 
it is
> sticking and then works it way loose. The car definently shifts 
gears and
> stays in gear--so it doesn't appear to be a tranny(gear) problem.
>    The obvious answer is to check the clutch fluid. I'm getting set 
to do
> that now. I guess you use clutch or DOT3 brake fluid to refill?? 
This is my
> first hydralic clutch car. I haven't seen any leaks so if it is 
low, what
> happened? (Can it evaporate over time?)
>    Secondly(gulp), what other possibilities am I looking at. Is 
there
> something else before I have to investigate the clutch. The clutch 
itself
> appears solid with no problems before this. It did have a solid 
feel before
> this problem. Can anyone help??
>    Thanks.
> 
> 
> Nathan E. Green
> gzen21_at_dml_e...
> 
> "If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're 
gonna' see
> some serious s--t"
> -Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:41:26 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble.P2..

I would also check that there is no air in your clutch hydraulics. 
The cluctch uses DOT4 fluid. Don't use DOT3.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Hi, 
>   On the way home from a car show today(I won 3rd place) my 
delorean started
> exhibiting some strange behavior. I'm hoping you can help.
>   First off, it is an 82, 5speed is is definently a higher 
mileage/daily
> driver vehicle. (Not sure exactly how many miles are on it--but 
that's
> another story.
>   Anyways, it seems the clutch is slipping or sticking. You let the 
clutch
> out and for a minute the revs stay higher and then a second later 
the revs
> drop for the new gear. It does this off and on(sometimes it doesn't
> occur--the car shifts fine) primarily in 1, 2,3 gears. It almost as 
if the
> clutch doesnt disengage in the new gear after youve shifted-- as if 
it is
> sticking and then works it way loose. The car definently shifts 
gears and
> stays in gear--so it doesn't appear to be a tranny(gear) problem.
>    The obvious answer is to check the clutch fluid. I'm getting set 
to do
> that now. I guess you use clutch or DOT3 brake fluid to refill?? 
This is my
> first hydralic clutch car. I haven't seen any leaks so if it is 
low, what
> happened? (Can it evaporate over time?)
>    Secondly(gulp), what other possibilities am I looking at. Is 
there
> something else before I have to investigate the clutch. The clutch 
itself
> appears solid with no problems before this. It did have a solid 
feel before
> this problem. Can anyone help??
>    Thanks.
> 
> 
> Nathan E. Green
> gzen21_at_dml_e...
> 
> "If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're 
gonna' see
> some serious s--t"
> -Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:50:12 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: flat tires - warning and question

On the subject of the spare tire, dismount from the rim and apply a 
camel product called Bead Sealer to the rim, any large tire shop 
should have some and then remount the tire on the rim. It is a thick 
rubbery product that helps seal the tire bead. It doesn't need to be 
balanced. On the subject of what to do with the flat there are
several 
choices, 
 1 leave tire
 2 leave passenger
 3 leave tire and passenger
 4 place tire on engine cover and bungee cord the rear louvre
It is good to keep a towel or large plastic bag in your emergency kit 
to place the tire in.
If you have a luggage rack it would be a good time to use it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Daniel P. Saulnier" <dps_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> I got a flat tire last night and would like to share some insights:
> 1)  The spare is very old.  It looked great, and when I put it on 
the car
> and lowered the jack, everything seemed fine.  After driving 3 feet,
> however, all the pressure leaked out.  Bummer at midnight on a work 
night.
> 2)  No amount of coaxing will enable a rear tire to fit into the 
trunk.  The
> only place it will fit is the passenger seat.  If you get a flat, 
you have
> to choose whether to abandon your tire or your passenger.  
Fortunately, I
> didn't have a passenger.   But I did have a large towel (which I 
recommend
> for everyone's 'emergency tools' kit) to protect my NEW leather 
seats from
> the tire.
> 3)  AAA is a wonderful service, and if you ask, they will send a 
flatbed.
> The driver stopped off for a disposable camera, and used up all the 
film on
> my car.
>  
> I also have some questions.  Does anyone know if the spare can be 
fixed?
> May it just need to be pulled from the rim and remounted?  If so, 
can any
> tire place do this?  Also, when I got home it looked like the 
alignment
> between the rear fascia and the stainless quarter panels had shifted
> (although it was dark, and I was tired, so I could be wrong).  Has 
anyone
> experienced this after towing?
>  
> Dan.
> VIN:05804
>   
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:53:23 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Voltage problem on other car

What are you using to measure the voltage? Do not rely on the Volt 
meter on the dash. 

It sounds as if your alternator is about to go. As the car is 
running, open the engine compartment and listen for any noises coming 
from the alternator. If you hear any type of a whistling sound coming 
from it (or any other strange noise) I would suspect the alternator. 
Also take a Volt meter and check the voltage coming directly off the 
alternator. Connect your ground wire to the case of the alternator 
(scape any dirt off the case to get a clean matal contact surface) 
not to the chassis. By doing this you won't take into factor of (if 
there are any) bad grounds in the car. If it is normal then take a 
few readings in varios places on the car. At the Battery terminals, 
fuse box, etc... If the voltage is lower than the reading you got 
from the alternaor at any point, then you may have a bad ground 
somewhere. All garages can check your alternator/battery easily with 
their equipment without taking any of the components out. It's not 
that expensive, probably around $30-$40 if not cheaper.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Great, now my other D' is giving me a voltage problem.  This one 
has the
> original Motorola Alternator with 6400 miles on it.  When I first 
start the
> car the voltage is like 10V, and I now my meter is not wrong 
because the
> stero and lights do not work or are dim, but If I rev the engine to 
3000
> rpms, the voltage goes to just above 13 and stays there.  I can 
drive
> around, and the voltage stays where it is suposed to be, but if I 
turn it
> off and on again, the voltage goes down to almost nothing, whats my 
problem?




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:01:20 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Problem

If you let the car sit over night and you go to start it, does it 
take long for it to start also? If you may be losing fuel pressure 
somewhere.

I would suspect the fuel accumulator. 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Gregory M Scalia <gmscalia_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I had this.  To the point where I would flatten the battery.  
Eventually a wise old Volvo mechanic told me that this was a problem 
with the leaking injectors.  We replaced all these and the problem is 
a lot better...although not perfect.
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Stian Birkeland[SMTP:dmc_norway_at_dml_h...]
> Sent: 	Monday, September 18, 2000 7:28 AM
> To: 	dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: 	[DML] Hot Start Problem
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> I recently installed a new fuel pump. The car has run fine the last 
week, 
> but does have a strange hot start problem.
> 
> If I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the 
engine for 
> 5-6 minutes, then the car starts right up as it should!
> 
> Then, if I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off 
the engine 
> for 10 minutes + , then the car is very hard to start. I have to 
crank it at 
> least 3 or 4 times before it fires up!
> 
> Does anyone have any idea to what causes this?
> 
> I would guess that if I really had a serious hot start problem 
(fuel 
> accumulator problem), then it wouldn't even start when I parked on 
short 
> times or start at all. Point is, eventually I do get it started its 
just 
> very slow. I thinking of fuel pressure. Ideas anyone? Since the 
fuel pump is 
> new, I also doubt that it can be a leaking check valve.
> 
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
> 
> VIN # 06759
> 
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> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:04:13 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: tires

Do not throw away the tires yet. If properly stored and there is no 
cracking in the sidewalls and the tread is good and no delaminations 
you could carefully drive on the tires. Run your hand over the 
sidewalls on both sides and the tread, if you feel a bubble or a
ridge 
the tire is delaminating. Keep the proper air pressure in them 23 
front and 30 rear and you will get some life out of them. On the
other 
hand if you want piece of mind and better performance by all means 
change the tires. There are a lot of opionions as to what is best. 
Consult the Delorean venders for their experiance. As to the old
tires 
put them on E-bay there is a market for them. They could be worth as 
much as $100 each. If you choose to change the rims keep the old ones 
they are also worth alot and are hard to come by.

David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, delorean31_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 9/18/00 5:56:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> louiegolden_at_dml_m... writes:
> 
> << Hi,
>    The DeLorean I am about to buy has 6,700 miles and still has the 
original 
> tires. I am sure they need replacing. Can anyone recommend a good 
tire? My 
> town only has a Firestone and a Goodyear dealers. I would like to 
know 
> prices, and what size of tires I need. I tried to look up this info 
on the 
> DMC News site, but my computer said the page couldn't be shown. 
Thank you for 
> your help-
>  Louie Golden (nc)
>  #6827 (hopefully!) >>
> 
> 
> Go to www.tirerack.com and get the Yokohama AVS Intermediate.  You 
cant get a 
> better set or a better price than there.  Hope this helps
> 
> Gary Gore
> Activities Director
> DeLorean Mid Atlantic
> VIN 3360




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 12:28:57 EDT
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The real cost of a Delorean

I am sure we have all heard funny stories from people at car shows.  This 
reminds me of one person I met at a show.  He told me I shouldn't drive the 
car because it was worth about a hundred thousand.  No matter what I said he 
wouldn't believe me on the cars value.  He was telling me I was wrong no 
matter how I explained it to him.  Finally I just laughed and said, "OK youre 
right its worth 100,000 but today you can have it for half price :-)"

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360

<< Just do what I do: when people ask me how much my DeLorean costs I just 
tall them "a hundred thousand dollars" that satisfies most. Keep in mind that 
the average person considers the DeLorean in the same class as the 
Lamborghini so the 100k sounds right.
 
 "We're here to help you"
 
 DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
 Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> >>



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 13:20:21 EDT
From: gullwing99_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean spotted

   Hello,,,,,,,,my family and I went to Amish country this weekend  near 
Sugar Creek Ohio,,and next to that in  Berlin Ohio,,,I saw a DeLorean parked 
on the side of the road,,,,,,,didn't have a chance to get over to it and get 
the vin but I just wondered if it was anyone on here. if 
so,,,,,,,e-mail,,,,,,like to say hi,,,,,
   p.s.  looked as if it was in really good shape
     J.B. Vincent
     vin: 16709



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 17:42:23 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage problem on other car

Clean the ground connections on your car. Most important: Negative 
cable on the battery, ground point for the starter under the coolant 
bottle (on chassis), and the front connection point (remove the brake 
master cylinder access panel to reach). Had the exact same promblem 
that you have. Cleaned the ground conections and it was like 
installing a new alternator! I just removed the bolts and cleaned the 
bolts, nuts, chasiss metal, and the harness connection with foamy 
engine brite. Quick, easy, and didn't damage the epoxy. Start from 
there and work you way down to the lesser ground points.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Great, now my other D' is giving me a voltage problem.  This one 
has the
> original Motorola Alternator with 6400 miles on it.  When I first 
start the
> car the voltage is like 10V, and I now my meter is not wrong 
because the
> stero and lights do not work or are dim, but If I rev the engine to 
3000
> rpms, the voltage goes to just above 13 and stays there.  I can 
drive
> around, and the voltage stays where it is suposed to be, but if I 
turn it
> off and on again, the voltage goes down to almost nothing, whats my 
problem?




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:21:50 -0400
From: "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd_at_dml_nima.mil>
Subject: Brake Problem


Hello List, My Girlfriend and I were driving around this weekend looking at
houses in several different neighborhoods.  After spending a half hour or
hour stopping and going, on the brakes off the brakes etc. the brake peddle
was starting to get "squishy"...it would almost touch the floor.  Before the
trip I had a good firm peddle.  After waiting for just a couple of minutes
the firm peddle would come back, but after some more stop and go it would
get squishy again.  My first thought is that there may be moisture in the
system that is either getting hot or "boiling" causing this condition.  Any
Thoughts?

Thanks,
Dennis Lowery
Vin.  4797
Oct 81

P.S. I'm going the Richmond VA British car show this weekend.  I'm Leaving
Saturday morning From my home in Woodbridge VA ( about 20 miles south of
Washington D.C. on the I-95 corridor) If anyone would like to caravan.  Or
maybe  I could meet up with an existing caravan.  Please let me know at my
NEW e-mail address Ratfink_at_dml_delorean.com  <~~~Pretty cool huh?



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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:36:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage problem on other car

Joe,

Check to be sure that the field/warning light wire, (brown/yellow), is properly connected to the alternator.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Joe Palatinus 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 7:30 PM
  Subject: [DML] Voltage problem on other car


  Great, now my other D' is giving me a voltage problem.  This one has the
  original Motorola Alternator with 6400 miles on it.  When I first start the
  car the voltage is like 10V, and I now my meter is not wrong because the
  stero and lights do not work or are dim, but If I rev the engine to 3000
  rpms, the voltage goes to just above 13 and stays there.  I can drive
  around, and the voltage stays where it is suposed to be, but if I turn it
  off and on again, the voltage goes down to almost nothing, whats my problem?


  Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
  www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 21:10:54 -0000
From: ratfink_at_dml_erols.com
Subject: Model Year

Yesterday I had my Delorean inspected.  When the mechanic finished he 
asked me what model year it was, and I told him it was an 81.  He
must 
have see the door sill plate and the manufacture date of Oct 81, and 
said it should be an 82.  He said that anything after Sept was 
considered an 82.  Anybody have any insight?  It seems the big 3 
brings out it's new model year in sept., But I imagine they start 
building the new model in July or August. Soooo, whats the deal?  It 
just made me think.

Dennis Lowery




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:17:08 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: Hey! Don't call our cars 'cheap'!

  This is an FYI about a website at:

http://www.autopictures.com/delorean/index.html

That has several pictures taken from other owners websites (my own included)
and it also contains the following:

"The car was funded by the British Government which though John Delorean
left them with a cheap car and took much of the development money from the
project for himself."

I have written to 'Dusko Jocic' but my request to have the offending
information altered has gone unheeded and unanswered.

Personally, I don't want photos of my car associated with a website that
denigrates the car and the man and I doubt any of you do either. 

The 'webmaster's' e-mail address is newcarpage_at_dml_hotmail.com

Ken



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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 23:05:00 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Hot Start Problem

Steve - When I let the car sit overnight it starts right up the next 
morning. The cold start valve is new. No problem. Its the hotstarts that are 
difficult. I think the accumulator must be changed, yes.

Best wishes
Stian


>From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Hot Start Problem
>Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:01:20 -0000
>
>If you let the car sit over night and you go to start it, does it
>take long for it to start also? If you may be losing fuel pressure
>somewhere.
>
>I would suspect the fuel accumulator.
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Gregory M Scalia <gmscalia_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > I had this.  To the point where I would flatten the battery.
>Eventually a wise old Volvo mechanic told me that this was a problem
>with the leaking injectors.  We replaced all these and the problem is
>a lot better...although not perfect.
> >
> > ----------
> > From: 	Stian Birkeland[SMTP:dmc_norway_at_dml_h...]
> > Sent: 	Monday, September 18, 2000 7:28 AM
> > To: 	dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> > Subject: 	[DML] Hot Start Problem
> >
> >
> > Hello all,
> > I recently installed a new fuel pump. The car has run fine the last
>week,
> > but does have a strange hot start problem.
> >
> > If I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the
>engine for
> > 5-6 minutes, then the car starts right up as it should!
> >
> > Then, if I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off
>the engine
> > for 10 minutes + , then the car is very hard to start. I have to
>crank it at
> > least 3 or 4 times before it fires up!
> >
> > Does anyone have any idea to what causes this?
> >
> > I would guess that if I really had a serious hot start problem
>(fuel
> > accumulator problem), then it wouldn't even start when I parked on
>short
> > times or start at all. Point is, eventually I do get it started its
>just
> > very slow. I thinking of fuel pressure. Ideas anyone? Since the
>fuel pump is
> > new, I also doubt that it can be a leaking check valve.
> >
> > Best wishes
> > Stian Birkeland
> > Norway
> >
> > VIN # 06759
> >
>______________________________________________________________________
>___
> > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
>http://www.hotmail.com.
> >
> > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> > http://profiles.msn.com.
> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
>address:
> > moderator_at_dml_d...
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:25:07 -0700
From: comet6974_at_dml_juno.com
Subject: Re: Model Year

If You look at the VIN, there should be a combination of two leters next
to the production number, BD is an 81, CD is an 82 and DD is an 83, 

Trevor Johnson
Vin Numbers 6974 & 4055 Both BD
________________________________________________________________
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 19:57:49 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Voltage problem on other car

Joe, 
Most likley you have a bad regulator in the alternator. At or around 1500 
rpm's the alternator is doing all it can. If you haven't seen the top side of 
13 volt then you should replace the alternator. I build the De Lorean 140 amp 
and it will end the  voltage and current problems.$195.00 exchange. goto 
www.specialTauto.com 
John



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 18:24:53 -0500
From: "Todd Masinelli" <webmaster_at_dml_jackiechan.net>
Subject: sighting in STL

In case the owner of the car with IL license plates "GLWNG 1" (or something
very similar) is on the list...

I spotted you on the Poplar Street Bridge this morning, and just wanted to
thank you for brightening up the end of a very dull commute.  Nice car!

On the other hand, since I decided to purchase a brand new Mustang a couple
of weeks ago and hold off on buying a DeLorean until later, you also ruined
the rest of my day by giving me a serious case of buyer's regret!  Wanna
trade cars?  (Can't blame a guy for trying...)

_________________________
Todd Masinelli
webmaster_at_dml_jackiechan.net
http://www.jackiechan.net




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 00:12:18 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Problem

The best thing to do is to flush the system with castrol gtlma dot 4 
brake fluid. This may cause the old seals to leak so be prepared to 
rebuild the brale system soon after. You may also have a bad brake 
hose, when it gets hot and you step on the pedal it ballons up at a 
weak spot. This is very dangerous and should be checked out 
IMMEDIATLY. Have a helper step on the pedal while you inspect the 
hoses.
I hope to also see you in va.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> Hello List, My Girlfriend and I were driving around this weekend 
looking at
> houses in several different neighborhoods.  After spending a half 
hour or
> hour stopping and going, on the brakes off the brakes etc. the
brake 
peddle
> was starting to get "squishy"...it would almost touch the floor.  
Before the
> trip I had a good firm peddle.  After waiting for just a couple of 
minutes
> the firm peddle would come back, but after some more stop and go it 
would
> get squishy again.  My first thought is that there may be moisture 
in the
> system that is either getting hot or "boiling" causing this 
condition.  Any
> Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> Dennis Lowery
> Vin.  4797
> Oct 81
> 
> P.S. I'm going the Richmond VA British car show this weekend.  I'm 
Leaving
> Saturday morning From my home in Woodbridge VA ( about 20 miles 
south of
> Washington D.C. on the I-95 corridor) If anyone would like to 
caravan.  Or
> maybe  I could meet up with an existing caravan.  Please let me
know 
at my
> NEW e-mail address Ratfink_at_dml_d...  <~~~Pretty cool huh?




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 19:37:21 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Tire Pressures

Hi Bill! Good to hear from you!

I can't say that I have a LOT of experience autocrossing the DeLorean.
Since it really isn't classed competitively in SCCA autocross we run our
Miata most of the time. Still it's fun to get out and run the D occasionally.

I found that with the Yokohama AVS-I tires I only had to bump the pressures
up a little bit to get good performance. The pressures listed in the owners
manual for "Continuous High Speed Driving" are close. The manual says
29F/34R. I went a littl higher in the front to reduce sidewall rollover
during hard cornering, and ended up at 32F/33R on an asphalt surface. On a
rough concrete surface I would bump it up 2 or 3 pounds at both ends. With
any other model tire I would start a little higher than that and work down
from there while watching sidewall rollover on the front. Temperatures at
the event could cause these pressures to be off a little, but will get you
in the ball park.

We'll be running the D again at the St. Louis Region SCCA event at Gateway
International Raceway in Madison, Illinois on October 22nd. We'll be out on
the parking lot, not the track since this is autocross, not wheel-to-wheel.
Come on out and join us if you're in the area that weekend! Details are at
the club web site:  http://www.midstatedmc.com/  under Events.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 01:51 PM 9/19/00 GMT, you wrote:
>Mark Noeltner has a good deal of experience auto crossing with the DeLorean. 
>  I'm curious as to the tire pressures he has found to be best for that 
>event when riding on the Yokos.
>
>He recently wrote:
>
>   Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 20:12:28 -0500
>   From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
>Subject: Re: tires
>
>The front is a 195/60-14 and the rear is a 235/60-15. A lot of tires don't 
>have BOTH of these sizes available. I highly recommend keeping both the 
>front and the rear the same model of tire if you drive the car very much.  
>Different models can affect handling drastically.
>
>I personally recommend the Yokohama AVS Intermediate......



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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:42:02 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DMC _at_dml_ Fort Worth TX Coors plant

Hello,
    My brother moved down to Ft Worth texas this summer and I just heard from 
him.  He said there is a DeLorean parked in the Coors beer plant parking lot 
that never moves. Does anyone on the list know about this car?  just curious 
to see if anyone has seen this car before.  It looks to be in exellent shape 
but he said he doesnt even know if it is ever driven.  I think there are a 
few people on the list in FT Worth, go check it out! 

later
David
#2496-



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:48:08 EDT
From: dmcdelorean2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Cracked Seats?

Hey,

    Yesterday I decided that I really had to do something about my bad seats. 
They were really worn and cracked. I was looking into prices and were too 
much for me. So anyways, I was looking at Tamir's DeLorean Site 
(www.entermyworld.com) and noticed how his were dyed black. Well I decided to 
do my own little home project and dyed my seats black. I just want to say 
that the dye really covered the cracks and worn spots. The seats look 
incredible, and they are truely a wonderful combination to have in the grey 
interior. It truely looks like a 2-tone interior, I am so glad I did it. My 
Delorean looks incredible now. First I had to remove the both seats from the 
car. Next I gave the seats a good scrub with like window cleaner, then dried 
off, and took the back piece off. I started with the back piece and all the 
hidden spaces. Then did the rest. I put 2 coats of black leather dye, when 
they dried I rubbed it with a soft cloth. After I was done I used shoe polish 
spray on it. And I was done. Alot of money saved and a nice addition to the 
car. 

Chris
Rahway, NJ
VIN 11388



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 01:20:44 -0000
From: tahoe98_at_dml_mindspring.com
Subject: Re: Digital Dashboard

I would agree that Dakota Digital would be the best bet.  I just 
recently ordered a cruise control system from them & I was VERY 
impressed.  I am seriously considering the digital dashboard from 
them as well.  I will post if I choose to do this.  

Regards,

Ben Boatright
VIN 10115

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Jason Perkins <jperkins_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Dakota Digital has offered to make me a custom Digital Dash if I 
want.  You
> would have to send them your Dash, so they could get the fittings 
right
> though.
> 
> http://www.dakotadigital.com/
> 
> Jason Perkins
> Vin # 16665
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gerald Deutsch [mailto:Jerry1_at_dml_e...]
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 1999 1:15 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Digital Dashboard
> 
> 
> JC Whitney sells a generic digital dash that might work in the D. I 
know
> someone who bought one and he plans to install it when he can in 
his D.
> When/if he gets it done, I'll be sure to post it to the list. ---Dan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_v...>
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
> Date: Monday, August 02, 1999 12:16 AM
> Subject: [DML] Digital Dashboard
> 
> 
> >Hi,
> >
> >I'm not a D-Owner yet, but I was just wondering;
> >
> >Does any-one know if there's a "standard" Digital dashboard 
available for
> D's?
> >I mean, can I just buy one that would fit, or would you have to 
build
> something yourself?
> >
> >The D is a REALLY beautiful car, very futuristic, but the dash 
looks SO
> old-fashioned,
> >something like in KITT (from KnightRider) woul look MUCH cooler if 
you
> asked me.
> >
> >Pleas Understand me correct: I do NOT want comments like "You 
shouldn't
> mess withe a D's
> >look", this list isn't ment for that, I just want to know  wether 
to buy or
> to buil
> >yourself.
> >
> >Greetings from The Netherlands,
> >
> >Jan van de Wouw
> >Think Different...   Use a Mac...   Drive a DeLorean...
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address
> moderator_at_dml_d...
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address
> moderator_at_dml_d...




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