From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 7:54 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 231

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There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cooling fan motor inerchange
From: nbrommer_at_dml_krem.com

2. Re: Fuel sending unit / digital dash
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

3. Strange headlight problem
From: sharkywtrs_at_dml_aol.com

4. Digital Dash
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

5. Re: Door Handles from Hell!
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>

6. Digital Dash
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>

7. Another book, another similar car and another DeLorean mention.
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

8. Continuing Voltage Problem revised
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>

9. Misc stuff...
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>

10. Relay in engine compartment
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

11. Delorean for sale - low oil pressure
From: Jack Janney <fastride_at_dml_mciworld.com>

12. Richmond DeLorean Tech Session
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

13. Re: Re: Cooling fan motor inerchange
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com

14. Fanzilla and VOltage problem
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>

15. Re: Strange headlight problem
From: CIAsleeper22_at_dml_aol.com

16. Memorabilia questions
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com

17. Engine cover
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

18. RE: Delorean for sale - low oil pressure
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

19. Re: Continuing Voltage Problem revised
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

20. Euro 2000
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>

21. Re: Engine cover
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

22. DeLorean Expo 2000 - Road to Rio!
From: "Ray Haug" <rdh_at_dml_hozt.com>

23. RE: Engine cover
From: "Steven Gilseth" <sgilseth_at_dml_minn.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 04:39:49 -0000
From: nbrommer_at_dml_krem.com
Subject: Re: Cooling fan motor inerchange

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, nbrommer_at_dml_k... wrote:
> My D is at the mechanic, and has been diagnosed with a failed 
cooling 
> fan motor. Does anyone know of an inexpensive intechange for this 
> part?
> 
> Nick
> VIN 3092

Here's what I found: These cooling fan motors will possibly 
interchange with Jaguar XJ6 cooling fans. Anyone ever done this?

Nick
VIN 3092




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 02:32:08 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel sending unit / digital dash

Marty,

As far as the car electronics are concerned, the oil pressure gauge
functions pretty much as an ohm meter when the oil pressure sending unit is
replaced with a resistor box.  The zero and 80 psi readings are accurate,
but the markings in between are logarithmically spaced to account for the
lever arm in the sending unit moving in a circular motion across a linear
rheostat track.  Thus, as a percentage of full scale, the gauge is accurate
to scale proportion.  i.e. 50% scale is 40 ohms.  However, the 40 psi
demarcation is closer to 50 ohms.  I'll have exact values ready when I get
the film in my camera developed.  I did multiple exposures with multiple
gauge positions.  It will look real cool when it's all done.

Look at the chart below and tell me which value I got incorrect.  It seems
to me that your sending unit has the principle and idea right, but the
values it yields are incorrect.  ;-)

To help explain the data, here is a quote from my yet to be published
report:

The data show that all sending units are 'sticky' meaning that there is a
bit of friction that must be over come before the inner workings of the unit
will register a change in input pressure.  It took up to a 13 psi change to
cause any measurable change in sender output.  Some of this static friction
may be attributed to the following:
1) senders being new and not yet broken in .
2) senders being tested at room temperature.
3) (and most important) sender not being exposed to the vibration of a
normal running engine.

I'm considering setting up a vibrating manifold for the sending units so
that I can better approximate actual working conditions for when I re-test
them.  (Ah, the curse of being a Libra.)

Here's the data I found for the sending unit YOU sent me:

First number is PSI, second number is ohms yielded from sending unit on
decreasing pressures, third number is ohms yielded from sending unit on
increasing pressures.  These are average values.

PSI  vs. Ohms
------------------------
80.0     87.0 & 80.5

75.0     80.9 & 80.5

70.0     80.8 & 72.4

65.0     72.7 & 72.4

60.0     72.7 & 68.7

55.0     69.0 & 65.0

50.0     65.4 & 61.3

45.0     61.7 &  55.3

40.0     55.6 & 49.3

35.0     49.6 & 44.4

30.0     44.6 & 39.4

25.0     39.6 & 35.0

20.0     35.2 & 30.9

15.0     31.2 & 24.5

10.0     27.6 & 00.4

5.0     00.6 & 00.5

0.0     00.6 & 00.5

-----Original Message-----
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com <wingd2_at_dml_aol.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Date: Friday, September 22, 2000 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel sending unit / digital dash


>Walt,
>   On the fuel sending unit, you should take one apart sometime. It works
on
>the rheostat principal, just a little different design then other sending
>units.
>
>   And on the oil sending unit. You've got the principle and idea of how it
>works right, it's just the values you've got are incorrect.
>
>   Marty




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:43:34 EDT
From: sharkywtrs_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Strange headlight problem

Ok this one has me baffled.  I think it's the switch, but then again, who 
knows.  The switch was just replaced about 3 months ago.  When I turn on the 
headlights, the parking lights always come on, but the headlights sometimes 
take some playing around with.  The switch locks in position, but they don't 
come on.  I usually have to play around flashing the brights while the switch 
is off, then turn it back on.  Any ideas?


Scott



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 09:27:11 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Digital Dash

What about those with the Tankzilla upgrade?  How will the digital dash
compensate for those with and without tankzilla?

Also can any of the DeLorean unique features remain on the new
unit....ie: the DMC logo, door open picture with one gullwing door open
etc....without these unique DMC features it makes it les attractive.

Also, will this new dash be removable if you want to sell your car and
put the stock unit back in place.

Tom
#05732




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 09:56:12 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_imap.maya.com>
Subject: Re: Door Handles from Hell!

It is worth pointing out that in addition to being infinitely cool, 
remote door openers vastly reduce wear and tear on the outside door 
handles. (Darryl, btw, is the resident expert on this topic as well). 
Since I installed Darryl's setup along with a remote controlled alarm 
and door locks, I can't remember the last time I as much as touched 
the handles or used a key in the door. And of course, as long as your 
battery holds out, you can get in even with both handles missing...

I am thinking of getting one more actuator motor to use on the trunk 
release. That way, the standard release cable will in effect become 
my backup.

Cheers,

--pete lucas
   VIN #06703
-- 
  --pete



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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 07:07:31 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>
Subject: Digital Dash

Just a wild input on the digital dash idea.   A few years ago I owned an UltraVan motorhome with a Corvair engine in the rear under the bedroom floor.  It used a speedometer cable about a mile long to go to the dash in the front.  One day it broke while I was on a trip.   I bought a bicycle digital speedometer/odometer on sale for $19.95 and adapted it to the rig...it just uses a magnet for the pickup/counter unit on any wheel.  It is VERY accurate as you just calibrate to the circumference of the wheel by making a mark on your tire and on the pavement and rolling it one turn and punch some buttons.   I replaced the cable later, but left this in there and over several years it always continued to work.  Just replaced the little watch type battery in it about once a year.   Besides the speedo/odo function it has about 6 others that are interesting too.  
FWIW Dept
        Murray
        Vin: 05962
        Lic: DMC-XII
        Washington State


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:09:58 -0700
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Another book, another similar car and another DeLorean mention.

I just picked up the book "Concept Cars; An A-Z guide to the world's most
fabulous futuristic cars" and, though they don't seem to mention any
DeLorean concept cars, the mention the DeLorean almost immediately in the
text.  Under Alfa Romeo they talk about the Iguana concept car:  "Ital
Design developed another spectacular Alfa concept car, the Iguana prototype
of 1969.  This was intended for production in a small series but it never
did.  Based on the 33 Stradale mid-engined chassis, it was notable for its
brushed stainless-steel body (ten years before the De Lorean) and sharp nose
treatment."

Though that's probably the only mention of DeLorean in this book, it's still
a very fascinating read.  It's amazing how many concept cars have had
gull-wingish doors.

--Rob Hook






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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:20:27 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Continuing Voltage Problem revised

Ok here is the deal, This car has a grady 105 amp delco alternator in it.
THe belt is the same tension as it is in my other D.  WHen I start up I get
13 volts exactly on my volt meter, and if I measere the Voltage at the jump
terminals with engine runnign I get 14.0Volts.  If I let the cooling fans
come on, I get 13.5 volts, and if I have the A/c compressor on I get 11.5v
(this is with engine running)  IT should be alot more than this I know, any
ideas on what to try to fix this?
THanks
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167



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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:08:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Misc stuff...

Everyone, 
   Thanks for your help regarding the front fans. Apparently the circuit
breaker needs replacing. I hooked it straight(no breaker) while mine is on
order. It didn't work, so I pulled the fan relay...blew on it to clean the
connection...and very carefully reinserted it. Guess what? The fans work
fine now. I will eventually have to order a new fan relay. I realize this
has probably been covered...but could someone rehash my options. (I know
several different updated relays are availiable). BTW, the relay looks
original that came with the car!!
   Stereo info....to the person wanting to re direct his vents. The previous
owner of my car did that. He installed an alpine system with a graphic
equalizer in the dash. He redirected the vents to the side and mounted them
under the dash. I would discourage this. The vents aren't nearly as
efficient this way, it seems. They just blow on your leg and in the
summer...actually most of my cooling comes from the side vents. Maybe its
just the way my vents are aligned(or not aligned properly) but it just seems
like a pain in the #_at_dml_$#. I would switch them back if it wasn't so much
trouble. If you live in a cold climate and don't use the A/C, OTOH, (use
mostly the heat) it might not be so bad...just my .02.
   (If I had a digital camera I would email you pictures--it does look a bit
different from the stock Delorean though)

Nate

Nathan E. Green
gzen21_at_dml_excite.com

"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"





_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 23:30:37 +0100
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Relay in engine compartment

Does anyone know what the relay is for at the back of the engine compartment on the left side?? I have the socket but it is empty!

thanks

Chris
Vin 16327


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 16:44:38 -0600
From: Jack Janney <fastride_at_dml_mciworld.com>
Subject: Delorean for sale - low oil pressure

Hi there.  I am new to the Delorean world.  I recently crashed my Buell S2T (motorcycle) and have decided it's maybe time to get off two wheels and into four.  I've owned a variety of 60s/70s/80s muscle and sports cars.  I started looking at Deloreans because they seem to be a very good value right now - I love the looks, and based on inflation, etc, in todays dollars new ones would be selling for about the cost of a Dodge Viper.   Good condition 20K to 30K mile examples seem to be trading in the low to mid teens.
There is an '81 for sale in my area that I'm considering.  It's a two owner car.  The twenty-something year old owners' father bought it new.  He's had it about 5 years and doesn't look like he's treated it exceptionaly well although claims it has always been garaged.  It's a fairly early car, build date is June 81 and vin is 2044, mileage is 32K.  He started out asking $14,000 but is now down to $12,000.  Stainless steel is very good, original wheels are good.  Leather on seats are as good as can be expected for being 20 years old.  Transmission shifts well in all gears, but clutch is very stiff, which leads me to believe it needs to be replaced?  There is some general wear and tear on the steering wheel hub, the leather piece on the drivers side that everyone seems to rub getting in and out.  General condition just looks like it has been neglected in recent years.  Oh, two things are broken.  The radio doesn't work, and the passenger window won't roll up.
Here's the thing that has me questioning if I should even make an offer (I am thinking of offering $10,500).  The oil pressure at idle is half way between 0 and the first hash mark (10 psi?).  Above idle it goes to about the third hash mark (60 psi?).

So two questions for you owners out there.  Would the oil pressure at idle scare you away?  Is ~$11K a fair price for a car of this mileage and condition?  

Thanks for your help.

Jack Janney


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 19:14:17 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Richmond DeLorean Tech Session

If you didn't make it to the DeLorean Tech session today in Richmond you really missed a great event. The weather held off and finally cleared by afternoon. We had twelve cars attend, some towed in, some pushed in (Jack), and some actually made it in under their own power. Mine was home because I had the bar-b-q grill and the food for the picnic. Rob Grady had a mob of people asking for advise as he moved from car to car as Bob Miller and I adjusted doors. David Teitelbaum provided a excellant tech session after lunch and was bombed with questions after.

Two things I found out about DeLorean owners today are 1) they are a great bunch of people and 2) they don't eat a whole lot, I'm going to be eating hamburgers and hotdogs for the next two weeks.

See you all at the Richmond show tomorrow.

Dave Sontos
VIN 02573


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 12:21:45 EDT
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling fan motor inerchange

Nick,
Yes, the early 80's Jaguar XJ6 cooling fans will exchange with the Deloreans. 
Found this out on a friends car a few years ago. His was a daily driver that 
had one of the two cooling fans fail. Being a driver he had to have the car 
running everyday. I called my local Jaguar mechanic to try and match up 
motor. He allowed us to compare motors with his parts bins. Found the XJ6 
motor matched. This car was later sold and I know that it is still on the 
road today. I assume that it still has the XJ6 cooling fan motor in it. 
Bruce Battles
Vin # 06569



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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 13:50:56 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Fanzilla and VOltage problem

Since the majority of my problems has to do with the A/C and cooling fans
comming on I decided I would try to change out the fanzilla with the one
from my other car.  When my Ac was on and the blower in 1st speed, the fans
would still cycle on and off, I was under the impression that Fan zilla
keeps the fans on all the time when the ac is on max, regardless of blower
motor speed.  I changed out the fan zillas, but it did the same thing, I
wonder if it is a circuit breaker or something any ideas.  If I have any
two of the following items on, my voltage goes to nill.  AC (max or norm)
BLower motor, and lights.  I can have the mode switch set to vents, and
blower on max, but if I turn my lights on the voltage goes to pot.  If I
have the ac set on max, and my blower motor off or set to one, but my light
on makes the voltage go to pot also.  If I just have either one of these
three items on I get 13 or really close to 13 voltage on my voltmeter, na
dI am certain that my voltmeter is accurate, as I have testested several
other places and gotten the same voltages.  I really would like this
problem resolved I have tried 3 different alternators and they all do a
simmilar thing.  
THanks for your input

Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 and 6808



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 14:23:06 EDT
From: CIAsleeper22_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Strange headlight problem

Again, as I said a few days ago, I had this very same problem. Somehow, the 
switch is a bit loose in the housing. Take off the front control plate under 
the radio and try to realign the switch. If that doesnt work, you will have 
to remove the entire face to get behind there and realign it. It took me 
about 15 mins and it works perfectly now.

Justin
vin5712



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 15:47:19 EDT
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Memorabilia questions

Fellow DMCer's,
 A thank you to the moderators for posting this. First these questions have 
nothing to do about watches! A couple of years ago Alan Parsons had an cd 
with a Delorean on the cover. Thru this list I was able to locate the owner, 
( great trivia). Now I have a couple of mysteries to solve. I bought on Ebay 
a peice of Delorean memorabilia. It is from a series called Dream Machines. 
It shows a Delorean lic # RIA 7124 ( British ). It is an 81 with flap. Anyone 
know the owner? While looking closely at the driver in the photo, it looks 
like a young Stephan Wynne of DMC Houston. I have added two photos to the 
vault ( under the folder Memorabila). One of the full page, and the second a 
close up of the driver. James E. care to give us a guess? 
Now onto my second mystery. On the cover of Auto Week (4/20/81) and the cover 
of Special Interst Autos (June 95) is a Delorean lic # RIA 7126 ( 81 with gas 
flap). It is my understanding that in England the lic # stays with the owner. 
Unlike here in the states where each time you get a new car you change lic. 
Anyone know who RIA 7126 and RIA 7124 belong too? By the way the auto 
featured in the Special Interest Auto article is Mike Sullivan's. Only the 
cover car remains a mystery.  
Bruce Battles
Vin# 06569



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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 18:47:04 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Engine cover

I was wondering: How would you open the engine cover when you are alone? As 
you know, I am not a DeLorean expert, but I need two people to open the 
engine cover. I lift the louvres up, and they stay up, and when I pull the 
engine cover-release, I need someone to lift it up. Is it supposed to pop up 
by itself? 

John Feldman
VIN 4275
Minnesota plate: 
MY81DMC



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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 18:59:00 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean for sale - low oil pressure

Jack,

When I was considering a Delorean purchase, I found this mailing list and
read the archives.  All of them.  Perhaps you're not that serious and/or
crazy but I'll share what I learned.

First, there are a number of things that were defective on the car when it
shipped in 1981, all of which will need replacement if not already done.
The window regulators are one such item.  This is likely the problem with
the passenger window and the driver's side is probably not far behind.  The
door lock module was under engineered and, in the worst case, will lock you
inside the car and burn up the solenoids in the doors.  The "Fan Fail"
module was aptly named, as it made your fans fail and caused overheating.
There are also trailing arm bolts that could shear, faulty inertia switches
that could leave you stranded, etc.  (The last three items, among others,
prompted factory recalls and should have been fixed under warranty by a
diligent original owner.)

Don't let these things scare you though.  The point I'm making is that these
things will need to be attended to, no matter what Delorean you buy, unless
they've already been fixed.  That's my worry with buying a low-miles
Delorean: the previous owners could have owned the car for 20 years without
addressing these items.  Fortunately, since these problems were pervasive
the fixes are well documented, and modern replacement parts are readily
available.

There are also problems can can crop up from neglect, such as sun damage,
but these thing will happen to any neglected 20-year-old car.  Again,
replacements are available for things like seats and steering wheels.

As for the oil pressure, the value you observed is low for a Delorean.  But
the PRV engine is the most reliable part of the car.  It is more likely to
be a bad electrical connection.  The broken radio is only important if
you're trying to keep the car original and NOS replacements are still
available.

Keep in mind "Rule of Twenty," which dictates that, on average, the cost of
the car PLUS the cost of repairs/updates is about $20,000.  Your actual
milage may vary, but if you get a daily driver for under that amount for are
more fortunate than most.

Sorry about the bike.  Glad you weren't hurt too bad!


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695


P.S.  Get a buyer's checklist at
http://www.delorean.com/english/more/Downloads/downloads.asp



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack Janney [mailto:fastride_at_dml_mciworld.com]
> Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 5:45 PM
> Subject: [DML] Delorean for sale - low oil pressure
>
>
> Hi there.  I am new to the Delorean world.  I recently crashed my
> Buell S2T (motorcycle) and have decided it's maybe time to get
> off two wheels and into four.  I've owned a variety of
> 60s/70s/80s muscle and sports cars.  I started looking at
> Deloreans because they seem to be a very good value right now - I
> love the looks, and based on inflation, etc, in todays dollars
> new ones would be selling for about the cost of a Dodge Viper.
> Good condition 20K to 30K mile examples seem to be trading in the
> low to mid teens.
> There is an '81 for sale in my area that I'm considering.  It's a
> two owner car.  The twenty-something year old owners' father
> bought it new.  He's had it about 5 years and doesn't look like
> he's treated it exceptionaly well although claims it has always
> been garaged.  It's a fairly early car, build date is June 81 and
> vin is 2044, mileage is 32K.  He started out asking $14,000 but
> is now down to $12,000.  Stainless steel is very good, original
> wheels are good.  Leather on seats are as good as can be expected
> for being 20 years old.  Transmission shifts well in all gears,
> but clutch is very stiff, which leads me to believe it needs to
> be replaced?  There is some general wear and tear on the steering
> wheel hub, the leather piece on the drivers side that everyone
> seems to rub getting in and out.  General condition just looks
> like it has been neglected in recent years.  Oh, two things are
> broken.  The radio doesn't work, and the passenger window won't roll up.
> Here's the thing that has me questioning if I should even make an
> offer (I am thinking of offering $10,500).  The oil pressure at
> idle is half way between 0 and the first hash mark (10 psi?).
> Above idle it goes to about the third hash mark (60 psi?).
>
> So two questions for you owners out there.  Would the oil
> pressure at idle scare you away?  Is ~$11K a fair price for a car
> of this mileage and condition?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Jack Janney




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 20:14:45 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Continuing Voltage Problem revised

Joe, 
I will make this short and not so sweet. Look at my new web site at Talk and 
View I just added photo's of the dash work. www.specialTauto.com,,I also have 
the De Lorean 140 amp alternator. It will cure the woe's along with the fan 
fix. Between these two the voltage will be above 13 volts. Also, the De 
Lorean gauge reads about a 1/2 volt low. 
John
11004
6935
6568



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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 20:54:39 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Euro 2000

Well, time is growing nearer for the Euro 2000 show in Greenville, SC on the weekend of Oct. 21.  I thought that I would send this message to remind everyone about it - especially you guys in NC and Atlanta.  Here is the link to their web site where you can get all of the details:  http://www.euroautofestival.com/

I hope to see a lot of D's then as last year we only had 5 show up!

Sean Howley
VIN#2345


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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 23:18:46 EDT
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine cover

Yes John it is supposed pop up by itself.  Where it latches the mecahnism 
should cause it to pop up slightly.  Start checking there for the problem.

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360

<< I was wondering: How would you open the engine cover when you are alone? 
As 
 you know, I am not a DeLorean expert, but I need two people to open the 
 engine cover. I lift the louvres up, and they stay up, and when I pull the 
 engine cover-release, I need someone to lift it up. Is it supposed to pop up 
 by itself? 
 
 John Feldman
 VIN 4275
 Minnesota plate: 
 MY81DMC >>



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 03:38:11 -0000
From: "Ray Haug" <rdh_at_dml_hozt.com>
Subject: DeLorean Expo 2000 - Road to Rio!

The DeLorean Owners Association will hold the first DeLorean Expo of 
the Millennium in the ever popular Rio All-Suite Casino Resort in Las 
Vegas, Nevada on November 9 to 11, 2000. This will be our 8th visit 
to this "Entertainment Capital of the World" where over 200 members 
and enthusiasts attended this event in 1995. 

Complete information and on-line registration is available at:
http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/2000expo.html

Register by September 25 or pay 10% additional.

Contact the registration office at 805-964-5296 for phone 
registration.

All DeLorean owners and enthusiasts are welcome to join us.

Ray Haug
Internet Director






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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 22:56:26 -0500
From: "Steven Gilseth" <sgilseth_at_dml_minn.net>
Subject: RE: Engine cover

I have the same problem on my car.  I haven't determined the problem yet but
from a quick visual inspection on my car the rear facia is binding with the
engine cover.  Also one of the engine cover support pegs ( one on each
side ) is missing.  I am guessing that is why mine doesn't open.

My solution is I keep a piece of string in my car about three feet in length
that I loop around the engine cover latch and then by reaching in and
pulling the lever and the string at the sametime. Presto - I can open my
engine cover by myself.  Works for me until I can fix the real problem.

Steve
VIN #5982

-----Original Message-----
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 5:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Engine cover


I was wondering: How would you open the engine cover when you are alone? As
you know, I am not a DeLorean expert, but I need two people to open the
engine cover. I lift the louvres up, and they stay up, and when I pull the
engine cover-release, I need someone to lift it up. Is it supposed to pop up
by itself?

John Feldman
VIN 4275
Minnesota plate:
MY81DMC


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