From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:45 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 236

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There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Airco cycling
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net>

2. Tech Tips Document
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

3. Re: Hinges on engine cover
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

5. RE: Hinges on engine cover
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_performconsulting.com>

6. Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

7. !! DeLorean For Sale !!
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

8. Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)
From: heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net

9. Richmond Virginia Car Show
From: "Chris C" <petleech_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Starting
From: Dmcjal_at_dml_aol.com

12. Hydro-electric carpet
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

13. Hotstart Electrical problem
From: gschroe_at_dml_writeme.com

14. Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

15. Re: Automatic transmissions
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: Door lock diagram
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: RE: Carpet for a DeLorean
From: Robert Carl Ensfield <rcensfield_at_dml_voyager.net>

18. More from the strange headlight problem
From: sharkywtrs_at_dml_aol.com

19. Belt Rubbing
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>

20. Parts
From: Willie Mack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

21. Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Changeover part for side markers
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

23. New DeLorean Owners Directory available
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

24. Re: ABS Brakes and cross-drilled rotors
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 15:33:01 +0200
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Airco cycling

Hi,
About the radio... it is OK. All car radios made for US market have the
200kHz step. There is no way to get even numbers. The only way to have some
music over in Europe - replace the radio.
Sorry... I'm faced with the same problem myself. I will be shipping my D to
Europe and I will have to replace the radio... tapes get boring after a
while ;o).

Hope this helps.
Tom Niemczewski
tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net
vin 6298

----- Original Message -----
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
> I also have another "is it supposed to be like that question":
> My car still has the original Craig-radio (with the display on the
> cassette-door) and I wanted some music (I had a twoo hour drive ahead
> of me). The radio seems to default to .2 MHZ-steps while on FM.
> I wanted to tune into 96.8, but could only get 96.7 or 96.9
> as you can understand reception was terrible.

> Jan van de Wouw
> Think Different...   Use a Mac...
> Live the Dream...   Drive a DeLorean
>






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:22:49 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Tech Tips Document

[NOTE: I am posting this at the request of Moritz, who is having trouble
with his account.  Please direct your responses to Moritz, not to me or
the moderating team.  -Mike S.]

Dear DML'ers

About one and a half years ago I found on Duke's Homepage the Tech
Tips of Don Steger (DeLorean Motor Center). They were just scaned
images and hardly readable to me.
On a rainy saturday I transfered these images into a Microsoft Word
97 file, which I put on my homepage. I made not too much publicity
not to violate a copyright.
But I would be very happy if my work is of any help for someone.
You will find this file at
http://mypage.bluewin.ch/terminator2000/DeLorean/DeLorean.htm .

It has 2.8MB. I am sure there are still some typos in it because of the
scanning process. I can easily convert it into an other format (e.g.
RTF) if someone has problems reading it.
Hope this helps a little bit to the "The new DeLorean Manual Series
project".

Moritz, Switzerland
# Just a DeLorean enthusiast




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:41:07 EDT
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hinges on engine cover

I had a similar probelm.  To access the the inside bolts you do have to do so 
from the inside of the car.  You must remove the screws holding the hooks for 
the cargo net.  The back rear carpeted portion will then fold down.  You will 
now be able to access the engine cover bolts.

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360

<< How do you get to the bolts on the hinges on the deck side of the 
 engine cover.  I am going to replace mine as one on the cover side 
 has "lost" the stud  on the bolt and I now have a new pair.  (I still 
 have the stud and the bolt, but I don't know how to reattach it to 
 the hinge.)
 
 Looks like maybe you approach it through the inside of the car at the 
 rear deck but I am not positive.  Any help would be appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Scot
 6452 >>



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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 18:21:27 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)

Not to be rude or anything, but why in the world would you want ABS 
brakes installed? On my D I'm running fresh DOT4 brake fluid, X-
drilled rotors, semi-metalic brake pads, new shocks, and Yoko AVS 
tires. Stopping is not a problem for my car at all! So far it's saved 
me from drunk drivers, stupid drivers, garbage & other items flying 
off of trucks, pedestrians, and even animals. I guess what I'm trying 
to say here is before ripping somthing apart on the car in an attempt 
to replace it, why not simply improve upon it first? The braking 
system on the DeLorean is a damn good one! Granted that after 20 
years some parts need replacing, and some can be upgraded to even 
higher standards then before. I'm not someone who's looking for 
simply originality, but practicality. Just something to think about...

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Hi DML, since anti-lock brakes are on the subject plate, I figure 
I'd add my 
> .02$ Ok, what about anti-lock wheels from a saab? I know they 
probily will 
> only fit the front, but hey, its worth a try. I have my saab shop 
manuel 
> here, and it doesn't say much about it, but I will help as much as 
I can if 
> this is persuied. 89 and up they have them on them, i've only 
worked on 88 
> at the highest, so i've never seen any in person.
> But as it looks here, you have to swich the whole caliper.
> (shrug) I don't know, just a crazy idea from my head.
> John
>                          __      __
>                            \____/
>                            /____\
>                            0    0
>                           DeLorean
> 
> >From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_h...>
> 
> >Subject: [DML] ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)
> 
>  [SNIPPED BY MODERATOR]
> 
> >As a side note, thinking of what you said about being "locked up 
on all 4
> >wheels", I was wondering if there is a possibility to get ABS 
(anti-lock
> >brakes) for the DeLorean. I'm not a mechanic, but could it be done?
> >
> >If it can be done, then how much $$$ is involved? Just curious....
> >
> >A modification from the stock DeLorean, yes, but this is something 
more -
> >its a safety issue...
> >
> >Hope to hear some good answers!
> >
> >Best wishes
> >Stian Birkeland
> >Norway
> >
> >VIN # 06759




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 09:59:53 -0400
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_performconsulting.com>
Subject: RE: Hinges on engine cover

Scot,
You do have to go from the inside of the car and remove the cover just underneath the window to get at the other hinge bolts.  I had lost a stud off of my hinge as well.  I had my rusted hinges sandblasted, and one of my machinist friends reattached the stud using "silver solder."  I wasn't so sure this would hold up well, but it seems to be fine.  I repainted the hinges with a rust inhibiting primer coat and a semi flat black top coat and they still look great 3 years later.  Hope this helps.

Eric
VIN 17065

>How do you get to the bolts on the hinges on the deck side of the 
>engine cover.  I am going to replace mine as one on the cover side 
>has "lost" the stud  on the bolt and I now have a new pair.  (I still 
>have the stud and the bolt, but I don't know how to reattach it to 
>the hinge.)
<SNIP>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 14:22:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)

On Tue, 26 Sep 2000, Fronzel Neekburm wrote:

> Hi DML, since anti-lock brakes are on the subject plate, I figure I'd
> add my .02$ Ok, what about anti-lock wheels from a saab? I know they

Switching to anti-lock brakes is a very major conversion.  You will have
to swap almost the whole braking system from the donor car, and since ABS
systems are electronically controlled you'll need the electronics too.  
Modern ABS systems are often controlled by or interact with the engine
computer, which would make such a swap a prohibitive nuisance.  You would
have better luck with an early ABS system from some mid-80's car with
simpler electronics.

That said, I think you are better off to take a performance driving school
and learn how to do threshold braking.  A driver skilled in braking
nuances can often get better stopping distances in the same car without
ABS vs. with it.  And as a bonus, you get a set of driving skills that
works in any care you might drive.  Yes, these can be expensive - but
probably cheaper than an ABS conversion :}




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:30:56 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: !! DeLorean For Sale !!

As James said when he sold his car, hell has frozen over (actually I am
trying to buy a house), and so my DeLorean is now for sale.  Not to over use
the list, check out http://www.babbtechnology.com/forsale/index.htm for
information) PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE.

Also, if there are any list members out there that have seen my car and
would be interested in providing a testimonial on what you observed, please
send me an e-mail so that I have some other people's ideas on the condition
of my car.  I can be reached at michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com (michael at
babbtechnology.com for digest viewers).

Thanks!

Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA, CCNA
michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com
www.babbtechnology.com
1981 DeLorean VIN 3472




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:21:49 -0000
From: heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net
Subject: Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)


Because even with your enhanced braking system, ABS would be able to 
improve stopping distances.  Under a panic or hard braking stop, your 
brakes will still lock-up.  ABS just makes a good braking system 
better, rather then depending on driver skill (or lack thereof) to 
stop a car as quickly as possible. MHO.

-Hank

> Not to be rude or anything, but why in the world would you want ABS 
> brakes installed? On my D I'm running fresh DOT4 brake fluid, X-
> drilled rotors, semi-metalic brake pads, new shocks, and Yoko AVS 
> tires.




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:42:17 -0000
From: "Chris C" <petleech_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Richmond Virginia Car Show

I have to say that this, being my first show was excellent. I 
attended the tech session on Saturday at Jack's place and would like 
to thank him profoundly for letting us use it. I would also like to 
thank Rob Grady and Bob Miller for strongly advising me not to 
tighten up my torsion bar. Perhaps I learned more than I would hae 
liked when Rob Grady pointed out my front drivers door hinge was 
cracked and was about to snap, since then I have gotten a new hinge 
at a very good price from Bob Miller who personally delivered it very 
graciously and soon I will be able to enter through the drivers door 
again!!! Thanks once again for wonderful show and tech session and I 
can't forget the food which Dave Sontos made possible and was very 
good. Thanks.




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:11:52 GMT
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)


I concur. Simply modifying your exsisting braking system with newer 
components would suffice. If you want better stopping capacity you could 
switch to oversized calipers, cross-drilled rotors and a tighter suspension. 
ABS systems employ computers and hydralic sytesms upgrades that sound 
prohibitivly expensive.

It would be cheaper to invest in one of those performance/defensive driver 
courses where they teach you how to handle your car. (No offense) But I 
thought I was a good driver, until I went to one of these classes. That 
instruction more than any braking system or modification has saved my tail 
from several high speed incidents.

These courses are alot of fun. You get to "race" around the track once after 
and couple hours of instruction. Then the instructor takes your vehicle 
around (with you in it) and shows you how to draw your line, then you go 
around again and you see how your times improve. Then they take you out to a 
skid track (their fleet vehicle) and you spin 180 and 360 etc...

This would be a great inexpensive place to have a DMC meet. The place I went 
to was in VA. It was a few years ago, but it only cost like $200 for the 
day.

ciao,
dr c.


From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 18:21:27 -0000

Not to be rude or anything, but why in the world would you want ABS
brakes installed? On my D I'm running fresh DOT4 brake fluid, X-
drilled rotors, semi-metalic brake pads, new shocks, and Yoko AVS
tires. Stopping is not a problem for my car at all! So far it's saved
me from drunk drivers, stupid drivers, garbage & other items flying
off of trucks, pedestrians, and even animals. I guess what I'm trying
to say here is before ripping somthing apart on the car in an attempt
to replace it, why not simply improve upon it first? The braking
system on the DeLorean is a damn good one! Granted that after 20
years some parts need replacing, and some can be upgraded to even
higher standards then before. I'm not someone who's looking for
simply originality, but practicality. Just something to think about...

-Robert
vin 6585





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Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
http://profiles.msn.com.




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 18:21:47 EDT
From: Dmcjal_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Starting

Starts great cold.

Starts  very slow after sitting for 10 minutes when hot (cranking speed fine).

Have replaced fuel pump and accumulator and still have problem.

Suggestions?????



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:00:02 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Hydro-electric carpet

Hello,
    I just ordered a carpet kit from Hydro electric about a month ago.  I 
only have it 1/2 way in but it seems to fit nicely.  I had the dark grey 
carpet in my car but I went with a light grey to brighten up the inside a 
bit.  ordering one piece from them probably wouldnt look very nice since they 
are not stitched the same way as the originals.  They have a color that is 
close to the orignal but not exact.(charcoal I think it is)  I wonder why 
they cant make the sets anymore.  call them again and tell them a customer 
recently bought one from them.  it took a long time for it to come but it 
finally did.  They even have DeLorean listed in there new catalog.  

later
David-
#2496-is meeting Bricklin#0001 this week!



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 23:55:27 -0000
From: gschroe_at_dml_writeme.com
Subject: Hotstart Electrical problem

I have been chasing a hotstart problem in my DMC vin 716, for some 
time.  Suffice it to say, the car runs for a few miles, stalls, and 
won't start until it is cold, 2-4+ hours later.  Usually the stall 
occurs as I am slowing for a corner or a stop, but this has occured 
also while the car is sitting still and running.  

While inspecting my fuel supply suffice it to say I found initial 
problems and decided to change out the fuel pump, repair a totally 
loose pickup in my fuel tank (See the PS below for info on a great 
way to re-attach the bolt holding the fuel pickup to the tank 
bottom), and replaced the fuel filter all as part of my general 20 
year maintenance and upkeep plan.  But to no real avail.  Upon 
further inspection, I discovered during one of these hot start events 
that the car was actually loosing spark.  I verified this using a 
timimg light, and when the car failed, from that point on I had no 
timing light signal when recranking the engine, until it cooled 
down.  

I verified that I have power to the Postive coil terminal when the 
key is on, both when the car won't start and when it does (In the 
hotstart problem or under regular conditions).  I don't expect this 
is a coil problem (but it's easier to change then the induction coil) 
so I will try a different coil this evening for grins).  

I suspect this may actually be an Induction Coil problem (located in 
the bottom of the distributor), and I tested across the leads from 
this Induction coil (this connector penetrates the firewall on the 
lower driver side into the compartment where the driving computer is) 
while the car was failing, and I got no reading (an open) on the ohm 
meter at that time.  I understand that a properly performing 
induction coil should not read open when tested.  I did not have the 
opportunity to test my induction coil again after the car sat, but I 
will perform this test this evening.  

I have also heard that induction coil problems cause the car to start 
just as the tow truck driver arrives, which is very close to the 
situation I am faced.  It is just not the easiest item to get to and 
replace, so I am asking for input or advice from anyone who has had 
or heard of a similar instance.  Help!  and  Thanks!



PS:  To reattach the unattached bolt (that holds the fuel pickup 
assembly) to the bottom of the DRY!!! gas tank.  First: Empty the gas 
tank (duh) and let the tank completely dry out.  Remove the bolt from 
the fuel pickup, clean it extremly well, and connect this unattached 
bolt to a 1/4 inch rod (12"-18" long) using a long nut coupler that 
is readily available at any hardware store.  Using a propane torch 
(well away from any gas or car for that matter) heat the unattached 
bolt 20 - 30 seconds (not red hot damn hot) and quickly insert the 
bolt at the end of this rod back into the tank and press it (melt it) 
back into the bottom of the tank near the original location.  I did 
not locate it in exactly the same location, since I felt the tank was 
thinner at that location, and I didn't want to melt through the 
tank.  I practiced on the side of a plastic bucket a few times, but 
found the tank to be able to handle heat better then the bucket.  
Push it into the tank until the top of the washer like end of the 
bolt melts itself flush with the plastic.  The holes will fill with 
melted plastic like small rivets, and it holds well.  You want to go 
just deep enough to get this rivet action and be even with the tank 
surface, no deeper.  Have a small wet rag avail to stop the melting 
if necessary.  I had (but didn't need) a glass of water available.  
In the end I needed a glass of beer, but it was way easier then I 
imagined, and much easier and inexpensive then changing out a good 
gas tank.   

It sounds a bit strange, but when I was through I had a strong 
attachment, and the realization that this was most likely how the 
original attachment was made in the tank during production.  
questions, send me an email!     



|
|---||||------------------------
|
Orig-Nut-       1/4 rod
Part


 




   




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:15:32 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)

In some cars with very modern up-to-date ABS systems, you can consistently
get slightly better braking distances with ABS. There aren't that many of
them where that is true. That said, I agree that the driving school is
better for a number of reasons. I doubt that the D could be set up with
THAT good of an ABS system without spending more on it than the car itself
is worth. And the driving skills you learn go far beyond threshold braking.

Look into a local autocross club. They will quite often hold a novice
school in the spring of the year before the new season kicks off. Cost is
quite often less than $50 in most areas. You can locate local clubs at
http://www.autocross.com/   After you've taken the novice class, or even if
you don't, then attending a few of autocrosses is also very good for your
driving skills, as well as being a blast! 

Mark N
VIN 6820
Autocross your DeLorean in St. Louis on October 22nd. Details at
http://www.midstatedmc.com/  under events.

At 02:22 PM 9/27/00 -0400, William T Wilson wrote:
<snip>
>That said, I think you are better off to take a performance driving school
>and learn how to do threshold braking.  A driver skilled in braking
>nuances can often get better stopping distances in the same car without
>ABS vs. with it.  And as a bonus, you get a set of driving skills that
>works in any care you might drive.  Yes, these can be expensive - but
>probably cheaper than an ABS conversion :}



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:34:23 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Automatic transmissions

David,

We tried your test; we held the break and slowly pushed the accelerator
pedal to the floor as you instructed. At about 12 seconds into the test we
heard this frightening squeal coming from the transmission area, all of a
sudden the transmission torque converter ripped through the bell housing
with flames and boiling transmission fluid spraying everywhere as it smashed
through the center console and shot out through the front windshield, coming
to rest a mile and half down the road.

David, I'm a big supporter of any research project that improves the safety
or performance of the DeLorean, however I think it would be wiser for you to
conduct this experiment on your DeLorean and than let the rest of us know
the results.

Yes; the first paragraph of this post is fictitious.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 11:45 PM
Subject: [DML] Automatic transmissions


> [MODERATOR NOTE: IT IS PROBABLY POSSIBLE TO DO SOME DAMAGE TO YOUR CAR OR
NEIGHBORHOOD BY CONDUCTING THIS TEST IMPROPERLY, ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE
NEVER HEARD OF IT BEFORE.  I'M ALLOWING THE POST FOR ITS POTENTIAL
INTELLECTUAL VALUE. -Mike S.]
>
>
> To the List
>
> I need help in developing a specifaction for the stall speed of the
> torque converter. It does not require any mechanical ability just a
> good running car with an automatic transmission.
> DO NOT DO THIS TEST IF YOU ARE NOT COMPLETLY COMFORTABLE WITH THIS
> PROCEDURE!
>
> 1) warm up car with a drive of at least 5 miles
> 2) park car where there is nothing in front and away from any people
> 3) set parking brake and hold down brake pedal
> 4) with engine idling shift into "D"
> 5) smoothly push accelerater pedal all the way to floor
> 6) when engine speed is stable note reading on tachometer
> 7) release accelerater pedal smoothly ( don't hold to floor for more
> than 20 seconds)
> 8) move shift to park and hold the engin rpm's at 1000 for 30 seconds
> at least to cool motor.
> 9) do not repeat again for at least 5 min
> 10) do this test at least twice to confirm results.
> This is also a good test for the engine as it gives a rough
> indication
>  if it is capable of full power output.
> If you will do this and then either post the results or e-mail me I
> will keep track and post a spec for the list.
>
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> e-mail address jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
>





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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:38:15 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Door lock diagram

Erik,

The red power lead from the door lock module plugs into the circuit breaker
located just behind the module. The clicking you heard are the relays
opening and closing inside the module. If you hear no sound coming from the
doors its likely that both lock solenoids are NG. Keep in mind that the
solenoids are almost 20 years old and have already been damaged by the
factory
installed lock module.

You would be better off purchasing the Lockzilla and a new solenoids. Keep
in mind that you damaged solenoids are worth $25 each as core exchanges.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Erik Geerdink <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 8:10 AM
Subject: [DML] Door lock diagram


> HI,
> My automatic door locks have never worked, partly because they were
> never plugged in (since I bought the car).  Last night I went to test
> it to see if the solinoids were fried for not.  I connected the big
> groups of wires to the appropriate place, but then there is one more
> wire coming out of the door rely (is it a relay?)  Could someone tell
> me where to plug this in?  I saw a place where I think it would go,
> but when I plugged it in all I got was a clicking when I locked the
> doors, but they both didn't lock.  Anyone have any ideas?  If I can
> get this to work and if I don't have to get new solinoids then I want
> to get a lock zilla.
> Thanks
>
> Erik Geerdink
> 04512






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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:04:05 -0500
From: Robert Carl Ensfield <rcensfield_at_dml_voyager.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Carpet for a DeLorean

>Hello List,
>There was a gentlemen on this list who recommended a company call
>Hydro-Electric. From what I understand they make reproduction carpet
>kits.
[QUOTATION SNIPPED BY MODERATOR]

Dear Mike,

        I got a set of grey carpets from Hydro-Lectric 6 months ago...They 
are an older company that I don't think  has been using e-mail long..they 
do carpets better than Internet...carpet color  matched well with what was 
in my car..when I called them and asked they said they did not do OEM style 
vinyl trim on carpet, but when the carpets came, there it was..   Their 
patterns are excellent..very little waste..no pieces too short...  Only 
thing different was the pieces over rear wheel came seamed in the middle.. 
the ones in my car were one piece..I didn't complain 'cause I wasn't sure 
which was correct..
         They were nice folks to deal with.... I would recommend them 
highly..I'm sure they can change the  wheel well pieces if asked...the 
color was  medium dark grey  #868  ..the invoice number was 91649 if they 
can't find it..  The first two people I talked to said they couldn't do it 
but it came out great!
                                                         Good luck,
                                                          Bob



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:16:41 EDT
From: sharkywtrs_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: More from the strange headlight problem

Ok, at everyone's suggestion, I pulled off the A/C panel and messed with the 
headlight switch, no good.  The headlights still don't come on.  BUT!!  The 
high beams come on fine.  Parking lights come on fine.   Everything works BUT 
the low beams.  Any help as always is greatly appreciated!

Scott



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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:07:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Belt Rubbing

>     From: Willie Mack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
>  
>  Alright, a couple of questions....

[QUOTE SNIPPED & SUBJECT ADDED BY MODERATOR]  

>  Also i noticed that the belt for the alternator or ac
> (its on the left when your looking at the engine) has
> a small worn spot down the center from where it looks
> like its making contact with another pully.  Anyone had
> this happen before?
>  Thanks
>    Willie
>  Vin 5043

Willie, 
  The belt on the left as you look at the engine from the rear of the car is
the A/C belt.(Should be driving the big A/C compressor on top). Anyways,
check the water pump in the rear center of the engine. It might have an
extra groove on it outside for another belt. This may be the rubbing the
groove on your A/C belt. It is my understanding that this is a Volvo water
pump and on Volvo the A/C belt is routed there instead of to the crankshaft
on the Delorean.
   Mine only rubs slightly, so it is probably not worth replacing the water
pump for it. However, you need to check if it is constently making contact
and will need to be changed(so it doesn't chew belts all the time).

Nate


Nathan E. Green
gzen21_at_dml_excite.com

"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"



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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 23:05:56 -0400
From: Willie Mack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Parts

i am looking for a car that i can get parts of does anyone of one?  the part
that i am really looking for in the lower canopy, that goes around the
steering column.  DMC Houston and Delorean One are both out of this part.
Thanks
  Willie
   5043




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 03:21:42 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)

Installing abs brakes on a car that wasn't origionaly equipped with 
them is a major undertaking. Even if you were able to find a donor
car that would be similar, if the system is not set up and balanced just 
right you would actually be making the car less safe. I dare say that 
no person on the list has the resources to properly test and certify 
the system to satisfy the federal authorities and the insurance 
companies as to the intergration of the upgraded braking system. You 
might as well try to install an airbag system. The potential 
liabilities would be immense.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


[REPEAT QUOTATION SNIPPED BY MODERATOR]



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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:30:01 -0500
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Changeover part for side markers

When I bought my car my left front marker light was burned out.  I tried
replacing it to find the bulb 100% rusted into the holder.  Nothing I
did would get it out, so I had to cut it off.  I went to several
automotive stores to look through their bulb holders.  I did not find an
exact match, but I did find one similar.

I'll try to describe what the real DeLorean part looks like, but dont be
surprised if there are some small differences.  The holder is all metal,
with a universal -small bulb- socket in it.  The positive line is
soldered to the bottom center of the socket, and the ground is soldered
to the side of the chassis of the socket.  The socket is held in place
to the marker lens by spring "clips" which are arranged in a circular
pattern around the top of the socket.  These fit snugly into the marker
lens holding it in place.

The part I found was very similar to this, only it did not have a ground
wire.  On this socket, the ground was connected through the spring
clips, and the chassis was made out of plastic.  I had to cut a notch
out of the side of the plastic to wedge in a ground wire to connect to
the DeLorean's harness.  If you can find I part that looks similar to
this in a local parts store, you may be in luck, but still may need to
do some modifications.  Just bring in one of your marker lens assemblies
to compare the socket size.

Of course, my left front marker lens is now shattered, but at least the
light still works!!!  Good luck finding the part.

> 
> PS. anyone know of a changeover-part for the bulb-holders for the side-markers?
> They're part of the harness and on "Dagger" some have rusted through since they didn't
> have any bulbs in them (removed by previous owner).
> Since I live in the Netherlands I'd prefer if the parts where available in Europe...
> 

-- 
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169



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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:30:17 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: New DeLorean Owners Directory available

  Hi Everyone.

The newest edition of the DeLorean Owners Directory is completed and
available on the DMCnews website at:

http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html

You have to be in the Directory in order to qualify to receive a copy. To
check this, read and follow the instructions on the web page. The listing
contains everyone who has submitted their information prior to 9/18/2000.

If you already have password access to the list it should still apply. 

If you have any questions, contact me at:

mailto:directory_at_dml_dmcnews.com

=======================================================
Ken Montgomery	Sacramento, CA  VIN #10911  'OUTTIME'
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean/delorean01.htm
mailto:kenm_at_dml_csus.edu
Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://members.tripod.com/ncdmc/
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com  mailto:directory_at_dml_dmcnews.com
=======================================================



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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 05:29:08 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: ABS Brakes and cross-drilled rotors

Robert & other list members...

Where do you get cross-drilled brake rotors?

Also, from what I've heard about ABS breaks, when it was a new technology,
the insurance industry was pushing them (along with air bags) to be required
on all new cars.  In theory and on the test track, they work great.  But in
analyzing actual accident statistics, they do not help.  In other words,
cars equipped with ABS breaks are no less likely to be involved in an
accident than cars without.

Go figure!

Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Rooney <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 5:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: ABS Brakes (Was: Accident)


>Not to be rude or anything, but why in the world would you want ABS
>brakes installed? On my D I'm running fresh DOT4 brake fluid, X-
>drilled rotors, semi-metalic brake pads, new shocks, and Yoko AVS
>tires.
(snip) <zzzap!>




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