From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 5:21 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 240

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Speedometer Readings
From: billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Changeover part for side markers
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com

3. Looking for a few good "Lugs"
From: billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com

4. Wheels/"Gassing Out"
From: billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com

5. AUTOFEST
From: spooky312_at_dml_aol.com

6. Lee's Model Kit
From: "John G Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_toast.net>

7. Re: Hotstart Electrical problem
From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol_at_dml_ici.net>

8. Headlight high/low beams
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

9. First Tampa Delorean Club meeting
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

10. Low profile rims & tires
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

11. Re: DeLorean Design
From: Hisham Khalifa <hishamak_at_dml_batelco.com.bh>

12. Re: Lee's Model Kit
From: sharkywtrs_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Re: DeLorean Design
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins_at_dml_businessnet.net>

14. Re: Lee's Model Kit
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Lee's Model Kit
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc_at_dml_i-55.com>

16. WARNING!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: DeLorean Time LLC in Newspaper
From: "Robert S. Rodgers" <rsrodgers_at_dml_home.com>

18. Re: Speedometer Readings
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

19. Re: AUTOFEST
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

20. Re: Cooling Fan Problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

21. Re: Speedometer Readings
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

22. Re: Headlight high/low beams
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

23. Re: Lee's Model Kit
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

24. RE: Lee's Model Kit
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

25. Cooling Fan Update
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 21:51:36 EDT
From: billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Speedometer Readings


   After putting on my new Yoko AVS tires I noticed that it seemed my 
speedomter was registering faster speeds than my previous tires. I know the 
tires on the rear (235/60VR-15) were quite a bit larger in tire height than 
my old ones. The 195/60R-14 front tires are close to what I had on before. My 
question is would the larger rear tires cause my speedometer reading to be 
off? Do I need to calibrate the speedometer? Thanks

Bill (11096)






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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 21:23:35 EDT
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Changeover part for side markers

I replaced mine with part#84803 17mm side marker socket for 1984-94 Honda or 
Acura.  I purchased mine from Pepboys and it's only a few dollars.  It's a 
perfect fit.
I hope this help.
Bill K



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 21:58:42 EDT
From: billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Looking for a few good "Lugs"


  Since I have redone my wheels I am in need of some better lug nuts than I 
have right now. I was hoping maybe someone out there in DML land might have 
16 original issue lug nuts on a parts car they would be willing to sell. I 
will be glad to give up the old semi rusted ones to hold the parts car wheels 
on if I can get one lug nut that is an average sampling of the condition of 
the lug nuts that you might be able to offer to sell. Thanks

Bill (11096)

Looking for better lugs



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 21:14:04 EDT
From: billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Wheels/"Gassing Out"

Hi All,

   A follow up to my original message on the chrome powder coated wheels. I 
got the wheels back this afternoon and had my new tires and wheels mounted 
and back on the "D" by this evening. The wheels and tires look great but what 
an adventure it turned out to be.

What should have been a two day experience turned out to be over a week. The 
first time the wheels were powder coated they looked like some one threw sand 
on them and powder coated over them. Not a good thing. We sanded them down 
and reshot the powder two days later. The results were worse the second time. 
I was about to give up and paint them when the owner mentioned he thought the 
wheels were "Gassing Out". Being new to powder coating I played it cool and 
decided to listen instead of guessing what that ment. He explained to me that 
my alloy wheels must have taken on some impurities during the time the paint 
had peeled off the wheels. This then required the wheels be baked at least 6 
hours to insure the impurities (now a gas product) could be cooked off. As it 
turned out they cooked them for about 16 hours and the wheels still had a 
very small amount of "Gassing out". But I can live with the 98% perfect job. 
So if you decide to powder coat and you have had paint peel off for any time 
make sure you cure the wheels for many hours. Also one last tip. My powder 
coating place highly suggested using spray wax on the wheels as soon as 
possible to keep the wheels in top condition. Hope this is of value to those 
who my be considering powder coating your wheels.

Bill (11096)

"Wheels that looking like a dream"



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 00:32:35 EDT
From: spooky312_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: AUTOFEST

I am sorry if this was already brought up but I was wondering if anyone knows 
how many DMC's are supposed to be at autofest in Evansville, IN. I would 
really love to see one in the "metal" before I die. I have idolized the car 
forever and I haven't been able to see one because I have been stuck in this 
endless abyss for all my life. Thank you for your time and information.

Rachel



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 01:24:35 -0400
From: "John G Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_toast.net>
Subject: Lee's Model Kit

Is anybody else still waiting on their Delorean Model Kit from Lee Seiler?  It's been almost 2 years since I paid for mine.  I tried to email Lee a month ago but didn't get a reply.  Just curious.  

JOHN in Toledo
VIN# 4945


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 01:58:33 -0700
From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol_at_dml_ici.net>
Subject: Re: Hotstart Electrical problem

Absolutely had the identical problem.  The car would run (in Massachusetts
winter) for ten to fifteen minutes, then die sometimes while running, or
would not start after a five or ten minute run into a store or whatever.
The car would not start for about two hours when the outside temperature was
about 20 degrees F.  After it cooled down it would start and run for another
ten minutes.

  I could not believe that a bad coil (the goofy cheap one in the
distributor, a real pain to replace) was only a bad coil when hot.  Once I
replaced it, everything was back to normal.

  Good luck,

  Mike.


-----Original Message-----
From: gschroe_at_dml_writeme.com <gschroe_at_dml_writeme.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Date: Thursday, September 28, 2000 6:24 AM
Subject: [DML] Hotstart Electrical problem


>I have been chasing a hotstart problem in my DMC vin 716, for some
>time.  Suffice it to say, the car runs for a few miles, stalls, and
>won't start until it is cold, 2-4+ hours later.  Usually the stall
>occurs as I am slowing for a corner or a stop, but this has occured
>also while the car is sitting still and running.
>
>While inspecting my fuel supply suffice it to say I found initial
>problems and decided to change out the fuel pump, repair a totally
>loose pickup in my fuel tank (See the PS below for info on a great
>way to re-attach the bolt holding the fuel pickup to the tank
>bottom), and replaced the fuel filter all as part of my general 20
>year maintenance and upkeep plan.  But to no real avail.  Upon
>further inspection, I discovered during one of these hot start events
>that the car was actually loosing spark.  I verified this using a
>timimg light, and when the car failed, from that point on I had no
>timing light signal when recranking the engine, until it cooled
>down.
>
>I verified that I have power to the Postive coil terminal when the
>key is on, both when the car won't start and when it does (In the
>hotstart problem or under regular conditions).  I don't expect this
>is a coil problem (but it's easier to change then the induction coil)
>so I will try a different coil this evening for grins).
>
>I suspect this may actually be an Induction Coil problem (located in
>the bottom of the distributor), and I tested across the leads from
>this Induction coil (this connector penetrates the firewall on the
>lower driver side into the compartment where the driving computer is)
>while the car was failing, and I got no reading (an open) on the ohm
>meter at that time.  I understand that a properly performing
>induction coil should not read open when tested.  I did not have the
>opportunity to test my induction coil again after the car sat, but I
>will perform this test this evening.
>
>I have also heard that induction coil problems cause the car to start
>just as the tow truck driver arrives, which is very close to the
>situation I am faced.  It is just not the easiest item to get to and
>replace, so I am asking for input or advice from anyone who has had
>or heard of a similar instance.  Help!  and  Thanks!
>
>
>
>PS:  To reattach the unattached bolt (that holds the fuel pickup
>assembly) to the bottom of the DRY!!! gas tank.  First: Empty the gas
>tank (duh) and let the tank completely dry out.  Remove the bolt from
>the fuel pickup, clean it extremly well, and connect this unattached
>bolt to a 1/4 inch rod (12"-18" long) using a long nut coupler that
>is readily available at any hardware store.  Using a propane torch
>(well away from any gas or car for that matter) heat the unattached
>bolt 20 - 30 seconds (not red hot damn hot) and quickly insert the
>bolt at the end of this rod back into the tank and press it (melt it)
>back into the bottom of the tank near the original location.  I did
>not locate it in exactly the same location, since I felt the tank was
>thinner at that location, and I didn't want to melt through the
>tank.  I practiced on the side of a plastic bucket a few times, but
>found the tank to be able to handle heat better then the bucket.
>Push it into the tank until the top of the washer like end of the
>bolt melts itself flush with the plastic.  The holes will fill with
>melted plastic like small rivets, and it holds well.  You want to go
>just deep enough to get this rivet action and be even with the tank
>surface, no deeper.  Have a small wet rag avail to stop the melting
>if necessary.  I had (but didn't need) a glass of water available.
>In the end I needed a glass of beer, but it was way easier then I
>imagined, and much easier and inexpensive then changing out a good
>gas tank.
>
>It sounds a bit strange, but when I was through I had a strong
>attachment, and the realization that this was most likely how the
>original attachment was made in the tank during production.
>questions, send me an email!
>
>
>
>|
>|---||||------------------------
>|
>Orig-Nut-       1/4 rod
>Part
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 05:34:27 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Headlight high/low beams

I have a safety question:
Why do the low beams shut off when the high beams are turned on?  Isn't it
kind of stupid to run with half the lights off?  The two inner bulbs are
meant to be high beams only.  The two outer bulbs have two filaments each:
one for high beam, one for low beam.  The Delorean wiring is configured to
only run one or the other set of filaments, but not both at the same time.
Why?  Does this produce too much heat in the bulb to have it put out twice
as much wattage?

In an aftermarket truck catalog, I saw a relay module & wiring harness for
sale that keeps the low beams on while the high beams are on.  So I know it
is done in other cars as an aftermarket thing, but why aren't cars made like
this?  Are they trying to conserve electricity?

Another point is that if you pull the turn signal lever toward you, it
flashes the brights while at the same time leaving the low beams on.  So why
not leave the low beams on while you latch the lever forward?

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 05:37:30 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: First Tampa Delorean Club meeting

I suppose that if you get two Deloreans together at one time owned by
different people, then that constitutes a club meeting?  Well, we just did
that in Tampa.  Me and Brian went over to Randy's house and had pizza for
dinner.  We crawled over and under each other's car trying to compare notes.
I noticed that Randy's car has the transmission cooler bypassed.  I think
there might be an aftermarket cooler installed in front of the radiator (I
hope so), but I'll have to look for one at the next 'club' meeting.

We took Randy's door panel apart and adjusted his exterior door handle to
open the door better.  Thanks to DMC Joe who showed me how to do this at 'A
day in the Doors'.  We also found that the lock nut for the adjustment of
the rear door latch had come loose and allowed it to vibrate out of
adjustment.  It took a bit of trial & error to find the best adjustment.
Now Randy says his door works 150% better.

We drove the cars a few miles away and then swapped drivers.  It was really
cool driving someone else's Delorean.  Randy's car accelerates much better
than mine.  Some of that was due to his a/c not working, but even with my
a/c off, his would easily beat mine.  Half the time I would forget that I
was driving a different Delorean.  That was a real freaky feeling.

We stopped for gas.  I filled my tank all the way and then noticed a large
puddle under the car.  It was gas spilling from the tank!  At that point,
Randy decided he would switch back to driving his own car.  (snicker)  It
appears that the leak in my tank is from the filler hose.  Once the gas
leaked to below the hose, it quit running out.  At it's worst, it kept a
steady stream running under the car.  That was scary.  I'm glad I keep a
fire extinguisher in the 'back seat'.

Randy thought that my car steered better.  His felt like it had more play in
it.  My steering feels very tight, but tends to move easier.  And I thought
my steering was stiff.  I think that's just the nature of the beast.

To finish the day off, I come home to find that my new personalized license
plate came in the mail.  It says, 'WATSDAT'.  I got the idea from someone
else on the list who has WAWAZAT.  Imitation is the sincerest form of
flattery.  No? :)

Definately living a dream,

Walt    Tampa, FL






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 05:47:43 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Low profile rims & tires

I finally got the new rims and tires on my Delorean.  It took a few weeks to
get the spacers for the rear wheels right, but now I finally got them!

What I got are TSW brand one-piece alloy rims in the Imola style.  The rear
rims are 17"x8".  The front rims are 16"x7".  The front tires are Falken
brand model 18-81-FLK 151680 with dimensions 205/40R16 _at_dml_ $115.00 each, and
the rear tires are 18-81-FLK 151784 with dimensions 245/45R17 _at_dml_ $139.00
each.  These tires are rotation specific which means you shouldn't run a
tire meant for the right side of the car on the left side.  My first choice
was Yokohama brand since I have read such good things about them on the DML,
but they cost about $20 more per tire and the warranty wasn't as good.
Besides, that recommendation was for mounting tires on OEM rims.  These rims
are sort of treading on new ground.

I'll post pictures somewhere once I get the front suspension lowered.  Until
then, you can check out the TSW web site at www.tsw.com   They have a
picture of what the Imola looks like.  This was not my first choice for
rims.  I wanted the Big Deep or Revo style, but they didn't make them in the
4 lug pattern that could be made to fit the Delorean.  It turned out that
the only set of one-piece rims that the store could sell me was the TSW
Imola.  There were plenty of other choices in multi-piece rims, but I wanted
the strength and quality that goes with a one piece.

Final price out the door including taxes and all the hidden charges:
$1,932.81
(These are VERY nice rims.)

The front tires needed no spacers, but the rear wheels did.  The spacers
were custom made locally to fit the application.  On the first try, the
machinist didn't know about the center hub, so we had to send them back to
make the hole in the center bigger to fit the hub.  When we got them back,
the machinist made the cut deep enough, but not quite wide enough.  So we
had to send them back again to take more metal off.  That worked.

The front tire diameters are the same as OEM, but the new rear tire diameter
causes the car to sit 1/8th of an inch lower than OEM (yeah, big deal.)  If
I went with the next size larger tire, it would have been 1/8th inch in the
other direction, but the tire would be too wide to reliably fit the rim.

As far as handling goes, I have two problems.  The first is that the front
rims are an inch wider than OEM.  I didn't know this when I ordered them.  I
thought I was getting OEM dimensions.  This extra inch of width extends
deeper into the wheel well instead of sticking further out the sides of the
car.  A visual comparison between mine and Randy's car confirmed this.  The
problem lies in the fact that the inside of the wheel hits the sway bar
sooner than the OEM wheel.  This means that my turning radius is reduced.  A
little nasty part of this problem is that it is the metal part of the rim
that hits the sway bar and not the tire part as it does on the OEM wheel.

Yes!  The OEM tires rub the sway bar!  Why?  I don't know.  Either this is a
design flaw in the Delorean or it was meant to be a 'wheel stop'.  I suppose
that if the wheel didn't rub the sway bar, then perhaps something else would
eventually stop the steering movement by hitting or binding some other
part -- which could be bad.  I am going to look into this to find a fix.  I
showed Randy & Brian the spots on my sway bar where the OEM wheels rubbed &
polished the area.  Next to those were new shiny spots where the new rims
are hitting.  Randy looked at that and said that he didn't think his wheels
hit the sway bar.  I got under there with a flashlight and saw the same wear
pattern as on my car, so it is reasonable to assume that all Deloreans have
wheels that hit the sway bar.

What I intend to do is come up with a custom designed sway-bar with a
different geometry that will allow wider rims to fit and perhaps allow OEM
wheels to not hit the sway bar either.  The problem is -- I need to find out
if the OEM wheels are supposed to hit and rub the sway bar on sharp turns.
If a new sway bar with a different geometry were installed to give the wheel
more room to turn, then perhaps some other two parts under the car could
touch and cause problems.  Does anyone know if this is the case?  Or am I
the pioneer here?

If the wheel is supposed to hit the sway bar and must hit it or cause damage
else where, then I have two possible fixes that I will look into.  One is to
mount a stopping pad somewhere in the steering.  The other will be to
install a bearing either over or hanging off of a new geometry sway bar.
The tire would then hit this bearing instead of rub the sway bar.  The
bearing would give a surface that would roll with the wheel instead of being
rubbed by it.

Again, if anyone has any knowledge of this situation, let me know.

The second handling problem with the new wheels is a shaking vibration in
the steering wheel at about 60MPH.  I think this is just a tire out of
balance.  They balanced the wheels before they put them on, but perhaps they
could have done a better job.  With this style of rim, there isn't much room
to attach wheel weights without them being seen.  Some people prefer to live
with out-of-balance wheels rather than look at ugly wheel weights.  I think
I would rather look at the weights.

The new wheels run much smoother.  The OEM wheels gave a 'galloping' feel
since they had flat spots on them from being stored in one position for too
many years.

Do any of y'all get a kick out of reading this stuff?  I feel like I
sometimes post more text to the DML than everyone else combined.  E-mail me
privately and tell me to either keep it up or knock it off.  I don't want to
be annoying. :)

Walt    Tampa, FL





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 14:15:12 +0300
From: Hisham Khalifa <hishamak_at_dml_batelco.com.bh>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Design

Hello all...

On 01-Oct-00, Ryan McCaffrey wrote:

<>< SNIP
> Headline:  Back to the future
> Story:  The memorable John Z. DeLorean, who built and marketed his own
> stainless-steel, gull-wing sports car in the 1970s, is back<>< SNIP

What do design professionals say about the DeLorean... what era does it
represent? The 70's or 80's? Any consensus on this?

Some say although it was made in the 80's, Design Ital's work was done at the
end of the 70's, so it reflects a different, bellbottom-laden attitude than
otherwise? :)

Regards
-- 
-------------------------------------
Hisham Khalifa
hishamak_at_dml_batelco.com.bh
-------------------------------------




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 09:52:57 EDT
From: sharkywtrs_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Lee's Model Kit

John, I'm also awaiting mine.  Last I heard, we're just waiting on the boxes 
to be finished.


Scott



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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 16:01:09 +0200 (DST)
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins_at_dml_businessnet.net>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Design

On Sun, 01 Oct 2000 14:15:12 +0300, Hisham Khalifa wrote:

> Hello all...

Hi,
 
> What do design professionals say about the DeLorean... what era does it
> represent? The 70's or 80's? Any consensus on this?

Definitely 80's. The design may have been done in the 70's, but (good)
designers are always ahead of the trends. Especially for cars, since
they have a longer design time than an ash tray for example.

Anyways, for me the DeLorean has 80's written al over it.

Anyone noticed the 70's revival (in furniture and such) we have now?
I'm guessing the 80's revival will start in around 5 to 10 years. Then
we'll be completely hip again with our cars (if they still run :).

Sacha






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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 10:55:28 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Lee's Model Kit

John,

Yes, I am waiting for my model kit too.  
It has been over two years.
I also wrote to him several times and I did not get ANY reply at all.

I have given up on this man, his model and my money he now has.
If he sends it the model?  Fine.  If not, too bad.
I will considered this as a lost investment.

A waste of my time, energy and money.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic  9D NY



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 09:56:32 -0500
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc_at_dml_i-55.com>
Subject: Re: Lee's Model Kit

I've been having the same problem.  I've been getting a little worried
because in January he said the kits were complete.

It is almost January 2001 and I still haven't heard anything new reguarding
the status of my kit.

The message board he created was a nice way to get updates but it seems that
it isnt working anymore.

If anyone finds out some new information please let me know something.


SteveDMC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John G Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_toast.net>
To: "DMC NEWS LIST" <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 12:24 AM
Subject: [DML] Lee's Model Kit


> Is anybody else still waiting on their Delorean Model Kit from Lee Seiler?
It's been almost 2 years since I paid for mine.  I tried to email Lee a
month ago but didn't get a reply.  Just curious.
>
> JOHN in Toledo
> VIN# 4945
>



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 10:50:00 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: WARNING!

David,

Concerning the following statement on your "stall speed test":

"release accelerator pedal smoothly ( don't hold to floor for more
than 20 seconds)"

I did some research on this test and wanted to let you and any other
Delorean owners who consider conducting this test that according to the
"Auto Service and Repair Manual" published by Goodheart-Willcox Co.
indicates the following:

"When stall testing, never keep the  accelerator pedal in the full throttle
position for longer than five seconds. To do so will seriously overheat the
transmission."

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 10:23 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Automatic transmissions


> To DMC joe and the list
> I have done this test to my own car. I would not ask for someone to do
> anything with their car that couldn't be done safely by competant
> individuals. BE WARNED - IF CONDUCTED IMPROPERLY IT IS POSSIBLE TO
> DAMAGE THE CAR AND THE NEIGHBERHOOD. I need a couple of other owners
> to test their torque converters so I can come up with a stall speed
> not just of my own car. I cannot find any reference to a stall speed
> in the service literiture. It is an important specifacation. The last
> thing I would want to hear is that someone tried this test and damaged
> their car or worse hurt someone.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> [VERY LONG QUOTATION SNIPPED BY MODERATOR]





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 15:30:40 -0000
From: "Robert S. Rodgers" <rsrodgers_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Time LLC in Newspaper

Today's New York TImes also had a short blurb, with a small pic of 
JZD under the headline "A DeLorean Second Hand (Hour Too)"

"... Now that he is finally close to settling creditors for the 
DeLorean Motor Company, Mr. DeLorean, 75, is starting a new online 
retail company, DeLorean Time."
Kathleen O'Brien got the by-line.

Bob
#17015
http://drive.to/delorean-motorcar

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> It looks like JZD's new project has caught some reporter's 
attention.  In
> today (Saturday's) edition of The Arizona Republic in the
Wheels 
section,





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 11:04:34 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Speedometer Readings

Bill,

The rear tire does not affect the speedo. Since the speedo is controlled by
the angle drive on the front wheel, it's diameter is the only one that
matters.

I've got the Yokos also, and we did some testing with my Dad's truck and my
wife's car using two-way radios, and the speedo in our D with the Yokos was
quite accurate. You may want to try this before you embark on any speedo
recalibrations.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 09:51 PM 9/30/00 EDT, billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
>
>   After putting on my new Yoko AVS tires I noticed that it seemed my 
>speedomter was registering faster speeds than my previous tires. I know the 
>tires on the rear (235/60VR-15) were quite a bit larger in tire height than 
>my old ones. The 195/60R-14 front tires are close to what I had on before.
My 
>question is would the larger rear tires cause my speedometer reading to be 
>off? Do I need to calibrate the speedometer? Thanks
>
>Bill (11096)



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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 11:11:24 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: AUTOFEST

We're hoping for well over a dozen this year. Last year we had a total of
9. We've got a few pictures of last year's event at our club web site:
http://www.midstatedmc.com/eville.html

The Mid-State DeLorean Club has been attending this event since it's
inception. This year a lot of out-of-state members and non-members will be
attending with us. We would love to have anyone who can make it come out
and join us. Details are at the club web site under Events:
http://www.midstatedmc.com/     If you plan to attend, please check out our
web page as it has details on getting a good hotel room rate.

Mark Noeltner
VIN 6820
Mid-State DeLorean Club Webmaster

At 12:32 AM 10/1/00 EDT, spooky312_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
>I am sorry if this was already brought up but I was wondering if anyone
knows 
>how many DMC's are supposed to be at autofest in Evansville, IN. I would 
>really love to see one in the "metal" before I die. I have idolized the car 
>forever and I haven't been able to see one because I have been stuck in this 
>endless abyss for all my life. Thank you for your time and information.
>
>Rachel



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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 12:03:49 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan Problem

Robert,

Unfortunately the cooling fans are sealed and non-repairable. As the weather
turns cooler one fan should easily handle your AC and engine cooling
demands, this will allow you to use your DeLorean and give you plenty of
time to arrange for a replacement.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Rooney <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 4:22 PM
Subject: [DML] Cooling Fan Problem


> The cooling fan on the drivers side of my car is now refusing to turn
> on. Passenger side works fine, and power is going to the drivers side
> plug, but the fan still will not turn on. After driving the motor on
> the fan that is working is warm, but the one that doesn't is cool. In
> this situation is it possible to repair the fan, maybe even take it
> to an electric motor shop or what not to get fixed?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 (fighting to keep my car on the road)





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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 12:19:58 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Speedometer Readings

Bill,

Apparently the tires you had on the car previously were incorrect, the
correct size is 195/14 front and 235/15 rear. Being that the speedometer
pickup is at the left front wheel a change in the rear size would not effect
the speedometer calibration.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 9:51 PM
Subject: [DML] Speedometer Readings


>
>    After putting on my new Yoko AVS tires I noticed that it seemed my
> speedomter was registering faster speeds than my previous tires. I know
the
> tires on the rear (235/60VR-15) were quite a bit larger in tire height
than
> my old ones. The 195/60R-14 front tires are close to what I had on before.
My
> question is would the larger rear tires cause my speedometer reading to be
> off? Do I need to calibrate the speedometer? Thanks
>
> Bill (11096)





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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 12:59:28 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Headlight high/low beams

Walter,

The headlight switching design in the DeLorean was dictated by the Federal
Motor Vehicle Safety Standard. This is the government agency that sets the
lighting standards for all motor vehicles sold in the US.

There is a rather complex explanation in the FMVSS spec book as to why this
lowbeam off switching is done, so I'll attempt to give you a simple
explanation.

If both the low beam and high beam lights are illuminated simultaneously the
low beams cause additional light to be reflected off the pavement and back
to the drivers eyes
causing the eye iris to reduce in size. When this happens long distance
visibility is reduced. Simply put "the narrower the beam of light, the
greater the long distance visibility."

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Walter <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 5:34 AM
Subject: [DML] Headlight high/low beams


> I have a safety question:
> Why do the low beams shut off when the high beams are turned on?  Isn't it
> kind of stupid to run with half the lights off?  The two inner bulbs are
> meant to be high beams only.  The two outer bulbs have two filaments each:
> one for high beam, one for low beam.  The Delorean wiring is configured to
> only run one or the other set of filaments, but not both at the same time.
> Why?  Does this produce too much heat in the bulb to have it put out twice
> as much wattage?
>
> Walt    Tampa, FL
_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>





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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 15:10:46 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Lee's Model Kit

I too ordered a kit from Lee,  and I also e-mailed him.  I did, however get a 
reply from him about the kits.  I'm not sure how long ago this was, but it 
couldn't have been more than a few months ago.  Do any of you know much work 
it is to create a De Lorean model as painstakingly as Lee has done?  I know 
its been a long time, but I really think we should give Lee a little slack on 
the model kits.  Kayo Ong, why do you consider this a lost investment?  You 
will get your model kit.  If you went to Cleveland this past June, you would 
have seen the special edition model kit Lee created for the Cleveland event, 
so the kits do actually exist.  It just takes time.  Just my 2 cents.

Later,
Nick
1852
web page   http://members.aol.com/njp548  (Added scrolling DMC emblem to web 
page border, worth the time to check it out :)   and as always feedback is 
always welcome)



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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 13:04:06 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Lee's Model Kit


JOHN in Toledo Wrote:
<SNIP> Is anybody else still waiting on their Delorean Model Kit from Lee
Seiler? </SNIP>

I'm also waiting for a model, and haven't heard from Lee.

I even tried to contact him by email and phone to see if a friend of mine
could buy one of the unsold models that Lee has mentioned.

Gary Hull
The DeLorean Tow Truck
http://IN2TIME.com
http://PNDC.org




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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 20:59:50 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Cooling Fan Update

The Problem:
   As it turns out, the "e" clip on the spindle had bent out of 
place, and was not pushing the blade assembly down onto the motor far 
enough. Looking at the clip, it itself was bent to push down on the 
blades. The problem appears to have been that just like a spring over 
the years, it lost it's resistance and was no longer pushing down.

The Solution:
   Using a 2-pound sledge hammer and the blacktop in the street I was 
able to flatten the e-clip. Then using a washer as a shim I placed it 
between the fan blade and the clip to tension. Viola! The fan is once 
again running!

Observations:
   Viewing the motor from the back, there are 2 bolts that go thru 
and hold the entire assembly together, w/a seam twards the back of 
the motor where the front and back casing meet. More then likely 
though, DMCJoe is correct in stating that the unit is sealed. 2 
people pulling in oposite directions were unable to seperate the 
motor halves. Or even remove the fan blades for that matter! Epoxy 
may have been used to seal the unit, but I have no idea.
   Next is the how the blades are connected. As I described above an 
e-clip is whats used to secure the blades to the motor, but what is 
odd is that the spindle that goes thru the blade assembly, and that 
the e-clip attaches to does NOT spin independantly of the blades. It 
appears that the blade makes contact with the motor underneath. Which 
would explain why the blades have to be pushed down to work. 
(Naturally you could understand my 'surprise' when i I pushed against 
the fan blades and the motor suddenly started with my fingers in the 
way!)

Conculsion:
   Replacing the e-clip and adding the shim into place can be 
accomplished without having to remove the fan motor. Granted though 
it is a tight working space for your hands, and the radiator can be 
like a cheese grator against your knuckles if you are not careful.
   If you do need to remove a fan motor for whatever reason, this is 
no easy task. It will require removal of the lower radiator brackets, 
AND the front anti-sway bar to drop the fan cowl. Of course there is 
the alternative of hacksawing the motor out, and then replacing it 
using Bondo marine putty epoxy.
   All in all, while it was a simple problem that was easily curable. 
Getting to it was not. IMHO, changing my rotor and distributor cap 
was a much easier task to be sure!

-Robert
vin 6585

p.s. The weather in my area is still in the high 90's. Friday I blew 
the radiator cap twice in traffic! No signs of damage to the engine, 
but once more I'll run thru the usual tests to determine...




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