From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 2:43 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 276

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There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Non- starter.
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Another no-start
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Another no-start
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Coolant Leak?
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. water pump dead?
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

6. DMC retrieval
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

7. Leaf stains!
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag_at_dml_mindspring.com>

8. Running rich
From: Chris Spratt <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

9. Re: Running rich
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: Leaf stains!
From: "Robert Bell" <elduke_at_dml_att.net>

11. DMC Chat Room on AOL...
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

12. Re: Leaf stains!
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

13. RPM Relay Difference
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

14. First driven
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Leaf stains!
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

16. ADMIN: Chat room
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

17. Re: new geometry heavy duty sway bar
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

18. Auto. Trans Question
From: dmcdelorean2_at_dml_aol.com

19. Chassis
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

20. Re: Non- starter.
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: Auto. Trans Question
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 00:33:15 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Non- starter.

Chris, The only reason I said if it has one in case someone has taken it out. 
Under the dash on the drivers side. Find the plunger and move it up and down 
a few times in case it got crusty over the years. If it looks alright then 
the next place i would go is the RPM relay. I assume you have checked the 
wiring on the fuel pump and the grounds.
John



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 00:44:16 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Another no-start

Dave, Even thought a circut modification was done on cars with vin 2547 and 
up to correct the low voltage starter problem. Maby yours got overlooked. See 
if you can find service bulletin # ST-05-2/82. It explains the modification. 
If you don't have it you may email me direct for mod.
dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
John Hervey



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 01:03:00 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Another no-start

Dave , The other thing you can do is replace or clean the contacts on the 
start inhibit relay. Second from the left on the second row. 
John



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 05:33:16 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant Leak?

You can lose a large amount of coolant and not see any leaking onto 
the floor. There are several large web areas on top of the block that 
can hold coolant and then boil it. Most likely not only are the hoses 
behind the water pump leaking but also the "o" rings on the 
distribution pipe.You must replace all of the hoses on the engine, the 
gaskets, and "o" rings and should also replace the water pump.Be 
prepared to drill out bolts that you will break as you disassemble the 
 top of the engine and distribution pipe. You cannot settle for 
anything less than a system that can hold #15 psi hot for over 15 
min. Anything less means you still have a leak somewhere.You probably 
didn't blow a head gasket but the things to look for include, a white 
frothy oily film on the dipstick, two adjacent cylinders with a higher 
than normal compression pressure, a pressure cap that always seems to 
be letting out coolant with a need to constantly bleed the coolant 
system, excessive blowby in the crankcase, higher than normal 
operating temperature. Any or all of these symptoms would indicate a 
blown head gasket.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 Yes I had to replace my water pump and it was a real pain!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> A couple of weeks ago in traffic my car overheated because of a 
> faulty cooling fan. While the temp didn't go over 240, this isn't 
> the first time my car has been this hot. Although I did blow my 
> radiator cap (since replaced). Ever since my car has be "drinking" 
> coolant. At least once a week I have to fill the overflow bottle. 



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 08:24:16 EST
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: water pump dead?

Hello,
    My car gets hot really fast now.  If I start it up for a minute or two, 
the gage is near 225 so I have to turn it off.  I have the cooling fans set 
to run at all times and I also have an overheat protector from DMC Joe on it.
    I used to get a ssssss noise when I removed the overflow cap but I no 
longer do.(when it stayed cool)  someone mentioned the water pump.  how can I 
test it to see if it is working correctly?  the system is full of coolant and 
I have about an 1-1/2 inches in the overflow bottle.  I checked everything 
out and I dont see any leaks.  any ideas on what this could be would be 
greatly appreciated.

Thanks

David
    



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 01:32:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: DMC retrieval

Well, #2867 and I are well under way here. I picked her up from DMC
Houston yesterday morning, and am now in nashville, heading for home
(DC). I haven't driven a manual tranny car in a couple of years (I haven't
owned a car at /all/ in a couple of years. My GF has a automatic which I
drive occassionally, but I'm a motorcycle guy.) so I've been re-learning a
little. Also learning that a lack of power steering means (among other
things) that long haul driving tires me out a tad faster. I've done 12+
hours days on a bike, but 10 hours and I was kinda hurting on this run. No
worries. I'm having fun. :)

The current plan calls for me to head down I-40, grab I-81, and shoot
north. Unless I get bored, and opt to take skyline, which should be
absolutely gorgeous. I've noticed that I'm not as relaxed driving this car
as I am when I bike, or even when I drive my GF's
(girlfriend's... sorry. Geek shorthand.) car; I'm gripping the steering
wheel too tightly. I keep forgetting how crappy the roads are when they're
 more than an hour or so from a Major Metropolitan Area(tm).

Oh, and as an aside (as if I haven't rambled on enough), i thought DC area
driversw were crazy. I mean, we've got 8 lanes of asphalt wrapped around
the city, and everyone (I thought) drover like maniacs. Myself included,
I'm afraid. Ok, look. I've own a vehicle with a 5.5-1 weight-HP ratio. I
don't ride like a /complete/ maniac, but I've been known to get a little
impatient. Anyway, DC drivers are absolute little-old-ladies compared to
the freaks you Texans bred in Houston. My ghod. 

noah
#2867, on maiden voyage


"Where's my fruit cup?" "Behind the bison."
                        -- Kevin & Kell (Sept 22, 1995)




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 08:39:49 -0600
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Leaf stains!

I recentely left my DeLorean outside while the leaves were falling.  Ok, bad
mistake to begine with since it took me a half hour to clean them out from
under the louver, bonnet, door channels, etc.

But the big problem is, the stains they left on the SS.  It rained quite a
bit and these leaves were "glued" to the car for a while.  I've tried hot
soapy water, pressure wash, Windex, PrepSol, and 3M General Purpose
Adheasive Cleaner.  None can get these brown leaf outlines off my car!

Any ideas????  Stainless steel cleaners?  Acetone?

Thanks, --Jonathan  #000697

gatewayaag AT mindspring.com





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 14:17:51 +0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: Chris Spratt <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Running rich

Hi list



I am in need of your expert advice. My car is running way to rich. I have had problems starting it too, but have replaced the all the HT stuff as i have lots of corrosion on my car. The other day my cat was glowing red as too much unburnt fuel was getting into it. But the car now runs but if i rev it or try to move the car it just pops and spluters. Also when the car has been running for a while the air flap starts juddering and there appears to be more exaust fumes.

I am about to replace the Oxygen sensor too



Any other ideas? DMC Joe? Help



thanks



Chris Vin 16327



_______________________________________________________________________
FSmail - Get your free web-based email from Freeserve: www.fsmail.net







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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 17:53:57 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Running rich

Chris, The oxygen sensor is a good part to replace for fuel economy 
if you think it's running a to rich. But with some of the other 
problems your having with starting and running I would hold off on 
the o2 till those problems are worked out. The problems your having 
now could contaminate the new sensor so it won't work properly after 
you get the starting and running problems worked out. Sound like your 
car has a fireing problem. Have you checked for water in the plug 
holes or bad wires. I had the same problems with spluttering and 
small back fires with spark problems on cars that I leave parked 
outside. I have to blow the water out of the spark plug holes every 
now and then.
John Hervey

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Chris Spratt <chris_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> Hi list
> 
> I am in need of your expert advice. My car is running way to rich. 
I have had problems starting it too, but have replaced the all the HT 
stuff as i have lots of corrosion on my car. The other day my cat was 
glowing red as too much unburnt fuel was getting into it. But the car 
now runs but if i rev it or try to move the car it just pops and 
spluters. Also when the car has been running for a while the air flap 
starts juddering and there appears to be more exaust fumes.
> I am about to replace the Oxygen sensor too
> 
> Any other ideas? DMC Joe? Help
> 
> thanks
> 
> Chris Vin 16327
> 
> 
> 
> 
______________________________________________________________________
_
> FSmail - Get your free web-based email from Freeserve: 
www.fsmail.net




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 13:04:18 -0600
From: "Robert Bell" <elduke_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Leaf stains!

Kinda makes you wonder why they call it STAINLESS     don't it...
A good stainless cleaner should take the stains out.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag_at_dml_mindspring.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2000 8:39 AM
Subject: [DML] Leaf stains!


> I recentely left my DeLorean outside while the leaves were falling.  Ok,
bad
> mistake to begine with since it took me a half hour to clean them out from
> under the louver, bonnet, door channels, etc.
>
> But the big problem is, the stains they left on the SS.  It rained quite a
> bit and these leaves were "glued" to the car for a while.  I've tried hot
> soapy water, pressure wash, Windex, PrepSol, and 3M General Purpose
> Adheasive Cleaner.  None can get these brown leaf outlines off my car!
>
> Any ideas????  Stainless steel cleaners?  Acetone?
>
> Thanks, --Jonathan  #000697
>



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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 14:51:40 EST
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: DMC Chat Room on AOL...

Would any DeLorean owners (or enthusiasts) on AOL like to start up
an AOL chat room dedicated to DeLorean talk?  OR are there
any out there already in existence?

Let me know if you like the idea,

Richard



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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 17:10:28 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Leaf stains!

Hey Jonathan,

      We had a person that had the same exact complaint you did on the De 
Lorean Fall Foliage tour this past weekend.  There is a product called Gel 
Gloss that was used to get rid of the leaf stains, I believe its found in 
Home-Depot.  Hope that helps.

Later,
Nick
1852
Http://members.aol.com/njp548



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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 23:46:21 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: RPM Relay Difference

Group: For the ones that are intrested technically. I was working on 
6935 and took the RPM relay out to clean the (contacts.) Much to my 
surprise the PC board had a factory modification and it uses a single 
(contact) for all the load: This may be why some of the earlier 
versions failed to soon due to the overload. My 11004 has a double 
contact relay inside to better distribute the load.All the ones I've 
been sent to clean and repair have had two contacts. Strange%$#&^.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com  




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 18:51:37 EST
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: First driven

Oh, finally..................
I just, like an hour ago, had the chance to drive our DeLorean. To let you 
know, I'm 15 and I have my permit, and we had a clutch problem. We finally 
had time to do some work on it, so we fixed that right after the headliners 
were put in, because the headliners had work done to them. So after we bled 
the clutch, we took it out because it was clear and nice outside, and we had 
to check the clutch. I drove it a bit, and I loved it. I could definately 
tell it didn't have power steering, but I really liked it. 

Just to let you know,
John Feldman
VIN 4275



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 23:58:34 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Leaf stains!

Jonathan, 
Fight biological with biological and petroleum with petroleum. Look 
in the wash room for Tilex or amonia or something with a spot remover 
substance. Try it on a small spot and see what happens. Petroleum 
based chemicals in most cases won't clean biological and vise versa. 
Mom's best pre cleaners as they know is Automotive Goop.
John Hervey

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I recentely left my DeLorean outside while the leaves were 
falling.  Ok, bad
> mistake to begine with since it took me a half hour to clean them 
out from
> under the louver, bonnet, door channels, etc.
> 
> But the big problem is, the stains they left on the SS.  It rained 
quite a
> bit and these leaves were "glued" to the car for a while.  I've 
tried hot
> soapy water, pressure wash, Windex, PrepSol, and 3M General Purpose
> Adheasive Cleaner.  None can get these brown leaf outlines off my 
car!
> 
> Any ideas????  Stainless steel cleaners?  Acetone?
> 
> Thanks, --Jonathan  #000697
> 
> gatewayaag AT mindspring.com




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 18:36:29 -0600
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Chat room

Rather than reply to Robert's inquiry on the list, please respond to him
privately at
RJRavalli [at] AOL.com

RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

When he coordinates enough people and specifies a time he will announce it
on the list.

BTW - I would suggest that you use something besides AOL. I just did a quick
check, out of 1100 DML ist members only 230 are on AOL.

Moderator (Dave)






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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 18:56:15 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: new geometry heavy duty sway bar


> I'm in the process of designing a new geometry heavy duty sway bar.  For
> those of you who help me, I'll make sure you get one as inexpensively as I
> can do it.  If I can make them economically then I will probably only sell
> to a major Delorean supplier.  I'm not into retail.


I'm wondering if this is an improvment or a formula for trouble. The factory
had a recall to upgrade the area of the frame where the sway bar mounts
because the original design was too weak. The metal would 'oilcan' when
strained by the forces applied by the sway bar. The lower control arms have
the bars attached and use the bar to hold the camber adjustment for the
front end. The lower control arms are marginal in constuction and the
additional strain from a bigger sway bar may not be in their best intrest.
The rubber mounting bushings for the bar have the hole off center with the
bar mounted forward in the brackets. I tried poly bushings from a Corvette
which had the holes centered. This changed the camber a bit and it was
somewhat noticable when driving aggresivly. Bigger bars will require
different brackets and bushings which will need to take this into
consideration. I don't see any gain here. The stock sway bar does a more than
adequate job.

Bruce Benson




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 20:50:58 EST
From: dmcdelorean2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Auto. Trans Question

Hello,

       Does anyone know if the automatic transmission torque converter has a 
one way clutch? If it does I have to replace it, an answer ASAP would be 
appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
Rahway, NJ
11388



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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 03:33:24 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Chassis

Hey guys, I just wanted to put a post here telling everyone that I 
updated my chassis page on my website. I have pictures on it from 
before to after painting the entire chassis with POR-15 along with 
descriptions. If anyone's intrested go there now and check it out. 
www.dmcman.homestead.com

Thanks,
Steve




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 04:18:45 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Non- starter.

Chris, Did you get the car started. The inertia supplies ground for 
the fuel pump. If you can't here it run when you turn on the key then 
you go back to the RPM relay power comes from RPM relay. If you want 
to forget all that then run a wire from the battery direct to the 
fuel pump. If it runs see if the car will start if not then you got a 
ground prob. If it runs but the car doesn't start. The filters, lines 
accum needs to be checked out one by one. 
John 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I have a car in my care that has just been purchased from an 
auction, vin
> 20049, very low miles (111) very well kept in heated and de-
humidified
> garage, looks immaculate,and I mean "like new",  only trouble is 
its not run
> since 1995. I started at the fuel pump, it wasn't running, I 
changed all the



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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 04:21:45 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Auto. Trans Question

If the car has no foward or reverse make sure it has fluid then check 
the line pressure by installing a pressure gauge in the tap at the 
front of the trans next to the fluid pump. If you have pressure you 
probably burnt out c-1 clutch pack.Without c-1 you will get no 
gears.You could also check the fuse for the trans but even without the 
fuse you would still get something.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, dmcdelorean2_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello,
> 
>        Does anyone know if the automatic transmission torque 
converter has a 
> one way clutch? If it does I have to replace it, an answer ASAP 
would be 
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris
> Rahway, NJ
> 11388




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