From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2000 4:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 290

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Mystery Noise...
From: "scottmueller.al" <scottmueller.al_at_dml_netzero.net>

2. Re: Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

3. Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: DeLorean Election Results
From: "JDL" <jdl_at_dml_interax.com>

5. Re: Tires
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

6. Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

7. throttle/frequency valve sticking
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

8. Idle speed regulator question.
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

9. Re: Tires
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

10. Prospective buyer questions
From: bluroom_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Tires
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

12. A Few Questions
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_copper.net>

13. Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

14. No-start problem solved!
From: azelin242_at_dml_hotmail.com

15. Re: [Looking For a D]
From: james sawyer <mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net>

16. Bits for sale
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

17. Fuel Pump Banjo Screw
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

18. Lee's Model Kits- Questions about the Answers
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc_at_dml_charter.net>

19. Re: Tires
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

20. High RPM at start
From: jdsjlv_at_dml_aol.com

21. Parts for sale - anyone?
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: throttle/frequency valve sticking
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. RE: Tires
From: jschwab <jschwab_at_dml_utkux.utcc.utk.edu>

24. Re: Tires
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

25. Re: Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 09:50:07 -0600
From: "scottmueller.al" <scottmueller.al_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Mystery Noise...

Check your shocks, I had one loosen because the large bell washer had broke
and fell out.
Scott Mueller
scottmueller.al_at_dml_netzero.net
1981/002981  DOA5031/DMCNEWS


----- Original Message -----
From: Nathan E. Green <gzen21_at_dml_excite.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Cc: <WINGD2_at_dml_aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 10:25 AM
Subject: [DML] Mystery Noise...


>
>  . . . I heard a noise last night I had never heard. I sounded like a thud
> from the left front. I was turning into a parking lot at about 10mph, with
> the wheels about 3/4 of the way. I did some experiments: only happen when
> I turn left, faster or slower--no noise, steering seems to behave normally.

[Very long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 11:20:23 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Hot Start Problem

This may be the source of the hot start problem. The fitting you are
describing sounds like the fuel pump check valve. If this valve is not
installed the engine will not start when hot.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 9:02 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Hot Start Problem


> Perhaps you need the fitting on that screws into the top of the pump
> to attach the main fuel line to.  You old fuel pump you sold me still
> had this on it and I did not know what to do with it as it looked
> different from the fitting I have.  Perhaps you need this part back.
> If nobody else has any suggestions, let me know and I'll mail it back
> to you. (ultra'at'isd.net)
>
> Jim Reeve
> #6960





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 17:32:10 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Problem

You need to determine if in fact it is a fuel problem or an ignition 
(electrical) problem. When it won't start hot put a LITTLE ether into 
the intake. If it tries to start the problem is fuel. Or you could 
hook up a pressure gauge and check directly. Your problem could be an 
intermittant conection or a bad coil in the distributer. The new 
acumulater won't help if the check valve won't hold at the fuel pump.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


> Stian Birkeland wrote:
> 
> When I turn the key, EVERYTHING ENGAGES, the engine cranks but just 
> wont start. When the engine is cold it fires right up.
> 
> So...since a new fuel accumulator didnt solve the hot start problem, 
> what will? Please help.
> 
> Mr. Stian Birkeland
> Norway

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 12:34:25 -0500
From: "JDL" <jdl_at_dml_interax.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Election Results

Forgetaboutit.  Mark is not interested in running for anything else,
probably ever.  That's my impression having talked to Mark myself about the
matter.  Sorry to put the kibosh on that, but we will have to wait for
Kathryn to run for something...

David Levey

> Mike Substelny wrote:

> A member of the DeLorean family in politics might help raise interest in
> our cars, especially if that person ever sought national office.
> If Mr. DeLorean is not too discouraged by this election, perhaps he will
> try again someday.  After all, he did get the support of 123,703 people.
>
> - Mike Substelny

[quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 15:44:53 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Tires

On Wed, 8 Nov 2000, Mike Substelny wrote:

> Understeer in a rear-engine car?  Under what circumstances did you
> experience this?

One person's understeer is another person's uncontrollable spin.  It
depends on driving style and experience.  If you even look at the initial
DeLorean car magazine reviews, some reviewers said the DeLorean was stable
with just a touch of understeer at the limit; others said they were afraid
to push it for fear of losing control.

> >  Has anyone considered/tried putting softer tires
> > in the front than in the back - ie
> > Yoko A520 in front/Yoko AVS intermediate in the rear?
> 
> As we have heard frequently in the news lately, if you run your tires
> at any pressure other than that specified by the automobile's
> manufacturer you might create a safety hazard.  Perhaps it is possible

I don't think he was referring to changing tire pressure, but tire
compound.  "Softer" tires have more grip, with the expense of shorter
treadlife and (usually) worse bad-weather performance.

Although running different compound front/rear might allow you to change
the oversteer/understeer balance, I've never heard of anyone doing
that.  The best way of changing this balance is with sway bar adjustments
- IMO the DeLorean needs a weak rear bar (vs. no rear bar) and a much
stiffer front bar.

Usually, running different tire compound front/rear causes unpleasant
vibrations and potential loss of control.  If the tires "break away" -
lose grip at the limit - at different rates, you will not be able to
predict what the car is going to do.  This is probably why it isn't
commonly done.




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 21:50:15 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Problem

It sounds like you may have a bad thermo-time switch. A easy test for 
this is to remove the plug that goes into the switch and ground the 
wire with a jumper to fire the cold start valve (unfortunatly there 
are 2 wires, and I can't remember off hand which one to ground). If 
it is a bad switch, the engine should fire right up. On a side note: 
If the thermo time switch is found to be the culprit, then your best 
bet is to buy it thru DMC Houston. They list the switch _at_dml_ $24.65 US. 
I've been to Volvo parts suppliers, and they usually demand around 
$50-60. I even called up my local Volvo dealership and they wanted 
$150!!! (I hope the dealership offers health care for it's employees. 
Because for that high a price, someone must have fallen and hit their 
head REALLY hard!)

-Robert
vin 6585

[Repeat quote removed by moderator]



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 17:03:04 EST
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: throttle/frequency valve sticking

Hello,
    I have a little problem here.  When I drive my car and shift the RPMs go 
way up like I still have my foot on the gas but I don't.  I have to put it in 
2nd and brake until it gets back down to lower RPMS, and then release the 
clutch to get the RPMS back down somewhat.  Messing with the gas pedal doesnt 
help.  The linkage is not the problem.  I can remove the linkage to the 
butterfly so it is closed but it still idles very high.  Once I shut the car 
off and start it back up without touching the gas it will idle low like it 
should again.
    I am curious as what this could be.  I just had all of the vacuum lines 
replaced last week.  also, my 02 sensor is very bad I was told, the wire is 
almost completely bare.  I have a new sensor but I cant get the old one out; 
what is the trick?  could this cause my car to rev up so high while changing 
gears?,  I didnt think the frequency valve could make the engine rev up to 
near 3500RPMS.  Also, the dealer said he adjusted the idle on my car, I know 
its electronically controlled so I turned the screw back in all the way, is 
there anything else he could have adjusted that would cause the problem I 
described?  any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
    
    Car hasnt been driven since 1993 and just getting it ready for the road 
again.
Thanks
David



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 22:23:42 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Idle speed regulator question.

I have a question about the idle speed regulator. On all the 
DeLorean's that I've looked at, I've noticed that there are 2 
versions of the idle speed regulator: A black one, and a gold/brass 
colored one. On every DeLorean I've seen that has the black on 
installed (including mine), the engine comes down quickly from a rev, 
then dips below 700 rpm's. When the happens the engine always 
shutters and almost dies. Most time it is so bad that the alternator 
warning light will sometimes illuminate. On the car's w/the gold 
colored units, the engine always comes down gently to it's idle and 
never goes below 750 rpm's. My question is this: 1. Does anyone know 
the BOSCH # for this 2nd version? 2. Which version do the parts 
suppliers ship?

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 17:05:16 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

With a rear engine car there is a pretty fine line between understeer and
over steer. There isn't a whole lot of middle ground and some understeer was
purposely designed into the DeLorean. Perhaps experimenting with tire
pressures would be the place to start.

Bruce Benson


> I was out the other day pushing my the D a bit, and I found what I'd call
a
> considerable understeer.  Has anyone considered/tried putting softer tires
> in the front than in the back - ie
> Yoko A520 in front/Yoko AVS intermediate in the rear?





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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 18:11:20 EST
From: bluroom_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Prospective buyer questions

Hello all,
I hope this isn't an annoying post, but I'm seriously looking into purchasing 
a Delorean in the near future and wanted to get actual owner input. Reading 
specs is one thing, the intangibles are another.
I'm not a stick fan, so any input from automatic owners would be greatly 
appreciated. Is there any major difference in performance between the two? 
One thing I would probably want to do is upgrade if possible. If anyone out 
there can tell me about what upgrades you can do the engine - ie, are the 
twin turbos still available, etc. - that'd be awesome.
Finally if anyone out there lives in the Chicago area and is selling, please 
get in touch with me. I'd love a chance to drive/get a good luck at a 
Delorean.
Thanks for reading and for your time! If you would be willing to reply to me 
directly rather than to the list, that works. 
Dan
BluRoom_at_dml_aol.com

[Moderator Note: Dan, the DML covered these very subjects within the last few weeks, so you might not get any responses.  Do not be discouraged if this happens.  You can still read those discussions at the eGroups website]



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 17:38:02 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Tires

At 10:07 AM 11/8/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Understeer in a rear-engine car?  Under what circumstances did you experience
>this?

I've experienced understeer in this car also. That's the whole reason Lotus
and DMC specified the much larger tires on the rear. To get rid of the
oversteer inherent in a rear-engine car and instead have a slight
understeer condition like most other cars on the road. Much safer for the
average driver. You're only going to notice it if you push the car out to
it's limits. I doubt that many DeLorean drivers do this. I autocross ours
about twice a year just so I know how it will react when driving at the limit.

>>  Has anyone considered/tried putting softer tires
>> in the front than in the back - ie
>> Yoko A520 in front/Yoko AVS intermediate in the rear?
>
>As we have heard frequently in the news lately, if you run your tires at any
>pressure other than that specified by the automobile's manufacturer you might
>create a safety hazard.  Perhaps it is possible to run a "softer" tire at a
>pressure that will give adequate safety, but I have no idea how to determine
>this, and I do not even know who to ask.  I would be afraid to trust the
advice
>of an anonymous person on the internet.

Mike, Jim didn't mention anything about tire pressures in his post. I think
you're reading something that isn't there. He's just asking about running a
softer rubber compound which doesn't imply anything about tire pressures.
You CAN adjust handling with tire pressures, but he didn't ask or mention
that.

Jim, the only way to determine if this will work is to test it. Personally,
I would recommend taking it to an autocross, or to a track if they have any
open track days. This way you could test the tire combination in a
relatively safe environment rather than out on the road. With the stickier
tire on the front (the A520) it should theoretically even it out a bit. But
without testing, who knows?? Be sure to test it in the rain so you know how
it feels. In bad weather I'd much rather have understeer than oversteer.

You can also get rid of some of the understeer by raising the rear tire
pressures slightly. It isn't helping your ultimate grip any, but it will
let you adjust the feel. The DeLorean has fairly wide tolerances on tire
pressures. For road driving, as long as you keep the front and rear within
the limits in the owner's manual you'll be pretty safe, even in bad
weather. For performance driving on dry pavement you want to stay near the
upper numbers they have in the book. That way tire rollover in cornering
will be minimized. The Yokos probably need a slight adjustment to the
pressures to get the handling closer to neutral anyway, compared with the
original NCTs. Different rubber compounds will react differently.

>
>Who should answer Jim's question?  If a person claimed to me that they could
>improve handling by changing my tire parameters, what sort of credentials
>should he/she present before I listen to him/her?

You have to make that judgement.
>
>- Mike Substelny
>VIN 01280, 7 years

Mark Noeltner
VIN 6820 - only 2 years
SCCA member and autocrosser - many more years



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 20:44:11 -0500
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_copper.net>
Subject: A Few Questions

I am getting my Delorean I just bought here a couple of days ago(this
upcoming Monday to Tuesday to be specific) and needed some help on a few
small things.
 1. What type of motor oil should I use in the car(I plan on having the oil
change when I get for safety purposes).

2.What fuses should I check for these minor problems: Radio inoperatable,
door lights and interior lights sometimes work, the door locks (which  seem
to act funny), and the blower/AC fan(cuts in and out).

3. When I receive it this upcoming week I plan to undercoat the bottom. I
checked NAPA and the best undercoating they have is water resistant,
partially rubber compound that will last for at least five years.(The car
has no frame rust and is a mid-year 81). Are their any special things I
should know before I undercoat it ?

4. The tank sending unit(fuel gauage) only works half the time. The previous
owner has just installed a new one within the past year from DMC Houston. Is
their a short or maybe a loose connection?


Joel

#3121




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 02:05:25 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Problem

Stian, 
Have you taken the cold start valve out and layed it on something on 
top of the engine like a white towell or paper and turned the engine 
over as to crank it, then you will see a little gas has spurted 
out.This will at least tell you if it's working. If not then you can 
start tracing back for electrical or stopped up fuel passage way.If 
this doesn't work and all else fail's, I have a hot start relay. 
John 

[Repeat quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 02:43:56 -0000
From: azelin242_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: No-start problem solved!

I finaly took care of the no start problem on the DeLorean I am 
looking at purchasing. It turned out to be an electrical problem in 
the fuel pump. I swear I could hear it running when I jumped the 
relay, but I guess I was wrong. So, the 'D' is up and running well. 
Best thing is, the current owner has agreed to subtract the price of 
the repair from the asking price of the vehicle! 

The bank is going to do it's inspection on the 'D' early next week, 
so I should be driving it by next weekend! Wish me luck, won't you?




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Message: 15
Date: 8 Nov 00 19:36:30 PST
From: james sawyer <mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Looking For a D]

Dear Sir
I know where a 1982 "D" is right now.  Sitting in barn with tires flat and
dropy doors with an antique cell phone.  I think vin 6050.  The car is red,
when I asked him how much he said make offer.

jim sawyer
mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net
vin4149
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 23:20:26 -0500 (EST)
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: Bits for sale

I have few leftover bits from my DMC Houston fixing, and figured I'd toss
'em up here before I try ebay. I have:

1- front fascia
1- rear fascia
1- rear louvre

All have standard 19-year-old-DMC wear. to wit:

front fascia has mild eyebrows. Nothing that, IMO, can't be fixed.
rear fascia has mild oxidation. Nothing that can't be repainted.
rear louvre has a stress crack in one of the center supports.

Pics are available at: http://onastick.net/sitz/images/DMC/

I honestly have no idea what's a fair price for these, but I figure half
the cost of a new one can't be too wacko. Based on the current pricing at
DMC Houston, I'm asking:

front fascia: $320
rear fascia:  $460
rear louvre:  $240

Thanks.

--noah

"I discovered my wife in bed with another man and 
I was crushed. So I said "Get off of me you two." 

                            -- Emo Phillips





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 22:51:57 -0600
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Fuel Pump Banjo Screw

Enlight of Stian's continuing problem, I was looking though the parts
manual and got confused.  Now, I am aware that there was a change in the
fuel pump banjo screw somewhere during the line.  The manual I was
looking at stated this changeover at VIN 10000.  Is this accurate?  And
I was also curious as to which fitting is the defective one (with the
bad check valve if memory serves me correct)?  Is it the two piece
fitting with the dome nut?  Or is it the single piece fitting with the
flatter head?  Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, (and not only by
me!).
-- 
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 23:18:18 -0600
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Lee's Model Kits- Questions about the Answers

A few months ago I received this message on the DML and I was wondering when
before Christmas we might expect to see the kits?

I've tried contacting Lee to see if my name is still on the list for the kit
that I bought two years ago but I still haven't received any responses.

It really sucks having to listen to my parrents nag me every couple of weeks
about something that i supposedly purchased two years ago and still haven't
even gotten a receipt for.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

> Lee has about 25 yet to finish and he is planning to devote the month of
> October to get them done. He hopes to have every last kit in the hands of
> the owners before Christmas.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 09:27:26 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Tires

Mark Noeltner said:

> Mike, Jim didn't mention anything about tire pressures
> in his post. I think you're reading something that isn't
> there. He's just asking about running a softer rubber
> compound which doesn't imply anything about tire
> pressures.  You CAN adjust handling with tire pressures,
> but he didn't ask or mention that.

Apparently I was very unclear, since Mark Noeltner and William T. Wilson both
thought I was only discussing changing tire pressures.  I was not.  What I
intended to say was that the recent headlines saying moderate changes in tire
pressure may have caused fatal accidents had alarmed me.  Right now I want to keep
both my tires AND their pressures as close to factory spec as possible.

Experimenting with softer tires seems wreckless.

However, I *do* wish my DeLorean had a softer, less sporty ride.  I would like to
try softer tires, but I will not attempt that experiment because do not trust
myself to judge its safety.  The question is, who should I trust to make that
judgement?  A mechanic?  A tire salesman?  My buddy who races Porsches in SCCA?

Some people at the automakers and Transportation Department must decide what tires
and pressures are safe for each car.  Who are they and what are their credentials?

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years, now running on yet another set of used NTCs at exactly spec
pressure until I can trust someone to recommend otherwise.




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 10:54:35 EST
From: jdsjlv_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: High RPM at start

Dear List:
When I start my car in the morning, the RPM's rev up to about 2000, then 
quickly drop back to idle. When the car is warm, it usually doesn't do it. If 
I turn the key a few times (before the starter turns over the engine) it will 
start easily and the RPM's don't go up to 2000, they stay at idle (this 
happens when hot or cold). Any thoughts as to what may be wrong or is this 
normal?
On a side note, I have noticed this at startup on my girl friends Jeep (1988).
Thanks,
Joshua Schwartz
001292
Trumbull, CT



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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 16:46:47 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Parts for sale - anyone?

I have been upgrading/replaced parts on my DeLorean VIN #06759.
Instead of trashing the old parts, I thought I'd use the list to find out if 
anyone has any interested in these parts... I will let them go VERY cheap:

PARTS
1 LH Original window regulator - works!

1 RH Original window regulator - works sometimes ;) Probably a bad worm 
gear, the motor is 100%

1 Fuel Sender (2nd edition). This was working ok, but I wanted a TankZilla!

1 Fuel Accumulator...it does work but Id guess its from 1981...I replaced 
mine just to be on the safe side

1 bracket for the resistor/light switch in the engine compartment. Needs to 
be sandblasted/repainted

2 original working tail light circuit boards. They have been improved a bit 
on the contact points.

2 windowframes (lh and rh side) for the little electric window

1 centre console (vertical)- needs sandblasting and new black bubble paint

1 centre console (horizontal - hole for clock) - needs sandblasting and new 
black bubble paint

1 used ash tray. This has corrosion inside, but otherwise its perfect. It is 
the one with "waves/lines" on top, not the newer "flat" one.

1 used resistor (engine compartment) I changed this just to freshen up the 
engine compartment...Its working as it should.


I'm not out to make a lot of money out of this, but if someone can use any 
of these parts for their car, please e-mail me privately. Thanks!

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN #06759

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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 17:30:44 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: throttle/frequency valve sticking

It sounds like someone has been fiddling with the adjustments on the 
idle stop, air intake, and micro switch. Make sure at idle position on 
the throttle that the microswitch is actually working, if necessary 
check with a meter. Next tighten all 3 screws on the air intake 
LOOSELY. Visually check all of the hoses, vacum, idle motor, etc. for 
correct routing and leaks. When hot disconnect the cold start valve  
on the off chance it is still sending in fuel and raising the idle. If 
it changes the idle speed then that system is causing the high idle. A 
bad pressure regulater could also affect idle but to check it you need 
a pressure gauge setup.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello,
>     I have a little problem here.  When I drive my car and shift the 
RPMs go 
> way up like I still have my foot on the gas but I don't.  I have to 
put it in 
> 2nd and brake until it gets back down to lower RPMS, and then 
release the 
> clutch to get the RPMS back down somewhat.  Messing with the gas 
pedal doesnt 
> help.  The linkage is not the problem.  



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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 12:46:20 -0500
From: jschwab <jschwab_at_dml_utkux.utcc.utk.edu>
Subject: RE: Tires

Correct me if I'm wrong, but "softer" tires means lower density rubber, and 
affects mostly the grip of the tire on the road and the wear durability of the 
tire.  Some prefer a "harder" higher density rubber tires for cars because it 
increases the life of the tire, in exchange for stopping distance and some 
handeling.  (There are even tires out that have dual density, so as the tire 
wears down, the lower density rubber emerges and the grip on the road 
increases.)  I hope this helps clarify what I think Jim was saying.

Why would changing the rubber density of the tire affect the safty, other than 
changing how the car handles?


John




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 12:01:11 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

I too am interested in a softer ride. But I don't think tires is the answer.
Check out midwestdmc's website about alternative struts/shocks.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Substelny" <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2000 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Tires


> Mark Noeltner said:
>
> > Mike, Jim didn't mention anything about tire pressures
> > in his post. 



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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 12:49:02 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Hot Start Problem

The thermo-time switch and the cold start valve have NOTHING to do with hot
start problems.

The purpose of the cold start valve is to inject a little squirt of fuel
into the engine to help it start ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD and ONLY WHILE
THE STARTER IS IN THE PROCESS OF CRANKING THE ENGINE.

If the thermo-time switch senses that the engine is warmer than 95F (35C)
then it disables the cold start valve.  Also, if the starter has been
cranking the engine for more than several seconds, then a heater inside the
thermo-time switch warms it up making it think that the engine is already
warm.  This disables the cold start circuit so that the engine won't flood.

The thermo-time switch went bad on my car.  It was stuck in the 'on'
position.  It caused the cold start valve to open whenever the starter was
engaged whether the engine was hot or cold.  This was more of a fire hazard
than anything else.  Outwardly, there were no symptoms.  I only discovered
this problem while trying to learn how this circuit operates so that I could
diagnose a different problem.

If you unplug the cold start valve and try to start the engine while it is
cold, the engine will be VERY hard to start.  If you unplug the cold start
valve while the engine is warm, it won't matter because the thermo-time
switch will disable it anyway.

The Delorean engineers made provision for a hot start relay thinking that in
extremely hot weather (hotter than 35C / 95F) that a cold engine could be
fooled into thinking that it was already warmed up because the ambient
temperature would be hotter than a cold engine.  However, this situation is
rare, so hot start relays were never made (except by John Hervy :)  I do not
recommend installing a hot start relay in your Delorean unless you find
yourself having trouble starting a cold engine after your car has been
sweltering in +95F / 35C weather.

Hope this clear up some misconceptions...
Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Rooney <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Date: Thursday, November 09, 2000 8:58 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Hot Start Problem


>It sounds like you may have a bad thermo-time switch. 



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