From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 2:11 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 301

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There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re:storage was oil filers
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Paging Matt Taylor...
From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

3. Re: Re:storage was oil filers
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 04:45:23 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re:storage was oil filers

I see I struck a nerve. There are many different ways to store a car 
and the opinions on what to do with the motor oil is a very 
controverstial area. In my experiance it really doesn't matter as long 
as you don't get flooded or are in too hot or too high a humidity. A 
bigger problem is the fuel. Fuel doesn't store well in cars. It is 
dangerous and unstable especialy the newer blends with the oxygenates 
and additives. The most important thing you can do is drain ALL of the 
fuel from the car in storage. Next it is best if the car is on 
jackstands, not just for the tires but so the springs are less 
stressed. The tires will be alright in a few miles as long as it's 
only a couple of months. The battery should be removed and kept fully 
charged. If the anti-freeze is old or acidic or weak it should be 
changed before storage. If the brake fluid is over 2 years old it 
should be flushed out with dot 4. The most important thing about 
storage is the way you bring a car out of it. You should manualy turn 
the engine over several times before trying to start it. You should 
add fresh fuel and a fully charged battery. As soon as it is warmed up 
change the oil and filter. This could get lengthy and I am sure there 
are many with other ideas on how to store and unstore a car. In all of 
the cars I have taken out of storage and in junkyards the smallest 
problem was internal corrosion in the motor not counting the cooling 
system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  Yes my car is now in storage for the winter


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Steve Rubano" <srubano_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> I agree that with Dave in supporting our well deserved Delorean 
parts 
> vendors and purchasing parts through them. I don't agree with 
storing 
> any car without changing the oil



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 00:06:20 -0500
From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Paging Matt Taylor...

A couple of years ago Matt Taylor sent me a picture of a white 1983
DeLorean -- Matt, if you're still on the list, would you e-mail me, please?
 It's in relation to my "Painted DeLoreans" website.

Thanks,
- Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL
- DeLorean: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
- Impala SS: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/brakes.htm



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 00:43:56 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Re:storage was oil filers

On Sun, 19 Nov 2000, jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net  wrote:

> bigger problem is the fuel. Fuel doesn't store well in cars. It is
> dangerous and unstable especialy the newer blends with the oxygenates
> and additives. The most important thing you can do is drain ALL of the
> fuel from the car in storage. Next it is best if the car is on

I disagree (although not strongly).  I think it is better to fill the fuel
tank and fill it with stabilizer, then drain it and refill it when you
un-store the car.  The primary advantages to a full tank with stabilizer
vs. an empty tank is that the parts will not dry out, and (if you are in a
humid area) there is no opportunity for the inside of the tank to corrode 
from ambient moisture.

But either are much better than just leaving half a tank of ordinary fuel
sitting around in the tank.

> jackstands, not just for the tires but so the springs are less
> stressed. The tires will be alright in a few miles as long as it's
> only a couple of months. The battery should be removed and kept fully

If you don't have stands, you can preserve the tires by moving the car a
foot or two (by pushing) every couple of weeks.  This will put a different
part of the tire facing down and keep flat spots from developing.

> charged. If the anti-freeze is old or acidic or weak it should be
> changed before storage. If the brake fluid is over 2 years old it

It's also important that the car be driven some after the antifreeze is
changed.  The new antifreeze needs to be circulated through both the
engine and the radiator to ensure that the anti-corrosive agents in the
new antifreeze get well distributed.

> should be flushed out with dot 4. The most important thing about
> storage is the way you bring a car out of it. You should manualy turn
> the engine over several times before trying to start it. You should
> add fresh fuel and a fully charged battery. As soon as it is warmed up
> change the oil and filter. This could get lengthy and I am sure there

Agreed!  But I think that (unless you live in a very humid area) it isn't
necessary to change the oil immediately after storage.  Oil doesn't spoil
but it does get contaminated.  Over time, little bits of crud in the
engine will tend to get into the oil whether the engine is run or not, and
this contaminates it.  But more of it will tend to get loose after a
period of driving after storage.  Once you unstore the car, you ought to
drive it for a couple of days and up to a hundred miles or two, then
change the oil.

Of course, if you are only storing the car for a few months over the
winter, it isn't really necessary to be so fussy especially if you can
drive the car periodically (to get the fuel and fluids circulated).  Most
of this really only applies if you are planning to store a car for several
years.




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