From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2000 2:08 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 308

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There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Gas Flap Hood
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Running rich
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

3. Re: Idle Speed Regulator Problems.
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

4. Re: RIO 2000 CONVENTION
From: Henry Breer <hbreer_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

5. Re: Adjustable Shocks
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Part number
From: james sawyer <mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net>

7. Tow Package
From: "Mike " <mquinto_at_dml_msn.com>

8. Backlit VS Digital?
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 04:45:03 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Gas Flap Hood

The proper way to weld the stainless is TIG or tungsten inert gas. It 
should be a variable frequency welder for maximum control. To control 
the heat you would use heat dam putty or just wet rags. Make sure that 
the welder uses the correct alloy filler rod or the weld color won't 
match and he may "blow-through". Do not use MIG you cannot control the 
amount of filler materiel as well or the heat. If you are real careful 
and slow and use the minimum amount of heat you do not have to worry 
about the fiberglass underneath. After grinding and graining you will 
probably have to go over the entire hood to get the finish to match. 
You should be able to find a welder capable of this work in any big 
city because all kitchen work is custom and most of it must be done in 
the field. You can also look for someone who does "hollow metal doors" 
or elevator doors. Many times these manufacturers work with stainless 
steel and are very capable in repair and graining.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 05:10:48 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Running rich

Chris, You say there is 12 volts, I assume that is to the FV. But is 
the other side of the FV grounded when your testing. The yellow/red 
wire coming off the RPM relay feeds 12v to the lambda relay coil when 
the car is running. If this is ok then check the 12v coming off 87b 
terminal or red/purple wire coming off the lambda relay going to the 
FV. If you have 12v there then make sure the FV is grounded thru the 
red/brown wire. Jolt it a few times with the voltage and if it 
doesn't run then it's probably bad. Make sure the lambda ECU is 
grounded and remove the connector and put it back.If you get the FV 
to run then let the 02 sensor heat up and depress the full throttle 
switch and see if it changes speed.
If it turnes out that the FV is bad. I will buy it. Hope it turns out 
to be something simple.  FV are about $120.00.
John Hervey

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "chris" <chris_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> Hi group
> 
> My frequency valve is not buzzing, i have tested the pin 3 on the 
diagnostic plug and direct to the frequency valve using a frequency 
meter and a scope and there is no nice 'square' wave in fact there is 
very little. There is +12v though.
> I was told solonoids are very reliable, but its possible in extreme 
hot and cold that it could cause them to stop working which could 
effect the ECU too. My car was left outside in NJ for around 8 years.
> 
> Also my cat was glowing red, could the frequency valve not working 
cause this?
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Chris
> Vin 16327
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:57:32 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Regulator Problems.

Using some spare wire, I ran a connection from the Idle Speed ECU 
directly to the terminal on the ignition coil. Still no change. The 
idle is still staying at a constant 2500 RPMs. Any ideas would be 
greatly appriciated at this point. As much as I love my car, I am 
starting to really regret buying it. Every time one thing is 
repaired, something else fails, and none of the problems are ever 
simple. Maybe my car is cursed...

-Robert
vin 6585




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:13:45 -0800
From: Henry Breer <hbreer_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RIO 2000 CONVENTION

 Okay, how about this 152 people were registered and 44 cars were
counted.
Some did not attend all events, some cars were locals who dropped in. We
also had apx. 10 or so who were walk-ins and some folks who saw our
signs at Rio and came to the product fair. 
 
  Mimi #1141 historian, DOA

Trevor L Johnson wrote:
> 
> There were over 120 people who registered for the weekends events.
> Although not every one was present at once. The largest number of people
> were present for the first night (Thursday, sponsored by Delorean motor
> center), The final Banquet (Saturday, sponsored by Delorean One) had
> approximately 105 people present.
> Trevor Johnson
> #6974 and 4055
> ________________________________________________________________
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> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:18:30 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Adjustable Shocks

Mike,

Here are some answers to your questions about PJ Grady's shocks:

The new rear shocks ARE coil-over adjustable.  As I said in a previous
message, the lower shock body has 3 grooves where a snap-ring fits.  Over
this snap-ring fits a collar which keeps the snap-ring captive and holds the
lower spring cup.  The rear height of the car can be adjusted according to
which groove you place the snap-ring into.  There are 3 grooves placed about
1/4 inch apart.  The highest groove is equivalent to the OEM ride height.
Rob said that he might start having the shocks made with more grooves in
them for people who want to lower the rear of the car more than 1/2 inch,
but it's probably not a good idea to go much lower than that.

Rob didn't say anything about adjusting them other than saying what
pressures they were supposed to run at.  He told me that they already had a
relatively light charge in them, yet they were more firm than typical
aftermarket shocks.  Based on that, I figured that I wouldn't want to be
adding any more charge to them anyway, so I didn't ask how.

Since the charge of nitrogen in them has such a high pressure and low volume
as compared to what you would find in a car tire, I think it would be
inappropriate to use a tire pressure gauge on them.  These aren't anything
like leaky door struts.  They will keep their charge over time.  And if they
ever fail or wear out (however unlikely) they are rebuildable.

I've noticed already that the car handles better.  At first I just noticed
that the ride is less bumpy.  But with more test driving I've found that the
rear tires stick to the ground better.  Sometimes I like to take fast
U-turns.  If I do it on a bumpy road, the rear tires loose traction and the
car over steers.  This can be really convenient when you want it to happen
and it happens the way you want it to.  But I'd just assume have the rear
tires not come loose so easily.  These new shocks do a better job at keeping
the rear tires planted on the road.  I think that the OEM shocks are so
stiff that they are as reluctant to elongate as they are to compress.  Once
compressed, they stay for a microsecond too long allowing the tires to loose
traction.

I'm looking forward to getting the new shocks and lower springs installed on
the front to see what more improvements I get in handling.

I would have changed the rear shocks sooner, but until I heard of PJ
Grady's, I haven't seen a design that I really liked.

I considered Byrne Heninger's kit.  It is basically a metal pipe which is
large enough for the shock to fit inside of.  It has holes in the bottom
which take the same bolt that holds the lower shock.  The kit requires a
longer bolt and spacers to make everything fit (which it comes with).  There
is a metal flange welded to the top of the pipe which provides a seat for
the spring cup.  This design allows you to use any aftermarket shock that
will fit inside of the pipe.  And the pipe is big enough to take the top of
the line Monroe unit which Byrne recommends.  He was very emphatic about how
good it is to get the weight of the car off of the shock body -- which this
does.  This kit is not adjustable.  You buy the version of the kit that is
made to put the rear ride height were you want it.  After that choice is
made, there is no more adjusting the height.  A disadvantage that I saw (or
maybe thought that I saw) was that there was nothing to keep the spring cup
from sliding sideways except for the force of the spring and the weight of
the car.  There is probably enough weight on the cup to keep it from moving,
but since both Marty's and PJ Grady's designs as well as the OEM design has
a flange that fits inside the cup to stop it from moving laterally, I didn't
like seeing Byrne's design neglect this.  Another point that worries me
about this design is that it is wider and requires a longer bolt to hold it
to the car.  This longer bolt will put more stress on the rear hub carrier,
but I am not qualified to say whether or not it is a safety issue.

Another solution that I considered was Marty Maier's.  I consider it the
next best thing to PJ Grady's and it is also less expensive.  His uses a
clamp that fits on the lower shock body and is very adjustable.  The
disadvantages, if any that I can tell, is that the weight of the car is
riding on a shock body that wasn't intended to hold that kind of weight.
Before Marty starts yelling and screaming at me, I'll have to say that I'm
sure the shock body is sturdy enough to hold the weight anyway.  If it's
strong enough to be a shock body, then it's probably also strong enough to
hold the weight placed on it by Marty's clamp.  Marty's design relies on
friction to hold the clamp in place.  It seems that the clamp could slip if
it were jarred hard enough, but he makes it with a good amount of surface
area to hold.  Also, I have heard of nobody having any problems with this
setup.  If you ever had to replace the shock, you would have to use one with
the same lower body diameter to fit the clamp properly.  If you want to
lower the rear of your D and you don't want to pay the higher price for PJ
Grady's product, then Marty's is the way to go.  Marty once made the comment
to me that the OEM shocks are so stiff that they might as well have used
steel rods.  I agree!

After seeing both Marty's and Byrne's design, I was ready to make one of my
own.  My design was going to be a hybrid of both of these.  I would have
used the pipe idea like Byrne did and then use a slip collar over it like
Marty did.  For the slip collar, I was going to start with a pillow block
(as used to hold a bearing) and machine the inside enough to fit over the
pipe.  I would also cut a lip in the top to fit a little inside of the
spring cup to keep it from shifting laterally.  Since pillow blocks were
only available in cast iron, I would have had to make something from
scratch.  But then Rob seduced me with his 'custom made from scratch
specifically for the Delorean' shocks.  I just had to have a set.  And I
bought these after I already had a new set from NAPA ready to put on the
front.

Walt    Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike <mquinto_at_dml_msn.com>
Date: Sunday, November 19, 2000 9:24 PM

>I wonder who makes them for Rob?
>Did Rob say anything about adjusting the shocks yourself. Or needing
>to buy a shock gauge.
>I do know by experience that if you do not use a heavy duty valve
>cores they will leak over time.
>
>Does anyone know if he plans on making coil-over adjustable shocks.
>I really would be in the purchasing mode for them.





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Message: 6
Date: 23 Nov 00 11:01:54 PST
From: james sawyer <mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net>
Subject: Part number

Group,
For those that are keeping track of such things the correct part number for
the exhaust manifold gasket from Volvo is 1218373.  This part is all one piece
not 3 and fits like a glove.  Part cost 15.01, takes about 2 hours to put in
when laying on your back in the garage. 

By the way I installed John Herveys fan fix.  Worked perfect, John was alsways
ready to answer any questions.  He even called me back to make sure the part
went in OK.  I give him two thumbs up for parts and his wonderful service. 
Thanks John.

Jim Sawyer
vin 4149
"ELMO"

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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 02:35:09 -0000
From: "Mike " <mquinto_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Tow Package

Hello List,
A while back someone had mentioned that they had either bought a tow 
hitch and modified it or had one custom made for their DeLorean.
Has anyone on this list done this to thier DeLorean to tow a class 1 
trailer.
Regards,
Mike vin#1113





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 00:05:03 -0500
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Backlit VS Digital?

The first time I saw a post about the Digital Dash from Dakota digital I
looked at it and thought it would be the coolest thing!  It might be a
little nightriderish, but it seems like an appropriate modification for a
car as sleek as the Delorean.  I have been debating whether to get on the
bandwagon for the digital dash, or the backlit dash, which seems to be a
happy medium between stock and digital.  I do Have some questions which I
would like clarified about these items:
The digital dash, would it require calibration of the speedometer or any
other guages?   I am not sure how all of the wires are connected under
there, but how much of a bear would it be to get everything hooked up?
Where would the power be supplied from to run the dash constantly, and how
much power does it take?  The group discout brought the price down to $600
around, but if it will require a lot of retrofitting and wire splicing, it
may not be worth it.
The Backlit dash seems to be the best way to go, as it would be completely
stock when the lights are out (if you care about stock look) and you can
get it with a faster spedometer.  
Would the speedometer be calibrated by the maker, or is that something we
would need to take care of? for $250 I am inclined to go with the backlit
dash.
I feel that it is important to get these questions answers before people
start emptying their pockets more than they had thought they would need to.
Thanks
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167
6808 



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