Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 2:02 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 317

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

From: "DMC Joe" <>

2. Re: Condesating Quarter-windows
From: Josh Weader <>

3. First Pic of Backlit gauge online
From: Jim Reeve <>

4. Dielectric grease on fuses (was Fuse block (was Fuses))
From: "Walter" <>

5. Advantages of Fanzilla (was Re: Fuse block (was Fuses))
From: "Walter" <>

6. Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
From: "Walter" <>

7. Mysterious current drain
From: "Walter" <>

8. fan fail+ door module
From: " " <>

9. De Lorean Restoration in Real-time

10. DeLorean photos/negatives on Ebay
From: James Espey <>

11. Re: Re: Fuses-a new question

12. Fuel line
From: Willie Mack <>

13. interesting item found in my car
From: "Kevin Creason" <>

14. cabin lights
From: "Kevin Creason" <>

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 22:54:29 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: DMCJOE

To All,

We are making several changes between our URL and  website, for the next
several days you can use our temporary web address at

"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<>

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 8:12 PM
Subject: [DML] DMCJOE

> Just wondering what happened to the delorean services web site?
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 20:32:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Josh Weader <>
Subject: Re: Condesating Quarter-windows

> Is there anyway to keep the glass in the rear-quarter-panels
> from collecting condensation?

You mentioned RainEx on the outside of the windows, but as I understand
your question it's about the *inside* of the windows.  RainEx also has a
product designed to prevent window fogging.  I know it works fairly well
on the inside of windshields (although I have not applied it to my D yet);
this might also be a solution for the inside of the rear quarter-windows.
Living in (now very chilly) New England, my rear quarter windows fog up
virtually every morning when I start the car.

I have not yet tried the RainEx anti-fog product because it suggests an
ambient temp of at least 45 degrees for application, and it hasn't been
quite that warm around here for a while.  Has anyone tried this product?


Vin #5553


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 00:23:04 -0600
From: Jim Reeve <>
Subject: First Pic of Backlit gauge online

I have the first prototype (and I emphasize PROTOTYPE) of one of my
backlit gauges complete.  It is the face of the speedometer.  Overall, I
am very pleased with how it turned out, but I am very disappointed by
the performance of my digital camera.  The pictures I took all turned
out much darker than the face really is, and I had to choose just one
picture to show, which turned out the best.  Please, dont be deterred by
the look of this picture, remember, it is really much brighter, and is
only a prototype.  I am only posting it to give people a very general
idea of what I am doing.  The picture can be found at .  If you experience problems with this
site, I have also uploaded the picture to the vault.  I want comments! 
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 01:32:15 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Dielectric grease on fuses (was Fuse block (was Fuses))


Unless someone can give you a positive report on using the dielectric
grease, I wouldn't experiment with it.  It sounds too much like crimping a
solder connection.  There is a rule concerning solder connections:  It is
okay to solder a crimp connection, but never crimp a solder connection.
Solder, when melted to a piece of metal makes a good connection.  But when
friction is holding the solder, it is a lousy connection that often heats up
melting/burning the solder and makes a general mess of things.  It seems to
me that dielectric grease would be a similar situation except perhaps more
flammable.  This grease (if it's the stuff I'm thinking of) is generally
used in low current applications where there is no heat generated to burn

Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Reeve <>

>What about a VERY small dab of
>Dielectric grease on both pins for the fuse?


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 02:21:25 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Advantages of Fanzilla (was Re: Fuse block (was Fuses))


If you are going to wire a separate relay for each fan, then I think it
would be a good idea instead of using one 40 amp breaker, to use two 20 amp
breakers -- one for each fan.  Then if one fan kicks a breaker, it won't
take the other fan with it.

The Fanzilla module uses two 20 amp fuses with two relays.
(I don't mean to pick on you John, but even the Zilla engineer agrees with
my fuse sizing recomendation. :)
Each relay has a delay.  When the fans are supposed to come on (either
because of the otterstat or the a/c) the delays allow the a/c compressor to
first come on by itself.  Then a moment later the delay on the first relay
expires allowing the first radiator fan to come on.  Then a moment after
this, the delay on the second relay expires allowing the second fan to come
on.  When the fans turn off, the delays work the same way but in reverse.
This really helps smooth out the load on the electrical system and reduces
spikes to sensitive stereo equipment.  When I shut my car off, the last fan
will still be running as I open the door.  The sound alone gives a cool
effect.  People see me drive up and they hear the engine stop.  Then they
hear one fan turn off and then a moment later the second fan turns off.  It
makes people wonder just what all those noises are.  I say that it's just
the flux capacitor winding down.

Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Reeve <>

>Is the 40A breaker going to be sufficient,
>or should I put some fuses in there for each fan while I'm at it?


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 02:23:08 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain


I have trouble shooted mysterious current drains in Randy's Delorean.  While
doing so, I have found that both my original door lock module and Randy's
module draws the same 11.7 mA when sitting idle.

The Lockzilla module sitting idle draws 11.1 mA.

The Lockzilla module with the optional keyless remote entry draws 22.3 mA.

Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Grimsrud, Knut S <>
>I'm not sure if the LockZilla
>similarly draws a trickle current as I only have stock door lock modules in
>my cars.


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 02:23:30 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Mysterious current drain

On Randy's Delorean VIN 3228 with automatic transmission, the starter
disable relay is energized even while the ignition is switched off.  This
draws enough current to drain his battery in short order.  To live with
this, he switches the battery off whenever he isn't using the car.

Can anyone say what is going on here?  Was there supposed to be a starter
modification performed on this VIN in order to correct a problem in the
starter circuit and it wasn't done right?  Or was it done on a car that
shouldn't have had it done?  Or is there some other reason that I'm not
aware of?

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 16:42:14 -0000
From: " " <>
Subject: fan fail+ door module

I think it's really creative for us on the list to discuss different 
ways to compensate for the shortcommings of these 2 major areas of the 
car's electronics. While some of the fixes are "interesting" many 
people on the list are not mechanics or electricians. They are 
looking for something that is simple to install and reliable. Instead 
of trying to reinvent the wheel the Zilla line of products is exactly 
what the car needs.There is something to be said for a standard fix so 
that it would be easy for someone else to troubleshoot.If you build 
your own fix then pity the next owner or mechanic to try to figure out 
what was done.In addition to a "non standard fix" most people are 
notoriously bad when it comes to documentation. All one has to do is 
see a few of the "fixes" in the fuel pump circuit because the person 
didn't understand the inertia switch or RPM relay.If you have not yet 
installed the Lockzilla or Fanzilla you should. At some point your fix 
WILL fail or your origional parts will fail and the price for the 
Zillas will seem small compared to the aggrivation, towing, collateral 
damage etc. on a second subject I have been using an eastwood product 
called "KOPR-SHIELD". I can't yet say it is the answer to bad contacts 
in the fuse block but I haven't had any problems yet. I suppose the 
best protection is to keep the contacts clean and TIGHT. If the 
contacts are not tight then a vicious circle of events occurs. The 
hotter the contacts get the less tension on the connecters the less 
tension the more heat until events run away and you have a melt-down. 
The first sign might be a smell.It would be very prudent to keep a 
small fire extingwisher in the event of the unthinkable. On a recent 
trip with another "D" his fan relay bypass wire melted and lead to a 
few scary moments. Fortunatly there was no damage and we repaired it 
temporarlay so he could drive home. The bypass wire was supposed to be 
a temporary fix untill the factory could do better 18 years ago! How 
many cars are out there running on the origional fan relay or the 
bypass wire? The first thing a new owner should do is get the relay 
and circuit breaker upgrades and 2 Zillas.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 YES I have installed the Zillas and they are GREAT


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 13:37:05 EST
Subject: De Lorean Restoration in Real-time

Hey List,

     I just got my frame back from the powdercoater today, and let me tell looks great!!   I plan on putting my car back together next Sunday 
(12/9/00).  If anyone in the Long Island area wants to stop by and view a De 
Lorean restoration in real time, e-mail me and I will give you the directions 
to my house.  The reason I have to do it all in one day is really a long 
story, but the really edited version of that story is because my town is a 
bunch of dummy heads and they won't let me work on this beautiful vehicle 
while it is apart, so I am being forced to do it all in one day.  And don't 
worry for all of you who aren't able to come over and watch...I got lots o' 
film to use up.  Please let me know if anyone is interested in stopping by.  



Message: 10
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 13:22:19 -0500
From: James Espey <>
Subject: DeLorean photos/negatives on Ebay

Earlier this year there was a guy on Ebay selling photographs and 
some negatives of the DeLorean, factory, etc. If it was someone on 
the DML that bought those items, I would like to talk you about 
getting prints of the negatives or copies for display in our new 
Houston warehouse/showroom.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas



Message: 11
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 15:33:12 EST
Subject: Re: Re: Fuses-a new question

I am hoping not to prolong this if you have already answered this question but....
You said that a heavier fuse connection instead of the stock one which is not sturdy? enough. Does one of the Delorean dealers have this part. I have several melted/overused fuse holders in my fuse box and was wondering if somebody had a stock looking replacement for this. I know that I can change to an aftermarket part but would like to retain the stock look of the car(but not the Lucas wiring flaws).
Thanks for your time!


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 21:11:05 -0500
From: Willie Mack <>
Subject: Fuel line

What is the diameter of the Delorean's fuel line?  Is it a standard 5/16" or
3/8"  ??

 Vin 5043


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 20:48:29 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <>
Subject: interesting item found in my car

I was poking around under my carpeting behind the seats and I found this little piece of paper that used to be stuck to something, but had come loose and was folded into a crack near the seatbelt latch.
It says:
<funny symbol w/ FR in it>
Bros Ltd
Cambro Works
School Lane
Date: 28/9/81  Batch No.: 1.
Part number: <empty> Signature: <empty> " :-(

The symbol is double circle with an upside down triangle in the middle; and the FR is in the triangle. It's rather large.

BTW- I'm 10/81, #4687

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 20:54:11 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <>
Subject: cabin lights

Also, while poking around behind the seats, I just discovered the rear light. I've only had the car a monthish, so that's not THAT bad of me not to have seen it before.

This light does work in a door open position, where the front cockpit light does not work in the door position, only in the always on position. The rear one also stayed on a while a few times after closing the door, but other times went right out.  Weirdness, yes; what to do?

My passenger door lights don't always work, but that is definitely their switches fault. Could they be related problems?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]