Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 2:02 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 320

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There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. MINT Delorean Leather Seat Covers NOS - $795 US
From: "MrCopies" <>

2. cabin lights
From: Brent Beecher <>

3. Re: Cabin lights

4. Re: Fuses-a new question
From: "John Hervey" <>

5. Partial Throttle problems
From: "Chris C" <>

6. speedo problem....

7. Re: Cabin lights
From: "Robert Rooney" <>

8. Re: Cabin lights
From: "Walter" <>

9. Nor Cal radio help,

10. DeLorean Canada
From: "Kevin " <>

11. Sad News
From: "Chip Shirek" <>

12. Stainless Steel cleaner

13. Illuminated Key Assembly Instructions
From: James Espey <>

14. Re: speedo problem....
From: " " <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 00:11:17 -0600
From: "MrCopies" <>
Subject: MINT Delorean Leather Seat Covers NOS - $795 US

I just found a former Dealer with a stash of MINT NOS (New Old Stock) GRAY
seat covers.  They've been properly stored and are still in their original

In order for me to buy them at the discounted price I had to commit to
purchasing them all (as you can wife is thrilled.) :)   (7
complete sets - enough to do both my seats and 6 other Deloreans).  They are
in mint condition - leather seats are perfect - NOT cracked, scarred, faded,
torn or damaged in any way...the dealer simply wants to recover his costs
and pick up some storage space.

I'm having a professional car upholstery company install a set on my car and
will have pics online in about a week or so.

I just want to emphasize - these are original Delorean seat covers - not
knock-offs or replicas.  You're not going to get stuck with something that
"almost fits" or "sorta looks right".  These are gray leather ORIGINAL
equipment Delorean seat covers.

Replacing your seat covers makes an excellent winter project and will
transform the interior of your car....not to mention...they'd make an
awesome Christmas gift.   At $795 US + shipping they are essentially 1/2
price.  I purposely didn't mark them up so that I could sell them all
quickly (and stay married).  In addition we can make arrangements for people
that would like to charge them on a credit card.

These seat covers are first come, first if you're interested
please email me privately today.


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 01:14:35 -0700
From: Brent Beecher <>
Subject: cabin lights

For you folks whose front cabin light works in the manually on position, but
not with the doors, I had the same problem.  In my case, it was caused by
the previous owner who had removed the wires for one reason or other, and
replaced them incorrectly.  It might seem intuitive that the black wire
would go to the isolated "pin", and the two kinds of purple wires would go
to the "pins" near each other, but that's not the way it works.  If memory
serves, the solid purple wire is the one that goes to the isolated pin, and
the other two go to the pins near each other.  That was my problem.  After
spending some time with the manual, my first thought was that I had a
defective diode, which may be the problem, too.  They are the blue, black,
and red plastic cylinders (about pencil diameter, and about an inch long)
that you can see from the driver's side, down under the console.  Hope this
is helpful.

Brent Beecher
VIN 892


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 12:25:51 EST
Subject: Re: Cabin lights

In his response to the original post Dave Swingle referred to a modification 
that had been published in an old D World.

The article was published in the Winter -87 issue and the first paragraph 
reads: " The operation of the exsisting lamp delay module (LDM) is 
unpredictable at best. This is due to the design of the device, which uses 
power stored within the module while the doors are closed and the lamps are 
off to sustain the module through a subsequent delay. If the doors are open 
for 30 seconds or so the power stored is depleted to the pointwhere upon 
closing the doors the lamp delay will be significantly shorter or may not 
function at all. There isn't a reliable way to increase the time delay using 
the present module."

The article was written by Marc Gladstone and he went on to describe a rather 
complex but complete modification, including a parts list and wiring diagram. 
At the end of the article, Marc indicated that he would be willing to build 
some modules if there was enough interest. (I have not yet had time to read 
through my stack of old D World magazines to find out if he in fact did "go 
into production".)

Unfortunately my scanner is on the blink, but if anybody is interested send 
me an e-mail and I'll send a copy of the article.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 06:22:37 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: Re: Fuses-a new question

Barry, I have a close looking fuse block that I make up.Sure it may 
not be a boat anchor looking block. But It looks pretty close to 
original. I have tested it with 30amp fuses running the fans and 
there is no heat. Take a look at the wires underneath your fuse that 
has the melted. Are the wires melted. If not then there is nothing 
wrong with the lucas wiring. The problem may be in the connections or 
the item being protected.  If the cover has been on then that will 
contribute to the heat problem. Also, the new Fan Fail Plug in mod is 
up. The programmer called it a relay.That will be changed tomorrow. 

 --- In, qrorell_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I am hoping not to prolong this if you have already answered this 
question but....
> You said that a heavier fuse connection instead of the stock one 
which is not sturdy? enough. Does one of the Delorean dealers have 
this part. I have several melted/overused fuse holders in my fuse box 
and was wondering if somebody had a stock looking replacement for 
this. I know that I can change to an aftermarket part but would like 
to retain the stock look of the car(but not the Lucas wiring flaws).
> Thanks for your time!
> Barry


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 20:18:31 -0000
From: "Chris C" <>
Subject: Partial Throttle problems

Before we replaced anything, we thought it could have been the 
pressures. The pressures on all injectors was the exact same, so we 
eliminated that problem. The car is a 5 speed manual, and we've 
checked all vaccuum lines including replacing the o ring on the 
vaccuum tube inside the manifold. Perhaps the fuel lines would be a 
good place to start, my father claims the fuel pump changes notes. 
The problem is most noticible in first gear,if I have accelerated and 
then take my foot off the gas, it feels like you were inside of a 
washing machine. Even at 1500 rpm though, the engine does not sound 
completely smooth. I will check the fuel line, as you said, and keep 
you posted.


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 15:28:32 EST
Subject: speedo problem....

Hello all,

i have a problem with my speedometer. let me start at the beginning of the 

i just purchased an '82 D last month.  it was the best purchase i ever made!  
but as always, there is a small handful of things to touch up on it.  i'm 
still learning about the delorean as i go, so bear with me.

anyway, i live in fargo ND where it is pretty darn cold right now.  i had the 
car on the road for about a week before it started snowing and i had to put 
it into storage.  anyway, once a week, on a good bright day, i head over to 
the garages to start the car up and take it out for a brief 10 minute jog 
through all the gears.  the day that i brought the car over to be stored it 
was pretty cold out and i noticed immediately that the speedometer was not 
functioning at all.  this was about 3 weeks ago and it has not worked since.  
for the while that i had the car regularly, it never had any problems. 

now i have talked with the previous owner and he has informed he that it is 
not the lower cable or angle drive because both of these were just replaced 
early this year.  he's right because upon inspection, the tubes look very 
fresh and all the connections seem nice and tight, very new looking.  now 
what can it be that is causing my speedo to act up?  the prev owner also told 
me that this summer he was having intermittent problems with the speedo and 
his mechanic took apart his lambda counter, greased it up, put it back 
together, and it all worked again. 

is the lambda counter a likely suspect?  if so, should i just invest in a new 
one or should i attempt to take it apart and put it back together?  is there 
something else that is more likely?  most of the speedo discussion i have 
seen have all centered around the lower cable and angle drive - i have heard 
of on one having lambda counter problems.

thanks for any help!
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 20:35:54 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <>
Subject: Re: Cabin lights

Could the module handle 2 additional lights being plugged into it? In 
other words if I decided to install lights in the footwells could I 
also have them on the delay circuit? If so I'd rather be able to use 
my current unit rather then modify it (if something works "properly" 
on my car I'd just assume leave it alone!).

vin 6585

--- In, rbrogren_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In his response to the original post Dave Swingle referred to a 
> that had been published in an old D World.
> The article was published in the Winter -87 issue and the first 
> reads: " The operation of the exsisting lamp delay module (LDM) is 
> unpredictable at best. This is due to the design...


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 15:45:42 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Cabin lights

I noticed that on Randy's Delorean, it has what appears to be a modified
lamp delay module.  It has a small potentiometer epoxied to the top of it.
I assume this is to make the delay adjustable with a small screwdriver.

Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: <>

>At the end of the article, Marc indicated that he would be willing to build
>some modules if there was enough interest


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 15:55:34 EST
Subject: Nor Cal radio help,

Are there any owners in the northern California area who can
recommend a place to go for radio work on a DeLorean?  I'm in
Modesto just south of Stockton but I'm willing to drive to other
locations if necessary.  I would like to get my original radio
fixed and put back in, but I also need someone to take it out for
me and I would like to find someone who has done one before.

I'm willing to pay a private owner in the area who has done it and
would be willing to help me out (at least in getting it out).
Thanks for any help...please send e-mail to my address,



Message: 10
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 21:35:08 -0000
From: "Kevin " <>
Subject: DeLorean Canada

Hi DMLers!

  I recently changed my webpage from Blast 59's DMC Page, which I 
thought sounded a little funny, to DeLorean Canada.  Since there 
isn't a webpage out there from Canada devoted to the DeLorean, I 
thought it was about time!  (If anyone else has one, it is really 
hard to find)  I'm asking for all the Canadian owners on the list to 
please send me a picture of yourself and/or your car plus your name 
to (delorean(at)  The site has just 
started, so please be patient!

Kevin Rawlings
<a href="">DeLorean canada</a>


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 14:59:47 -0700
From: "Chip Shirek" <>
Subject: Sad News

Hello list,
    Its been a while since ive posted but im still alive. Im sorry to say,
that due to difficult times, im am having to sell my delorean.  To anybody
in the market here are some quick highlights:
-D is located in Hemet, California
-1981 w/ gas flap #1230  Manual Trans/with black interior
-Many electrical updates and replaced parts
-Runs great
-New battery, tires, drivers seat, struts
-never been in a wreck/ no dings dents
-always serviced at Delorean Motor Center in anhiem

to anybody interested, ive put all the information up on my webspace at   (sometimes its a little slow, but its
IF (and i stress if) for some reason it doesn't work, you can always email
me with picture requests and questions at

It is a very nice delorean that we would like to hopefully sell  very soon.
We would like to get 13,500 for it but i would assume any respectable offer
would be considered. Please either email me or call richard at 909.927.5065

Thank you for your time
C. Shirek #1230


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 18:32:42 EST
Subject: Stainless Steel cleaner

We picked up some "Stainless Steel Magic," stainless steel cleaner, and I was 
wondering if anyone knew anything about it, like if it works and if it is ok. 
It looks good to me, and it is in a white spray bottle. It says to spray on a 
clean white cloth. It also says to wait a couple of minutes and buff to a 
high luster. 
       When it says buff, it means with the grain right? I am under the 
impression to do everything with the grain..... It says it's good for sinks, 
coolers, ranges and hoods, but I don't see "DeLorean" on it at all.

Thanks a lot,
John Feldman
VIN 4275

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 17:46:24 -0500
From: James Espey <>
Subject: Illuminated Key Assembly Instructions

Someone emailed me about how the pieces of the illuminated door key 
go together. I lost their email but I uploaded a PDF file here:

For those who want more information on the illuminated keys, check here:

and here:

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas



Message: 14
Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 04:50:43 -0000
From: " " <>
Subject: Re: speedo problem....

The easiest way to find the problem in the speedo is to raise the left 
front wheel and while an assistant rotates the wheel you disconnect 
the cable to the lambda counter and see if the inner cable is 
turning.If it isn't the trouble is between there and the wheel for 
instance the angle drive, the drive cover, or lower cable. If the 
inner cable is turning reattach to the counter and remove the upper 
cable. The lambda counter should now be turning. The problem is now 
the upper cable or the speedo itself. Most of the time the problem is 
between the wheel and lambda counter. Make sure that you have properly 
attached the cable to the counter and that there is a support bracket 
on the lower cable. To check the drive cover remove the left wheel and 
in the center is a round plastic disc. In the center is a SQUARE hole 
that engages the cable to the angle drive. Sometimes it will get 
rounded out and not turn the square cable to the angle drive. When you 
rotate the square cable if you remove the lower cable from the angle 
drive you can see if the angle drive is turning. while you are there 
it should be lubricated. Remove the screw and shoot some oil or light 
grease into it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757