Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 11:13 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 329

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Battery drain

2. Re: Battery drain
From: "Walter" <>

3. Re: Re: sparkplugs
From: "Walter" <>

4. rebuilding transmission filter
From: "Walter" <>

5. New Clutch Slave Cylinder

6. Re: Road noise
From: <>

7. Re: Re: Door lock module
From: Marc A Levy <>

8. Re: Battery drain
From: " " <>

9. Re: sparkplugs
From: " " <>

10. DeLorean model
From: Joe Fedeli <>

11. Lambda System
From: "chris" <>

12. Ceramic Coating the Exhaust system
From: "Sean Howley" <>

13. off topic. Oldsmobile
From: Mark Fearer <>

14. Re: door guides
From: "DMC Joe" <>

15. Re: Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
From: "DMC Joe" <>

16. Re: Fans, doors, and lights (oh, my!)
From: "DMC Joe" <>

17. Re: Re: Door lock module (was Steering Wheel recovering)
From: "DMC Joe" <>

18. Re: New Subject
From: "DMC Joe" <>

19. Material on Rear Package Shelf
From: "Scot Stern" <>

20. Re: sparkplugs
From: "John Hervey" <>

21. Re: sparkplugs
From: "John Hervey" <>

22. Re: Continuous Idle
From: "John Hervey" <>

23. Re:Delorean fires...
From: "John Hervey" <>

24. Re: Re: door locks
From: "Joe Sorrentino" <>

25. Delorean parts for sale

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 01:39:45 EST
Subject: Re: Battery drain

In a message dated 12/13/00 1:34:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

<<  I wonder if I have missed something obvious? >>

     You didn't say anything about the radio, remember that in order to keep 
the pre-set radio stations, there has to be a constant power source to the 



Message: 2
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 03:08:19 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Battery drain


The syntax on how you are connecting your meter is not clear, but I'll take
a stab at what your problem may be.  Randy's car has a similar problem which
is that his starter disable relay is always active even when the ignition is
switched off.  So if he leaves his car with the key removed and the
transmission in park or neutral, then the relay stays switched on and his
battery drains.  Disconnecting the battery or leaving the car in any gear
kills the relay.

So with your ignition switched off, try putting your car in anything besides
park or neutral and listen for the starter disable relay.  --- that is if
your car is an automatic.  Maybe a manual transmission works the same way.
I don't know.

Just a shot in the dark...
And can anyone suggest what is up with Randy's car?  What would cause the
relay to operate with the ignition off?

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 03:10:10 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Re: sparkplugs

So which plug is better for the Delorean?  Bosch Coppertip, Bosch Platinum+4
or Bosch w/silver electrode?


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 03:44:39 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: rebuilding transmission filter

I rebuilt my transmission filter like David Teitelbaum said to do and it
went great.  The hardest part was keeping the flattened copper pipe from
working loose as I was putting it on.  I used a Dremmel tool with a small
cutting bit to slit the copper pipe.  This was a bit more of a job than the
tool was meant to handle, so I divided it up into 4 cutting sessions so that
it wouldn't over heat too much.  I soldered the ends of the pipe together
using a 250 Watt soldering gun meant for electronics.  A better choice may
have been oxy/acetleyne, but I didn't feel like dragging the tanks out or
getting the brass screen too hot.

One step David didn't mention is that you will have to drill out the 3 bolt
holes as these are crimped around also.

I cleaned the screen with a disc brake type degreaser.  It worked great.  I
used a magnet and my fingernail to get a few stubborn metal flakes out of
it.  Be aware that tri-chloro-ethane is VERY poisonous to breath.

When you are done, be sure to put the magnet back on the filter in the same
place.  At 12,600 miles, my filter magnet had way more than twice the amount
of particles stuck to it than was stuck in the brass screen inside the
filter.  In fact, the magnet didn't look like it had any more room for
particles to stick to it, but the pan had no residue to speak of other than
a thin film of gray that wiped out with a paper towel.  I went to Radio
Shack and bought a 2 pack of high energy rare earth magnets.  I put both of
these on other spots of the filter keeping them out of the way of the inlet
port.  I would have stuck some magnets in the pan, but I bought the only
pack they had on the shelf.

I have seen old posts on the DML that some people had the opinion that the
Delorean automatic transmission would last longer without a filter.  Based
solely on my observations from rebuilding my filter, I disagree.  Besides
the magnet appearing to be saturated, the brass screen inside had very
little debris outlining one corner.  The screen appears to offer little
resistance to fuild flow.  If you decide to run it without a filter, at the
very least put some magnets around there.  They pick up more than the


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 10:52:36 -0000
Subject: New Clutch Slave Cylinder

Hi All,

   My Clutch Slave Cylinder has given up the ghost !!!

   I have seen that the cross reference for this is a 
   Bendix : FC-313211.

   Has anyone actually used this part ??

   I live in the UK so can buy one of these direct from a local
   supplier but would like confirmation that this is indeed the
   correct part before I purchase it.

   I can then get it fitted and back on the Road...
   (My alternative is to get one from the USA which costs more $$)


   John G.


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 03:58:20 -0700
From: <>
Subject: Re: Road noise

Road noise is something I've noticed too.  I've often wondered if some kind
of insulation or spray on material could be applied to the wheel wells so
some of the road noise could be softened or deadened a bit.  Any idea's?  I
added sound proofing to the back wall under the rear window and that helped
reduce the engine noise some but was hoping somebody had an idea for the
road noise from the tires.

Mike Atkinson
vin 16232

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Reeve" <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 7:27 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: New Subject

" I personally have never been bothered by actual road noise, but there
 is another aspect to this which I dont know if many people realize.
 When going over bumps, the plastic body has a tendency to resonate,........


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 09:00:37 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <>
Subject: Re: Re: Door lock module

I was looking in to a similar device to put on the power window circuit. 

My goal was to use the high current condition of the window motor when it
reaches the end of travel to cut the circuit.  Kind of like a self resetting
(with time delay) circuit breaker.

I imagine a similar device can be used on the door lock system as well.

It would be simple to make such a device, but I have some leads on products that
already exist that do this.

Walter wrote:
> What do y'all think about designing a new door lock module that senses
> current draw to test the state of the door locks?  This would give me the
> feed-back loop that I'm looking for without adding new wires in the door.


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 15:23:27 -0000
From: " " <>
Subject: Re: Battery drain

Try disconnecting the big heavy wire to the alternator. With a draw 
that large I am guessing that you have some shorted diodes in it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, rbrogren_at_dml_a... wrote:

> I have noticed that the battery drains down from fully charged to 
about 9 
> Volts in 2-3 days. 

> Roger
> VIN 1074
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 15:41:16 -0000
From: " " <>
Subject: Re: sparkplugs

Rob Grady was recommending the platinum plugs for years. He has been 
getting cars back for repeat tuneups and has noticed that the seal on 
the platinum plugs (between the porcelin and the metal shell) has been 
leaking. He has also received complaints on the plugs. It doesn't 
happen on every plug but in light of his experience and the high cost 
difference he no longer recommends installing them. Any slight 
improvement will be offset by leakage. The car operates just fine on 
the standard Bosch plugs if properly gapped and installed. I think the 
micro washers are fine for race applications but for a street car the 
effort is not worth it. Before modifying the car talk to a Delorean 
parts vender, they see cars with many more miles and many more cars 
then most people and can comment knowledgebly on your "improvements".
Many of the ideas you see have been tried and anything good that 
stands the "test of time" will have been incorporated by now. There 
are no "magic bolt-ons" that will measureably improve the motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 15:04:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Joe Fedeli <>
Subject: DeLorean model

Does anyone know the status for the Christmas delivery of Lee's models? 
Joe Fedeli

Send a cool gift with your E-Card


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 23:10:28 -0000
From: "chris" <>
Subject: Lambda System

My Frequency valve was not working so i tested the valve using an ohm meter and found the reading was 2ohms which is correct according to the technical manual. I connected 1 terminal of the FV to +12v and the quickly touched the engine with the other and the FV clicked. I checked both the FV and the ECU were getting +12v from the Lambda relay and the ECU was grounded correctly. This was all OK so i checked the ECU out of circuit and found it was dead. Steve Wynne told me they never fail and he has only sold 3 or 4. A friend of mind had a look at the ECU as he is an electronics engineer and found the IC had blown so 50 cents later it was all fixed!!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 19:11:11 -0500
From: "Sean Howley" <>
Subject: Ceramic Coating the Exhaust system

In case any of you are interested, I recently had my exhaust system ceramic coated by a local coater here (this would be the same type of coating that Jet-Hot would do) in Knoxville, TN.  The cost to me was $405 after tax.  The parts coated were all of the exhaust parts (clamps, tubes, muffler, cat, man, etc.) and the sway bar and mounts.  I have uploaded 6 pics showing before and after for this coating to eGroups.  Look for Ceramic Coating.  I am very pleased with how it turned out!

Sean Howley

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 22:09:15 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Fearer <>
Subject: off topic. Oldsmobile

 I am forwarding an e-mail from a Pontiac list. I feel that most of us
will find it to be interesting, especially the very last sentance.

Mark Fearer
vin 3072

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 19:00:44 -0600
From: Mark Potter <>
Subject: [poncho] Re: I guess it's true....

    We had shorter life cycles for automobiles back in the 1950s and 1960s,
but they were lengthened in the 1970s due to the high cost of developing all
new models, not to mention increasing federal safety and emission control
regulations. Also, the downsizings that came in the late 1970s through the
mid-1980s were very expensive due to the wholesale switch to
front-wheel-drive and need for new engines. I agree that GM kept a lot of
old cars well beyond their useful life cycles. Examples included the 1968
Mako-Shark Corvette design that lasted all the way to 1982. Also the
second-generation Firebird/Camaro that debuted in mid-1970 and lasted all
the way to 1981 - but that design sold like hotcakes in its later years,
particularly from 1976 to 1979 - so GM felt justified in keeping that
F-body. Original plans called for the F-body to be replaced by the
Vega-based Chevy Monza/Pontiac Sunbird for 1976, but the Camaro/Firebird
sold so well in 1974-75 that the older design was continued as the last
survivors of the original ponycars while the newer cars were intended as
Mustang II-competitors, whose sales were well below expectations. The
continued success of the "older" Firebird/Camaro design led Ford to bring
back a "real" Mustang in 1979.
    In 1982, GM brought out its front-drive A-body intermediates (ie. Chevy
Celebrity, Pontiac 6000, Olds Cutlass Ciera and Buick Century), which would
last a whopping 15 model years or so - by which time only the Cutlass and
Century remained. However, they did not sell as well as their older
rear-drive G-body counterparts (which they were designed to ultimately
replace - but would carry on all the way to 1987) including the Pontiac
Grand Prix, LeMans (1978-81) and Bonneville (the mid-size Bonnie of 82-86).
The older cars sold better as gasoline became cheaper again and demand for
V8 engines (which the front-drive A-bodies didn't offer) rose. The G-body
Cutlass Supreme coupe was at that time the best selling car in America all
the way to the end. After that time, the GM-10 front-drive Cutlass Supreme
sold only a fraction that the older rear-drive version had - one of many
factors that eventually led to the announcement that Oldsmobile would be
dropped. With that, the Cutlass Ciera became Olds' biggest seller and was
hardly the car for the division to be chanting "This is not your father's
Oldsmobile." - or should it be grandfathers.
    As we're now lamenting over the demise of Oldsmobile, it should be
remembered that Pontiac nearly met a similar fate at GM back in the early
1980s after the recesssion and energy crisis drastically cut into sales of
Firebird Trans Ams, along with the replacement of 400 cid V8s with turbo
301s in 1980-81,  and the rest of the Poncho lineup wasn't setting the world
afire - a far cry from the 1960s when Pontiac held its grip to third place.
During that dismal early 1980s, Oldsmobile held its grip to third place and
even came close to toppling Ford for second place and even Buick was way
ahead of Pontiac. In 1983, for the first and only time ever, Mercury outsold
Pontiac. That same year, Pontiac pinned its future hopes by introducing a
slogan that would carry the division for the next few years - "We Build
Excitement." That theme was later enhanced to "Driving Excitement."
    Pontiac's comeback began in 1984 with the reinstatement of the
full-sized car thanks to the Canadian-built Parisienne (really a Chevy
Caprice with a Pontiac grille, two-tone paint and different taillight
lenses - for 1985-86, the Parisenne got 1981 Bonneville taillights and side
trim), more horsepower for the Firebird Trans Am, the new 6000 wagon and
increased production of the 6000 STE, and ... the introduction of the Fiero,
which, more than any other factor, brought more showroom traffic into
Pontiac dealerships than they had seen in years. Despite the Fiero's lack of
power on first-year models, the carps about the Chevette/Citation suspension
components and later, the well-publicized recalls, all of which led to its
ultimate demise after 1988 - this car would sell well initially and draw in
would-be buyers who ended up leaving the dealership in a new Firebird,
Sunbird, Grand Prix or even a Parisienne Safari. Later, the Grand Am would
further enhance the division's image and become Pontiac's hottest selling
car, which it remains to this day.
    The important note was not so much the sales success of Pontiacs, but
the marketing and imaging. The division did a tremendous job in the
mid-1980s and later in promoting its products. By 1987, Pontiac overtook
Olds for third place in domestic car sales and probably still holds that
position to this day (very competitive with Toyota and Honda) - just like in
the 1960s. Oldsmobile lacks any real marketing expertise and has become a
non-mobile image-wise. If Olds had the leadership that Pontiac had in the
mid-1980s, it probably wouldn't be on its deathbed. What Olds really needed
was a marketer, or car-guy, such as Lee Iacocca or John Z. DeLorean.

  To unsubscribe from the poncho list, send mail to
   with the text 'unsubscribe poncho' (no quotes) in the message body.


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 20:40:07 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: door guides


The factory issued the first service bulletin concerning problems with door
latch to door guides alignment as of vin# 1100. Between car 1100 and 3000
door guides were fitted to all new cars out of the factory. The factory also
provided three different variations of door guides for all cars already
sold, in storage, or at dealerships.

If you have an 82 with no door guides this is not the norm. I have never
seen a DeLorean above vin# 3000 without door guides. The only scenario I
could imagine is that at some time in the past your original doors were

"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<>

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 3:53 AM
Subject: [DML] door guides

> In a message dated 12/11/00 5:48:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> writes:
> << The problem was that some early DeLoreans never got the door guide
>  With no door guides, or improperly installed door guides, a DeLorean door
>  can jam closed.   >>
> I've never been stuck in my '82, but it doesn't have the big bulging door
> guides either. Don't '82s have them?  I just have a flat expanse of sheet
> metal with the notch for the lock post.
> -Wayne
> 11174


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 17:42:54 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Re: vents only- no heater, defroster


If your AC mode switch is factory original your wasting your time looking
elsewhere. You don't have to pull the dash to replace the AC mode switch.

"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<>

----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Creason <>
To: <>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: vents only- no heater, defroster


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 20:48:12 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Fans, doors, and lights (oh, my!)


Time is short so I will answer just one of your questions.

Concerning your "lock doors dash light is flipping on and off". This is a
typical problem concerning your factory installed door lock module. You need
to immediately disconnect this unit to prevent burning out your door lock
solenoids, draining the battery, and possibly creating a "locked inside your
car syndrome": SEE Unlock Your Door Mysteries

"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<>


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 21:16:06 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Door lock module (was Steering Wheel recovering)

Jim is 100% correct concerning this subject.


"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<>
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jim Reeve <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 8:55 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Door lock module (was Steering Wheel recovering)

> Walt, I believe you are either wrong about your knoledge of the stock 
> lock module, or you misstated what you intended to write.  The factory 
> lock module does NOT continously supply the solenoids with power.  
> There is no design flaw on part, when working propory they also send 
> a "tick" of power to the solenoids.  If the stock module never fails, 
> neither should the solenoids.  Only when the internal relays in the 
> stock module stick, do the solenoids recieve continuous power and burn 
> them up
> Jim Reeve
> -6960


Message: 18
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 21:51:27 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: New Subject


Standard automotive sound proofing procedures also apply to the DeLorean.
weakest acoustical section of the DeLorean are the driver and passenger
floor board area. Any application of sound conditioning materiel in this
will improve sound transmission through these thin fiberglass sections. I
highly recommend Dynamat from Crutchfield, a product that is easy to install
and provides as much as 3 dB or more noise reduction. This product also
works well in the door roof sections above the headliners.

"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<>


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 03:08:05 -0000
From: "Scot Stern" <>
Subject: Material on Rear Package Shelf

I tried this question about six months ago and got no answer so 
perhaps now someone is in a better position to answer.  Here goes:

My car has 9,500 miles on it and is totaly original.  The rear 
package shelf has a material on it, under the carpeting that "cracks" 
every time I touch it!  I would like to replace it but I do not know 
what it is.  Does anyone have any advise or is the part available 
from any of the Delorean houses?




Message: 20
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 05:59:50 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: Re: sparkplugs

Kevin and Group, Funny you should bring up the intresting 
conversation about spark plugs for the De Lorean. I just got my Bosch 
shipment into day with all 5 different heat ranges for plugs. HR6DC 
for the purest, HR7DC little hotter, HR8DCX,HR9DC,and HR10DCX the 
hottest, all of these are $2.50ea and will be on the web site soon. 
I'm glad to see someone experminting with Plat +4 as Robert did. I 
talked to Bosch tech department about the plat + 4 and the De Lorean 
he said that Bosch makes no claims to anything about performance, but 
he said it's like beauty, it's in the eyes of the beholder. As a 
jobber for Bosch I will have a price on them tomorrow and it will be 
about 1/2 of what stores are.The info will be on the web site in 
about a week. New catalog info and specifications to are comming and 
I will put that on the site also. I also agree with David about quick 
bolt on performance cheap solutions, but,but,but 4 tip spark plugs 
have been around for years and a lot of people including me believe 
in them. If they didn't have some value to them, then why would Bosch 
build them. Even though there is 1000's of volts going to the tip of 
the plug, electricity follows the least line of resistance. Couple 
that with a new coil and Robert may even see a better performance or 
more stable performance. I to would like to see better performance 
from the car w/o spending $1000.00's. Gene Snow a race car driver 
told me years ago that for the money, an exhaust system got more HP 
for the dollars. Grant you, this was in the 70's.
Showing my age.
John Hervey    

   --- In, "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> One last question for the evening:
> What kind of sparkplugs are preferred?
> Brand, type (forked tip, platinum....)
> And is it worth getting the micro-washers/shims to get the spark 
lined the "right" direction for the extra burn? 
> And what is the "right" direction?
> Thanks... I'm going to bed now and look forward to answers and 
flames in the mornining. :)
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 06:15:32 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: Re: sparkplugs

Walter and Group, Bosch told me today that the Plat + 4 is a medium 
heat range plug = to the a HR8 or HR9. The HR6 as the car comes with 
is the coldest burning plug for this series and for short drives a 
hotter plug would burn better. That's why I ordered in 3 sets of ea 
range to run my test with them, but as robert has pointed out with 
his experiment it sounds like Plat + 4 is the way to go. As to 
copper, silver, or platinum, i think is just resistance factor for 
more critical applications that we don't have. What do yall think.

 --- In, "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> So which plug is better for the Delorean?  Bosch Coppertip, Bosch 
> or Bosch w/silver electrode?


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 06:23:53 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: Re: Continuous Idle

David, You might try taking it off and putting it on the work bench. 
One of the pins is ground and the others reverse and forward with 12+ 
the motor like robert said. You can look in the pipe and see the shut 
off working or not.

 --- In, Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello List,
>     I have a question about the idle-speed system on the DeLorean.  
when I 
> turn my key to the run position I can hear the idle speed motor 
> When I start car it idles great and when I remove the connector to 
the idle 
> speed motor nothing happens at all and it continues to idle fine.  
I thought 
> the car would die when the idle speed motor stopped. 


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 07:04:37 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: Re:Delorean fires...

Walter, Here,Here on your explination of electrical fires in dash or 
out of dash. Problem is also underated parts used to carry the loads 
for long periods of time. Such as: Several of us were talking a week 
ago about fuses and melting. I added a relay for the fuel pump load 
alone and the took the load off the RPM relay points. The RPM relay 
still activates the seperate fuel pump relay for safety but no more 
heat on #7 fuse to melt. I will put this modification on the web site 
as soon as clean it up a little and make it fool proof. Now no more 
heat to melt #7. --

 In, "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Wayne,
> In the situation of a poor electrical connection, a fuse failing to 
blow has
> little to do with a fire starting. 


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 12:51:47 -0000
From: "Joe Sorrentino" <>
Subject: Re: Re: door locks

Mike wrote:

As I recall, Johnny Carson also had trouble with his alternator.  How do we 
know about this?  He didn't complain about it on his show, did he?

Does anyone know a good source for details on Johnny's DeLorean adventures?

I clearly remember a short article in - I believe - People magazine at that 
time discussing Johnny's D failure. It included pictures of an unhappy 
Johnny on the side of the road, and mentioned the bad alternator.

For what it's worth...
Joe Sorrentino
Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download :


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 11:43:10 EST
Subject: Delorean parts for sale


  I have a set of three DMC manuals for sale. The Delorean parts manual, the 
bulletins: service and technical parts,warranty, organization. & the Delorean 
workshop manual. These were bought from P.J. Grady (not by me) about 18 
months ago and are in very good condition.  Make an offer. 

Also a like new part number 100594 rear louvre, with all the parts 105516 
panel grill, latch 106080, latch cover 106359, pop rivet sp10276, tension pin 
sp10813, spring 106079. The only flaw on this sunshade is a small 3-4 " 
scratch than can easily be easily painted over.

These parts are located near Rockford,IL. The Louvre would have to be picked 
up as shipment would be very expensive. Make an offer.