Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 2:29 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 36

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There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. The Resurrection of Vixen Contiues...
From: "Dave Stragand" <>

2. facia repainting update

3. Re: (unknown)
From: "DMC Joe" <>

4. Re: Facia question..
From: "DMC Joe" <>

5. Re: door locks, mirrors and windows
From: "DMC Joe" <>

6. Re: Re: Interior lights acting funny
From: "DMC Joe" <>

7. Re: I only have ONE key for whole DeLorean, should car have two different keys?
From: "DMC Joe" <>

8. De Lorean Nose Bra Countdown...

9. RE: LHD to RHD conversion
From: Gregory M Scalia <>

10. Re: Front Facia pics for refinishing
From: "Arnie Schurink" <>

11. DeLorean mention..
From: Marc A Levy <>

12. Re: Historic Blunders
From: "Nate Kile" <>

13. Re: Inertia switch / fuse relationship?
From: Mike Substelny <>

14. Switch fix
From: "Vin#5462" <>

15. DeLorean Values on the rise... (long)
From: James Espey <>

16. Mixture control unit for sale
From: "Duke" <>

17. Re: facia repainting update
From: "doctor280" <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 02 May 2000 22:55:41 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Contiues...


Things are at a good point.  The Vixen starts and runs...  The wiring,
gauges and relays all seem fine.  The fans work okay.  The clutch...
uhhh... clutches.  Overall, I'm ahead of where I thought I'd be at this

Well, that's not exactly true.  To be honest, I have purposely -not-
thought about where I should be at any point, nor when she will be
done.  If I begin to set timelines, I begin to get impatient.  I am
allowing an indefinite amount of time on purpose.  In fact, I even have
a sign on the front of the car; big block letters reading "THANK YOU FOR
NOT ASKING WHEN IT WILL BE DONE".  That hasn't stopped anyone so far,
though, and every time someone asks I get a little twinge of impatience
and frustration up my spine.  It's not their fault, though, it's mine.
I am pretty impatient by nature, so I do what I have to do to get
through all this.

Should I be done now?  I don't think so.  I have about 750 work-hours
into the car so far... which is a lot, to be sure.  How long did it take
them to assemble these originally?  Less than a day, I'm sure.  I'm
taking a bit longer.  I set little goals; small steps.  The radiator is
in.  Cool!  The vacuum hoses are connected.  Great!  The antenna goes up
and down.  Fantastic!  Small steps... small steps.

But then every once in a while you look behind you and realized you've
come a long way from where you started.  You also realize you are closer
to your destination than you had thought.  That can be a bit scary.
Maybe it's realizing that all you've known to this point is the
journey,  and you know nothing about the destination.  Maybe it's
something else.  I've felt it before.

The night before I bought my '58 Plymouth, I could hardly sleep.  All I
could think of was, "I'm actually going to own a '58 Plymouth!".  It was
a long night.  The next day, after bringing the car home, I went to bed
thinking, "My Lord, I actually bought a '58 Plymouth.  What the he** was
I thinking???"  It was another long night.

Some things just take a little while to get used to, I suppose.  I
imagine a part of my nervousness is the fact that every time I get used
to the state of the car, I realize it has changed.  This car actually
-runs-, for goodness sake.  Just when did -that- happen?  Now, I'm not
too far away from actually having the Vixen move under her own power.
The thought alone is a bit overwhelming.  Overwhelming, but good.  It's
a sense of pride and accomplishment.  I'm doing what can't be done, and
saving a car that can't be saved.  It's exciting, and I like to share
that excitement with all of you, who also love the marque.

To me, one of the most exciting things I will do this summer is to go to
the Cleveland 2000 show.  I had planned from the beginning to attend,
with the car if possible.  And it looks as if it will be possible to
bring the car, albeit on a trailer.  I believe that the car in her
present state may be an unusal and interesting look at the DeLorean from
a purely functional perspective.  However, not everyone feels that way.
I've encountered a few owners whom I might venture to call 'purists'.
Some seem to be actually offended by a less-than-perfect D.  Maybe they
feel an uncompleted car may lessen the value of their investments?
(Personally, I would think that it would actually -raise- the value of
their car in comparison.)  Or maybe they have the feeling that (as I
received in one email) my car "dilutes the status of the marque" in her
present state.  That's a tad insulting if you ask me, as I would think
that it would -increase- the marque's status, if someone would go
through so much effort to restore one!

But I'll leave it up to the list to decide.  I have created an eGroups
poll with that question.  If you have feelings either way, I invite you
to please vote and let me know how you feel!

With that said, I'll head out to the garage and work on my rear brakes.
I never thought it would take 7 months to rebuild my rear calipers,
but... more on that later.  =)

-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 23:30:00 EDT
Subject: facia repainting update

I had a lot of people request the pictures so I will be placing them into the 
vault as soon as I can.

Just as a note I have placed in both concourses I have entered and I painted 
the facias on that car.  So those of you who know my car know the kind of 
results that I expect.  The facias were also spot touched up for the St Louis 
show due to my sons running into my car with their bikes (KIDS)

As a follow up I have some bad news.  I aparently had some bad paint since 
the paint never totally cured and remained slightly tacky.  Rather that 
settle for a questionable paint and risk pealing or something else I 
restripped the facias again today.  Since the paint was fresh and not totally 
cured it came off of all 4 facias in about two hours.  I used laquer thinner 
that did not touch the original finish but if you go down to the grey primer 
it will remove it.  You can also use bumper stripper from SEM part number 
39913.  It will remove finishes other than factory so if you have a repainted 
bumper this stuff works but be prepared to do some extensive masking.  Do Not 
Let It Touch the Black, it will dull it forever.  Again this is best left to 
a professional.  

I will reshoot them with the base coat clear coat system so I will be able to 
do a comparison. The finish and color of the DAU matched the original 
perfectly including the gloss level so now I will compare the new paint.  I 
have done my Mustang and Ford Truck with this paint and it has turned out to 
be a perfect factory match, very glossy as you all know.

I will not be taking any more pictures since you will not be able see 
anything different than what was there in the first set. 

I will use a gloss reducer to cut the gloss on one car and try a 1,000 grit 
wet sand and buff on the other car to dull the finish to match the factory 
finish.  The gloss level reads about an 65 on our system at work,  My Truck 
reads 89.

Remember practice makes perfect. 
I have painted over 300 cars and this is the first time I have experienced 
this problem.  the paint store confirmed the defect in the paint today.   

One note I used a flexible primer that claimed it did not need to be thinned. 
 With a HVLP gun you do need to thin it.  If not you will have to wet sand 
with 400 grit to remove the orange peel that HVLP is noted for .  I did not 
have problems with high pressure systems before when I used this primer.  It 
took less than a pint per car with HVLP vs slightly less than a pint per 
facia with high pressure. (4 light coats)

If you have any doubts about doing these facias then send it to one of the 
shops. The prices I have seen posted on this list are reasonable considering 
the time and effort that is put into the job. It is not for beginners because 
the silver is a difficult color to shoot since it settles quickly.  I charge 
about $200 per facia when I do it, paint included, but don't ask LOL I'm busy 
with a Car Show at this time.

Next report base coat clear coat system



Message: 3
Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 23:14:06 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: (unknown)

If the fuel accumulator has been replaced there are two other probable
causes of the starting problem you describe.
You either have a problem in the cold start circuit or a defective
distributor impulse coil.

"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: Gregory M Scalia <>
To: <>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 7:53 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] (unknown)

> I have this exact same problem.  I have been of the guess that this is a
vapor lock problem   Very inconvenient and have been stranded several times.
One time, road-side assistance cam and took off the air filter/intake and
allowed free air intake and the car started easily.  This sounds like
> Interested to here if there is a fix
> ----------
> From:[]
> Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 10:59 PM
> To:
> Subject: [DML] (unknown)
> hello all!
> this is my first post for help.
> i am having problems getting the d to start after driving for a hour +
> when i stop for an hour or more it will turn over but will not start.
> i have tried jumping the rpm relay to send power to the fuel pump but
> that
> did not help
> when i leave the d for more than 8 hours, it will start  ? (really
> rough
> like it needs a tune up--just replaced the accumulator and had a tune
> up 3
> mo ago) i have checked the nuts on top of the fuel pump and they
> appear
> ok---any suggestions    thanks


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 23:31:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Facia question..

The dark matte gray finish effects vin's up to 1883 the switch to light gray
gloss began at 1884. The wheel colors also changed at this time. Many owners
have had their  fascia's refinished in black.

"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 12:17 PM
Subject: [DML] Facia question..

> Simple question I can't find answered anywhere else (and I looked!):
>  Why are some facia's much darker than others?  Most I've seen are
> only slighlty darker than the stainless steal color, and others are
> much darker, and yet others are almost black.  Are the latter two
> types bad or custom re-paint jobs?
> Thanks,
> -Hank


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 00:13:11 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: door locks, mirrors and windows

Before going any further you should do a continuity check of all the wires
between the door solenoids and lock module. Refer to M:18:14 in the workshop

To operate the power windows without the console switches, jump the black
and light green/white wires at the switch plugs.

To check the power mirrors refer to M:18:18 in the workshop manual and
confirm that you have 12 volts and ground at the mirror direction control.

"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 5:03 PM
Subject: [DML] door locks, mirrors and windows

> Hello List,
>     Ever since I purchased my 81 DeLorean the power mirrors, door locks
> power windows have not worked.  I can not figure out what is wrong.  I
> even hear a little movement from any of these items.
> Thanks in advance
> dave
> #2496


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 00:21:22 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Interior lights acting funny

The interior lamp delay circuit has a timer that takes several minutes to
reset, therefore if you open and close the door within a short period of
time the dimmer function will not operate. The reason that your interior
light turns on while you are driving is due to the fact that one of the door
plunger switches is out of alignment.

"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 1:56 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Interior lights acting funny

> We also have had some strange light behavior.  Besides the fact that
> sometimes the light dims out when you close the door and sometimes it just
> shuts off, we also have something weirder.  Sometimes when the doors are
> AND locked, the cockpit light will come on by itself while we're driving.
> The way I turn if off is by turning on and off the light over the storage
> compartment which makes them both go off.  Strange but true (but D's are
> always full of little interesting things anyway...)  :)
>         ~Rick E.
>         VIN 11174
> P.S.  I suppose I should note that we haven't changed anything in our
> electrical system yet, so I guess it's not surprising that it'd doing
> things (?).


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 01:00:05 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: I only have ONE key for whole DeLorean, should car have two different keys?

Early DeLorean's had two keys later cars had only one key for all locks. You
problem may be due to a previous owner changing one of the factory installed
lock cylinder.

"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Coplen <>
To: DML <>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 10:50 PM
Subject: [DML] I only have ONE key for whole DeLorean, should car have two
different keys?

> My DeLorean only came with one key.  It opens the drivers door and starts
the ignition perfectly.  It does not, however, fit the passenger door at
all.  Now that I think about it I don't believe it works in the hidden
compartment lock as the whole lock spins around anyway.
> Where is the mistake?  Does a DeLorean usually take two keys?
> Chris
> 3876


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 02:17:22 EDT
Subject: De Lorean Nose Bra Countdown...

As some of you know, I have managed to work out a deal with the original 
manufacturer of the De Lorean nose bras for a VERY limited re-issue.  How 
limited?  At this point, I have just two still available!   I'll take orders 
until midnight this Saturday, May 6th.  I want to get this order right out 
because turnaround time will probably be a month- the manufacturer is really 
busy, and our prime driving and show season is here!  

As for the future, we'll have to see.  If there is demand for a second 
batch... if I have time to devote to this... if the manufacturer is even 
willing to make them.  This is a long ago discontinued item, and it took some 
verbal arm twisting on my part to make this happen. This makes a second batch 
pretty iffy.  

The price will definitely be higher.  I am doing this on a "wouldn't it be 
nice if" basis, but it has been pretty time intensive, and I'm selling the 
things at just a few bucks above what they're charging me, to recover some of 
the extra outlay.  BTW, I stated previously that I bought a rare used 
original recently for $125.  Came across the bill today, and it was $149.95 
plus shipping.  And it's not as rare, flexible, clean (or new) as these are 
for the same darn price!  And they're identical, not cheap knock offs. Maybe 
I'll get one or two extra and put them on e-bay at $165. minimum and see what 
they're really worth!  ;)

These are the full-size type,  the bra is held on in twelve places, so it 
does not move anywhere.  Smooth on top, no "bug flaps." It does not, however, 
interfere with radiator airflow.

Why would you want a nose bra?  They protect the front of the car from bugs 
and minor stone or debris damage.  And they look pretty cool, too!  :)  
Another reason:  if you have a faded, slightly damaged, or "eye-browed" 
fascia, the full-size nose bra can easily cover that up except for the 
headlight wells.  The front is embossed "De Lorean" in the DMC font and size 
of the writing on your back bumper.  It comes with a storage bag.  I have a 
picture of the original on my D if you'd like to see it. Go to <A 
HREF="">.JPG</A>  The cost is 
$149.95 plus shipping.  I can take credit cards through my business... Visa, 
Mastercard, American Express.  Please e-mail me or phone immediately at 
1-800-833-3920 or  Ask for Wayne.  You're calling my 

"Living the dream!"


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 18:37:22 +1000
From: Gregory M Scalia <>
Subject: RE: LHD to RHD conversion

I have a converted to RHD DMC.  The job was done in Melbourne in 1990.  The steering box is one canabalised from a 6 cyl Cortina, I am told.  The dash was reversed and replaced.  The handbrake moved etc.  Over all very nice job.


From: 	Vin#5462[]
Sent: 	Wednesday, April 26, 2000 4:16 AM
To: 	Delorean Mailing List
Subject: 	[DML] LHD to RHD conversion

Hi All

I live in England and am seriously considering converting my Left hand drive
automatic DeLorean to a right hand drive. The dash board has split in half
and so I intend to make a new one but reversed for RHD and then move the
pedals, hand brake, steering and instruments over to the right. I am a
fairly confident mechanic and having looked closely at the current layout it
does not look too hard. Can the steering rack be run upside down, (I see no
reason why not since it is a simple rack and pinion set-up)

Are there any particular difficulties with this operation or anything
specific which may require major structural work??

Has anyone performed this operation themselves, and if so what problems did
you incur?

any help would be most appreciated, should I go ahead with the conversion I
intend to create an accurate manual of how it was done in order to allow
other DeLorean owners to follow suit.

With thanks

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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 12:54:02 CEST
From: "Arnie Schurink" <>
Subject: Re: Front Facia pics for refinishing

>Subject: Re: [DML] Front Facia pics for refinishing
>Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 02:30:18 EDT
>The pictures I attached were removed by e-groups
>anyone wanting to see them can e-mailme privately and I will be glad to 
>them to you
Hi Ken,
my dad and I are planning to do some work on both our D's facias. Especially 
the front needs some work. Any information on how to do this we would gladly 
receive. So if you could send us these pictures, we would be very grateful.
Thanx in advance and many greetings from The Netherlands from
Arnold Schurink,
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 11:48:30 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <>
Subject: DeLorean mention..

Someone spoke of a DeLorean at the NYC Auto Show.  It is also mentioned
on the web site.


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 10:22:18 -0600
From: "Nate Kile" <>
Subject: Re: Historic Blunders

The History Ch special glossed over the IRA problems JZD had. 

I have a good friend that retired as a Colonel after serving 30+ years in 
 "King's Own Scottish Boarderers"... some of the stories had had, as soon 
as I mentioned DMC went way beyond the simple bombing of the
 downtown office building. The IRA didn't want any kind of stable
 employment in Ulster, and ANYTHING it could do to harass, or 
damage the business was their goal.


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 12:48:05 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <>
Subject: Re: Inertia switch / fuse relationship?

Previously, I said:

> Last week I wanted to crank my engine without starting it, so I removed
> the [inertia switch] bypass.  This worked nicely, and I congratulated
> myself on cleverness.  Unfortunately, the first time I put the bypass
> back I did it incorrectly.  I am concerned that I may have caused a
> short that blew a fuse (or damaged another component).  My fuel
> pump is no longer getting power (it does work when jumpered).

Thank you all for your tips.  As it turns out, I may have done nothing wrong
after all.

The new inertia switch came yesterday.  In installed it and my fuel pump
immediately began to function normally and my DeLorean started right up.  I
assume that the bypass was damaged.  I had not caused a short.  I patted myself
on the back and put everything back together.

When the previous owner removed the intertia switch he also removed sawed off
the posts I would use to mount it.  Not wanting my inertia switch to bounce
around, I put a dab of hot glue on its case and secured it to the panel by my
trunk release lever.

Then I tried to start my DeLorean again.  Relays click normally, but no fuel
pump action.

I am now faced with two possibilities:

1) Could the temperature of the hot glue possibly have damaged the mechanism of
my new inertia switch?  It seems impossible, unless the mechanism is made of
wax.  When I jiggle it the switch seems to behave normally.

2)  Perhaps the inertia switch had nothing to do with my problem.  I may have
developed that bane of all DeLorean owners: an intermittent electrical gremlin
in a critical system.  This could cause me to have a very sad summer.

Any tips on what it might take to get power restored to my fuel pump would be
highly appreciated.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 22:33:19 +0100
From: "Vin#5462" <>
Subject: Switch fix

My apologies to anyone who tried to enter my site to look at the
indicator/dip beam steering column switch fix, which I had mentioned in my
earlier e-mail the address was typed incorrectly.

the correct address is


James RG


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:00:49 -0500
From: James Espey <>
Subject: DeLorean Values on the rise... (long)

The talk a few weeks back about the values of DeLoreans "plummeting" 
(DOA board member David Knudsen's words) appears to be unfounded...

The National Automobile Dealers Association publishes several price 
guides, one of which is the "Classic, Collectible and Special 
Interest Car Appraisal Guide". This is the book that has DeLorean 
values in it.

The May-September 2000 edition arrived today, and the values are as follows:

1981-1983 DeLorean
Low - $9050
Avg - $14250
High - $23175

Compare this with the May-September 1999 edition:

1981-1983 DeLorean
Low - $9050
Avg - $13550
High - $17400

We contend, based on our experiences in the market that one year ago 
the high values were about $10,000 low, and today, in spite of the 
rise, they are about $8,000 to $10,000 low. Poor condition DeLoreans 
have stayed steady in the sub-$10K price range, and average condition 
cars have risen slightly. But the biggest shift has been in the 
"high" range - a nearly $6K increase in the last 12 months!

But what is a "low" DeLorean? An "average" DeLorean? A "high" DeLorean?

The NADA book generalizes the definitions as:

Low: This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition. The 
exterior paint and trim would be in fair condition. The interior 
would show normal wear possibly needing minor reconditioning. Note: 
This does NOT represent "parts cars".

Average: This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be 
an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. The 
exterior paint, trim and mechanics are in satisfactory condition. The 
interior would show minimal wear.

High: This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could 
be a completely restored or an extremely well-maintained original 
vehicle. The exterior paint, trim and mechanics are not in need of 
work. Note: This does not represent a "100 point" or "#1" vehicle.

A more "DeLorean-specific" definition of these conditions is:

Low: The vehicle runs and drives normally, but with no recent service 
history. There is no fuel tank contamination or "hot start" problems. 
The brakes may pull or vibrate. The exterior stainless may have dents 
or dings, and the paint on the fascias may be worn, chipped or 
cracked. The fascias may be warped as well. The louvres may be 
cracked, and the exterior lights and lens are all in good condition. 
The interior shows normal wear, possibly with stains in the carpets 
and the dash and binnacle may be discolored or cracked. Headliners 
may be saggy or recovered with the incorrect material. The seats may 
show wear or be recovered in an incorrect material, and possibly torn 
or split at the seams. All operational systems (wipers, lights, air 
conditioning, windows, door locks, speedometer) are functioning.

Average: A daily driver type car with an "as necessary" service 
history, fascias are not warped, louvres are not broken. The exterior 
stainless steel has no dents or dings, but may have some light 
"cross-scratches" that require more than can be accomplished with by 
hand with a buffing pad. Runs and drives well, with a good interior 
that is free of tears, rips and shows no unusual signs of wear on the 
carpets, seats or headliners. The "average" condition DeLorean is the 
most treacherous area, as many of the cars advertised in that price 
range and NOT "average", but closer to "low", This is particularly 
true of the supposed "low mileage" DeLoreans that have been stored 
for years and are fraught with storage related maladies. "Caveat 
Emptor" applies here more than with either "high" or "low" condition 

High: A "high" condition DeLorean is one that has a recent, complete 
service history. Stainless, glass, fascias, louvres and exterior 
moldings and trim are flawless. The interior shows no signs of wear 
and is in excellent condition with the correct materials for seat, 
door panel, console and headliners. Operational systems are fully 
functional, with the necessary upgrades (metal header bottle, relay 
kit, braided steel clutch line, recalls, etc) performed. Potentially 
a "concours" competitor if in original condition.

This and more information about the values and conditions of 
DeLoreans will be posted on our website shortly. As always, if you 
are considering the purchase of a DeLorean, or just want to properly 
evaluate your own, download our "Vehicle Inspection Report". It's the 
same form we use in the shop to prepare estimates, and I think both 
current and prospective owners will find it useful.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas



Message: 16
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 21:24:06 -0500
From: "Duke" <>
Subject: Mixture control unit for sale

If anyone is looking for a good mixture control unit, here is one for sale.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 23:36:44 -0400
From: "doctor280" <>
Subject: Re: facia repainting update

As it has it, my Delorean is having the facias repainted along with all the
black trim work and bumpers. (I am one of those people that would fail a
finger painting class, so I would never attempt to do something like this on
my own.)

I am having some custom paintwork done on the facias that may interest some
and just may upset the purest out there.

As several people know I have made some changes to my car that are not
exactly original and most of this changes have occurred to interior of the
car. Such changes are, leather MOMO gear shift knob (previous owner, but I
love it), black headliner (with the gray interior I think it looks great and
a CD player (matches the black trim and even lights up green to match the
climate control lights and console clock. Out of this changes what I like is
the fact that, I think the changes improved the looks of the car and the
fact that to someone who is not familiar with the Delorean would never know
that the car did not come this way.

Now that the mechanicals are all working and the interior is done the
outside improvement are commencing.

Now looking on the outside of the car, I knew the facias along with the
black trim and bumpers needed repainting, but also I really had a distaste
for the lower grill on the car. (The wire mesh grill protecting the
radiator.) So I went around town and found a person willing and able to make
a stainless steel grill that uses an X pattering. I am leaving this
unpainted as I really think that it adds a sporty look to the front of the
car that it just seemed to be missing.

Now to the facias, what can be done to help this area out? Well one of the
best custom painters here on the east coast, has an idea and I should see
how it looks soon, because it is being done to my car. After looking at the
car he came back and said that he really hated the way that the facias did
not match the stainless panels and that he had an idea to change this.

What he is doing, is mixing some paint, so that he can get it to match the
stainless as close as possible (paint is still paint, so I don't believe
that it will ever match or duplicate the properties of stainless steel, but
he may prove me wrong.) After the paint is applied to the facias, he is
going to lightly sand it. I know this is a no no when working with metallic
paint, because it will leave scratches in the paint. But this is what we
want......see what is being done here is duplicating the grain of the
stainless panels into the paint. After this is done the facias will be clear
coated. The total effect should be that the front and rear facias look as if
they were made of stainless.

I will let everyone know how it comes out.

Robert Starling