From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 11:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 49

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Stainless Steel Illusions for Sale Online
From: Daniel McGauley <hawkeye_at_dml_creativeworlds.com>

2. Electrical connections on Mode Switch
From: damonjt_at_dml_aol.com

3. Engine compartment cover paint
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

4. ADMIN: Hotmail vs eGroups
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

5. door hinge raising
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Engine compartment cover paint
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

7. Angle Drive
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Stainless Steel Illusions for Sale Online
From: "Richard Petrie" <juffo7_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Electrical connections on Mode Switch
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Engine compartment cover paint
From: lovdmc12_at_dml_aol.com

11. my delorean will not start..
From: Cliff Andrews <fen2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. epoxy rear fascia bolts?
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

13. 81 for sale
From: "Phil F" <delorean_at_dml_usfamily.net>

14. Re: my delorean will not start..
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>

15. Loud squealing brakes
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>

16. More pics in Vault
From: "Tom Watkins watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net" <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

17. Who Wants To Be A Delorean Millionaire?
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

18. Radio Bracket
From: "Dale Schaub" <daleschaub_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

19. Re: my delorean will not start..
From: Jim <starbuck_at_dml_gate.net>

20. Re: epoxy rear fascia bolts?
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>

21. Re: Loud squealing brakes
From: paraversal_at_dml_aol.com

22. RE: Angle Drive
From: "Travis Graham" <thgraham_at_dml_home.com>

23. Re: Angle Drive
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: my delorean will not start..
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: Loud squealing brakes
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 23:11:18 -0500
From: Daniel McGauley <hawkeye_at_dml_creativeworlds.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Illusions for Sale Online

Alibris currently has a copy of Stainless Steel Illusion for $120.  There's 
also a $10 coupon available using code "FESTIVAL".  Hopefully it's not expired.

http://www.alibris.com/cgi-bin/texis/searcher/++redSfr6wwwwwBmehudt6wwwwDwwwwwww/details.html?Bid=3918eb85d 
	



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 05:58:49 EDT
From: damonjt_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Electrical connections on Mode Switch

Dear list,

Yesterday I removed the ventilation mode switch because it was hissing. I 
applied vasiline as mentioned in eZine #3. I was a little hasty in removing 
the switch, however, and now need help in reconnecting the electrical wires. 
I don't know which wire goes on which terminal. The color of the 3 wires are 
solid green, solid red, and white/green.  Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff Damon


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 10:46:31 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Engine compartment cover paint

Hello List,
    I am finishing up the exterior of my 81 DMC and doing a few last things 
before it gets painted.  The bottom of my engine compartment cover is very 
faded and the screen retainer brackets are rusty.  What color do I paint the 
cover and screen brackets? Is it flat black?  how should I prepare it before 
I paint it?

    what color are the screens supposed to be?  Myne are painted black but I 
am considering painting them a stainless steel color.  I remember seeing a 
paint color called "stainless steel"  does anyone know who makes it?

Thanks 

Dave,
#2496-can't come to dmc2000:(


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 10:32:06 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Hotmail vs eGroups

Hotmail Problems?

I picked up the note below from from a list that I monitor made up of
mailing list admins on eGroups. I've received a couple of emails from
Hotmail subs that the DMCNews mail has stopped, here's why.

If this happens in the future , remember that you can always read and post
to the list on the web in real time at
http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews. This is also where you can manage your
own subscription, i.e. turn it of for vacation, switch to the digest, etc.

I would also recommend that you switch to another "free" email provider. I
only see this sort of thing on Hotmail. I have accounts on Yahoo and Excite
that I use to "test" the list, and these NEVER have problems. We've also had
a problem in the past where Hotmail starts "Bouncing", I can really tell
when this happens because we have quite a few hotmail subcribers.

Dave Swingle

=============================

Subject: .hotmail blocks eGroup mail

I received the following note from one of my members:

"I contacted EGroups and just received a reply.  Hotmail has put a block on
all email from EGroups.  EGroups said they were working with Hotmail to lift
the block."






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 11:50:44 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: door hinge raising

Hello,
    My Jul 81 DeLorean had a large dent in the door so I bought a perfect 
used one for it that came off off an 82 or 83 De Lorean.  I dont have the 
T-panel on my car right now because the door is too close to the fiberglass 
roof.  The top of the new door hits the fiberglass roof panel very hard and 
makes a nasty noise when the door goes up.  There is no way I can put the 
T-panel back on because the door would smash it when it went up.
    I moved the four bolts connecting the doors to the hinges down and that 
is still not even close to high enough.  The stainless actually bows in when 
its up so I leave it closed now.  The manual says I am going to have to add 
shims under the hinge mount.  Looks like the torsion bar has to come out just 
after I got it in:(  does anyone know what DeLorean supplier has these shims? 
 

Thanks
Dave
#2496
by the way. I got $0.14 per pound from the junk yard for the smashed SS door.


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 14:28:22 EDT
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine compartment cover paint

I recently repainted my screen cover brackets and an engine hinge.  I used 
semi gloss black black at first, but it was still too shiny, and contrasted 
with the areas I didn't paint.  I used Rustoleum Flat Black the second time.  
I found that color matched the other areas which were like new perfectly.  
Flat Black will still give you a small amount of shine when you buff it once 
its dry.  In any event this worked perfect for me and looks identical to the 
rest of the factory paint.

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360

<< Hello List,
     I am finishing up the exterior of my 81 DMC and doing a few last things 
 before it gets painted---
 Dave,
 #2496-can't come to dmc2000:( >>


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 14:33:17 EDT
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Angle Drive

My speedometer starting acting erratic for the first time yesterday.  However 
after driving a short while it stopped and returned to normal.  I was 
wondering what type of oil or lubricant would be best for me to use on my 
angle drive.  I am not comfortable with the 20 year old factory recommended 
type with all the innovations that have been made over the years.  There are 
certainly better choices available.  I had heard of new red colored type 
being used recently.  The angle drive has never been touched before and the 
car has only 9000 miles on it.  I am hoping it only acted funny because the 
car wasn't used much yet this spring and that lubricating it will cure the 
problem from returning.

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 13:42:29 CDT
From: "Richard Petrie" <juffo7_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Illusions for Sale Online

I found the same book on abebooks.com    They have two and one of them is 
only $100!  If it'll save anyone money go for it :) Just click on the search 
tab and enter " De Lorean Stainless Steel Illusion"

www.abebooks.com

Richard Petrie
vin# tba
>

>Alibris currently has a copy of Stainless Steel Illusion for $120.  There's
>also a $10 coupon available using code "FESTIVAL".  Hopefully it's not 
>expired.
>


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 14:50:18 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Electrical connections on Mode Switch

Hey Jeff,

    When I disconnected my mode switch wires on my car for my restoration, I drew up a little diagram in my marble notebook so I think I might be able to help you. Now what I wrote down was, when looking at the back of the switch the connection that is all the way on the left is where the solid green wire goes, then in the middle connection I have the red  and the white/orange wire (you never mentioned that white/orange wire but I have one on my car)  and the connection all the way on the right is where the green/white wires go.  Hope that helps some.

Later,
Nick
VIN#1852


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 16:19:47 EDT
From: lovdmc12_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine compartment cover paint

I'm going to have to paint my louver and engine compartment cover too.  I was 
told to use Krylon semi-flat black for these applications.  I believe 
Rustoleum makes the stainless steel paint you asked about.  I've seen it at 
Tractor Supply.

Brian
VIN 1597


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 13:56:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cliff Andrews <fen2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: my delorean will not start..

Hi, my 82' D will not start, i asked this question to
the list a few weeks ago with not one response, sooo
heres to trying again :)

Heres the deal

When i go to start her up she will start up and run
for about 10 secs and then just die, even with the
acceleration pedal down giving some juice. And the car
will not start up even for that every time.. just on
the occasion.

I have checked these items but im not totally sure
enough to rule them out.

Fuel pump: When i jump the fuel pump i can hear it
running and i do get fuel pressure to the injectors
(they do squirt a little at startup and if pressure is
put on the air mixture plate they will squeel and
squirt like a mad dog)
But the fuel pump does not sound totally well, i get
some variations in sound other than the normal hum.

Fuel pump relay: n/a because im skipping this buy
jumping the fuel pump.

Please any and all suggestions will be greatly
appreciated.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 17:17:58 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: epoxy rear fascia bolts?

Hello List,
    I mentioned this once before but I never got around to doing it.  5 of 
the 7 bolts along the bottom of my rear fascia are snapped off.  I am going 
to be putting it back on this weekend when my rear closing panel comes.  some 
said to drill all the way through the fascia and just put bolts there.  I 
really dont want to do that.
    If I go buy studs at the hardware and grind the broken fascia bolt flat 
is there a strong enough epoxy that will hold the studs on?(brand name?) I 
would really like to do that If I can.  

Thanks
Dave
#2496-just put fenders on \_/


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 16:44:11 -0500
From: "Phil F" <delorean_at_dml_usfamily.net>
Subject: 81 for sale

Well, yesterday I went down to a car auction down in Blaine, MN (it's a suburb of St. Paul) there were some great cars a '69 Vette, a '62 Porsche 356B, and a 1981 DeLorean. The owner was trying to get at least $15,500.00 for the car, but the highest bid was $12,000.00 so the car wasn't sold. The auction was great and let you sit in the cars for auction, so I sat in the "D", but the most important thing was that I wrote down the Vin. It was SCEDT26T7BD004134 made in September of 1981. I was wondering of anyone knows who this is?

-Phil
philf_at_dml_ssesco.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:40:38 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: my delorean will not start..


Mine did that at one time, turned out to be the warm up regulator.  Some
people will tell you that they never go bad, but that's wrong, they do.
Mine would actually burn out the battery trying to start it.  But also, this
is a 250 dollar or so part, so you  might have it pressure tested before you
jump into that one.

Scott
#16738



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:43:33 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Loud squealing brakes

My brakes are killing me.  First off, the brakes started squealing terribly loud when you put any decent pressure on them. So I changed the pads.  They didn't look bad at all, but I changed them anyway.  They're still squealing. Nails on a chalkboard squealing.  It seems to get worse the longer the car is driven.  Yes, they have the anti squeal shims on them and I also tried some disc brake quiet, but that hasn't helped.  Any ideas??

Scott
#16738


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 01:29:32 -0000
From: "Tom Watkins watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net" <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: More pics in Vault

Hi,

I've added a folder to the vault of more of my BTTF add-on's as well 
as other car show pictures of my car stock.  I've gotten lots of 
private e-mails asking for more pictures of the work I did on the
car. 
 I'm happy that those who have written like it.  I took alot of 
pictures today of the add-ons off the car.  Lots of close up stuff so 
those that expressed and interest can check it out.  I hope the link 
below is correct. Please let me know if it doesn't work. 


http://www.eGroups.com/files/dmcnews/A+bunch+of+BTTF+add-on+pic%27s+and+other+stuff/

Tom   #05732



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 21:53:47 EDT
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Who Wants To Be A Delorean Millionaire?

I don't know if anyone saw the show tonight (Sunday) called Who Wants To Be A 
Millionaire.  The 64,000 dollar question was: "In the movie Back To The 
Future what speed does the DeLorean have to reach to travel back in time?"  
The choices were 66 mph, 77mph, 88mph, and 99 mph.  The contestant eliminated 
two answers leaving him to choose between 88 and 99.  He chose 99 which as we 
all know is the wrong answer.  Who says being a DeLorean owner can't make you 
wealthy?  I doubt anyone on this list would have missed that question :-)

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:19:26 -0700
From: "Dale Schaub" <daleschaub_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Radio Bracket

I believe a while back someone on this list fabricated a radio bracket that
allows the installation of the newer types of radios without cutting the
origninal car materials. Please e-mail me privately.

Dale Schaub



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:20:59 -0700
From: Jim <starbuck_at_dml_gate.net>
Subject: Re: my delorean will not start..


I had this problem exactly..  I found the mixture control unit was the
problem..  The flap that allows more air in was lightly open and it
killed the engine.. Mine  would start for about 3 seconds and then die
and then it wouldn't  start at all..

Hope this helped,
Jim



Cliff Andrews wrote:

> Hi, my 82' D will not start, i asked this question to
> the list a few weeks ago with not one response, sooo
> heres to trying again :)
>
> Heres the deal
>
> When i go to start her up she will start up and run
> for about 10 secs and then just die, even with the
> acceleration pedal down giving some juice. And the car
> will not start up even for that every time.. just on
> the occasion.
>
> I have checked these items but im not totally sure
> enough to rule them out.
>
> Fuel pump: When i jump the fuel pump i can hear it
> running and i do get fuel pressure to the injectors
> (they do squirt a little at startup and if pressure is
> put on the air mixture plate they will squeel and
> squirt like a mad dog)
> But the fuel pump does not sound totally well, i get
> some variations in sound other than the normal hum.
>
> Fuel pump relay: n/a because im skipping this buy
> jumping the fuel pump.
>
> Please any and all suggestions will be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com/
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:25:18 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: epoxy rear fascia bolts?

I recently had the same thing occur to me.  After talking to PJG, they have
replacement stud plates that you can purchase.  To install, you will need to
grind out the plate that is molded into the fascia place the new stud plate
in place and apply some urethane to hold it in place.  They sell all of what
you will need.  The worst part is removing the original plates.  I started
on mine, but ran out of time and had to stop.  I have not started up again
yet though, so I cannot confirm the outcome of this procedure.  I can tell
you this, I did get the original plate exposed, but it is still solidly held
in place from behind.  That is why I stopped.  I did not have enough time to
get the rest of the car put back together for a show the next day if I
continued.  I hope this helps, and I hope you can pull off this project.

By the way, each of these stud plates were about $5.

Sean Howley
VIN#2345


<I mentioned this once before but I never got around to doing it.  5 of
 the 7 bolts along the bottom of my rear fascia are snapped off.  I am going
to be putting it back on this weekend when my rear closing panel comes.
some
said to drill all the way through the fascia and just put bolts there.  I
really dont want to do that.>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 23:07:12 EDT
From: paraversal_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Loud squealing brakes

List-

I dont want this to sound like another "me too" posting, but my brakes are 
also squeaking horribly. When Im driving at around 25-35 mph, the brake light 
will come on and it will feel like the emergency brake will try to engage, 
although I will feel no resistance from it, the brakes will make a loud 
squeal. Sometimes it will be kinda soft, while at other times it is horribly 
loud, to the point of waking neighbors at night when I come home. However 
when Im on the highway, or just go above 40 mph, there is not a problem. Keep 
in mind that this doesnt just happen when I try to brake, but also just when 
I am driving like normal.

Also, I dont know if this is related or not, but when I brake, sometimes the 
brakes will work perfectly, but at other times I will press the brake almost 
all the way down to the floor, and it still takes a bit to slow down. It will 
also pull to the left fairly strongly.

Is this related? Do I just need a brake job??

Justin
VIN 5172
DeLorean Michigan


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:07:48 -0500
From: "Travis Graham" <thgraham_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: RE: Angle Drive

Hello,

I've heard many nightmares on angle drives and what is required to cure the
problems with them.  My understanding is that 20 wt. gear oil is (or was)
recommended.  I installed Redline "MTF" synthetic gear oil (which is red in
color) in my transmission long ago and just for kicks put the same stuff in
my angle drive when I thought it was about to quit.  Before this oil: the
speedo needle would shoot down to zero, then back to 75 on the freeway.
After the new oil: everything is stable (relatively).  That was almost 2
years ago and I haven't checked it since.  Of course, now that I have said
this, my angle drive will most likely die tomorrow!

Regards,
Travis Graham


-----Original Message-----
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:delorean31_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 1:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Angle Drive

I was wondering what type of oil or lubricant would be best for me to use on
my angle drive.  I am not comfortable with the 20 year old factory
recommended type with all the innovations that have been made over the
years.  There are certainly better choices available.  I had heard of new
red colored type
being used recently.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 03:40:51 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, delorean31_at_dml_a... wrote:
> My speedometer starting acting erratic for the first time
yesterday. 
 However 
>

In response to your desire to lubro the angle drive my first thoughts
would be to first check the plastic cup and drive cable on the front 
left wheel. Make sure that the hole in the disk is nice and square
and 
the cable fully engages in the hole. Lubro the cable and when putting 
the wheel back on make sure it locks the disk from turning.
Next remove the screw on the angle drive and with a small hand-held 
grease gun pump a small amount in.After doing that remove the lower 
cable and put a small amount of speedo cable lubricant on the cable
as 
you reinstall it. If you are very ambitious and want to lube the
upper 
cable you will have to disconnect the cable at the speedo to remove
it 
 David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  
> Gary Gore
> Activities Director
> DeLorean Mid Atlantic
> VIN 3360



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 03:58:16 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: my delorean will not start..

My first thoughts would be electical. Try to verify that you are 
getting spark up till the engine quits. Use a spare spark plug or
test 
plug in one of the ignition wires and observe it while someone else 
tries to start and keep the motor running. If at that point the
sparks 
 continue as the engine stops then you have a confirmed fuel problem.
At this point the best route would be to install a fuel pressure test
gauge to help pinpoint the problem. Some of the more simple things to 
do would be a fuel flow test or replace the fuel filter, check the 
pickup and suction hose to make sure it isn't picking up air, make 
sure there is enough fuel in the tank (don't trust the gauge)or if
you 
are very brave as the engine starts squirt a SMAll amount of ether 
into the fuel mixture unit. If you can keep it running on ether then 
you know that you have a fuel delivery problem.

David Teitelbaum 
Vin 10757 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Jim <starbuck_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> I had this problem exactly..  I found the mixture control unit was 
the
> problem..  > Hope this helped,
> Jim
> 
> 
> 
> Cliff Andrews wrote:
> 
> > Hi, my 82' D will not start, i asked this question to
> > the list a few weeks ago with not one response, sooo
> > heres to trying again :)
> >
> > Heres the deal
> >
> > When i go to start her up she will start up and run
> > for about 10 secs and then just die, even with the
> > acceleration pedal down giving some juice. And the car
> > will not start up even for that every time.. just on
> > the occasion.
> >


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 04:07:59 -0000
From: "jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net " <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Loud squealing brakes

Since you said you did all of the most simple things you must now do 
something more drastic. The first thing would be to get a 3" sanding 
disc in a drill with about 80 grit and with a lite pressure break the 
glaze all around on both sides of the rotor on both rotors, whatever 
you do on one side you must do to the other. If that helps but
doesn't 
eliminate the squell then have the rotors cut .005-.010 to remove the 
glaze and true up the surfaces. You might have to do all 4 wheels 
because it is very hard to determine where the noise comes from.

David Teitelbaum
Vin 10757 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> My brakes are killing me.  First off, the brakes started squealing 
terribly loud when you put any decent pressure on them. So I changed 
the pads.  They didn't look bad at all, but I changed them anyway.  
They're still squealing. Nails on a chalkboard squealing.  It seems
to 


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________