From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 2:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 52

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moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: leather die
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

2. Back to the future MOD
From: moxwepon1_at_dml_yahoo.com

3. RE: NO AIR CONDITIONING
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

4. Re: Taping gas caps
From: scottmueller<scottmueller_at_dml_al.freei.net>

5. RE: epoxy rear fascia bolts?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>

6. Re: NO AIR CONDITIONING
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: Autocrossing the D (& tire report)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. seat wear
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>

9. 1981 DMC for sale
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

10. Re: Vin plate Location
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

11. aluminum blocks, and "metal disappearing act"
From: "Nate!!" <madpiper_at_dml_codenet.net>

12. Door rubs t panel
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

13. Rear facia assembly
From: billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: 81 for sale
From: Devin Mitchell <devin_mitchell_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. The Resurrection of Vixen Contiues...
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

16. Re: Car show in NC
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Autocrossing the D (& tire report)
From: ledgend2_at_dml_aol.com

18. Fuel gauge points straight up
From: J <sundiver_at_dml_discordia.org>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:43:11 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: RE: leather die

  Look for 'Nu-Life Color Spray', #614 Grey. It's a match for the DeLorean
interior. You should be able to find it at your local shoe repair shops.

================================================================
Ken Montgomery	    Sacramento, CA       VIN #10911  'OUTTIME'
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm	 mailto:kenm_at_dml_csus.edu
Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://members.tripod.com/ncdmc/
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com  mailto:directory_at_dml_dmcnews.com
================================================================

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Erik Geerdink [mailto:delorean502_at_dml_excite.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 1:42 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] leather die
> 
> 
> Could someone suggest to me a grey die that looks original?  I need 
> it for my seats.  thanks
> 
> Erik Geerdink
> 4512
> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 


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Message: 2
Date: 16 May 2000 12:13:14 -0500
From: moxwepon1_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Back to the future MOD

I am getting a DeLorean from a friend at work in two months and i want to make a 
modification for the back to make it look like its from back to the future, i will probably 
eventually put the wires all over the car too but i first need to make the rear exhaust part, 
problem is though, that i need to find some sort of blueprints or schematics to make it. does 
anypne have any suggestions or ideas? thanks
Derek




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:20:16 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: NO AIR CONDITIONING

I have this problem with my A/C currently.  After much searching, I
determined it to tbe the pressure switch on the dryer/accumulator thingy
under the front passenger wheelwell.  I thought it would be the connector
but it seems to be the switch itself.  The problem is intermittent and can
usually be resolved with a little jiggling (i.e., "impact engineering").

To test it, you can jumper the two wires on the harness attached to the
switch.  This should engage the clutch on the compressor.  DON'T LEAVE IT
THIS WAY, this is for troubleshooting only.  Without the switch, the
compressor will run continuously and will overpressurize.

Good luck,
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecil Longwisch [mailto:dmc1982_at_dml_compaq.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 7:09 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] NO AIR CONDITIONING
>
>
> I was working on my car cooling fans with the engine idling and the air
> conditioning on. The compressor clutch began cycling in and out
> and finally
> quit and won't pull in now.
> This is a problem I have never had before! Help...
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663
> ILDMC1982
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 05:24:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: scottmueller<scottmueller_at_dml_al.freei.net>
Subject: Re: Taping gas caps

Ken, Most car shows that I have attended require all cars to have a fire extinguisher on 
board.  I will have an extinguisher in my car and I hope that all of the other owners travel 
with one readily available.

Scott Mueller
1981/002981

------- Original Copy -------
>Subject: [DML] Taping gas caps
>Date: 05/15/2000 4:22 PM
>From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


>I have had a number of you ask about the taping of the caps. I am more worried about 
getting enough fire 
>extinguishers. I have quite a few responses so far so hopefully I don't have 
>to bring a bunch.
>
>Thanks again
>
>Ken





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 08:25:05 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>
Subject: RE: epoxy rear fascia bolts?

I used Urethane adhesive to replace my bolts.  Grind the old stud and plate
from the fascia until you get to the flat mounting surface.  A little
roughness will help with adhesion.  Imbed the flat plate in the urethane
adhesive and let cure.  I put it on the to and bottom totally covering the
plate.

When you install the fascia, cover the exposed stud and nut in grease or a
heavy wax to prevent rust.  Reapply periodically.  Personally, I recommend
greasing/waxing all the bolts under the car to help prevent rust and make it
easier to remove should the need arise.  Many of the bolts are small
diameter and break easy if rusted.

Urethane adhesive is what they use to install windows and comes in a
caulking tube.  It is about $12 and is easy to work with other than being
messy.

Nick Kemp

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com



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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 09:11:44 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: NO AIR CONDITIONING

Sounds like you have a loss of freon. Check to be sure that you have at
least 2lb of R-12 on the low side of the system. If you don't have access to
a pressure gauge bring your "D" to an AC repair facility for the same test.

"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Cecil Longwisch <dmc1982_at_dml_compaq.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 8:08 PM
Subject: [DML] NO AIR CONDITIONING


> I was working on my car cooling fans with the engine idling and the air
> conditioning on. The compressor clutch began cycling in and out and
finally
> quit and won't pull in now.
> This is a problem I have never had before! Help...
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663
> ILDMC1982
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 09:21:37 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Autocrossing the D (& tire report)

I wanted to respond to this section of Jonathan's message because I
completely agree with his statement. I test drive DeLorean's all the time
and am a very big supporter of the Yoko's. If you want to get the maximum
suspension and steering performance from your DeLorean the Yokohama is the
only way to go.

"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Jonathan Heslop <gatewayaag_at_dml_mindspring.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 8:33 PM
Subject: [DML] Autocrossing the D (& tire report)


>
> I also just put a new set of Yokohoma AVS tires on it.  On and off the
track
> the car's handling and ride have been GREATLY improved due to the tires,
> springs, shocks, etc.
>
> A few weeks ago some one bad mouthed the Yoko's and endorsed the
Firehawks.
> This was absolutely wrong.  I ran Firestone Firehawks on my D for 10
months
> and 2000 miles.  They are JUNK compared to these Yoko's.  I also borrowed
a
> set of BFG Comp TAs for a few hundred miles.  MUCH, MUCH better than the
> Firehawks, but not as nice as the Yoko's.  By all means, spend the extra
> money on the Yokohoma tires.
>
> --Jonathan
>   #000697




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 17:56:32 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: seat wear

This may sound like a dumb question, but it's for a good cause.

Generaly, after how many miles would a Delorean seat start to show 
wear?

I ask this because a Delorean is for sale at an import car lot who 
hates deloreans, and they don't like me very much now.  They say it 
has 4500 miles on it, but there is wear on the seats.  I looked at 
the Lambda counter and it reads 027 which is about 8,100 miles.  but 
I wouldn't think that after 8,100miles there would be wear on the 
seat.  I think they (former owner) reset the lambda counter to 000 
after it hit 100 giving the Delorean 38,100 miles, which would 
explain the wear on the seats.
I told them this and they asked me to leave the lot.  That the 
Delorean has 4500 certified miles.  how else could you certify how 
many miles are on a Delorean without looking at the Lambda counter?  

maybe I'm going to far and I should not think about it so hard, but I 
really want to prove these people wrong.



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 22:02:07 +0100
From: "chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: 1981 DMC for sale

Hi all

If anyone is looking for a car that needs restoration look at this one on ebay _at_dml_ $.4.5k needs new RH fender and door, black manual, early 81(GAS FLAP)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=332350007&r=0&t=0




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 22:48:51 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: Vin plate Location

I have seen about half of the entire production of RHD's all except one are
still on the left side of the car..the one exception has never had the one
fitted in the door opening ( no holes drilled) but all have the one near the
w/screen..still on the left hand side.

Chris P DOC UK

----- Original Message -----
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302_at_dml_msn.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 8:13 PM
Subject: [DML] Vin plate Location


> I was just wondering as I was looking at the poster of the right hand
drive
> Delorean (british spec car)on the poster you can see that the Vin Tag on
the
> poster Delorean is on what is the passenger side sill(I know it is a
reverse
> negative photo),but I was wondering if the vin tags are moved over to the
> right side (both vin plates) when a car is converted to British or all
other
> countries,that mandate that the cars have to be converted to right hand
> drive,or are they just left where the factory put them,I know here in
> Connecticut if you remove a vin plate for any reason,and then reinstall
> it,even for restoration purposes,you can get into very deep S**T,
because
> as far as I know all cars have the vin tags on the same side as where  the
> Driver sits.... any comments on that....Thanks
>
> Claude
> 000570
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:16:56 -0600
From: "Nate!!" <madpiper_at_dml_codenet.net>
Subject: aluminum blocks, and "metal disappearing act"

After looking all over my motor... I realized that it has no Magnesium plug
in it... unless I am missing the bloody thing somewhere. My 308 GTii has 2,
one in each head, my Lancia Beta had one, even my lowly FIAT 124 has one
(from international auto parts)... Mercury Marine put one in my chevy
powered boat... is electrolosis not a problem with the PRV? (I really don't
see how it could not be.) Ferrari's manual requires that the plugs be
changed at 25K intervals... and they are pretty much erroded to nothing by
then... what nice electrolosis is eating my PRV motor? wait... maybe I don't
want to know.



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 21:49:33 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Door rubs t panel

Hi-
My passenger side door has a small scrape mark about an inch long near the 
front corner of the door top.  When the door opens fully, it clears the t 
panel as it pivots down, then touches the edge of the t panel.  I see the 
door edge that rubs actually sits a little higher there, maybe 1/8 inch or 
more.  The car also leaks here slightly, under high pressure at the car wash. 
 How can I adjust this?  Loosen, slide door,  and retighten door bolts?  Any 
tips?

-Wayne
"Living the dream!"
11174                    


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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 23:27:52 EDT
From: billschaferabn_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Rear facia assembly

Group,

  I am in need of a used rear facia to fit my 82 D. My old facia has a 
separation tear on the passenger side just below the bottom of the black 
bumper section. I am hoping someone out there has a good spare one or maybe 
there is a parts only D that might have a slightly used facia in good 
condition. Please email me at the above address. Thanks.

Bill
Vin#11596


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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:38:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Devin Mitchell <devin_mitchell_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 81 for sale



Phil:

     Here is some information about that DeLoran you sat in.  Info is
from Carfax.  Looks like this D has had some major issues....

---
Vehicle ID:       SCEDT26T7BD004134  
Yr/Mfg:       1981 Delorean  
Model:       Delorean  
Body:       2D Cpe. 2-seat car  
Engine:       2.8L V6 SOHC  
Fuel:       Gasoline  
Driveline:       Rear-wheel drive  
Aspiration:       Normal  
Country Mfg.:       United Kingdom  

 
RESULT: PROBLEM TITLE(S) FOUND 

The VIN submitted was checked against the Carfax database to determine
if any title document for this 1981 Delorean was designated or marked
with any of the following types of problems:  

Salvage/Junk Title       PROBLEM TITLE FOUND  
Rebuilt/Reconstructed Title       PROBLEM TITLE FOUND  
Flood Damage Title       PROBLEM TITLE FOUND  
Damage Disclosure Title       Checked. No Problem Title Found.  
Manufacturer Buyback (LEMON) Title       Checked. No Problem Title
Found.  
Exceeds Mechanical Limits Title       Checked. No Problem Title Found. 

Not Actual Mileage Title       Checked. No Problem Title Found.  


 
RESULT: No odometer rollback detected in the Carfax database. 

The VIN submitted for this 1981 Delorean was checked against the Carfax
database to determine if any reported odometer reading is less than a
previous reading.  

 
The Carfax database contains the following information about this 1981
Delorean: 

DATE       ODOMETER       INFORMATION       GENERAL  
REPORTED       READING       SOURCE       COMMENTS  
                               
03/25/1982       25       Illinois       First lien reported  
                    Motor Vehicle Dept.            
                    Lemont, IL            
                    Title #A4148922            
                               
09/20/1988       15,124       Illinois       First lien reported  
                    Motor Vehicle Dept.            
                    Lemont, IL            
                    Title #J5281106            
                               
07/06/1996       18,000       Illinois       Failed emissions
inspection  
                    Inspection Station            
                    Downers Grove, IL            
                               
07/09/1996             Illinois       Passed emissions inspection  
                    Inspection Station            
                    Downers Grove, IL            
                               
11/18/1996             Illinois       SALVAGE TITLE/CERTIFICATE  
                    Motor Vehicle Dept.       ISSUED  
                    Naperville, IL       REBUILT TITLE ISSUED  
                    Title #T6309209014       Not built to US emissions 

                          specifications  
                               
08/05/1997             Illinois       Title or registration  
                    Motor Vehicle Dept.       issued  
                    Harvey, IL            
                    Title #T7217792024            
                               
10/02/1997             Minnesota       SALVAGE TITLE/CERTIFICATE  
                    Motor Vehicle Dept.       ISSUED  
                    Anoka, MN       FLOOD DAMAGE TITLE ISSUED  
                    Title #W2750J275       Exempt from odometer  
                          reporting  
                               
10/29/1997             Minnesota       SALVAGE TITLE/CERTIFICATE  
                    Motor Vehicle Dept.       ISSUED  
                    Anoka, MN       Exempt from odometer  
                    Title #W3020J401       reporting  
                               
12/17/1997             Minnesota       Exempt from odometer  
                    Motor Vehicle Dept.       reporting  
                    Anoka, MN            
                    Title #F3510J684            







--- Phil F <delorean_at_dml_usfamily.net> wrote:
> Well, yesterday I went down to a car auction down in Blaine, MN (it's
> a suburb of St. Paul) there were some great cars a '69 Vette, a '62
> Porsche 356B, and a 1981 DeLorean. The owner was trying to get at
> least $15,500.00 for the car, but the highest bid was $12,000.00 so
> the car wasn't sold. The auction was great and let you sit in the
> cars for auction, so I sat in the "D", but the most important thing
> was that I wrote down the Vin. It was SCEDT26T7BD004134 made in
> September of 1981. I was wondering of anyone knows who this is?
> 
> -Phil
> philf_at_dml_ssesco.com
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 


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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 23:43:07 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Contiues...

Okay,

So last time I said I'd talk about about the seven months it took to get
my rear brakes rebuilt...  Here's the deal:

Although the rear calipers I received with the car looked brand new,
they must have been used at least briefly by the previous owner.  They
leaked an orangish, rusty brake fluid when handled.  Rather than just
flush them, I decided to rebuild them.  I stopped in a local NAPA to get
a rebuild kit, and they offered to send them to their rebuilders for
only $50 each.  Not bad, I thought.  Should save time...

However, I dropped them off right before Thanksgiving, but heard nothing
from them for months.  It turns out that they lost them.  They
eventually turned up in their warehouse, on the shelf.  Somehow they had
mistakenly restocked my used calipers as new.  (?)  Anyway, they sent
them to the rebuilders, who kept them for another three months or so,
only to return them saying they could not rebuild them, so I got them
back two weeks ago, got a rebuild kit from PJ Grady, and finished the
job.

I soaked each one in carburetor dip overnight, and then in brake cleaner
for another night. I then blew them all out with a high-pressure air
hose.  The castings ended up looking like brand-new pieces.  Adding the
seals and seating the pistons & dust covers took about 5 minutes, and I
was done.  Should have done it myself in the first place.

On a related brake note, at the Pittsburgh World of Wheels show this
February, I happened to spot a hot rod with -would you believe it- what
appeared to be chromed DeLorean calipers.  They were mounted inboard on
a Jaguar differential, which has the brake discs mounted on the axle,
almost in the center of the car.  A little bit of research yielded (and
I love discovering these) A CROSS REFERENCE!!!

Here's the specs:

1974-79 XJS (Actually, pretty much any Jag from 74 - the 80's.) rears
calipers:
Check out the rear caliper pics for yourself at:
http://www.welshent.com/brakes.htm and you'll see that they do match.
The casting number is the same, too -- TYPE M14H.  The required pads,
rebuild kits, pistons -- all the same.  Oh, and this includes the
parking brake as well.

Raybestos: ($225 ea. lifetime warranty with pads and hardware)
Left: RC3856
Right: RC3855

Beck Arnley: ($175 ea. lifetime warranty with pads and hardware)
L: 079-0233
R: 079-0234

Pro Stop (Pep Boys): ($175 ea. lifetime warranty with pads and hardware)

L: 40-57517
R: 40-57516

Add this to the front caliper cross reference...

1976 Mercury Capri front calipers:

Raybestos: ($75 ea. lifetime warranty with pads and hardware _at_dml_ Pep Boys)

L: RC3004
R: RC3003

... and you've got a complete set.  Now, does anyone know a cross for
the booster?  Since the brake M/C is from a Saab, I'm going to start by
looking there.  I think mine leaks a bit...

Next message, I'll talk a bit about driving around in a bodyless
DeLorean. YES!  She moves!  (And stops, too).  =)

-Dave Stragand
VIN#05927
http://www.ProjectVixen.com




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 23:55:53 EDT
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Car show in NC

Dear list,
    I would like to make one additional announcement about the car show on 
Sunday.  I did not know this before, but the registration fee is on a 
donation basis, if that makes any difference for those of you that have 
thought about attending.  I have been contacted by two list members as of 
today (5/16), one of which is an owner.  It would be nice to have a couple of 
more DeLoreans if possible.  Again, contact me directly if you are interested.

Thank you,
Darren Decker 
#5000  


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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 00:14:58 EDT
From: ledgend2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Autocrossing the D (& tire report)


   Just wondering if anybody has Fulda tires on their Deloreans... I have a 
set on 

mine, and it handles very well.    -Dave


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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 00:31:09 -0400
From: J <sundiver_at_dml_discordia.org>
Subject: Fuel gauge points straight up



I just got my car back after months of being in the shop, and now
the fuel gauge just points straight up. Since among the things replaced
were the fuel pump and throttle cable, I think its most likely that
they knocked a wire loose somewhere. The ones going to the sender
seem ok.

Can anyone tell me which wires under the dash go to the fuel gauge? Its
not at all obvious to me, either from the service manual or from sticking
my head under the dash and trying to trace the wires. I understand the
ciruit. I just can seem to match the wiring diagram to the physical wires.

I could just take the car back to the shop and tell them to fix it,
but I've been without the car far to long already.

Thanks.

- J



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