From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 1:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 62

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: More Power...
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

2. DeLorean Club Netherlands
From: "Mario Perotti" <perotti_at_dml_planet.nl>

3. Re: NO 3rd or 4th fan speed
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat_at_dml_erols.com>

4. Re: Compartment Behind Driver's Seat
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat_at_dml_erols.com>

5. Re: 1986 delorean???
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat_at_dml_erols.com>

6. digi camera
From: "Archie G Hill" <ahelio1_at_dml_ixpnet.com>

7. Re: Compartment Behind Driver's Seat
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

8. $10,000 D for sale
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: More Power...
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: NO 3rd or 4th fan speed
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: More Power...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

12. Re: More Power...
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

13. ALTERNATOR
From: pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com

14. Re: More Power...
From: Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_delorean.ch>

15. looking for Kristin Hicks
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>

16. Re: ALTERNATOR
From: "Empress Ballroom" <empressballroom_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. More $10,000 D.
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: Re: More Power...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

19. door hinge shims
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

20. Fascia, Best offer takes it
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

21. Canada to Cleveland / souvenir
From: Printed Drinkware Company <drinkware_at_dml_lweb.net>

22. RE: ALTERNATOR
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>

23. Please Take Survey
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>

24. New poll for dmcnews
From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com

25. Can't Drive Fifty-Five? Results
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 16:41:11 EDT
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: More Power...

I replaced my Alternator with the Delco 105 amp unit sold by PJ Grady.  It 
works flawlessly and the voltmeter never drops below 13 amps even with A/C 
and the headlights running.  You sound like you are having the same problem I 
had with the original Duceilier Alternator.

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 03360

<< Hi guys,
 
 Have any of you noticed a large draw on your Voltometer when you turn on the 
AC?  I have really noticed when I turn on the AC that some times at Idle the 
meter reads under 13 VOlts.  Is that pretty common?  Have any of you 
purchased a better alternator, or another fix?  
 
 Thanks,
 
 C
 
 VIN 16367 >>



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 21:02:33 -0000
From: "Mario Perotti" <perotti_at_dml_planet.nl>
Subject: DeLorean Club Netherlands

We recently updated the DeLorean Club Netherlands website 
at http://www.delorean.nl to include the pictures from the recent 
meeting at the yearly spring event.
(see News and Photo). 16 DeLorean's attend, a huge number of cars 
for such a small country. Also 2 Belgian owners crossed the border to 
take part.

Many Club members were given free "consultations," so to speak, on
our cars. We ran through as thorough of an inspection on our cars on 
(factory) updates.
Owners were able to ask what needed to be done, should be done, and 
what we might want to do to their cars.

Mario Perotti
DeLorean Club Netherlands




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 17:18:50 -0400
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat_at_dml_erols.com>
Subject: Re: NO 3rd or 4th fan speed

> Nick Kemp wrote:
> 
> Note that this tidbit was picked up from the aviation business where they do
> a lot of crimped connections.  Soldered and crimped is either HIGHLY
> discouraged or unacceptable, I forget which.  A good crimped connection is
> more than adequate.  Using a good ratcheting style crimper should produce a
> very good connection.

I was in aircraft maintenance for 6 years on the B-52 specializing in radar
and navigation instruments in general.  Crimping at a connector was NEVER
acceptable, at least not with signal and/or low power wires.  Neither was any 
type of splice. Crimping provides an excellent "mechanical" connection but is
not considered to be an acceptable "electrical" connection, at least not by the 
U.S. Air Force.  Connections are typically made at the "black box" and bulkheads
using "cannon plugs" having pins with solder wells on the back side.  Soldering
pins on a cannon plug is somewhat of an art.  I should point out that all of the 
connectors had some sort of integral strain relief where there would never be any
strain placed on the soldered connection.  If a wire was broken at the connector
and there was not enough "slack" to resolder to a new pin, the entire run of wire
had to be replaced.  Absolutely NO splices were allowed.  I worked with high
speed packaging machinery for nearly 30 years where crimped splices and crimped
connections were both entirely acceptable and routinely practiced.  So were
soldered connections.  The key is to do either "properly".


Ed Thompson (#6419 since 1982)



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 17:29:32 -0400
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat_at_dml_erols.com>
Subject: Re: Compartment Behind Driver's Seat

> Stian Birkeland wrote:
> 
> My compartment lid is "loose", meaning than whenever I use my key to open
> it, it sort of jumps out of the two fitting holes that I would guess should
> hold it in place.  I would also guess that this is not the way its supposed 
> to function...or is it? 

There is nothing wrong with the way your door operates.  It was originally
designed to function exactly as you have described.  The two tabs on the 
bottom end of the door keep it snugly in place when the key is turned to the
locked position.  If the tabs are missing or if the slots are damaged then
you have a problem.

Ed Thompson (#6419 since 1982)
Tag "WIDGET"



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 17:42:57 -0400
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat_at_dml_erols.com>
Subject: Re: 1986 delorean???

> "J.D. Robbins" wrote:
> 
> URL of interest... good for a giggle:
> 
> http://jameuro.com/ForSale.htm

It is quite possible that this could be a "1986" DeLorean according
to the title.  When the factory was closed there were 1000 or so
unsold DeLoreans at the factory.  Most were shipped to the U.S. for
sale (not re-sale) some time later.  Most of those were sold and
titled as 1983's.  Actually all 1982 and later Deloreans were built
during 1982.  In some states, (and countries) new, unsold vehicles
are titled and dated in the year they are first sold, not built.  I'm 
quite sure there were some new-never-before-titled DeLoreans still 
around in 1986.  As a matter of fact it is quite possible that there
may still be a new-never-before-titled DeLorean lurking in a dark
corner somewhere.

Ed Thompson
#6419 since 1982 (for sale, BTW)
Tag: WIDGET



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 15:07:30 -0700
From: "Archie G Hill" <ahelio1_at_dml_ixpnet.com>
Subject: digi camera

	hello I have a digital camera and a 81 gray interior and would be glad to
help.   you may email me at ahelio1_at_dml_ixpnet.com				archie hill
               vin05395




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 18:49:14 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Compartment Behind Driver's Seat

You turn the key, then lift the door out. To close, you line up the two
pins in the lower edge of the door with the sockets in the car, then pivot
the door shut and turn the key to lock. So, yes, yours sounds normal.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 10:44 AM 5/25/00 PDT, you wrote:
>
>Hello,
>I'm just curious as to how the compartment's lid is supposed to open. I'm 
>talking about the compartment behind the driver's seat.
<snip>
>
>Best wishes
>Stian Birkeland
>NORWAY



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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 22:01:04 CDT
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: $10,000 D for sale

Guys,

     I am sorry for not getting back with all of you. I moved to N. Carolina 
and have just gotten back online. The car is still for sale. I will post a 
notice when I have pics scanned in, so I can ship them to anyone interested. 
You can also e-mail me, and I will send you the pics when I get them. If 
anyone wants to look at the car, e-mail me privately. It is located in 
Huntsville, AL. Here is some info on the condition. The car looks and runs 
great, but needs a new brake master, radiator, and could probably use new 
hoses and a water pump soon. Has new parts like a thermostat, label set, oil 
pressure sending switch, belts, air duct hose, etc...Runs great, but might 
overheat because of radiator leak etc... Has not overheated yet!!! Anyway, I 
will get back with you! Needs very little to be fully drivable.

Thanks
Sean
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 23:04:11 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: More Power...

Carson: Depending on your car, you could have a 80 amp Ducellier , or a 90 
amp motorola alternator. I like all the D' owners have struggled with this 
problem. I finally designed and built a 140 amp that will virtually 
eliminate's the problem $195.00 exchange, with a 1 year warr. I'm also 
working on a 180 amp , that when finished will supply your local power 
company. If your intrested in the 140, give me a email.
John
vin 11004
dherv10_at_dml_aol.com



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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 23:19:48 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: NO 3rd or 4th fan speed

Nick, Either can be done. I used to watched  Boeing solder after they 
crimped. The problen I see is the cheap connectors and bad tools. I used to 
sell mil-spec terminals and crimpers and with proper products crimp is ok. 
But where is the everyday person going to find T & B terminals, that have a 
brased barrel and full rachet tools . Most won't send the money. So with 
everyday terminals and plier's for crimpers, where you solder is important. I 
put a touch of solder, not at the back of the barrel but at the connector end 
and none of the solder leaches up to the back. This is what Boeing did to 
insure a safer connection more secure connection. Your right that vibration 
is a proplem along with heat and cold expansion. Have a good one. My 2C worth.
John 
vin 11004.    



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 22:23:15 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: More Power...

Carson,

This is a common situation in the DeLorean due to the fact that both high
amperage cooling fans and the AC compressor are switched on simultaneously.
The simple cure for this problem is by installing the a Fanzilla.

"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Carson Clark <cnsandog_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: DMC Group <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 2:27 PM
Subject: [DML] More Power...


>
> Hi guys,
>
> Have any of you noticed a large draw on your Voltometer when you turn on
the AC?  I have really noticed when I turn on the AC that some times at Idle
the meter reads under 13 VOlts.  Is that pretty common?  Have any of you
purchased a better alternator, or another fix?
>
> Thanks,
>
> C
>
> VIN 16367
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 04:01:23 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: More Power...

I have the same problem as well, especialy at night when I have the 
A/C on plus my head lights at an idle. I then drop to about 11.5V, 
and everything goes dim. When I hit the gas power increases, but 
only goes up to 13V. With the engine idling with no accesories on, 
the voltometer reads about 14V. I have the 90 amp Motorloa 
alternator, and the workshop manual says that normal operating range 
is between 13.5-15 volts, but it doesn't state wheather this readings 
are taken durring accessory operation or not. Either way, is this 
drop normal? The Duceller 80 amp alternators were not able to keep up 
with everything, but was the Motorola only put in to get the car by, 
or was it intended to fully "feed" the entire system?

-Robert
vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Carson Clark <cnsandog_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Have any of you noticed a large draw on your Voltometer when you 
turn on the AC?  I have really noticed when I turn on the AC that 
some times at Idle the meter reads under 13 VOlts.  Is that pretty 
common?  Have any of you purchased a better alternator, or another 
fix?  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> C
> 
> VIN 16367
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 00:46:28 EDT
From: pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: ALTERNATOR


IS THERE ANYONE THAT KNOWS OF A RELATIVELY INEXPENSIVE ALTERNATOR SWAP FOR MY 
MOTOROLA? EVERYTHING I HAVE FOUND HAS BEEN IN THE $350 RANGE.....TOO HIGH!!!! 
   ANYONE?????



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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 09:10:34 +0200
From: Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_delorean.ch>
Subject: Re: More Power...

Hi Carson

Carson Clark wrote:
> 
> Have any of you noticed a large draw on your Voltometer when you turn on the AC?
> I have really noticed when I turn on the AC that some times at Idle the meter reads
> under 13 VOlts.  Is that pretty common?  Have any of you purchased a better alternator,
> or another fix?

Since both fans (approx. 20A current draw each) come on when you switch the
A/C on the voltage will certainly drop below 13V.
My meter is usually between the 8V and 13V marker at idle with the A/C on.
So I'd say this is pretty normal ;-)
You can minimize the instant voltage drop when the A/C is switched on
by using the famous "FanZilla" module from PJ Grady. It turnes the fans on
sequentially.

Regards,
Roland

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roland Barmettler - roli_at_dml_DeLorean.ch - http://www.DeLorean.ch - VIN #11512



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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 12:13:09 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: looking for Kristin Hicks

Hi, 
I'm really sorry for having to use the DML for this, but if Kristin 
Hicks reads this, could you please e-mail me your phone number.  I'd 
like to get back to you regarding the Delorean Michigan Club.  

Thanks

Erik Geerdink
4512




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 12:35:20 GMT
From: "Empress Ballroom" <empressballroom_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ALTERNATOR

The SEDOC in Gainesville, GA- there was a guy who was art of the committee 
who was selling new or rebuilts for cheaper. I can't remember his name, but 
he was at the convention in Gainesville 1999.

-empress


>From: pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
>Subject: [DML] ALTERNATOR
>Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 00:46:28 EDT
>
>
>IS THERE ANYONE THAT KNOWS OF A RELATIVELY INEXPENSIVE ALTERNATOR SWAP FOR 
>MY
>MOTOROLA? EVERYTHING I HAVE FOUND HAS BEEN IN THE $350 RANGE.....TOO 
>HIGH!!!!
>    ANYONE?????
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 07:52:27 CDT
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: More $10,000 D.

Group!

  Wow!!! What a response! Here is a little more info. Grey interior, 5-speed 
with 49,500 miles. VIN# 7003. All gauges work. A/C works, but needs a 
recharge. Car to my knowledge has had three owners before me. Tires have 
over 50% tread left. Also have a new PJ Grady heatshield. Any more 
questions...please write!

Sean
VIN 7003


________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 09:30:27 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: More Power...

The DeLorean voltmeter normally reads approximately 1 volt lower than the
alternator output. To determine the actual alternator voltage output use an
external voltmeter and take the reading between the engine block and the
jump start post. Perform two separate tests, one with all accessories off
and another with all accessories on.

Next check the voltage reading at the electrical compartment at the positive
side of fuse #5, again with all accessories off and on. If there is a
voltage difference greater than 1 volt you may have a bad ground connection.

We regularly find corrosion at both the rear and front frame ground
connections. Keep in mind that the DeLorean electrical system differs from
the normal automotive electrical system in that three is no universal
body/chassis ground. The entire electrical system is dependent on three
frame
connecting points. This is also a good time to clean or replace all of the
fuses in the fuse block. We regularly find corrosion at both the rear and
front frame ground connections and fuses. If there is any excessive voltage
drop in any of the above tests after the frame grounds and fuses have been
checked you may have an alternator problem.

Here is the voltage range you should look for: all accessories off 12.5-14.5
volts. All accessories on 11.5-13.0. These tests should be conducted with
the engine idle speed at the specified 775 RPM.

If you have DeLorean World #16 Fall 1987 go to page 32 for pictures and a
detailed description on ground fault diagnosis and repair.

If by chance, god forbid, you have the original Ducellier; forget all of the
above voltage tests!

"We're here to help you" See you in Cleveland!
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Rooney <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 12:01 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: More Power...


> I have the same problem as well, especialy at night when I have the
> A/C on plus my head lights at an idle. I then drop to about 11.5V,
> and everything goes dim. When I hit the gas power increases, but
> only goes up to 13V. With the engine idling with no accesories on,
> the voltometer reads about 14V. I have the 90 amp Motorloa
> alternator, and the workshop manual says that normal operating range
> is between 13.5-15 volts, but it doesn't state wheather this readings
> are taken durring accessory operation or not. Either way, is this
> drop normal? The Duceller 80 amp alternators were not able to keep up
> with everything, but was the Motorola only put in to get the car by,
> or was it intended to fully "feed" the entire system?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Carson Clark <cnsandog_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > Have any of you noticed a large draw on your Voltometer when you
> turn on the AC?  I have really noticed when I turn on the AC that
> some times at Idle the meter reads under 13 VOlts.  Is that pretty
> common?  Have any of you purchased a better alternator, or another
> fix?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > C
> >
> > VIN 16367






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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 10:11:34 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: door hinge shims

Hello List,
    I put a new door on my DMC last month and I am not able to open it 
because it hits the fiberglass t section(the roof under the t panel)  The T- 
panel has been off my car because the door would bend the edge right off of 
it.  I adjusted the 4 door mounting bolts to their full length and that is 
not even coming close to helping me.  

    I need to add a verticle shim that goes in between the back of the hinge 
and the fiberglass piece.  the height of the door looks good, just needs to 
be pulled outward a littel.  I see that my drivers side door allready has a 
shim and it works perfect.  My passenger side does not have a shim behind the 
hinge mount.  I just got my torsion bar back on and it looks like it is 
coming off again.  has anyone done this shim opperation before?  I have read 
the manual but it is not super clear.  Do I just release the torsion bar and 
losen the mounting bolts and tap a shim into place?  and where can I get 
these?  dmc joe, do you have them available?

Thanks list

David
#2496-Looking for passenger side rear fender,minor dings ok, no creases



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 10:30:49 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Fascia, Best offer takes it

Hello List,
    I am selling the rear fascia that came off of my car.  It has two 4-5 
inch tears but is very straight.  The tears are clean and could be repaired 
very easily with some type of glue.  I have 3 pictures available.  You can 
view them at the below links or I can email them to you.  I need the garage 
space and this item must go.  make me an offer and I will probably take it.  
shipping will be less than $20.00 in the U.S.  I will take parts in trade if 
you like.

http://new.8op.com/artith/bumper.jpg  
http://new.8op.com/artith/bumper4.jpg  
http://new.8op.com/artith/bumper3.jpg

Thanks for your time.  I really dont want to throw it away when somebody 
could use it.  Iwould have but someone gave me a good deal on another one.

thank you
David
DMC#2496




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 12:08:09 -0400
From: Printed Drinkware Company <drinkware_at_dml_lweb.net>
Subject: Canada to Cleveland / souvenir

I'm leaving London, Ontario to Detroit to Cleveland  on Thursday, June 15, 4 -5 PM.  
Anyone driving from Toronto  etc., want to join me for a convoy of Deloreans?  I 
should be in Detroit around 7PM,   but if a group of cars are leaving earlier from the 
Detroit area, I could leave earlier to meet them.  Please advise. 

I will have a limited supply of beautiful custom printed, clear 16 oz. plastic tumblers ( 
top rack dishwasher safe).  Delorean logo -wings up - on one side, "Cleveland 2000" 
on the other. My cost has gone up,  so they will be $ 5.00 each or a set of 4 _at_dml_ $ 
4.50 each.  I will be at the trade show area --- first come first served --- while they 
last.

Marvin 
#4239
drinkware _at_dml_lweb.net




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:34:04 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>
Subject: RE: ALTERNATOR

... IS THERE ANYONE THAT KNOWS OF A RELATIVELY INEXPENSIVE ALTERNATOR SWAP?

I used a stock GM alternator and it fit nearly perfectly.  I modified the
alternator mounting bracket slightly.  The bad news is that I'm short on
details and since I'm in process of moving I'll be a while b4 I can check it
out.  I got the info needed to make the swap from the DML and you can check
the archives for more info.

NK




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:09:08 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: Please Take Survey

After my dimmer control went a few weeks back, I started to do some
research on replacing it.  I tried the obvious DMC part suppliers and
found it was a "rare" part, priced at $125!

To make a long story short, I did not find any off the shelf parts that
would work.  I did however find a few possibilities for replacement that
may or may not require some modification to work correctly. 

While I had my old/broken one apart to take measurements and such, I
realized that I could probably fix the old one with some epoxy.  There
was no way I was going to have a replacement by the Ohio show...  The
old switch is back together now and seems to work OK on the meter, I
have not yet installed it back in the car.

So, with my problem solved (I hope) I wondered how much effort I should
put in to finding a replacement.  So, please take the poll below so I
can see what the interest is.

http://www.egroups.com/surveys/dmcnews?id=190586

Thanks!



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Message: 24
Date: 26 May 2000 18:03:29 -0000
From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: New poll for dmcnews


Enter your vote today!  Check out the new poll for the dmcnews 
group:


A survey for DML subscribers who DO NOT 
own DeLoreans!  How has reading the DML 
changed your impression of DeLoreans?  
Asked by Mike Substelny. 

  o Reading the DML has convinced me never to buy a DeLorean. 
  o Reading the DML discourages me from purchasing a DeLorean, but the jury is still out. 
  o The DML has frightened me, but I still want a DeLorean. 
  o The DML has has no influence on my thinking at all. 
  o Reading the DML has increased my desire for a DeLorean. 
  o Without the DML, there is no way in the world that I would even consider buying a DeLorean! 


To vote, please visit the following web page:

http://www.egroups.com/polls/dmcnews 

Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are 
not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the eGroups 
web site listed above.

Thanks!

 




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 13:35:52 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Can't Drive Fifty-Five? Results

Results:

My speedo works and I can keep my speed
under control. (when I choose to do so.)          8      47.06%

My speedo works, so I *know* that I drive
the way Chuck Yeager flies. (If you don't
like it, get yourself a Yugo.)                             7    41.18%

My speedo does not work. (I judge my
speed by the Doppler shift from my
headlights.)                                                     2
11.76%

(other answers had no reply)

Analysis:

While I posted the survey with tongue-in-cheek, the results are
interesting.  Apparently half of us do not care about speed limits!

Also, about 12% have non-functional speedometers.  If any of the parts
vendors are lurking, I suggest that you have a special sale on angle
drives when you come to Cleveland.  You could easily sell a dozen of
them.

BTW I would not be one of them.  My speedo works perfectly.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years




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