From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2000 7:03 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 75

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There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: AC Drain Tube (Was: unknown)
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

2. Re: that great smell o' gasoline.
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

3. Re: engine swaps
From: pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com

4. Re: FOG MACHINES
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 01:07:25 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: AC Drain Tube (Was: unknown)

I recently had the same problem, but to access the drain hose you 
don't have to remove the wheel. Turn the steering wheel full left and 
then push the car foward to take the tension off the tire (otherwise 
it will push back slightly). Look behind the PASSENGER side front 
wheel. From here you should be able to see underneath the car far 
enough to inspect the hose, and to blow it out w/a air compressor. 
The tube runs down between the fiberglass underbody and the chassis, 
which appears to be a tight fit. Look for the end of the hose around 
the bottom of the gas tank (where the outside cover plate is), from 
here, follow the chassis back to 
where the fiberglass curves in and runs paralel with the chassis. 
Around this area is where the end of the hose should stick out. If 
you can blow it out with 
compressed air, this will clear out any blockage. Cobwebs were the 
culprit in our case. Reaching in and feeling around at the very 
least, you should be able to find the hose if you can't see it. If 
you still have no luck, try pulling up the carpet on the passenger 
side to make sure that there is a hose that is connected. To see a 
picture to get a better understanding, refer to page 5 of Service 
Bulletin # ST-33 >WaterLeaks< (availible from the "Downloadable 
Files" section of the DMC News website). For future reference in case 
you need it this time, or for future leak repairs; G.E. Clear 
Silicone II has been the best I've found to use. It doesn't shrink, 
and on the label it specificly states that it can be used on glass, 
rubber, fiberglass, and Stainless Steel. Hope this helps.

-Robert
vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Try removing the front wheel, that may give you better access to it 
from
> the bottom.
> 
> Michael R Dixon wrote:
> > 
> > I've done what you suggested and could not find the line.  Any 
other
> > suggestions?
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_d...>
> > > On my car, I took the spare tire out, and removed the fuel tank 
access
> > > panel.
> > >
> > > On the driver side, it runs on the outside of the frame rail.
> <SNIP>




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 01:34:16 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: that great smell o' gasoline.

Remove the access panel to the gas tank. Leave it off and fill up the 
D. Top off your tank by filling it up the hose that connects to the 
inlet restricter. Watch the seal around the fuel sending unit and 
check to see if gas leaks out. Or you can go straight to tightening 
it. Another thing, are you using an old stock gas cap, or one of the 
tight fitting crossover parts? Had this prolem on my car too. The 
gasoline got so hot durring stop & go traffic that it was able to 
expand and build up enough pressure to push through the seal on a 
loose fitting sending unit. Check these items & let me know what 
happens.

-Robert
vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com, Cliff Andrews <fen2k_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I have another question for DMC think tank :)
> 
> I get a very prominate gas smell in my cabin. 
> 
> I really have no idea why.  I get it with a full tank
> of gas and with the needled stitting on empty.  I
> mostly get it in stop and go traffic.. cruising.. its
> fine.  
> 
> I have tried to remedy this by tightening the clamp
> around the boot of the fuel pump.  I checked it and
> its still leaking alittle gas.. but from my intuition
> i dont think this is the cause.  Any clues? 
> 
> Clifton Andrews
> #10854
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
> http://photos.yahoo.com




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 12:50:35 EDT
From: pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: engine swaps

Thanks for all the response!!!!!  As far as the 4.3 swap is concerned, did 
you all use the stock transaxle??? If so, how does it bolt up (any 
adapter?)?How much torque will it handle?? I do want to use a fuel injected 
engine but with no power adders(turbos,nitrous,etc.)
                            Jack                                                
                                6639



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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 07:18:31 PDT
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FOG MACHINES


Chemical foggers use very pure glycol and occasionally mixed down 
w/distilled water. The fogger takes a small amount of fluid and converts it 
into vapor form in a heat exchanger at at temp ~190-250 degrees (dependent 
on altitude and the volume of the fogger).

The newly converted glycol then becomes a suspension in the air, being 
slightly thicker than air, but having a almost equal gas weight. The glycol 
itself is very thin and it takes high concentrations for long periods of 
time before you will see or notice a visible residue.

The glycol itself converts back to liquid form once it cools down, which is 
why (besides air dilution) you have to run a fog machine again to refill a 
room.

There are a few different types of glycol (_at_dml_different water concentrations) 
There is the standard concentration, the Stage/Theatre concentration (10%) 
and the TSX (15%). TSX is used in combination w/a regular ice or dry ice 
chiller to keep the fog close to the floor.
Care must be taken w/chilled fog becuase the fog picks up water molecules 
that make it heavier and keep it from expanding/diluting as fast, which can 
result in glycol buildups. (Basically the floor becomes a slip hazard).

Glycol is diluted using water, making it easy to clean off of non-porous 
surfaces, using just water, and slightly soapy water on the porous surfaces. 
Of course you probably will not notice any residue unless your vehicle is 
located w/3 foot of the NOZZLE of the fogger (where the fog is hottest) 
and/or is being bombarded w/fog over a period of days.

essentially the stuff is harmless, I've used the chilled fog on a rosewood 
dance floor, 2 shows a day for 2 weeks, w/nothing other than a slightly damp 
mop to clean it.

hope that helps,
dr c.

From: dongowler <dongowler_at_dml_mediaone.net>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] FOG MACHINES
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 08:39:56 -0500


Brian wrote;

I have been asked to allow my DMC to be used as the centerpiece at a
convention.  -- the contact man called me today and asked if
they could use a fog machine near the car.  He says it's the kind that
uses
chemicals and not dry ice to make the fog.  They want the doors to be
open
all evening.  My question to the group is his: do I let them use the fog

machine or do I tell them no way?  Does anyone know if these kinds of
fog machines produce anything that might be harmful to the DeLorean's
interior or exterior?

I had my 82 presented in a convention several years ago and
they used a fog machine near the car to enhance it's entry to the
crowd.  All went spectacularly well and I have never noticed any effect
from the fog.  Go for it man!  Be sure to video it as well.

The Silver Fox
Vin #'s  01149 & 10788


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