From: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2000 9:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 76

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: engine swaps
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Re: Updated Service Manuals
From: aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Re: that great smell o' gasoline.
From: pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com

4. Re: Re: Delorean restoration project, need some tips!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

5. Re: cooling fans
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: T-Bar Discoloration
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

7. where should I put antenna?
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Automatic car washes? Pros/Cons?
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

9. JZD on Real T.V.
From: "Edward Raffenetti" <eddie5150_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Automatic car washes? Pros/Cons?
From: bluevelvet420_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: engine swaps
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com>

12. Ham Radio
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>

13. Re: Engine Cover help
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

14. RE: Luggage Rack
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

15. Dealers. No, not THAT kind........
From: "Matt Clark" <diashi_c_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Re: Updated Service Manuals coming?
From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist_at_dml_mindspring.com>

17. Re: Engine Cover help
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: Re: that great smell o' gasoline.
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc_at_dml_i-55.com>

19. Re: that great smell o' gasoline.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: that great smell o' gasoline.
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Re: Updated Service Manuals coming?
From: "Joe Sorrentino" <joeytino_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Thick Side Stripes
From: John Yeoman <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: DMC and fog machine
From: VOYAGER1058_at_dml_aol.com

24. used carpet WANTED
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

25. A/T shifting problems
From: Cliff Wallace <cliftonw_at_dml_telepath.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 23:24:03 EDT
From: sand131_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: engine swaps

Delorean World Vol. 5 #4 (Spring 1988 issue) has the story reprinted from 
Sports car Illustrated showing what they call "The Worlds Fastest DeLorean." 
Built by Gale Banks of Gale Banks Turbo fame this 3.8 liter twin turbo Buick 
powered D makes 525 HP.
Ralph
Vin1606
Since 1985



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 23:31:28 EDT
From: aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Updated Service Manuals

I would be interested in a service manual, provided it was clear to 
understand.
I am not a mechanic, so anything would help.

Dave  #2578



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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 23:36:46 EDT
From: pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: that great smell o' gasoline.

I recently had to replace the line on the back of my(fuel) accumulator 
because it was rotted and leaking. I hear this is a common problem. the 
reason I tell this is because the accumulator is located directly under the 
center console (arm rest portion) and may be leaking fuel. It may be worth a 
look.                                                                           
        Jack                                                                    
            6639



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 00:28:10 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean restoration project, need some tips!

Dan,

You are correct about the fact that the Ducelliar alternator has been in the
car for 20 years, so why replace it? I'm very confident that the reason this
alternator is still functioning is because it was never operated at full
load for an extended period of time.

Here is the scenario for failure of the Ducelliar 80 Amp alternator.

Hot summer day driving in downtown stop and go traffic at dawn while it is
raining. You have almost every electrical item in operation. AC on max (both
cooling fans on), wipers on, head lights on, and maybe the radio. At this
point the system is pulling more amperage  the Ducelliar can put out. The
"skimpy" diode bridge is dangerously close to the exhaust manifold causing a
"load dump condition" which further reduces the output voltage. You start to
notice the volt meter dropping below 11 volts and ZAP! Your alternator
failure warning lamp illuminates.

If you can avoid this situation your Decelliar my be around for a few more
years.

"We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland!

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: <danh_at_dml_nwlink.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 12:58 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean restoration project, need some tips!


> Thanks for the info, I was under the impression that the in-line
> fuses were behind the radio, I guess I'll have to take a closer look.
>
> About the alternator, it's the original Ducellier which everybody
> keeps telling me to replace.  However I find it a little hasty to
> replace a part that's been working fine for nearly 20 years. Since I
> plan on putting in an aftermarket stereo system at some point I'll
> probably end up replacing it with a more powerful alternator, but I
> think I stick with the Ducellier until then.
>
> -Dan





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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 00:45:10 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: cooling fans

Brian,

The problem is probably at the fan fail module socket, fan relay socket, or
the circuit breaker. With the cool fan switch (otterstadt) jumped, check and
see if you have 12 volts at the heavy brown/orange wire leading the  blue
socket.

Let me know the result.

Here are the answers to your other questions. The cooling fans receive
ground through the wiring harness.

The fan rotation is such that air moves from the front of the car to the
rear.

12V cooling fan power is supplied through two separate feed wires which are
part of the front wiring harness. We have no record of any type of failure
with this wire.

"We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland!

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Lynn Metz <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] cooling fans


> DMC Joe:
> Sorry, I took a few days to respond, I was trying various things.  Here is
> what I have found:  (1)the temp switch and the switch from the A/C both
seem
> to be working fine.  (2)The two fuses are both good.  (3)I get power to
the
> fuses when I jump the temp switch or turn on A/C.  (4)The fans work when
12
> Volts are put to them.  There is no power to the plug that goes into the
> fan. (5) there is no power prior to the connector that has the built in
> condensor. (6) the wires are b/g that leave the fuse block area (as noted
in
> manual).
>
> From this I guess that there is a break in a wiring somewhere.  However,
the
> car was just sitting in the garage and the cooling fans worked one day and
> not the next.  Also, it appears that each fan has its own power lead.  So,
> it seems odd that while just sitting both power wires could "go bad".
>
> QUESTIONS:  Do both fans share the same ground? If so, losing the ground
> could kill both fans.  If so, where should I look for the problem?  How
can
> I check to see that voltage is making it out of the blue socket, after the
> fuses but before the fan connector?   Is there an area where any of these
> wires commonly get pinched that I should check first?  Finally, when the
> fans do come on, which direction should they spin?  Do they push air over
> the radiator or do they pull air through the radiator?
> All help is appreciated.
> Thanks, Brian 16584
>
> >
> >The first item to check is to be sure that you have 12 volts at the
cooling
> >fan (blue) socket and by-pass fuses. Let me know the result of your test.
> >
> >"We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland!
> >
> >DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
> >Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>
>
> > > Well, I now have one of the normal problems - my cooling fans.  It
> >appears that they stopped coming on yesterday.  (There were fine 2 days
> >ago.)  I just replaced the temp. sensor and I know it is OK.  The fans
used
> >to come on before the temp gauge hit half way.  Yesterday, it went over
> >half way up. When I jumped the switch, I could hear a clicking (assume
> >this is the relay trying to engage) but the fans won't come on.  Then,
when
> >I plug the wires back onto the switch, I hear the clicking again.  So,
the
> >switch is fine.  My car has the wired modification upgrade with 2 fuses
(no
> >fanzilla). The fuses are good.  Where should I start?  Can I check for
> >voltage at the fans themselves?  I don't think both fans went bad at the
> >same time.  What else could it be besides a wiring problem?  Need to get
> >this fixed before Cleveland.






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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 00:53:34 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: T-Bar Discoloration

The Scotch-Bright pad will not cause deep scratches, therefore it is safe to
use. As far as where the brown came from, I'll have to leave that question
to one of the metal experts on the list. If you check into the very involved
process to manufacture the bars (DeLorean World Magazine) you may find a
clew.

"We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland!

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
To: DMC News list <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 8:18 AM
Subject: [DML] T-Bar Discoloration


> Hi Joe,
>
> Correct me if I am wrong but isn't taking something abrasive like a
> scotch-brite pad something that is not recommended for the T-bars. It
> was my understanding that due any scratches would develop into fractures
> that will eventually lead the bars snapping.  I'm game to try it as
> trying to mask off the area and paint them isn't my idea of fun,  but I
> just wanted to put this question out there.  I know that a Scotch-Brite
> pad is no where near as abrasive as sandpaper but is it soft enough to
> not damage the t-bar?
>
> The other question is, why would this area turn brown like rust?
>
> Thanks for the advise
>
> Tom   #05732
>
> DMC Joe Wrote:
>
> The "barber pole" strips on the door torsion bar are a stress patterns
> left
> by the "ten revolution twist in liquid nitrogen manufacturing process".
> The
> lines are easily removed with a scotch-brite pad.
>
> "We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland!
>
> DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 21:49:04 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: where should I put antenna?

Hello,
    I am slowly starting to put my interior back in.  the previous owner had 
a put an automatic retractable antenna in the trunk.  This was not a good 
place for it because not much fits in the trunk with the antenna extended.  
where should I relocate this? It says "electronics" on it, has anyone ever 
heard of this model or brand?.  what would be the best location?  someone 
said I don't have the correct piece in my window louver to mount it there.  
Is there any other odd place I could put it?  perhaps come out of the big 
rear louver at an angle, or would that not work.  I really dont know much 
about antennas.  I just want to get it in soon so I can listen to music while 
my car goes back together:)  any ideas?  I want it to look cool when it folds 
away.
Thanks list
dave
#2496



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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 07:30:41 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Automatic car washes? Pros/Cons?

I don't think that ground clearance should be a problem. The "stop" 
sensor in the car washes I've seen isn't to high up, and the rails on 
both sides are wide enough to accomidate the rear wheels. Not my 
finest moment, but the first night I was driving the D, I wasn't 
familiar with the clearance & turning radius. To make a long story 
short, I ended up driving over the curb with both wheels. The 
chassis, suspension, and even the lowest part of the car, the anti-
sway bars, were all unscathed. 

> Never having done it, but having spent a lot of time crawling under 
> the car, I'd be concerned about ground clearance and/or tearing up 
> the frame coating, especially on a lowered car. 

After having leaks, and seeing how to repair them no DeLorean should 
leak water. It's always curable. But if your car is mainly for show, 
or never gets wet, it's nothing to worry about. But this does raise a 
thought... Maybe for the daily driver category the judges could throw 
in some extras such as a water splash test!

-Robert
vin 6585

> And you'd certainly find the door leaks. 
<SNIP>
> Shoot - I've never even hose-washed my car, just Windex or SS 
> cleaner. (Obviously not a daily driver.)
> 
> Dave Swingle




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 08:00:11 GMT
From: "Edward Raffenetti" <eddie5150_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: JZD on Real T.V.

I saw the whole segment. It began with the hidden camera video of JZD in the 
hotel room, shortly before his arrest. They gave a brief synopsis of the 
video, something about Larry Flint helping JZD clear his name, and a brief 
history of the company. Then, at the end of the segment, they said that JZD 
lives in seclusion in New Jersey. Maybe it's an old segment that was re-run.

~Ed Raffenetti
http://eraffenetti.tripod.com

"Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas_at_dml_worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>The only things I saw was some footage of Larry Flynt when
>he was arrested, some DMC-12's in a warehouse (factory?),
>and and interview with JZD at what appeared to be a party.
>Don't know who the reporter was, but they asked JZD how he
>felt now that he was aquitted of all charges. >I figured
>that the list would be clogged with info about the segment,
>but I was wrong! I've looked on Real T.V.'s >website, but I
>can't find any contact phone #'s or email adresses to contact
>anyone. Did anyone else see this?

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 05:17:32 EDT
From: bluevelvet420_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Automatic car washes? Pros/Cons?

In a message dated 6/2/00 6:23:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
delorean_at_dml_usfamily.net writes:

<< The touchless car washes are great >>


what is a touchless car wash??


greg



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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 09:40:31 -0500
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com>
Subject: Re: engine swaps

I'm using the stock tranny.  If you have the auto, you definitely want to
get it beefed up.  Don Stegar did the work to the one I got.  It bolts up
the same way but using a part DeLorean, part Chevy bellhousing.  The stock
tranny without any mods is rated at 250 HP but I wouldn't trust it.
Hopefully one day, fundage allowing, I'll be able to get more than 250 HP
out of my engine setup.  With what I have now, I should be fairly close to
220 to 240 hp without any mods to the engine.  The tranny I got was actually
used with a 350 so it should easily hold up to the Vortec V6.  I've got ALOT
of pics of the swap and the engine is actually sitting in the car now
(FINALLY!!) but I just haven't updated my website yet.  I'll try and do that
soon.


Thanks,


Duke
www.geocities.com/at88mph_1999



----- Original Message -----
From: <pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] engine swaps


> Thanks for all the response!!!!!  As far as the 4.3 swap is concerned, did
> you all use the stock transaxle??? If so, how does it bolt up (any
> adapter?)?How much torque will it handle?? I do want to use a fuel
injected
> engine but with no power adders(turbos,nitrous,etc.)
>                             Jack
>                                 6639
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 08:05:22 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>
Subject: Ham Radio

Thanks to all the respondents to my query re installing Ham Radio gear in our DeLorean.....several hams answered and also some who were interested in installing CB rigs, Laptop computers and even one non  hand held GPS!   I was surprised at the interest.  

Of course none of us want to deface or detract from the original car in any way so there are challenges.     For starters, I sort of stole a commercial idea in an older DeLorean World magazine of a little dash mounted console that was velcroed in a neat symetrical location over the central console....I built a light weight plywood form that tapers toward the front and is about six inches high at the rear (facing you).  I had an upholsterer pad and cover it with naugahyde which matches the dash covering perfectly....he even put "french" seams on the leading edges just like on the DeLorean.   Although of course it is not "original" by any means, it matches the car perfectly and removes easily with no marks....Actually I have used it for several purposes....I made it so the front panel is depressed about an inch and can put in different panels easily.  I sometimes use it for a little color TV that I have and other times have used it for my 2 meter radio and also a low band radio that has a remoteable front panel.   It is a little challenge to get 12 volts to it direct from the battery, but not difficult.   

The ideas of mounting gear on a panel just laying on the package shelf are good too, with close access to the battery.

A Mag mount antenna is useless on our stainless steel bodies.  I thought possibly a 4 magnet job over the T bar would reach thru to some steel in its magnetism, but no such luck.

I am looking into a trunk lip mounted fold down antenna for the body frame around the engine louvre cover.   I have one in my car that folds down out of sight into the trunk.

On other cars I have built a support concealed under the rear bumper area that slips in, like a trailer hitch...I actually used a small trailer hitch receptacle for this purpose....with low band antennas this requires the usual "fish line" tied to a couple places forward for support at speed.  All of this is quickly removable.  This is necessary as ham antennas usually have big loading coils that present a big resistance to forward movement and tend to lean back a long ways!    A two meter antenna probably would not need this "guying".

I have bored a hole in the center of the roof of many a brand new car, but not in the DeLorean!!   That location makes for a top notch ground plane in all directions.     We hams are dedicated to our hobby as much as DeLorean owners are!  

It is difficult to get a good ground plane on our cars so we need to resort to artifical grounds for this purpose.  Boats that are made of fibreglass use this idea.    

Like someone mentioned, there used to be and probaby still is, a power antenna that worked on both AM/FM and CB.   This might be a solution for an antenna for a ham that wanted 10 meters, as this is close to the CB freqs.    

FWIW dept and thanks to everyone for the input.

    Murray W7NSU
    Vin: 05962  Lic: DMC-XII
    Washington State       


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 10:39:53 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Engine Cover help

You don't say if it just lays there because of adjustment, or because
something is missing, so here is the complete description.

Both the engine cover and the louvers have latches. The engine cover latch
is controlled by cable from the passenger compartment. The louvers just
have a simple latch that snaps into the u-shaped metal bracket that extends
up out of the engine cover. A previous owner may have broken and/or removed
this bracket. If it is in place, the louver must be adjusted to the proper
position for the latch to catch. Otherwise it will just lay there. This
adjustment is done on the louver hinges and can take quite a while the
first time you do it, as it involves loosening the bolts and moving things
a small fraction of an inch, tighten, and test. Then repeat until it works
right. It took me over an hour the first time, but only takes a few minutes
now.

The louver latch assembly is show in section 8:4:3 of the parts manual
(downloadable from the DMC-News site), and the catch for it on the engine
cover is #16 in 8:4:4.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 02:00 PM 6/2/00 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 6/2/00 7:25:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com writes:
>
><< I managed to get the
> louvers to re-latch the right way (and quit rubbing little holes on my new
> paint job). >>
>
>My louver doesn't latch.  Just lays there by gravity.  How did you make it 
>latch?
>
>-Wayne
>11174
>



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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 10:54:09 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: RE: Luggage Rack

I haven't found any wedge shaped cases, but I recently bought some
waterproof soft-side luggage for our Miata that looks as though it will
work nicely.

You can see it at:  http://www.performancebuyers.com/Items.asp?Area=luggage
 and look at both the #13002 Cargo bag, and the 13007 Touring luggage for
the complete description. The two are the same except that the cargo bag is
one BIG bag and the Touring luggage is two smaller bags that fasten
together (his and hers).

We bought the "Touring Luggage" that consists of two bags that, in the case
of the Miata, "mount securely to trunk lid with or without a rack using an
8-point mounting system. Uses car cover fabric on a mounting pad to protect
your car's finish. Overall dimensions of the two bags fastened together is
approx. 38" x 18" x 9"." (I paraphrased some of the advertising for this)

I plan to just strap the bags to the DeLorean luggage rack, and I expect
that it will work just fine. I haven't decided if I'll use the straps that
were included with the luggage, or just use bungies. But in either case,
the luggage itself is very well built, and looks extremely water resistant.
We've had it in rain storms now about 3 times with absolutely no leakage.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 01:17 PM 6/2/00 -0600, you wrote:
>
>If anyone finds a source for the wedge shaped cases, be sure to let the rest
>of us know!
>
>Michael
>



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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 16:53:29 -0000
From: "Matt Clark" <diashi_c_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Dealers. No, not THAT kind........

Hi group.

According to the 'Live The Dream' posters, there were 345 DeLo 
dealers. 

Has anyone got a photo of a dealership with a DMC on display? 
The reason I ask is becuase it's part of the website that I'm trying 
to make.

So if anyone has any dealership photos, mailing them to me 
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Whats the general impression of Stainless Steel Illusion?

I would like the book, but is it worth the 100+ that I've seen
for 
it?

Thanks,

Matt




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 12:57:08 -0400
From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Updated Service Manuals coming?


>What do you think, list members?  Who's interested?  What should such a new 
>manual cost?  (Is there sufficient sale potential to cover the cost of 
>publicartion.)  Speak up!
>
>-Wayne 
>11174

I would readily pay $75 to $100 dollars for a good, comprehensive, updated
manual. I do most of my own work and am always concerned about the
completeness and accuracy of the current manual for myself or the carefully
chosen mechanics I use.

Steve
#3542




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 16:58:28 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Cover help

The easiest way to align the latch is by adjusting the engine cover striker
bar (parts manual 8/4/4 #16). If you are unable to achieve latching with
this adjustment you will have to adjust the plate & stud (8/4/3 #16) at the
sunshade. Be aware that this adjustment will effect the entire alignment of
the sunshade.

Writes note: Except for concourse judging the latching mechanism has no
practical use. The sunshade will hold its position by gravity and does not
require the latch to be operational.

"We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland!

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: <deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Engine Cover help


> In a message dated 6/2/00 7:25:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> michael.babb_at_dml_mindspring.com writes:
>
> << I managed to get the
>  louvers to re-latch the right way (and quit rubbing little holes on my
new
>  paint job). >>
>
> My louver doesn't latch.  Just lays there by gravity.  How did you make it
> latch?
>
> -Wayne
> 11174





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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2000 21:10:47 -0500
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc_at_dml_i-55.com>
Subject: Re: Re: that great smell o' gasoline.

Could someone please send me the link to Lee's message board for the limited
edition.

I've been waiting very patiently and i still haven't heard anything from Lee
about my kit.  Whenever I ask him about the kit he gets angry but I was
under the impression that these kits were completed in january.
----- Original Message -----
From: <pressurerat_at_dml_cs.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: that great smell o' gasoline.


> I recently had to replace the line on the back of my(fuel) accumulator
> because it was rotted and leaking. I hear this is a common problem. the
> reason I tell this is because the accumulator is located directly under
the
> center console (arm rest portion) and may be leaking fuel. It may be worth
a
> look.
>         Jack
>             6639
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>




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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 17:04:02 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: that great smell o' gasoline.

Cliff,

Your gas odor problem may be caused by the fuel filler cap not sealing
properly. This is a common problem and is caused by shrinking sealing
components due to age. You can purchase on over the counter cap for under $5
at your local auto parts store.

"We're here to help you"; See you in Cleveland!

DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.

----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Andrews <fen2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 1:41 PM
Subject: [DML] that great smell o' gasoline.


> Hi everyone!
>
> I have another question for DMC think tank :)
>
> I get a very prominate gas smell in my cabin.
>
> I really have no idea why.  I get it with a full tank
> of gas and with the needled stitting on empty.  I
> mostly get it in stop and go traffic.. cruising.. its
> fine.
>
> I have tried to remedy this by tightening the clamp
> around the boot of the fuel pump.  I checked it and
> its still leaking alittle gas.. but from my intuition
> i dont think this is the cause.  Any clues?
>
> Clifton Andrews
> #10854





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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 17:59:14 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: that great smell o' gasoline.

The sending unit may not be seated properly.  Loosen the cap and twist the 
sending unit a bit it to see if it will sit lower, then retighten snugly.

-Wayne, 11174



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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 00:05:00 GMT
From: "Joe Sorrentino" <joeytino_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Updated Service Manuals coming?



Wayne wrote regarding an updated service manual:

(snip)
What do you think, list members?  Who's interested?  What should such  a new 
manual cost?  (Is there sufficient sale potential to cover the cost of 
publication.)  Speak up!

My thoughts, for what they are worth:

As I work at a GM plant - yes, it's true - they have stepped away from paper 
service manuals. We just finished installing an on line version where the 
service guys log in, select from a list the area they are interested in 
(Body, electric, etc.) and all schematics, disassembly instructions, part 
numbers and service advisories required are listed for immediate retrieval 
and printing. The benefit of this is the obvious savings on printing costs, 
and eases future updates and having to distribute them.

In our case I don't think an on line site as such would be economically 
feasible (then again never underestimate the power of DeLorean owners), but 
such a design could conceivably fit onto a CD as a version of the original 
one was a number of years ago, but this would feature all of the 
improvements, service bulletins, and any pertinent information that has been 
gathered over the years from various DMC owners. I, for one would purchase 
one in a hearbeat. One thing I've learned - of many -  from being a reader 
of the DML for the past two years is the frustratingly incomplete state of 
the original service manual.

I can go into more detail in how it's set up at work if anyone is 
interested. Feel free to email me directly.

Best regards to all.

Joe Sorrentino
VIN (sadly no, but soon to be owner of a certified model by Lee.)
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 17:21:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Yeoman <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thick Side Stripes

Hey, I was wondering where you could get a hold of
some thick side stripes and how much they cost.

John

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com



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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 21:33:00 EDT
From: VOYAGER1058_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMC and fog machine

Brian,

    I agree with Matthew...if he has been through it Im sure that it is ok 
for you and your Delorean



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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 22:11:02 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: used carpet WANTED

Hello list,
    I have completely gutted my interior.  just a fiberglass body and 
steering wheel.  I didnt want to scimp out so I went all out and tore out 
everything including the electrical compartment(to repaint metal securing 
brackets), carpets, binnacle, leather, rear wall etc.  I am still cleaning 
everything and it will start going back in soon.  I want it ready for the 
July Bricklin show so I need to get going on it.
    All the carpet pieces in my car are unusable do to rain damage, spills, 
rips, and fading that happend before I bought it.  somehow all the leather 
managed to stay perfect:)  I am looking for used carpet for a De Lorean with 
black interior.  if anyone has a parts car or a few pieces laying around 
please contact me.  I will buy separate pieces or a whole lot.  They are for 
DMC #2496 that has a black interior.

Thank you List,
dave
#2496



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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000 21:34:13 -0500
From: Cliff Wallace <cliftonw_at_dml_telepath.com>
Subject: A/T shifting problems

Hello, all.  I've got one of those wonderfully built Automatic
Transmissions that are known for their Computer Governor problems.
I had the computer replaced in '97 as well as the cooler lines and some
leaky seals.  About a year later to the present, the computer likes to
constantly downshift when I slow the car down to 30 MPH or whenever I
approach a red light or stop sign.  The computer does not downshift when
I cruise at or around 30 MPH, only when I slow down to this speed.  This
irritation occurs only when the car is warmed up.  Say about 20 minutes
of driving time in the summer.  The A/T fluid is fresh and full.  It
sounds as if the computer is overheating.  If it is, then does that mean
the A/T cooler lines are not doing their job?  Anybody have a similar
problem or fix?
Thanks

Cliff W.
3773


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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