From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 381
Date: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 11:53 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Battery Straps.
From: "Steve Rubano" <>

2. Re: DMC engine upgrades (and AZ event)
From: "Steve Rubano" <>

3. Headlight Problem

4. Re: Re: Battery Straps.
From: "DMC Joe" <>

5. Re: Shills (was: Aftermarket Angle Drive Replacement?)
From: Marc A Levy <>

6. Batteries for DeLoreans (long as usual)
From: "Walter" <>

7. Re: Shills and "cheapie" dictionaries
From: James Espey <>

8. Re: Re: Battery Straps.
From: Stephen Jarvis <>

9. Re: Headlight Problem

10. Sun-Star die-cast DeLorean update
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <>

11. Re: Delorean Clock - modification
From: "Danrc30 " <>

12. Re: [Computer Modeling...]
From: james sawyer <>

13. [humor] engine upgrades Stage Five
From: "Walter" <>

14. Re: Battery Straps.
From: Josh Haldeman <>

15. Re: Headlight Problem
From: Dick & Leslie Ryan <>

16. Engine Problems
From: "Andrei Cular" <>

17. ADMIN: Upcoming eGroups/Yahoo Merge
From: "Dave Swingle" <>

18. Is EVERYTHING copyrighted? (was: Battery Straps)
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <>

19. Just wierd...
From: "Danrc30 " <>

20. Re: Engine Problems

21. RE: DMC engine upgrades (and AZ event)
From: James Espey <>

22. Delorean on ebay - in Poway, CA
From: David Cox <>

23. Fwd: Fw: Delorean for sale

24. Auto Trans permanently in neutral

25. Re: Engine Problems
From: "Robert Rooney" <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:08:56 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <>
Subject: Re: Battery Straps.

I have to agree with John. I have a Jeep and I used to go off-roading 
ALLOT. I was replacing batteries every two years at most. Since I 
stopped (no time anymore), with the same Jeep I've been able to keep 
batteries up to 4 years at most. Yes same type and brand of battery 
was used, Interstate. Even if you strap it, bolt it, wedge it or glue 
it in, it will still take allot of abuse. Again, if you get a Gel 
Cell Like the Optima Battery or the Exide one like Dick informed us 
on, they are made to handle the abuse and last allot longer. But then 
again, who goes off-roading with their D? That's IMHO.



Message: 2
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 21:55:57 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <>
Subject: Re: DMC engine upgrades (and AZ event)

Good luck in trying to find out the answer...I think it's a "secret" 
since I wrote a few emails to someone <ehem> and never got any 
response back. If you do find out...please share with us. For the 
cost they are charging it sound like they are installing a custom 
exhaust system, modifying the heads and performing "tweaks" (engine 
tuning) to other parts of the engine (fuel, air, etc). Custom exhaust 
alone is expensive, probably cost close to $3,000 or maybe even more 
depending on what material they are using. You can't bore the 
cylinder sleeves to a larger Diameter and if they replace the crank 
than I think the price would be allot higher. IMHO (until someone 
gives us facts), It's custom exhaust, Mods to the heads (porting, 
polishing, ect) performance cams and lifters and engine tuning to 
match the changes. Who knows I could be wrong but doing what I just 
described will bring the HP up considerably. I believe (from what I 
heard) that Phase two is suppose to consist of an electronic fuel 
injection system to replace the mechanical Bosch one. 

There was a performance engine build shop I used to go to who said 
that it wouldn't be that difficult to bring the engine up to the 
200+HP mark...I have to dig out their number again (and yes they 
build pro race engine and high performance stock engines...not a fly 
by night shop). I scraped the idea since I didn't have the money to 
invest into it and plus I wanted to keep the stock set up for now, 
that was 3 years ago. Come to think of it I think the owner of the 
shop owned a Delorean as a "colectors" piece, kept it stock though so 
it would be original (hence "colectors piece") so I am sure he has 
thought about it.

--- In, raddad_at_dml_c... wrote:
<SNIP> What I'd like to
> hear is just what the modifications consist of, and the offsets to 
such an
> engine "hop-up".
> I have no intention to try a do-it-yourself modification.  I'd just 
like to
> know what is involved in the modifications.  Obviously, the very
> restrictive exhaust is modified.  Perhaps the fuel management is 
> ala the approach described on the UK DMC club page.  However, they 
> only 167 HP.  So, is the engine ported and relieved?  Is there a cam
> modification?  Or???
> James?  Stephen?
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:04:05 -0000
Subject: Headlight Problem

   I am no electrical engineer. The headlights (low beam )on my 
delorean stay on all the time, unless I disconnect the dipped beam 
relay completely. Then only the high beams work. The relay works 
fine, so thats not the problem. Any Ideas as to what might be causing 
this? think I should take it to an electrical specialist?


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 19:35:31 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Battery Straps.

The battery strap diagram in question was published in an issue of DeLorean
World Magazine, to avoid a copyright infringement you will need to get their
permission before publication.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<>

----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Mueller <>
To: <>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Battery Straps.

> How about posting the picture/diagram in the vault or place it on the tech
> page.
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom Niemczewski <>
> To: <>
> Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 10:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Battery Straps.
> > Nick and others,
> > There is suppose to be ONE piece only!! I spent few hours trying to
> > out how it goes... and I had no idea. Then I called DMC Joe (thank you!)
> and
> > he email me a picture that shows exactly how it goes.
> > If anyone want that picure just let me know and I'll email it to you.
> > My email: tomcio'at'


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 15:40:34 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <>
Subject: Re: Shills (was: Aftermarket Angle Drive Replacement?)

Websters Says:

shill (shl) Slang n. 

One who poses as a satisfied customer or an enthusiastic gambler to dupe
bystanders into participating in a swindle.

How can you be a Shill James?  We know who you work for...

Bob on the other hand, I think he was kidding..  I suspect he was trying to make
a point. :)

Websters says:

No entry found for "kryptonite" in the dictionary.

James Espey wrote:
> At last, I'm not the only shill on the DML...   :)

> >You can buy a standard DeLorean angle drive from most DeLorean dealers.
> >PJ Grady's got one with KRYPTONITE gears made to LAST.
> >All the best,
> >Bob Zilla


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 21:13:32 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Batteries for DeLoreans (long as usual)

I bought my last traditional lead acid car battery.  I'm using the Optima
style from now on especially considering the extra bumpy ride my DeLorean
gives the battery.

To settle the shock & vibration debate concerning the life of a battery in a
DeLorean, here is my explanation:

The most common modes of failure in a lead acid car battery in the order
they are designed to happen are as follows:

1) Enough ash flakes off of the plates and settles in the reservoir in the
bottom filling it up to the point where it touches the bottom of the plates
shorting them out.  This usually starts off as an intermittent short to one
cell weakening the battery enough to give warning that it should be replaced
2) The plates 'wear' thin enough that they become brittle and break apart.
Shock and vibration play a major role in this.  So, yes, I suggest making
sure the battery sits on a foam pad and is held down well.  However in most
batteries, the capacity of the reservoir is purposefully made smaller than
the ability of the plates to dump sediment.  This is so that the battery
goes bad with some warning (plate shorted with sediment) rather than all at
once (broken plate causing a major short).  Rebuilders take advantage of
this design by washing out the sediment and adding fresh electrolyte.  When
a rebuilt battery fails, it is more apt to be from a broken plate than from
shorting sediment.
3) Over and prolonged discharge of the battery causes the plates to absorb
too much electrolyte causing them to swell, buckle, break and short
together.  Shock and vibration help this process along.

The two worst conditions to store a battery are:
1) In a discharged state.  If your DeLorean has a high current drain, weak
alternator or is otherwise allowed to sit long enough to deplete the battery
and you allow this to happen too often, you will significantly shorten the
life of your battery.  Don't think that a large battery will make up for a
weak Ducy alternator.  Storing a battery partially discharged will shorten
its life accordingly.
2) In a hot environment.  This is one clear advantage the DeLorean has over
most cars.  The worst place in any car to store the battery is where it will
unnecessarily absorb heat.  Most cars have the battery in the engine
compartment and even next to the radiator.  Sometimes they are wrapped in
foam, but this doesn't help much.  Some batteries are even filled with
styrofoam beads to help insulate it from heat.  This doesn't help much
either and makes them very messy to rebuild.

If you want to learn more, check out the back issues of Consumer Reports.
They are very educational.


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 23:07:26 -0500
From: James Espey <>
Subject: Re: Shills and "cheapie" dictionaries

Webster, Shmebster...from Ted's Tome of Twentieth Century Terms

shill (shl) Slang n.

One who poses as a satisfied customer, whether true or not, in order 
to boost sales or promote an enterprise.

I guess that's what I get for using a "cheapie" dictionary. :-)

No malice intended, BTW.


>Websters Says:
>shill (shl) Slang n.
>One who poses as a satisfied customer or an enthusiastic gambler to dupe
>bystanders into participating in a swindle.


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 07:01:16 -0500
From: Stephen Jarvis <>
Subject: Re: Re: Battery Straps.

I have replaced three batteries in two and a half years (Advanced Auto
Silvers). The same brand is in my IHC Scout, Nissan ZX, and BMW and I have
had no problems at all with any of those. Without knowing of any other
reason for a "bad" battery, I can only assume the lack of straps in my
Delorean IS the problem. 

I had been blaming the Ducellier alternator, generally poor electrics on the
Delorean, or terrible luck. 

The Advanced Auto people have always tested and replaced them with little or
cost to me, but I expeienced that sudden "no start" situation where it was
very inconvenient.

Would a neoprene matting or sorbathane pad provide some shock absorbancy or
would this set me up for a fire hazard should the battery leak?
Steve Jarvis


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 23:51:18 EST
Subject: Re: Headlight Problem

Jay, Since you know the relay is working fine, You more than likley have a 
bad headlight switch. If you can take it out and sent it to me I can probably 
fix it. It has a slippery little mechanism in it.
John Hervey


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:26:02 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <>
Subject: Sun-Star die-cast DeLorean update

Here is an update on the Sun-Star die-cast DeLoreans as provided to me by
Lee Seiler, who's been assisting them in the design of the new 16th scale

Production is waiting for help to come up with a way to get the stainless
finish right. 

From what they tell me, they don't seem to be able to get the panels to
match with the metal they use for the casting. The finish just does not look
right and they can't do any hand finishing in the final production. 

I explained how the real finish is applied to the DeLorean and how owners
maintain the finish by hand. 

They has asked me to accept several cars and some parts and come up with a
way to get the right finish during mfg in China. So I will be getting the
"hand-mades" and parts later this week and work out the finish problem. 

As you see, Lee is working with the manufacturer to develop the final
stainless finish for the die-cast DeLoreans. And yes, he's still working on
finishing the Ltd. Edition 1/24 scale model kits. 

I'm sure the finishing process will not hold up the production of the 1/16th
scale die-casts for long. These will be available from all the major
die-cast toy stores. (If I get a chance to see them I'll give everyone a
full report).

Ken Montgomery	Sacramento, CA  VIN #10911  'OUTTIME'
Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 04:08:54 -0000
From: "Danrc30 " <>
Subject: Re: Delorean Clock - modification


If I can get my hands on a digital camera, I promise I'll try and get 
some pics on the e-groups site. :-)


>    From: njp548_at_dml_a...
> Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Clock - modification


Message: 12
Date: 24 Jan 01 06:31:59 PST
From: james sawyer <>
Subject: Re: [Computer Modeling...]

Dear Sir,
Have I got the part for you.  The hinge that holds the engine cover.  The
reson for my concern is that I have been having troouble with mine.  It is a
strap hinge type with studs spot welded and then the hinge is bolted to the
body of the car.  The studs have a high rate of fail, they (the studs) pull
loose from hinge which causes the engine cover not to work properly.  My
solution has been to drill out a hole where the stud was welded and the tap
the hole, screw in another 10mm bolt with no head and the re-weld from top. 
seems to work.  Is this the type of part you would like to model?

Jim Sawyer
vin 4149

Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:46:38 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: [humor] engine upgrades Stage Five

For the sake of looking original, I have seen someone hollow out an old
Rolls Royce engine and use it to cover a custom-made engine underneath.
That sounds pretty excessive to me, but it is a good way to make an original
looking engine out of an antique that is not engineered well enough to
otherwise bother with.

Likewise, going very far out of your way to improve the DeLorean OEM engine
is like trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.  Just on what level
do you want your car to look original anyway?  If someone walks around a
DeLorean and does not notice a modern non-PRV engine hidden under a closed
engine cover, is that situation very far removed from someone making changes
inside of an OEM engine?  If the change is not readily visible, then is that
supposed to make it okay?  The only people you would impress are the ones
who know what an original engine is supposed to look like.  Quite frankly,
at non-DeLorean shows, people are disappointed to see the PRV engine in my
car.  It is not at all what they expect to see.  If I bring my car to a
major DeLorean event and never open my engine compartment, would anyone
really notice that I could have a cold fusion reactor in there?  Would it

Now with adding turbos to a DeLorean... What's the point of keeping the OEM
engine in there if you are going to cover it up with stuff that doesn't
belong on it?  Do you honestly think you are preserving something original
by drilling holes in it and replacing who-knows-what to add the turbo?  If
you really want to preserve the engine then put it in a crate.  Put a decent
more modern alloy block engine in your DeLorean and stop worshipping that
old PRV.  If you really want to impress the purists at shows with your
DeLorean then cover your modified engine with a hologram of an unaltered
one.  Soon we should have the technology to make this look real.  Would this
be very different from the situation concerning the hollowed out Rolls Royce
block?  I call this upgrade Stage Five.  ROTFLMAF!

Enough said?


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 12:04:51 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <>
Subject: Re: Battery Straps.

Steve and group,
    I had a similar problem about a year ago which I solved by unplugging the
caution lights on my driver's side door.  The problem with mine was that the
material surrounding the plunger switch had deteriorated, and made it so the
plate on the door didn't push the plunger in far enough to turn off the
lights.  I didn't notice the problem until I shut the door one night after
dark, and realized there was still a sliver of light reflecting off the
ground.  If I had turned on my interior lights, I probably would have noticed
the problem a lot sooner, but as it was, I ended up completely draining two
brand new batteries over several months.
    I do also have the Motorola alternator on mine, which I haven't had a
single problem with in two years.  (knock on wood)  In fact, ever since I
unplugged those lights I haven't had a battery drainage problem at all...and my
battery isn't tied down either.
        VIN 5102
        VIN 15964

Stephen Jarvis wrote:

> I have replaced three batteries in two and a half years (Advanced Auto
> Silvers).


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 10:07:15 -0700
From: Dick & Leslie Ryan <>
Subject: Re: Headlight Problem wrote:

> Jay, Since you know the relay is working fine, You more than likley have a
> bad headlight switch.

- - - - - - - - - - -

Oops!  I am really confused.  VIN 16867 DOES NOT shut off the low beams when the
high beams come on.  As I said, I actually like that and assumed that this waDML
is for.

Dick (not a headlight expert) Ryan
VIN 16867


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 12:59:58 -0500
From: "Andrei Cular" <>
Subject: Engine Problems

Ok I have finally reached the point of fustration that I am going to ask for

I got a D that has been sitting outside unprotected and untouched for 7
years.  The first thing I did to the engine was pull the plugs and put
Marvil oil in all the cylinders, drain the oil and overfilled it with motor
oil/ diesel misture. I pulled the gas tank, cleaned it installed a new pump,
screen,  and new boot.  I cleaned all the injectors, pressure regulator,
replaced the filter, and rebuilt the fuel distributor, even after everyone
told me not to.  After a week I drained the oil again and this time refilled
it with just motor oil to the proper level, and added more Marvil to the
cylinders.  I pulled the starter and started to turn the eninge over by
hand.after several hours under the car making sure everyting was free I put
the starter on and just let the eninge turn over and over and over....  So
everyting seamed to be ok I had oil pressure, good compression in all
cylinders, good spark, and good spray pattern from all the injectors.  The
car started right up.

My problem is that it would not accelerate.  When I would hit the gas it
would just bogg down and eventually stall unless I pushed the air sensor
plate down by hand.  I thought it was the pressure regulator so I changed
it, no luck.  After pulling the system apart again I found the injectors
were clogged, so I cleaned them again. Still with no luck I went and got a
rebuilt distrobution block thinking that maybe I screwed up the orginal when
I rebuilt it.  Now it wont even start, all the injectors are clean and get
fuel.  The only way I can get the car to run is by rigging the cold start
valve to be always open, and I realy dont like doing that but it the engine
will run and rev up with no load just fine.  As soon as I try to drive it
with the cold start valve on I have no acceleration and can only get to
about 2400 rpm.

The only part of the fuel system that I have not replaced or cleaned out is
the accumlator. But I blew air and carborator cleaner backwards throught the
line from the engine to the tank, so I assumed that it was not plugged.
Does any one have any ideas as to what I could check?  I have good spark,
the timing is at 13deg _at_dml_idle the advance works just fine.

Thanks in advance.

Andrei Cular

1990 Nissan 240sx
1988 Nissan 300z
1981 DeLorean 2767
2x 1974 VW Karmann Ghia coups
1972 Supper Beelte
1969 VW Beetle


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 22:16:32 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <>
Subject: ADMIN: Upcoming eGroups/Yahoo Merge

And now for a peek behind the curtain. . . 

It looks like the formal technical merge of eGroups with Yahoo is now 
about to occur,probably within the next week or two. They are in 
final "beta" test now. 

If all goes well, you'll notice nothing. However, it's software. And 
Murphy's law is still in force. 

In preparation I am periodically backing up the subscriber list. If 
they happen to dump everything, I'll know who you all are with the 
exception of very recent subscribers.  

If anything goes terribly wrong and things get really quiet, please 
check at for details. If the list goes away or has to 
be moved, that's where I'll tell you what is going on. I will not 
send out 1000 direct emails from my account, my ISP would probably 
think I was a spammer and dump ME. 

Hoping all goes well;

Dave Swingle
Moderator of Moderators 


Message: 18
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 14:08:51 -0500
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <>
Subject: Is EVERYTHING copyrighted? (was: Battery Straps)

Hi all,

I don't understand this 'copyright' stuff. Is DOA crazy or something? This
picture is no intelectual property so why is it copyrighted? Did they invent
it? I suppose I should pay them if I route the battery strap according to
this picture. And since they use DeLorean in the name of their organization
then maybe I should pay them everytime I say 'DeLorean'? Or maybe I should
ask them for pemission to drive my D with the delorean written on rear
bumper? Pay them everytime someone reads it perhaps.... What else is
copyrighted???? Maybe I shouldn't quote emails in my replys? It's someone
elses text, they invented it so it may be copyrighted.

Anyone from the DOA want to tell me what's up with the 'copyright' stuff? I
think that someone is becoming paranoid with copyrighting everything.
My email: tomcio'at'

OH, and with all the talk I have seen about copyrighted pictures - my
pictures of a DeLorean are not copyrighted - use it freely. If you have
something that is copyrighted (i.e. pictures) then maybe you should hide it
somewhere so I will not see it, because I will use it if I want to. I will
give you credit for taking the picture but I will not ask if I can use it.

Take care everyone and hide your pictures!
Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298

----- Original Message -----
From: "DMC Joe" <>

> The battery strap diagram in question was published in an issue of
> World Magazine, to avoid a copyright infringement you will need to get
> permission before publication.
> "We're here to help you"
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
> Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<>

Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free address at


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 00:06:20 -0000
From: "Danrc30 " <>
Subject: Just wierd...

This is the strangest item for sale for a DeLorean I've ever seen. 
Maybe I'm missing something here... what does it have to do with 
DeLoreans? Does this guy just hate DeLoreans? I just don't get it... 

Here's the link:



Message: 20
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 00:12:39 -0000
Subject: Re: Engine Problems

   My car has a similar problem. It occsionally starts but 
becomes "hung" just above idle and won't go anywhere else. The 
problem is the idle speed motor (on mine at least). After I 
disconnected it all together, the engine will run fine, just idle 
high. I also am missing a screw in the idle microswitch, might be 
another thing to check. 


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 18:27:03 -0500
From: James Espey <>
Subject: RE: DMC engine upgrades (and AZ event)

We discussed this in one of the De Lorean Motor Company online chats 
while you were pedaling around the world, Dick, and I'm in the 
process of writing an article for DW, at their request, on the 
engine. I am always hesitant to explain the details publicly (though 
anyone is welcome to call and talk to us about them) because the next 
question is invariably - "will you sell the parts separately" and 
"can you sell me the parts as a kit and I can install them". The 
answer to both, at this time, is no. We can't keep up with the demand 
we have now, and the only way we will warrant the parts is if we do 
the install. Quality control is also a big issue. Say you install the 
parts on your 150,000 mile PRV engine, and change nothing else on the 
engine. Two weeks later it disintegrates, suddenly De Lorean Motor 
Company's engine parts killed your car. If we install the parts, 
we're sure that it's done right, and the engine we're starting with 
is in good condition. We can also examine and correct other potential 
problem (motor mounts, water pump, oil pump, radiator, transmission 
etc). This limits our liability and exposure as well as ensures you 
have the ultimate product experience.

In a nutshell, Steve Rubano hit it pretty much on the head. Ported 
and polished heads (equalized chambers), slightly increased 
compression ratio,  new camshaft profiles, tubular manifold exhausts 
with new dual catalytics and a new muffler. We had been experimenting 
with some improved methods of fuel delivery at higher RPM's, but 
those mods will not be included in the Stage I upgrades. Stage II 
involves the Stage I upgrades plus a conversion to an electronic fuel 
injection system (versus stock mechanical) and maybe other stuff - 
the first motor is still in development in the UK, so it's subject to 

Idle and engine temperature are relatively unchanged. Fuel economy 
has not been carefully observed in our testing of either the 
automatic or the manual transmission test cars, though it doesn't 
appear to be markedly different. If you're going to spend 
$5,000-$6500 on a engine upgrade, odds are that a drop of a mile or 
less per gallon will be a minor concern. I drive the cars hard (ask 
the people who drove/rode with me in AZ this past weekend) and didn't 
notice much difference in mileage - it's a LOT of fun when you get on 
it, so I do it often.


>As one who has had two DeLoreans with twin turbo's (and not TOTALLY happy
>with the results), I am interested in the "new" engine.  What I'd like to
>hear is just what the modifications consist of, and the offsets to such an
>engine "hop-up".
>>Dick Ryan
>VIN 16867


Message: 22
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 16:29:05 -0800 (PST)
From: David Cox <>
Subject: Delorean on ebay - in Poway, CA

This D is right in my neighborhood.  I would be willing to take a look at it if anyone is interested in it.  Let me know at dmcox(at)

vin 16367

_____________________________________________________________ -- it's free from <a href=""> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!


Message: 23
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:36:43 EST
Subject: Fwd: Fw: Delorean for sale

I received the following essage and am passing it along to the list 
Anyone interested in the car please contact the number below.  I have not 
seen the car so I cannot answer any questions about it.
We met them at the DCO annual meeting in January at Salt Fork.

In a message dated 1/24/01 6:22:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

<< From: Patty Robinson <>
 To: <>
 Date: Sunday, January 21, 2001 7:18 PM
 Subject: Delorean for sale
 Hi,  my name is Mike Robinson, I have a 1981 Delorean for sale.  My daughter 
talked to you at Salt Fork on Jan. 13, 2001.  This is the first address 
listed when I went to <A HREF="">
</A> so I hope I'm writing to the right person.  Stacy said you had people in 
your club that didn't even own a Delorean. I am interested in selling my 
Delorean if anyone in your club is interested they can reach me by 
 e-mail at or our phone number is 330-878-5220.  It is 
best to call after 4:30 pm   
                                               Thank you
                                                MIke Robinson >>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 01:12:46 -0000
Subject: Auto Trans permanently in neutral

I just picked up my new "D" from getting restored last Saturday, and 
it was absolutely fantastic for 2 days. Then... while driving home on 
Sunday night, the automatic transmission completely dropped out of 
drive. The lever remained in the "D" position, but the transmission 
was in neutral. 

While the engine is on, the shift lever will not move to "1" or "2", 
but will move up through "N", "R" and "P", but is always in neutral 

When the engine is off, the shift lever *will* move to "1" and "2"

Needless to say, I had to call the tow truck. Fortunately, the truck 
was a flatbed, and the operator appreciated what a fine specimin of 
a "D" this is. He even took pictures! (said it was his first Delorean)

SO, are there any ideas of what the problem might be? Where do I 
begin to look?

Thanks! I can't wait to get on the road again.

Jeff Angwin
vin 3034


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 01:38:07 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <>
Subject: Re: Engine Problems

is VERY dangerous in 2 ways: 1. If the engine doesn't start within 
the first 18 seconds or so, it can create a fire hazard. 2. You can 
do serious damage to your engine by washing out the cylinders!

Here are a few things to check.

1. Verify that you have the correct fuel pressure.
   a. If the accumulator is bad, when you blew air thru it, it may
      very well have blown thru the cracked internal seal and gone
      down thru the return line giving false results.
   b. It may be a slow/clogged fuel pump, and/or a bad accumulator.
      The fuel injectors will only open once fuel pressure has reached
      a specific PSI. Opening the cold start valve by-passes the in-
      jectors to feed the engine, but there is no control what so
      ever on how much fuel the engine is fed this way. If the seal
      inside of the accumulator is damaged enough, it could be
      bleeding pressure out of the fuel system.

2. Verify that the frequency valve is buzzing.

3. As a safety precaution, NEVER REUSE ANY OF THE COPPER SEALS!!!

4. Verify that all of your vaccum lines are connected, and that none
   have any types of cracks or leaks.

5. Even though you've just put brand new sparkplugs in, make sure that
   they are properly gapped! I've had symptoms very close to yours:
   Engine had a hard time starting. Hit the gas, and it would stall.
   In my case it was a cylinder not firing intermidantly. Installed
   new plugs that I gaped first, VIOLA! Engine runs like new!

6. Although it is tempting, DO NOT adjust the mixture screw just yet.

Check all these items to make sure that everything checks out ok. 
Then take it from there for all the items that don't. There are also 
a couple of electrical items to check as well, but you may just want 
to start out easy.

vin 6585