From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 390
Date: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 6:48 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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There are 26 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Automatic Door Locks Type?
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

2. Re: Re: Reality check
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. RE: DeLoreans in Olympia
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

4. Re: Re: Carpet Adhesive?
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

5. de-icer kit - how to?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

6. RE: automatic door unlock
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

7. Thanks for the idas Re: RE:Engine Problems
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

8. headliner cleaner?
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_home.com>

9. Re: Public comments on DeLorean Cars
From: garyg_at_dml_lucent.com

10. Re:Was Auto Trans Problems Now line pressure+vacuum
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

11. RE: Binnacle recovering
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

12. RE: DML Rage [and ADMIN comment]
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

13. Re: Carpet Adhesive?
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net

14. Re: Reality check
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net

15. Re: Reality check
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>

16. Re: Re:Was Auto Trans Problems Now line pressure+vacuum
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: Re: Carpet Adhesive?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

18. Re: Re: Reality check
From: CIAsleeper22_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: headliner cleaner?
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

20. Re: de-icer kit - how to?
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

21. Re: Fuel leak?
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

22. DMC12 Handling on the limit
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>

23. RE: Re: headliner cleaner?
From: "Bryn Potter (NEC)" <v-brynp_at_dml_microsoft.com>

24. Re: Binnacle recovering
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>

25. BTTF ??
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

26. Re: Re: Carpet Adhesive?
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:13:47 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Re: Automatic Door Locks Type?

> Hello everyone! I'm trying to figure out how to wire my alarm system 
> to automatically open the door locks. Has anyone done this? 

When I got my alarm installed the installer figured out how to hook 
it up on mine. Works great, except for when the locks go out of sync.
(I still have to fix my passenger door, so this sometimes happens...)

> Would you  give me some pointers?
> I think the lock type is reversing polarity  but I'm not sure. 

The solenoids are actually dual-coil, 
with ground on the metal of the door...

> Is there a relay I can wire into? In the shop manual there is a 
> relay labeled Door Lock something but I'm not sure if that's it.

This Door Lock Module is exactely what you need...
Be aware if this is the factory original!
There are some design(?) flaws in this module that can cause
trouble. You can get locked in, drain the battery and/or burn out
the solenoids!!!

You're probably best off getting a LockZilla from DeLorean Services
or PJ Grady. The latest version (I have one on my car) has an extra
wiring loom for a Zilla Remote; you can tap into this loom for 
getting "communication" with your doorlocks.

There are two sense-wires in the original loom,
grounding one or the other will lock or unlock both doors.

The wires are coded Brown-Slate and Brown-Pink,
Brown-Slate is for Lock, Brown-Pink for unlock.

If you get your alarm to ground the appropriate wire (by use of 
a relay; transistors have proven to sometimes fail to properly 
ground for this application) when turning the alarm on and off,
you're all set!

If you want to understand the inner workings of the module,
check out the tech-section on the DMC-News site AND check the
back issues: there was a discussion on this a while ago...

Good Luck!

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------

PS. you'll find the lock-system electrics depicted in the
lower righthand corner of the electriocal diagram downloadable
from the egroups-vault.



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:43:46 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Reality check

In a message dated 1/29/01 12:15:33 AM Central Standard Time, 
louie_at_dml_delorean.com writes:


> this is maily thanks to them meeting a few very friendly, and informative 
> owners (thanks brian, darren, and ralph!), who dispelled all the common 
> rumors to them. in fact, one owner had written up a flyer he was giving out 
> at a car show, which gave a brief history of the car, company, man, and 
> dispelled all the common rumors about the car. it also listed web sites, 
> books, and the DeLorean parts suppliers, so if you really wanted to learn 
> even more about the car you could. i think it would be so great if all the 
> DeLorean owners would do this. just think of the effect it could have! 
> 

Great idea on handing out posters and such to dispell rumors.  i think i am 
going to do that myself!  my D is registered in a car show in march, and now 
i have a good idea for getting the lookers involved!  thanks for the mention!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:00:02 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: DeLoreans in Olympia

Marlus - There are several in Olympia and at least one in Yelm, a few miles
away.  Plus Bellevue, some 60 miles north, is the home of the Pacific
Northwest DeLorean Club, which I believe is the OLDEST such club (older than
DOA).  Contact me and I will try to get you to one of our upcoming events.
And I happen to work in Lacey, but my car is hibernating right now as it
does every winter.  Come spring I will be driving it daily so the wife and I
don't have to fight over who gets to drive the PT Cruiser.  While it is not
stock (300 HP supercharged Chevy motor) its still a very nice daily driver.

-- 
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:07:03 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Carpet Adhesive?

In a message dated 1/29/01 5:15:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net writes:

<< The carpet on the horizontal surface behind the seats dosen't 
 get glued down. >>
David,

I'm not talking about that carpet, I am talking about the carpet that  goes 
underneath the seats (in parts manual section... 8-7-2  fig's 9 and 11).  
When I took out those carpets a while back, I noticed there were 2 strips of 
glue that held them into place.  I noticed on Dave Stragand's web page, that 
he has 2 pictures that sorta show the strips of what remains of the glue that 
held the carpets in place.  What I did was borrowed them and put in a blue 
circle over the strips that I am talking about.  They are kind of hard to 
see, if people want a better picture of this, I can take a picture of how 
they look on my car.  Here are the links for the 2 pictures...

http://members.aol.com/njp548/dcarpetglue.gif

http://members.aol.com/njp548/dcarpetglue1.gif

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:31:26 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: de-icer kit - how to?

Hello guys,

as part of an order for some parts, i had Warren throw in a De-icer kit for 
my car (the metal shield which covers the throttle against freezing rain and 
other debris).  unfortunately, there are no instructions.  can someone out 
there briefly explain to me where and how the stuff gets put together?  i 
have the black shield, 4 lock rings, a zig-zagging piece of metal, a 
yellow-ish cone, and a silver metal piece with holes and a slot in it.  how 
does this stuff go together?

thanks!
andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:47:56 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: automatic door unlock

Shiraz - Wiring in an alarm to unlock the doors is easy.  The following is
from my installation instructions for remote opening doors:

"If you are installing an alarm or keyless entry system, it is very easy to
connect it to the door lock circuit.  Just connect the alarm unit's door
lock negative output wire to the brown/silver wire at the DMC relay/pulse
unit (the black box with all the wires sticking out of it just behind the
fuse box) with a parallel connector.  Do the same with the unlock wire,
connecting it to the brown/pink wire.  Be sure to read the alarm unit's
installation manual very carefully.  With some the alarm output is
alternately positive then negative on the next pulse.  This would cause
serious meltdown when tied into the DMC's "always negative" door lock
trigger circuit.  You can remedy this by installing a 1N4001 diode (Radio
Shack) in each alarm trigger wire which will then allow only the negative
signal to pass.  Solder the diode to the wire with its stripe toward the
alarm/keyless entry unit.

Some other tips on alarm installation for the do-it-yourselfer.  To trigger
the alarm when either door opens attach the negative "door open" sensor wire
to the red/blue or purple/white wire that protrudes from the loom on top of
the center console hump, below the radio, on the driver's side.  Both come
out of the same wiring plug at the end of one of the diodes located there.
Also, to make the parking and side lights flash, connect the proper alarm
wire to one of the red/green wires below the fuse box.  And if you need to
connect to a wire that is "hot" only when the key is on, look for a
green/white wire coming out of the large loom just inboard of the fusebox."

Hope this helps.  Give me a call if you need more info.


-- 
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:26:50 -0500
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Thanks for the idas Re: RE:Engine Problems

Well I got a chance to work on my car this weekend.  I pulled the fuel pump
from the tank again and hooked it up to a inline filter off of one of my
Ghias and ran it from a 5gal tank by passing everything and going directly
in to the fuel distributor, then put the return line in an empty 5gal tank.

When that did not work I pulled the plug from the FV and checked that for
voltage, it was only getting 4v and if my conversion is correct from the
dwell meter about 1% use.   I pulled the relay and found that the PO had
modified the wiring to bypass the relay...  It turns out that he wired it to
be always on, that explains why he said that battery would be dead if the
car sat for more that 2 weeks.  So it looks like I need a new lambda control
box, or some time to trace out the old one and fix it.   Has anyone
attempted this before?  It looks like a relay easy fix as long as all two if
the IC's are ok.

Thanks for all the ideas.  I'll keep you posted as to what happens.


Andrei Cular

      By Land                         or                       By Sea
1990 Nissan 240sx                              1988 Kawasaki 650sx StandUp
1988 Nissan 300z                                1978 Luhrs 25' Express Deck
1981 DeLorean 2767                           1978 Mako 22' CC
2x 1974 VW Karmann Ghia coups
1972 Supper Beelte
1969 VW Beetle


----- Original Message -----
From: <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 11:40 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: RE:Engine Problems


> Since the 02 sensor/thru the
> Lambda unit controls mixture by way of the F.V. #2 Then when the
> throttle switch is engaged it overides the 02 sensor to the lambda/
> Frequency Valve to lower the pressure in the lower chamber of the
> fuel distributor, maby that's where the problem.

[snipped by moderator]



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:32:22 -0700
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: headliner cleaner?

Does anyone know a good product I can use to clean dirt off of the
headliners that will not discolor them or cause them to sag?  A patch of my
carpeting also got a bit dirty after a recent day of miscellaneous repairs
if anyone also happens to know a good carpet cleaner.

Thanks in advance,

Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
Arizona DeLorean Club


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 05:00:12 -0000
From: garyg_at_dml_lucent.com
Subject: Re: Public comments on DeLorean Cars

FWIW:  Same here.  I've discussed the DeLorean with quite a few of my 
"car" friends lately, and none of them have made any negative 
comments.  Granted, I'm only 26 so most of my friends are a little 
young to remember DeLorean details from the early eighties, but even 
my older friends haven't mentioned anything negative. 

-Gary Gill 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> We must do things a little differently in the UK. The only negative 
comments I receive when out driving my D are concerning the 80 odd 
million funded by the British taxpayer.
> 





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 04:37:18 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re:Was Auto Trans Problems Now line pressure+vacuum

To check the vacuum first do a visual inspection of the pipe and
hoses to the modulater. Next with the motor running attach a vacuum gauge
to the hose at the vacuum modulater to verify full engine vacuum. To 
adjust line pressure you really should review the procedure in the 
service manual. It involves running the motor with a gauge attached
at the line pressure port and turning the vacuum modulater to get the 
correct setting. This work is easy to do if you can get it on a lift 
but it is doable on a GOOD set of 4 jackstands. Always be extra 
careful working under the car especially with the motor running.

David Teitelbaum 
vin 10757



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 01:31:52 -0500
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Binnacle recovering


I have not had my binnacle recovered, but the cracks that I had in mine were
repaired using fiberglass. Though this repair is not perfect it does look
better then the cracks. You really have to look close to even see the
repair, but I still know that it is there. Also I did change the color of my
binnacle to black. This not only hid the repair better then the gray did,
but it gave the interior of the car some of the two-tone look that I wanted.
You can see a, not so good picture of my dash at my web site,
http://stainlesssteel.freeyellow.com/index.html and then click "Restore Your
Steering Wheel".

Robert Starling
Vin#05252




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 02:01:59 -0500
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: DML Rage [and ADMIN comment]

To the respects of the list members and the moderator, I think that allowing
Rob to make his rebuttal to a comment that was made on this list was the
proper thing to do. Not everyone is going to agree with everything that is
said here or anywhere else in life. But not allow a valid member of this
list the opportunity to refute a claim or an opinion, that comes out on the
list, would be a disservice each and every member of the list.

Robert Starling
Vin#05252

---------------------------------------------------------------------
[MODERATOR NOTE - We completely agree. Please take personal complaints
off-line. Healthy difference of opinion is fine, leave the personal stuff at
the door. See the rules at http://www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html  and
http://www.dmcnews.com/Admin/vendor_rules.html   We may have been a little
lax on this, but it often starts out relatively benignly and then
escalates. ---Dave]


What with this DeLorean rage.  First it was copyright, next it was knocking
engine improvements and now Mr Grady steps in and knock a toung in cheek
comment.  I did not join this site to hear all this junk and personally I
would rather read about things DeLorean.  Am I alone?


Dee-Moats_at_dml_excite.com fin # 4434





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Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 07:53:39 -0000
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net
Subject: Re: Carpet Adhesive?

Why not just use a bit of velcro on both sides if you feel you need 
to hold it in place.


Jeremy


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> I don't think you want to glue that peice in. The computer is back 
> there. Mine is just "pressed" in place with no adhesive so that it 
> can be removed, also to access the training are shield retainer 
> (studs or screws). 
> 
> Dave
[quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:46:59 -0000
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net
Subject: Re: Reality check

This could be interesting. Do you know who it was? Maybe we could get 
a scan of it up in the files section.

Jeremy


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> in fact, one owner had written up a flyer he was giving out at a 
> car show, which gave a brief history of the car, company, man, and 
> dispelled all the common rumors about the car. it also listed web 
> sites, books, and the DeLorean parts suppliers, so if you really 
> wanted to learn even more about the car you could.



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 11:01:08 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: Re: Reality check

I kept a copy of "Delorean- Engineered for the driving enthusiast" by Jack
Singer.

This was a write up on the car written by Jack Singer that was used at the
Richmond British car show this past summer.

Although it is a bit long for the casual reader, it is excellent for someone
that wants to take a few minutes to read about the car.


Maybe Jack will post his "article" to the list so it can be included in your
pass-out sheet.



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 12:50:19 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re:Was Auto Trans Problems Now line pressure+vacuum

For measuring the line pressure, I bought the gauge from NAPA that DMC Joe
recommended.  I checked the accuracy of the gauge and found it to be reading
0.2 Bar too high.  So I pulled the glass off, pulled the needle off and then
stuck it back where it needed to be.

After I connected it to my DeLorean, I found that it would have been a LOT
easier if I had of threaded the gauge's hose through a hole in the frame in
front of the transmission instead of making the hose bend the corner as I
screwed it in.

I found that my pressure was exactly 8.0 Bar and needed no adjustment.  It's
a good thing that I checked the gauge's accuracy before I started or I would
have made an uncalled-for adjustment to the transmission.

Other observations:

I found that transmission fluid temperature had no effect on pressure;
although, I was using Mobile pure synthetic _at_dml_ $7 a quart.  Maybe that stuff
is more stable than generic fluid.  This always concerned me since I am
considering adding a separate transmission fluid cooler rather than relying
on the one coupled to the engine coolant line.  If the fluid never comes up
to testing temperature, then how are you supposed to adjust it?  Well, I
suppose it would be best to adjust it while at the temperature it will be
when you are using it the most, but temperature had no effect anyway.

At low RPMs with the gauge connected, I found that my car acquired an
unhealthy rattle.  I was relieved to find that it was only the gauge's
needle bouncing to the rhythm of the fluid pump.  I found that holding the
gauge to my ear made a great stethoscope to hear all the cool sounds that
the transmission made while it shifted.  Okay, yes, I am weird!

When testing the car with the vacuum modulator line disconnected, I suggest
plugging the line with a shortened golf ball 'T' so that nothing gets sucked
up in there and so that the vacuum leak won't affect the engine.  This is
probably unnecessary, but I've had loose vacuum lines clog from sucking in
globs of grease on other cars.  That's something that's hard to diagnose on
some of these spaghetti bowl engines.

I have found that it is nearly impossible to get an accurate fluid level
reading because the fill port is the same place as the dip stick tube.  If
you pour fluid down that tube, then forget about getting an accurate reading
on the stick until it all drains down -- say several hours.  I just kept the
stick out of there and put a cork in the end of the tube until I was
satisfied with the fluid level.  Otherwise, pulling the dip stick out the
first time to wipe off the slosh from driving would track oil through the
tube making a second reading difficult.  The over-sized bass guitar string
stick does a lot to hold/smear fluid too.  I'm considering drilling some
tiny holes through the end of the dip stick to make seeing the fluid level
more obvious.  (Yeah, yeah -- me and cross-drilling!  If it ain't my brake
rotors or Dave Stragand's brake lines, then I'm going to come up with a high
performance cross-drilled dip stick!)

If you over-fill the transmission while you have a gauge attached, I have
found that the hose on the end of the gauge is a lot easier to drain from
than loosening the fluid pan drain plug.

Despite over-filling and subsequent draining and re-filling to reach the
correct level, I found that I ended up with a net of 4.5 quarts of fluid to
re-fill my transmission. This seems like a lot since I only dropped the pan.
But I drained it hot and let it sit dripping for two weeks while I worked on
other projects.  And after two weeks, it was still dripping!

Did I mention that I hate the smell of transmission fluid?

While you have the pan off, go to Radio Shack and buy a few of those high
energy rare earth magnets.  Stick a few of those around the drain plug and
at the corners of the filter away from the inlet hole.  The less metal
particles that circulate with the fluid, the better.

And if it blows up in your face or otherwise creates a liability, don't
blame me.  I'm just an idiot/mad scientist.  :)

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 12:20:09 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Carpet Adhesive?

My car came with Velcro strips from the factory to hold the carpet in place.

Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981


----- Original Message -----
From: <njp548_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Carpet Adhesive?


> I noticed on Dave Stragand's web page, that
> he has 2 pictures that sorta show the strips
> of what remains of the glue that held the
> carpets in place




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 15:00:18 EST
From: CIAsleeper22_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Reality check

Before I bought my DeLorean I made up some similar flyers. It really helps 
people not only get past the stigma of the drug scandle, so-called under 
powerd engine, etc, but it also creates interest in the car!

Im going to load this flyer, in word form, to the files section as soon as I 
get a chance. Feel free to print it out and use it wherever :)

Justin
5172
Houston



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:45:42 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: headliner cleaner?

I used a small amount of Ivory soap with some water and a soft 
toothbrush to clean my headliners. Just takes a little patience.

-Robert
vin 6585


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Does anyone know a good product I can use to clean dirt
> off of the headliners that will not discolor them or
> cause them to sag?  A patch of my carpeting also got
>  a bit dirty after a recent day of miscellaneous repairs
> if anyone also happens to know a good carpet cleaner.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Ryan McCaffrey
> #10014
> Arizona DeLorean Club



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 17:22:13 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: de-icer kit - how to?

I would say call them back and ask them to send you instructions or 
to explain to you over the phone how to put it together. You paid 
them the money for the item and usually they should come with 
instructions. Maybe it got "misplaced" during packing. If all else 
fails, call Rob or DMC Joe, I am sure they have instructions for it.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello guys,
> 
> as part of an order for some parts, i had Warren throw
> in a De-icer kit for  my car (the metal shield which
> covers the throttle against freezing rain and  other
> debris).  unfortunately, there are no instructions.  can 
> someone out  there briefly explain to me where and how
> the stuff gets put together?

[trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 17:07:43 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel leak?

Steve,

I crawled under the car just now and found that there is a low pressure
rubber hose on the front of the accumulator held on both ends with hose
clamps -- just like you said it shouldn't be.  The same configuration is on
the rear of the accumulator as well.  None of that appears to be leaking
though (yet).  I can look up through the frame and see that the metal hose
under the console is kinked slightly, but not really enough to worry
about -- just enough to show that someone didn't know what they were doing.
How hard is it to replace the metal line?  Do you have to lift the
fiberglass off of the frame for that?

I still smell fuel!  It was fine for two weeks after I put the fuel tank
back together.  But now the odor is enough to make me sick!  I have to run
with the windows down.  I think that running the a/c makes it worse which
indicates that the leak is around the fuel tank.  (Yes, eat your heart out
you yankees!  I'm running my a/c in Florida while your cars are in winter
storage.  :-)  I pulled the cover off of the fuel pump boot, and it is all
dry inside.  The fuel lines are all dry too.  I think the leak might be
coming through the Tankzilla again.  I've had a lot of trouble with that
leaking before, but I filled all the gaps with JB-Weld and made a new gasket
for it.  With the way that the Tankzilla was made, it was impossible to make
it seal with the gaps in the top of it.  That is a long story in itself that
I will explain in another posting.  Anyway, I put a paper towel around the
top of the fuel sending unit and held it on with a rubber band.  If it leaks
any, then it should get the paper towel wet.  Sort of a DeLorean Molitov
cocktail eh?

Thanks for the help and let me know if any of you have any suggestions.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:15:27 -0000
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: DMC12 Handling on the limit

How many of our [DML] DMC-12 owner's really know how they car handles at
full song.  We all know it is no performance car however that does not mean
that fun and driver involvement be non-existent.  The Mini Cooper won rally
after rally with less power than its rivals; and owners (I myself once)
revel in the fun factor that these cars are known for.

Imagine taking your cars to an airfield race day to find out how much
under/oversteer you encounter on the limit.  An airfield race day (or USA
equivalent) is safer in the fact that the cars are spaced so collisions are
not a factor and you have plenty of run out space if you mis-judge.... as
race circuits have barriers and tyrewalls etc for you to dent the DMC!!!  .
Tyre tread will lose a few millimetres but you will have an unforgettable
experience.  Some of the UK cars lack a CAT and have a little more power on
tap... and a manual will not restrict performance or economy like a
automatic.

This would teach you alot about the car.  Knowing how your car will react in
a variety of situtions is I feel vital as one day the car and you might be
glad you knew what was coming....

 I have driven DeLorean's on both sides of the Atlantic left and right hand
drive, however I have never had the opportunity to experience the WHOLE of
the DMC driver involvement.  Only owners will know be able to experience
this....

I personally love oversteer and dislike understeer.  My theory is that with
weight of more than 60%ish towards the back of the car that understeer is
what you'll get and oversteer will hardly get a look in.


Can anyone comment on the DMC's handling over/understeer wise??


Christopher Hawes
Buckinghamshire UK
Vin...to be determined




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 14:05:18 -0800
From: "Bryn Potter (NEC)" <v-brynp_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Re: headliner cleaner?

I removed the head liners and took them to the drycleaners. Worked like a
charm.

~Bryn 10010

[Long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:31:02 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
Subject: Re: Binnacle recovering

I had my binnacle redone by Just Dashes.  They did a real nice job and matched
the original color with paint.  They also provided some spare paint.

bob Brandys




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:25:41 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: BTTF ??

Normally, I stay away from the Back to the Future stuff, but I was just taking a look at our home site (DMCNEWS), and noticed that it was last update on February 26, 2001.  Is that strange or what????
Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 26
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 17:29:32 -0500
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Carpet Adhesive?

If you already have the carpet up make sure you put down some padding and
soundproofing padding . This was just discussed recently and should be in the
archives. I believe McMaster Carr had the padding. The carpet doesn't need to be
glued down here, it just tucks in under the center console

Dave Sontos
VIN 02573

[Quote removed by overzealous moderator]



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