From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 397
Date: Sunday, February 04, 2001 8:23 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!
From: E Grauff <>

2. Re: Engine swap
From: Farrar Hudkins <>

3. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable
From: Jan van de Wouw <>

4. Re: SS Chassis
From: "Sean Howley" <>

From: "Jack Singer" <>

6. Re: Tankzilla problems, fixes & observations (long as usual)
From: "DMC Joe" <>

7. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!
From: "William F. Lane" <>

8. Re: Replacing Broken Hood Release Cable

9. car capsule

10. Re: SCAM

11. RE: car capsule
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <>

12. Engine cover springs
From: Les Huckins <>

13. oops
From: Les Huckins <>

14. Fuel Lines

15. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!

16. Electrical connections
From: Les Huckins <>

17. The scam?
From: Les Huckins <>

18. RE: car capsule
From: James Espey <>

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 14:10:20 -0800 (PST)
From: E Grauff <>
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!

Just wanted to share my experience off on a tangent about "breaking into a
DeLorean" . . . 

Don't know if you folks remember, but I was the fellow that was lucky
enough to get his drivers door jammed while the car was running in the
garage and the only key was inside.  (And of course the driver was outside
the car, and the passenger door was locked.)

I was able to shut the car down (thank you list!) and ended up calling a
local locksmith to get the car open.

The long of the short of it?  It only took this young fellow 5 minutes
with a key blank and a file to get into the car - and he could have done
most of the work away from the car.  (That is he only would have needed a
few quick contacts with the car to get things done.)

What Jason said is correct - if the professional wants into your car,
they'll get in.

On Thu, 1 Feb 2001 wrote:

> <SNIP>
> I realize that there needs to be some censorship, but if someone wants to go
> to the trouble of "breaking into" your DeLorean....they're going to do it
> anyway.  And I can be quite sure they won't take the time and delicacy of
> what I am asking from the DML subscriber's to provide me with.
> <SNIP>


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 16:55:07 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <>
Subject: Re: Engine swap

My brother-in-law swapped the stock engine in a DMC for a 350.  If
anyone wants to contact him, e-mail me privately.  He doesn't have
e-mail but I could provide a phone number.  He lives in Jacksonville,

- Farrar Hudkins
VIN#[insert wish here]


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 00:39:14 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <>
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable

On the DML, Scott Mueller wrote

> Since you have not revealed your true identity, it is my hope that no one on
> the list will tell you via this very public forum or through direct email
> how to "break" into the car.

then Marc A Levy wrote:

> Please CALL one of the vendors directly for this..   
> We do not need instructions on the public internet on how to break in to a
> DeLorean!

Come on people! 
We have a fellow DeLorean-owner (he has 3(!)) with a problem:
Let's help him!!! Hey, you've never met me before;
how sure can you be that I actually have a DeLorean???
Let's not get paranoid... (nothing personal intended!)

If some one wants to get insode your car he or she will!
The info required for "breaking in" has been on the net for at least 
2 years now at  <>
and I've never ever heard of anyone complaining about that!

Another Mark wrote:

> What you need is to go to message 11493 and there it will tell you to 
> get Service Bulletin ST-21-10-81 for a broken hood release cable.
> Contact DMC Help / De Lorean Services for the Service Bulletin.
> Join a Delorean club they're great!

This is a post I like! A solution is given AND a great tip:
JOIN A CLUB! Not only is it a lot of fun to have other people
with the same interest to talk to, they also can be of some great help!
I joined the DeLorean Club Netherlands over a year before I bought my "D".
They were really helpfull and gave me a lot of info.

Jason replied:

> We don't need this thread to last forever.  It was my FIRST EVER post even
> though I've been a reader and DeLorean owner for the past 5 years!

I've only been reading the DML for about 1,5 to 2 years, and I have seen this 
thread come up several times. It was reason for me to put a spare-cable on as
one of my first little projects. It's come up this last week:
READ THE BACK ISSUES; It's in there too!!! (several times)

The Backissues have saved me from asking "stupid" questions several times;
that's what they're there for!

Gretings from The Netherlands,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:

PS I'm sending Jason the Service Bulletin:
I'm convinced he has no false intentions here...


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 19:58:47 -0500
From: "Sean Howley" <>
Subject: Re: SS Chassis

I have been looking into building a GT-40 kit for some time now.  In looking
at all of the kits available (that I can get info on anyway) and ERA is not
the only GT-40 kit supplier that manufactures their own Stainless frames.
In fact, one (I cannot remember which) that ONLY makes the frame out of
Stainless.  In total, I have found 3 or 4 kit companies that make Stainless
frames for the 40.

Sean Howley

> I was searching around for another project car to work on
> after I finish my Delorean, I was looking at ERA's replica cars for
> the GT-40. They said that they can either make the chassis of the car
> out of standard steel or Stainless steel. 

[moderator snip]


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 20:36:43 -0500
From: "Jack Singer" <>
Subject: RE: SCAM

	There is a person trying to sell two deloreans cheap named Don
Dockery in Nebraska.  The cars are in Bakersfield and all he wants is
someone to pay the shipping costs to your location.  He wants the
shipping monies up front.  When I located another person to pick up the
cars he backed out and said that he had to pay the shipper or the cars
will be put into storage then the cars would be sold for full price.

	Watch out.  If you need any information about this person email
me directly. <> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 22:30:32 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Tankzilla problems, fixes & observations (long as usual)


I have several "off the shelf" OEM sending units in stock; very pricey.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: Walter <>
To: <>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: [DML] Tankzilla problems, fixes & observations (long as usual)

[moderator snip]

> At this time the Tankzilla is the only new fuel sending unit available for
> the DeLorean.

> Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 23:41:10 -0500
From: "William F. Lane" <>
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!


It's not a good idea to put instructions for building an atomic bomb on the
internet either because there is someone out there that would build one!
Several people replied to your request and told you where to find the
information.  If I'm not mistaken,  there are instructions for getting into the
trunk in the DMC vault.  I don't see what your problem with this is!  Everybody
on this list, I'm sure, is more than willing to help others with their problems
but maybe you don't need this list.  I certainly hope you don't truly feel this

If you would like to call me, I'll be glad to tell you how to get into the
trunk.  My number is 336-748-1211.

Bill Lane
vin 3635

[Entire Thread Quote snipped by moderator]


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 03:01:54 EST
Subject: Re: Replacing Broken Hood Release Cable

In a message dated 2/2/01 9:50:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

<< I've got a "real" problem with this hood release cable and was hoping that
 someone knowledgeable here on the DML would have some wisdom for me.

The hood release cable eventually dies on everybody, if you regularly drive 
your DeLorean, as I do.  Especially if you have no gas filler flap, meaning 
you have to open the trunk every time you get gas.  The leverage of the 
release handle bends the wire and stresses it each time.  I knew this yet 
never got around to put in a backup...until it broke.  Duh.  I was lucky.  
There was enough of a cable stub showing that I could pull on it with a pair 
of pliers while an assistant jogged the trunk lid up and down and I got my 
hood open.  It virtually never fails inside the trunk.  If you don't have 
enough stub to work with, you may need to carefully cut the cable cover with 
a pair of wire cutters to get to the the inner cable. But I'd call a DeLorean 
specialist before I took that step, to see if that's the best way to go.
I normally get all my parts from a DeLorean supplier, but in this case I got 
a brake cable from a bicyle shop.  It is coated so the end won't fray.  After 
replacing my cable, I taped the frayed end of the old one, then ran it 
parallel to the "official" cable, (outside the cable cover,) and tucked it 
behind the firewall carpeting. For next time.  Works for me.  
I don't like the "spare loop just inside your hood" method because it looks 
jimmy rigged and sloppy, and might give people bad ideas. 

-Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
The New DeLorean Manuals Project


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 14:42:17 EST
Subject: car capsule

Does anyone know where I might find an inflatable car capsule (to protect my 
Delorean) ...  a unit that can be used outside not inside my garage?

jim albin   


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 22:27:17 -0000
Subject: Re: SCAM

The question is it or isn't it a scam? I'd several hours from 
Bakersfield and have been looking for a semi-project car. Hopefully 
it's real.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 	There is a person trying to sell two deloreans cheap named Don
> Dockery in Nebraska.  The cars are in Bakersfield and all he wants 


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 20:17:50 -0700
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <>
Subject: RE: car capsule

DeLorean Motor Company in Houston sells the Carcoon.  I've seen it at their
display at this year's Barrett-Jackson car auction here in Scottsdale, and
like everything else I've seen from Stephen Wynne, it's top-notch.  The
website is .

Ryan McCaffrey
Arizona DeLorean Club

-----Original Message-----
From: []

Does anyone know where I might find an inflatable car capsule (to protect my
Delorean) ...  a unit that can be used outside not inside my garage?

jim albin


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 19:56:14 -0800
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: Engine cover springs

Just got my car last week, didn't see anything to pop the cover, got 2
small coil springs just long enough to put slight tension on the lid
while closed, took 2 pieces of old vacuum hose (about 2/3 the length of
the springs) with an od slightly smaller than the id of the springs and
screwed the springs onto them, the id of the hose is just smaller than
the od of the threaded portion of the louver door latch that extends
below the door and just screwed the hose into place.  Everything fits
and works perfectly, feels like it's bolted on but it's not.  I show it
off to everyone who will hold still for it, it's really clever and I
don't do much in the really clever department.  If anyone wants pix or
dimensions, no problem, let me know...Les


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 20:01:34 -0800
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: oops

just sent you a message about my engine cover springs and goofed it up.
The hose od is slightly LARGER than the id of the spring, that's why the
spring will screw on to it, ditto the od of the studs is larger than the
id of the hose so that screws into place too.

Who among us is perfect, right!



Message: 14
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 23:49:18 -0000
Subject: Fuel Lines

Alright, so here is the story.  My original fuel lines from the fuel 
pump to the metal lines went bad.  I went to Auto Zone bought some 
5/16 fuel line and replaced them and everything was fine....until I 
started to think about the pressure.  

I wrote a posting to this forum and asked for advise and everyone 
said that I must have high presuure fuel lines.  I got nervous and I 
ordered them from DMC Joe.  He had them sent through PJ Grady and 
they arrived this weekend.

DMC Joe offered them to me already "made up" with the connectors on 
them.  I declined as I thought that $30 bucks more was a lot to spend 
for a "little labor."  Big mistake!

Anyway, I tired heating the hoses with a industrial heat gun and it 
was not enough to get them properely seated.  I then heated the 
connectors with a torch and that worked but then I worried about 
doing damage to the hoses.  

In any case, my concerns were properly founded as when I blew 
commpressed air through the lines and they were partically blocked.  
I finely "drilled" the blockages out and assembled the hoses to the 
pump and the metal fuel lines.

Lastly, one of the fittings is on the pump itself and you cannot heat 
that one with a torch, unless, you have very good insurance. I can 
tell you that getting the last one on is a true nightmere.  I was not 
able to get it fully on, but I believe that it is on sufficiently to 
clamp and I noticed no leaks when I ran the engine.

All in all, a time consumming job.  It would have been better to have 
bought them assembled and then installed them!  If you try to save a 
buck you end up spending more and have to live with the concern that 
maybe you did not do it right.

Anyway, in defference to Walter I think that I have now exceeded the 
length for a normal posting but I hope that my experience helps 
someone else.



Message: 15
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 23:53:26 -0000
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!

Comparing how to gain entry into the trunk as compared to building a 
nuclear bomb is a bit of a stretch. I wouldn't consider the info 
contained in the vault to be of any concern thief wise since it does 
require the car to be placed onto a lift. So I don't think that any 
one is going to be desperate/willing enought to go to the extreme of 
lifting the car up simply to gain access to the trunk. The other 
method that is mentioned though is a differant story. It does describe 
in minor detail how to gain access from the outside via a few simple 
moves with a couple of tools (I have seen it done in person, and it is 
for the most part a simple procedure). But since details are not 
given, I wouldn't worry about that either. The third method described 
requires access first to the passenger compartment to be completed. 
Assuming someone is able to break into the car, they could simply pull 
the handle to open the bonnet.

In respect to an issue of this type that owners may have, I'd say that 
giving out instructions on how to access the trunk via either placing 
the car onto a lift, or opening the trunk from the INSIDE of the 
passenger compartment is fine.

vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> Jason,
> It's not a good idea to put instructions for building an atomic bomb 
on the
> internet...


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 16:33:56 -0800
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: Electrical connections

I've been reading the back issues and find a lot of opinions on how best
to maintain proper electrical conductivity so I'll add mine.  First, my
qualifications, 25 years a TV tech , 15 years a  Computer tech, and a 20
year love affair (just ended) with remember, the 6
cylinder, rear engine, aluminum block and heads.  Ok, whatever the
question, the answer is WD-40.  In the early days of TV we had trouble
with oxidization in tuner contacts, one of the early remedies for the
drum tuners (standard coil) was the eraser, (mentioned by someone that I
read), that worked but not for long, oxidized again very quickly...then
came a series of miracle sprays and liquids that helped a little,
finally settled on WD-40 which is still in use today.  I still do audio
work and all switches and controls get a shot of WD-40 if not absolutely
positive.  In computers, when any card quits, before I trash it I rub a
little WD-40 on the contacts...amazing number of quick fixes that way.
In Corvairs, there were all sorts of hot spots and one #10 wire in
particularly that got hot and burned up it's mating point.  WD-40 if
applied before it was totally fried, saved it.  I owned some 2 dozen
Corvairs and religiously pulled every connector apart and gave it a shot
of WD-40 doing basic restoration.  We're talking low current, high
current, you name it, WD-40 is your answer.  (Yeah, I know it's
flammable and if you draw an arc around it you can start a fire, it also
works great starting some balky gasoline engines on mowers and edgers,
sometimes better than Quick-start).  I'd like to make this longer but I
just got here and don't want to take advantage.

Les 10059


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 15:52:47 -0800
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: The scam?

I'm less than an hour from Bakersfield (CA), was there today for a
computer show, can check it out if there's a true lead.

Les in Tehachapi


Message: 18
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 22:25:19 -0500
From: James Espey <>
Subject: RE: car capsule

The address that Ryan gave is for the manufacturer, in the UK. De 
Lorean Motor Company is the exclusive US distributor the Carcoon 
product, and can be seen at:


James Espey
Carcoon America, a division of DeLorean Motor Company


>DeLorean Motor Company in Houston sells the Carcoon.  I've seen it at their
>display at this year's Barrett-Jackson car