From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 398
Date: Monday, February 05, 2001 7:54 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Lock Probs, most likely module?
From: graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com

2. Matching tyres in the UK
From: nbeatson_at_dml_aol.com

3. RE: car capsule
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Fuel Lines/Save a Buck
From: tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com

5. Lug nuts and Fast idle
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

6. Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: car capsule
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

8. Cold engine and smoke
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

9. Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

10. Re: Lug nuts and Fast idle
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

11. Anti-sieze compound
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

12. Lug nuts II & Idle II
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

13. Idle III
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

14. Re: Re: Lug nuts - WARNING
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com>

15. Spare (Donut) tire
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

16. Travel Specials from US to Ireland to attend Eurofest 2001
From: rdh_at_dml_hozt.com

17. WD-40 the other side
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

18. Auto trans ARRRGGHHH
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org>

19. Nose bra question (Colgan Custom brand)
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: Auto trans ARRRGGHHH
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

21. Idle Speed
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

22. Re: Nose bra question (Colgan Custom brand)
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 22:33:45 -0000
From: graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Lock Probs, most likely module?

Hi all,

 I've read up on the past issues and all, but I think my problem may 
be a bit different. My passenger side lock does not fully lock or 
unlock when activated either by the driver's side lock or by the 
keyless entry (Alpine). The solenoid does move the button half way, 
kind of in a half locked position. Now the strange part: this usually 
only happens when the car is off. When running, the locks seem to 
have more 'power' and carry through with the locking or unlocking. My 
battery seems to have all the power in the world, so I really can't 
blame the battery I don't think. I don't have lockzilla (yet, but I 
get the feeling I may soon!).

 The button needs to be pushed the rest of the way into locked or 
unlocked position in order for the door to actually lock or unlock.

 What do ya think? Zilla it? Anything in particular I should fiddle 
with first?

Tyler
#3472






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 07:42:13 EST
From: nbeatson_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Matching tyres in the UK

Question for all UK Delorean owners.

Has anyone replaced their tyres recently?

I've so far spent over a week trying to find matching front and rears only to be told that Yokohama no longer make rears, and Michelin are so far not yet available in the UK.

Any help would be appreciated.

Nigel

vin 02677

license plate 'DOC 16V'



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 07:53:02 EST
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: RE: car capsule

I have one - it is a wonderful product and he stands behind it 100%.  I had a fan motor failure and Steve sent a new one for free without even hesitating.  I suspect most would have tried to charge a buck for it.

Fred
6894



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 14:46:25 -0000
From: tmasterlc_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Lines/Save a Buck

I think the following quote pretty much says it all.

"Remember, it's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too 
little.  When you pay too much, you may lose a little money but when 
you pay too little, sometimes you lose everything because the thing 
you bought was incapable of doing the job it was bought to do."  
Author unknown.

Ron & Cheryl
#6322




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 07:25:09 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Lug nuts and Fast idle

I've skimmed the last quarter of 2000 and have a couple of comments.
Number 1, I hate the donkeys with impact wrenches that tighten lug nuts
so you can't get them off in case of a flat (I use the same technique as
mentioned on the list,  4' of  1 1/2" pipe as a lever for my lug wrench
and check every vehicle that I become owner of).  Yesterday, day 11 of
my ownership I did the D, it was the worst I've seen, bent my very tough
lug wrench. I've seen nuts so tight they stretched the studs, forcing
stud replacement and after a time ground out so much metal the wheel had
to be replaced, ditto the lug nut.  Mag wheels are also prone to crack
causing replacement of the wheel.  Always specify hand tightening if you
don't do your own, or preferably, get a torque wrench and just have the
wheels snugged on and you finish to specs.

Fast idle.  I read a question from another newbie inquiring as to why
his idle was so fast.  He was told, in effect, there was no control over
this, it's handled by the idle circuit...just not so, there's an idle
stop screw adjustment that can very quickly run the idle up to very high
revs.  My unit was surging every second from about 500 to 1200.  I don't
know what the true answer is (yet) but I could hold the throttle down
slightly and it idles well when set at 850 so I set it there by turning
the stop screw in very slightly...there's a lot of adjustment left on
that screw.

Les




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 16:46:25 -0000
From: SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?

Just a thought. Try the grounds for the locks.  Sounds like you 
might have a loose ground wire.

Scot
6452




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:02:06 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: car capsule

A good place to look is in Hemmings Motor News. It is the bible of the 
car hobby and can be found on any large newsstand. There are several 
suppliers of different types of car enclosures. You can also subscribe 
but be warned there are too many nice things to buy!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jalbin_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Does anyone know where I might find an inflatable car capsule (to 
protect my 
> Delorean) ...  a unit that can be used outside not inside my garage?
> 
> jim albin




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:05:16 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Cold engine and smoke

Hello,
When I start my Delorean after a week or so of not driving it, a lot 
of exhaust smoke comes out.  It's not a bad looking smoke, just a lot 
of exhaust.  Is this normal?  Once the engine warms up or when I 
start to drive, it is fine.  Also, when it is cold it tends to 
hesitate a bid in first.  It will never stall or loose total power, 
just hesitate a bid when I give it some gas.
Thanks for the help

Erik Geerdink
4512




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:06:19 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?

The problem sounds like you need to adjust the locking mechanism in 
the door first. You cannot cure this with a lock module. You need to 
get the service manual to properly do all of the adjustments. Be 
careful the stainless steel edges inside the door are SHARP.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., graves_14_at_dml_h... wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
>  I've read up on the past issues and all, but I think my problem may 
> be a bit different. My passenger side lock does not fully lock or 

> Tyler
> #3472




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:23:55 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Lug nuts and Fast idle

You need to make certain the micro switch for the idle circuit is 
making contatct at idle. There are 3 screws on the intake, all 3 
should be set closed, lightly.There is no idle adjusment as such, the 
idle computer takes care of it if everything is working and set 
correctly.
 As far as torqueing the wheels most shops are more concerned about a 
wheel falling off than you removing a flat so they "go to town" and 
really sock those wheels on.The better shops are now using Torque 
sticks to tighten lugs. It is a colored extension that resonates when 
you reach the desired setting, different colors indicate the torque
of 
each extension, they have different diameters. They really work.
Using 
a lug wrench and pipe is no longer the way to go except to take off 
the lugs. When you remove the wheel clean the lugs because they 
collect tiny shards of metal from air gun happy mechanics who spin
the 
lugs on and off. Be careful as they are sharp and after cleaning use 
WD-40 to lubricate the threads. Recheck the torque after the first
100 
miles of driving and be sure to alternate when tightening the studs 
say a pattern of 1-3-2-4 so as not to warp the rotor. You should also 
make sure that the surface of the rotor and the corresponding surface 
of the rim is clean so the wheel won't wobble.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I've skimmed the last quarter of 2000 and have a couple of comments.
> Number 1, I hate the donkeys with impact wrenches that tighten lug 
nuts
>hy
> his idle was so fast.  He was told, in effect, there was no control 
over
> this, it's handled by the idle circuit...just not so, there's an 
idle
> stop screw adjustment that can very quickly run the idle up to very 
the stop screw in very slightly...there's a lot of adjustment left 
on
> that screw.
> 
> Les




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 10:33:23 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Anti-sieze compound

In the Corvair world where I spent many happy years, you were always
admonished to use an anti-sieze compound when installing steel into
aluminum.  I'm sure this holds true for the D's also.  Any auto parts
store should have it, get a small tube and lightly coat anything you
screw into the block or heads, especially sensors, thermisters, studs,
and the like...you may want to get it loose sometime without a torch and
hours of frantic misery.  If you're in a hurry and can't wait, at least
give the threads a shot of WD-40.

Les




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 11:55:13 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Lug nuts II & Idle II

Hey, studs are the only threads I DON'T put WD-40 on.  WD-40 is a two
edged sword, it really does penetrate and lubricate, sometimes you don't
want all of what it can do.

Re idle, the postings say this might be wrong and that might be wrong
and check all of it.  Hasn't anyone worked out a system and sequence?
At the moment I don't know where the components are located and how best
to check them other than the little snippets I've read.  In the TV biz
we called it shot-gunning when you changed everything involved to effect
a cure.  Tune-up shops do that, if you change everything involved it's
likely you'll get a fix.  I have to know the what and where and why, can
anyone tell me before I have to work it out on my own?  Thanks.  Also,
desperately need to know the value of the motor fuse #1 so I can remove
the relay installed with the alarm from hell.

Les




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 12:27:54 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Idle III

Not going to argue that the system is working improperly but am going to
tell you that it does indeed idle quite well with the throttle stop set
as is and the micro switch set properly.  I'll listen to anything except
it can't and it won't because it does!  Tell me more, thanks, Les




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 15:44:21 -0500
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Lug nuts - WARNING

WARNING!!!
David, I'm sorry to say this but you are very WRONG!!! DO NOT USE ANY
LUBRICANT ON THE LUGS!!!!
I'm sure you don't want your wheels to fall of while driving. Most car
manufacturers will state that in the owners manual. You are not suppose to
use anything on the wheel lugs. And WD-40 is probably the worst thing you
can use. Just clean the lugs with a soft wire brush and that is it.

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298
tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
<SNIP>
>after cleaning use
> WD-40 to lubricate the threads.
<SNIP>
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free _at_dml_yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 12:23:58 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Spare (Donut) tire

First, what a great forum, thanks to all of you.  Now that I can get my
wheels off here's what happened with my spare.  It held no air, it also
had the nozzle from an aerosol can stuck between the bead and the wheel
on the inside.  Are we talking sloppy folks out there?  After airing it
up, (it had obviously been flat for many months or years) it was again
zero air the next morning, leaking all around the front of the rim.
Took it to the local tire shop and they have a product called bead seal
and they proceeded to brush it all the way around the bead.  Held
everywhere except where the nozzle was but in a couple of day that
sealed too so now have full complement of air.  Not sure of the point of
this other than this being my first experience with bead seal.  I was
going to get a new tire but none in my town.  For now we go with the old
one.

Les




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 20:04:56 -0000
From: rdh_at_dml_hozt.com
Subject: Travel Specials from US to Ireland to attend Eurofest 2001

Ireland Vacations is advertising some very attractive specials from 
the US to Ireland through May 31.  Check them out at:

http://www.shamrock.org/

The Emerald Farmhouse B&B offered by Sceptre Tours at:

http://www.shamrock.org/self_drive/emeraldfarm_f2001.html

includes round trip air from the US, car rental and 6 nights B&B 
housing for the following:

New York/Boston/Baltimore    $679
Chicago                      $749
Los Angeles                  $799

Information regarding DeLorean Eurofest 2001 is available at:

http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/eurofest2001.html

Ray Haug, Internet Director
DeLorean Owners Association
webchair at delorean-owners.org





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 14:57:58 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: WD-40 the other side

WD-40 is a very powerful product and should be used with some
discretion.  I stated a few of my uses with a negative on wheel studs,
Tom told it better but that's the idea.  I'd like to relate one
anecdote, I hope it's permissible,  I have a friend who's a cop, he used
WD-40 to oil his police special, decided to do the bullets too...when it
came time to use it in a critical situation the bullets wouldn't
fire...the PD issued a warning bulletin.  Get the idea?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 19:09:49 -0600
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org>
Subject: Auto trans ARRRGGHHH

Well rebuilding the Auto Trans GC works -- sort of.  After about 30 miles or
so of driving car drops from 3rd to 2nd and won't shift back up.  Let it sit
for about an hour or so and you are good to go for about the same amount of
time. ( sounds like heat failure of transistor TIP42 that I replaced the RCA
Transistors with ) Also shifting from 1st to second gets flaky if driving
continues.

Any other advice on this is welcome.  At this point I am going to pull out
the TIP42s and put back the RCA Transistors to see what happens.

BTW the TIP42s can be replaced with NTE197s as well. ( the NTEs seem to have
a larger voltage range but I am not sure that matters since I don't really
know the full aspects of the circuits involved. )

Matthew L. Walker
Vin 1219

Seriously looking at redesigning that circuit board.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 20:14:55 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Nose bra question (Colgan Custom brand)

When I bought my DeLorean last year, it came with a Colgan Custom brand nose
bra.  I never tried putting it on until a few days ago.  I found that it is
way too big.  It wraps around my chest several times.  But it fits my car
just fine. :-)

Anyway, it came with no instructions or storage case, but it has clear
plastic windows that can attach over the headlights with velcro.  I'm
wondering if this was a custom modification done by the previous owner or if
it was made like this originally.  I'm suspicious that it was done custom.
Can anyone tell me either way?

If anyone is interested in buying mine, I'll sell it for a reasonable price.
But I suppose that depends on if we both can agree on what reasonable is.
If you want to make an offer on it, reply privately.  If you post to the
list, it may not get posted and not forwarded either.

Walt    Tampa, FL




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 22:03:46 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Auto trans ARRRGGHHH

Matthew,

Did you install spike shunting diodes across each of the two solenoids and
bias them correctly?  The OEM unit didn't have these, and perhaps your new
transistors can't take that kind of punishment.

Walt    Tampa, FL





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 03:00:53 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Idle Speed

For a comple description of how the idle speed circuit is physicly 
connected, check the archives for a write up I did a little while 
back. The idle speed of the engine is regulated entirely by the idle 
speed ECU. Circuit wise, from what I've read about the main chips
on the board, I think (don't hold me to this yet, I havent yet
studied 
the board THAT close) the way that the circuit works is this: Faster 
the idle, higer the electrical input to the ECU. When ever the signal 
(idle) is too high or low, the unit increaes/decreases air flow 
accordingly to correct itself (which in turn modifies the strength of 
the signal). Idle speed (input tolerances). are preset and determind 
by the types of chips that are installed. 

I'm a little fuzzy as to what exactly your syptoms are, and which 
screw(s) you are refering to in your post. The 3 idle adjustment 
screws on the intake manifold are not used in the DeLorean 
application. On the throttle lever assembly there are 2 screws there 
that act as a stop, and a switch trip.

When diagnosing a problem with the idle speed circuit, check the 
following things in this order (remember, this is NOT a detailed 
list, only a brief one):

1. Verify the screw on the throttle assembly is making proper contact 
w/the idle speed microswitch.

2. Check that all wires in the connectors for the the idle speed
motor 
and the ECU are seated properly.

3. Verify that you are recieving the power/ground to all the proper 
wires in the circuit (a detailed, yet simple process).

Check these items and take things from there. Located in the vault is 
a copy of the wiring diagram and it's respective legend. A workshop 
manual from your friendly parts vender is ALWAYS a priceless 
investment as well.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Re idle, the postings say this might be wrong and that might be 
wrong
> and check all of it.  Hasn't anyone worked out a system and 
sequence?
<SNIP>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 22:41:41 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Nose bra question (Colgan Custom brand)

In a message dated 2/4/01 8:51:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, Whalt_at_dml_att.net 
writes:

<< Anyway, it came with no instructions or storage case, but it has clear
 plastic windows that can attach over the headlights with velcro.  I'm
 wondering if this was a custom modification done by the previous owner or if
 it was made like this originally.  I'm suspicious that it was done custom.
 Can anyone tell me either way? >>

Hi Walt-

These were out of production for years. Last year I was able to get together 
a sufficient order to induce Colgan to reissue a limited batch.  They all 
sold. I'm not aware of any other source of new  DeLorean custom made nose 
bras at present. 
The storage bag is an option. The clear windows are original equipment.  They 
give some lateral stability to the window hole, but you can use the nose bra 
with or without them.  It's a really nice heavy duty, well made item, isn't 
it?  The owners who bought them loved them.
I put a pic of mine in the vault: <A 
HREF="http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">
http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra</A><A 
HREF="http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">.JPG</A>  The 
original nose bra comes with a warranty and installation info.  I put togther 
an additional instalIation guide with photos to make it even easier.  You can 
install it in minutes. Send me your address privately and I'll send you a 
copy.  It's nice to have whether you keep the nose bra or sell it.  
I've been thinking it's time to see about reissuing another batch.  I need 15 
orders to make the minimum.  I haven't rechecked price and availability with 
Colgan.  If anyone has an interest at present, please contact me at:  
deloreanernst(at)aol.com.  I know several people contacted me last time after 
we sold out.  Maybe we can put together an order... have them in time for the 
beginning of the show season.  Nice to have on your car when you hit the 
hiways for shows.  You should have seen the bugs and junk on mine when I 
drove from here to Richmond, Va. for the big British Car Show last fall. (Ten 
hours round trip.)

-Wayne A, Ernst
The New DeLorean Manuals Project
vin 11174



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________