From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 399
Date: Monday, February 05, 2001 8:30 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Fwd: Poll results for dmcnews
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. More work done on frame
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

3. ETDOC- February Meet
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Lug nuts - WARNING
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

5. Re: Auto trans governor problems
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo_at_dml_thehersheys.com>

6. Re: Auto trans ARRRGGHHH
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

7. Re: Re:Door Lock Problems
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo_at_dml_thehersheys.com>

8. removing the air deflector
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

9. Hylomar
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

10. Lube on the studs
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

11. Re: Hylomar
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

12. re: Hylomar
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

13. cv boots
From: edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com

14. need email address
From: "Drinkware" <marvin_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

15. D-1
From: Willie Mack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

16. Re: removing the air deflector
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: Re: Lug nuts
From: E Grauff <datamonk_at_dml_svn.net>

18. Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement
From: loweryd_at_dml_nima.mil

19. 2 fast questions
From: "Delorean_at_dml_abato. net \(E-mail\)" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

20. Re: WD-40 the other side
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

21. Re: More work done on frame
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

22. Re: Stabilizer Recall (was More work ..)
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

23. Re: removing the air deflector
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: Matching tyres in the UK
From: loweryd_at_dml_nima.mil

25. Re: Re: Stabilizer Recall (was More work ..)
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:48:19 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Fwd: Poll results for dmcnews

>The following dmcnews poll is now closed.  Here are the
>final results:
>
>
>POLL QUESTION: Do you think that a Delorean made in
>1981, 1982, or 1983, with new upgraded
>lowering springs and shocks fitted to
>it, which will increase handling
>performance, can outhandle an AUDI TT
>made in the year of 2000, or 2001.
>
>CHOICES AND RESULTS
>- No, 14 votes, 63.64%
>- Yes, 8 votes, 36.36%
>
>INDIVIDUAL VOTES
>- No
>      - NJP548_at_dml_aol.com
>      - ilan_at_dml_entermyworld.com
>      - dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com
>      - jcwelch_at_dml_ricochet.net
>      - Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl
>      - srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
>      - jsight_at_dml_pair.com
>      - CIAsleeper22_at_dml_aol.com
>      - cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com
>      - jdsjlv_at_dml_aol.com
>      - mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com
>      - malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com
>      - tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com
>      - mquinto_at_dml_msn.com
>- Yes
>      - Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
>      - DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
>      - beecher_at_dml_colorado.edu
>      - delorean_at_dml_online.no
>      - stiefel_at_dml_minalco.com
>      - petleech_at_dml_aol.com
>      - deeb_at_dml_delorean.com
>      - louie_at_dml_delorean.com
>
>
>For more information about this group, please visit
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit
>http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms
>
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 00:16:18 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: More work done on frame

Hey List,

     I have been pretty busy lately and I wasn't able to send a post to the 
DML a few days ago with an update on the work that I have done on the frame.  
A few days ago I was able to install the front stabilizer bar and then 
install the vacuum lines that run the length of the frame.  I had to repair 
one of the vacuum lines, after I saw that it had a rust hole all the way 
through it on a part of it.  What I did was cut that section off with a hack 
saw, and I had some extra steel piping from another vacuum line from the car 
(I got a replacement from DMC Houston a while back) so I just matched up the 
cut off piece with a good section of the old vacuum line and cut it off, then 
I used some rubber hose and 2 clamps and put that new piece of steel line on 
the vacuum line.  It came out really good.  I got pictures to show everyone 
if the description I gave wasn't that good.  I should also add that 
installing the stabilizer bar was a pain in the neck to install.  It took me 
about 5 hours to do.  For some reason the threads in the frame where the 
bolts to secure the stabilizer clamps weren't lining up right.  I had to use 
a round file and make the holes for one of the strengthening plates bigger in 
order to get it to work.  The next day I was able to mate up the engine and 
tranny, and now tomorrow I plan to install the engine and tranny into the 
frame and to finish up the frame.  All that I have to do now is engine and 
tranny, run the heater feed and return lines, run the ss clutch line, and run 
the a/c lines.  Next Sunday, I plan to lower the body onto the frame.  If 
anyone in the long island area would like to stop by and help lower the body, 
feel free to e-mail me privately and I will give you the address, directions 
and the time we will be working on it.  We will need a lot of help moving the 
body from inside my garage and onto the frame.  Have a great week everyone!

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 21:24:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: ETDOC- February Meet

Hey all-

I am Aaron Posey in Knoxville, TN, and some of us local
owners are starting to organize the East Tennessee DeLorean
Owners Club-

I would very much like to have a gathering this month of
all the local owners.  Since there aren't as many
activities and shows now as there are in the summertime; I
thought this would be a good time as any to have a get
together.

Here is the plan-

Meet Sunday, Feb 25th around 10:3-am in Knoxville at
Rodgers Cadillac, 8360 Kingston Pike (email me for
directions individually). Just spend enough time at Rodgers
so that everyone can get there.

Approx 11:30-12pm, leave to go to group lunch downtown
Knoxville.  I haven't decided on a place; however,
Tennessee Grill is what I am leaning towards. It is new and
very good.  They have valet parking, but I will ask to see
if we can park our own cars if each D owner wishes- should
not be a problem.

After lunch I felt like a nice cruise in the DeLoreans
would be in order!  Head on the back roads to Gatlinburg
then on into the Smokies for a while. Coming back through
Gatlinburg we would stop at the Cars of the Stars Museum
where they are supposed to have a DeLorean on display. I
will call to confirm this. I will also check to see if
there are any group rates and such.  

I would like as many as possible to attend the gathering.
In your DeLorean or not please show! I want to try and
accomodate everyone, so if anyone has any suggestions
please let me know. Enthusiasts and owners are all welcome!

Aaron Posey
ETDOC
www.etdoc.com  <still under construction!>
cadysrme (at) yahoo.com

800 936 6904 Monday-Saturday(9-6) 
865 310 2228 anytime



__________________________________________________
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 
a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 05:36:16 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Lug nuts - WARNING

I understand your concern lubricating the wheel studs. I have used 
wd-40 and crc-56 (a similar product) for years with no ill effects. I 
am careful not to get it on the rim or the flared surface of the
wheel 
lug, only the threads. I find that it keeps the lugs from "freezing" 
on the stud and it keeps from creating the tiny shards of metal from 
the threads. (they will cause the lug to "freeze" and then you shear 
off the stud when you try to remove it.) ALWAYS torque the lugs and 
recheck after some driving. With alloy rims it is especially 
important, ask Rob Grady, he almost lost a wheel on his green car
once 
with alloy wheels!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> WARNING!!!
> David, I'm sorry to say this but you are very WRONG!!! DO NOT USE 
ANY
> LUBRICANT ON THE LUGS!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free _at_dml_yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 23:50:16 -0600
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo_at_dml_thehersheys.com>
Subject: Re: Auto trans governor problems

Matthew, one of the new transistors could be bad and replacing the originals
may do the trick. But the solenoid current isn't all that high and I'd be
surprised if the TIP42 is thermaling on you. Especially since they are both
biased off in 3rd gear (when it's working right) and should generate little
heat of their own when you're crusing down a long stretch of highway and not
changing gears often. Still possible of course; the transmission generates a
lot of heat on it's own.

Did you add the .1 microfarad caps  across pins 3 and 4 of the 6-pin
comparator chips? Greatly improved overall stability. Could have cold solder
joint somewhere on the board that opens up with heat. Most likely spot is
where the inter-board jumpers solder on the boards. Been suspicious of
several but never proved a bad one for sure. Nearly all of 'em have solder
pads that look bad and could use a touchup just on principle. I've always
just resolderd everything on he ones I've fixed for friends so we may have
covered over a few problems without knowing...Recently found one unit that
had badly nicked wires where the jumper ribbon's insulation was removed at
the factory Two of the leads were broken. Made intermittent contact--tough
to find! Really ambitious: replace the solid-wire multi-lead interboard
jumper with individual flexible, stranded wires.

Several folks have suggested adding some antispiking diodes; that's
certainly good engineering practice but I removed mine years ago while
trying to isolate other problems (and to prove the diodes help) and never
put them back. Haven't had any problems without them but if something else
is marginal they could help.

Another possibility: downshift circuit is getting set when it shouldn't.
Look for the two little white throttle microswitches that engage only at
full throttle (near the throttle spool) One of 'em forces a downshift to
second and can even downshift to first if it is closing at lower than full
throttle (like if the switch is bad). Bit of a long shot, but try
disconnecting them at the inline  black connector a few inches downstream
from the switch body, drive for awhile,  and see if it makes a difference.
Grounding that wire anywhere on it's length would cause a downshift, so look
for burns and abrasions. Incidentally, the other companion white switch just
cuts out the A/C compressor on wide-open throttle so leaving both
disconnected while you test won't hurt anything.

I suggest you lavish paste flux (non-acid of course) on all the interboard
jumpers and resolder them and the cable leads where they solder on the
boards. Might as well flux all of both boards and resolder everything.
Usually you can pull the boards out just far enough from the plastic cable
strain relief to butterfly them out for access. I sent some pics showing the
.1 cap solder location for the DMCNEWS technical section  and moderator Dave
Swingle kindly offered to process 'em into a useable and smaller file size
format. Watch for them at http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm#index
\\Mark






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 05:49:53 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Auto trans ARRRGGHHH

From what I have read, heard from other owners and my direct 
experiance the problems with the shift computer appear to come from 
two main sources, 1 blown capacitors, and 2 cold solder joints. The 
repairs are obvious, replace the caps and resolder the board. I have 
heard of the transistors blowing but it is rare and if that happens
it 
cannot shift into 1 of the gears so if you have all of the gears even 
intermittantly the most likely problem is cold solder joints. The 
multi switch can even go bad but that is very unlikely. Don't rule
out 
the connecters to the big plug on the firewall, a bad connection
there 
can cause intermittant shifts too. The trans needs 12 volts so if it 
doesn't get it or the connection is "iffy" it can cause weird shifts. 
Be careful a bad shift computer can put a lot of strain on the trans 
with all of the improper shifts and damage internal parts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Matthew,
> 
> Did you install spike shunting diodes across each of the two 
solenoids and
> bias them correctly?  The OEM unit didn't have these, and perhaps 
your new
> transistors can't take that kind of punishment.
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 00:21:23 -0600
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo_at_dml_thehersheys.com>
Subject: Re: Re:Door Lock Problems

David's  probably right--sounds like excessive drag on the lock mech. I've
found two places on mine:

1) If you have a two key deLorean (door key and ignition are different), the
door lock cylinders have a white nylon outer ring that is supposed to rotate
freely a few degrees around the lock cylinder body. This ring is connected
to the lock bellcrank via a wire bail; it's what mechanically moves the
bellcank when you turn the door key to the extreme right or left but allows
you to use the inside rocker and solenoid without actually turning the lock
cylinder (which of course couldn't turn if it has no key in it). Both of
mine developed so much drag over time that the lock solenoids would only
work when the car was running and the supply voltage was an extra volt or
two high. So much drag that it took a noticable extra effort to move the
rocker by hand. Silicone spray on the outside of the lock cylinder cured it
(access by removing upper inside door trim or might be able to get a spray
nozzle nearby by rolling down the window. ) Should probably be careful to
avoid spraying silicone into lock cylinder. Apparently later 1-key DeLoreans
don't have this problem.

2) The lock rod going to the front lock/latch mechanism runs behind the
lower door trim at a spot where the trim can rub it and cause extra drag.
Might need to remove the lower trim and make sure the rod is in the little
nylon guide on the inside door pull mounting bracket and not binding
anywhere.

\\ Mark


> The problem sounds like you need to adjust the locking mechanism in
> the door first. You cannot cure this with a lock module. You need to
> get the service manual to properly do all of the adjustments. Be
> careful the stainless steel edges inside the door are SHARP.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 02:37:48 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: removing the air deflector

Hello all,

can someone please explain to me how to take the driver's side door air 
deflector out?  i have a new one but cannot figure out how to remove the old 
one without tearing the entire door apart.  i have the big trim piece on the 
arm rest taken off (just that was almost fatal) and i removed the top screw 
which is to the side of the air deflector.  it's loose, but i can't figure 
out how to get it out of the metal frames.

if you can help, you should probably reply to me privately so as not to 
clutter the list:-)

thanks!
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 16:44:47 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Hylomar

I would like to hear from anyone with experiance using Hylomar. I used 
it to rebuild two final drives, 2 rear axles and a transfer case. The 
rears and transfer case were not on Deloreans. EVERYONE LEAKS. I have 
not resealed the final drives (too much work) but I had to reseal the 
rears and case (they leaked TOO MUCH). After this I won't use Hylomar 
again! Please post any comments about how you have sealed a final 
drive and what you used. Now I understand why all Deloreans seem to 
leak, it is the Hylomar. I have gone back to using a good brand of 
silicone sealer (sensor safe). It is also clear why Jaguars leak, they 
use Hylomar too, in fact that's where I got the stuff.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 09:19:26 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Lube on the studs

John is a lucky guy, we can't all be that lucky, I still say NO WD-40 on
the studs.  I've done a lot of this stuff for a lot of years and I'm not
very lucky so I have to be very careful, and (hopefully) very right!

Les




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 17:24:44 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Hylomar

Hmmmm...I am interested in this response too since I just put my 
Manual transmission back together using Hylomar on the mating surface 
of the two transmission case halves. I also used it in conjunction 
with the paper seals for the Bell housing and end cover (where the 
shifting is). I didn't install the transmission yet and it's sitting 
on my work bench so if there is a problem I won't curse to much since 
it's not in the car yet ;). I think the Hylomar is only good on 
Machined smooth gasketless surfaces (such as the manual transmissing 
casing halves are). As for anywhere else that has a gasket, I would 
not use Hylomar alone (even though it says you can). I know if you 
put to much of it on then you can cause a problem where it will keep 
the mating surfaces to far apart from each other and cause small 
gaps. You have to use THE LEAST amount of this stuff.

Steve

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jtrealty_at_dml_w... wrote:
> I would like to hear from anyone with experiance using Hylomar. I 
used 
> it to rebuild two final drives, 2 rear axles and a transfer case. 
The 
> rears and transfer case were not on Deloreans. EVERYONE LEAKS. I 
have 
> not resealed the final drives (too much work) but I had to reseal 
the 
> rears and case (they leaked TOO MUCH). After this I won't use 
Hylomar 
> again! Please post any comments about how you have sealed a final 
> drive and what you used. Now I understand why all Deloreans seem to 
> leak, it is the Hylomar. I have gone back to using a good brand of 
> silicone sealer (sensor safe). It is also clear why Jaguars leak, 
they 
> use Hylomar too, in fact that's where I got the stuff.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 11:28:37 -0600
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: re: Hylomar

I used it when I rebuild my trans last year. Yeah - it
leaks very slightly, not enough to note on the floor but there is always a
drop "dangling" underneath.  I just wrote it off to the gasketless design of
the split-case, and figured that nothing else would do any better.
Every DMC I've ever been under has the same leak. The only one I've ever
seen that didn't was a car with less than 2000 miles on it, the trans has
probably never been hot.

The fact that the case design has the lube sitting on the seam at all times
is kind of an invitation to leak. I was impressed that the Hylomar that I
took out was just as soft as the new stuff. Based on other experience,
Silicone will eventually split and leak under these conditions, usually a
lot worse. It may take longer to start though.

Too bad there's no way to put a gasket in there, but due to gear tolerances
you couldn't do it. That's probably why split-case (as opposed to
side-loader) transmission designs are so rare.

Dave Swingle


----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 10:44 AM
Subject: Hylomar


I would like to hear from anyone with experiance using Hylomar.




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 17:33:39 -0000
From: edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: cv boots

Does any one know where I can get replacement cv boots. The outer one
is cracked. I email someone from the mid-state web site but no
responce.  Ed  VIN 16228




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 10:46:22 -0500
From: "Drinkware" <marvin_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: need email address

I'm looking for an e-mail address for Gerry Rine of Columbus, Ohio. He has worked on my cars previously, but I have misplaced his information. Please contact me directly. Thanks. 

Marvin Stein #4239
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 22:51:30 -0500
From: Willie Mack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: D-1

*****  Moderator's Note  ******
This will not start a new thread bashing DeLorean One.  I passed it on 
to the list because it contains actual documentation from DeLorean One.

Mike G.
*****

To all the Delorean Owners on this list.   I recently had an unpleasant
event with Delorean One in California.  I would like to present to you what
happened.  I apologize for this email being so long.


This is a copy of the first email i received from Delorean One.
Please be advised that your order has been received and all parts are in
stock for immediate shipment.
However, a review of the pricing schedule indicates that two of the part
numbers have incorrect prices:  Part Number 102283 - should be $1.53 each
and Part Number 102284 - should be $3.08 each.
After correcting the incorrect part prices, your total order is $51.72 plus
shipping.
Do you still want us to process the order reflecting the $6.42 increase in
cost?

Please advise.

Thank you,
DeLorean One


This is my response to Delorean One.
Yes, i would like to still have my order proccessed.  However i feel that
your company should update there information better in the future.  This is
false advertising, and unfair.  You can't change the price on something,
after
someone has already placed in order.  I am disappointed in your company
and will shop from DMC Houston from now on.
 Willie Mack


Edward Bernstein's response to my email.
Dear Mr. Mack,
It is unfortunate that you do not understand that an error in our data base
had been made.

Please be advised that your order has been completely cancelled.
You are free to place all orders for your DeLorean automobile parts and
service through any supplier you wish.

We are no longer interested in processing orders from you in the future.  It
appears that you feel that your order of miscellaneous DeLorean automobile
parts is of a great significance to a parts supplier and that if you cannot
take advantage of them by insisting that you should get an item at an
erroneous price because of a mistake in the data base, that they do not
deserve your business.

Fortunately for you, there are several DeLorean parts vendors from who you
can purchase parts and who may be willing to accept your childlike attitude.
We are confident that all your parts and service requirements in the future
can be satisfied by any other DeLorean parts and service vendor except
DeLorean One.

By the way, based upon the parts you indicated that you required, you will
probably not be in a position to complete any meaningful repairs on you car
without additional parts and some very professional advice.

Happy Motoring,
DeLorean One


After receiving this email i called Mr. Bernstein and inquired about the
email he had sent me.  He proceeded to yell and use profanity towards me.
He told me repeatedly that he doesn't need my business and doesn't want my
business.  So i have taken it on myself to get the word out about what kind
of business Delorean One really is.
I have delt with DMC Houston on a number of occassions and they have gone
out of there way to help me.

Thanks for listening.
Willie Mack
 Vin 5043




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:37:18 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: removing the air deflector

On mine I just drilled out the rivets.  They are standard pop-rivets and are
easily replaced.  If you don't like rivets, some small nuts & bolts should
work as well.

Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>

>it's loose, but i can't figure
>out how to get it out of the metal frames.





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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 11:08:37 -0800 (PST)
From: E Grauff <datamonk_at_dml_svn.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Lug nuts

It still helps to bring the correct torque settings to your tire
installer.  The place I went had a generic chart that showed stud size and
torque settings - turns out the DeLorean manual said a lower setting
(which I don't have with me right now.)

On Sun, 4 Feb 2001 jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net wrote:

> <SNIP>
>  As far as torqueing the wheels most shops are more concerned about a 
> wheel falling off than you removing a flat so they "go to town" and 
> really sock those wheels on.The better shops are now using Torque 
> sticks to tighten lugs. It is a colored extension that resonates when 
> you reach the desired setting, different colors indicate the torque
> of 
> each extension, they have different diameters. They really work.
> <SNIP>




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 19:23:29 -0000
From: loweryd_at_dml_nima.mil
Subject: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement

Hello list, I need to replace my exhaust manifold gaskets and was 
wondering if this is a job that can easily be done.  Is there any tips 
or tricks?  Is there anything I need to know before going into this?  
I know that the studs are on the small side and that I must be careful 
that I don't break them off. I've also purchased new studs and a 
metric helo-coil kit just in case.  If you have done this job yourself 
I would be interested in hearing your comments.

Is there some type of instructions available anywhere?

Thanks,
Dennis Lowery
Vin. 4797




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:09:09 -0500
From: "Delorean_at_dml_abato. net \(E-mail\)" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: 2 fast questions

1.  I know there is a Delorean in Reno NV, on display at some kind of car
museam.  I am going out there next week, and would like to go see it.
Anyone know where it is?
2.  Ever since the mailing list merged with Yahoo groups, I get duplicate
messages in my mailbox.  Anyone know why?




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:31:32 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: WD-40 the other side

On Sun, 4 Feb 2001, Les Huckins wrote:

> anecdote, I hope it's permissible, I have a friend who's a cop, he
> used WD-40 to oil his police special, decided to do the bullets

I'd like to mention that WD-40 isn't really an oil.  It's a decent
penetrant, but after it's been out of the can for a while, the light
components evaporate, and it turns into a sort of sticky goo.  This is why
if you oil a squeaky door or something with WD-40 after a while it will be
back worse than before.

The only thing I ever use WD-40 for any more is unsticking stuck stuff,
and even then, I prefer Liquid Wrench.




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 21:58:43 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: More work done on frame

I admire your determination and ambition on your project! I wish you 
lived closer so I could help. All I can do is give you a little 
advice. While the repair you said you did to the vacuum line would be 
adequate under normal circumstances I recomend you replace the entire 
line. Someday in the future you may develop a vacuum leak when the 
rubber line ages and not only will you or the next owner not be able 
to find it, you can't repair it without again removing the body! Since 
you are going through all of this trouble try to fix anything really 
"deep" properly so you never have to go back. You don't have to go to 
a Delorean vender for this just go to an auto supply and get some 
steel brake line and replace the whole thing or if you are really 
intent on repairing the line get some fittings and a short piece of 
steel line, flare or use compression fittings so there is no rubber in 
your repair.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., njp548_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hey List,
> 
1852
> <A 
HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 22:23:25 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer Recall (was More work ..)

I've put the stabilizer recall kit on several cars now, it's safe to 
say "They all do that". Too bad I didn't figure it out before having 
the parts powdercoated. I really hated having to file off the coating 
to elongate the hole. 

I guess we could complain to the manufacturer, but they are a little 
hard to get ahold of now. . . . 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., njp548_at_dml_a... wrote:
> installing the stabilizer bar was a pain in the neck to install.  
>For some reason the threads in the frame where the 
> bolts to secure the stabilizer clamps weren't lining up right.  I 
>had to use 
> a round file and make the holes for one of the strengthening plates 
>bigger in 
> order to get it to work




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:41:46 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: removing the air deflector

I just drilled out the rivets, and I noticed that the holes that the rivets 
are in are threaded on my car, and the screws that fit into them are part # 
SP10457.  Fit perfectly.  Hope that helps.

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 19:46:11 -0000
From: loweryd_at_dml_nima.mil
Subject: Re: Matching tyres in the UK

Nigel, I am looking for a new set of tires as well.  I checked 
www.tirerack.com and they still have the correct size yokohama AVS 
Intermediate tires available to ship($62 front, $80 rear, $25 for 
shipping)to me in the United States. I also called Yokohama 
(800-722-9888)and they said that they indeed "slowed down" production 
of the AVS Intermediate and that they will replace that tire line with 
another sometime this year. 
Maybe thee tire rack can ship overseas to you.  That seems like an 
excellent price!

good luck,
Dennis Lowery
Vin 4797
> 
> Has anyone replaced their tyres recently?
> 
> I've so far spent over a week trying to find matching front and 
rears only to be told that Yokohama no longer make rears, and Michelin 
are so far not yet available in the UK.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Nigel
> 
> vin 02677
> 
> license plate 'DOC 16V'




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:59:37 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Stabilizer Recall (was More work ..)

In a message dated 2/5/01 5:45:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com writes:

<< Too bad I didn't figure it out before having 
 the parts powdercoated. I really hated having to file off the coating 
 to elongate the hole.  >>
Yeah I know what you mean.  I had my strenthening plates along with the 
clamps and the stabilizer bar powdercoated in a black wrinkle, to match all 
the other suspension parts I had powdercoated, they all came out really good. 
 I wish I knew ahead of time that I needed to make the holes in that 
strengthenin plate larger.

And to answer David Tieitelbaum,  I tried to get the complete line from DMC 
Houston, but they didn't have one.  The piece that I replaced is the rear 
most part of the line, so I am sure that if it does need replacing in the 
future, it won't be that hard to replace.  Also the line that I had to fix is 
the one for the brake servo, and I doubt there is a brake line thick enough 
for that.  Also if I do have to remove the body to get to this line again, 
I've done it before so no biggy  :)

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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