From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 401
Date: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 11:24 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: 2 fast questions
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>

2. Re: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement
From: mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net

3. Re: Yoko Tires
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

4. Re: WD-40 Goo?
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

5. No smog III
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

6. Yoko Numbers
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

7. Re: Digest Number 399
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_redcelsius.com>

8. Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: Cold engine and smoke
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: D-1
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

11. Zilla Says Howdy to All + Walt
From: ZillaDelorean_at_dml_aol.com

12. Great Alarm available for D
From: thai vu <thaiqvu_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

14. Re: ETDOC- February Meet
From: "Tom Long" <trl2_at_dml_mindspring.com>

15. fender on eBay
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_home.com>

16. Intermittant tail light
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

17. Engine/tranny installed
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Intermittant tail light
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

19. Idle speed ECU IC's
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

20. Re: Great Alarm available for D
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

21. Intermittant lights
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

22. Re: fender on eBay
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

23. RE: Auto trans governor problems
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org>

24. Re: WD-40 Goo?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

25. New Lubricant
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 07:53:56 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
Subject: Re: 2 fast questions

The Delorean was in Harahs auto museum.  I was the one of the Gold Ds.
Don't know if it is still open,  I heard they turned the whole thing over to
the state to run.  I have
heard that it is still open.

PS> Check out the PPG pace car near the D.   It has D doors on it!

Bob Brandys




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 09:37:11 -0500
From: mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement

 
>Dear Dennis,
1. SOAK all fastners (bolts and studs) with penatrating oil.
2. Go inside and come back the next day.
3. Get all of the tools needed: ratchet, swivil sockets, deep sockets, spare nuts and bolts.
4. Sweep your floor, helps you find nuts and bolts when dropped.
5. Raise car as far up as you can.  Helps ya get to where ya need to get.
6. Take exhaust bolts off, then cross over pipe bolts and the exhaust manifold will come out.  You will soon see which manifold port was leaking.
7. Takes about an hour and a half of rolling around on the floor when it all said and done, thats's per sie.

jim sawyer
vin4149
"ELMO 
__________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 06:58:55 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: Yoko Tires

Mine are A378 60 (touring)




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 07:11:11 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: WD-40 Goo?

I guess any lubricant can be called goo, we of the electronic repair
persuasion call it a film of lubricant that helps retard oxidization and
maintain conductivity.  One point, that should end this, I use it on
watches (and clocks).  When my Seiko wrist watch quit some years back
the pinpoint oiler didn't do a thing but a shot of WD-40 has kept it
100%.  I've done many other watches since and I could bore you with the
many fixes I've done with my trusty WD-40 but I've probably done that
already, right!




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 07:25:24 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: No smog III

Took the brute into ProTech yesterday at the appointed hour...alas, they
didn't have the right gas for their testing machine.  I'm to call today
after 4:00 to see if that oversight has been corrected, and if so, make
an appointment for tomorrow.

Described my spring fix to the group, offering pix and specs, no
responses.

Now, what about you, are you going Bionic tomorrow or are they going to
patch or what?

I'm in the scary process of removing the alarm from the D,  one wire at
a time, I have about 6 to go, will finish that task today (I hope).

Preditory Prodigal




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 08:18:10 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Yoko Numbers

Should have included the sizes: P235/60 R15   98H and P195/60 R14  85H




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 10:42:32 -0500
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_redcelsius.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 399

Dennis,

Chances are that if you need to replace your manifold gaskets, you probably
have broken studs.  When I did mine, the broken studs were easy enough to
remove by drilling into the stud and using an extractor.  Unfortunately, I
could not get the necessary clearance to get a drill in (frame got in the
way) so I ended up removing the engine.  I'm sure this was an extreme
measure, but it really wasn't all that difficult, and it gave me the
opportunity to really clean up the engine and bay.  I'm not recommending
that you remove the engine for this job, but be aware that clearance for
tools or torches is pretty tight in some cases.   At any rate, once I had
the engine out, it was a five minute job to remove all the studs (broken or
otherwise) and they all came out without a fight.  One final thought... soak
the studs and bolts in penetrating fluid several times before you go at it
(I'm sure you would have anyways).

Good luck,
Eric Hennebury
VIN 17065

> Message: 18
>    Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 19:23:29 -0000
>    From: loweryd_at_dml_nima.mil
> Subject: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement
>
> Hello list, I need to replace my exhaust manifold gaskets and was
> wondering if this is a job that can easily be done.  Is there any tips
> or tricks?  Is there anything I need to know before going into this?
> I know that the studs are on the small side and that I must be careful
> that I don't break them off. I've also purchased new studs and a
> metric helo-coil kit just in case.  If you have done this job yourself
> I would be interested in hearing your comments.
>
> Is there some type of instructions available anywhere?
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis Lowery
> Vin. 4797





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 10:06:22 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?

Your door lock problem will be corrected by replacing the door lock
solenoid.

For more information check out my article: Unlock Your Door Mysteries
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/doorlock.html

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2001 5:33 PM
Subject: [DML] Lock Probs, most likely module?


Hi all,

My passenger side lock does not fully lock or
unlock when activated either by the driver's side lock or by the
keyless entry (Alpine). The solenoid does move the button half way,
kind of in a half locked position.

What do ya think? Zilla it? Anything in particular I should fiddle
with first?

Tyler
#3472





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 10:09:55 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Cold engine and smoke

Erik,

What color is the smoke ?

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 1:05 PM
Subject: [DML] Cold engine and smoke


> Hello,
> When I start my Delorean after a week or so of not driving it, a lot 
> of exhaust smoke comes out.  It's not a bad looking smoke, just a lot 
> of exhaust.  Is this normal?  Once the engine warms up or when I 
> start to drive, it is fine.  Also, when it is cold it tends to 
> hesitate a bid in first.  It will never stall or loose total power, 
> just hesitate a bid when I give it some gas.
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Erik Geerdink
> 4512





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 12:20:10 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: D-1

Willie,

I am responding to this message because you singled out DMC Houston from the
rest of the DeLorean parts suppliers.

As a DeLorean parts vendor I spend a good part of my day talking to DeLorean
parts suppliers, customers, and other vendors around the world. Parts price
lists, are strictly for reference. It is extremely difficult to maintain an
"up to date" price list when you are dealing with thousands and thousands of
parts that come from hundreds of suppliers, fueled by a fluctuating consumer
market. Sometimes just a clerical error is to blame.

As you indicated DeLorean One said:
"After correcting the incorrect part prices, your total order is $51.72 plus
shipping. Do you still want us to process the order reflecting the $6.42
increase in
cost?"

I believe this to be fair and reasonable way to do business.  My company,
DeLorean Services and, I think, most of the other major vendors share my
thoughts. Concerning the remainder of your experience; if you made the same
statements mentioned above to me instead of Ed Burnstein I probably would be
just as upset.

DMC Joe (Joe LoRe')
De Lorean Services / <dmjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Willie Mack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 10:51 PM
Subject: [DML] D-1


> *****  Moderator's Note  ******
> This will not start a new thread bashing DeLorean One.  I passed it on
> to the list because it contains actual documentation from DeLorean One.
>
> Mike G.
> *****
>
> To all the Delorean Owners on this list.   I recently had an unpleasant
> event with Delorean One in California.  I would like to present to you
what
> happened.  I apologize for this email being so long.
>
>
> This is a copy of the first email i received from Delorean One.
> Please be advised that your order has been received and all parts are in
> stock for immediate shipment.
> However, a review of the pricing schedule indicates that two of the part
> numbers have incorrect prices:  Part Number 102283 - should be $1.53 each
> and Part Number 102284 - should be $3.08 each.
> After correcting the incorrect part prices, your total order is $51.72
plus
> shipping.
> Do you still want us to process the order reflecting the $6.42 increase in
> cost?
>
> Please advise.
>
> Thank you,
> DeLorean One
>
>
> This is my response to Delorean One.
> Yes, i would like to still have my order proccessed.  However i feel that
> your company should update there information better in the future.  This
is
> false advertising, and unfair.  You can't change the price on something,
> after
> someone has already placed in order.  I am disappointed in your company
> and will shop from DMC Houston from now on.
>  Willie Mack
>
>
> Edward Bernstein's response to my email.
> Dear Mr. Mack,
> It is unfortunate that you do not understand that an error in our data
base
> had been made.
>
> Please be advised that your order has been completely cancelled.
> You are free to place all orders for your DeLorean automobile parts and
> service through any supplier you wish.
>
> We are no longer interested in processing orders from you in the future.
It
> appears that you feel that your order of miscellaneous DeLorean automobile
> parts is of a great significance to a parts supplier and that if you
cannot
> take advantage of them by insisting that you should get an item at an
> erroneous price because of a mistake in the data base, that they do not
> deserve your business.
>
> Fortunately for you, there are several DeLorean parts vendors from who you
> can purchase parts and who may be willing to accept your childlike
attitude.
> We are confident that all your parts and service requirements in the
future
> can be satisfied by any other DeLorean parts and service vendor except
> DeLorean One.
>
> By the way, based upon the parts you indicated that you required, you will
> probably not be in a position to complete any meaningful repairs on you
car
> without additional parts and some very professional advice.
>
> Happy Motoring,
> DeLorean One
>
>
> After receiving this email i called Mr. Bernstein and inquired about the
> email he had sent me.  He proceeded to yell and use profanity towards me.
> He told me repeatedly that he doesn't need my business and doesn't want my
> business.  So i have taken it on myself to get the word out about what
kind
> of business Delorean One really is.
> I have delt with DMC Houston on a number of occassions and they have gone
> out of there way to help me.
>
> Thanks for listening.
> Willie Mack
>  Vin 5043






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 14:27:56 EST
From: ZillaDelorean_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Zilla Says Howdy to All + Walt

Hello to everyone on the DML,
THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT OVER THE MANY YEARS.

I've been on the sidelines for some weeks now.
I was going to say Hi to the DML audience when the Zilla site was completed,  
but it's not ready just yet.  
I'll post everyone when the site's up.  
deloreanparts.com

However,  Walt has inspired me to post.

FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANTLY :
Zilla stands behind EVERY product we make. 
If ANYONE EVER has a problem,  you will be assisted PRONTO.
Happy Zilla owners is job 1 .  These are not just words.
No owner of any of our products should EVER feel the need to service it 
himself under ANY circumstances. 
It's OUR problem not yours.


Dear Walt,
Clearly, you have a defective Tank Sending unit.
You should have called and sent it back for a replacement.
It's that simple.
Your time is valuable. I'd prefer to see you direct your energy toward 
designing solutions to unresolved DeLorean problems.

Walt, You wrote:
"The Zilla interface box that comes with the Tankzilla Sender inverts and 
expands the scale to match the OEM unit.  This was quite a feat of 
engineering, and I applaud whoever designed it."
Thank you for your kind words. Yes, It was quite a technical challenge. It 
took a long time to perfect.

You said:
"I would like to see someone design a solid state fuel sending unit that uses
inter-electrode capacitance.  
It is very do-able and could be retailed for a whole lot cheaper than the 
Tankzilla."

REALITY CHECK
Zilla Products are a Team effort. Each Design is refined over many years 
BEFORE it's introduction.  Engineering & tooling have to be amortized over 
many years to even hope to recoup these costs. There were only a handful of 
DeLoreans made when compared to most production cars. It's a VERY small 
market supporting sizable development costs. This kind of risk vs. return 
makes most people reach for the TUMS.  Sure we could use cheaper components, 
but not if they are designed to outlast the car. Nearly EVERY component used 
is Military Grade. We could use cheaper labor, but not if you expect quality. 
 We Carefully Design exactly what's needed to properly solve the problem. No 
more no less. Attention to detail is expensive. You get what you're paying 
for. Though I may make this appear to be FUN, it's an enormous amount of 
work. Money was lost for MANY years before we broke even.
IF,  when it comes to making Zillas Cheaper,
HIGH QUALITY
LONGEVITY
PERFORMANCE
EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE
and MANY Years of service to the DeLorean Community
is important to anyone, than attempting to do it cheaper is not better.

Walt, 
you suggested a while ago that LockZilla needs to sense a malfunction in the 
door lock mechanism and keep kicking the lock till it locks. This "over 
design" adds to the cost and is excessive. 
May I suggest that you FIX YOUR DOOR MECHANISM.


REDESIGNING THE WHEEL:
It saddens me to see such gifted technical owners focusing such energy to 
circumvent existing time proven solutions to D problems. 
Suggesting that others redesign the same parts is not the best focus for your 
technical skills.
The illusion of saving a buck fades when enough DeLorean Parts manufacturers 
quit.
Less than a handful remain.
There are no riches here. You do it for love.
When the love's gone, it's over.
No sane Manufacturing & Engineering company will pick up the ball at this 
point.


I don't always have a chance to view posts to the DML
If you want to drop me a line for ANY reason
ZillaDelorean_at_dml_aol.com   Place the word Zilla in the "Subject" line
or better yet   email at the    deloreanparts.com   site.
But my favorite is still an old fashioned call   843-650-5700    11-6  M-F

Hey Walt, why not give me a call ?
All the best,
Bob Zilla



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 12:18:27 -0800 (PST)
From: thai vu <thaiqvu_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Great Alarm available for D

Hi Group,
Just to help out with the all D owners, I have found
out an Alarm that is VERY easy to install and set up
for our D and it works wonderful.  

It has 2 four-button/4-channel remotes, VERY compact
to install right in the electrical bay area (behind
passenger side).  One simple, compact unit with
BUILT-IN (no seperate unit to install)'2-zone Shock
Sensor' & 'Shock Learning', parking lights output,
Dome Light supervision, Anti-Carjack,...on and on... 
The best part is it's VERY, VERY easy to install on a
D and extremely reliable.  You can even program new
remote(s) if you loose yours.  I used this for my
remote operated door opener (press a button on the
remote, and the doors open - without ever using the
door handles)...  People are amazed whenever I open my
doors.

A good friend of mine can buy the alarms directly from
the manufacturer at $99.95 + $5.00 S&H (in the US). 
It retails for around $200 - $250.  I installed it on
my D (about a year ago)and extremely happy with it. 
It comes with evrything you need including the very
compact siren/horn.  While installed on mine, I marked
down all the wires color to connect with the alarm - I
will make copy and send it along with the
instructions.
  
If you need the alarm, e-mail me privately at: 
TVDMC_at_dml_YAHOO.COM





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/



________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 20:34:15 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement

Even with the best penetrating fluid I find that it is sometimes 
impossible to remove some exhaust hardware. I like to heat parts up 
with a torch to dull cherry red. It saves rounding off nuts,
stripping 
threads, breaking studs, and scrapped knuckles. The downside is the 
fire danger to rubber lines or fuel lines and the chance of burning 
your hands. If you break off studs be prepared to drill out the
broken 
part, no small task considering the weird angles, tight space, and
the 
fact that you are drilling out a steel stud in an aluminum casting. 
You must be "dead on" and stay there, no small feat in a confined 
space. Then you must be able to get a larger drill in there and then
a 
tap followed by the insert and tool, not a very desireable scenerio
so 
just don't break any studs! Check the manifold for flatness after 
removing, if it has been leaking a long time it may not be flat in 
which case it may be necessary to take it to a machine shop to take a 
light cut to flatten it out if it is too much to do with a hand file. 
When replacing use Never-seize or something similar on the hardware
so 
it is easier to take it apart in the future. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., mrvideosawyer_at_dml_n... wrote:
>  
> >Dear Dennis,
> 1. SOAK all fastners (bolts and studs) with penatrating oil.
> 2. Go inside and come back the next day.
Takes about an hour and a half of rolling around on the floor 
when it all said and done, thats's per sie.
> 
> jim sawyer
> vin4149
> "ELMO 
> __________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 16:55:43 -0500
From: "Tom Long" <trl2_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: ETDOC- February Meet

Aaron,
I'm glad to hear that you are trying to start up an eastern Tennessee DOC.
My best wishes to you.
You all might be interested to know that the Southeastern DeLorean Owners
Club is having their first gathering of the year at John Jordan's house in
Lawrenceville on Saturday, Feb. 10.  at 5PM.  His address is 646 Singley
Drive.  Singley Drive is off of Five Forks Trickum Road, about halfway
between Ronald Reagan Parkway and Sugarloaf Parkway.  Call John at
770-985-9476 if you think you might come.

Then, the ETDOC and anyone else would be welcome to join us in the big
Atlanta, Buckhead Saint Patrick's Day parade on March 17.  We have been in
this parade for many years, but this year, our resident Irishman, John
Jordan, is on the planning committee and he has arranged special attention
to our Irish cars.  This is always a very rewarding event to participate in.
Come on down you all.

Tom Long, President of SEDOC.  phone: 770-449-1968

 ----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Posey" <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: "frederick m rahn" <rickaye1_at_dml_juno.com>; "Duke Bladorn"
<at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com>; "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_email.msn.com>; "daniel
hecht" <danielhecht_at_dml_mindspring.com>; "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi_at_dml_mindspring.com>;
"Brandon Moody" <bsmoody_at_dml_kih.net>; "Joe Palatinus"
<jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>; "John Schwab" <jschwab_at_dml_utk.edu>; "Rodger
Vannatter" <rivwindance_at_dml_earthlink.net>; "John Weaver" <deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com>
Cc: "DeLorean Mailing List" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 12:24 AM
Subject: [DML] ETDOC- February Meet


> Hey all-
>
> I am Aaron Posey in Knoxville, TN, and some of us local
> owners are starting to organize the East Tennessee DeLorean
> Owners Club-
>
> I would very much like to have a gathering this month of
> all the local owners.  Since there aren't as many
> activities and shows now as there are in the summertime; I
> thought this would be a good time as any to have a get
> together.
>
> Here is the plan-
>
> Meet Sunday, Feb 25th around 10:3-am in Knoxville at
> Rodgers Cadillac, 8360 Kingston Pike (email me for
> directions individually). Just spend enough time at Rodgers
> so that everyone can get there.
>
> Approx 11:30-12pm, leave to go to group lunch downtown
> Knoxville.  I haven't decided on a place; however,
> Tennessee Grill is what I am leaning towards. It is new and
> very good.  They have valet parking, but I will ask to see
> if we can park our own cars if each D owner wishes- should
> not be a problem.
>
> After lunch I felt like a nice cruise in the DeLoreans
> would be in order!  Head on the back roads to Gatlinburg
> then on into the Smokies for a while. Coming back through
> Gatlinburg we would stop at the Cars of the Stars Museum
> where they are supposed to have a DeLorean on display. I
> will call to confirm this. I will also check to see if
> there are any group rates and such.
>
> I would like as many as possible to attend the gathering.
> In your DeLorean or not please show! I want to try and
> accomodate everyone, so if anyone has any suggestions
> please let me know. Enthusiasts and owners are all welcome!
>
> Aaron Posey
> ETDOC
> www.etdoc.com  <still under construction!>
> cadysrme (at) yahoo.com
>
> 800 936 6904 Monday-Saturday(9-6)
> 865 310 2228 anytime
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 14:57:29 -0700
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: fender on eBay

Hey everyone,

Iíve put a right front fender on eBay.  Itís got two small dents, one on
each side of the wheel well as a result of being sideswiped at 35 MPH.  I
got a great deal on a brand new one, so I did that rather than repair my
original.  Therefore, I just want to get rid of the slightly damaged one to
recoup a bit of my cost in purchasing the new one.  I have no need for two
fenders.  Drop me an e-mail with any questions.  View the auction at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=556350547
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=556350547
>  .  The auction runs through next Tuesday.

Thanks,

Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
Arizona DeLorean Club


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 14:43:18 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Intermittant tail light

Day 13, my first actual repair.  Left tail light didn't work.  Easy
access, easy repair.  Take out the 6 screws, push gently on the plastic
catch on the inside, unplug the connector and you've got the board and
bulbs in your hands.  The way this is made, many bad or intermittent
connections have to occur on these light assemblies.  Much riveting, no
soldering.  I hooked up the board without the lenses and my tail light
would come on by moving the socket.  Bad, connection to the shell of the
bulb.  The solution, solder it.  Clean off a little spot on each side of
the socket shell and strip, (sand it, scrape it, whatever) and solder it
to the strip.  When you solder, use soldering paste, no acid flux or
core.  I don't really want a big argument about using paste, I'm older
than you and I've been doing it longer than you and I don't want to
explain the why of it at this time, maybe later.  Thanks.




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 17:59:10 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Engine/tranny installed

Hey List,

       I had a good day today working on the frame.  I was finally able to 
install the engine and the tranny.  What I had to do first was separate the 
engine and the tranny and to put grease on the throwout bearing contacts and 
the primary shaft splines and also the pivot ball for the clutch fork, I 
forgot to do that the first time.  Then I had to connect the engine and 
tranny by myself...not a fun job.  Anyways, its almost done now!  Tomorrow I 
should be able to get the tranny linkage complete, and then run the heater 
feed and return lines, then the a/c lines, then the ss braided clutch line, 
and finally the inner drive shafts and it should be ready for this sunday.  
Thats all for now.  If anyone has any questions feel free to e-mail me 
directly.  

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 23:27:50 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Intermittant tail light

Even easier way to fix your tail lights.

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tailights.htm

Simple, quicker, and cleaner. I also used a mixture of 50/50 isopropyl 
alcohol and water to clean the contacts on boards. My lights never 
flickered again. Just make sure when you do this that you also check 
the switch on the brake pedal. Over time it can come loose and also 
cause your brake lights to flicker as well. A quick twist to screw it 
back down will stop it from reoccuring.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Day 13, my first actual repair.  Left tail light didn't work.  Easy
> access, easy repair.  Take out the 6 screws, push gently on the...
<SNIP>




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 15:36:09 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Idle speed ECU IC's

Local Radio Shack had 3 sets, I took one, believing you never use the
parts you have, always something you don't have.  Radio Shack numbers
are 276-1711 and 276-1712.  Prices have gone up, one was 99 cents, the
other 1.29.  There are two more sets if anyone wants my version of cheap
insurance...should be a little under $5 with shipping if you would like
me to get them for you, tuck them in a little bubble mailer and get them
on their way.




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 18:45:45 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Great Alarm available for D

Funny you should mention this.

Actually i have reserved a day to get a Clifford Intelligaurd 6000 installed 
in my DeLorean.  the cost will be about $350 installed (you can't buy them 
and put them in yourself, or else the warranty will be void), but to me i 
think it is worth it since i am a college student and i am often at places 
where people like to break into other people's cars:-)

features include two 4-button remotes, valet mode, dual-zone piezo impact 
sensor, glass tamper circuit, timers, dual point immobilization with starter 
and ignition kill, anti-false memory, diagnositics and computer interface.  
pretty high tech!

i'm getting it installed on march 6th.  i'll be sure to let everyone know how 
well it works with a DeLorean - i have a feeling they'll be calling me up 
saying they can't get something to work because they don't understand the 
car's wiring....

later,
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 16:00:09 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Intermittant lights

Wasn't the contacts Robert (I use WD-40 on those) was where the bulb
socket was riveted to the strip, you have two choices there, either
smack the rivets with something and hope to restore the connection
without breaking the board or solder.




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 21:01:21 -0500
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: fender on eBay

Just a thought since we just went through this on the Karmann Ghia list.  If
you have something you want to get rid of why not offer it to the list
before you put it up on ebay.  When I see someone saying that they have
something on ebay it is the same as them saying here is what I have now
start the bidding and give me lots of money.  I am not trying to single
anyone out or trying to start a big flame war, just something to think
about.




Andrei

      By Land                         or                       By Sea
1990 Nissan 240sx                              1988 Kawasaki 650sx StandUp
1988 Nissan 300z                                1978 Luhrs 25' Express Deck
1981 DeLorean 2767                           1978 Mako 22' CC
2x 1974 VW Karmann Ghia coups
1972 Supper Beelte
1969 VW Beetle



----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_home.com>
To: "DeLorean Mailing List" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 4:57 PM
Subject: [DML] fender on eBay


Hey everyone,

I've put a right front fender on eBay.  It's got two small dents, one on
each side of the wheel well as a result of being sideswiped at 35 MPH.  I
got a great deal on a brand new one, so I did that rather than repair my
original.  Therefore, I just want to get rid of the slightly damaged one to
recoup a bit of my cost in purchasing the new one.  I have no need for two
fenders.  Drop me an e-mail with any questions.  View the auction at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=556350547
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=556350547
>  .  The auction runs through next Tuesday.

Thanks,

Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
Arizona DeLorean Club


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 21:22:17 -0600
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org>
Subject: RE: Auto trans governor problems

Ok I am a bit confused.  In the original info on the DMCNEWS site you say
between pins 1 and 4 - in here you reference pins 3 and 4.  Could you
clarify please.  ( I actually assume that 1 and 4 is correct based on other
op amps ) Incidentally that would be a no I didn't put in the .1 uF caps.  I
am going to remove the GC again and try to resolder all connections but
pulling the boards out far enough has been a real pain.  The epoxy or
whatever within the strain relief has a death grip.  It was quite
interesting just replacing the caps and transistors.  BTW Is it possible
that I have reversed the caps?

I know the problem is heat related in some way due to the way and timing of
it.  It is very consistent.  If the car is cool no probs.  Once it gets hot
it will not go to 3rd, and from 1st to 2nd is sluggish.  Solder joints do
seem a likely culprit.  Hopefully I will get it all fixed this weekend.
Would really like to get to the fuel sender.

Thanks for all the help.

BTW I did disconnect the open throttle micro switch.  No change. :(
Matthew L. Walker
VIN #1219
<snip>

>Did you add the .1 microfarad caps  across pins 3 and 4 >of the 6-pin
>comparator chips? Greatly improved overall stability. Could have cold
solder
>joint somewhere on the board that opens up with heat. Most likely spot is
>where the inter-board jumpers solder on the boards. Been suspicious of
<snip>




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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 04:34:21 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: WD-40 Goo?

Lee, I would like to confirm the usages for WD40. I have sold it in 
55 gallon drums and 3oz packages for 24 years in the electronic 
industry. Great for almost anything. 
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Home of The Fan Fix


the  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I guess any lubricant can be called goo, we of the electronic repair
> persuasion call it a film of lubricant that helps retard 
oxidization and
> maintain conductivity.  One point, that should end this, I use it on
> watches (and clocks).  When my Seiko wrist watch quit some years 
back
> the pinpoint oiler didn't do a thing but a shot of WD-40 has kept it
> 100%.  I've done many other watches since and I could bore you with 
the
> many fixes I've done with my trusty WD-40 but I've probably done 
that
> already, right!




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 04:45:56 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: New Lubricant

Group, I all my probing around for parts and new products, I found a 
lubricant for the tight places,thats heavier than WD40. It's called 
WURTH, HHS 2000. This product is great. It sprays on like penetrating 
oil but sets up like a grease. Can says: Lubricant, resistive to high 
pressure and with high adhesive strength. Penetrates into the 
tightest areas easily and sets into a high temp grease. Unaffected by 
temperatures from -95 degree F. to + 392 degree F. Think of the 
places: air duct hings, engine compartment hinges, brass bearings in 
motors so on.
John Hervey
P.S. I will put it on the web site.
www.specialTauto.com

     




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