From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 402
Date: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:26 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Great Alarm available for D
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net

2. Re: Auto trans governor problems
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo_at_dml_thehersheys.com>

3. Re: Intermittant lights
From: ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: installing a Car-Alarm
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

5. 1981 DMC for sale
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Bob Zilla
From: seanm_at_dml_atlcom.net

7. Re: Windshield washer loose
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: Intermittant tail light
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: Intermittant tail light
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. Intermittant tail lights II
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

11. New Parts
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

12. Spray oil/grease
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

13. Re: Intermittant tail light
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Re: Re: Great Alarm available for D
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Cold engine and smoke
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Hylomar
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

17. Yokohama Tires
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

18. Re: Auto trans governor problems
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>

19. DeLorean One
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie_at_dml_PNDC.org>

20. Locktite & Hylomar
From: "PJ Grady" <pjgrady_at_dml_attglobal.net>

21. DOA Treasurers report was( DeLorean One)
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055_at_dml_juno.com>

22. RE: Auto trans governor problems
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org>

23. interesting item on e-bay
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

24. Re: Re: Great Alarm available for D
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

25. Re: DOA Treasurers report was( DeLorean One)
From: raddad_at_dml_cmn.net





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 06:22:19 -0000
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net
Subject: Re: Great Alarm available for D

I remember seeing an add for a Delorean on AutoTrader several weeks 
back with just such a feature. I've been wondering about it and 
havent found anything. I thought I heard that Zilla was working on 
something. 

How did you hook your system hook. Do you have info and pictures.

The cool thing about this is that American auto makers have shown 
proto's forever with doors that pop open with a button but now it can 
be had.

Jeremy



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., thai vu <thaiqvu_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>   I used this for my
> remote operated door opener (press a button on the
> remote, and the doors open - without ever using the
> door handles)...  People are amazed whenever I open my
> doors.




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 01:05:17 -0600
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo_at_dml_thehersheys.com>
Subject: Re: Auto trans governor problems

Oh, geeze, sorry. It's pins 1 and 4. I need an editor. Used to be a tech
writer, now you know why I was invited to try other careers :-)

Possible you installed the caps backwards but the Tantalums would probably
tolerate and work OK anyway, at least for awhile. Wouldn't likely be
intermittent. The black rubber seals were the positive end.

\\ Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org>

> Ok I am a bit confused.  In the original info on the DMCNEWS site you say
> between pins 1 and 4 - in here you reference pins 3 and 4.  Could you
> clarify please.  ...
snip




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 04:12:53 EST
From: ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Intermittant lights

<you have two choices there, either smack the rivets with something and hope to restore the connection without breaking the board or solder.>

There's a third choice - I used a small self tapping screw up the middle of each rivet to tighten up the connection and it worked great!

Robert Lamrock
Eurofest 2001





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 10:39:35 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Re: installing a Car-Alarm

> Actually i have reserved a day to get a Clifford Intelligaurd 6000 installed
> in my DeLorean. the cost will be about $350 installed (you can't buy them 
and
> put them in yourself, or else the warranty will be void)

I had the same on my car; I have a TexAlarm-unit installed and it had to be 
done by a certified installer (insurance demanded this). 
It cost me about $500,-, but it does have a 5 year warranty and a yearly 
inspection is included (and mandatory for insurance).

> features include two 4-button remotes, valet mode,

The TexAlarm has 2 button remotes, with "comfort-mode" if the car had 
supported it (closing powerwindows and powerroof on setting the alarm), 
unfortunately the DeLorean does not support this feature. 
I'm kind of curious to the "Valet-mode", since valet parking isn't that common 
in the Netherlands  :-)

> i have a feeling they'll be calling me up saying they can't get
> something to work because they don't understand the car's wiring....

Except for the non-supported feature they got everything installed and working 
on mine. I provided them with an electrical diagram (downloaded from the 
vault) and colorcodes for it. They said they were happy to have it, especially 
when tapping into the lock-module (I am currently working on a color version 
of the diagram in a PDF-format).

They installed the ultrasonic "backwards"; the sensors are above the 
rearwindow, in fact, the only wires in front of the rear wall of the cabin are 
those leading to the LED in one of the dummy switches, the unit itself sits on 
top of the RR-wheelwell, inside the pontoon, by the wires going into the 
enginebay).

The LED signals alarm-state (on, off, automatic-ignition-cutoff after 2 
minutes), sensor trip (when tripped this signals what set off the alarm), and 
helps on programming extra remotes and shutting off the alarm without the 
remote by entering a sort of morse-code on the ignition.

The only parts visible on my car are the LED, the Ultrasonics and the Siren,
but that last one is in the enginebay, under the cover...

The only problem I have had so far is the RHS-door not allways locking, but 
this is due to a slight misalignment on the strikers I still have to work out.
Fortunately this misalignment isn't large enough to jam the mechanism, just 
make the door just a little harder to open and close...

Hope everything works out for you too, just bring along the electrical diagram 
(printed out in partson several sheets to make it larger and readable),
this helps a lot!

Greetings from The Netherlands,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

Check out the DeLorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
--------------------------------




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 03:58:03 -0800
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: 1981 DMC for sale

Group:

A while back Ken posted a 1981 DMC for sale with the owner's name and e-mail 
address.  I finally got the owner on the phone and got some info.  Too rich 
for my blood, but I thought someone else may like the info.
1981 Black interior, 5sp. 33k miles, owner has had for past 10 years, VIN 
1538, lines and gas flap in hood, original NCTs, needs some work: driver 
seat tear, speedo stopped working, all original-no updates have been done.  
Located in Ohio (less than 1 hour from me) Owner is Mike Robinson phone 
330-878-5220 e-mail is patty"at"wilkshire.net
I told him to post it on the DMCNEWS website, but I don't think he uses the 
internet much. Asking $18,000 but very negotiable.  (probably 15k)

Brian
16584
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 13:23:46 -0000
From: seanm_at_dml_atlcom.net
Subject: Bob Zilla

I just thought I should add my two bits here. I have the Tank, Fan, 
Lock, and Tailight Zillas for my car and have nothing but raves about 
the Zilla line and the people who distribute them. I did have one 
problem about one year after I purchased my TankZilla(it was sticking 
for some reason), I called Mr. Grady and he talked me throught some 
things to try. They did not work, but Grady was going to be at the 
SEDOC show the next week. Grady took time from his busy show schedule 
to open my fuel comparment and say It "might" be faulty but Ill 
switch it out anyway, no other questions asked. He changed my sender 
after a year of use with no "maybe your fuel tank is tainted and you 
need to clean it" or "you've had it for a year and it just sticks it 
still works". The people backing the Zilla line, Grady and DMCJOE, 
are always there to help in any way and are ready to make you a happy 
DeLorean owner.
Much thanks to the Zilla people for the great products, and Im 
looking forward to getting my Zilla keyless entry system.
Sean Mullins
Vin#02912 




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 07:48:55 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield washer loose

Richard,

The most common problem with the windshield washer system is a broken or
missing washer nozzle part #100806. Referring to 3/6/1 fig. 19 in the
workshop manual the nozzle attaches to the passenger side wiper blade and
sweeps a fine spray of washer fluid across the windshield when the washer
lever is pushed.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 1:37 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Windshield washer loose


> I've wondered about this problem too...I just have a hose coming up
> through the vent and nowhere to attatch it to.  The "clip" part on
> the passengers side wiper is basicaly snapped and hanging loose
> and I'm not sure what to do with it.  A description of how the
> window washer is supposed to work would help me too.  :)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Richard





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:26:50 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Intermittant tail light

Les,

The repair technique you suggest will work unfortunately it does not address
the main problem with the factory installed circuit boards. The bulb sockets
and flimsy bulb contact springs are also responsible for dim and
intermittent bulb operation.

For DeLorean owners who are not handy with tools the best solution for this
problem is to replace the circuit boards with the heavy duty updates
https://ssl.internetcreations.com/e-shop/grady/store/perlshop.cgi .

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 5:43 PM
Subject: [DML] Intermittant tail light


> Day 13, my first actual repair.  Left tail light didn't work.  Easy
> access, easy repair.  Take out the 6 screws, push gently on the plastic
> catch on the inside, unplug the connector and you've got the board and
> bulbs in your hands.  The way this is made, many bad or intermittent
> connections have to occur on these light assemblies.  Much riveting, no
> soldering.  I hooked up the board without the lenses and my tail light
> would come on by moving the socket.  Bad, connection to the shell of the
> bulb.  The solution, solder it.  Clean off a little spot on each side of
> the socket shell and strip, (sand it, scrape it, whatever) and solder it
> to the strip.  When you solder, use soldering paste, no acid flux or
> core.  I don't really want a big argument about using paste, I'm older
> than you and I've been doing it longer than you and I don't want to
> explain the why of it at this time, maybe later.  Thanks.
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 14:43:12 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Intermittant tail light

Lee, To go one step futher. When I fix the boards I hook them up on 
the bench with the voltage going to the lights and after I solder all 
the joints, I flex the board just a little , move the bulbs in the 
sockets, put in a little electrical grease in them and touch down on 
all the joints with something just to make sure all is well and 
secure. Before I started doing this, I would re assemble the light 
board just to find another problem in another spot.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Home of The Fan Fix



 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Day 13, my first actual repair.  Left tail light didn't work.  Easy
> access, easy repair.  Take out the 6 screws, push gently on the 
plastic
> catch on the inside, unplug the connector and you've got the board 
and
> bulbs in your hands.  The way this is made, many bad or intermittent
> connections have to occur on these light assemblies.  Much 
riveting, no
> soldering.  I hooked up the board without the lenses and my tail 
light
> would come on by moving the socket.  Bad, connection to the shell 
of the
> bulb.  The solution, solder it.  Clean off a little spot on each 
side of
> the socket shell and strip, (sand it, scrape it, whatever) and 
solder it
> to the strip.  When you solder, use soldering paste, no acid flux or
> core.  I don't really want a big argument about using paste, I'm 
older
> than you and I've been doing it longer than you and I don't want to
> explain the why of it at this time, maybe later.  Thanks.




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 07:31:02 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Intermittant tail lights II

First, it's very correct that the tail light circuit boards are not all
that great, but sure is an easy fix.  I agree with a screw technique as
a fix but you still have parts "leaning" against each other which is the
problem with the entire board.  If you don't solder, this will serve you
well unless you over torque and crack something and make yourself wish
you'd never done it that way.  As to replacing the entire board, one
failure in 20 years is not all that much.  I'm like the guy who rewinds
his lock solenoids, if it's possible, I'll work out a fix.  I think
that's what this forum is all about, what's the best way to do what
needs to be done and we pool our experiences to best determine what that
is.  Thanks for yours.




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 15:42:32 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: New Parts

Group, I have some good news. The De Lorean 140 alternator is no 
more. It's Now The De Lorean 150. Due to some part changes, the 
alternators are now putting out anywhere from 145 to 150 + Amps at 
2000 rpm. The ones I just built were 153 and 151. This is with a 100 
amp load. More current on the low where you need it with the new 
parts. Add this to The Fan Fix and you can have a worry free summer 
from over heating and low voltage fall out. I have also added new 
cooling fans that are a bolt on replacement and a (pulse coil ) for 
the distributor.I will have the new lubricant up on the site soon. 
I hope that these new parts and all the parts that all De Lorean 
suppliers and enthusiast are coming up with are helping all of us to 
have a more enjoyable De Lorean experience.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Home of The Fan Fix    




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 07:45:48 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Spray oil/grease

For all of you non Harley fans, the motorcycle folks have a chain lube
much like John mentioned.  Sprays on as an oil , turns to a grease.
It's important to Harley folks that their chains stay operational,
particularly on long trips.  On the road chain repairs can be messy and
often inconvenient. You buy it at motorcycle stores, of course.   I use
it on the chain drive of my garage door opener, and occasionally other
spots like the hinges and pivots, etc...good product.  Bicycle stores
also carry a chain lube but I've never used theirs so can't comment.




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 10:50:42 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Intermittant tail light

Sorry,

We sent you the incorrect link for information on the tail light circuit
boards.
The correct link is now listed below.


> Les,
>
> The repair technique you suggest will work unfortunately it does not
address
> the main problem with the factory installed circuit boards. The bulb
sockets
> and flimsy bulb contact springs are also responsible for dim and
> intermittent bulb operation.
>
> For DeLorean owners who are not handy with tools the best solution for
this
> problem is to replace the circuit boards with the heavy duty updates
> http://store.yahoo.com/dsvstore/zillalights.html.
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>






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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 10:51:07 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Great Alarm available for D

In a message dated 2/7/01 8:18:12 AM Central Standard Time, 
jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net writes:


> I remember seeing an add for a Delorean on AutoTrader several weeks 
> back with just such a feature. I've been wondering about it and 
> havent found anything. I thought I heard that Zilla was working on 
> something. 
> 
> How did you hook your system hook. Do you have info and pictures.
> 
> The cool thing about this is that American auto makers have shown 
> proto's forever with doors that pop open with a button but now it can 
> be had.
> 
> 


actually it's pretty easy.  all you need are door release actuators.  i have 
a friend who owns a 98 integra and his big plan is to get actuators for his 
entire car - trunk, doors, hood, everything.  then he wants to remove his 
door handles and weld panels over the holes for them then get it repainted so 
it looks like the car was built without door handles or latches.  pretty 
adventurous - i wonder what he'll do if the battery runs out in his car and 
he can't get in?  i imagine that doing this is pretty expensive. i should ask 
how much it costs.

andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 15:55:56 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cold engine and smoke

Erik, White smoke usually means that the oil is seeping into the 
cylinders normally from around the valve guides so: When you first 
start up you will get white smoke and then it stops after it burns 
off. This will hasten the fouling of the plugs and 02 sensor. A burnt 
looking smoke that is comming out of the tail pipe all the time is 
usually comming from around the rings due to wear.
Hope this helps, From my old engine days.
John Hervey

  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., delorean502_at_dml_e... wrote:
> Hello,
> When I start my Delorean after a week or so of not driving it, a 
lot 
> of exhaust smoke comes out.  It's not a bad looking smoke, just a 
lot 
> of exhaust.  Is this normal?  Once the engine warms up or when I 
> start to drive, it is fine.  Also, when it is cold it tends to 
> hesitate a bid in first.  It will never stall or loose total power, 
> just hesitate a bid when I give it some gas.
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Erik Geerdink
> 4512




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 16:14:35 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Hylomar

Ooops...I made a mistake. I didn't use Hylomar reasembling my manual 
transmission case, I used Anaerobic sealant as Rob Grady instructed 
me to use. Permatex P/N 51817 for a 6 ml tube and Permatex P/N 51813 
for a 50 ml tube.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> I used it when I rebuild my trans last year. Yeah - it
> leaks very slightly, not enough to note on the floor but there is 
always a
> drop "dangling" underneath.  I just wrote it off to the gasketless 
design of
> the split-case, and figured that nothing else would do any better.
> Every DMC I've ever been under has the same leak. The only one I've 
ever
> seen that didn't was a car with less than 2000 miles on it, the 
trans has
> probably never been hot.
> 
> The fact that the case design has the lube sitting on the seam at 
all times
> is kind of an invitation to leak. I was impressed that the Hylomar 
that I
> took out was just as soft as the new stuff. Based on other 
experience,
> > 
> Dave Swingle





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 17:04:26 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Yokohama Tires

There was some talk on the DML about Yokohama tires slowing 
production down on the AVS tires. I sent them an email to find out 
about this and below is the response I recieved:

>Yokohama discontinued some sizes of the AVS Intermediate line.  
>However, the two sizes listed below in your email are still current, 
>and available to order.  I hope this information has been helpful.  
>Thank you for contacting Yokohama Tire Corporation.

This is the email I sent them:

>Tire Size:      235x60/15 (rear) 195x60/14 (front) 
>Make:           Delorean 
>Model:          DMC-12 
>Year:           1981 
>Comments:       I heard that Yokohama was slowing down the 
>production of it's AVS Intermediate tires and wanted to know if that 
>was true?  I have a Delorean that I recently restored and those are 
>the sizes it uses for the front (195) and rear (235). Thank you.

Hope this helps.

Steve





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 18:46:59 +0100
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: Re: Auto trans governor problems

>
> Possible you installed the caps backwards but the Tantalums would probably
> tolerate and work OK anyway, at least for awhile. Wouldn't likely be
> intermittent. The black rubber seals were the positive end.


No, no, no!!!

If you install Tantalums backwards then they will definitely go bad. They
WILL get hot, and they might even explode. The same applies to electrolytic
capacitors. If you put them in backwards and already had voltage connected:
THROW THEM AWAY.

Something else to consider: Most tantalum caps are not very surge resistant.
So if you really want to use them, take the ones which can withstand voltage
surges.

I would recommend using film capacitors (up to approx. 2.2µF) or ceramic
capacitors (up to approx. 220nF).

Ralf.
VIN10284
(electronic engineer)




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 10:19:51 -0800
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie_at_dml_PNDC.org>
Subject: DeLorean One

Dear Group,
I have withheld this story long enough but I feel it must be told.
I first met Ed & Millie Bernstein in January of 1983 to talk about forming a
DeLorean club or clubs.  I was instrumental in forming the Pacific Northwest
DeLorean Club (PNDC) which started on February 26, 1983.  Ed and company
formed the DOA soon after.  I met again, later, with Ed and he wanted the
PNDC to become a chapter of DOA.  Our membership voted this down and chose
to remain independent.  I have been to Ed's shops, old & new, with my wife &
my DeLorean.  We purchased some items while there.  I always considered Ed
and Millie as "friends" and until now was member #797 of DOA having joined
(I think) in later 1983.  I know the Truscotts and other past DOA officers.
The above serves only to establish my connection with the
Bernstein's/DeLorean One/DOA.
Fast forward to April, 2000.  I need to have a brake master cylinder
overhauled.  I take my old cylinder plus a rebuild kit from my parts
inventory to a machine shop recommended to me, Seattle Brake and Clutch.
Doug, manager, tells me that they can rebuild any cylinder so a few days
later I took to them an old and leaking clutch master and slave, with
instructions to "fix these".  Seattle Brake & Clutch had problems finding
the proper parts for these cylinders and ON THEIR VERY OWN cruised the WEB
and all by themselves found DeLorean One.  Again, on their own with no
information from me, Doug calls DeLorean One and is told "yes we have the
repair kits but we need a VIN number to be certain"  Doug then called me to
obtain said number.  I didn't say a word but suspected what was happening.
I gave Doug my VIN #6292.  He again called Ed (by this time Doug knew he was
talking to an Ed) and tried to order needed parts.  Upon giving Ed my Vin
number and waiting for quite a few seconds, Ed came back and told Doug
"sorry, we have no parts for that car" AND HUNG UP THE PHONE!!! Does this
mean that if I ever sell my car that the new owner can never purchase parts
from DeLorean One?  Because I have purchased most of my needed parts from
Specialty Automotive in Olympia, WA., does this mean that even given the
fact that I know Ed & Millie that I can never purchase parts from them?
While I have been a member of this list and the DeLorean community for many
years, I have read many accounts with regard to Ole Ed.  I never partook in
Ed bashing, remember, I considered them friends and thought that the
DeLorean community needed DeLorean One and any and all shops and/or
suppliers.  I have now dropped my membership from Ed's club and as many
other people do, consider Ed to be a complete a--, who does not deserve to
even use the name DeLorean connected with his endeavor.  Count me now as a
member of the Ed Bernstein bashing team.  I will do all I can to steer
people away from DeLorean One and his DOA, the same DOA that has never
published a club treasury balance sheet.  Do they too have something to
hide?




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:08:36 -0800
From: "PJ Grady" <pjgrady_at_dml_attglobal.net>
Subject: Locktite & Hylomar

Subject: Hylomar (and her sisters!)

In response to the four posts, about the above, all by people I consider
friends as well as customers I have to pose a question. Why didn’t anyone
ask me first? What am I....wood.  Just kidding! Ha Ha!

Sealants are like women they can be fickle but we all know we need them.
Seriously though before anyone hurts themselves or their D.’s I’d like to
share my thoughts.  Over the last twenty odd years I had many (intimate!)
experiences not only with Hylomar but also her sisters, Anearobic (least
known) and Silicone.

Hylomar sticks like glue to thin paper gaskets between machined (Head!)
cases such as bell housings and (Rear!) end covers.  Hint-Use a (rubber!)
gasket.

Anearobic prefers gasketless  housings such as transmission and engine
cases. Hint-no extra protection needed, she loves tight spots.

Silicone likes to hang out in the looser joints such as A.T. computer
terminals and lightly smeared on the face of A.T. pan gaskets.
Hint-Silicone’s not fussy.  She sticks to anything you throw at her.

If you need a more technical explanation please call me on our tech.
hotline.  Too much internet technobabble makes Jack a dull boy. I hope no
one is offended by my occasionally warped sense of humor but I just learned
what the happy face means!  Sometimes tongue in cheek is the way to go.
:-)





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 15:17:58 -0800
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: DOA Treasurers report was( DeLorean One)

        If you were a member for so long how could you miss the quarterly
treasurers report in every issue of DeLorean World up into the issue 9-1
(winter 1992). Joan published these continually until 92'. As for it
being "Ed's Club" your are completely mistaken. Yes Ed was around during
the formation of the club, and yes he contributes a lot of time and
energy to the club, but there are only about 20 people who spend many
hours trying to make the magazine work, trying to get the expo's
together, and every thing that the DOA sponsors is directly from those 20
some odd people. The club offers a great place to get help on anything
related to DeLoreans. The point is, Ed in no way runs the club, He was
president in the past but those days are long gone. Linda Porter does an
excellent job of running the Association and so do all the volunteers
that put so much effort into The DeLorean Owners Association. 
        Just because you have had an unpleasant experience with Ed, that
shouldn't sour you to The DOA, If it is anyones club, it would be the
Truscots, who are some of the nicest people I have ever met. 

Trevor Johnson
# 6974 and 4055
www.geocities.com/dmc6974
________________________________________________________________
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:08:49 -0600
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org>
Subject: RE: Auto trans governor problems

Well to be safe I will pull the caps and replace them.  It's not that
expensive.

Ralf - The capsI used are 4.7uF 50v tantalum caps from nte.  Suggestions?

Matthew L. Walker
VIN 1219

-----Original Message-----
From: Ralf Philipp [mailto:doc.brown_at_dml_web.de]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:47 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Auto trans governor problems


>
> Possible you installed the caps backwards but the Tantalums would probably
> tolerate and work OK anyway, at least for awhile. Wouldn't likely be
> intermittent. The black rubber seals were the positive end.


No, no, no!!!

If you install Tantalums backwards then they will definitely go bad. They
WILL get hot, and they might even explode. The same applies to electrolytic
capacitors. If you put them in backwards and already had voltage connected:
THROW THEM AWAY.

Something else to consider: Most tantalum caps are not very surge resistant.
So if you really want to use them, take the ones which can withstand voltage
surges.

I would recommend using film capacitors (up to approx. 2.2µF) or ceramic
capacitors (up to approx. 220nF).

Ralf.
VIN10284
(electronic engineer)



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 19:38:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: interesting item on e-bay

hey group!
  just wanted to tell y'all about an interesting item on e-bay. it is an original design portfolio from ital design meant to show DMC possible body graphics. on the site it says "a souvenir from the late DeLorean factory.." the concepts look like they are applied on a pre-production "prototype" car, judging by the sliding windows, and such. i am sure that this is the only one in existence, so i thought i would let you guys know so that it could go to a rightful home. i would bid on it, but the opening bid is $300, and that would take money out of my DeLorean fund :(. anyways, i am not connected to the seller in any way, i just thought this was cool. well here is the link- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=556216622&r=0&t=0 talk to y'all later! -Louie

_____________________________________________________________
YourName_at_dml_delorean.com -- it's free from <a href="http://www.delorean.com"> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!



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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 21:47:40 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Great Alarm available for D

> actually it's pretty easy.  all you need are door release actuators.  i
have
> a friend who owns a 98 integra and his big plan is to get actuators for
his
> entire car - trunk, doors, hood, everything.  then he wants to remove his
> door handles and weld panels over the holes for them then get it repainted
so
> it looks like the car was built without door handles or latches.  pretty
> adventurous - i wonder what he'll do if the battery runs out in his car
and
> he can't get in?  i imagine that doing this is pretty expensive. i should
ask


He'll probably add foot actuaters under the body line.
The dealer where I bought my D had a "shaved" Kaiser that was incredible. It
went for about twice of what I got my D for.
I think I got the better car and a much better deal!





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 20:55:05 -0700
From: raddad_at_dml_cmn.net
Subject: Re: DOA Treasurers report was( DeLorean One)

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
We agree.  Consider this thread closed.

Mike G.

Moderators:  At the risk of continuing a thread that may not be in the best
interests of the DML, I'd like to offer the following.

I hold DOA membership number 547 - I've been around a LONG time. I've been
in Ed and Millie's home to pick up parts on a Saturday in the very early
days of both the DOA and DeLorean One.

Having said that,

1.  Ed is entitled to run his business anyway he wants.  He is entitled to
what ever personality he wants to put forth.  HOWEVER, it is unfortunate
that because of his idiosyncracies he casts a rather unpleasant pall over
the entire DeLorean fraternity, especially to new people just entering our
group.

2.  When published (not since 1992????) the Treasurer's report left many
unanswered questions.  The detail was severely lacking.  When pressed, the
club's response was that detail could be reviewed at a time and place of
the club's choosing (or words to that effect); ie, if you live in New York
or Colorado (as I now do), plan on a trip to Los Angeles to get your
answers.  Oh, as I remember it, your review was to be supervised!!  Ed was
adamant about keeping detail secret.

3.  Whether Ed holds an office or not, he was/is VERY active in the club
and the extent of his influence could debated.

I know the Truscott's.  I know the Haug's.  I know the Knudson's.  When I
lived in California,  I had very pleasant personal relationships with them
.  However, I also know the Myhre's, James Espey, AND OTHERS who have had
very "unusual" relationships with the DOA and in each case the cause for
the unusual relationship was alleged to be Ed.

We have Joe, Rob, Stephen and others to turn to.  We have the DML which is
an amazing forum.  Let's move on!

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867











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