From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 404
Date: Saturday, February 10, 2001 5:27 AM

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There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Draining the cooling system
From: dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com

2. Alternate Tires
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

3. Charlotte Area DMC Shops?
From: jasperkins2000_at_dml_yahoo.com

4. Re: New Lubricant
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

5. Re: Alternate Tires
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

6. Re: AC and fanzilla question
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

7. Headliner material.
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com

8. Re: Correction to door locks/zillas/solenoids
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

9. Re: Draining the cooling system
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com>

10. Re: AC and fanzilla question
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

11. Silver Shift Knobs?
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

12. Delco Battery?
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

13. RE: Alternate Tires
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

14. RE: Silver Shift Knobs?
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

15. Alternator Question!
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. DMC-12 In Oregon, Ohio
From: afprep88_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Draining the cooling system
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

18. Re: Draining the cooling system
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

19. Re: Headliner material.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: Cold engine and smoke and gas problem, continued
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>

21. Re: AC and fanzilla question
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

22. Quick Note On Cooling Fans
From: "Jim" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 14:14:10 -0000
From: dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com
Subject: Draining the cooling system

I am going to replace my cooling hoses on my car and wondered which 
is the best way to drain the water from the system should I just 
remove one of the rubber pipes and let the water pour out?

Also (probably best ansered by a UK owner) is there any special 
radiator fluid I should put in when I fill up the system, do I just 
use tap water, how much do I put in do I fill it up to the to ??  and 
which anti freeze would you recomend and where do I get it from i.e. 
Halfords or Partco.....

Regards James




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 07:34:05 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Alternate Tires

Not to start another tire thread/debate BUT in looking at the graph for
the Yokohama AVS Intermediate tire and the comments but buyers it seems
that these tires are not that great for wear.  I assume the softer
rubber gives better performance but what is the average mile expectation
of these tires?  I'm not too willing to spend $400 plus for tires that
are going to wear quickly.   My car is stored in winter and during the
driving season I put on about 4-6K /year.  I'm not an agressive driver
either but do want good performance.

What would be a good harder rubber tire with a higher wear rating.?

Thanks

Tom
#005732  MT




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 15:00:49 -0000
From: jasperkins2000_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Charlotte Area DMC Shops?

I have just moved here to Charlotte NC, and I am looking for a repair 
shop for my 83 DMC.  Not that anything is really wrong yet......
But She is still all origianl, and I would like to make it my weekend 
driver.  I now she will need new belts, tires, structs, etc.  Also 
however I would like to have the new lowered springs added.  Does 
anyone know of a place within the Charlotte NC area that they 
recommend.

Thanks,
Jason
jasperkins_at_dml_hotmail.com
vin #16665




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 16:57:57 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: New Lubricant

This product has been around since the early 80's, nothing new about 
it. If I'm not mistaken I've seen can's of this stuff at Rob's shop, 
he uses it. There is another product that is the same stuff but 
selling for less. It's called Winzer Polylube #250. Rob Grady also 
sells this (along with allot of other chemicals).

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Group, I all my probing around for parts and new products, I found 
a 
> lubricant for the tight places,thats heavier than WD40. It's called 
> WURTH, HHS 2000. This product is great. It sprays on like 
penetrating 
> oil but sets up like a grease. Can says: Lubricant, resistive to 
high 
> pressure and with high adhesive strength. Penetrates into the 
> tightest areas easily and sets into a high temp grease. Unaffected 
by 
> temperatures from -95 degree F. to + 392 degree F. Think of the 
> places: air duct hings, engine compartment hinges, brass bearings 
in 
> motors so on.
> John Hervey
> P.S. I will put it on the web site.
> www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 13:24:53 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Alternate Tires

On Fri, 9 Feb 2001, Watkins Family wrote:

> Not to start another tire thread/debate BUT in looking at the graph
> for the Yokohama AVS Intermediate tire and the comments but buyers it
> seems that these tires are not that great for wear.  I assume the

It depends on what you mean by "not that great."  Most will last 25-30,000
miles, more if you don't drive particularly hard.  That is fantastic for
such a high performance tire.  There are people who have had them last
40,000 miles.




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 18:44:04 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: AC and fanzilla question

Ok, I guess I am going to open my big mouth again. This was just a 
thread that was "in discussion" about people posting advertisement on 
the DML. If I am not mistaken it is clearly stated that there is no 
advertising on the DML in the rules. Now if someone posted a response 
saying "check out our/my website for more details and pricing" that I 
feel is ok...but to give out prices and compare them to other vendor 
prices on the DML I feel is wrong.

On another note: I am an electrical engineer and comparing a Heavy 
Duty Relay to a "Smart" Logic circuit with Heavy Duty Relays is a big 
difference (I am sure Mr. Zilla could better describe it since he 
disigned it). The cost of the Zilla is the cost of engineering, 
design and guarantee of the electronic circuit and circuit board plus 
a small profit. I think for the price it's going fo it's a very good 
price. I know the costs involved in designing and building 
circuits...I was in charge of designing prototype circuit (very 
complex circuits I might add :-)) and I know what's involved and the 
costs. I am not arguing that one is better than the other, but to 
directly compare the two is way out in left field and you are 
comparing apples to oranges. 

From what I have seen on the site about the MaxiBrute...it looks like 
an open Relay (not encased)...that has no place in any automotive 
application. Moisture WILL affect the contacts of the relay causing 
oxidation and leading to intermittent contacts. Also if any thing 
comes in contact with with the relay contacts and shorts it out (to 
ground, each other, ect) you are going to have a BIG problem. If you 
look at any other car relay, every relay is encased in a plastic 
housing and it is completely sealed at the seams. Even if there was a 
plastic cover that is placed over it, it still won't be sealed from 
the elements.

You also said that you can leave only one fan on and one off? NO WAY 
would you want to do that. You are then only cooling one half of the 
radiator and leaving the other hot? Using my Jeep as an example, it 
has two fans, one mechaincal one electric (as do other cars do too). 
There is a temp sensor on the half of the radiator where the electric 
fan sits...if the temp rises to high it kicks it on, temp drops turns 
it off. The reason why I am using my Jeep as an example is because it 
has the same type of cooling system as the D, an enclosed one. When 
my electric fan died on me I had problems coming close to overheating 
since there was only one fan doing all the cooling....and that one 
was on all the time!

Sorry I had to post this but I will always support good comments 
posted and feel that I have to speak out against negative ones that 
are posted.

My two cents worth.

Steve

BTW, I X'ed out all the prices, don't need to advertise them again.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> <SNIP>
My fan fix also addresses the low voltage 
> problem to the main relay that the Zilla doesn't. Again, Just a 
very common 
> sence approach to a very simple problem. Plus mine is only $XX.00, 
not 
> $XXX.00+. Guaranteed.I own three cars as you can see on the web 
site, so I 
> have stuided the problems out. Plus I was in electronics for years. 
But, I'm 
> not an engineer.If you look at other parts that the big dealers 
sell. Just do 
> a comparison.
> SpecialTauto.com                                            There's
> De Lorean 150 amp Alt. $XXX.00                 There's 105 amp 
$XXX.00
> Fan Fix $XX.00                                          There's 
$XXX.00
> Fan Fail $XX.95                                         There's None
> With mine you have extra protection 
> and can run onr or two fans at a time.
> My new Cooling Fans $XXX.00 exchange      There's $XXX.00 ea no 
exchange.
> $XX..00 core allowance=$XXX.00
> I just got tired of seeing over inflated prices.
> Does this help
> Call me if you want more.
> 800-413-3300 office 9-5
> 972-564-9321 home 
> 972-672-3739 cell
> John Hervey




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 18:49:00 -0000
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Headliner material.

Does anybody know where you could pick up a roll of the material for 
the headliners(I do not want to buy repaired headliners)my head 
liners are just fine, but I have spares that could use redoing.(the 
the formed liner is in excellent condition,I just need a roll of that 
headliner material. Also on my comment about D-1,please go to URL  
DeloreaNews: http://www.egroups.com/group/DeloreaNews as I do not 
want to start any kind of bashing on this list.


Claude
000570




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 18:50:06 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Correction to door locks/zillas/solenoids

I want to correct something in my last post. The vendors that sell 
the LockZilla have the OEM type harness/connectors for it in stock, 
you don't have to send them your old one. I was just made aware of 
this from another DML member. But as I said before, if both plastic 
connector housings are melted (as mine were) I would suggest getting 
the LockZilla without the OEM type connector and crip it onto the 
main harness. The Delorean vendors can instruct you on what to do.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., srubano_at_dml_o... wrote:
<SNIP>
>It would be easier to install the LocZilla with the OEM harness, but 
>you 
> will have to send them your old lock Module with the harness so 
that 
> they can "transplant" the harness to the LockZilla. Of course if 
your 
> harness is melted or in poor condition then I would suggest to just 
> cut the connector off the main harness that is in the car and 
> purchase the LockZilla as is, It will come with crimp on BUTT 
> connectors to crimp to the main lock module harness that is in the 
> car.
> 
<SNIP>
> So in conclusion: If you want the OEM connector harness on the 
> LockZilla and you don't want to be charged for the Core, send all 
> three old parts to the vendor and then have them send you the 
> LockZilla with the OEM harness installed and the new solenoids.
> 
> Steve
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > Hello All,
> > 
> > ><SNIP> 
> > my question is this:  i am about to order lockzilla.  i should 
> probably order 
> > at least one new lock solenoid at the same time, correct?  would 
it 
> be wise 
> > to replace the passenger side one at the same time?  i have no 
> problems right 
> > now with it, but i'm sure it will eventually go out.  also, some 
of 
> the DMC 
> > websites talk about a 'core charge' if you buy new solenoids. can 
> someone 
> > explain what this means to me?  and should i pay the extra money 
to 
> get the 
> > original harnesses included when i buy new solenoids?
> > 
> > thanks for the tips!
> > Andy
> > 
> > Soma576_at_dml_a...
> > 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> > Fargo, ND 58102
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 13:09:57 -0500
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com>
Subject: Re: Draining the cooling system

DO NOT USE TAP  WATER!!
Mineral deposits will ruin first your water pump, then radiator, then do a
lot of damage in the engine. Use ONLY distilled water and antifreeze. Also,
you should never drive the car on water alone. Even though it is called an
antifreeze it also protects against boilover. So, always use a mixture -
usually 50%/50% is just fine.

I hope this helps.
Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298
tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:14 AM
Subject: [DML] Draining the cooling system


> I am going to replace my cooling hoses on my car and wondered which
> is the best way to drain the water from the system should I just
> remove one of the rubber pipes and let the water pour out?
>
> Also (probably best ansered by a UK owner) is there any special
> radiator fluid I should put in when I fill up the system, do I just
> use tap water, how much do I put in do I fill it up to the to ??  and
> which anti freeze would you recomend and where do I get it from i.e.
> Halfords or Partco.....
>
> Regards James
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free _at_dml_yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 20:59:12 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Re: AC and fanzilla question

John Hervey wrote:

> [snip]
> SpecialTauto.com                                            Theirs
> Fan Fix $65.00                                        Theirs $200.00
> Fan Fail $19.95                                       Theirs None
> [snip]

This is nothing personal, but when you make a comparison, make a fair one!
You don't go comparing a DeLorean to a Volkswagen either,
allthough they both do what they're supposed to do:
get you from A to B in a comfortable way!
It's the way they do it that makes the diference.

It's true that there's no Fan Fail fix from the other vendors,
the FanZilla (I have one on DAGGER) has this function incorporated!
The "Cooling Fan Fail" light gets its original designation; it lights
when a fuse is blown, warning you there's something wrong.
The Fan Fix doesn't.

The FanZilla is way more complicated then a Fan Fix, had to be engineered,
tested and is manufactured for only one brand/type of (out of production) car!
Off course they cost more! The Fix is just an extra Heavy Duty Relay,
with some clever wiring. I'd call it a "Relay Update Plus"...

I agree the FanZilla is quite costly, but it DOES address more that one problem;
by staggering the Fans with a delay the "PowerKick" on the engine dissappears,
the Fix probably (I can't be soure due to lack of experience with the fix) doesn't
and you'd still feel your car hold back as both Fans and the A/C compressor
kick in all together...

I DO like the 150 Alternator, if my Motorola fails and rebuilding is to expensive,
I'll probably get me one of those...

Greetings from The Netherlands,

JAN van de Wouw

Happy Zilla owner/user, 
but ALLWAYS open to suggestions...

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------

PS. why not make "the Zilla Fix"; 
A wiring-mod that relieves the main relay 
especially made for the DeLorean/FanZilla... 
Plug&Play off course!   
;-)



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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 20:04:59 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Silver Shift Knobs?

Hi,
I'm looking for a silver ball shift knob.  Preferable something that 
is made of Stainless Steel.  I don't want it to have the shift 
pattern or anything on it.  Just a clean stainless steel look.  Does 
anyone know where to get one of these?  I have looked around but only 
find ones with shift patterns on them, or ones that say "Type R" all 
over them.  Any help would be appreciated.

Erik Geerdink
4512




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 12:14:44 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Delco Battery?

Local K-Mart has Delco Freedom (Maintenance Free) Battery number 78A72,
appears to be the exact replacement for the original, is it?  Not on the
cross reference guide I downloaded.  Thanks




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 15:22:23 -0500
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Alternate Tires

I have over 30,0000 miles on my rear Yoko's, and still there is plenty of
tread, still. Had over 25,000 on the fronts before replacing them.

Robert Starling
Vin#05252






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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 15:29:51 -0500
From: "Doc" <doctor280_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Silver Shift Knobs?

Look at the MOMO gearshift knobs....they work on the Delorean and they have
many to choose from.
Robert Starling
Vin#05252


Hi,
I'm looking for a silver ball shift knob.  Preferable something that
is made of Stainless Steel.  I don't want it to have the shift
pattern or anything on it.  Just a clean stainless steel look.  Does
anyone know where to get one of these?  I have looked around but only
find ones with shift patterns on them, or ones that say "Type R" all
over them.  Any help would be appreciated.

Erik Geerdink
4512



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 21:06:54
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Alternator Question!


I have one question regarding the "new" alternators. I see that there are 
various suggestions for replacement alternators...

DeLorean Midstates offers a 105 Amp alternator as do Grady and DMC Joe.
Mr. Hervey now offers one with even a higher output (150 I believe it was)

My question is:
Is it advisable to replace the original alternator with one with a much 
higher output than the original one?

Is there a "limit" as to how high output should be in the DeLorean?
What difference is there between the 105 and 150? I have 90amp with FanZilla 
and I "feel" its enough power for all the systems in the car.

Can a very high alternator output damage anything in the electrical system? 
What about the battery's condition?

Just curious...

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759 (w/original 90amp Motorola)
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 16:12:53 EST
From: afprep88_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DMC-12 In Oregon, Ohio

Dear D-Fans,

         I was at Matthews Ford in Oregon Ohio and I found a DeLorean that 
they had inside, protected from the weather, for sale for almost $20,000.  I 
know that is a high price but the car only has 6900 miles on it. I look in 
the windshield on the passenger side, and there was a DeLorean Owners 
Assosciation sticker.  The car was a beauty.  It was a trade-in.  Get this, 
the head guy at the service department was like "i think it has a 
turbocharged buick engine" and i was like, no, no...it's a Volvo (PRV) V6, 
and he's like "oh".  But the car is great....i have pics.  It was only the 
2nd D i have ever been in...unfortuantely, the battery was dead so i couldn't 
start it.

Chris Miller
VIN # soon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 18:23:37 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: Draining the cooling system

James/ list.

I removed one of the lower water hoses (on my car) and was surprised at the
amount of brown rusty looking water that came out. I used a hose pipe for
about 1/2 hour to completly flush out the entire system, until the brown
flow had finished. Then I put in about 3 pints of good quality  ( glycol
based) antifreeze ( I used Bluecol) then topped up with water.

It took me a good time to get all the air out of the system. I know there
are bleeding kits available, but I did not have one...must be plenty of info
on this in the archives.
It is important to have a minimum amount of anti-freeze in the system to
prevent internal corrosion of the engine. I am not sure of the correct
ratio, but better to have it too strong than too weak.
Any one know the proper ratio?

Chris P DOC UK


----- Original Message -----
From: <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 2:14 PM
Subject: [DML] Draining the cooling system


> I am going to replace my cooling hoses on my car and wondered which
> is the best way to drain the water from the system should I just
> remove one of the rubber pipes and let the water pour out?
>
> Also (probably best ansered by a UK owner) is there any special
> radiator fluid I should put in when I fill up the system, do I just
> use tap water, how much do I put in do I fill it up to the to ??  and
> which anti freeze would you recomend and where do I get it from i.e.
> Halfords or Partco.....
>
> Regards James
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 23:14:18 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Draining the cooling system

Unless the water in your area is especially "hard" I wouldn't be too 
concerned about using it. You are correct about running straight 
water. Unless you are testing for leaks you should always have 
anti-freeze. It should be a name brand permanant type mixed 50/50. It 
is very important in the Delorean with aluminum and steel parts. Name 
brand anti-freeze will have lubricants for the water pump, corrosion 
inhibiters to prevent the dissimilar metals from interacting with each 
other and sealers to help seal minor leaks. The two main things to 
check regularly are the boiling/freezing point of the mixture and the 
PH. If the coolant gets acidic it will start attacking the metal 
components from the inside. The best insurance is to change the 
anti-freeze every 2 years or so if you don't have access to a way to 
test it. Most places have test strips like you use on a swimming pool 
but made special for checking anti-freeze. Always dispose of used 
anti-freeze properly and keep animals away from it, it smells sweet to 
them and if they ingest enough it will kill your furry friends! Never 
run more than 50/50 or you lower the boiling point even though you can 
lower the freezing point. (You only do that in the most severe 
climates and then only for the winter.)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> DO NOT USE TAP  WATER!!
> Mineral deposits will ruin first your water pump, then radiator, 
then do a
> lot of damage in the engine. Use ONLY distilled water and 
antifreeze. Also,
> you should never drive the car on water alone. Even though it is 
called an
> antifreeze it also protects against boilover. So, always use a 
mixture -
> usually 50%/50% is just fine.
> 
> I hope this helps.
> Tom Niemczewski
> vin 6298
> tomcio_at_dml_j...
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dmc12_at_dml_b...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_y...>
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:14 AM
> Subject: [DML] Draining the cooling system
> 
> 
> > I am going to replace my cooling hoses on my car and wondered 
which
> > is the best way to drain the water from the system should I just
> > remove one of the rubber pipes and let the water pour out?
> >
> > Also (probably best ansered by a UK owner) is there any special
> > radiator fluid I should put in when I fill up the system, do I 
just
> > use tap water, how much do I put in do I fill it up to the to ??  
and
> > which anti freeze would you recomend and where do I get it from 
i.e.
> > Halfords or Partco.....
> >
> > Regards James
> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules 
at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 20:33:27 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Headliner material.

Claude,

Headliner material can be purchased from your local upholstery/trim shop.
Just bring them a sample and they should be able to find a match.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 1:49 PM
Subject: [DML] Headliner material.


> Does anybody know where you could pick up a roll of the material for
> the headliners(I do not want to buy repaired headliners)my head
> liners are just fine, but I have spares that could use redoing.(the
> the formed liner is in excellent condition,I just need a roll of that
> headliner material. Also on my comment about D-1,please go to URL
> DeloreaNews: http://www.egroups.com/group/DeloreaNews as I do not
> want to start any kind of bashing on this list.
>
>
> Claude
> 000570
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 23:14:55 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Cold engine and smoke and gas problem, continued

I have been trying to solve my 15 miles to the gallon problem for quite
some time.  My frequency valve operates normal,  (After a quick drive
around the block I hear the buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ugh buzzzzzzzzzzzz...) but
just recently I have noticed white smoke in the mornings and terrible
accleration just after leaving my driveway.  It seems to clear up within 1
minuute of runing the car.  The smoke only occurs when I give the car gas
in 1st gear during this first minute, and it does lag badly.  I am not
leaking any antifreeze, and the car never smells like gas even though it
eats it like it is a bottomless pit.  I also have a slight
grumble/rattle/scrape/not good sounds bad sound in the engine that I can
only hear when I am outside of the car near the engine.  This engine has
less then 8000 miles on it and was purchased new from houston less than 3
years ago.  I mention this problem again only because the white smoke
thread just started and some people are experiemceing this accl lag as
well.  I would like to urge you to see how much gas you are using, maybe we
are all in the same boat. The only idea I have is that my CO screw is out
of adjustment, but I seem to idle fine, and it seems like a screw that far
out of adjustment would idle real rough.    Any other suggestions?
Joe Palatinus
17167 6808



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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 05:06:15 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: AC and fanzilla question

Steve, I have told everyone on the group that I'm not an engineer but 
a good parts man. I worked with engineers for years and was always 
told to look for a simple solution for the product. I have listened 
to people on this group complain about the cost of Zilla products and 
I finally did something about it. Yes: As an engineer you then know 
the difference in an inductive load relay and a resistive one. All 
the relay's in the De Lorean are resistive load and are prone to 
fail. I don't mind telling folks that I'm using a inductive load 
relay made especially for fan applications, it's not just heavy duty. 
The fan inrush current is around 60Amps and that is what this relay 
is made for. As far as open frame and being a hazzard. If that was 
the case then the humidity your talking about will not be stopped by 
a snap on plastic or metal case. That why I didn't cover it. I won't 
air flow to keep it dry as possible. Enclosed relays will hold the 
moisture longer and will corrode faster. Pull out your RPM relay and 
look at the contacts. Clean them while you have it out. Moisture and 
underated contacts is why a lot of fuel pumps fail. As far as exposed 
contacts. Look at the circuit breakers for the door lock. Terminals 
facing straight up for someone to short out along with the other fan 
circuit breakers.
I know that Bob has put lots of time in engineering the Zilla 
products and I know they are good because they are sold a lot and 
have a proven track record and he should be paid back for that 
engineering if you can afford it. But just because he is using a 
logic approach doesn't make the electro mechanical approach an 
inferior product. As simple as my product is and the way it's wired, 
I have no more low voltage problems and drop outs. We have some 
differences + and -. but it works and it's guaranteed.       
As you know that the water in the radiator goes from one side to the 
other before going out. In a lot of colder climates one can get by 
with less air flow. That's why people put cardboard in front of the 
radiator to slow down air flow to heat the car up or just use one 
fan. In Texas, we need all the air flow we can get in hot climate, 
but in 40 and 50 degree weather, one fans works great to let the 
water heat up faster. The coolant switch turns the fan on and only 
one fan to draw current instead of two when two is not needed. I 
drive mine like this in colder weather. Yes: it may go against the 
grain of a lot of people, but it works.
I don't mind constructive criticism, and sometimes I screw up just 
like others that try to help. But it seems that a lot of De Lorean 
owners have only seen one way to approach problems with the cars and 
have been kept in the dark. I think I have opened a lot of eyes to 
just as good but less expensive ways.
Ask me about the current relief I have given the main relay that also 
controls the Lambda unit. I have that low voltage problem solved.
The fuel pumb burning up the, I think #7 fuse, I have that fixed 
also. All with out logic and very inexpensive.
If I'm out of line I know the group will put me back on track.
I like my De Lorean's and will continue to address problems the only 
way I know how. Simple. Thanks for your opinion's, I think yours and 
others are always welcome. I think folks learn from these exchanges 
and look forward to them. I also know when to check it to the logic 
engineers.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com       


**** Moderator sniped a bunch of copied stuff...  *****




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 05:32:12 -0000
From: "Jim" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Quick Note On Cooling Fans

I would like to add a quick note of real life DeLorean experience 
running on one cooling fan.  Since I bought my car in August 2000, my 
drivers side cooling fan has been 100% inoperable.  Several times, 
while sitting in greusome Minneapolis traffic (without AC on), I 
constantly monitored my temp gauge.  Everything monitored normally.  
The temp gauge was exactly between 220 and 160 when the one fan kicked 
in on its own, and while I do admit it didn't cool down the engine 
real fast, it DEFINATELY kept it from heating any hotter.  I dont want 
to endorse or bash any one product, since they all serve their 
usefull purpose, but I am the kind of guy who likes making his own fix 
for most things.  I reworked my OEM Lock Module, and I am building my 
own fan relay/monitoring system.  Of course, I am going to investigate 
why my one fan isn't working, and get it fixed.  But that will wait 
untill April, when everything else gets done to it.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., srubano_at_dml_o... wrote:
> You also said that you can leave only one fan on and one off? NO WAY 
> would you want to do that. You are then only cooling one half of the 
> radiator and leaving the other hot?




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