From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 405
Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 8:38 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: AC and fanzilla question
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Quick Note On Cooling Fans
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

3. Re: Silver Shift Knobs?
From: nbeatson_at_dml_aol.com

4. Atlantic City Classic Car Auction
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Re: Cold engine and smoke and gas problem, continued
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

6. Re: Alternator Question!
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

7. Re: Re: AC and fanzilla question
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

8. Hello list!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

9. Re: AC and fanzilla question
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

10. Re: Headliner material
From: burkephoto_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Cold engine and smoke and gas problem, continued
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

12. Re: Delco Battery?
From: knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com

13. Re: AC and fanzilla question
From: turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com

14. Re: Alternator Question!
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 05:53:55 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: AC and fanzilla question

Jan, I read your post and respect your comments, but I think it would 
be to your advantage if you would have bought the product or even 
studied it out before your comments. You would then see they are not 
what you say. I didn't use the logic approach. I use the electro 
mechanical approach. 
I didn't think I needed to go into as much describution about the Fan 
Fail but here it is. The Fan Fail Fix has a 15 amp fuse on each legs 
of wire going to the fans with 12 ga wire and epoxied in contacts. It 
also has extra long contacts for a futher reach into the female 
sockets for more contact interface and less overheating. It will also 
let you know with the light on the dash if you have a fan failure and 
if the fans are getting power. I work the light in reverse, you will 
see with mine they are getting power.
As far as The Fan Fix, Maxi Brute, it also eliminates the fan kick as 
you call it and even goes two steps futher. Eliminates the current 
draw on the main relay that also controls the Lambda unit and 
addresses the low voltage problem utlizing the cars on wiring. Like I 
said in other post, it's a inductive load relay not just heavy duty. 
You won't feel or have the hold back due to voltage drop, it will be 
the opposite, you will feel a pick up because I don't stagger the 
current draw to the fans I Fix it. Yes it's fancy wiring that you 
plugin and hook up one wire. $$$. Don't judge the product by it's 
cover.
Thanks for your comments.
John Hervey



*****  Moderator removed long quote



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 10:05:50 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: Quick Note On Cooling Fans

It sounds like the brushes inside of the fan are not making proper 
contact. I have the same exact problem on my car with the same exact 
fan. After almost 20 years though, it's something I would almost 
expect. Symptoms will include intermidant fan operation and slower 
fan speed. Try this test:

1. Verify that all wire connections are secure and are getting proper 
power. Fan motor electrical plug, and the fan fail bypass if 
installed. Also check the fuses on the fail fail bypass.
2. Remove the brake master cylinder access panel.
3. Turn the key to "ON" position, and the A/C controls to the on 
position (leave both the engine and the blower fan off).
4. If you feel brave enough you can tap the fan blades with your 
hand. But to be safe, rapp the side of the motor housing with 
something like a wrench. If the brushes are bad, most time the fan 
will start to spin. If not, make sure that you check ALL electrical 
connections.

Once the fan is at full speed, you WILL feel a good amount of air 
displaced from the fan. Once the fans are plugged in, they won't cool 
the engine instantly, but it will be pretty quick. Your cooling 
system may also vary depending upon individual factors: 
Condition/mixture of coolant, amount of air in the system, pump, 
thermostat, and type of radiator installed (I run the heavy duty 
brass one). You can also do this test laying on the ground, but 
untill you used to it, the danger of sticking a finger into the path 
of the blades is just too great. An overhead view is best.

On a side note, I run neither FanZilla™, nor the Fan Fix® and
my car 
is just fine. I'm not knocking either product, I just have other 
items on the car that require more attention at the moment.

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jim" <ultra_at_dml_i...> wrote:
<SNIP>
>one fan kicked 
> in on its own, and while I do admit it didn't cool down the engine 
> real fast, it DEFINATELY kept it from heating any hotter.
<SNIP>




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 08:14:08 EST
From: nbeatson_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Silver Shift Knobs?

Eric,
I bought an aluminium gear shift knob from a company called Richbrook, here in the UK. I don,t have their contact details with me today but I know they do mail order and I'll find the details and post them as soon as.

Nigel

Vin 02677

License plate 'DOC 16V'



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 09:36:00 EST
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Atlantic City Classic Car Auction

I attended the Atlantic City Classic Car Auction yesterday.  There were many 
fine cars there.  Well over 300 for the Friday event alone.  There was 
actually a DeLorean there.  I believe it was added late as it was not on the 
list of cars being auctioned prior to the event.  It was VIN 3727  Also it 
was in very poor condition unfortunately.  The ineterior was in need of 
repair and the passenger mirror was missing among other things.  Looked as if 
someone had found the car and tried to clean it up for the auction.  In any 
event I had to leave before it went on the block.  I will probably be going 
back today and will try to see what it went for.  

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 08:44:23 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cold engine and smoke and gas problem, continued

I have the same problem; almost 20k miles on mine.
But it is a recent change in behavior. In December Houston helped me adjust
my mixture to pass the smog test. It was failing very badly, but mileage did
not improve as greatly as I expected from the huge differences in the
readings.
I do know that I need to get the exhaust gaskets done, but am fearful to
tackle this project myself after listening to the talk about broken studs.
Could exhaust-manifold leaks effect cold running and mileage?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Palatinus" <jpalatinus_at_dml_earthlink.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 9:14 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Cold engine and smoke and gas problem, continued


> I have been trying to solve my 15 miles to the gallon problem for quite
> some time.  My frequency valve operates normal,  (After a quick drive
> around the block I hear the buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ugh buzzzzzzzzzzzz...)
but
> just recently I have noticed white smoke in the mornings and terrible
> accleration just after leaving my driveway.  It seems to clear up within 1
> minuute of runing the car.  The smoke only occurs when I give the car gas
> in 1st gear during this first minute, and it does lag badly.  I am not
> leaking any antifreeze, and the car never smells like gas even though it
> eats it like it is a bottomless pit.  I also have a slight
> grumble/rattle/scrape/not good sounds bad sound in the engine that I can
> only hear when I am outside of the car near the engine.  This engine has
> less then 8000 miles on it and was purchased new from houston less than 3
> years ago.  I mention this problem again only because the white smoke
> thread just started and some people are experiemceing this accl lag as
> well.  I would like to urge you to see how much gas you are using, maybe
we
> are all in the same boat. The only idea I have is that my CO screw is out
> of adjustment, but I seem to idle fine, and it seems like a screw that far
> out of adjustment would idle real rough.    Any other suggestions?
> Joe Palatinus
> 17167 6808
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 09:25:42 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Question!

If I remember correctly, the alternator will only produce the amount of
current that the car requires.  The rating 105 Amp or 150 Amp is the maximum
rated current for the alternator.  I am curious though, how much current can
the wiring handle between the alternator and the battery?

Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981
----- Original Message -----
From: Stian Birkeland
Subject: [DML] Alternator Question!


>
> I have one question regarding the "new" alternators. I see that there are
> various suggestions for replacement alternators...
>
> DeLorean Midstates offers a 105 Amp alternator as do Grady and DMC Joe.
> Mr. Hervey now offers one with even a higher output (150 I believe it was)
>
> My question is:
> Is it advisable to replace the original alternator with one with a much
> higher output than the original one?
>
> Is there a "limit" as to how high output should be in the DeLorean?
> What difference is there between the 105 and 150? I have 90amp with
FanZilla
> and I "feel" its enough power for all the systems in the car.
>
> Can a very high alternator output damage anything in the electrical
system?
> What about the battery's condition?
>
> Just curious...
>
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
>
> VIN # 06759 (w/original 90amp Motorola)





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 09:38:20 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: AC and fanzilla question

I like the idea of staging the fans at different temperatures.  If one fan
will keep the coolant at the proper temperature, then there is no reason to
run the second fan.

Which method is better, Zilla or Hervey?  I don't know but a little
competition has never hurt anyone.

Who knows, maybe we start seeing some other improved products for our cars.

Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981
----- Original Message -----
From: <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 11:06 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: AC and fanzilla question


As an engineer you then know
> the difference in an inductive load relay and a resistive one. All
> the relay's in the De Lorean are resistive load and are prone to
> fail. I don't mind telling folks that I'm using a inductive load
> relay made especially for fan applications, it's not just heavy duty.
> The fan inrush current is around 60Amps and that is what this relay
> is made for. As far as open frame and being a hazzard. If that was
> the case then the humidity your talking about will not be stopped by
> a snap on plastic or metal case. That why I didn't cover it. I won't
> air flow to keep it dry as possible. Enclosed relays will hold the
> moisture longer and will corrode faster. Pull out your RPM relay and
> look at the contacts. Clean them while you have it out. Moisture and
> underated contacts is why a lot of fuel pumps fail. As far as exposed
> contacts. Look at the circuit breakers for the door lock. Terminals
> facing straight up for someone to short out along with the other fan
> circuit breakers.
> I know that Bob has put lots of time in engineering the Zilla
> products and I know they are good because they are sold a lot and
> have a proven track record and he should be paid back for that
> engineering if you can afford it. But just because he is using a
> logic approach doesn't make the electro mechanical approach an
> inferior product. As simple as my product is and the way it's wired,
> I have no more low voltage problems and drop outs. We have some
> differences + and -. but it works and it's guaranteed.
> As you know that the water in the radiator goes from one side to the
> other before going out. In a lot of colder climates one can get by
> with less air flow. That's why people put cardboard in front of the
> radiator to slow down air flow to heat the car up or just use one
> fan. In Texas, we need all the air flow we can get in hot climate,
> but in 40 and 50 degree weather, one fans works great to let the
> water heat up faster. The coolant switch turns the fan on and only
> one fan to draw current instead of two when two is not needed. I
> drive mine like this in colder weather. Yes: it may go against the
> grain of a lot of people, but it works.
> I don't mind constructive criticism, and sometimes I screw up just
> like others that try to help. But it seems that a lot of De Lorean
> owners have only seen one way to approach problems with the cars and
> have been kept in the dark. I think I have opened a lot of eyes to
> just as good but less expensive ways.
> Ask me about the current relief I have given the main relay that also
> controls the Lambda unit. I have that low voltage problem solved.
> The fuel pumb burning up the, I think #7 fuse, I have that fixed
> also. All with out logic and very inexpensive.
> If I'm out of line I know the group will put me back on track.
> I like my De Lorean's and will continue to address problems the only
> way I know how. Simple. Thanks for your opinion's, I think yours and
> others are always welcome. I think folks learn from these exchanges
> and look forward to them. I also know when to check it to the logic
> engineers.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com





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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 08:17:14 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Hello list!

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
Sometimes when you don't get an answer to a question posted to 
the list it is because no one knows the answer.

Hello people, I'm trying to determine whether you're a bunch of nice
folks trying to help the less fortunate or just waiting for someone to
make a statement of some sort so that you can jump on them.  I've been
an owner for about 2 weeks and can't possibly know everything there is
to know in a time frame of less than 60 days, I'm one of the slow
learners.

Here is my question from yesterday:  Is the Delco maintenance free
battery 78A72 the exact replacement for the original Delco freedom
battery?  By measurement and post location it looks to be.

No responses from you will answer the first question and I won't bother
asking anything else, I'll just wait out the required 60 days until I
know everything, I may then tell you how to do something and wait for
your jumps.

Les




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 16:29:36 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: AC and fanzilla question

First I would like to say...this is nothing personal at all, just 
some constructive criticism  :-).

I was merely trying to point out that to directly compare a relay to 
the Zilla was way off. It's not like they are using one brand relay 
and you are using another. Also I was trying to point out that there 
has got to be an end to "advertisements" on the DML such as giving 
out prices and comparing them to other D vendor prices...that's what 
it states in the DML rules. If I and other DML members have to follow 
them then so do everyone else...there is no "exceptions". 

As for contacts on the relay plugging into the socket, mine aren't 
corroded :-), I put a thin film of dielectric grease on them before 
plugging them in (this was an old DML thread).

People who know me, I am the type that I want to/have to make my own 
things or repair them myself (I've done it with other parts on my D). 
If I find that I have no time, then I leave to others. I am sure I 
can come up with a fan fix on my own or come up with a door lock 
module fix but that would take time and I feel why re-invent the 
wheel when someone has done it already (and very well I might add). 
The price you talk about is approximately the same price as any OEM 
car manufacture would charge for something that is comparable to the 
Zilla products (maybe even more!) so that's why I say it's a pretty 
good price. Sure I moan and groan when I see ANY part at that price, 
but then I think of all the work I would have to do if we didn't have 
them.....or the D vendors that supply them and I moan and groan even 
more.

I've said my peace, now I am done. :-)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> <SNIP>
I have listened 
> to people on this group complain about the cost of Zilla products 
and 
> I finally did something about it. Yes: As an engineer you then know 
> the difference in an inductive load relay and a resistive one. 

<SNIP>

 Enclosed relays will hold the 
> moisture longer and will corrode faster. Pull out your RPM relay 
and 
> look at the contacts. Clean them while you have it out. Moisture 
and 
> underated contacts is why a lot of fuel pumps fail. As far as 
exposed 
> contacts. Look at the circuit breakers for the door lock. Terminals 
> facing straight up for someone to short out along with the other 
fan 
> circuit breakers.
> <SNIP>
<SNIP>
> As you know that the water in the radiator goes from one side to 
the 
> other before going out. In 
<SNIP>
Thanks for your opinion's, I think yours and 
> others are always welcome. I think folks learn from these exchanges 
> and look forward to them. I also know when to check it to the logic 
> engineers.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com       
> 
> 
> **** Moderator sniped a bunch of copied stuff...  *****




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 14:20:13 EST
From: burkephoto_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Headliner material

In a message dated 2/10/01 6:27:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com writes:


> Message: 7
>    Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 18:49:00 -0000
>    From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com
> Subject: Headliner material.
> 
> Does anybody know where you could pick up a roll of the material for 
> the headliners(I do not want to buy repaired headliners)my head 
> liners are just fine, but I have spares that could use redoing.(the 
> the formed liner is in excellent condition,I just need a roll of that 
> headliner material. Also on my comment about D-1,please go to URL  
> DeloreaNews: http://www.egroups.com/group/DeloreaNews as I do not 
> want to start any kind of bashing on this list.
> 

Claude,

I found exact replacement material from JC Whitney, very reasonably priced.  
To this day I'm not sure what the stock number was of the material.  I did 
alot of back and forth with Whitney and finally got an exact match.

I would suggest you contact Whitney and request swatch samples.  Then return 
the one that matches with your order.

Burke 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 01:06:39 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Cold engine and smoke and gas problem, continued

If the mixture is SLIGHTLY out of adjustment it would have a major 
effect on the gas mileage and not affect the idle quality. The only 
way to properly adjust the fuel mixture unit is to hook the engine up 
to an exhaust gas analyzer. The bad sound you hear I am taking a wild 
guess is the bearings in the idler pulleys by the air conditioning 
compresser. To test this guess take off the belt and run the motor for 
a minute. If the sound goes away change the bearings, it's not 
difficult. Condition is not predicated on mileage although it does 
have an effect, low mileage cars sometimes need more work to get them 
roadworthy than a well maintained higher mileage car. I have seen VERY 
low mileage cars without recalls, origional fan relay, rotten battery, 
sludge for brake fluid, slime for anti-freeze, shoe polish for 
gasoline, you get the picture. The car was purchesed new driven 
alittle and then "stored" until it is worth a fortune. While it may 
not have any interior wear and the outside has no dings it will take a 
lot of "love" and tender care and EXPENSIVE PARTS to get it reliable.
A car such as described is a good candidate for concours without alot 
of work but to be a reliable driver is a long way away. Sadly people 
with a car to sell such as this want top dollar when in reality 
depending on how much you can do yourself you could spend $5000. on 
it. I know it's hard to believe but if you don't prepare for it and 
budget the money and do all of the work the car will disappoint you 
regularly when it doesn't get you home. No matter how good it looks on 
the outside it is still 20 years old.( sometimes so is the gas, brake 
fluid, anti-freeze, heck you get the picture again).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 it didn't have 20 year old gas but everything else probably 
was! including the windshield washer fluid, did it stink!




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> I have been trying to solve my 15 miles to the gallon problem for 
quite
> some time.  My frequency valve operates normal,  (After a quick 
drive
> around the block I hear the buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ugh 
buzzzzzzzzzzzz...) but
> just recently I have noticed white smoke in the mornings and 
terrible
> accleration just after leaving my driveway.  It seems to clear up 
within 1
> minuute of runing the car.  The smoke only occurs when I give the 
car gas
> in 1st gear during this first minute, and it does lag badly.  I am 
not
> leaking any antifreeze, and the car never smells like gas even 
though it
> eats it like it is a bottomless pit.  I also have a slight
> grumble/rattle/scrape/not good sounds bad sound in the engine that I 
can
> only hear when I am outside of the car near the engine.  This engine 
has
> less then 8000 miles on it and was purchased new from houston less 
than 3
> years ago.  I mention this problem again only because the white 
smoke
> thread just started and some people are experiemceing this accl lag 
as
> well.  I would like to urge you to see how much gas you are using, 
maybe we
> are all in the same boat. The only idea I have is that my CO screw 
is out
> of adjustment, but I seem to idle fine, and it seems like a screw 
that far
> out of adjustment would idle real rough.    Any other suggestions?
> Joe Palatinus
> 17167 6808




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 01:46:51 -0000
From: knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com
Subject: Re: Delco Battery?

The requirements for a replacement battery are not particularly 
exclusive and there's not a lot of magic to it. As long as the 
battery is a sealed maintenance free type (a non-sealed type can emit 
gasses and is the most common reason why the battery tie-down strap 
is gone in many cars) and it has the proper side posts to connect to, 
it will generally work fine.

Previous messages on this list have hearlded the merits of the optima 
battery, which might have benefits for the intermittent use our cars 
often see. If your question is with regard to which battery is the 
proper concourse-recognized replacement, the best thing is to check 
directly with the concours organizer (James has put together an 
outstanding concours sponsored by DMC). The concours handbook 
indicates that the accepted battery for competition is the Delco 
Freedom Maintenance Free. No specific battery model is indicated, and 
I suspect a Delco of the proper type with the proper side terminals 
is fine. WHen I judged interiors a couple years ago, I only checked 
for Delco Maintenance Free with proper connections and fit in the 
compartment with tie-down strap correctly fitted.

Personally, I just use a good quality (72 month) maintenance free 
battery with suitable side terminals that has a high CCA (cold-
cranking amps) rating for my daily driver. I have gone through a 
couple batteries and have yet to find a side terminal battery that 
has not fit in the battery compartment (it hasn't even occurred to me 
when picking an arbitrary side-terminal battery that there was any 
issue with fit).

             Knut



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Local K-Mart has Delco Freedom (Maintenance Free) Battery number 
78A72,
> appears to be the exact replacement for the original, is it?  Not 
on the
> cross reference guide I downloaded.  Thanks




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 01:57:39 -0000
From: turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Re: AC and fanzilla question

Ok, I decided to put my 2 cents in. regarding the Fanzilla and the 
price. 
I am en electrical engineer BTW.

When I first got my Delorean and heard about why there was a need for 
the Fanzilla and what it did I went to the shop manual and looked at 
the schematic diagram, in less then 10 minutes I had about four 
different designs drawn up and started bread boarding a few from 
parts I already had. I asked Rob Grady if I could look at the inside 
of the fanzilla because with my background I was capable of making 
something like this myself from parts I already had and for me it 
seemed like a lot of money for something I could build myself. After 
looking over how the fanzilla is manufactured and designed I realized 
that even though I was capable of building a device that would 
accomplish the same type of function, it really didn't pay for me to 
make one because it would not be of the same quality as a 
professionally manufactured product. 
 
I think that everyone would agree that the fanzilla is the best 
product on the market and that's why it is more expensive. It is a 
you get what you pay for item. 

In fairness to John I think he is trying to offer a lower cost 
solution and we shouldn't fault him for that.
I think that one problem is that with such a small market in the 
first place it will always be difficult to introduce a new product to 
the Delorean only market.  

I don't think we should discourage anyone from trying to make new or 
improved Delorean products, there are a lot of smart and talented 
Delorean owners out there and we should encourage all of them to use 
there talent and knowledge. 




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_v...> wrote:
I agree the FanZilla is quite costly, but it DOES address more that 
one problem;by staggering the Fans with a delay the "PowerKick" on 
the engine dissappears,the Fix probably (I can't be soure due to lack 
of experience with the fix) doesn't and you'd still feel your car 
hold back as both Fans and the A/C compressor
kick in all together...

> Greetings from The Netherlands,
> 
> JAN van de Wouw
> 
> Happy Zilla owner/user, 
> but ALLWAYS open to suggestions...




   






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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 01:57:33 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator Question!

Stain, The alternator has the capacity to deliver up to 150 amps if needed 
for running the car or charging the battery. In cooler climates the 90/105 
alternators will deliver all the power the car needs to operate fine but as 
the temperature goes up in the air and the alternator heats up from putting 
out current , the current delivery goes down. If you take it to a shop that 
has the proper current reading equiptment, you will see the current go down 
as it heats up. Is the 150 amp an overkill, yes in most cases. But I can 
build a new alternator with this kind of output for less money. Then if you 
add equiptment or want to have the assurance you have got the battery fully 
charged and are tired of seeing the voltage needle below 13 volts on all the 
short trips that are made, then the higher capacity helps. Like I said, they 
are tested at 2000 rpm, with a 100amp load. Turn on the air conditioner, 
lights and other equiptment and watch the needle go below 13 volts. If it 
doesn't come back up with higher RPM, then you maby get stranded sometimes 
because the battery isn't getting charged enough.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
   



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