From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 408
Date: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 5:54 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: No Heat?
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Funny stuff!
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

3. Fascia Paint
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

4. Re: Alternator Question!
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

5. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

6. Re: Molded body panels and applying them to SS door frames.
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com

7. Re: interior trim removal
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

8. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

9. movie
From: "Ryan Schooling" <fallguy_one_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:14:56 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: No Heat?

I didn't know that when the vacuum was applied to the water valve that it 
would close it.  I thought that it was off until the vacuum line turned it 
on.  Learn new things everyday I suppose  :).  Sorry if I confused anyone.

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:16:02 EST
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Re: Funny stuff!

I have to agree...there seems to be some unnecessary junk talk on the list
lately (although I don't read every message).  Personally, I have
been nothing but satisfied with the help I have received from the
DeLorean community on the DML.  Everyone, especially Dave S., has 
been very kind and extremly informative and helpful (and that's alot 
in dealing with me, seeing that I don't know jack about D's and am
still learning.)  In fact, people make you feel like you're part of
a family here, which really feels great!  I just hope I can pay all you guys
back by helping promote the DML and the DeLorean in general in
my local area.  

Keep up the great work guys,

Richard
(Driving a D around the streets of Modesto as often as I can)



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 22:23:08 EST
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Fascia Paint



Anyone have any tips on DeLorean Fascia refinishing, straightening and 
painting?



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 03:36:15 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Alternator Question!

On most cars the alternater is sized to cover the electric rear 
defogger plus about 50% more thats how much of a load it is. The 
alternater is not expected to cover the entire load of the vehicle, 
the battery is meant to cover some of the peak load. The logic of
this 
is that peak load is not continuos load so after peak load subsides 
the alternater can recharge the battery. The worst case load is 
nightime, hot humid with light drizzle because the wipers, lights, 
defrost a/c, rear defogger is on. Under most conditions that doesn't 
happen too often. On most cars (not Deloreans) the rear defogger is 
shut off by a timer to keep it from running constantly. Maybe that is 
a good area to improve, adding a timer to the defogger instead of 
increasing the alternater. The origional Ducy was way undersized
which 
caused many of the origional problems but the motorola is a better 
match. Be careful in changing the pulley sizes. In some cases it is 
possible to overspeed the alternater at high engine rpm's and cause 
the rotor to explode, they are only rated to spin so fast you know.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Scott, Your correct that the car will only take what it needs as 
long 
> as the source can deliver. My builder told me that he test at 2000
( 
> Factory 3000 ) rpm, 100amp fixed load, ( factory 80 amp load )and
he 
Fans= 28 to 30amps



> 
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 03:48:41 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal

If the tank is not too dirty you can wipe it out without removing it 
from the car. It is not easy to remove and hard to replace. With the 
fuel sender and fuel pump removed suck out all of the gas and air it 
out. Remove the fuel pickup and baffle and if you have a long skinny 
arm and a stick with a rag on the end you should be able to do a good 
job. If the residue is sticky or there is a lot of sludge then the 
tank should be taken out to a shop. Remove the lower plate and stand 
on the tank with your foot and with steady pressure at the rear 
downward it will come out. To remove the baffle there is a nut on a 
stud attached to the bottom of the tank. Be gentle or you can break 
the stud loose. The baffle has to be partialy disassembled to remove 
and then by bending it and pulling through the fuel pump hole. It can 
be left inside while the tank is cleaned if you can't figure it out. 
Don't forget to flush the lines and replace the fuel filter. Unless 
the fuel distributer is causing a problem don't replace it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello List,
>     I am replacing my fuel distributor and cleaning the injectors 
etc but I 
> David




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 04:24:29 -0000
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Re: Molded body panels and applying them to SS door frames.


If you have damaged doors the Doors CAN Be Skinned(I have done it)or 
you can pick up damaged doors cheap enough,(with just skin damage)and 
sell the virgin doors,to recoupe the costs,and then apply the 
fiberglass skins on the Stainless Steel door frames.

Claude
000570

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> what about doors?  Those would still have to be painted, and I 
would imagine
> that a painted door next to a painted plastic or fiberglass panel 
might look
> obviously different... I may be wrong.
> 
> Jack & Virginia Stiefel
> '81 DeLorean Vin 03461 August  1981 Build NYS Lic: 1981 DMC
> '97 Red BMW Z3 Convertible 2.8 6 Cyl -- not the baby 4
> '99 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer Edition
> '01 Black PT Cruiser Limited w/ Flames
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 20:44:26 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: Re: interior trim removal

John, you were doing fine until you said to pop the panel over the door
pull.  I would never recommend that due to the damage inexperienced owners
may cause.  Especially when all you have to do is stick a 10mm socket down
through where the escutcheon trim was (the piece around the lock & latch
buttons) and remove the two bolts that hold the door pull bracket on.  Its
relatively simple and a lot less stress on the panel.

-- 
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 04:51:38 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal

You can get the tank out by working it from the back of the tank out 
first (the narrow end). The front of the tank (wider part) is wedged 
in and has a lip under it (where the tank shield sits on). Remove the 
coolant lines, don't spread them apart. They are made of aluminum and 
can/will fracture if bent. The rear of the tank has to go down first 
then you need the slide the tank out a little for the front of the 
tank to clear that lip. I did it just by pounding the top of the tank 
with the palm of my hand. Try not to use anything sharp to pry the 
tank out with, you could puncture the plastic tank. 

You don't really have to remove the tank to clean it out. Go to your 
local auto store and get a gas pump and pump the rest of the fuel out 
and then go to Home Depot and get a can of Acetone and some rubber 
chemical resistive gloves. Use the Acetone on a rag and wipe the tank 
out, your arm can fit into the fuel pump opening. VERY IMPORTANT: 
Make sure you wear the chemical resistive gloves because your skin 
will absorb the acetone and make you very ill...absorb enough of it 
and it can cause blood poisoning.

To remove the fuel baffle it's fairly simple. Remove the one nut that 
is on the stud in the tank very carefully. That will release the fuel 
baffle. To get it out of there you'll need to remove the wire 
retainers remove the plastic baffle bottom (snaps off) and squeeze 
the plastic baffle together to get it through the fuel pump opening. 
While you have it out, inspect the Fuel pump screen, if there are any 
tears in it replace it. Allot of cars didn't come with the baffle 
bottom so if you don't have one, now's a good time to order one and 
install it. It keeps water and debris from the pump screen. It helps 
if you have the shop manual.

Hope this helped.

Steve


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello List,
>     I am replacing my fuel distributor and cleaning the injectors 
etc but I 
> have not started the car yet.  Since my car sat I would like to 
pull the tank 
> out and clean it.  How do I go about cleaning it?  I removed the 
pump, and 
> the tank really doesnt look that bad inside but the gas has a 
orange/yellow 
> tint to it with a few small particles on the bottom of the tank.  I 
will also 
> be replacing some of the fuel hoses running to the back.  does the 
tank need 
> to be professionally cleaned?  How do I go about removing some of 
the 
> components inside the tank?  any help would be greatly 
appreciated.  
>     I have the tank shield removed but I can not get the tank to 
come out.  
> The fuel pump and filler line is removed and the tank is empty.  
any ideas?  
> I've tried kicking it out from the top but it wont move an inch.
> 
> Thanks list
> David




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 05:25:23 -0000
From: "Ryan Schooling" <fallguy_one_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: movie

I hope I'm not starting a rumor flying thread here but here goes. On ebay 
someone is selling their D and with it they are selling a whole ton of DMC 
memrobillia and one of the items is a t-shirt for the delorean movie Room 
501(if memory serves) Whats this all about where can I get a copy?
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________