From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 409
Date: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 5:17 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DeLorean Reference
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055_at_dml_juno.com>

2. Re: Tail light cover screws
From: milestwo_at_dml_aol.com

3. Stainless Steel Shift Plates
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

4. Re: Hello list!
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Alternator Question!
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

6. Re: Fascia Paint
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

7. Battery Cut Off Switch
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com

8. RE: movie
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

9. Re: movie
From: jeff hay <pkp_pledge_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: interior trim removal
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com

11. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

12. RE: Tail light cover screws
From: "DELIOS, Greg" <greg.delios_at_dml_baesystems.com>

13. stainless steel shift plate
From: dirk_at_dml_bettycat.de

14. Re: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>

16. Re: Tail light cover screws
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

17. Re: movie
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

18. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

19. Re: Battery Cut Off Switch
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

21. Re: Re: interior trim removal
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: Re: door locks/zillas/solenoids
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

23. Radiator and Hose Removal
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_copper.net>

24. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal omission
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:53:41 -0800
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: DeLorean Reference

Last night on Dateline NBC (9pm Pac.) Michael J. Fox was interviewed
about PD (Parkinsons disease) and the Reporter asked him if He wished he
had one of those DeLoreans so he could go back in time, before this
disease. He said he would disable the time machine. 
Just found if interesting

Trevor Johnson
DMC #'s 4055 and 6974
www.geocities.com/dmc6974
www.deloreanstore.com
________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 01:48:31 EST
From: milestwo_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Tail light cover screws

Go to your local hardware or tool outlet and get a reverse cutting drill bit, 
a little smaller than the size of the tail light screws. Since these are 
Philips head screws they will start in the center. Almost all of the time the 
screw will come loose before drilling thru it. Works great on broken bolts 
also, does take a drill that will run in reverse.
Lloyd--#3502


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 23:59:12 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Shift Plates


I have placed a basic drawing of what the shift plate will PROBABLY look
like IF I can find a place that will manufacture it in the Files area on
Yahoo . . .let me know if anyone comes up with other ideas. Etc.

Thanks!

Michael C. Babb
MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA, CCNA, Network+
mailto:Michael_at_dml_BabbTechnology.com
home: 919.303.0058
cell: 919.270.2488





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 04:06:00 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hello list!

In a message dated 2/11/01 2:02:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net writes:

<< Hello people, I'm trying to determine whether you're a bunch of nice
 folks trying to help the less fortunate or just waiting for someone to
 make a statement of some sort so that you can jump on them.  I've been
 an owner for about 2 weeks and can't possibly know everything there is
 to know in a time frame of less than 60 days >>

The DML is a great forum for asking questions, especially if you're a new 
owner.  There are 4 great sources for DeLorean info: (in no particular order) 
 1) the fulltime professional DeLorean shops for specific and reliable info; 
2) the manuals for general info but they're like looking for a word in the 
dictionary when you don't know how to spell it... mixed results and they 
can't talk back; local D clubs with experienced members... if you're lucky 
enough to avail yourself; and 4) the DML where most questions can get a 
reasonable answer (usually) without making you feel dumb.  I've learned a lot 
by reading the DML, getting my newbie... okay, my dumb questions out of the 
way, then I have a bit of a handle on the subject when I call my supplier to 
order parts.  Works for me!  Tomorrow it'll be one year since I became a 
DeLorean owner.  Still livin' the dream!   :)

Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 14:13:51 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Re: Alternator Question!

David Teitelbaum wrote:

>On most cars (not Deloreans) the rear defogger is
>shut off by a timer to keep it from running constantly. Maybe that is
>a good area to improve, adding a timer to the defogger instead of
>increasing the alternater.

I'd like to quote the ownersmanual (page 11) on this:

> Rear Window Defogger Indicator
> This indicator will illuminate when the defogger is in use.
> The system incorporates a timing device which automatically
> switches the circuit on or off in a continuous cycle of
> several minutes duration for optimum efficiency.

It states that this function is for efficiency in defogging, 
but in this way the AVERAGE load is cut in half (on a 50% duty cycle).
The timer is the right-most relay on the rear row of relays 
(looking towards the rear of the car), nearest to the doorlock module.

The systems that automatically switch off usually have a push button
instead of a rocker switch, so it seems to me that incorporating this 
on the original system would not be all that easy.

Just leave it the way it is, I live in a humid climate and haven't 
had to use it so far, while on my other car (with a larger cabin)
I need the defogger allmost instantly in fall and winter.
The heat from the engine and the "insulation" to wind of the rearwindow
by the louvers and the rear quarter panels have part in this: 
the window doesn't get really cold, so it doesn't fog up that easily...

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

Check out the DeLorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
--------------------------------




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:24:21 EST
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fascia Paint

In a message dated 2/12/01 11:51:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com writes:


> Anyone have any tips on DeLorean Fascia refinishing, straightening and 
> painting?
> 

I believe Ken Koncelik and some others recently tackled this problem last 
year.  I would email him and ask if he doesnt respond first.  I believe he 
had very good results with some fascias that needed extensive work

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:28:08 EST
From: delorean31_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Battery Cut Off Switch

I was wondering what experiences other owners have had with battery cut off 
switches.  I have gone through two of the ones that were offered on the list 
a while ago and by some parts suppliers.  I am referring to the ones that 
attach to the post and the cable with the turn off knob in the middle.  I 
have had two break as they are very weak and thin in the middle.  I would 
prefer something more reliable, and that doesn't require drilling or mounting 
to the vehicle in a way that will damage it.  Also preferably mounts in a 
place that is hidden.

Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:48:31 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: movie

There is supposed to be a movie in the works about the DeLorean saga.  Try
checking out www.room501.com (I couldn't get the site up this morning,
hopefully just a temporary problem).

Michael

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Schooling [mailto:fallguy_one_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 12:25 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] movie

I hope I'm not starting a rumor flying thread here but here goes. On ebay
someone is selling their D and with it they are selling a whole ton of DMC
memrobillia and one of the items is a t-shirt for the delorean movie Room
501(if memory serves) Whats this all about where can I get a copy?
_________________________________________________________________





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:12:07 -0800 (PST)
From: jeff hay <pkp_pledge_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: movie

Ryan,
I did some research on deloreans a while back and
discover a small film group is making a delorean movie
called room 501.  That was the room where delorean was
arrested for those false cocaine charges.  To my
knowledge the film is not finished and maybe not even
started.  I also think they were filming in houston
and some website even offer walkons with people with
extra deloreans.  I think the movie is based from the
cops point of view, so I am not sure if it will favoe
delorean or not.  I hope this helps, I am sure that if
you search for stuff about the delorean on the net
that you will come across more information.  As for
the shirt, I think it is just promo and try to get the
word out.

Jeff Hay
vin ????
p.s. some is selling a D on ebay cheap. it needs some
work, but at last check it was at 4,000. check it out.

--- Ryan Schooling <fallguy_one_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> I hope I'm not starting a rumor flying thread here
> but here goes. On ebay 
> someone is selling their D and with it they are
> selling a whole ton of DMC 
> memrobillia and one of the items is a t-shirt for
> the delorean movie Room 
> 501(if memory serves) Whats this all about where can
> I get a copy?
>
_________________________________________________________________
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> 
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
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> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
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> 


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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 16:56:04 -0000
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: interior trim removal

Thanks, Darryl, I figured there was probably an easier way to do
that without possibly causing damage to the panel, I just
didn't know how.

John Yeoman





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:30:06 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal

(Moderator's note: It's essential that the battery is disconnected prior 
to the following)



Before you try jumping up and down on your gas tank, try this:

First, not to be too pessimistic, but sit your fire extinguisher at the ready 
nearby.  Any collectible car should be equipped with one.  There was a thread 
about it on the DML a few weeks ago.  Also:
* Do it outside, preferably with a breeze blowing.  The smell is overwhelming.
* Lay a fender blanket or similar over your fender since you'll have to use a 
step stool or shorty step ladder to climb into the trunk.  Don't ding that 
fender! Or lean anything against it that you're climbing on.
* Be sure you get fuel resistant gloves.  "Household" type playtex or 
whatever will disintegrate.
* Suction it thru the fuel pump hole not the filler neck.  It's easier.
* Use a "kerosene pump" with a large stiff suction leg.  It'll still take a 
long time, but the cheap siphons with the flimsy suction hose like an IV line 
are worthless.  The tank holds about 12 or 13 gal full, as I recall. Even a 
nearly empty tank can pretty well fill a 5 gallon gas can.
* You can shine a light down the sending unit hole to see what you're doing 
in the pump hole with the baffle.  I used a strong flashlight.  I've seen the 
bulbs burst on too many drop lights... don't want to see it happen in a 
potentially explosive atmosphere!
* Rinse some acetone thru your fuel sending unit while it's still wet. It's 
probably sludgy.
* After you pump out all you can, use a clean, lintfree but expendable towel 
to mop out the inside of the tank.  Careful... there's a wire-like structure 
in there.  Don't beat up on it. Wring gas out carefully into a large metal 
pan, sludge and all.  My long arm was TOO long and wouldn't make the bend 
going in.  I used a stick and towel, wrist deep.  
* After you get the gas pumped out and wiped, let it sit overnight to air 
out, if possible.  Then rewipe with the acetone.
* Replace any rusted components on the pump boot support.
* Check the wires leading from the pump.  They may be kinked and brittle from 
heat and age.  Replace if needed.  The studs on the pump and connector loops 
on the wires are different sizes, so it's hard to get them reversed. 
* Wires seat in the 2 grooves on the front side of the boot, to seal better. 
* Check condition of boot bottom.. It may look great on top but be checked 
and deteriorated inside the tank.  Check pickup hose too.  Rinse pickup 
filter with acetone.  Wipe carefully if needed to clean it.
* The return hose is held to the baffle by a clip, so it feeds gas to the 
inside of the fuel baffle.
*  The picture of the baffle in the widely copied Service Bulletins has an 
error: it shows the smaller, outer baffle spring upside down. :(  The short 
legs should face down, hooked into the lip of the lower baffle pan.
* Put the baffle nut back on finger tight, then carefully give an eighth turn 
with a metric socket or nut driver.
* Be sure the "tooth" in the sending unit engages the notch in the hole when 
you replace it.
*  The copper seals should be replaced on any disconnected fuel lines.  
(You'll usually have them disconnected at the pump end, for boot replacement, 
or manueverability)
* The nut on top of the pump should be about level with the top of the fuel 
pump boot/collar/support, with the pump sitting level.
* The hoses feed toward the rear of the car, back, up and then over to the 
side.
* The pump cover seal is snug, but must fit in place or water will get in 
your pump and wreck it.  If it's misshapped with age, replace it.
* Check the filler neck hose fort deterioration while you have the pump cover 
off.  You can see the lower end of it.
* After it's reinstalled, (with the access cover still off, so you can 
inspect it,) fill the tank to the halfway point (not with your sludgy gas,) 
and start the car, carefully checking for leaks. Be sure the gas cap is 
closed snugly or the tank won't pressurize, and you might not see a possible 
leakage spot. Then try with a nearly full tank. 
* If you're satisfied with your handiwork, replace the fuel pump access 
cover, spare tire, etc.  After you run through a full tankful, replace the 
inline fuel filter under the car, with its copper seals.
BTW, if you partially reassemble the pump after disassembling and examining 
it, to make it driveable while you wait for parts and a few free hours, be 
sure to replace the access cover, or your tools and screws in the trunk could 
wind up bouncing out all over the road. 
Hope that helps!

Wayne A Ernst
The New DeLorean Manuals Project



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 08:30:51 +1030
From: "DELIOS, Greg" <greg.delios_at_dml_baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: Tail light cover screws

Hi all,
just my 2 cents worth on this one. Before I'd start cutting or drilling, I
would certainly go for WD-40 or similar in an attempt to loosen the screw.
Another option to try as an adjunct would be isopropyl alcohol. IPA does
dissolve some metal oxides, and it may be enough to loosen the screw for
you.

Remember let them soak for a day to get best effect. With the IPA, you need
to keep applying it as it evaporates.

Just my thoughts,
Cheers,
Greg


-----Original Message-----
From: milestwo_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:milestwo_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, 13 February 2001 17:49
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Tail light cover screws


Go to your local hardware or tool outlet and get a reverse cutting drill
bit, 
a little smaller than the size of the tail light screws. Since these are 
Philips head screws they will start in the center. Almost all of the time
the 
screw will come loose before drilling thru it. Works great on broken bolts 
also, does take a drill that will run in reverse.
Lloyd--#3502


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:37:16 +0100
From: dirk_at_dml_bettycat.de
Subject: stainless steel shift plate

Hello Steve, Hello Michael :)

Yes, we remember your plans about this Ferrari style stainless steel shift
plate. If we get a good copy, maybe a drawing or something like this, we are
willing to cut some specimens and try them.
But we are not sure if itīs generally possible. We received some mails from
DeLorean owners who tried this but failed. Anyway, if someone is able to
give us a tested and practical 1:1 copy, we will do this shift plate, maybe
in different variations (original grinding, high polished, black ....)

By the way, we have new and updated internet pages and a new URL as well.
Have a look at www.delorean-steel-products.de


Dirk Wacker (VIN# 6795)



[Original message]

   Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 04:47:17 -0700
   From: "Steve Bunnell" <dmcsteve_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: S.S. Shift Plate

Hi List.  I was wondering if anyone ever came up with or found a Stainless
Steel Shift plate, similar to the one's Ferrari uses.  I know that Michael
Babb was working on it about a year ago.  I think he was discussing the
possibility with Dirk Wacker out of Germany.  Did anything ever come of it?
Or was it deemed impossible because of the tight shift pattern?  I still
think it would be a neat add-on to the car, if possible.

-Steve Bunnell
#11611







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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:23:08 EST
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal

Thanks a ton guys!
    I used the crow bar and it dropped out with a little prying from the 
back.  The tank doesnt look that bad at all inside but has some small 
particles sitting on the bottom.  I dont think I will be able to wipe them 
all up without rinsing it out.  If I was to take it to the pressure washer 
would that hurt anything?  please let me know.
    

Thank You all!  I really appreciate it.
David



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:56:17 +0100
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal


> Hello List,
>     I am replacing my fuel distributor and cleaning the injectors etc but
I
> have not started the car yet.  Since my car sat I would like to pull the
tank
> out and clean it.  How do I go about cleaning it?
...

David!

When I removed my tank, it looked really ugly inside: yellow, brown,
gunky...
The rubber from the fuel pump duct was so badly dissolved that it was
dripping inside the tank! It was really a mess.
Half a day long, I tried scraping away the gunk but it was so sticky that
much of it remained in there.

Out of desperation, I filled the tank halfway with water, then poured in
plenty of washing pouder. I stirred well, and let it sit for a day or two.
With a hard brush, I was then able to clean everything out without a problem
(except for squeezing my arm through the opening :-)
After that, I washed out the tank MANY times with fresh water, to be sure
that there is no more washing powder in there and dried the tank thorougly.

It looks like new now!

hope this helps,

Ralf
VIN 10284




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:05:45 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Tail light cover screws

Keep in mind that the screws go into aluminum anchors set into the 
plastic facia - similar to expansion anchors that you use in drywall. 
These similar to the riv-nuts that are used into the fiberglass all 
over the car. If you try and reverse them out you will probably just 
end up with about a 1/2" hole ripped or melted into the facia under 
each screw location. 

It's probably best to drill out the heads of the screws, remove the 
light assemblies, then carefully  re-tap the aluminum anchors or 
replace them with Molly Bolts (Drywall anchors) or something similar. 

For everyone else, even if your screws are still in good shape, this 
is a great application for some anti-sieze compound since you are 
putting steel screws into aluminum anchors. I use anti-sieze on 
anything going into the aluminum body rivnuts.

Dave Swingle




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:17:37 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: movie

Actually the person (Daniel) making the movie (and selling the 
DeLorean documentary videotapes) is a DML member. He also happens to 
use the server that Ken's car show website was on, and is likewise a 
victim of the same problem that caused Ken's deloreancarshow.com site 
to disappear. That's why he hasn't piped up here and is why the 
www.room501.com site is not available. 

The movie is still in the pre-production stages. Daniel will probably 
write more on this later, I let him know that there was some 
discussion going on here. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jeff hay <pkp_pledge_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Ryan,
> I did some research on deloreans a while back and
> discover a small film group is making a delorean movie
> called room 501.  






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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:21:30 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal

The fuel tank is pretty indestructable, just be careful about 
breaking off the screw at the bottom that holds the plastic parts in 
place. There was some discussion about this a month or two ago. 

Washing it out should cause no problems as long as you take 
everything out first, and get ALL the moisture out before you put it 
back in the car. Usual cleaning fluid for such things is acetone 
rather than water, but it is somewhat hazardous to your health. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Thanks a ton guys!
>     I used the crow bar and it dropped out with a little prying 
from the 





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 18:48:08 EST
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Battery Cut Off Switch

Gary,
I found one that is a big toggle switch. I had to go to an RV store to find 
it. Requires no mounting to the car. Mounts to the battery. Cost was about 
$20.00. Email me if you cant find one and I can give you the stores #. The 
hardest part of locating one was most cut off are for top post batteries. 
This was the only side post cut off I could find.
Bruce Battles
Vin #06569


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:53:25 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal

You can use water to clean it out since the tank is made of plastic, 
use some good degreaser detergent to clean it out. I would still 
recomend using Acetone to clean it out since it will cut the sludge 
better, but it is your call and either way will work.

Just a quick note: Since you have the tank out check your frame where 
the tank gets wedged in. If there is any signs of rust or blisters in 
the epoxy i recomend taking care of it now before you put the tank 
back in. If you do have any rust, scrape back some of the epoxy 
surrounding the rust until you see "silver" metal (rust travels under 
the epoxy coating) and paint over it with some POR-15. I had some 
minor rust spots in there and i believe Nick P had some really bad 
rust/rot holes in that area (right Nick?). It's usually bad on the 
drivers side where the master brake cylinder is loctaed. If any brake 
fluid drips down there from a cylinder going bad or you spilled some 
while filling it, chances are it it softened the epoxy. Not saying 
it's a common problem or anything, just giving some advice before you 
put the tank back since you can't see that area of the frame with the 
tank in.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Thanks a ton guys!
>     I used the crow bar and it dropped out with a little prying 
from the 
> back.  The tank doesnt look that bad at all inside but has some 
small 
> particles sitting on the bottom.  I dont think I will be able to 
wipe them 
> all up without rinsing it out.  If I was to take it to the pressure 
washer 
> would that hurt anything?  please let me know.
>     
> 
> Thank You all!  I really appreciate it.
> David




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:17:06 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: interior trim removal

hello all,

following John's suggestions and steve's scans (thanks a LOT for those 
jpeg's!) i have successfully taken apart the panels on my driver's side door. 
 the right-hand screw that holds the door handle on almost got stripped on 
the head, but luckily i gave it one more shot and it turned loose.  
excellent!  

i replaced my air deflector (which fortunately didn't need rivets drilled 
out, whoever it was that told me that!!) and i took the time to bring the 
lower panel home so i could clean the lower carpet trim really well.  i used 
some 409 carpet cleaner, and what a difference that made!  the carpet is good 
as new, now!

the only real difficulties i had with my door was i broke a couple of the 
plastic tree rivets when removing the upper panel from the outside.  i think 
it will still go back on with the rest of them still good without leaving 
anything looking bad though.  other than that, many thanks, once again, to 
the DML for making life as easy as possible:-)

andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:26:40 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: door locks/zillas/solenoids

Hey all,

just thought you might like to know some info i found out today while working 
on my locks.

i wanted to buy a good lubricant for my lock mechanisms so i could lube 
everything up and then determine the cause of my problems.  well i went to 
checker auto and they tried to sell me graphite, saying that graphite is what 
they suggest and it's the best solution they have.  hmmm.  i was a little 
wary of this because on my work car, an 87 plymouth duster, my driver's side 
lock was getting increasingly difficult to get a key inside a couple years 
ago.  well i put graphite inside, and for a few days, it was like butter 
putting my key in.  then things turned ugly.  it quickly got worse and worse 
and now i can't even get a key to go in all the way, and it's been like that 
for over a year!  i've always blamed the graphite on that, even though i'm 
not sure if it was entirely responsible.  anyway i wound up going to a lock 
shop which had some really good liquid spray lubricant and i bought that.  i 
asked the guy what he thinks about using graphite in car locks and he flat 
out said that it's not recommended because it usually has moisture in it and 
it winds up corroding sealed areas like car lock key holes.  interesting!    
i would follow this guy's advice and use this liquid stuff for a car like a 
DeLorean where you'd be really sorry if you went the cheap way out!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:18:09 -0500
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_copper.net>
Subject: Radiator and Hose Removal

This seems like my 5 trillionth post in the past month but I have had quite
a few problems lately. Sorry :). What I have run into now is my hoses and
radiator have begun to leak. The hoses have dry-rotted and radiator end-caps
are beginning to leak. What I need to know is if anyone who has replaced the
hoses and radiator have any tips(troublespots, things to look for and
anything dangerous) before I begin my little project. Also how long it might
take for all this work.

Joel




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:34:36 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal omission

In a message dated 2/13/01 6:13:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com writes:

<< (Moderator's note: It's essential that the battery is disconnected prior 
 to the following)
  >>

Thank you Bruce... I stand corrected.  I did disconnect mine, to avoid the 
possibility of spark, but I obviously forgot to add that bit.  To anyone (Ed 
B. comes to mind,) who thinks the DML contains a ton of potentially hazardous 
ideas: this is a moderated list, and the moderators do their best to watch 
over such things!
-Wayne



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