From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 410
Date: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:14 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Battery Cut Off Switch
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Alternator Question!
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

3. Re: Tail light problems
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

4. Re: Radiator and Hose Removal
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

5. Re: Re: interior trim removal
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>

6. Link...
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Battery Cut Off Switch
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

8. Re: Re: Alternator Question!
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: door locks/zillas/solenoids
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

10. Re: interior trim removal
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

11. Re: Fuel tank installing (was cleaning/removal)
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

12. Re: frame rust...and resto update (was:Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal)
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Radiator and Hose Removal
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

14. Re: Re: Alternator Question!
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

15. Seat Covers...
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Battery Cut Off Switch
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: door locks/zillas/solenoids
From: Shannon Yocom <ss_at_dml_delorean.com>

18. Battery Cutoff switch
From: jcox4001_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Alternator Question!
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

20. Front section Frame repair
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Re: Alternator Question!
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: Re: Alternator Question!
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 04:52:30 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Battery Cut Off Switch

Gary, I know we don't want to cut holes, but the small cut off switch 
I use is 300 amp rating and I have been using them on my cars with no 
problems for 3years. Where I have it mounted you can see on my web 
site under Talk & View, it's easy to reach behind the seat an flip it 
off. No body knows I'm doing it. I got them from Northern Tool. We 
have two of those stores in Dallas, I'm sure RV parks also have 
plenty. If you don't find what you want, let me know I have other 
sources with all kinds. 
John 
www.specialTauto.com


 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., delorean31_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I was wondering what experiences other owners have had with battery 
cut off 
> switches.  I have gone through two of the ones that were offered on 
the list 
> a while ago and by some parts suppliers.  I am referring to the 
ones that 
> attach to the post and the cable with the turn off knob in the 
middle.  I 
> have had two break as they are very weak and thin in the middle.  I 
would 
> prefer something more reliable, and that doesn't require drilling 
or mounting 
> to the vehicle in a way that will damage it.  Also preferably 
mounts in a 
> place that is hidden.
> 
> Gary Gore
> Activities Director
> DeLorean Mid Atlantic
> VIN 3360
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 05:01:55 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Alternator Question!

You are right, I stand corrected. The rear defogger as it is is 
supposed to have a timer. I must admit though I can't tell if it is 
timming out, on my car the light stays on as long as the switch is on 
and I always hit it with my elbow! If not for the light I woudn't know 
I had it on and if the heater does go on and off the light doesn't. 
Maybe my timer relay is defective, I never checked it out. I have 
observed that on cars with a sloped rear window they tend to fog up 
faster and more often, the more slope the worse the condition. In the 
Delorean the rear window is almost vertical and so does not fog up as 
fast. Maybe the engine heat also has something to do with it. In any 
case by limiting the duty cycle of the biggest load (short of the 
starter) it limits the peak load imposed on the system. IMHO if you 
can't get by with the 90 amp Motorola and you have not measureably 
added to the car's electrical load then the battery probably has lost 
some of it's capacity or maybe you are stopping and starting the motor 
too often and not fully recharging the battery. Cars were meant to be 
used on a regular basis and a battery loses a small percentage of it's 
charge every day. If not a daily driver then the battery is usually 
chronically undercharged. Don't forget we also deal with a very 
complicated and leaky courtesy light circuit with all of those diodes 
and the clock (although a small draw they are all cumulative). By 
putting a larger output alternater on the car that can create more 
electical power at a lower rpm you can't get something for nothing. It 
will cause a larger drag on the motor at low rpm's and could possibly 
affect the idle quality. Putting a smaller pulley on it besides having 
the effect of spinning the alternater faster at low rpm's also reduces 
the mechanical advantage the motor has increasing again the load on 
the motor. Beware of "improvements" that have not stood the test of 
time and have been thourghly engineered. 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> David Teitelbaum wrote:
> 
> >On most cars (not Deloreans) the rear defogger is
> >shut off by a timer to keep it from running constantly. Maybe that 
is
> >a good area to improve, adding a timer to the defogger instead of
> >increasing the alternater.
> 
> I'd like to quote the ownersmanual (page 11) on this:
> 
> > Rear Window Defogger Indicator
> > This indicator will illuminate when the defogger is in use.
> > The system incorporates a timing device which automatically
> > switches the circuit on or off in a continuous cycle of
> > several minutes duration for optimum efficiency.
> 
>--------------------------------




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 02:05:14 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Tail light problems

Here is another tail light fix option
http://store.yahoo.com/dsvstore/zillalights.html

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 8:25 PM
Subject: [DML] Tail light problems


> I covered this a day or two ago but I've been reading all of the
> archived material as quickly as time allows and several fixes have been
> mentioned, self tapping screws, wedges, little screws and nuts, etc.
> That aint it folks!  It's not a problem of things getting loose due to
> vibration, It's oxidization, air gets in there and pretty soon no actual
> metal to metal contact.  The other fixes would work for a long time, if
> you drilled out the rivets, did a good cleanup job, and then put the
> shims, screws, etc., back.  Other than that, there are only two long
> term fixes, either solder or replacement.   Do it right, you'll be
> happier.





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 05:21:47 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Radiator and Hose Removal

There are no secrets to replacing the hoses. The radiator should be 
replaced with one with brass tanks. The best advice is to call a 
Delorean vender and get the cooling system master kit which consists 
of all of the hoses, clamps, bleeder screw, water pump, intake 
gaskets, and "o" rings. Be careful removing the intake and 
distribution pipes, the bolts, if corroded, will break off. If you 
don't replace ALL of the hoses and gaskets (some are behind the water 
pump under the intake) then you will not cure all of the leaks. 
Replacing the water pump is just "insurance" while you are in there 
besides if it's the origional 20 year old pump how long is it going to 
last anyway? The belts and idler bearings are easy to replace also and 
to make the cooling system "bulletproof" change the header bottle to 
metal, add the self bleeder, and install the Fanzilla. A new otterstat 
switch and seal completes the job. Make sure you have the larger sized 
circuit breaker for the cooling fans and that they both run and blow 
in the correct direction. When you finish and leak test make sure to 
keep a 50%50 mix of anti-freeze ALWAYS.  Besides the electrical system 
the cooling system is a "weak link". Going over the system in this 
manner with all of these mods will make it as reliable as any modern 
car.
David Teitelbaum 
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> This seems like my 5 trillionth post in the past month but I have 
had quite
> a few problems lately. Sorry :). What I have run into now is my 
hoses and
> radiator have begun to leak. The hoses have dry-rotted and radiator 
end-caps
> are beginning to leak. What I need to know is if anyone who has 
replaced the
> hoses and radiator have any tips(troublespots, things to look for 
and
> anything dangerous) before I begin my little project. Also how long 
it might
> take for all this work.
> 
> Joel




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 02:16:58 -0600
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: interior trim removal

Andy,

Those plastic tree things are actually easy to get a hold of if you need
them.  They are common on most vehicles' interior panels.  A big bag of them
goes relatively cheap, too.  Check your favorite auto parts store (or
DeLorean vendor) if you are interested.

Jake


----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: interior trim removal


<snip>
> the only real difficulties i had with my door was i broke a couple of the
> plastic tree rivets when removing the upper panel from the outside.
<snip>




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 14:59:21 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Link...

Ok, I know this really doesn't have anything to do with DeLoreans, but I 
think all of the car nuts on this list, including myself, will enjoy seeing 
this link.

http://www.monsterlimo.com/mLimo2.htm

It proves that ANYTHING can be done... even a DeLorean limo.

---Dan

By the way, the wheels are from an 18 wheeler. The company that made the 
wheel adapters is the same one that made the adapters for the aftermarket 
wheels on my DeLorean.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:18:59 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Cut Off Switch

Gary / list,

This has come up before. I used a marine, type black plastic one with
detachable red handle. This I mounted in the top right hand corner of the
battery compartment (looking back), it just needs one wood screw to locate
it. The down side is that you need to drill a large hole in the detachable
front plastic cover and  a small slit in the carpet to allow the key to pass
through. You can operate in easily, by just reaching behind the seat. You
can also remove the red plastic key completely as a security measure. I like
it because its so easy to use, so I do USE it. Save the problem of battery
drain do to door/ bonnet light coming on at shows as a bonus....Just my
thoughts.

Chris P Hon Sec DOC Uk..any one coming to Eurofest can see it for
themselves.


----- Original Message -----
From: <delorean31_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 1:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Battery Cut Off Switch


> I was wondering what experiences other owners have had with battery cut
off
> switches.  I have gone through two of the ones that were offered on the
list
> a while ago and by some parts suppliers.  I am referring to the ones that
> attach to the post and the cable with the turn off knob in the middle.  I
> have had two break as they are very weak and thin in the middle.  I would
> prefer something more reliable, and that doesn't require drilling or
mounting
> to the vehicle in a way that will damage it.  Also preferably mounts in a
> place that is hidden.
>
> Gary Gore
> Activities Director
> DeLorean Mid Atlantic
> VIN 3360
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:43:52 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Alternator Question!

How much test of time does it take, De Lorean has been using the smaller 
pulley and it's on all the returns I get. Jan, Don't let someone scare you 
about the pulley's. There fine. The new alternators are made to handle it 
just fine. The new ones arn't 20 year old parts. New bearings,rotor,stator. 
Made today. Not nos parts. It's just a few MM. As far as drag on the motor. I 
have never seen it and run them and others all the time. 
John Hervey    



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 15:03:42 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: door locks/zillas/solenoids

Graphite lubricant is only good on tracks such as on sliding doors. 
My father owns a deli and puts Dry Graphite lubricant on his sliding 
refrigerator door tracks. Liquid lubricant will get ugly after some 
use and traps particles (like flour) and gets a little tricky to 
clean up. Graphite wouldn't be good on any part of a door lock system 
because it needs to be applied every so often, it doesn't "stick" 
like liquid lubricant and that would be a pain in the neck to do to 
the internal door mechanism. That is probably why it was easy to put 
your key into your keyhole on your other car for some time then it 
went back to being difficult. 

As for having moisture in it? Maybe true but if it was, as I applied 
the lubricant to the tracks I would have expected the graphite to be 
clumped together as I poured it out.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
<SNIP>
>well i went to checker auto and they tried to sell me graphite, 
>saying that graphite is what they suggest and it's the best solution 
>they have.  
<SNIP>  
>well i put graphite inside, and for a few days, it was like butter 
> putting my key in.  then things turned ugly.  
<SNIP>
>anyway i wound up going to a lock shop which had some really good 
>liquid spray lubricant and i bought that.  i asked the guy what he 
>thinks about using graphite in car locks and he flat out said that 
>it's not recommended because it usually has moisture in it and it 
>winds up corroding sealed areas like car lock key holes. 
>interesting!    
> i would follow this guy's advice and use this liquid stuff for a 
>car like a DeLorean where you'd be really sorry if you went the 
cheap >way out!
> 
> Andy
> 
> Soma576_at_dml_a...
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 15:11:01 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: interior trim removal

Andy,
You can get replacement plastic tree snaps at any good auto store. 
They are a common part. They are usually packaged under the 
name "Help!". Bring in one of your old ones to compare it, they are 
very inexpensive.

Oh and your welcome for the scanned instructions, glad they helped. :)

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> hello all,
> 
> following John's suggestions and steve's scans (thanks a LOT for 
those 
> jpeg's!) i have successfully taken apart the panels on my driver's 
side door. 
 <SNIP> 
>the only real difficulties i had with my door was i broke a couple 
>of the plastic tree rivets when removing the upper panel from the 
>outside.  i think it will still go back on with the rest of them 
>still good without leaving anything looking bad though.  other than 
>that, many thanks, once again, to the DML for making life as easy as 
>possible:-)
> 
> andy
> 
> Soma576_at_dml_a...
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 15:29:18 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Fuel tank installing (was cleaning/removal)

When you go to re-install the tank, put in the front (widest part) in 
over the lip then push up the tank from the rear as far as you can. 
Then using a Floor jack, jack it up to push it in the rest of the 
way. Place a flat piece of wood in-between the jack and the tank.

Steve





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 10:56:39 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: frame rust...and resto update (was:Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal)

In a message dated 2/13/01 8:01:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
srubano_at_dml_optonline.com writes:

<< I had some 
 minor rust spots in there and i believe Nick P had some really bad 
 rust/rot holes in that area (right Nick?). It's usually bad on the 
 drivers side where the master brake cylinder is located. If any brake 
 fluid drips down there from a cylinder going bad or you spilled some 
 while filling it, chances are it it softened the epoxy.  >>
Steve is right on this.  I uploaded a few pictures that shows the extent of 
the damage I had on my frame.  Let me just say that it was BAD.  Its all 
fixed now and I have more pictures of when we put the frame back together 
(still need to be developed).  When I was in cleveland, the guy that I had do 
the work on my frame, cut the whole front half of my frame off so he could 
work on it.  As you would expect I was PISSED.  It all turned out good 
though, my brother welded the front half of the frame back on along with that 
section on the drivers side that was all rusted up, and just yesterday I was 
able to successfully mount the body and frame with the mounting holes all 
mating up with each other.  Today I am going to be working on the tranny 
linkage and inner driveshafts, and if I have time the fuel line connections 
on the motor.  

Here are the links to the pictures....

http://members.aol.com/njp548/framerust.gif 

http://members.aol.com/njp548/framerust2.gif 

http://members.aol.com/njp548/frametogether_rust.gif

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 16:35:46 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Radiator and Hose Removal

Not that bad to remove the radiator. As always before doing any major 
repairs on any car disconnect the battery especially since you'll be 
working near the electric cooling fans. First drain out your cooling 
system, block the rear wheels (to prevent the car from rolling, 
jackup the front of the car and support it on jack stands and remove 
the front wheels. Disconnect the hoses from the radiator and unplug 
the fans, take them out. The fan assembly is held to the radiator by 
four studs and nuts. The radiator is held in by two studs and nuts on 
the bottom (attaching it to those steel arms) and two bolts ontop 
attaching it to the support brackets. You'll want to try and seperate 
the A/C condensor (located in front of the radiator) from the 
radiator, you don't want to disconnect the A/C lines. It's atached to 
the the radiater by 4 nuts. After removing all that you can remove 
the radiator. Install the new one in reverse order. Over all should 
take you a few hours. 

Make sure you fill the system with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze to 
water and bleed the cooling system properly. While bleeding the 
system for air turn on your heat in the car, this will remove any air 
from the heater core as well.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> This seems like my 5 trillionth post in the past month but I have 
had quite
> a few problems lately. Sorry :). What I have run into now is my 
hoses and
> radiator have begun to leak. The hoses have dry-rotted and radiator 
end-caps
> are beginning to leak. What I need to know is if anyone who has 
replaced the
> hoses and radiator have any tips(troublespots, things to look for 
and
> anything dangerous) before I begin my little project. Also how long 
it might
> take for all this work.
> 
> Joel




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:46:55 EST
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Alternator Question!

Folks,

Just a note about alternators and a smaller pulley.

I had replace my Motorola alternator with a newer Delco alternator of higher 
output.  At the same time I had fabricated a smaller pulley of 2 1/8" 
diameter and replaced the original pulley which is 2 5/8" diameter.  The 
smaller pulley is designed to help the alternator at the lowest RPM, 
especially during idle.  The original pulley will not charge very well at 
idle or with all the added on electrical components which are all turned on.  
With the small pulley, there is no adverse effect with the alternator on high 
speed highway driving.  The regulator will determine the alternator's output.

Living in NYC and having my DeLorean as a daily driven car, a smaller pulley 
is a must to resolve charging and to keeping up with the electric demand in 
the creeping slow moving traffic.  The battery can do so much.  BTW. I also 
have an Optima "Red" top battery for the last 4 years and this smaller pulley 
does add to the car's electrical operation. 

The alternators are design to operate at 10,000 RPM with a standard size 
pulley.  A pulley of 2 1/8 or 2/14 operating at 6,500 RPM on a DeLorean is 
within the alternator's limits.  Besides, no one operates the engine at 6,500 
RPM useless you are on the race track.  The reason why a small pulley is 
frown on, is because of the belt may not or will not wrap around the small 
diameter and the working circumference.  This is know as the belt's working 
angles.

I have driven my DeLorean 19 hours straight, from NYC to Phenix City, Alabama 
and another 19 hours back. I have gone on several trips from NYC to Detroit, 
Washington, Boston, Toronto with no problems.  I have this pulley on the 
alternator for the last two years with 20,000 plus miles and still going 
strong and my alternator hasn't exploded (yet!)-- and neither has my Bentleys 
(Lucas and Smith electrical), which has the same modified pulley and 
alternator combination for the last 28 years. 

Kayo Ong 
#5508
Lic. 9D  NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 15:14:59 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Seat Covers...

Hey List,

      I was just wondering does anyone know where to get good seat covers 
that fit the seats?  I am going to have the leather replaced on mine in the 
future, but until then I wanted to cover up the rips and tears in them.  
Thanks!

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 22:10:26
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Battery Cut Off Switch

They also make a battery cut-off switch w/fused 15 amp bypass. This is to 
allow your electronics like radios clocks and/or other peripherals to 
maintain their settings. (Although it wouldnt be horribly hard to create 
your own accessory by-pass.)

I last spotted the battery by-pass cuttoff switch in a harrington (not a 
product plug) catalouge.

Hope that helps,
dr c.




>Gary,
>I found one that is a big toggle switch. I had to go to an RV store to find
>it. Requires no mounting to the car. Mounts to the battery. Cost was about
>$20.00. Email me if you cant find one and I can give you the stores #. The
>hardest part of locating one was most cut off are for top post batteries.
>This was the only side post cut off I could find.
>Bruce Battles
>Vin #0656




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:20:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ss_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: door locks/zillas/solenoids

Hey Andy,
  I'd love to use the rigth stuff that won't ruin my cars. . . Care to let the rest of us in on this great find? What is it?

Shannon
Vin# Not Yet!

--------------------



Message: 22
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:26:40 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: door locks/zillas/solenoids

Hey all,

<snip>  

anyway i wound up going to a lock shop which had some really good liquid spray lubricant and i bought that.  

<snip>

Andy

<snip>

_____________________________________________________________
YourName_at_dml_delorean.com -- it's free from <a href="http://www.delorean.com"> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 19:12:21 EST
From: jcox4001_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Battery Cutoff switch

I use the Hella Battery Cutoff switch.  It is a key type, and it fits nicely 
in the battery compartment.  I bought mine from Quadratec, which is a Jeep 
Outfitter, for around $20.00.  I have had it for three years with no trouble. 
 You can even buy spare keys for around $3.00.  Quadratec's phone number is 
1.800.745.5337.

Jeff



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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 00:23:05 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Alternator Question!

When I went to replace my Alternator with the new Delco one, I went 
to a Rebuild shop and they matched the Delco to the Ducy one (what I 
had). They put a smaller pulley on mine to match the Idle RPM of the 
Delorean engine. They took the specs from a Motorola alternator spec 
sheet.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., kayoong_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Folks,
> 
> Just a note about alternators and a smaller pulley.
> 
> <SNIP>> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 19:49:31 EST
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Front section Frame repair

Hello List,
    The front cross-member cover on my car has a good amount of rust on it.  
I removed all of the chipping epoxy and cut a small portion off to see how 
extensive the rust was under the cross member cover.
    I was happy to see that the cover is the only piece that has rust on it.  
It is actually rusted through in one spot but there is no damage beyond the 
cover.  Can this cover be purchased from any DMC supplier?  or will one have 
to be cut out and made?  As long as I have my fuel tank out I would like to 
have this fixed now while it is safe.  I have found a shop that thinks they 
can do it.  I would take it to a DMC shop but this isnt that big of a 
deal(not structural) so I'm not going to spend the time doing that.  Please 
let me know what I should do.  Do you think a regular frame shop can do this?

Thank You
David
#2496



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:08:33 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Alternator Question!

John,

         I have a question regarding the alternators you're selling. What 
other car do they come from, how do they mount up to the De Lorean, and are 
they new or rebuilt? 

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:48:12 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Alternator Question!

Nick, Have you looked at my web site. These are new everything except the 
outer housing. They are made to fit the delorean, or another PRV6 engine if 
the engine uses the same mounting bracket. But the De Lorean especially 
because of the mounting bracket. They are bolt on replacement. Your car will 
love having the extra power. They are also guarenteed.100% replacement. No 
exchange needed. The old motorola's won't rebuild to more than 105 amps. 
John  



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