From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 412
Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 7:07 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. St Patricks Day Parade ( Dallas, Texas)
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: New poll for dmcnews
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

3. Re: looking to buy a "project" DeLorean
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net

4. Re: New poll for dmcnews
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

5. Frame / Chassis Rust
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

6. Re: Hose routing wisdom, please!
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: Intermittant lights
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: Zilla Says Howdy to All + Walt
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

9. parts cross-compatibility
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: DeLorean Car Show /John DeLorean
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>

11. Dr Who - grain of salt
From: "Drinkware" <marvin_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

12. Hose routing wisdom, thanks!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

13. Re: Hose routing wisdom, please!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Rusty metal fix
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

15. Re: Intermittant lights
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

16. Re: Zilla Says Howdy to All + Walt
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: parts cross-compatibility
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

18. 6298 For Sale!
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com>

19. New Delorean Owner here_at_dml_
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Probs with fuel pump & RPM relay
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com

21. Re: Rusty metal fix
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

22. Pinto parts?
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

23. Re: Pinto parts?
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

24. Re: New Delorean Owner here_at_dml_
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

25. Re: Probs with fuel pump & RPM relay
From: knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 05:30:29 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: St Patricks Day Parade ( Dallas, Texas)

Calling all cars, 
The De Lorean Owners of North Texas would like for you to show off 
your car in televised Dallas, Texas parade. Where are all of the De 
Lorean owners. Oklahoma, Louisiana, Arkansas, Texas. We need names 
now to reserve our front line status. The parade is March 11th 2pm. 
Contact
John Yerskey
Bill Winegard
214-522-8436
214-522-1868
or John Hervey
at 800-413-3300.
No cost, Entry fee paid.      




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 06:36:31 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: New poll for dmcnews

It's not just the DOA Eurofest, it is with the help and co-operation of the
DOC UK and is open to Any Delorean fan, whether owner,  club member, or not,
as the case may be. (4 people and 2 cars from my house alone!)  My best
guess is that 20 cars will be driving over from England to join up a similar
number from Ireland, plus all the people from much further away who are
making great efforts to be at this unique and historic (last chance) event.

Chris P Hon. Sec. DOC UK

----- Original Message -----
From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 12:06 AM
Subject: [DML] New poll for dmcnews


>
> Enter your vote today!  A new poll has been created for the
> dmcnews group:
>
> Who's attending the DOA Eurofest in
> Ireland? If so, please indicate your
> interest in a DML Face-to-face.
> Votes are being tallied but not be
> displayed. I'll contact everyone at the
> end, offline. ---Dave
>
>   o I'm going, and I'm interested in a DML-FTF
>   o I'm going, but I'll just see you-all around
>   o I'm not going but wanted to vote anyway
>   o See you in Houston
>
>
> To vote, please visit the following web page:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/polls
>
> Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
> not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
> web site listed above.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 06:38:48 -0000
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net
Subject: Re: looking to buy a "project" DeLorean

There was a resonable, clean, drivable mondel on e-bay that closed 
last night. It closed at $5300 and was located in Santa Barbara. It 
was a 5sp and 81 I think. 

I've been looking for a project car myself and this was a pretty good 
starting point except I'm hung up on getting an Auto. Maybe I need to 
rethink this one.

There is also one for sale here in Los Angeles that seems to be more 
of a mechanical fixer. I'm not sure if it's 5sp or auto. It's been 
for sale for about a month now. Needs work, started at $8k down to $6 
I think now. Problem is...it's painted WHITE. I'd strip it down to 
the stainless except I dont want that much mechinical, dont know 
trans, and that price is high considering the one that closed on e-
bay.

Guess your not the only one that will keep looking...


Jeremy



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Horseman of PA <the_horseman_pa_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thank you to all of you who answered my question, the
> fire damaged project is more then i think I can
> handel. I don't think I smart enough to do that one.
> and the other one for $6,000 is more then I have.
> thank you again to all of you who had either a
> sugesstion or a lead. seems I might just have to dream
> for now.
> 
> Wayne
personal.mail.yahoo.com/




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 06:53:43 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: New poll for dmcnews

Now I know I'm stupid........Just spent 15 mins trying to "sign up" for this
damnYahoo poll...don't expect to find my vote!

Chris P DOC UK

----- Original Message -----
From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 12:06 AM
Subject: [DML] New poll for dmcnews


>
> Enter your vote today!  A new poll has been created for the
> dmcnews group:
>
> Who's attending the DOA Eurofest in
> Ireland? If so, please indicate your
> interest in a DML Face-to-face.
> Votes are being tallied but not be
> displayed. I'll contact everyone at the
> end, offline. ---Dave
>
>   o I'm going, and I'm interested in a DML-FTF
>   o I'm going, but I'll just see you-all around
>   o I'm not going but wanted to vote anyway
>   o See you in Houston
>
>
> To vote, please visit the following web page:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/polls
>
> Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
> not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
> web site listed above.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:03:11 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Frame / Chassis Rust

I am full of admiration for you guys who tackle such work. I now realise quite how lucky I am with my cars...and what to keep a very close eye on!

Chris P DOC UK



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 04:58:05 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Hose routing wisdom, please!

Les,

You are right on target about the operation of the thermal vacuum valve.

While you are in there, make sure that the other half of the thermal vacuum
valve is sending a vacuum signal to the distributor advance after the engine
is warmed up.

When you hook the lines back up where they belong, I suggest making sure you
have vacuum where you should.  Since the system has been tampered with,
maybe the vacuum advance has been disconnected as well.  I have found that
vacuum lines that are left open can suck up enough debris to clog them.
Just connect a vacuum gauge and see what you get.  I think a healthy
DeLorean should draw 18mmHg at idle.

I think it is rather odd that the control pressure regulator has a redundant
mechanism for disabling fuel enrichment after warm-up.  I would like to know
which system shuts off enrichment first: Is it the thermal vacuum valve or
is it the control pressure regulator's internal heater?  It seems that the
Volvo engineers wanted to make real sure that the enrichment didn't last any
longer than absolutely necessary.

Les -- I have timed how long it takes my thermal vacuum valve to warm up
enough to switch.  From a totally cold engine in 80 degree weather, it took
about 2 minutes.  Since this part of the system was bypassed on your car, I
suppose that it is of little consequence since the control pressure
regulator's internal heater would eventually turn the enrichment off
possibly even before the thermal vacuum valve would get around to it.

Are there any experts out there who know the answer to this?

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 05:00:08 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Intermittant lights

I agree with Les that Radio Shack screws & nuts are not the best way to
repair a tail light board.  However, I haven't read of any complaints of
recurring problems on the DML.

The first week that I owned my DeLorean and before I knew anyone who knew
anything about these cars, I used some common sense and made my own tail
light fix.  I did the same thing that Les did except I added small pieces of
18 gauge bare copper wire through the rivet holes to give a solid connection
for the solder to reach from the rivet to the printed circuit board.
Otherwise I would be relying on the solder alone to provide a structural
connection between the sockets and the board.  From experience in
electronics repair, I have learned never to trust solder to make a reliable
'bridge' connection.  With proper cleaning and the use of flux, this might
be accomplished, but still it is better to use a small piece of wire if only
for insurance.

I still am not happy with relying on the OEM connectors.  Lead solder makes
for a terrible friction connection, and this is exactly what the OEM boards
use -- although I haven't heard of these giving anyone any problems.  The
best fix would be to use the new boards since they have gold plated
connectors instead of the OEM tin/lead solder.

By the way, are these new tail light boards a Zilla product?

I just replaced my backup lights with halogen 50 watt bulbs.  When I did, I
checked all the bulb sockets for new corrosion.  You know what?  I found
some.  So this time I put everything back together with a light coat of LPS
brand spray oil on the electrical connections.  My college friends in the
SCA really hate using WD-40 on their plate armor battle equipment.  They say
it works in the short term but eventually promotes rust.  They say that LPS
brand oil inhibits corrosion better over time.  This is supposedly what
museums use to preserve antique armor.

Just some well oiled opinions...
Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 05:08:41 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Zilla Says Howdy to All + Walt

Bob,

Sorry to take so long to respond to your e-mail.  I'm not ignoring you; I
just haven't had time to get online in several days.  I'll call you within
the next few days as you asked.

I'm glad you finally crawled out of the wood work.  Your products have made
you quite a celebrity, and I'm glad you and Rob Grady are contributing to
the DML (finally :-)

Rob called me a few days ago and we talked for quite a while about the
Tankzilla.  I feel so important now :-)  I rewarded him with placing an
order for more parts since I already had him on the phone.

Technical writing is a science in itself, and I suppose I wasn't too clear
about my posting regarding the problems I had with the Tankzilla.  I in no
way intended to bad mouth it.  And given a choice between buying a perfectly
working Tankzilla vs buying a defective one and fixing it, I prefer to deal
with a defective unit.  I'm nutty that way, but I just love a good technical
challenge.  Besides, the vendor I bought it from (DMC Joe) told me to just
goop it up with Form-A-Gasket.  He didn't offer to send me a replacement.  I
could have asked for a replacement, but that wouldn't have been as much fun
:-)  Besides, I'm suspicious that most of the senders in that batch were
leaky anyway.

The problem with the leak was not caused by the rubber seal.  The unit
leaked between the top metal disk and the centering ring which is spot
welded in place (this is the ring that Rob said had part of it machined away
to make it fit the DeLorean fuel tank.)  He suggested that evidently the
process of machining away part of the ring caused the gap between the metal
pieces where it leaked.  I think the gap was a natural variation due to the
original manufacturing process.  Anyway, according to Rob, the original
application used a seal with a shoulder on it.  But this seal wouldn't fit
the DeLorean fuel tank, so y'all made your own.  If the unit sealed
properly, then the gasket you made would probably work fine, but with fuel
leaking through the gap and continually washing over the gasket, it caused
it to harden.  Rob said that he is working on having new seals made that are
more tolerant to fuel exposure.  If the gasket was larger than the centering
ring and fit around it then it wouldn't matter if the gap was there.  The
gasket would cover it.  But since you made the gaskets fit under the ring
instead of around the ring, then the gap was exposed and leaked.  I imagine
that earlier units didn't have enough gap to be a problem or else the
gaskets that you made at that time were made of a more spongy material that
would fit both under and around the centering ring sealing any part that
could leak.

Well, I've probably gotten too technical again... and if you can make any
sense of what I said, then you are a good reader.  I had quite a time trying
to explain all this to Rob over the phone.  He even had to put me on hold
while he grabbed a Tankzilla out of inventory to see what I was talking
about.

I took pictures of it while I made my fixes, so I'll go on and get that
developed and send both you and Rob copies.

About your comment concerning an earlier post I made about the Lockzilla --
the comment that I should fix my door lock mechanism and then there would be
no need for over-engineering the Lockzilla.  Yes, you got me on that one.
I'm behind in too many projects already.  I have more projects started than
any normal person can finish in a lifetime.  It's a good thing I'm not
normal!  I have figured this out though:  In order to tell if both of my
doors locked successfully, I can press the remote button twice.  If the
locks click a second time then it means they are still synchronized and
presumably working properly -- unless both solenoids only just barely moved
the first time.  My car still has this problem intermittently!  So a feed
back over-engineered Lockzilla isn't such a bad idea in my opinion.  Until
then I just press the lock button twice and listen for the second click.
Besides, all door lock solenoids will eventually fail if given enough time.
So when that does happen again (maybe in a few years, maybe 20 more years,
maybe never) I want to know when it does happen so I don't accidentally
leave my car somewhere unattended with an unlocked door.

Let me know when you get the door launchers perfected.  I want a pair!
Also, I want the trunk opener too.  If it is going to be much longer before
you perfect the door launchers, can you go on and offer just the trunk
opener?  I could really use that.

Also about the door launchers, I'm worried that if the door is allowed to
just pop open, then new struts in hot weather may allow the door to bounce
open too hard and damage something.  Have you come up with a solution for
this?  Perhaps some sort of dampening spring somewhere?  Since the door
struts are custom made just for the DeLorean, perhaps y'all can start having
them made with dampening springs to soften the blow when they reach their
maximum extension.  If something isn't done about that, I just might start
making struts myself.  They would be nitrogen charged gas struts that could
be re-gassed just like a shock absorber.  There would be a schraeder valve
somewhere just for this purpose.

What do you think?  I've been itching to set up a lathe in my shop again.

Now discussions like this is what I think the DML should be about.  The
people who like to design and trouble-shoot should get everything out on the
table and try to make state-of-the-art products to keep these cars running.
I wouldn't be too worried about loosing trade secrets to any competition.
Everyone should realize that at most around 10,000 DeLoreans were made.  Of
these, how many people are going to buy your product?  It would certainly be
far less than 10,000 units.  To me, keeping these cars running is a hobby.
I understood all of what the Fanzilla was about.  I thought that it was a
lot of money for what I got.  But comparing it to a similar module for a new
car -- it really isn't that expensive in comparison.  My main complaint is
that I could build something similar for a lot less, but then to make it
work is another story.  I have bought all the Zilla products with the
exception of the new tail light boards.  I still might build some equivalent
modules from scratch just because I enjoy it.  But then my energies should
be turned to solving other problems instead of re-inventing the wheel --
like you said.  I also bought an early version of John Hervey's Fan Fix.  I
looked over both of them and decided I liked the Fanzilla better.  Although
they both have their strengths and weaknesses.

The Fan Fix if done by the gospel according to John, should have the fan
power routed away from the main power relay.  This together with a decent
sized alternator (that John also sells) will lessen the shock of having the
compressor and both fans switch on/off simultaneously.

The Fanzilla solves the shock problem by sequentially turning on the
compressor and each radiator fan separately and then switching them back off
again all separately.

Perhaps the best fix would be a combination of these two.  Re-route the fan
power around the main relay and stage the loads.  But for now, the Fanzilla
is in my car, and John Hervey's Fan Fix is sitting in a tangle of wires on
the back of my work bench.  Sorry John.  But again, this tangle of wire is
one of his early versions and not what he is selling now.

Also a plug for John is that I have one of his earlier 140 amp alternators
in my Delorean, and it works great!  The only problem is that the pulley
didn't allow the belts to line up right.  The pulley was 4mm off from where
it should have been for the DeLorean.  I ended up making a new adjustable
alternator bracket from scratch.  What a job that was!  But then I enjoy a
technical challenge.  If any of you have changed your alternator with any
replacement, take a close look at your belts and make sure they fit
perfectly.  A little bit crooked will cause the belts and even some bearings
to wear out quicker.

At a previous Delorean meeting in Orlando, I noticed a guy that had a
mechanic put is idler pulleys on wrong.  The belts were so crooked that I'm
surprised that they didn't fall off!

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 05:09:03 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: parts cross-compatibility

Has anyone come up with HID headlights for the D?  Does anyone know if the
1971 & 72 Ford Pinto steering racks fit the D?  What about the Pinto's front
lower control arms?  I hear they are very similar.  Could a Pinto lower
control arm be cut down to fit the D?  Has anyone sucessfully added power
steering?  I heard rummors, but no one is giving any technical details.

Food for thought,
Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:20:27 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show /John DeLorean

Ken,

That is really good news that John is getting involved again.


BOB Brandys






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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 10:15:59 -0500
From: "Drinkware" <marvin_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Dr Who - grain of salt

The comments concerning the valuable information in the archives is valid. However if all incoming comments concerning fixes, sources and problems are terminated because they have been duplicated over the years, we have arrived at the end of this list function! 

I, for one, enjoy reading the trials and tribulations of other DeLorean owners. For the most part, I have been there and learn to watch out for unexplored territory.  New suggestions come forth and in some cases new friendships are developed. The list is monitored in a business-like manner and serves an important part in one's DeLorean life cycle!!


Marvin Stein
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
PRINTED DRINKWARE COMPANY
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:23:27 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Hose routing wisdom, thanks!

Thanks Walter, my concern was that this was an accepted idea, something
to add a little "punch" to acceleration at any and all times.  I prefer
stock configurations unless there's a very strong argument for change.




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 10:36:10 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Hose routing wisdom, please!

Les,

If the control pressure regulator vacuum outlet port is connected directly
to the engine manifold thereby bypassing the thermal control valve you will
experience an over enriched fuel mixture condition after the engine reaches
operating temperature. This can cause an irregular idle, poor acceleration,
high fuel consumption, increased emissions or any combination of the above.

The DeLorean vacuum lines are not easily identified and are therefore
routinely incorrectly routed or disconnected by owners and or service
personal not familiar with the correct hose routing.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 1:24 PM
Subject: [DML] Hose routing wisdom, please!


> Finally found where my loose hose should go.  The control pressure
> regulator was originally connected to the thermal vacuum valve, through
> this hose, with the purpose of an enrichment shot of fuel, upon
> acceleration, at temperatures below 40 degrees, at least that's my read
> for now.  The pressure regulator is now connected directly into the
> vacuum port bypassing the thermal valve.  Was there a reason for this?
> Please give me a response.  Thanks.
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:38:01 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Rusty metal fix

Haven't seen Rusty Metal Rustoleum listed as yet, got to be about the
best product out there for stopping and controlling rust.  I've done
severely rusted gas tanks, floor pans, chassis and frame areas and lots
of bolt on items.  This product does not require complete removal of the
rust, just scrape or brush whatever you can get off and brush on a
liberal coating.  Also comes in a spray can for reaching places you
can't get at with a brush.  Done rechecks years down the road, never had
a recurrence of rusting where Rustoleum had been applied.  Should I find
any rust under this D (probably will) gonna do what works for me.




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:41:33 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Intermittant lights

I too have thought of adding halogen back-up lights but considering 
the heat generated by them has kept me from doing it. Please keep the 
list informed as to how the taillight lenses tolerate the extra heat. 
As far as the Radio Shack "nuts and bolts" fix I have done it and it 
seemed to correct the intermittant light problem. For good measure I 
also added a 3rd brake light on the rear louvre. On the Delorean it
is 
very easy to do, the brake light circuit is independent from the turn 
signals. Anything that you can do to make the car more obvious to the 
"SUV's" can only be a good thing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I agree with Les that Radio Shack screws & nuts are not the best
way 
to
> repair a tail light board.  However, I haven't read of any 
complaints of
instead of the OEM tin/lead solder.
> 
> By the way, are these new tail light boards a Zilla product?
> 
> I just replaced my backup lights with halogen 50 watt bulbs.  When
I 
did, I
> checked all the bulb sockets for new corrosion.  You know what?  I 
found





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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:04:40 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Zilla Says Howdy to All + Walt

Walt,

You said, concerning the cooling fan circuit:

"Perhaps the best fix would be a combination of these two.  Re-route the fan
power around the main relay and stage the loads"

The cooling fans do not receive power through either the accessory or run
relay they are powered directly from the battery, therefore there is no need
to change that part of the circuit.

You said:

"Since the door struts are custom made just for the DeLorean, perhaps y'all
can start having them made with dampening springs to soften the blow when
they reach their maximum extension".

The door struts sold by both DeLorean Services and PJ Grady are built with
an "end of travel dampening feature".

You said, concerning your recent alternator purchase:

"The pulley was 4mm off from where it should have been for the DeLorean.  I
ended up making a new adjustable alternator bracket from scratch".

This is why I strongly suggest that you purchase your replacement parts from
reputable DeLorean suppliers. We not only insure that the products we sell
will fit and work as expected we also field test these products to insure
that situations like you mentioned don't happen. As an example I did over
three years of testing with feed back from customers before I marketed my
Overheat Protector to the masses.

And finally you said:

"Besides, the vendor I bought it from (DMC Joe) told me to just goop it up
with Form-A-Gasket.  He didn't offer to send me a replacement.  I could have
asked for a replacement, but that wouldn't have been as much fun ..."

Just to be sure no one misunderstands your statement, DeLorean Services
stands behind all of the parts and products that it sells. Our vendors, PJ
Grady, Zilla Products, DMC Houston, and several independent suppliers will
gladly replace any defective product sold through us. Additionally all items
purchased from us include full time technical support for the life of the
product from YOURS TRULY!

One final comment to you Walt; it's a pleasure to have you on the list,
although some of your writings are a little long you always offer accurate
and valuable information to the list; keep up the good work.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>






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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:44:57 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: parts cross-compatibility

DMC Joe said that he was in the process of getting the lower control 
arms remanufactured by a machine shop so I believe they would be 
readily avail soon. Sounds like to much work to go through to cut 
down the Pinto's control arm and hope it aligns properly.

I think the pinto rack is to short unless someone made adapters for 
it to extend it.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Has anyone come up with HID headlights for the D?  Does anyone know 
if the
> 1971 & 72 Ford Pinto steering racks fit the D?  What about the 
Pinto's front
> lower control arms?  I hear they are very similar.  Could a Pinto 
lower
> control arm be cut down to fit the D?  Has anyone sucessfully added 
power
> steering?  I heard rummors, but no one is giving any technical 
details.
> 
> Food for thought,
> Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:54:23 -0500
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com>
Subject: 6298 For Sale!

Hello all.
VIN 06298 is for sale! For more info go to buy-n-sale section of the
www.dmcnews.com website. You can also email me at tomcio'AT'jamesik.com.
Pictures available by request. The price is $17500.
Serious only please.

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298
tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com



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Get your free _at_dml_yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:17:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New Delorean Owner here_at_dml_

Greetings all, just wanted to say hello, I've just
become lucky enough to become a Delorean owner :)

Wanted one my whole life, and as fate had it, found
one here in Abq, NM!

It's VIN 855 - I was told by DMC in Houston this was
the 250th one made, not even supposed to be
production! It was a proto type!  And it has less than
4,000 miles on it.. Pristine condition... I paid
$16,500 which I think was a steal for it...


I wanted to drop a note and say hi to what I consider
to be the finest automobile owners in existance.

I'm new to the Delorean, so I will probably have a lot
of questions that seem basic, but I think that's what
this mail group is for :).

Now, for my first question :)

With this Delorean having the low mileage that it
does, it's history is pretty brief, it's driven once a
month for a few miles to keep the engine lubed up...
because it was driven once a month, the previous owner
used to disconnect the battery between drives. 
Because of this, the gas/fuel gauge has "sprung" all
the way to the top, and no longer functions.  (Only
flaw with the car).

Is it easy to get it replaced, and are there any
reputable people who can do it in the Abq area?  I am
aware of the Houston folks, and if I have to, I will
transport it there for repairs, but I would prefer not
to have to go to that extreme...

It seems as though most mechanic shops around here
don't care about the car, maybe even are jealous, and
are exceptionally rough with it.  I want to make sure
when I leave it somewhere it doesnt become someone's
tool table for wrenches, and they don't put a bunch of
grease prints in the carpet.

Unfortunately, I do not know much about cars
mechanically, I am a computer programmer by trade, so
I cannot do it myself.

any advice appreciated, thanks!

Mike


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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:32:46 -0600
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com
Subject: Probs with fuel pump & RPM relay

This is very strange.  Here's the prob.  The engine is out of the car, but
I'm not getting power to my fuel pump when I turn the key to the 'run'
position. (when the pump should run for two to three seconds and then shut
off )  I know that my RPM relay is fine.   I tested it in another DeLorean
and it does work.  Here's the testing I've done so far.  I jumped the RPM
relay (the brown wire and the white/purple wire) and the pump starts
running.  I've checked the # 7 & # 1 fuse with a test light and they are
working fine.  At the RPM relay the brown wire is hot (fed from fuse # 7)
and the green wire is hot with the key in the run position like it should be
(fed from fuse # 1)   I've tested the ground wire at the RPM relay and it is
grounded.  Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated!!! :)


Thanks,






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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 23:30:44 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Rusty metal fix

I assume you haven't tried POR-15 paint then? This stuff is 100 times 
better than Rustoleum.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Haven't seen Rusty Metal Rustoleum listed as yet, got to be about 
the
> best product out there for stopping and controlling rust.  I've done
> severely rusted gas tanks, floor pans, chassis and frame areas and 
lots
> of bolt on items.  This product does not require complete removal 
of the
> rust, just scrape or brush whatever you can get off and brush on a
> liberal coating.  Also comes in a spray can for reaching places you
> can't get at with a brush.  Done rechecks years down the road, 
never had
> a recurrence of rusting where Rustoleum had been applied.  Should I 
find
> any rust under this D (probably will) gonna do what works for me.




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:59:46 EST
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Pinto parts?


DML,

The DeLorean has Ford Pinto Front lower control arms? 

Are they similar, i.e., look the same but different sizes and specs?

OR

Are they exact, i.e., part is totally interchangeable, exact match?

AND 

Why would installing a Pinto lower control arm or steering rack, on the 
DeLorean make it a better handling car?
Why not purchase original or restored lower control arm(s) or steering racks 
from the DeLorean suppliers? 
    
    Additionally, there were three US DeLorean prototypes built by Triad 
Industries in a suburb of Detroit.  I remember Bill Collins, the early chief 
engineer say, the only Pinto components were in the first & second prototypes 
built in late 1976 and early 1977. This first prototype was semi -- 
nonfunctional, just a parameter to build another functional DeLorean 
prototype for further engineering purposes, and attract investors like 
Allstate Insurance etc. (This is not the wooden styling mock up.)
    The prototype made famous on the cover of the July 1977 Road & Track, had 
the incomplete pinto steering rack from the first prototype.  The second 
prototype's front end was used again to make the third and last US made 
prototype. The second and third prototype was used in the promotional 
dealership film, circa 1977. In the film there is a picture of a group of 
suspension components, non of which made it to the actual production car. 
    When Lotus won the engineering contract in 1978, Colin Chapman founder of 
Lotus, had Team Lotus (racing dept.) and Lotus Cars LTD (production dept.) 
engineers' work together to develop a first class suspension and chassis for 
the Esprit S3 and DMC. (Chapman was quoted saying "this [chassis & 
suspension] is the best they have designed.")
     Lotus engineering the DMC backbone chassis and Esprit S3, front and rear 
suspension and VARI underbody, evolved the DMC & Esprit into a real 
production cars far from the US built prototypes and early S1 cars.

Michael



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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:18:19 -0600
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Pinto parts?

Ahh - something else I'm familiar with. Not ashamed to admit that I have
owned three Pintos in my life, I still have the service manuals so I had
looked into this the last time it went around here on the list.

To answer the question - Nope. They kind of look the same, but they are
really quite different. I suppose that's where the rumor of steering rack
compatibility comes from, too. The Pinto rack is German (if you recall
several models of the Pinto also used a German engine, Ford (used to?) do a
lot of engineering there). The Pinto had some subsystems based on the German
Capri, and if I recall correctly the DMC actually has some minor parts
interchangeability with some vintages of the Capri too. None of this is
useful, I daresay at this point in time most Capri and Pinto parts are
harder to come by than DeLorean parts. Nobody is really trying to keep them
on the road! Pinto racks are popular with the Kit-Car crowd though.

Take a close look - the Pinto lower control arms are located by strut rods
that go toward the back of the car. The DMC arms are located by the sway
bar. The only similiarity is the basic shape and the fact that they are both
stamped steel.

The steering racks look similar but mount in completely different manner.
The DMC has shackles and rubber bushings, the Pinto rack has two large
brackets cast into it that use large bolts to attach it to the frame.
Probably made by the same parts manufacturer.

Dave Swingle

----- Original Message -----
From: <senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 5:59 PM
Subject: Pinto parts?
DML,
The DeLorean has Ford Pinto Front lower control arms?

Are they similar, i.e., look the same but different sizes and specs?
OR
Are they exact,




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:35:00 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: New Delorean Owner here_at_dml_

Mike -

I'm not sure who spoke with at De Lorean Motor Company, but your car is
actually closer to the 350th made, and I would';t qualify it as a prototype,
though it quite possibly was a company owned car that was used for testing
and evaluation.

I'm sorry if someone from De Lorean Motor Company caused you any confusion.
I normally handle all these questions as I keep track of this data.

I am in the process of looking up the data on your car, and I will let you
know what I discover.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas 

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com


 
> It's VIN 855 - I was told by DMC in Houston this was
> the 250th one made, not even supposed to be
> production! It was a proto type!  And it has less than
> 4,000 miles on it.. Pristine condition... I paid
> $16,500 which I think was a steal for it...
> 
> 
> I wanted to drop a note and say hi to what I consider
> to be the finest automobile owners in existance.
> 
> I'm new to the Delorean, so I will probably have a lot
> of questions that seem basic, but I think that's what
> this mail group is for :).
> 
> Now, for my first question :)
> 
> With this Delorean having the low mileage that it
> does, it's history is pretty brief, it's driven once a
> month for a few miles to keep the engine lubed up...
> because it was driven once a month, the previous owner
> used to disconnect the battery between drives.
> Because of this, the gas/fuel gauge has "sprung" all
> the way to the top, and no longer functions.  (Only
> flaw with the car).
> 
> Is it easy to get it replaced, and are there any
> reputable people who can do it in the Abq area?  I am
> aware of the Houston folks, and if I have to, I will
> transport it there for repairs, but I would prefer not
> to have to go to that extreme...
> 
> It seems as though most mechanic shops around here
> don't care about the car, maybe even are jealous, and
> are exceptionally rough with it.  I want to make sure
> when I leave it somewhere it doesnt become someone's
> tool table for wrenches, and they don't put a bunch of
> grease prints in the carpet.
> 
> Unfortunately, I do not know much about cars
> mechanically, I am a computer programmer by trade, so
> I cannot do it myself.
> 
> any advice appreciated, thanks!
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> 
> 
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 00:47:02 -0000
From: knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com
Subject: Re: Probs with fuel pump & RPM relay

I think the problem stems from a little misunderstanding of the 
operation of the RPM relay.

The RPM relay receives an impulse from the coil (I suspect it's 
the same signal driving the tach) that essentially informs it that the 
engine is running. After the relay no longer sees any impulses, it 
will shut off after a couple seconds in order to avoid running when 
the engine is stopped. Although it is true that the relay will shut 
off after a couple seconds, I don't think it's supposed to turn on 
first unless presented with an impuse on its sense signal (first 
spark when cranking).

The RPM relay is actually pretty simple and it's based on a 
run-o-the-mill 555 timer circuit (you can still get 555 timers at 
Radio Shack even though they really only sell cell phones and 
remote-controlled cars nowadays).

        Knut



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., at88mph_at_dml_m... wrote:

> I'm not getting power to my fuel pump when I turn the key to the 
'run'
> position. (when the pump should run for two to three seconds and 
then shut
> off )  I know that my RPM relay is fine.   I tested it in another 
DeLorean
> and it does work. 




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