From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 422
Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:09 PM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Stainless Steel Illusion
From: graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com

2. Window Regulator Replacements
From: nbrommer_at_dml_krem.com

3. Found good gas cap replacement part
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

4. Re: wide black stripe.
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net

5. DeLorean Body Stripes
From: delorean_pilot_at_dml_yahoo.com

6. Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>

8. Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

9. Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic
From: raddad_at_dml_cmn.net

10. Re: co mix screw
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

11. battery drain/gauges
From: eurojet_at_dml_sdcoe.k12.ca.us

12. Re: temp gauge
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

13. Re: temp gauge
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

14. Re: co mix screw
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

15. Re: Floor Jack jacking instructions please!
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

16. Re: Floor Jack jacking instructions please!
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

17. Re: Leaking front windshield
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

18. Re: Leaking front windshield
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_netunlimited.net>

19. PRV-6 Variations (was: Re: Renault Engines? Alpine A310, cousin of the DeLorean)
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

20. Rob Grady's new shocks
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fisherdesign.com>

21. Re: Stephen Arrington connection
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Floor Jack jacking instructions please!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

23. Re: Leaking front windshield
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

24. Re: temp gauge
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

25. Re: battery drain/gauges
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 14:20:08 -0000
From: graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Stainless Steel Illusion

Anybody have a good condition, non-ex-library, copy they wish to 
sell? Looking to spend around $100 + S&H.

Thanks,
Tyler

#3472




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 02:01:26 -0000
From: nbrommer_at_dml_krem.com
Subject: Window Regulator Replacements

Hello gang,

If you're like me and need new window regulators, www.midstatedmc.com 
is a great place to find replacements at almost HALF the cost of what 
you would pay at the other vendors. Drop them an email ASAP through 
their website and let them know you are interested, this is a great 
deal I don't want anyone to miss out on!

Nick
3092




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 20:22:30 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Found good gas cap replacement part

I've been smelling gas off and on since I bought the car but couldn't find a leak anywhere.
So... after seeing the comments about Walt and other replacing gas caps I examined mine more closely.
The rubber was hard and brittle and had some cracks, so it looked prime for replacement.
I could not find a cap at first. I checked O'Reilly (Irish name ought to have parts for an Irish car, right? :) and Standard, but struck gold at WalMart. :)
Walt- I also got a Stant, but it is #11810; it's not fancy but it is a pressurized cap and fits snug and needs to jerry-rigging.

Should that be in the Xref file?

BTW- I am wondering if my cap was original for late '81 (and worth holding on to). It's just a simple black cap with the middle ridge to grasp and turn. No lock, nothing fancy.
Is that original?

Thanks,
Kevin
#4687


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 02:56:38 -0000
From: jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net
Subject: Re: wide black stripe.

Someone here had one for sale on ebay a few weeks back. I think the 
opening bid was around $400 opening bid. I don't think it sold. They 
are hard to find otherwise.


Jeremy



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Stephen Jones <smj_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I was curious if anyone knew were I could get a 
> black stripe.  If there are no NOS, maybe someone
> could recommend a source for the specs so a detailer
> could make one.
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> YourName_at_dml_d... -- it's free from <a href="http://www.delorean.com"> 
DeLorean Motor Company</a>!




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 03:30:35 -0000
From: delorean_pilot_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: DeLorean Body Stripes

Hello D Dreamers and Drivers
I saw a number of posts about narrow and wide OEM side stripes. I
have a couple of sets in my old inventory but hate to part with them
if they are the last ones on the Planet. So,,, I'm thinking about
producing a run of "exact" reproductions... Anyone with ideas about
how to do this or who would want to participate in this little
project, send me an email. Also, do you think they would look good in
RED, BLUE or ORANGE? I think it might be a fun way to say hello.

Fred Lockett
DeLorean Pilot




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:56:19 -0500
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic




Pluses: No freezing clutch cables, no slave cylinder problems

Minuses: Lower pickup speed, faulty computer governors.  That's about it.

Scott
#16738

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 21:49:30 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
Subject: Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic

Sean,

I replaced my 5 speed with an automatic on the same car.  I find the automatic
to be much easier to drive.  It also seems to perform better. Possibly because
the engine is kept more in the higher rpm torque range.  because of the torque
converter.

That's my 2 cents.

Bob


Sean Spurlock wrote:

> Group,
>
>       I sold my car, 81 with 5-speed and I loved it. What is the deal with
> the automatics. I have never known anyone that has owned one! I am thinking
> about buying another car, and cannot decide on trans. type. Can anyone give
> me some straight forward pluses and minuses? I would really appreciate it!
>
> Best Wishes,
>
> Sean Spurlock
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:55:17 EST
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic


    I had two DeLoreans, both were automatics. I had to replace the 
transmission computer once.  However, I drove it everyday, everywhere when I 
was an undergraduate student.  It never let me down. 
    It performed well in Washington, DC stop and go traffic, and just as well 
somewhere above 85mph. ;-).  It did well in the snow too. It had a DMC ski 
rack, and I took it frequently to Seven Springs Ski resort in PA. 
    
     I sold the car to a 17 year old young man named Eric Johnson of 
Annapolis Md. He still owns the car and drives it to attend college.

     The second automatic, an early 1981, I still own and drive with no 
problems.
 
     In addition, Automatics have a bad rap for some reason or another.  The 
DeLorean cars are great once they have ALL the updates performed.  As we all 
know, the bulk of the bugs found in the DeLorean or any other car, is a car 
sitting (neglected) for an extended period of time. However, there are 
exceptions.
     Automatics are equal to 5 speeds in, reliability, cost of repair, and/or 
replacement. Neglected 5-speeds have their share of problems just as a 
neglected Automatic would have.
    Additionally, I found a Renault telex to DMC Belfast, with the 
confirmation of DMC's order of equal amounts of 5 speed & automatics in 1981. 
(James Espey, I believe that you have a copy of this too.) 
     Based on what I have read on this list, Automatics equal to 5 speeds in, 
reliability, cost of repair, and/or replacement. 
    The only difference between them, is if you want to shift around or glide 
around.

Mike



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 21:16:26 -0700
From: raddad_at_dml_cmn.net
Subject: Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic

My first D had an automatic.  I bought it new and chose the automatic
because I lived in L.A. and knew that 90% of my driving would be of the
"boulevard cruiser" type.  It sufficed well in that environment.

When I moved to Colorado I quickly became disenchanted with the automatic.
Here were wonderful curvy mountain roads with not too much traffic that
just begged to be traversed at optimum (maximum) speed.  To me, that meant
via manually controlled shifting.  I traded my automatic and got a 5 speed.
For my type of driving (I do have twin turbos) and for my terrain, I think
the 5 speed is just the thing.  If I were back in the stop and go traffic
of L.A., I might well think differently.

Sean, the question you asked has no correct answer - one man's plus is
another man's minus.  It is really a matter of personal preference and you
must consider the type of driving conditions you expect to encounter.

Wish I could give you a more positive answer, but I think you'll have to
drive both and then decide.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:16:24 -0500
From: David Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: co mix screw

Hi David,
The set screw uses a hex allen wrench, 4mm I think. Plug the hole after making
adjustments. I've seen everything from a golf T to a wood screw to plug the
adjustment hole. One of the DeLorean clubs sells a nice little plug with a handle
on it for easy removal, unfortunately I don't remember which one, check the
archive's. There are directions for setting the CO on my web page at:
http://personal.picusnet.com/dsontos/tuneup.htm

Dave Sontos
VIN 02573

Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Hello,
>     I have been working on my project car for some time now and havent been
> able to figure out its odd idle and poor acceleration problems. The frequency
> valve is working properly so I thought the problem may be related to the
> intake system.
>     I thought it might be a good idea to check the co levels and adjust the
> screw as necessary.  I removed the intake(both halves) and found that the
> metal ball(plug) that covers the hole was missing(nice sized vacuum leak I
> guess).  It also looks like the screw is in as far as it can go.  I am
> guessing this could be my problem although I dont know for sure.  Where can I
> buy one of these plugs at?  also, what type of head is on the co mix screw?
> you cant really see it through that little hole.




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 04:22:04 -0000
From: eurojet_at_dml_sdcoe.k12.ca.us
Subject: battery drain/gauges

I am finding that when I don't drive my D and let it set for two 
weeks that I need to jump start it. I have an Interstate battery 
which is pretty new. My other cars don't have this problem. Also, 
when I shut off the key some of my guages don't settle all the way 
into their resting positions. Should they all go down or do some stay 
up like the fuel gauge and tach? Sometimes they'll go down all the 
way and then go back up. Could they be draining the battery in these 
positions? What's normal? How do I fix it? 
Fil Vigil
6232




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 04:43:46 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: temp gauge

Upon reviewing the wiring diagram and the manual if the voltmeter is 
working the most likely problem is either a broken or disconnected 
wire to the sending unit. It is located under the intake manifold on 
the water distribution pipe. See parts manual 2-3-0 and 1-3-0. It is 
hard to reach, the easiest way is to remove the intake manifold. It is 
also possible for the sending unit to be bad, to test just momenteraly 
ground the wire, you should see the gauge move.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 05:13:36 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: temp gauge

I just realized I sent you to the lambda temp switch. The sending unit 
for the temperature gauge is on the right hand cylinder head in the 
front of the motor, see 1-1-5 in the parts manual. Sorry for the 
misinformation. You should be able to reach it easily. Check first to 
see if the wire is even connected. When working in that area it is 
easy to knock off connections without realizing it. It is supposed to 
be a green/blue wire and it is probably just dangling in there.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 05:05:21 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: co mix screw

It is an metric allen screw but before you go turning it put some tape 
or a plastic plug in the opening and see how it works. To properly 
adjust the mixture screw you need an exhaust analyzer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello,
>     I have been working on my project car for some time now and 
havent been 
> able to figure out its odd idle and poor acceleration problems. The 
frequency 
> valve is working properly so I thought the problem may be related to 
the 
> intake system.
>     I thought it might be a good idea to check the co levels and 
adjust the 
> screw as necessary.  I removed the intake(both halves) and found 
that the 
> metal ball(plug) that covers the hole was missing(nice sized vacuum 
leak I 
> guess).  It also looks like the screw is in as far as it can go.  I 
am 
> guessing this could be my problem although I dont know for sure.  
Where can I 
> buy one of these plugs at?  also, what type of head is on the co mix 
screw?  
> you cant really see it through that little hole.
> 
> Thanks
> David




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 04:45:12 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Floor Jack jacking instructions please!

Put about 2 feet of 2x4 lumber on the jack and lift under the frame 
just under the engine, between the lower suspension control arms. You 
may have to drive the car up on some 1x12 lumber to raise it enough, 
it depends on if the car is lowered and how low your jack goes.

At the front, get a 2x4 long enought to touch both of the tie-down 
hooks and do the same thing. The 2/4 will  bend slightly and spread 
the weight clear across the front end.

DO NOT just put a bare floor jack under the frame, you will dent the 
frame and crack the epoxy.

Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Where, other than the scissors jack point can you use a floor jack, 
it
> seemed to show a crack at that point when I used a floor jack.
> 
> Thanks, Les 10059




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 04:51:59 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Floor Jack jacking instructions please!

If you have a good floor jack use a 1 foot piece of 2x4 and in the 
front lift at the member in the center just behind the crumple tubes 
and the use jackstands under the lower control arms. In the back use 
the 2x4 under the crossmember under the motor and place jackstands 
under the carriers for the rear wheels. Lift the front first. The 
crack you see might only be the epoxy paint and not metal. Lift the 
car with the doors closed, if you have a low ceiling in the garage 
they might hit it! Only lift on a good, flat, level concrete floor and 
make very sure of the placement of the jackstands as you lower.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Where, other than the scissors jack point can you use a floor jack, 
it
> seemed to show a crack at that point when I used a floor jack.
> 
> Thanks, Les 10059




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 04:58:59 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Leaking front windshield

This is an area for a glass shop. You can try resealing but to really 
do it right you must remove the winscreen, remove all of the old 
sealer and reinstall with new sealer. Because of the high risk of 
breaking the glass when removing and the possibility that you don't 
know how to seal properly it is best to go to a glass shop. It 
shouldn't cost too much, just 1 hour of labor and the sealer. Some of 
these shops even come to you! (It's also a very messy job)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  Also check the bottom of the rear glass they come loose and 
it can get very noisy from the motor.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., mwalker_at_dml_d... wrote:
> I have a question since I haven't seen this come up before, nor have 
> I found it in the archives. (doesn't mean it isn't there, I just 
> couldnt' find it.) 
> 
> My front windshield leaks when it rains.  If I push lightly on the 
> glass I can feel the give.  Does anyone have any ideas on how to re-
> seal the windshield? 
> 
> BTW I know it is not the doors I have checked and double checked and 
> finally realized where the water was coming in from.
> 
> Matthew L. Walker
> VIN 1219




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 00:22:13 -0500
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_netunlimited.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking front windshield

Matthew,

I have had the same problem twice.  The best way to reseal the windshield is
to take it to a windshield replacement center and have them remove the
windshield and reseal it back in the car.  That way you are pretty much
assured of a good seal all around.  Be prepared,  the place where I have
taken mine said that they would not guarantee the windshield if it broke
while they were trying to remove it.  Of course, mine came out fine-just
wanted to prewarn you.

Bill Lane
vin 3635

mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org wrote:

> I have a question since I haven't seen this come up before, nor have
> I found it in the archives. (doesn't mean it isn't there, I just
> couldnt' find it.)
>
> My front windshield leaks when it rains.  If I push lightly on the
> glass I can feel the give.  Does anyone have any ideas on how to re-
> seal the windshield?
>
> BTW I know it is not the doors I have checked and double checked and
> finally realized where the water was coming in from.
>
> Matthew L. Walker
> VIN 1219
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:12:08 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: PRV-6 Variations (was: Re: Renault Engines? Alpine A310, cousin of the DeLorean)

As it turns out, I may have already answered my own question.

An unusual aspect of the PRV-6 in the K-Jetronic configuration I 
didn't notice before is that the fuel injectors are mounted in the 
cylinder heads rather then the intake manifold like other vehicles. 
The PRV seems universal however in the fact that all of it's parts 
are molded the same, and are then customized to fit their individual 
applications. I've only been able to find one remotely detailed 
picture of the 2.7 liter Alpine engine. From what I'm able to tell, 
the motor does have the indentations for where the fuel injectors go, 
but they are not drilled out. Simular to the way the manifold on the 
DeLorean has places on it where it can be drilled to add the 
nessisary plumbing that is used in the Volvo 260 with the engine in 
it's B27F dress.

Without knowing a bit more about the Alpine setup, it's a little hard 
to know what other differances there may be. Even so, any 
modifications would probably be costly money wise.


On a side note, if any modifications, or possible engine swaps for 
the DeLorean B28F engine are considered, a better canidate may be the 
3 litre engines from the Dodge Monaco and the Eagle Premiere. From a 
few scattered photos I've found across the internet, minus the fins, 
the motor uses the exact same oil pan as the D. The rocker covers are 
different from the B28F. Most noticeable is the breather cap for the 
oil has now been moved to the right side of the block. Although in 
it's place on the left side of the block still is a removeable cap to 
add oil. The stock air box could not be used. A snorkle type fitting 
could be attached to the intake, and an inline high flow air filter 
could be installed to "bathe" the filter.

The only other problem I see is with the A/C compressor. The existing 
bracket looks as though it could accept the Sankyo compressor. Better 
still would be if the pullys between the two could be exchanged. That 
way the 3 litre engine could keep it's existing serpentine belt 
system.

It would be interesting to see the results of a 3 litre PRV-6 coupled 
with K-Jetronic fuel injection, and the free-flow exhaust system...


-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Robert,
> 
> As reported earlier there are differences in the DeLorean PRV-6 
that set it
> apart from the rest of this fine family of engines. Much of the 
claimed 200
> hp in the Alpine is due to the absence of pollution controls and 
devices
> which are fitted to the DeLorean version of this engine.
> 
> "We're here to help you"
> 
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_a...>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:48:13 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fisherdesign.com>
Subject: Rob Grady's new shocks

Dear List,
    My father's DeLorean has been in the shop getting a "tune-up" for
some 4 months now.  We finally got it back the other day and I got a
chance to check out Rob Grady's new shocks which I had purchased a while
back.  One word...AWESOME!!
    If anyone still has nose high problems, or even if you suspect your
shocks just need to be replaced, GET THESE!  They are adjustable, and
look almost exactly like the originals.  The only difference (that I can
tell) is that there is a little pneumatic valve at the base of each
shock, to raise or lower the pressure in them.
    I had Mr. Grady set my shocks to "average" which he said would give
me a nice combination of excellent handling and superior ride comfort.
He was right...My 1997 Acura is now bumpier than Dad's DeLorean.  I will
go have these same shocks put on my DeLorean as soon as I can afford
them!  They are GREAT. (in case I hadn't made that clear yet)
    Another excellent product produced by people who not only care about
the car, but also about the people driving them...what more could you
ask for?
        Thanks Rob et al,
        Josh
        VIN 5102
        VIN 15964 (SHOCKingly wonderful!)




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 14:48:37 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stephen Arrington connection

I thought it says in John DeLoreans autobiography that the Cocaine 
used in room 501 was seized 2 years previously, and just borrowed 
from the cops for the sting?? 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "De Miller" <demillerkansas_at_dml_h...> wrote:
Arrington ..... is barely a footnote in DeLorean"s trial. He was 
> the airplane pilot who actually flew the cocaine into the US. The 
cocaine 
> was needed to proceed with the DeLorean trial. 




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 11:17:00 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Floor Jack jacking instructions please!

Les,

In addition to the four jack points the DeLorean can also be lifted by
placing the saddle of the floor jack mid way between the left and right
wheels under the main frame crossmember at the rear and front of the car.
This system is very efficient because it allows you to lift both wheels off
the ground simultaneously.

Be aware that incorrect placement of the jack at the front of the car can
cause permanent damage to the front frame extension. To prevent surface
damage to the frame and the epoxy coating lay a protective barrier (wood)
between the jack saddle and frame.

CAUTION: Be sure to use all safety procedures associated with motor vehicle
jacking.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: [DML] Floor Jack jacking instructions please!


> Where, other than the scissors jack point can you use a floor jack, it
> seemed to show a crack at that point when I used a floor jack.
>
> Thanks, Les 10059
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 11:30:18 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking front windshield

Permatex Auto Glass Sealer available from NAPA #765-1259.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <mwalker_at_dml_dragon-reach.org>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 5:14 PM
Subject: [DML] Leaking front windshield


> I have a question since I haven't seen this come up before, nor have 
> I found it in the archives. (doesn't mean it isn't there, I just 
> couldnt' find it.) 
> 
> My front windshield leaks when it rains.  If I push lightly on the 
> glass I can feel the give.  Does anyone have any ideas on how to re-
> seal the windshield? 
> 
> BTW I know it is not the doors I have checked and double checked and 
> finally realized where the water was coming in from.
> 
> Matthew L. Walker
> VIN 1219





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 10:59:55 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: temp gauge

Andy,

Most of the gauges used in the DeLorean are the type where as the needle
will remain in a position of last reading. Most temperature gauge problems
are a result of a bad sensor or broken leed wire.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp_at_dml_att.net>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 10:47 PM
Subject: [DML] temp gauge


> Hey all,
>
> many thanks for all of the answers to my questions so far.  here's a new
one
> for you:
>
> my temp gauge is stuck.  yes.  it is stuck at 140, i think.  ever since i
> bought the car, the temp gauge has been in this position, and that's a
little
> scary.  when you turn the key it doesn't move, and after you've been
driving
> for a while it doesn't move.  a previous owner told me that the gauge was
a
> little sketchy for him also but his mechanic found some exposed wires and
it
> magically worked again.  but it has never worked for me.
>
> does this make any sense?  i would think that exposed wires would cause
the
> needle to just rest at 0 instead of staying at a position higher up.  if
this
> has happened to anyone else, let me know what you did to fix it!
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:12:31 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: battery drain/gauges

Just had the same problem, had my car less than a month.  You need to pull
the nearest battery cable and put a meter in series to monitor current drain
with everything off.  Mine was doing it because the door lights were staying
on when closed.  I pulled the number 12 fuse (courtesy lights) and the drain
stopped until I could figure out the why.  The why turned out to be an after
market alarm system that was grounding my lights outside of the switch.  Your
problem is probably different but the procedure would be the same, check for
current drain with everything off...you can pull the number 12 fuse and leave
all of your doors etc. open while you check to see what's wrong.

Very unlikely that gages would be involved.

Les

eurojet_at_dml_sdcoe.k12.ca.us wrote:

> I am finding that when I don't drive my D and let it set for two
> weeks that I need to jump start it. I have an Interstate battery
> which is pretty new. My other cars don't have this problem. Also,
> when I shut off the key some of my guages don't settle all the way
> into their resting positions. Should they all go down or do some stay
> up like the fuel gauge and tach? Sometimes they'll go down all the
> way and then go back up. Could they be draining the battery in these
> positions? What's normal? How do I fix it?
> Fil Vigil
> 6232
>
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>
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