From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 424
Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 9:08 AM

Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DMC Accessories
From: Julie B Johnson <>

2. Re: Stainless Steel Illusion

3. Re: Hood question

4. Re: Hood question
From: "Scott Mueller" <>

5. Re: Re: temp gauge
From: "DMC Joe" <>

6. RE: John DeLorean letter
From: "Brian McCool" <>

7. Re: battery drain/gauges

8. Re: DeLorean Body Stripes
From: Horseman of PA <>

9. Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic with turbo!

10. Re: DeLorean Body Stripes

11. Re: battery drain/gauges
From: Jan van de Wouw <>

12. New DMC exterior door handles
From: "Mark Hershey" <>

13. Re: Found good gas cap replacement part -- NOT
From: "Kevin Creason" <>

14. More new owner questions.
From: Les Huckins <>

15. Original miles?

16. 1/2 Price Window Regulators!
From: "Vin#5462" <>

17. Re: Hood question

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 19:23:06 -0800
From: Julie B Johnson <>
Subject: DMC Accessories

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Please check the commercial posting policy for the DML.
Unsolicited commercial postings should tempered with an informational
context, and not turn the list into the sale of the week bulletin board.
Also, please note that there is a For Sale section on the DMCNews web site.]

New Products for DeLorean Enthusiasts
DMC Key Fob
A fine quality leather key fob of elegant design and innovative function.
The unique key clasp mechanism makes it easy to add or remove keys. The
Key Fob is crafted of top grain leather with solid brass, chrome plated
accents. This Key Fob will deliver a life time of satisfaction. $13.95 

DMC LogoCaps
Dress up your wheels! LogoCaps are a perfect way to add that finishing
touch to your DeLorean. Available in Anodized Aluminum. They are highly
detailed with permanent logos that are fade proof and water proof. The
logos are protected by a clear coating. Each cap is made in the USA of
the finest materials and to exacting standards of quality. $14.95 

you can order any of the above plus tons of other Neat Delorean products
from or you can phone in you orders to (805)

CA Residents please ad 7% sales tax to all orders

The DeLorean Store Staff
DOA DeLorean Store
835 Church St, Ventura, CA 93001-2014
(805) 643- 3161

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 05:09:58 -0000
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Illusion

Average price for a fair one is $130 to $150. One just closed on E-
bay that was in less condition for over $150. I've been golding off 
for some time but have been watching this one bookseller for a few 
weeks. Book was misss priced online and I purchased it for near but 
under what your stating. Only problem is it's missing the dust 
jacket. I don't think thats worth the $100 difference I saved.

I'll wait til it gets here tomorrow to quote anything else.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., graves_14_at_dml_h... wrote:
> Anybody have a good condition, non-ex-library, copy they wish to 
> sell? Looking to spend around $100 + S&H.
> Thanks,
> Tyler
> #3472


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 05:25:27 -0000
Subject: Re: Hood question

The thickness of the panels is either 16 or 18 gauge. That doen't 
matter. The best way for you to repair little round holes is to tap 
the holes to the closest size for a machine screw to be installed, 
stainless steel of course (and the correct alloy) and then cut it 
flush and TIG weld. Leave a small bump above the surface to grind 
flush and then regrain the entire hood. Use as lot of wet rags to 
contain the heat (don't use heat dam putty, it lets the welded area 
get hot and won't carry away the heat like the wet rags). The welder 
should use a variable frequency welder with inert gas like C-25 or 
Argon. Look for a restaurant supplier or a hollow metal shop that does 
stainless work. Most large cities have people that do commercial 
kitchen work like sinks and counters and most of that is assembled and 
welded in the field.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., srubano_at_dml_o... wrote:
> Does anyone know the guage or thickness of the Stainless steel for 
> the Hood (luggage compartment)? I am going to attempt to find a GOOD 
> Stainless Steel welder to weld up some of the tiny holes that were 
> drilled into it by a previous owner (they installed a hood scoop). I 
> know that some people on the list recommended me to find someone who 
> was expiereinced with SS and that they used a TIG welder. I really 
> want to save this hood since it is excelent condition (no dents) and 
> it's a hood flap one!
> Thanks,
> Steve


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 06:58:21 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <>
Subject: Re: Hood question

I do not have a micrometer handy, but you can measure the thickness on the
edge of the gas flap, or anywhere else that the skin is folded over.

Scott Mueller
----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:31 PM
Subject: [DML] Hood question

> Does anyone know the guage or thickness of the Stainless steel for
> the Hood (luggage compartment)?


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:13:36 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Re: temp gauge


Be aware that grounding the temperature gauge sensor wire will burn out the
gauge movement.

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <>
Web Site: <>

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 11:43 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: temp gauge

> Upon reviewing the wiring diagram and the manual if the voltmeter is
> working the most likely problem is either a broken or disconnected
> wire to the sending unit. It is located under the intake manifold on
> the water distribution pipe. See parts manual 2-3-0 and 1-3-0. It is
> hard to reach, the easiest way is to remove the intake manifold. It is
> also possible for the sending unit to be bad, to test just momenteraly
> ground the wire, you should see the gauge move.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 23:30:12 -0600
From: "Brian McCool" <>
Subject: RE: John DeLorean letter

Some comments about the letter from John Delorean on Ken's Delorean Car Show
      I think some people may not understand what its purpose actually is.
When John
was filing for Ch.7 Bankruptcy protection in August of 2000, Mayer
Morganroth tried to block
his motion in court, apparently because he still claimed John owed him
millions of dollars in
legal fees that he hadn't been paid over the years for defending John in
court. I knew the name Morganroth
sounded familiar, so I dug through my records and found an article from
November 2, 1995 concerning
Morganroth and John's disagreement over the legal fees owed. The article is
very biased against
John(as most articles in the press seem to be). Morganroth is quoted saying
"We have no doubt
we'll eventually get our money, he's tried a lot of tricks but we'll
succeed." At the time, a jury had awarded
Morganroth 10.3 million dollars, and John was appealing this decision.
After reading John's letter, it is very plain to see that John was in the
right, and he even includes evidence to back
up his claims about Morganroth. Its sad that John's only escape from this
persecution is bankruptcy.


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 05:35:17 -0000
Subject: Re: battery drain/gauges

You are absolutly correct, you cannot attain zero drain in the 
Delorean without a Master switch. What you want to achieve is 10-20 
MA. With all of the diodes and the clock this is about what you can 
get which if you have a good battery should start the car even if it 
sits for 4-5 weeks in moderate temperatures. If you pulled all of the 
fuses and still can't find the leak (current drain) you might look at 
the diodes in the alternator, you might have a shorted diode causing 
your problem. Disconnect the alternator and see if your leak goes 
away. A couple of amps drain is certainly not normal for any car at 
rest! Installing a master switch in this case is just putting a 
band-aid over the problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., rbrogren_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Fil Vigil,
> Some of the gauges on the D are a bit unusual  in that they don't go 
to Zero 
> with the ignition off. This is normal and I'll let some of the 
> respond to that issue.
> I had (have?) the same problem with my car; a few days in the garage 
and the 
> battery was way down. I received several suggestions from the list, 
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:51:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Horseman of PA <>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Body Stripes

I saw a DeLorean  that had a stainless steel plate
that was mounted on the side of the car it was painted
or dyed or something smoke grey but you could make out
the fact that it was indeed stainless steel with a
grain and was contoured to the panels. probally more
work then it's worth but thought I'd throw that in
--- Bob Brandys <> wrote:
> I have seen both styles of striping on the delorean.
>  The bottom wide black
> stripe was designed for follow the black bumper
> line. This is a typical
> decor design that was first shown on the cover of
> Popular Science in 1954
> and exemplified on the 92 full size Buick.
> However , I found this dark semi gloss finish to
> visually distracting to the
> stainless lines of the side of the car.
> On the other hand, the upper fender light gray
> striping was truly and accent
> to the lines of the car. The only problem was these
> was that they were only
> visible close up. (10 ft.)  They look nice but are
> understated.
> Accent striping needs to accent and be easily
> visible on the car finish.
> This is where the challenge comes on the Delorean. 
> First, the Delorean
> stainless is not a gloss finish.  This is a possible
> advantage to make gloss
> finished striping more visible.
> On the other hand, the unique brushed stainless
> speaks to an underlying
> grain in body panels. A solid color might clash with
> the grain lines of the
> stainless.
> What would be interesting would be striping that has
> a grain finish in it.
> This is an available screen printing image. 
> Further, this grain can be
> finished with a transparent color.  A nice example,
> would be a smoke
> finished transparent over a grain running parallel
> to the car.  This would
> look like a transparent smoke strip on the stainless
> body!!!
> Or it might even be possible to make a transparent
> dark smoke strip that
> would still show the grain.
> As for colors, this is a very difficult choice for a
> D since it is black and
> silver grained. Complementary colors do not exists
> on a black and white
> color wheel.
> What this means is that color striping would have to
> be subtle.  Again a
> transparent strip still showing the grain could
> work.  I have tried some of
> the transparent color similar to overhead
> transparencies.  The results were
> very interesting.
> This lead to experimenting with the tri color
> sequences similar to 3 M type
> striping.  A red, white and green stripe would speak
> to the British nature
> of the car.  Read white and blue, well,,... you
> know.
> Black parallel stripe was also interesting.
> Lastly, a chrome version of the original upper
> fender strip  would
> definitely accent the car.
> Bob Brandys
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:20:41 -0000
Subject: Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic with turbo!

I have an automatic and have been considering adding a turbo, is it a 
bad idea to add a turbo on an automatic DeLorean? obviously the turbo 
adds more strain to all of the engine components and the last thing I 
would want to do is hurt my babe! and will any experienced turbo 
company be able to install a turbo on the DeLoreans engine, is there 
a specific make I should look at?

Any advise appreciated.



> via manually controlled shifting.  I traded my automatic and got a 
5 speed.
> For my type of driving (I do have twin turbos) and for my terrain, 
I think
> the 5 speed is just the thing.  If I were back in the stop and go 

> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:47:54 EST
Subject: Re: DeLorean Body Stripes

In a message dated 2/21/01 10:33:42 AM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

<< do you think they would look good in  RED, BLUE or ORANGE? >>

Before anyone gasps at the idea of non-black DeLorean stripes... a graphic 
design portfolio from ItalDesign recently sold on e-bay for a pretty good 
piece of change.  It featured several alternate side graphics, some fairly, 
uh, well, more eye catching. and none were black.  I guess they were 
discarded as too youthful looking for the intended target audience.

vin 11174


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 23:28:53 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <>
Subject: Re: battery drain/gauges

> Some of the gauges on the D are a bit unusual  in that they don't go to Zero 
> with the ignition off.

To go even further: the tachometer doesn't even stay where it is!
On mine it jumps up (I've read this before) to about 2500RPM untill
I put on the contact again...

> Coincidentally I had ordered a "battery saver" switch from DMC Joe (this 
> switch is used to cut out the interior lights when the doors are left open),

I liked this feature too, so I built something similar myself.
Unfortunately this turns out to cause a small problem on my car;

I can use the switch to disengage circuit #12 when I'm working on the car,
but when I leave them off in my garage this causes my alarm to go off!
(the diagnosis-mode of the alarm pointed out the engine-compartment 
and doors as trip every time...)

Went over this with may Alarm-guy and it turned out to be the lack of
"pull up" voltage on the plungers that causes this: without the power on,
the sensors of the system mistake the open contact for a grounded one
and thus trip the alarm...
I just leave the circuit on when stored/parked now and all seems fine now.

> It is my impression based on what I have read here that it is impossible, or 
> at least impractical, to attain zero leakage in the electrical circuits of a 
> D. Except by using a battery cut-off switch!

Even with a cut-off you'll get drain from "self discharge" of the battery...
I planned to get a cut-off when I got my "Dagger", but since my car turns out 
to survive 5 weeks without a problem AND I plan on driving at least every 
2 weeks, I'll just leave it like it is.

Good luck on tracing your leak!

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 17:25:16 -0600
From: "Mark Hershey" <>
Subject: New DMC exterior door handles

Just received my two new exterior door handles These are the ones James
Espey mentioned as new design and production from DMC Houston. All I can say
is...WOW!! Outstanding fit and finish, and these things will last forever.
Really outstanding quality.Never saw any of the metal units from other
vendors so I can't compare, but these are absolutely flawless.

Get so excited over door handles, you say? Wait till you see these....

\\ Mark


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 18:10:37 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <>
Subject: Re: Found good gas cap replacement part -- NOT

Yup- it does vent. Aarg! Choke....
So, I've ordered one from Houston, $9.95 plus tax and shipping.
I only got a generic one because I was under the impression (from Joe, I
think) that they were not available.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter" <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Found good gas cap replacement part -- NOT

> Kevin,
> I don't like the Stant #11810 because it has a venting pressure relief
> spring-loaded diaphragm.  Both the locking and non-locking OEM caps do not
> vent at all.  I bought the same Stant #11810.  Without taking it out of
> package, I pressure tested the diaphragm using air.  I found that it
> at pressures well below 1 lbs psi.  The pressure was so low that I quickly
> ruled it out as an acceptable cross-reference considering that the OEM
> (particularly the non-locking variety) can hold several lbs psi.

[excess quoted material trimmed]


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:51:48 -0800
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: More new owner questions.

Shifting and steering are very stiff, is this normal.

Fuse #4 is missing, turn indicators and stop light switch (which work
just fine), was there an upgrade or just another wild fixer.

Thanks again, Les


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:06:02 EST
Subject: Original miles?

When I bought my D about 4 months ago, I was told the car has
129k miles on it.  But to me, it seems to have some of the typical
DeLorean problems (i.e. hot start, auto trans gov. problem, etc.)
that makes me slightly suspect that if this car really had that
many miles, than some of these problems would have already
been taken care of.  Am I wrong in assuming this?  (Or do these
problems consistently sneak up in DeLoreans?)

The interior needs alot of work, which makes me suspect that
the car has seen alot of usage, so it could conceivably have that
many miles.  But is there any way to know my milage for sure?
How can I tell if the odometer has turned?

Thank you for any help,



Message: 16
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:36:06 -0000
From: "Vin#5462" <>
Subject: 1/2 Price Window Regulators!

Blimey, these really are half the price, the left hand and right hand window
regulator from the online site are $360 each and _at_dml_
they are $390 for the pair!! including shipping! has anyone brought them
from this place, they look pretty good from the picture and very well
priced. mine are in need of replacement and I wondered if these are any

Any views on these?

Thanks in advance


P.S. I have never seen a picture of updated regulators so I don't know if
these are exactly the same?


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:47:53 EST
Subject: Re: Hood question

In a message dated 2/21/01 9:36:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

<< anyone know the guage or thickness of the Stainless steel for 
 the Hood (luggage compartment)? I am going to attempt to find a GOOD 
 Stainless Steel welder  >>

A good welder can look at the folded edge of the metal and tell you the 
thickness, just as a good carpenter can look at a piece of plywood and tell 
you the thickness.



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to