From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 433
Date: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 6:19 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Where to finance a car
From: "Matthew David" <DMC5524_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: RE: 3.0 Eagle motors
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Noisy fuel pump
From: Mike Hirko <mikehirko_at_dml_tdn.com>

4. Re: Noisy fuel pump
From: "M1" <PWPilot_at_dml_jcn.com>

5. Re: Noisy fuel pump
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: 3.0 Eagle Motor
From: Farrar Hudkins <smeghead79_at_dml_home.com>

7. Re: Re: 3.0 Eagle motors (and trannies)
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com>

8. High idle probs...
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Re: 3.0 Eagle motors (and trannies)
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>

10. RE: be grateful for your blessing
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel_at_dml_minalco.com>

11. Re: Noisy fuel pump
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. Re: Noisy fuel pump
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>

13. Noisy fuel pump & using wrong parts
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

14. Re: Re: 3.0 Eagle Motor
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

15. Re: High idle probs...
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

16. Re: Noisy fuel pump
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

17. Re: RE: 3.0 Eagle motors
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com

18. Email Address
From: Shain <shain_at_dml_noln.com>

19. Re: Re: Noisy fuel pump
From: steven.rogers_at_dml_us.cgeyc.com

20. FYI Craig radio on eBay
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

21. Looking for Delorean in the Northwest
From: meester_at_dml_sprynet.com

22. auto trans
From: essayons07_at_dml_juno.com

23. Eamil Address
From: Shain <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>

24. Engine Swap Thread
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

25. Re: Temporary Import of DMC to USA
From: qrorell_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 04:35:52 -0000
From: "Matthew David" <DMC5524_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Where to finance a car

>From: "dmc" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Where to finance a car
>Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 21:01:18 -0500
>
>I was looking for places to finance buying my Delorean.  I have found only 
>a
>place called JJ Best that specializes in Classic Auto Loans.  They offer 5
>year loans, with 20% down, and 10.99% fixed rate.
>
>Does anyone know of another place?


Several years ago now, I tried to finance my DeLorean purchase through JJ 
Best. I found them to be extremely unreliable and I always felt like the 
were not completly honest. At the time I was looking to purchase a DeLorean 
from Steve in Houston. JJ Best led me on until the last minute and then 
denied my loan because they said the car "wasn't worth it". (If memory 
serves me Steve actually recommended them to me.) About a year later JJ Best 
sent me a letter asking if there was any way they could serve me. I politely 
explained to them the earlier incident. I never heard from them again. Now I 
take every opportunity to warn people about them.

Incidentally, I finally received financing from Bank Of America 
(Nationsbank). Never underestimate your friendly local banker either. Most 
are eager to earn life long customers.

Good Luck,

Dave
VIN 5524
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 00:08:35 EST
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: 3.0 Eagle motors

In a message dated 2/27/01 8:30:07 AM Central Standard Time, 
darryl_at_dml_techline.com writes:

<< As for the DMC heads not fitting on the Eagle
 block, I can't answer that.  John Lane at Pacific Rim thought they would, so
 we'll have to wait and see how he accomplishes that.  I do know he said he
 would be using the even fire cams and alloy rockers in the DMC heads.  I'll
 keep everyone posted. >>

  Darryl,
    John is correct, the DMC heads WILL bolt to the Eagle block, as long as 
you use Eagle head gaskets. By using the D heads, John will also be able to 
use the entire K-Jet intake system from the D, which should make the hook up 
of the fuel system pretty straight forward. And since the K-Jet is a constant 
injection system, it should work equally well with either the even fire or 
odd fire setup. You are also correct that if he stays with the even fire 
crankshaft in the Eagle block, he needs to use the even fire cams and valve 
train also, which again will fit in the D heads. This will also require that 
he run the Eagle even fire ignition distributor off the front of the motor 
and plug the hole in the back of the D head for the D distributor, which 
should not be a problem. Matter of fact, having the distributor mounted on 
the front of the right head will make it much easier to work with, and it 
sounds like John's already got the fix for using the E ignition system with 
the Delorean electric's from some of his prior projects.
    I don't know what he's going to do about the compression ratio of his new 
motor. The D heads have smaller chambers then the E heads. My calculations 
show a stock D head on a stock E block will produce a compression ratio of 
about 9.9 to 1, which isn't too bad. This increase in compression should bump 
the engine output about another 10 HP. Testing has shown the stock Delorean 
K-Jet fuel system has sufficient volume to handle up to about 200 HP, so all 
in all, I'd say John is working on one of the most "user friendly" PRV 
swaps/upgrades that can be done. I'm not trying to imply this is an "easy" 
project to do, but it is a combination that makes a lot of sense to me.
     I think John has maybe come up with a very workable combination, and I 
congratulate him on it. Darryl, please keep us up to date as things progress.

   Marty



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 21:53:10 -0800
From: Mike Hirko <mikehirko_at_dml_tdn.com>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump

    I bought a heat shield (yes, it apparently is thick rubber) about 14 years
ago from Bauerle & installed it myself with no problems encountered. Don't
remember too much about it since it was so long ago & haven't had any occasion
to even think of it until now.  His ad in the latest Delorean World does not
list the heat shield.  Call to see if they still sell it:

Bauerle Automotive Inc.
4211 Radnor Road
Radnor  OH  43066

Phone 740 595-3348
no website or e-mail data listed




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:09:08 -0500
From: "M1" <PWPilot_at_dml_jcn.com>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump

Walt;

Re: Noisy Fuel Pump.

I've been through quite a few situations with the fuel pump in '83. Without
going into all of the details at this time, I can say that from my
experiences the fuel pump, when receiving a sufficient supply of fuel runs
very quietly. The only time mine makes any real amount of noise is when the
pump itself is starved for fuel. The fuel starvation at the fuel pump inlet
causes cavitation ( air bubbles ), and these passing through the pump are
what makes the noise.

The cause of this on my car was bad parts in the fuel tank supply system:
defective filter material on the fuel tank baffle, and collapsed fuel hose
from tank baffle to the pump. The noise, in several episodes of fuel system
problems, was always the first sign of impending fuel pump failure.

Interestingly enough the fuel pump itself is actually cooled by the fuel
passing through it, and is a significant source of heat. The pump draws
about six amps: this results in about 60 watts of heat added to the fuel
over time. Strange as it may seem, the fuel actually passes directly over
the pump motor armature and the commutator brushes. The reason that this
does not cause an explosion is because the pump body is hermetically sealed,
and with no way for air to get in there can be no problems.

George Ryerson



-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Noisy fuel pump
>
>Walt;
>
>I had the same problem this weekend.  During the meeting of the ETDOC, at
the very tail end of the trip, mine started making some noise. 



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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:29:28 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump

The noise problem I have seems to be strictly fuel temperature related.  It
sounds like this is a common problem.

There is a remote chance that maybe most of our problem is from a suction
hose going soft and collapsing.  One way to find out:  Has anyone replaced
their suction hose with the newly manufactured part from a legit DeLorean
vendor AND still had the temperature related noise afterwards?

My suction hose appears to be the original.  It has a little soft spot where
it sat too long in a mostly empty tank (I think).  Maybe if these original
hoses get too hot, then they get soft and collapse to some degree making the
fuel pump noisy.

Granted, some fuel pumps are noisy from the get-go, and that may be due to a
different cause.

I suppose that my next test will be to wait until I get the noise again,
turn the engine off, hot wire the RPM relay while I carefully take the fuel
pump out and check the hose while the pump is running.  (Ka-boom!)

Chances are the problem is just that the Bosch fuel pumps like to make noise
when they are hot.

I still have the bulk head cover off just for luck (and because I am lazy).
That contributes to some of the volume of the noise, but not much.  I know
if I put them back on, then I will need to take them right off again.  I
usually leave the covers off of my PCs for the same reason.  Besides, those
darn rivnuts are either stripped out or spin in the fiberglass.  I hate
those things!  I'm thinking about replacing all of them with custom nuts
made from stainless steel blanks.  Each blank would have 'wings' on it with
threaded screw holes in the wing tips.  These would be attached under the
fiberglass with counter-sunk pan head machine screws in the fiberglass.
Then probably followed up with a dab of RTV.  In the center would be the
replacement threaded hole for the rivenut which would line up with the
original hole in the fiberglass.  Does anyone like this idea?

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 00:49:12 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <smeghead79_at_dml_home.com>
Subject: Re: 3.0 Eagle Motor

I wrote a lengthy post about this ages ago which never made it to the
list.  I also read a post in the archives about the feasibility and
unfeasibility of the Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco engine swap.  From what
I've read, it's not worth it.  Timing's different, blocks are different,
etc. etc. etc.  For further information, read the archives.

I also have posted the name, address, and phone number of a guy who
swapped out a DeLorean engine for the engine of his customer's choice. 
See also the archives.  THAT post made it to the list.  :)

Anyway, I'm still here, reading, since I don't own a D yet.

Just my $0.02

- Farrar Hudkins
(Thankful that Mardi Gras is over tonight!)



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 02:18:49 -0500
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com>
Subject: Re: Re: 3.0 Eagle motors (and trannies)

Hi,
I read all this talk about installing an Eagle Premier tranny in a DeLorean
and.... let me tell you something I know from experience. DON'T DO IT!!!
That transmission is very poorly made. The idea was good (4 speed overdrive)
but every Premier that I have seen had a problem with the transmission. They
all go at about 50k - 60k miles. The funny thing is that the transmission
itself still works, but you have no fourth gear so you have to drive in D
(not overdrive - D in circle) so, it kind of makes no sense because after a
while you end up with the same three speed tranny. If you really consider
replacing the auto with something modern and with overdrive try finding
something that is reliable. Something that will last longer that original D
tranny and will let you say 'it was worth the trouble'.

My 2 cents...

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298 (for sale)
tomcio_at_dml_jamesik.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:35 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: 3.0 Eagle motors (and trannies)


> To be completly accurate the way the gearing is "reversed" in the
> Delorean application is that the final drive case is machined so the
> 



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 05:49:26 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: High idle probs...

Hey List,

      Now that I got the timing right (using timing light, the notch on the 
crankshaft lines up with the 13 degrees notch on the plate for cylinder #1) 
but now I am getting a high idle, and my frequency valve doesn't buzz at all. 
 I was wondering what direction I should start looking in?  Also I still have 
the original lambda probe installed, the wire is cut from it, and I still 
have to remove it to put the new one in.  Since the lambda probe is only used 
when the engine is hot, I don't think this is causing a problem right now.  
My car is idling at around 2000 RPMs.  Plus, when I rev it hard I get 
backfiring into the intake.  Thanks for any help anyone can give me!

Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 07:31:26 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs_at_dml_flash.net>
Subject: Re: Re: 3.0 Eagle motors (and trannies)

Dave,

I considered this trans for the 97 Delorean.   I even went out and bought
one and took it apart.  A custom case would have to be designed and machined
for the differential.  It was cheaper to get the Porsche 4 speed automatic
which bolted right up to the axles.

Bob Brandys




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:07:23 -0500
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel_at_dml_minalco.com>
Subject: RE: be grateful for your blessing

Not to make this along thread, but I always let people see my car, inside
and out.  Most of the time I even ask if they would like to sit in it.  I
had a FedEx guy the other week as I was starting my D for a once a month run
(here in Northern NY the season ends about Oct and begins around March or
even April) who wanted to see the car.  I gave him the whole song and dance,
then offered to let him have a seat if he wanted. He told me that he was in
his work clothe and didn't want to mess up my car.  Now I am as obsessive
about the cleanliness of my car as any one here is, but when it comes to a
fan who really is interested in the car, I don't mind a bit more cleaning to
make up for it.  He had never been up close to another D in his life, let
alone sat in one, so this was a great thrill for him.

That's what it is all about...

Jack & Virginia Stiefel
'81 DeLorean Vin 03461 Aug.1981 NYS Lic:1981 DMC
'97 Red BMW Z3 Convertible 6 cyl, not the baby 4
'99 Ford Expedition 4x4 Eddie Bauer Edition
'01 Black PT Cruiser Limited w/Flames
Visit us at www.sacketmansion.com <http://www.sacketmansion.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Horseman of PA [mailto:the_horseman_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 6:29 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] be gratefull for your blessing

Just remember your good fortune and the next time someone
comes up to you and asks "Can i see the car" 



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:12:14 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump

[MODERATOR NOTE - Sarcasm alert! - please don't take these suggestions seriously - humor intended!]

Walter,
My guess would be that the radiator cooling pipes that run along side of the
gas tank are the major contributor to the heating of the fuel in the tank.
You are right about the other sources of heat gain.  If the pump is
extremely noisy, check and make sure that the fuel inlet screen is not
clogged or that the hose has not been pinched or collapsed.  Coming back
from the Cleveland show, my pump sounded like a garbage disposal.  I ended
up stopping every hour or so to fill the tank up with cool fuel.  It turns
out that I had bought a load of extremely dirty gas in Cleveland.  The noise
was the pump cavitating because of a clogged suction.  Warm/Hot fuel will
cause the pump to cavitate and is aggravated by a lower fuel level in the
tank.  A deflector for the air coming off of the radiator may give some
relief, route the air from the fans to the wheel wells.  We might have to
install cross drilled brake rotors to compensate for the extra heat from the
radiator to the brakes.  We could route the cooling lines thru the passenger
compartment and bonnet to the radiator. I know, put a AC  loop inside the
gas tank, we could refrigerate the fuel.  How about mounting the fuel tank
inside the passenger compartment on the rear package shelf.  This would
increase the trunk capacity.  We could mount the radiator horizontally on
the rear louver or even put in one of those VW air-cooled engines.  The
possibilities are endless.
Maybe the best thing to do would be to turn up the stereo when you get tired
of the hum of the fuel pump.  ;-)

Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981


Original Message -----
From: Walter <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 5:08 PM
Subject: [DML] Noisy fuel pump


> Rob Grady was right....
> Replacing my old noisy 



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:19:54 -0500
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump

Walt;
As to your question about the newness of the hoses, mine is new.  The entire front part of my fuel system has been replaced (pump, hoses, tank, baffle system, etc) I personally like the idea of mounting it behind the seat.  Not only do we have the utmost in safety, but we can also feel like we are driving an old pickup truck.  Kinda kills the flux capacitor jokes, huh?

Scott<br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:14:46 EST
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Noisy fuel pump & using wrong parts



<< One way to find out:  Has anyone replaced
 their suction hose with the newly manufactured part from a legit DeLorean
 vendor AND still had the temperature related noise afterwards? >>


    I replaced the entire fuel injection system. This was a reliability and 
safety issue. If you don't know the condition of the main fuel hose from the 
filter to the distributor, replace it with the correct DMC part. Many cars 
still have the original hose. The heat and wear have caused many fuel hoses 
to split and catch on fire.

     The fuel pump kit and lower suction hose ($90.00 hose) have never given 
me any problems. (knock on wood). 
    It seems that many of the problems, fuel, engine, etc., on the DML are 
new owners fixing poor workmanship and replacing incorrect non-DMC parts.

    It seems pretty simple with these cars, use correct DMC parts = reliable 
car.

Mike
Vin 3713



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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:24:26 EST
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: 3.0 Eagle Motor



Why go through all of this trouble?

Especially when this engine breaks or needs service.

The Renault version of the PRV used in the actual production of the DeLorean 
is unique to the United States. Yes, there are different versions of the PRV, 
just like different wines. If you start mixing whiskey (strong) with wine 
(not as) you get a very poor taste.
    
The DeLorean is an inexpensive entry into the modern collector car arena. I 
can understand restoring them and enjoying them, but why go through the 
trouble to swap out this and modify that?
What's the point?


Mike
VIN 3713



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 15:33:13 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: High idle probs...

For the backfiring try adjusting the intake and exhaust valves, since 
I don't know how many miles are on the motor it could just be a tight 
intake valve adjustment but it could also be, bad ignition wires, 
cracked dist cap, overly lean fuel adjustment. For the high idle check 
that the three large brass screws on the intake are LIGHTLY seated 
closed and that the throttle plates are closing all of the way. Make 
sure at idle the idle micro is activated. Get the freq valve to buzz, 
it is needed for a smooth idle and to enrich the fuel mixture, It 
could also be the cause of the backfire because of the lean mixture. 
Check the relay that suplies power to the lambda circuit and fix the 
wire to the 02 sensor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., njp548_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hey List,
> 
>       Now that I got the timing right (using timing light, the notch 
on the 
> crankshaft lines up with the 13 degrees notch on the plate for 
cylinder #1) 
> but now I am getting a high idle, and my frequency valve doesn't 
buzz at all. 
>  I was wondering what direction I should start looking in?  Also I 
still have 





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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:33:21 EST
From: senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump



<< We might have to
 install cross drilled brake rotors to compensate for the extra heat from the
 radiator to the brakes.  We could route the cooling lines thru the passenger
 compartment and bonnet to the radiator. I know, put a AC  loop inside the
 gas tank, we could refrigerate the fuel.  How about mounting the fuel tank
 inside the passenger compartment on the rear package shelf.  This would
 increase the trunk capacity.  We could mount the radiator horizontally on
 the rear louver or even put in one of those VW air-cooled engines.  The
 possibilities are endless. >>

Yeah, I agree!
We could put in an Eagle fuel pump and cut the hood to add hood scoop to 
deflect cool air on the pump. 
    If you mount the...and swap out the...you get a piece of...

Mike
VIN3713



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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:47:37 EST
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: 3.0 Eagle motors

Regarding bolting a Delorean intake/heads/K-jet system to an Eagle 3.0 short 
block for an "easier" displacement increase for the D:  This may be minor , 
but one thing I noticed while looking over the Eagle motor is that with the 
distributor in the front of the head, not behind the intake, it appears the 
distributor will conflict with the Delorean's original belt routing if the 
alternator is kept in the original Delorean location.  (On the Eagle the 
alternator sits low on what would be the Delorean's driver's side, right 
where the catalytic converter is.)  With the serpentine belt system, I think 
I have a way around this, keeping all of the accessories in  the original 
Delorean position.  With a V belt, I'm not sure what you could do.  I'll post 
more on this and pics when I start converting the Eagle motor.

Steve
    VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
    www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:05:52 -0500
From: Shain <shain_at_dml_noln.com>
Subject: Email Address

Hello,

Can someone please send me the email address of Aldo Buono of DeLorean
Midatlantic?  Thank you.

- Shain




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:23:43 -0500
From: steven.rogers_at_dml_us.cgeyc.com
Subject: Re: Re: Noisy fuel pump




Years ago when my fuel pump consistently made the annoying humming sound, I
had it remedied by Don
at DMC in garden grove CA by installing a heat-shield in front of the fuel
tank.  This was apparently a common
fix for a common problem.  Adding cool fuel will also fix the problem
immediately, but of course in 100miles or
so it will reappear.  The problem (according to lore at the time) was the
hot air from the fans heating up the
surrounding fuel tank area upon which the fuel pump sticks out of.  This
hot air heats the fuel pump and causes
the noise.  All I know is the heat-shield did the trick.
Steven





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:55:51 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: FYI Craig radio on eBay

Display doesn't light.  The offer suggests that it might just be a
working pull but two pointed questions determined that it doesn't light
up.  Bid accordingly.

Les




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 19:10:46 -0000
From: meester_at_dml_sprynet.com
Subject: Looking for Delorean in the Northwest

I am looking to buy a Delorean on the West coast.  Preferably 
Washington, or Oregon, but could travel down to California.  I would 
like to stay under $15000.  It is not that important that all the 
updates are done since, I could do a lot of it myself. My preference 
would be a 5sp with gray, but I know I can't be picky.  Thanks for 
any info you can offer.




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:38:04 -0000
From: essayons07_at_dml_juno.com
Subject: auto trans

<As with other tranny swaps for the DeLorean, it would be necessary 
<to find a way to reverse its gearing.  I believe this has never been 
<done successfully with that particular gearbox, but a creative 
<person who undertook such a project might create a very unique and 
<luxurious DeLorean.

Some time ago I located a dealer in the UK that sold new automatic 
transmissions for about 1200 UKPounds.  According to them this 
included the transaxle, transmission unit, and computer.  I was also 
told that they would reverse the ring gear to allow the reverse 
installation for about 200 UKPounds.  At the time this meant I could 
get a brand new trans set up for around $2,500.  I guess you would 
have to take a leap of faith...warranty repairs would pose a 
problem!  

I'll have to look up my research but I know Renault had a car they 
never imported that used the same trans.  I have a picture of the 
engine compartment of this car and other than a power steering belt 
set up the engine looks identical down to the air filter housing.  I 
do not know if this is the Premier engine or not.  This Renault was 
also available in turbo form.

My trans stopped giving me problems but when it eventually fails I 
plan to do more research along this route. 

There is a 4 speed automatic that would bolt up but would require 
modifications to make it work.  I forgot what the modifications 
were.  I think maybe it was an electric shift..dunno..

Jeff






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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 13:25:24 -0500
From: Shain <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Eamil Address

Hello,

Just an address correction,  sorry for the dual message.  Can someone
please send me the email address of Aldo Buono of DeLorean
Midatlantic?  Thank you.

- Shain
shain(AT) elecmods.com





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:12:17 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Engine Swap Thread

This is one of those recurring threads, that leads one to the "there 
are two kinds of people" statements. There are those who enjoy re-
engineering/ improving/ over-restoring cars, and those who enjoy 
maintaining and showing the cars as-originally designed. There are 
also those who polish them and those who drive them (sometimes the 
same person). You see this in almost any group of car enthusiasts, 
the "purists" vs the "performance" people, and then with some you 
even get the "gut the car and race it" types. They seldom understand 
each other. 

I guess the message here is not to try and convert anyones thinking, 
and to appreciate each other for what we value. 

An example of this is the radical custom DMC that shows up at the 
Ohio shows; you may not like it, but you can appreciate the work that 
went into it. Same for the V-8/turbo/etc engine conversions. We are 
fortunate enought that there are enough DeLoreans in circulation, in 
a wide enough variety of conditions,  that doing such things is not 
exactly as heinous as putting a Chevy engine in a 1962 Ferrari would 
be. 

Dave Swingle <<=== part-time automotive philosopher 




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:28:58 EST
From: qrorell_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Temporary Import of DMC to USA

I have imported a few cars into the states as a military member so most of the rules do not apply to me. But I did do some quick research for you. Check out the following:
 The following vehicles need not conform to emission or safety requirements but may NOT be sold in the U.S. and may require EPA and DOT declarations: 


Those imported by nonresidents for personal use not exceeding one year. The vehicle must be exported at the end of that year-no exceptions or extensions.

Those belonging to members of foreign armed forces, foreign diplomatic personnel, and members of public international organizations on assignment in the U.S. for whom free entry has been authorized by the Department of State.

Those temporarily imported for research, demonstration, or competition, provided they are not licensed for use, or driven, on public roads. Parties responsible for such vehicles must submit proper documents-that is, forms EPA 3520-1 and DOT HS-7 to Customs at the time entry is made. Also, applicable written approvals from these agencies must be obtained in advance and presented to Customs along with these forms. Remember, the cost to return vehicles that have been refused prior approval can be very high and must be borne by the vehicle's owner(s).
I got the above at this web site:
http://www.customs.ustreas.gov/imp-exp2/informal/car.htm#DOT
And this may help as well:
http://autopedia.com/Export/ImportExportRegs.html

The port of Long Beach in Ca. is the number one area for clearing customs and in the L.A. area so a quick trip up the highway if that is where you are going to get your car worked on.
Hope this helps!
Barry 




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