From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 442
Date: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 4:54 AM

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There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Gas problems
From: Michael Pike <>

2. power window jumping

3. Rich mixer
From: "Jerry Harry" <>

4. Re: The yearly A/C question
From: Marc A Levy <>

5. Re: drain plug removal tool

6. Re: Health problems in Ireland??
From: Marc A Levy <>

7. Belfast
From: "Drinkware" <>

8. Re: Health problems
From: "David Swingle" <>

9. Re: Gas problems
From: "Jim Reeve" <>

10. Re: Rich mixer

11. Re: Gas problems

12. Re: Gas problems
From: Mike Substelny <>

13. Lift it up question
From: Les Huckins <>

14. Re: Lift it up question
From: "Jim Reeve" <>

15. Semi-Taking-Car-Out-Of-Storage
From: "Jim Reeve" <>

16. Re: Re: DeLorean B28F Reliability

17. Re: Lift it up question
From: "Jesse D. Sightler" <>

18. Balancing and Blueprinting a PRV-V6

19. Re: Gas problems

20. Re: Belfast
From: "Chris Parnham" <>

21. Drivers Education

22. Re: The yearly A/C question
From: "K Creason" <>

23. Re: Drivers Education
From: Robert Greenhaw <>

24. Check the Ad Page
From: "Dave Swingle" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 20:59:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Pike <>
Subject: Gas problems

Nope, I didn't eat beans :)

Today was my bi-weekly "take the d car out, wash it,
and feel proud" day, weather was perfect,around 65,
and sunny.

My fuel gauge doesn't work, so after calling the folks
in Houston, he said to try and fill the tank up and it
might snap it into shape (it didnt, but thats not the

I topped the tank off, held about 11 bux, or 7.9
gallons.... then the pump shut off...

I go to put the nozzle back on the pump, and my foot
slips, I look down, and there is gas running out of
the bottom of the car like a garden hose.

It's getting everywhere... quickly, I go in and wash
off the bottom of my shoe, go and get in the car, and
take it back to my storage garage, get out, and find
its not leaking anymore.... so, I continue on with my
plans... I drive approximately 35 miles into town and
get to Wal-mart where I am going to buy a chamois
(shammy) to wash it and then use some of the polish I
got from houston.... I go in the store for about 20
minutes, come back out, and the car won't start.  I
try for about 10 minutes, pumping the gas, etc. until
finally the starter gets groggy sounding (low
battery), so I stop, call my wife, and she meets me
there.  We go get some dinner, and I've concluded at
this point the car leaked all the gas out.. so, I go
back to walmart and get a gas can, goto a gas station,
get 3 gallons of gas, and head back to the delorean...
(and let me tell you, I never had a problem with the
gas tank being in the front of the car on the hood
until I tried to dump gas from a bottle in it.. got
ALL over me AND the car).. anyhow, I dump it in, and
sure enough, its running out of the bottom of the car
again....but it started.

Rather than call Triple A and tow it, I run the car to
the gas station, (I was going to fill it up again and
book like hell home).. well, the tank will only hold
83 cents, and the leaking started again, then stopped.
 Car started, ran well all the way home (other than a
real strong gas smell which I am assuming came from
the big mess I made all over the hood)...

I called the former owner and he said that "oh!! you
never want to fill the thing up, I only put 5-7
gallons in at a time so I know how much is in there..
if you fill it up, the Delorean has an over-flow, and
dumps it on the ground.. when u filled it up, it was
spurting out the overflow)...

Ok - is this true?  Is the over flow that bad it spits
it out of the bottom, before the pump shuts off?  He
said the reason it wouldnt start is because I flooded
it... well, i did get it started again, and it held
.80 so that  told me it was full...

Do I have a problem here, or was this a case of over
filling the car?

also, second question, the button to turn on my
headlights isnt working half the time.. I have to push
the button like 25-30 times before it will stay in the
on position... is this common, and if so, are there
replacements that are easy to go in?

This is VIN 855, an early car, and when I called DMC
in houston he said, "all I can tell you is look out,
thats an early model and they were experiementing with
them, I bet your doors don't quite fit right", and
he's right.. the car has little flaws (dont bug me,
makes it more original)... I'm wondering, this car has
a little over 4000 miles on it.... so I can assume it
hasnt had long enogh for most of the problems to occur
that others have had (it runs great other than what
just happened in this messagE)... would it be wise for
me to ship the car to say Houston, or DMC joe and have
the thing "upgraded" with all the latest fixes before
running into them one at a time?  And if so, what
kinda cost would we look at?  So far I have no brake
lights, no fuel gauge, and thats it.. but I've seen
nightmares regarding fuel pumps, windows, and other
things quite often in the news list.

When I bought this car I knew of the common quirks..
this car is my baby, so I dont mind the things that
come with it, but I'd prefer to fix it all at once
instead of piece mealing it, because I have to ship it
off to get it fixed...

sorry for rambling, I get to talking about delorean's
and I cant stop :)

Oh, and one other last thing, my car doesnt over heat,
but it was spitting out some serious anti-freeze at
walmart... is there a common place to look for a leak?

VIN 855

Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 21:48:59 EST
Subject: power window jumping

Hello all,

today i had a very enjoyable day of tech work with Jim Reeve on my DeLorean.  
among the things we did was replace my power lock system, install new power 
window regulators, and work on my fan wiring.  

the window motors were tricky, but we got it to happen.  the passenger side 
one is GREAT, no grinding, just smooth sailing, however, the driver's side is 
sketchy.  we put the new regulator in and it worked great for a few tries, 
then after awhile we tried it again and now it's jumping on it's way up.  it 
jumps once on the way up - about 1 inch from the top, and it jumps once on 
the way down - about an inch before the bottom.  when it 'jumps', it seems to 
stutter once, and you can feel something 'click' inside there, but it stays 
on track and goes all the way up like it should.  we can find no way of 
adjusting the tracks and this is very confusing because my old window didn't 
do this and the new one worked well on the initial test, now all of a sudden 
it's acting up.  i should also mention that when the window is open, there is 
quite a bit of play between the window and its slot in the door.

if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this, please advise.  if there is no 
fix and something is bent or something, should i just put the door back 
together and not let it bother me? like i said, it goes up and down like it 
should, yet it jumps once either way, and it sounds kind of sick when this 

please advise!
by the way, my rear signal light magically works again!

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 22:43:00 -0600
From: "Jerry Harry" <>
Subject: Rich mixer

Hello List;
Want to first say what a great asset this list has been.  My hobby for the passed year has been putting my D together and all the fun I have had doing it.  
Got it passed inspection and have started to put a few miles on it.
Could someone advise me on why it is running so rich for the first 60 second or so, after it runs for a mintue or so it leans out and runs good but in those first few second it pours gas. Boy is it easy to start. Touch the key and it is running, if I touch the gas pedal it will flood and die. Just turn the key and give it a minute then you can drive it as hard as you want, runs fine.
Yours in the Hobby
vin# 4890


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 08:51:37 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <>
Subject: Re: The yearly A/C question

NO!  Don't convert!

We have been hearing that R12 will be gone in a year for 10 years!  If anything,
R12 has become more affordable in the last few years.  When it was first
"banned" the price jumped, but it is not as bad as everyone things.

R-134a is not as cold as R-12, and it runs at much higher pressure.  The R12
system and compressor was not designed for the higher pressures needed for
R-134a.  I don't know about any new orifice tube to make it colder, but if this
does exists it would probably increase the pressure in the system even more!

If you decide to stick with R-12, make sure you get PURE R-12!  There are a lot
of R-12 like refrigerants, and even some blends.  A lot of the mixtures contain
PROPANE (Which is a very good refrigerant, but it's highly explosive properties
make it a safety hazard).  Use a AC tech that has a refrigerant tester, this
device will tell the tech exactly what he is putting in to the system.

If you still want to go with R-134a (and I don't think this is a good idea),
Make sure the ENTIRE SYSTEM is flushed with a solvent to remove the R12 oil (R12
oil does not mix well with R134A and can damage the system), replace all of the
O ring seals, replace the orifice tube, and the dryer canister.  Many of the
steps to do a proper conversion are skipped in the interest of saving money (or
more profit for the mechanic) and you wont realize it was done wrong until your
something breaks 2 years from now.

Also, check the DML back issues for more information.

Ryan McCaffrey wrote:
> Should I convert to R-134a?  The AZ-D club mechanic, Stan Davis, who is the
> owner of Mesa Auto Works, said that I won’t be able to get R-12 in a year.
> He also said that 134a is made colder by a new adjustable orifice tube (my
> paraphrase may not be exactly correct there) that adjusts to make it a bit
> colder.  Should I hunt down and pay more for the colder, stock R-12 or
> convert to the 134a?


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:48:36 -0000
Subject: Re: drain plug removal tool

I've been using Snap-On PPM-410 5/16" Male Pipe Plug (7.94 mm!) and a 
12" breaker bar. The Snap-On truck I flagged down several years ago 
had it on the truck!
Vin 17015

--- "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> OIL drain - Snap-On PMM-408 Male Pipe Plug socket 8 mm
> BTW the trans drain tool is a PMP-410 Female pipe plug socket 10 mm. 


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 08:53:53 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <>
Subject: Re: Health problems in Ireland??

My question was more about the US Customs letting us back in!  Although humans
cannot get the disease, we can carry it!!

Chris Parnham wrote:
> Foot AND mouth, only effects "clove hoofed " there something
> your not telling us Mark?
> Any way, it should be well sorted by then.


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 11:26:47 -0500
From: "Drinkware" <>
Subject: Belfast

And so I salivate as I read about the dream trip to Ireland,  suggestions on where to stay, where to drink a pint, currency, sights, see the test track, and wonder. Anyone out there want to sponsor me on a trip to Ireland? I'll take pictures, write a report for you, and partake in all the Delorean functions. Ah, to be where it all started, and add memories to the dream! 
Marvin Stein  #4239, a devoted owner for over 10 years!
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 16:18:27 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <>
Subject: Re: Health problems

If it's a big worry, I'm sure that US Immigration Services would be 
happy to give anyone an update via a phone call, although I suspect 
that they are getting a bunch of this sort of call right about now.

I suspect that if the US Immigration was turning back the 25 or so 
747s full of people that come here from Ireland and/or the UK 
everyday, it would be more than a minor story on the evening news by 

Dave Swingle

BTW - End of this thread.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> My question was more about the US Customs letting us back in!  
Although humans
> cannot get the disease, we can carry it!!


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 16:22:11 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <>
Subject: Re: Gas problems

A properly sealed DeLorean gas tank will NOT spill gas out of the 
bottom.  I bet your fuel pump support boot and/or cover boot are 
dried out.  When this happens, the fuel tank looses it's seal around 
the fuel pump, and gas spills out.  All vendors have these parts.  It 
may also be possible that when the fuel pump got drowned in gas, it 
caused it to temporarily quit working.  When the gas dried out later 
in the day, it worked fine.  That is where you should start looking, 
other possible spots would be the fuel tank sender's seal, or the 
rubber filler hose's seal.  Good luck.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 11:48:15 EST
Subject: Re: Rich mixer

Jerry, For a short answer. The 02 sensor is not pre heated like in some of 
the newer cars. So untill the exhaust heats up the 02 sensor, it will run 
rich. After it heats up, the exhaust mixture gas will be monitered by the 
02=Lambda ECU=Frequency Valve.  If all else is working ok, the engine will 
smooth out.
John Hervey


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 11:10:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Gas problems


The first thing I would do is remove the carpet and spare tire from the
trunk.  After you remove the spare tire, you will see a removable cover that
will allow you to gain access to the fuel pump and sender.  This may be
where your leak is coming from.  Drive to a gas station and start to fill it
up and watch for the leaks.  I've had problems with the sender gasket
leaking and this may be the cause of your leak as well.  Gas went everywhere
like you're going through.

On the headlight switch prob...yea that is a common problem.  You can get
them from the usual DMC sources and they are relatively inexpensive and easy
to install.

On the antifreeze leak prob....goto a local garage and borrow or ask them to
do a coolant pressure test of your cooling system.  It should hold 15 psi
for 15 min.  Once you start pressurizing the system, start looking around
for leaks.  Also check around the intake area as well.

Hope this helps,


----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Pike" <>
To: <>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 10:59 PM
Subject: [DML] Gas problems

> I go to put the nozzle back on the pump, and my foot
> slips, I look down, and there is gas running out of
> the bottom of the car like a garden hose.


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:53:53 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <>
Subject: Re: Gas problems


As a fellow owner of an early DeLorean (not quite as early as yours) I can
assure you that a few simple updates can repair all those quirks that make your
DeLorean as relaible as any other.  There are several good tail light fixes.
This one is cheap; and 100% effective:

As to your leak, follow Duke's advice and check out the top of the fuel tank,
accessable beneath the spare tire.  All the potential sources for this type of
leak are there.

It is possible that you have two related problems.  The original fuel gage
senders were terrible, and almost impossible to repair.  I have seen people
attempt to repair them, with nuts and bolts and soldering irons.  Not only does
this seldom work, it can cause a leak in the top of the sender unit.

Thus the previous owner may have inadvertantly created a fuel leak.  This would
explain why he warned you not to fill the tank.

The leak could also come from the fuel pump or the filler tube.  You may only
need to tighten the clamp around the pump.  If you want to find and fix the
leak, follow Duke's instructions.

If you ever want to know what your correct fuel level is, I recommend that you
do not even try to salvage the worthless sender unit that came with your car.
Get yourself a Tankzilla.  They are reliable and idiot proof.  Once you remove
the panel below your spare tire, anyone can install a Tankzilla in five minutes.

If you want your doors to close properly get yourself the right set of door
guides from a DeLorean parts supplier.  Early DeLoreans did not have them, but a
set should be avaliable that fits your car.  They work wonders!

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 8 years


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 10:08:23 -0800
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: Lift it up question

Going under the front end for the first time, I understand the 2x4,
floor jack, theory, my question is when I get it up in the air can I use
the little ramps you get at car parts stores to slip under the wheels?
I like them better than jack stands, they give more vertical clearance,
the stands are not in the way, and I think they're safer.  I ask first
because they're loaned out and I don't want to chase them if the idea
doesn't work...does it?  Do the exhaust tips hit the ground if you raise
it that high?

Thanks, Les


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 19:06:03 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <>
Subject: Re: Lift it up question

If your gonna place the car on ramps, why dont you just drive up 
them? (Assuming they are shallow enough.)  In either case, you 
shouldn't have a problem placing the front end on ramps.  I dont know 
how high your ramps are, but I never had a problem with the exhaust 
using my ramps.  Make sure you lower the car slowly!  The wheels will 
move outward a little as weight is placed back upon them, you dont 
need it knocking the ramps over.  And one more precautionary note, 
when jacking up the front/center using a floor jack, make sure your 
not lifting on the crumple tubes!  I almost did once but caught 
myself quickly enough.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Going under the front end for the first time, I understand the 2x4,
> floor jack, theory, my question is when I get it up in the air can 
I use


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 19:18:37 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <>
Subject: Semi-Taking-Car-Out-Of-Storage

Next Sunday, weather permitting, I will be driving my car 12 miles 
from my grandparent's garage, to my house.  My car currently has no 
front end body panels on it.  I plan to put the hood back on, but the 
front fascia, lower airdam, and both front fenders are not on the 
car.  It will be quite a site, and I hope to get a friend to take a 
picture of it crusing down the freeway like that.  However, I am 
mostly concerned about my cooling system.  Last fall, I had no 
cooling problems at all with the 4000 miles I put on it since I 
bought it.  But last weekend, I opened up the engine compartment for 
the first time in 4 months, and the header bottle was empty.  I 
checked the cooling lines under the car, and almost every single 
rubber connector had some sort of small leak.  I am not terribly 
concerned about this though, since I will be replacing every rubber 
hose once I get it home.  My concern is that air might get trapped in 
the system when I top off the header bottle.  I have not yet 
installed a self bleeder, as I planned to do that at home when I was 
working on the whole system.  When I top if off and start the engine, 
should I open the bleeder screw a little and let it run for a few 
mintues like that, or is there a huge complex procedure I should 
follow?  I prefer it to be as simple as possible since after I get it 
home, it will be sitting for another 2 months while I conduct my 
30,000 mile tuneup.  Thats when it can get complicated and I wont 
care.  Thanks for any advise.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 14:24:22 EST
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean B28F Reliability

Dear DML,

Just curious, What happens IF someone overheats the engine?

What can we anticipate from the engine besides warped heads and head gasket 
    Bent Crankshaft?
    Piston damage?
    Bent Valves?
    Bearing failure?
    Camshaft wear?
    Engine replacement?

Has someone overheated their engine and experienced any significant component 


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 17:00:53 -0500
From: "Jesse D. Sightler" <>
Subject: Re: Lift it up question

Hi Les,

I've used ramps before with the Delorean in the past without any great 
difficulty.  The rear of the car has more than adequate clearance to 
prevent any hitting of the exhaust tips on a Delorean (even if it is 
slightly lowered).

I would recommend that you be a bit careful with putting it on the 
ramps, as they are usually very close to impacting the front end air 
scoop just as you drive the car up onto it.  You can either use boards 
to avoid this, or just have someone carefully apply a slight amount of 
lift to the wheel arch as you drive it up onto the ramp as its very 
close to being able to make it on its own.


Les Huckins wrote:

> Going under the front end for the first time, I understand the 2x4,
> floor jack, theory, my question is when I get it up in the air can I use
> the little ramps you get at car parts stores to slip under the wheels?
> I like them better than jack stands, they 


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 22:08:22 -0000
Subject: Balancing and Blueprinting a PRV-V6


          Thanks for all your help to my question about the B28F 
engine being reliable. I had a DeLorean once before (7003), and it 
was very reliable...except for it overheating. After replacing all 
the cooling system, I thought I had killed it, but no! Now that I 
look back on it, I can see that is was probably a busted water jacket 
in the coolant was always low. My engine was eating 
(boiling off) coolant! Oh well, now I am out to own another car, and 
here is my question: Has anyone attempted to balance and blueprint 
the prv-v6. Doing this to any engine will greatly improve the 
longevity and performance. I have a '77 Chevy van with a 350 with 
475,000 miles thanks to balancing and blueprinting. Much like 
snowflakes, no two engines are exactly the weight, size and 
quality. Whenever I get my new car, I would love to have one of DMC 
Houston's new engines (with the added H.P) sent off to have it 
balanced and blueprinted. Maybe DMC Joe has some thoughts on 
this...has anyone tackled this. I am looking for anyway 
to improve the DeLorean. Let me know what you guys think!

Best Wishes,

Sean Spurlock


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 20:57:26 -0000
Subject: Re: Gas problems

Tank leak:

There are 4 sections to check for leaks: Fuel pump boot, fuel tank 
sending unit, fuel filler hose, & fuel breather (overflow) hose. Make 
sure that all are firmly secured in place. Sometimes the sending unit 
can be screwed in crooked creating a gap for petrol to escape. Chances 
are that you may need to bite the bullet when checking this... Remove 
the spare tire, and the access panel for the fuel pump. Top off the 
tank. Check for any possible leaks. If all else fails, permatex makes 
an instant gasket product that's available _at_dml_ the auto parts store. 
It's a liquid that comes in a can, and the manufacturer states that it 
is resistant to gasoline. Plus it is easily removeable. Slather the 
leak with this stuff. Since using, the leak from my gastank is gone. I 
can also top off my gas tank and NOT smell gas. Plus my fuel economy 
has greatly improved!

Hard Starting:

Not really enough details as to what might be the issue. Could be a 
bad accumulator, but not enough clues. Next time this happens, try 
swapping the plugs between the cold start valve and the control 
pressure regulator to see if that gets you going...

Coolant Leak.

Where exactly was the coolant leaking from? If from the right rear, it 
could be a bad radiator cap.

Hope this helps get you off to a good start!

vin 6585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Nope, I didn't eat beans :)
> Today was my bi-weekly "take the d car out, wash it,
> and feel proud" day, weather was perfect,around 65,
> and sunny.


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:23:44 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <>
Subject: Re: Belfast


You will just have to put your hand in your pocket, like the rest of us!  I
really do think it's not to be missed, if you can possibly afford it.
 I personally will take any  "carless DeLorean fan",  around the test track
in my very rare Right hand Drive "Dusty", currently with only 4 miles on the
clock!  Just as Robert Lamrock did for me a few years ago....COME ON ..MAKE

Bring your video and still camera's and capture this very special, last
chance trip, It will fascinate future geneations.

Chris P DOC UK

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drinkware" <>
To: <>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 4:26 PM
Subject: [DML] Belfast

> And so I salivate as I read about the dream trip to Ireland,  suggestions
on where to stay, where to drink a pint, currency, sights, see the test
track, and wonder. Anyone out there want to sponsor me on a trip to Ireland?


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 19:29:18 EST
Subject: Drivers Education

In my Driver's education course (yes, I'm only 15, but my dad and I own a 
DeLorean and love it) my instructor has told me I need to get repair 
estimates on my D. My dad and I restored the D since age 14, and have only 
had one mechanic ever look at the car, so I haven;t really needed to get 
repair estimates, we just pay for the parts and fix it ourselves. However, my 
teacher insists I need to have repair estimates done along with insurance 
quotes. Every insurance company in Virginia has refuses to quote a 16 year 
old male for a DeLorean. Where can I even get a DeLorean quoted? I have this 
vehicle insured currently, but once again he refuses to allow me to use it. 
So, just out of curiosity, what would a repair estimate be on the following,
Replacing the fuel pump, 
cleaning the tank, replacing all coolant hoses, 
rebuilding the clutch slave cylinder, rebuilding the calipers( new seals), 
Replacing the front rotors and pads, 
removal and painting (and straigtening) of the fascias, and finally  
Setting the mixture and replacing the injector seals and injectors.
I don't need anything in depth (My teacher has no idea what a DeLorean is ), 
just a general estimate. Thank you for your help.


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 19:00:14 -0600
From: "K Creason" <>
Subject: Re: The yearly A/C question

That's not entirely correct.
There is a new R-134a oil available that does not have to have the old 12
oil pumped out.
You can buy that kit at Wal-Mart for $33 and it will probably be enough for
the D.
BUT-- you do have to get all the 12 gas out. I had a friend with a pump and
reclamation canister to store it.
And it does not require more pressure. It might be more effective with more
pressure, but it does not require more pressure.
But you are probably better off (living in Arizona) to get 12 if you can.
I'm in Houston... thinking I might regret going to 134a.
We'll see.......

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc A Levy" <>
To: <>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] The yearly A/C question

NO!  Don't convert!


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:35:55 -0600
From: Robert Greenhaw <>
Subject: Re: Drivers Education

  I'm 18 and came VERY close to getting a DeLorean back in
Dec. of '99.  I live in Alabama, and we have insurance through
My Mom talked to our agent and he told us hoe to get FULL coverage for
a VERY cheap price....have the car insured as a secondary driver under
parents with you as teh primary driver of the DeLorean.
  As I stated above though, I live in another state as you, as insurance
usually differ slightly between states. 
  Hope this helps some though!

Best Luck,


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 21:02:35 -0600
From: "Dave Swingle" <>
Subject: Check the Ad Page

Don't forget to stop by    once in a while and
take a look at the car-for-sale ads. There are currently over 50 ads. Some
interesting cars for sale  - now that it's almost spring it's time to start
shopping. Some have these have been listed for quite a while  - don't be
afraid to ask!

A couple of samples:
----8000 mile car in Hawaii
----VIN21013 - one of the last cars built, the last stainless (not gold or
----A disproportionate number of cars in the Chicago and Detroit areas
----Two in Austrialia

Prices range from 8,000 to 25,000, and absolutely everywhere in between, and
all around the world.

Help out the list - if you happen to contact a seller and find that the car
is sold or the email address bounces, please contact me so I can follow up
and clean up the dead ads---admaster(AT)

Dave Swingle


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