From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 443
Date: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 4:24 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Lift it up question
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com

2. Re: Lift it up question
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com

3. RE: engine swap
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

4. Re: Lift it up question
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

5. Re: Semi-Taking-Car-Out-Of-Storage
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com

6. Re: Drivers Education (insurance)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Drivers Education
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

8. Re: Semi-Taking-Car-Out-Of-Storage
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Gas problems
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. (Duke and Dave T., thanks)...More Questions!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

11. Fun-per-Dollar (FPD) Ratio
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com

12. RE: Re: Lift it up question
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel_at_dml_minalco.com>

13. Re: Lift it up question
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com

14. Re: Fun-per-Dollar (FPD) Ratio
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

15. Flights to Ireland.
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>

16. Consecutive VINs
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

17. Pullstraps
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

18. Re: Consecutive VINs
From: knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com

19. Re: Fun-per-Dollar (FPD) Ratio
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: Consecutive VINs
From: "Darren Cunningham" <darren.cunningham_at_dml_virgin.net>

21. Re: Drivers Education
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: (Duke and Dave T., thanks)...More Questions!
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

23. Re: Lift it up question
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Insuring a Delorean?
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

25. Re: (Duke and Dave T., thanks)...More Questions!
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 23:00:30 -0600
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com
Subject: Re: Lift it up question

Les,

If you mean the ramps like in the link below, yes they will work.  I had
mine on them during the engine swap.  Make sure you do the front first and
jack the front up evenly (one person on each side w/ a jack) so that you
don't put undo stress on the frame.   When you get ready to jack up the
rear, make sure you place the jack directly in the center of the crossmember
(use a block of wood there as well) and just jack it up slowly while someone
watches the front (just to be safe)

http://www.geocities.com/at88mph_1999/easier.jpg

Hope this helps,


Duke

----- Original Message -----
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:08 PM
Subject: [DML] Lift it up question


>my question is when I get it up in the air can I use
> the little ramps you get at car parts stores to slip under the wheels?
>
> Thanks, Les





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 23:13:04 -0600
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com
Subject: Re: Lift it up question

Opps!!! I hit the send button too quickly!!! If, however, you mean the
'drive on' style ramps, I would suggest getting a set of Rhino ramps.  You
can find them at local auto parts places and they aren't that expensive.
(Around $35-$40 I believe)  They are specifically made for lower profile
cars and stock height DeLorean's can fit on them easily.  You can see them
at:
http://store.yahoo.com/rodi/usm11905.html  but you can find them cheaper
locally.


Thanks,


Duke
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:08 PM
Subject: [DML] Lift it up question


> can I use the little ramps you get at car parts stores to slip under the
wheels?
>
> Thanks, Les





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 20:53:40 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: engine swap

> One might make the same argument that you're
> spreading misinformation by saying it handles better?  What's your proof?

My "proof" is having owned and driven 6 DeLoreans over the last 15 years,
the most recent having an IRON (okay, not steel) supercharged Chevy 4.3 V-6.
I was making a statement about something I have a fair amount of experience
with, compared to someone repeating unfortunate hearsay. Since most of us I
would guess are not road racing our cars on a track, the performance which
matters is how it handles on the road.  If you would like to compare, there
is a nearly empty freeway in front of my house.  By the time you get to a
corner where you can compare "maximum lateral acceleration" I'll be in the
next county.  Just my opinion.  Yours may vary.

Please lets not start a battle here.  I know my modified car offends some
purists, but keep in mind it was a vandalized, engine-less basket case which
had been ignored by restorers for years when I found it.

There is another performance standard to consider here - for a TOTAL
investment of about $10,000 I'll put my fun-per-dollar ratio up against
anyone's.

-- 
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 04:38:17 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Lift it up question

The ramps that I have seen are made from stamped sheet metal and spot 
welded together. IMHO I wouldn't put a go-kart on them. They provide 
no lateral stability, and for some cars there is not enough clearance 
to the fenders so you might hit or move them before you even get up on 
them. You cannot see what is going on while driving up and as for 
putting the car down on them after you jack it up prevents you from 
working on the wheels. If you work under your car and you want to be 
safe go buy some GOOD jackstands and use them correctly. Properly 
positioned with the car up nice and high you can even remove the 
trans. Make sure the floor is smooth and LEVEL. Besides the usual 
dangers of working on the fuel system, lifting and working underneath 
the car is dangerous if not done carefully. When setting the car on 
jackstands be aware that if placed under suspension components the 
jackstands may tend to move so watch carefully as you let the weight 
of the car onto them. After putting on the jackstands a good test is 
to shake the car side to side and see how steady it really is. (Try 
THAT with your ramps if you dare!) There is no chance it could roll 
off of the jackstands unlike the ramps. I store my car in "hover" mode 
for the winter on jackstands and I can inspect and clean it easily 
when it's time to revive it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Going under the front end for the first time, I understand the 2x4,
> floor jack, theory, my question is when I get it up in the air can I 
use



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 23:19:18 -0600
From: at88mph_at_dml_mobis.com
Subject: Re: Semi-Taking-Car-Out-Of-Storage

Jim,

This is just my opinion, but save yourself some time and headaches and just
have the car towed.  The last thing you wana do is take a chance on possibly
overheating the engine and breaking down somewhere.  Also, (this may sound
kinda stupid) but you could possibly get a ticket for driving the car w/o
the front end body panels and the front fascia.


Later,


Duke

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 1:18 PM
Subject: [DML] Semi-Taking-Car-Out-Of-Storage


> Next Sunday, weather permitting, I will be driving my car 12 miles
> from my grandparent's garage, to my house.  My car currently has no
> front end body panels on it.  I plan to put the hood back on, but the
> front fascia, lower airdam, and both front fenders are not on the
> car.




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 00:31:03 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Drivers Education (insurance)

Hello,

i've had a similar experience with insurance.  i'm 18 years old and i'm a 
freshman in college.  i bought my DeLorean last november.  i have a good 
relationship with my insurance company, State Farm.  i also own a 1987 
plymouth duster.  here's the trick:  have the vehicle listed under you and 
your parent.  then have them insure it as your 'recreational car' or 'fun 
car', whatever.  just don't have it listed as your primary transportation (of 
course you must own two cars to do this!).  i currently pay $32 a month for 
FULL coverage and some extras.  it will keep on going down if i stay accident 
free too, of course.

it's not your insurance company's job to tell you you can't buy your dream 
car.  if you can pay the premiums, they sure better let you insure 
it!........even though their biggest concern is what it will cost THEM to fix 
your car after a fender bender!  keep at it!  you'll get it eventually!

Andy



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 04:20:21 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Re: Drivers Education

I bought my delorean when I was 18.  My primary driver was a 1988 
Mazda 323.  My Delorean was considered my secondary pleasure car.  I 
got my insurance through State Farm.  I have full coverage with a 
$500 deduct for $246 every 6 months.  I am able to drive 6K a year.  
I also have a perfect driving record.  I didn't supply the insurance 
company with any indepth information.  I gave them the website to DMC 
Houston, PJ Grady and DMC Joe, that was it.  It's been two years, and 
my insurance hasn't gone up.  It is possible to get great insurance 
while being young.  

Erik Geerdink
4512

ps.
if anyone has a PERFECT condition black shift boot for sale, I am 
interested in buying/trading for it.

--- 



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 06:58:55 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Semi-Taking-Car-Out-Of-Storage

Jim, I just bled mine today. ( Monday) . After sitting for 2 months I 
replaced all the sensors in the water tube under the intake. While I 
had it down I also replaced the water pump, hoses, distributor 
impulse coil, New rubber o rings and air valve switch and vaccumm 
hoses in in the air valve switch. All of them were cracked. After I 
got it all together, I filled it up with the normal 1/2 mixture and 
cranked it up. Let it run till it gets to running temp and up to the 
first heat notch on the gauge, then with a #10 wrench and a small 
hose connected to the drain plug and going into a gallon jug I let 
all the air out of the line. Took about 10 minutes. Then recheck to 
make sure the water tank is to the proper height. Yes The Fan Fix  
came on at the proper time for my car. I'm set now for the summer. 
Maby a little mixture add to during the summer.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 07:31:42 -0000
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Gas problems

Mike, I had some simular gas leaks or spills. I tightened the rubber 
boot up where the pump sits and re-fitted the cover on it. I don't 
top off the tank up to the gas cap. Due to gravity, the return hose 
in the boot where the pump sit's may not be tightened down good and 
the pressure from the gas being all the way up to the cap and the 
tank pressure may leak into the pump area. I just learned to call it 
quits when I fill up when the handle turns off automatically. You may 
be over filling. 
If you would like to get the headlight switch fixed, I repair them. 
Send me the switch and $15.00 and I will fix it and prepay the 
postage back. I have done several and most of the time it just needs 
adjusting, cleaning and relubricating.
No brake light may be as simple as repairing the boards or you can 
buy new one's very reasonable. Bulbs,loose wires hot or ground is 
common.
As far as leaking antifreeze, could be a hose or loose clamp. 
Don't worry, all isn't lost. Just needs a little TLC.
Email if I can help
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.co,
Dallas,Texas

     --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Nope, I didn't eat beans :)
> 
> Today was my bi-weekly "take the d car out, wash it,
> and feel proud" day, weather was perfect,around 65,
> and sunny.
> 



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 08:09:53 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: (Duke and Dave T., thanks)...More Questions!

I've had the cover off the fuel side, luggage area, it had been off
before, wasn't sealed.  The other side is still sealed.  What can be
seen, what can be serviced, under that cover?  Back to the fuel side,
one of the cover screws has been "spun", any clever fixes for the
"nut,"  will JB weld do it?

The Craig radio display is working but in case I can't do a reasonable
repair on the trace cable, should it fail, (to be determined), I'd like
to make ready to mount a separate cassette player or CD player (or
changer) or even 8-track player and play it through the Craig amp or the
Craig speakers.  Anybody have a really clever solution?

Thanks, Les






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:24:08 EST
From: jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Fun-per-Dollar (FPD) Ratio

I like Darrell's "Fun-per-Dollar" ratio idea.  Since I consider it fun to 
show my cars and have people look at them, I'd suggest a way to calculate the 
"FPD" ratio for each D at the next Delorean show might be:  (Average number 
of spectators standing around a given car / Owner's total investment in the 
car)  Hmmm.  Interesting.

Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:31:39 -0500
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel_at_dml_minalco.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Lift it up question

I have little experience with jack stands.  But what we used when changing
my clutch was to use a set of old metal ramps.  These are the old style red
ramps with the wheel recess on top, not stamped out welded pieces of junk,
but are quite heavy.  All we did was drive up the back end (which cleared
with no trouble, the ramps give about a foot increase in height), and my
buddy removed the transmission alone and set it down beside him to do the
clutch work.  All in all with a few disruptions, he had it done in about 3-4
hours working alone.  I was amazed that he was able to get the transmission
out with no help and without having to raise the car more.

The car sat for a few days in between working on it and showed no sign of
any danger using the ramps.  And I did shake it a bit to confirm that it was
securely on the ramps.

Maybe my buddy is a bit braver (or more stupid) then others on the list, but
from what I have seen, I would do it again.


Jack & Virginia Stiefel



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 17:41:23 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: Lift it up question

A car can roll while propped onto Jackstands too. I use both ramps 
and Jackstands depending on what I am doing. As with jacking up ANY 
car and working under it, you should always use wheel chocks to block 
the tires and prevent the car from rolling. When my car is on the 
ramps, I have allot more clearence under it without worrying about 
hitting the jack stands and being cramped between the two stands. I 
have shaken, jumped, removed the transmission, ect..ect..ect..all 
while my car was on ramps and NOT once did it even budge. As with 
the "good quality" stands you suggested to buy, any "good quality" 
ramps will out perform them in safety. Granted you can't work on the 
wheels with ramps, but like I said, that's why I own both.

BTW, I have had my car propped up on ramps (rear tires) and stands 
(front) so I could have enough clearence under the D to move around 
and work under it with no problems at all. Saftey is always key when 
working with any automobile. I've also had my car in hover mode 
too.....but hovering 4 feet off the ground, on a sloped driveway when 
I removed my chassis ;-)

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jtrealty_at_dml_w... wrote:
> The ramps that I have seen are made from stamped sheet metal and 
spot 
> welded together. IMHO I wouldn't put a go-kart on them. They 
provide 
> no lateral stability, and for some cars there is not enough 
clearance 
> to the fenders so you might hit or move them before you even get up 
on 
> them. <SNIP>
If you work under your car and you want to be 
> safe go buy some GOOD jackstands and use them correctly. Properly 
> positioned with the car up nice and high you can even remove the 
> trans. Make sure the floor is smooth and LEVEL. Besides the usual 
> dangers of working on the fuel system, lifting and working 
underneath 
> the car is dangerous if not done carefully. When setting the car on 
> jackstands be aware that if placed under suspension components the 
> jackstands may tend to move so watch carefully as you let the 
weight 
> of the car onto them. After putting on the jackstands a good test 
is 
> to shake the car side to side and see how steady it really is. (Try 
> THAT with your ramps if you dare!) There is no chance it could roll 
> off of the jackstands unlike the ramps. I store my car in "hover" 
mode 
> for the winter on jackstands and I can inspect and clean it easily 
> when it's time to revive it.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 14:45:01 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fun-per-Dollar (FPD) Ratio

I was humored by the following:

In a message dated 3/6/01 1:07:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:

<< I like Darrell's "Fun-per-Dollar" ratio idea.  Since I consider it fun to 
 show my cars and have people look at them, I'd suggest a way to calculate 
the 
 "FPD" ratio for each D at the next Delorean show might be:  (Average number 
 of spectators standing around a given car / Owner's total investment in the 
 car)  Hmmm.  Interesting. >>

Well if you guys are gonna be im Memphis I'll give you the time to do what 
you want and will provide an award for it.

Sounds different (how are you gonna differentiate a norrmal DeLorean from say 
Curtis car or the time machine.
Well the ball is in your court.   Looks like we could have some fun with this 
one.

Ken
<A HREF="http://deloreancarshow.com">DeLoreancarshow.com</A>



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 14:43:57 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy_at_dml_dnrc.bell-labs.com>
Subject: Flights to Ireland.

Anyone going to Ireland from the USA book their flight yet?!

It looks like all the good deals end just before May. 

I'd be interested to know what people are paying for the flights.


To fly in to Belfast, I am getting prices starting at $800 for late May.
To fly in to Dublin, Prices start at $650 (then a 3 hour train ride...)


But, if I want to fly sometime THIS month, it is under $400 to go to Belfast.
But, what good would that do me  :)



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:16:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Consecutive VINs

I remember either reading on a web page, or in a message thread that
DeLoreans either did not have consecutive VINs, or that no (or very few
owners) had ever found a DeLorean that had a VIN either 1 number higher or
lower than theirs.

I thought of this because I just found a DeLorean on eBay whose VIN is
3453, and mine is 3452. Nice looking car too:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=565719175&r=0&t=0

-Christian




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 21:55:08 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Pullstraps

Hi,

This just occured to me since I was reading the Judging Handbook from DMC Houston
(I'll never compete in a concours, that's for sure now...):

Could the conversion from the "O-ring" Pullstraps to the ones going into a slot
in the trimpanels be something that was done at a QAC?
The VIN-breakdown is at 5992; that shoud be the last car with the "loose" straps.
Mine however has the slot-kind (broken on one side actually), but the Vin# is
05141; over 800 less! Not that I mind, but this just made me curious and I can't
remember reading anything on this subject in the past year or two...

Too bad too; the ones with a ring would be much easier to repair/replace; I have
to tak my door apart now... Luckily I have to do so anyway to adjust my
doorlock, fix the powerwindow AND repair the strap, so I can kill two bird with
one stone...

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 21:25:08 -0000
From: knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com
Subject: Re: Consecutive VINs

I'm not sure where the "no consecitive VIN" myth stems from, but there 
is no truth to the assertion that few consecutive VINs were produced. 
For some real information check out the VIN survey that DMCNews has 
already done on the DMC production chronology at 
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_chron.htm

The data collected thus far seems to indicate that few if any VINs 
were skipped during production (with exception of skips between model 
years as well as some skips incurred during some plant shutdowns, 
etc). The survey data also casts doubt on the commonly reported figure 
of 8583 vehicles produced (the stats estimate about 9200 cars 
manufactured). I wonder where this original figure came from -- does 
anyone have an original _DMC_ source for this commonly cited number? 
I'm not interested in non-original sources for the number like 
DeLorean World, or other publications that are merely re-reporting the 
figure -- I want to know where the figure _originated_ from.

                   Knut

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> I remember either reading on a web page, or in a message thread that
> DeLoreans either did not have consecutive VINs, or that no (or very 
few
> owners) had ever found a DeLorean that had a VIN either 1 number 
higher or
> lower than theirs.
> 



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 13:37:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fun-per-Dollar (FPD) Ratio

Good formula! :)

I would have to say Delorean's are the top car for
fun-per-dollar.

I don't like to gloat because I think that bragging is
wrong, especially to less fortuante people, but this
particular guy wasn't unfortunate in life at all, he
probably makes many times more than I do...

We were at a restaraunt, he had I'm assuming, a brand
new corvette (if not new, within a year old), and his
buddy had a Porsche, again, a year old or newer... 

They had a few too many to drink (atleast thats what I
am hoping, if they act this way in real life, they
have problems), and they see me and my son getting out
of the Delorean.  One of them yells over, "if you were
going to spend that kind of money on a sports car, you
should have gotten a real one!" and started
laughing...this was the guy in the corvette.

Ofcourse, being loud, he drew the attention of the
line standing outside of the Outback Steakhouse... it
wasn't one minute and I had approxmiately 15
spectators over my car... nobody even glanced at him
or his friend's "everyday sportsters".

I think it says quite a bit for a car when something
from 1981 can compete with any car on the market, and
out dazzle today's, and yesterdays, best of the best.

I think the only car in existance today that would
attract the attention of a Delorean is a
Lamborghini...

Anyhow, the next time you get an arrogant type of
person who thinks a car makes the person who drives
it, pull out your Delorean, and watch as they sink
into disbelief that your old "metal boat" (as he
called it), turns the head of every person within eye
distance, and even attracts a few driving by to go by
again for a second look.

I will never own another sports car after this
Delorean... and I'm in the market for another one
within the next few months... because in my opinion,
the FFD ratio of a Delorean can't be touched by
anything.

Mike

--- jus4sho_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> I like Darrell's "Fun-per-Dollar" ratio idea.  Since
> I consider it fun to 
> show my cars and have people look at them, I'd
> suggest a way to calculate the 
> "FPD" ratio for each D at the next Delorean show
> might be:  (Average number 
> of spectators standing around a given car / Owner's
> total investment in the 
> car)  Hmmm.  Interesting.



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 21:43:15 -0000
From: "Darren Cunningham" <darren.cunningham_at_dml_virgin.net>
Subject: RE: Consecutive VINs

Most of the right hand drive cars have consecutive vin's. I know where
12174,12175,12176 are along with my own 12180 (all RHD's). I'm certain that
I know where the vin's in the middle are as well but i'm not 100% sure.

Also, 12175 and my car have consecutive Northern Ireland Number Plates from
the factory - SIJ 1082 and SIJ 1083. I also know where SIJ 1079 is as well
but not what it's vin is.


Darren


-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean_at_dml_framezero.com]
Sent: 06 March 2001 2016
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Consecutive VINs


I remember either reading on a web page, or in a message thread that
DeLoreans either did not have consecutive VINs, or that no (or very few
owners) had ever found a DeLorean that had a VIN either 1 number higher or
lower than theirs.



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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 13:48:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Drivers Education

Wow!

I am assuming you do not have it insured as a classic
though?

I'm 27, perfect driving record, and I am paying
approx. 300/mo through Progressive, however, the car
is insured for 50K... and its listed as a
"non-replacable car", basically meaning if someone
hits my fender, they total it immediately, with no
repairs...

I figured that was the way to go because if someone
hits it, it will never be the same, and for 50K I can
get a refubished one from the Houston folks, although
it would never replace my original baby.

Mike
855


--- delorean502_at_dml_excite.com wrote:
> I bought my delorean when I was 18.  My primary
> driver was a 1988 
> Mazda 323.  My Delorean was considered my secondary
> pleasure car.  I 
> got my insurance through State Farm.  I have full
> coverage with a 
> $500 deduct for $246 every 6 months.  I am able to
> drive 6K a year.  



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 22:03:34 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Re: (Duke and Dave T., thanks)...More Questions!

Here's a quick run thru on what's behind all those access panels.

1. Under spare tire.
Fuel Pump
Fuel sending unit
Lower fill, and overflow hoses
Windshield drain

2. Left side panel w/plug.
Brake master cylinder
Brake servo
Clutch master cylinder
Lower Steering column and linkage
Bulkhead bushing
Front Harness grounding point

3. Below/side gas cap.
Clutch fluid reserviour
Upper fill and overflow hoses
Fuel filler neck
Fuel ground point
Roll over valve
Front vapor hose (emissions control system)

Home Depot carries this one type of screw driver. It's in the "tool 
corral" section of the store, and you may have to look a little for 
it. It's made by husky, and it's a phillips head. But the thing is 
almost 2' long! It will grip a bit better, and give you more torque 
when removing any rusted screws (trunk, tail light, or otherwise). 
Helps to keep screws from being stripped.

If a riv-nut does come loose, Bondo makes a product called Marine 
epoxy. It comes in a stick form. You tear off as much as you need, and 
then knead to mix. Stuff works great for stopping the nuts from 
spinning.

For your radio, I've seen an aftermarket CD changer unit which splices 
into the radio antenna. Rather then a direct input, it's more like a 
"braodcast" signal. So to hear CD's, you tune the radio to a specific 
frequency. Perhaps one of these unit's could also have a splitter 
attached to switch between all external units you decide to add.

-Robert
vin 6585

p.s. If you ever remove the access panel below the gas cap, be sure 
and stuff a shop rag or two in under the resivour. That way any 
spilled clutch fluid will be absorbed by the rag, and won't drip onto 
the frame!



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I've had the cover off the fuel side, luggage area, it had been off
> before, wasn't sealed.  The other side is still sealed.  What can be
> seen, what can be serviced, under that cover?  Back to the fuel 
side,
> one of the cover screws has been "spun", any clever fixes for the
> "nut,"  will JB weld do it?
> 
> The Craig radio display 



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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 12:09:52 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Lift it up question

THIS SOUNDS DANGEROUS TO ME!!! I don't recomment lifting any car while 
driving it onto ramps!

Use common sense here guys... just jack the car up high enough using a 
floorjack (of course don't forget your 1x3 strip of wood between the frame 
and your jack), until you can slide the wheelramps under the tires of the 
car. Then lower it down safely! I do it all the time...

---Dan




Message: 17
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 17:00:53 -0500
From: "Jesse D. Sightler" <jsight_at_dml_pair.com>
Subject: Re: Lift it up question

Hi Les,

I've used ramps before with the Delorean in the past without any great
difficulty.  The rear of the car has more than adequate clearance to
prevent any hitting of the exhaust tips on a Delorean (even if it is
slightly lowered).

I would recommend that you be a bit careful with putting it on the
ramps, as they are usually very close to impacting the front end air
scoop just as you drive the car up onto it.  You can either use boards
to avoid this, or just have someone carefully apply a slight amount of
lift to the wheel arch as you drive it up onto the ramp as its very
close to being able to make it on its own.

------
Jess

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 17:24:08 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Insuring a Delorean?

I am in the process of securing my financing with JJ Best for my DeLorean
and I am looking into insurance.  I called my normal provider, who gives me
pretty good rates, and I almost had a heart attack!

Full coverage for the car at the agreed sale price was $1,485 per year!

I then called a place named Grundy Worldwide in Horsham PA.  (I was referred
to them via JJ Best)  They specialize in insuring classic and collector
cars.

No limitation on mileage
Full coverage
listed as a recreational vehicle
$100,000 liability

They quoted me a price of $246 per year!

I know that they might have been cheaper, but THAT MUCH!?

Has anyone else ever heard of or dealt with this place?  Is this a good
deal?  Any snags I should look for?





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 21:24:32 -0000
From: srubano_at_dml_optonline.com
Subject: Re: (Duke and Dave T., thanks)...More Questions!

8-Track player????? What the hell is that?? LOL only kidding. If you 
want to play a seperate tape player or CD changer throught the 
original radio, it can be done very easily. They make "RF" unit type 
CD changers. The CD changer comes with an RF module that plugs 
inbetween the cars ANT and the radio's ANT wire. You would then tune 
to an "empty" station and the CD would play it through the radio by 
injecting the singal via the ANT and the "empty" station. They also 
sell (at least I remeber Radio shack used too) add on tape decks. You 
wired them up with the radio (power, speakers) and it's only function 
was to play tapes. It could be mounted anywhere you wanted to put it.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> The Craig radio display is working but in case I can't do a 
reasonable
> repair on the trace cable, should it fail, (to be determined), I'd 
like
> to make ready to mount a separate cassette player or CD player (or
> changer) or even 8-track player and play it through the Craig amp 
or the



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